Tanunda 100 Year Shiraz - De la Gardine CDP for Barbecue Rib Dinner

Tanunda 100 Year Shiraz - De La Gardine CDP for Barbecue Rib Dinner

For barbecue rib dinner we pulled a California Syrah and a vintage Chateauneuf du Pape and friend Bill brought a classic Tanunda 100 year old vines Shiraz. Son Sean prepared a starter of classic Coquilles St-Jacques (Gratinéed Scallops). Coquilles St-Jacques simply means "scallops" in French.

For the scallops starter, Bill brought a Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett.

Dr. H. Thanisch Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett 1999

What a surprise in the vibrant bright fruit of this fifteen year old Riesling. The flavor profile was predominate sweet green apple turning to a layer of pear with bright nicely balanced acidity. It drank more like a spatlese with its full body and just the right amount of pleasurable sweetness.

RM 89 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1755394

http://www.thanisch.com/



Chateau Tanunda 100 Year Vines Shiraz 2008

Bill was generous to bring a bottle of this select wine from his cellar. We discovered this wine at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour in Chicago when it was being poured by Chateau Tanunda's Dagmar O'Neill. Only 100 cases were produced. We orchestrated a purchase of eight three packs in OWC's which we split amongst the wine team, pictured in this blogspot feature.

Bill's notes - "Still the best Shiraz I have tasted and there is a great deal of separation from number 2. Layered and complex with spice, granite, minerals on the palate with a touch of softness not usually expected in a Shiraz. Drinking beautifully now but will last for years."

WCC 96 points.

This is a huge thick chewy Shiraz. I can only think of a few that have been this dense and each of them are memorable tastings. It begs for a thick juicy steak or tangy barbecue. Full bodied, complex, concentrated, full lingering tannins predominate the dense, black and blue berry fruits with hints of liquorice, plum and spice and spicy oak.

RM 93 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=937673

http://www.chateautanunda.com/

Château de la Gardine Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1998

Working through aged bottles in my cellar, I pulled this sixteen year old CDP with it flattened side almost squarish shaped bottle to accompany the ribs. This is the last and final bottle of a case I purchased upon release following my trip to CDP and the Rhone River Valley back in 1999. This property is one of the biggest private owned estates in Chateauneuf du Pape.

It took an hour for this to open and reveal its fruits. Of course tasting it alongside the big Tanunda Old Vines exacerbated the difference. This was more old world style with greater complexity and breadth reflecting the blend.

This was medium bodied and dark garnet colored - complex slightly tart black and red fruits, hints of earthy, leather, pepper, with berry, mineral, spice nose; it was very tasty, balanced, slightly tart berry, blackberry, black cherry with mineral  palate, hints of earthy tobacco and cassis and a medium-plus finish. The blend is old world Southern Rhone CDP style with 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 15% Syrah and 5% Muscardin.

RM 88 points. Consistent notes w/ earlier tastings.

It got 92 points from Wine Spectator who cited its "Beautiful. Black color, thick texture, with delicious ripe fruit and silky, sweet tannins." Robert Parker gave it 90 Points and enphasized its "dense, saturated purple color, .... enticing, sweet nose of black fruits, licorice, and violets." He pegged the drinking window between 2003-2016.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=52699

http://www.gardine.com/en/home

Duo of 1995 Bordeaux Blends Château Pape Clément and Elan

Duo of 1995 Bordeaux Blends Château Pape Clément and Elan

For my birthday celebration birthday dinner Ryan and I pulled two special '95's - a Bordeaux and a Bordeaux inspired Napa blend for an interesting comparison tasting with the grilled steak dinner - Château Pape Clément and Elan Atlas Peak Cabernet. We only dented each bottle which were both held over to a follow on barbecue rib dinner.

