Ducru Beaucaillou Vertical Showcases Pour Boys Wine Dinner

Ducru Beaucaillou Vertical Showcases Pour Boys Wine Dinner

Following our trip to St Julien - Bordeaux recently where one of the highlights of our trip was a visit and tour of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, and another, our visit to Château Branaire Ducru, we were eager to explore a vertical tasting of the Second Growth grand vin.

During our recent Pour Boys Sassicaia owner dinner, I suggested we focus our upcoming dinner on Bordeaux - St Julien and offered a range of producers I could support. Over the ensuing weeks we selected Ducru-Beaucaillou as our featured producer for this evening's dinner. As noted by the boys at dinner, not many small groups could muster a vertical tasting of such a great wine spanning three decades.

Our dinner was hosted by Lyle and Terry and it was our first time there to see their new wine cellar. Lyle and Terry's pied-a-terre is in the city in Chicago's trendy West Loop neighborhood. The area has exploded in recent years with the new McDonald's world headquarters and the nearby Fulton Market district and its emergence as a high tech mecca anchored by Google and many others. The meteoric rise in popularity and property values in the area not only justifies Lyle's investment in his custom designed and built cellar, but suits the upscale feature requirements of upscale neighborhood residences.

Lyle and Terry prepared a spectacular dinner of beef tenderloin with