Château Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan Bordeaux 1995

Pessac-Léognan is one of the top appellations within Graves, and home to its only first growth designated producer from the 1855 Médoc classification – Chateau Haut-Brion. Historic Haut Brion dates back to when then Secretary of State Thomas Jefferson visited the chateau in 1787 and bought 125 bottles for his cellar in Virginia.

We know Pessac-Léognan best for Domaine de Chevalier which we also collect. We have enjoyed meeting owner producer and President of the UGC (Union des Grand Crus Bordeaux) Olivier Bernard on several occasions here in Chicago including the recent UGC tour 2014 and UGC Chicago 2103 and his gala wine dinner Everest with joint venture partner Darius Khaledi of Darioush.

Château Pape-Clément underwent upgrading and modernization during teh 1980's and can now be considered the quality equivalent to a Médoc second growth. Characterized by it classic terroir rich earthy Graves bouquet of black fruits, minerals, and "cigar box" tobacco. Château Pape-Clément is drinkable at an earlier age than many red Bordeaux with its relatively high proportion of 30% Merlot, it is usually ready to drink by five years after the vintage. Top vintages should improves for over twenty years.

Château Pape Clément is named for historic illustrious owner, a man of the cloth born in 1264, Bertrand de Goth became Bishop of Comminges, in the Pyrenees Mountains, at the age of 31; he later became Archbishop of Bordeaux in 1299.

He was gifted the property in Pessac, the Vineyard de La Mothe. With his passion for wine, he personally took part equipping, organizing and managing the domain according to modern practices of the era.

In June 1305 he was appointed to succeed Pope Benedict XI, who had passed away prematurely after only eleven months of reign. Bertrand de Goth took the name of Clement V. Supported by Philip IV, he moved the papal court to Avignon in 1309, thus giving the area the name Chateauneuf du Pape. The weight of his responsibilities led him to relinquish the property, giving it to the Archbishop of Bordeaux. Henceforward, the vineyard was to be known under the name of this enlightened pope. 

The connection to Chateauneuf du Pape and the papacy are shown in the Pape Clement bottle and label crossed-keys that adorn Chateauneuf-du-pape (CDP) bottles and labels, and the papal crown on the Pape Clement label (left).

The grateful Church perpetuated Pope Clement's work as each archbishop applied his approach of modernity and technical progress such that the wine estate was a model vineyard. Known for especially early harvests, which remain one of its special characteristics, Château Pape Clément was the first vineyard in France to align vine stock to facilitate labour.

After the revolution at the end of the 18th century, the Archbishop of Bordeaux was dispossessed of the property and the papal vineyard became part of the public domain.

In June 1937,  a violent hailstorm virtually destroyed the entire estate. It was taken over in 1939 by Paul Montagne who bought it and gradually brought it back to its former rank. His descendents, Léo Montagne and Bernard Magrez, continue the tradition to this day.

This was medium bodied, deep ruby/purple colored with a full aromatic floral scent. Classic Bordeaux earthiness accents the complex, elegant black currants and black berry fruits with herb-tinged graphite and smoke on a layer of sweet vanilla on a long leathery tobacco finish. It seems to still be in its prime drinking window not yet showing any diminution of age. We saved half the bottle for a follow on rib dinner when the floral tones gave way to a funky barnyard tone that is cited in reviews of several others.

Upon opening 91 points, after two days, 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2400

Elan Vineyards Napa Valley Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 1995

Linda and Rick with Patrick and Linda Elliott Smith of Elan
with Phil and AJ

We discovered this label from French inspired producer Patrick and wife Linda Elliott-Smith from the Wine Spectator feature of the 'Undiscoverd Dozen' after their 1995 opening and release of their inaugural 1992 vintage. We tasted this wine during a winery visit during our 1998 Napa Wine Experience (shown left). We still hold a bottle of the '92 in our vertical collection of Elan.

Wine Spectator acclaimed Elan Vineyards as one of the " New names in Cabernet to try before they are too hot!" which helped launch Elan and put them on the map! That article also showcased Robert Craig, Del Dotto, Clark Claudon and several other producers which we started following and continue to collect to this day.

Elan Vineyards' owner and winemaker, Patrick Elliott-Smith, was born in the US to a French mother and an American father. He acquired his appreciate for fine wines at a young age from his grandfather Rene´ who had an extensive wine cellar, with many pre World War II Bordeaux wines.

In 1979, Patrick found his dream parcel high up Atlas Peak Road at approximately 2,100 feet elevation. Patrick perfected his viticulture craft working developing vineyards for wineries such as Hess Collection, Liparita, Dominus, and Beaulieu Vineyards. He planted Cabernet Sauvignon on a French-style trellis, uncommon in California at the time. For the first seven years Patrick sold the fruit to Caymus Vineyards.

Over the years, Patrick planted additional acreage and currently farms eleven acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, one acre of Merlot, and half an acre of Petit Verdot and Malbec. Patrick believes that great wines are made in the vineyards.

When he made a small amount of wine in 1991 for family and friends, met rave reviews that he decided to launch the Elan Vineyards label.

There was tremendous irony in the artwork on the Elan label (shown left). We were visiting Patrick and Linda at their Napa crush facility of the time with dear friends Andy (AJ) and Liat whose Vinehill estate and wine cellar have been featured in my wine writings.

As I recall, Liat recognized the artwork on the label from artglass that hung in their home. When inquiring how it ended up on the Elan label, they found the photograph of the artwork was taken at the source, in the artist studio in Brazil. Indeed Liat had acquired the art piece from that studio a couple years earlier.

I worked with Patrick and Linda to set up their first website back in those early days of the internet and received some wine for the effort. I recall purchasing a couple cases over the ensuing years at the Wine Stop in Burlingame near SFO and the price tags on the bottles show I paid $38 at the time.

Unlike my tasting experience last year when this was showing its age with diminution of fruits, this wine showed it is aging gracefully and is drinking very well as it approaches twenty years of age. Dark purple colored, medium to full bodied, it shows full forward complex concentrated black berry and black cherry fruits with tones of spice, a layer of cedar and hints sweet caramel on a silky smooth tannin finish.


RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=72763

http://www.elanvineyards.com/

Ironside Cellars California Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Ironside Cellars California Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

I discovered this wine when shopping Binny's, the mega-wine merchant with thirty stores around Chicago-land. The expensive packaging and presentation with the OWC (original wood case) and heavy thick glass bottles belayed the price-point at $15.

We also had fun with the 'I' foil capsule since three of our kids went to U of I and two of them went to IU!

The back label testimony boasted this was a 'cab drinker's kind of wine .... full bodied but focused, like a firm handshake that leads into a big hug,"

It cites a 'blend from some of California's best vineyards made by some seriously talented winemakers'. Well, its what I live for to discover serious wines at killer QPR (quality price ratio) price-points. The quest continues as this is not one.   

The first indication of caveat emptor was the lack of terrior .... 'sense of place'. Notably, wine labeled as Napa Valley must contain 75% of its contents being from Napa Valley. Labeled  'California' Cabernet Sauvignon carries the same covenant, the proportion of contents being from the state, with its vast diversity of climates and terrains and soil types .... all those elements of a place.

This 2012 vintage of Ironside Cabernet Sauvignon is made from fruit grown in vineyards in the Napa Valley, Sonoma, Mendocino, and Paso Robles. This is quite a diversity of locales with varied conditions for growing varietal grapes.

Upon opening the bottle, I immediately noticed the cork was labeled '90+ Cellars', the negociant whom I've written about several times in these pages. This seemed strangely backwards - normally, the Negociant buys surplus juice or wine from producers and 'private labels' it under their general negociant brand. Here was an apparent producer branding a wine label sourced from numerous sources and then 'cellared and bottled by (a negociant) 90+ Cellars', as stated on their website.

Such is the topsy turvey oftimes convoluted state of the wine industry.

The final indication of a wine to watch (out) for was the blend. The final blend consists of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon plus 4% each of Malbec, Petit Verdot & Petite Sirah rounded out with 3% Merlot.   

While the label (emphasis theirs) says "each of these grapes adds layers of aroma and texture to the Cabernet. Malbec adds richness, the Petit Verdot lends spice, Petite Syrah supplies power, and the Merlot a layer of earthiness."

Old world wine producers have been blending wines for more than two hundred years and have learned the optimal blends such as the Bordeaux combination of Cabernet, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. New world experimentation with other combinations is an adventure, as is this combination of grapes from such diverse and varied regions with their disparate terrior (s).  

This is a $15 cab that is selling at an appropriate price point with reasonable value. For those of us with more discerning or discriminating pallets, its probably not a wine to buy except as a 'pizza wine' ... every day drinking with pizza but not wine oriented foods. 

The producer's tasting notes cite "hearty aromas of black cherries, plums and tobacco leaf with traces of fresh pepper and sweet spice". I found the wine a bit disjointed and awkward, a bit 'hot' with a sense of metallic graphite and lacking polish and finesse. 

RM 84 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1847655

http://www.ironsidecellars.com/ 

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/

Wine BTG with small plates at Hemingway's Oak Park

Wine BTG with small plates at Hemingway's Oak Park

For a short simple wine tasting outing before our Wright-Plus Preview Night, we stopped at our favored Hemingway's Bistro in Oak Park for a wine By-The-Glass (BTG) tasting with small plates dinner.

I chose the Chicken Liver Pate plate with toast points, mustard and cornichons and a glass of Domaine Saint-Martin Marsannay Les Grands Vignes Burgundy Pinot Noir 2009.

Imported by Wine Warehouse, Los Angeles, CA, a Patrick Le Sec Selection. The proprietor is Martin Bart, whose father started the domaine in 1955. · Dark reddish-purple color, medium-light bodied, dark plum, dark chocolate and oak char on the nose. Thick black and blue fruits tasting of mu shu plum sauce, citrus, mineral and marzipan. Big and intense, with some tannin to shed. Plenty of wine for $20. Score: 87.

A darker Pinot Noir with distinct plum, nut and oak flavors blended into the silky texture. It is a fruity Marsannay with the right amount of earthiness.

Linda chose the steamed mussels in white wine sauce with a glass of Domaine Georges Verney
De Mirbaudie Syrah 2011.

 

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied....  black raspberry, peppery spices and minerals on the nose; smells a lot like a pinot.  Juicy, spicy and fruity, offering vibrant red fruit flavors and a touch of candied violet.  This precise, minerally syrah, which was raised entirely in stainless steel, shows good energy and cut on the tannin-free finish.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1550986

Marquis Philips S2 South Australian McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

Marquis Philips 'S2' South Australian McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

This wine has improved since last tasted three years ago and three years before that. I noticed this as it evolved over the evening revealing smooth polished and complex fruits surpassing my recollections from earlier tastings. This sentiment is reflected in a few others' tasting notes on Cellartracker as well.

At twelve years of age there was absolutely no sign of diminution, rather it seems to be just entering its prime drinking window which should hold for several years. Regrettably, according to my cellar records, I think this is my last bottle of this vintage.

From the partnership of Australian winemaker Chris Ringland and US Importer Dan Philips - hence the creative Austral-American 'Roogle', part kangaroo-part eagle character logo.

The 2002 exhibited medium - full bodied - dark garnet color - full forward black and blue berry fruit flavors, a layer of anise and hint of mocha, cedar and black cherry on a full lingering flavorful finish of smooth polished tannins. There was no sense of being a bit hot with alcohol on opening before giving way to the full forward fruit, as indicated in earlier tasting notes.

This was a perfect complement to a grilled steak dinner.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=39087

Intersecting Lafon-Rochet Quintessa Wine Flight for Grilled Surf & Turf Dinner

Intersecting Lafon-Rochet Quintessa Wine Flight for Grilled Surf & Turf  Dinner

What a treat to be invited to Bill and Beth's to watch the Derby with native Kentuckian Beth, and to kick off the summer outdoor grilling barbecue season. Bill and Beth hosted dinner with grilled sirloin steaks and Linda took a pair of lobster tails for a surf and turf combination.

As is our custom, I called Bill for guidance on his strategy for the wine selection. He had pulled from the cellar a Château Lafon-Rochet 1995 and a Quintessa Napa Valley 2003. Sorting through my cellar database I selected a bottle to intersect Bill's two bottles. I pulled from the cellar a Lafon-Rochet 2003 vintage to compare with the 1995 and to match the Quintessa vintage release.

To accompany the lobster, I took at Brewer Clifton Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay 2007. When we arrived, lo and behold, Bill was serving a 2007 vintage California Chardonnay - Mayacamas Mt Veeder Chardonnay. We tasted and acquired this wine together at the winery during our Napa Valley Mt Veeder experience in 2011. This chardonnay was a highlight of our discoveries that week and we both agree we wish we had acquired more. From a mixed case we split, we hold two bottles of this while Bill has one left. The two California Chardonnays presented a interesting contrast in styles perhaps reflecting their disparate terroir.

The chardonnay's were enjoyed with a cheese plate and mixed nuts before the lobster medallions with drawn butter.

All the red Bordeaux blends were perfect complement to the sirloin steak along with green beans with bacon and shallots, baked potatoes and a dinner salad.  

After dinner Beth served delicious Derby chocolate and pecan pie with ice cream and coffee.

Mayacamas Mt Veeder Chardonnay 2007

The Mayacamas was clean and crisp and displayed an interesting vanilla like sweet cashew nut tone, the producer calls it almond, and fig... both the producer and K&L refer to melon or cantaloupe, with a tone of stoniness and subtle French oak.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=863799

http://www.mayacamas.com/

Brewer-Clifton Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay 2007 

This is the first wine from Brewer-Clifton that isn't vineyard-designated. It combines fruit from four premium vineyard sites situated along Highway 246, in the heart of this extremely cool appellation.

It was crisp, restrained with lively acidity, showing lemon and lime citrus tones with a layer of flint, hints of melon and peach.

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=540244

Château Lafon-Rochet St Estephe Bordeaux 1995 and 2003

The lineage of these two vintage releases was more apparent over the course of the evening as the two bottle settled and opened to reveal their native character. They both displayed dark purple/ruby color although the '95 was starting to show its age with a brickish hue starting to form.

As shown in the picture at the left, notice the Lafon-Rochet label design and capsule changed between the '95 and the '03. 

Both were medium-full bodied with slightly opacity and showing the same distinctive tasting soft smooth profile. The '03 opened with more vibrant and expressive fruit and floral tones but the two wines converged to be more similar over the evening.

Both showed full forward blackberry fruit with tones of cassis, earth and hints of tobacco, low acidity and a somewhat subdued finish.

Parker said the drinking window for the '95 is 2003-2018 and I think that is trending true as this was starting to show its age probably indicating the end of its prime drinking window. Drink up over the coming three to five years before it begins to diminish.

2003 - RM 89; 1995 RM 88

1995 - https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1573
2003 - https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19294

Quintessa Napa Valley Red Wine 2003

This eleven year old showed similar aging to '03 Lafon-Rochet with its tones of tobacco and leather lurking behind the vibrant and expressive fruit. It showed an interesting similarity in color and body as the Bordeaux however was more complex and rounded with a wider range of fruit flavors.

As is typically the case, the California Cabernet was bolder and brighter and more forward than the Bordeaux, however in this case, the Quintessa is a Bordeaux style blend. Indeed, it showed and presented itself very much like a Bordeaux in style and character.

We visited the spectacular Quintessa winery in Napa during our Napa Wine Experience 2003.

Medium-full bodied, dark purple ruby colored, complex but nicely balanced full forward vibrant ripe blackberry fruit predominates with tones of mocha and cassis, hints of tobacco, tea and oak with silky smooth well integrated tannins.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=152486

http://quintessa.com/

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 53 Gran Reserva Mendoza Cabernet

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 53 Gran Reserva Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

I've written a couple times about this Negotiant - Broker and some of the extraordinary values that occasionally appear. Recently we've featured finds such as Lot 101 Columbia Valley Syrah and Lot 500 Cabernet from another like vendor (Cameron Hughs). This wine is not of that caliber or discovery, but it is notable none-the-less. One anomaly that belies their model of maintaining secrecy to 'protect' the source, this particular bottling reveals the producer source on the cork when extracted from the bottle. How does that happen? They likely purchased bottled product that had not yet been labeled. This is a common practice of producers to bottle the wine but not affix the labels till later. This makes sense when small lot producers lack the high volume automated lines that would combine these steps in one operation. Another reason for doing this is that if the bottles are going to be stored for some period of time, it prevents the labels from being worn, torn, soiled or otherwise diminished in handling, until which time they're ready to go to market.

Again, the reason this is an anomaly is that the producer is usually anonymous since they're selling their wine through this 'alternate' channel, often at a reduced price. Hence they don't want to diminish the value associated with their brand. According to the Ninety Plus Cellars, 8000 cases were produced of this wine and the producer's release price was $18 and they sell it for $12. We know this producer's label of this wine to be available at various merchants in the range of $20 to $24.

In this case, the cork reveals the producer to be Bodega Navarro Correas. This label is widely available in distribution and is can be found for the same price point as offered by Ninety-Plus cellars. This is likely the result of the producer thinning inventories of excess product, or simply seeking a parallel channel of distribution for their product. Never-the-less, this was an interesting wine that provided pleasurable drinking and good value QPR (Quality Price Ratio). It calls for seeking this out in the regular producer label for comparison as it should be readily available, with 8000 cases being produced.

About the producer

The Navarro Correas family is an historic and prestigious name with a long history of producing quality wines. The Correas family history dates back to 1798, when Sir Juan de Dios Correas planted the first vine seeds in the lands of Mendoza at the foot of the Andes ridge. Sir Juan De Dios also played an active role in the public life of Mendoza, where he served as Municipal Councillor in the year 1814 and as governor in 1824. For more than a century starting in the mid 1800's, the family sold grapes and wines to other producers. Finally, in 1974 Sir Edmundo Navarro Correas, a direct descendant of Juan de Dios Correas, started to release wines under the family name.

Navarro Correas grows grapes in selected micro-climates in Mendoza, located at 2400 feet elevation. They grow various wine varietal grapes in areas such as Tunuyan, Tupungato, Maipu, Ugarteche, Pedriel and Agrelo.  They are are irrigated with the melted snows from the Andes slopes. Their Cabernet Sauvignon comes primarily from the regions of Tunuyan and Tupungato in the Uco Valley.

According to the merchant site, they say, "An aromatic melody of black currant, cherry and cassis rises above a harmonious backdrop of tobacco, mocha and toasty oak.  On the palate, juicy, dark berry fruit cascades across your tongue followed by a trickle of sweet spice and savory plums."

My comments - Deep dark purple color, medium-full bodied with huge floral and fruit aromas and flavors of black berry and blue berry fruits, a layer of sweet caramel, mocha chocolate and tones of oak, tobacco and spice. It opened with a hot layer of alcohol but this burned off over an hour but left a big strong layer of tangy tannin and acid that lingers on the pallet.

This was a perfect complement to a grilled steak with savory mashed potatoes and gravy.

RM 88

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/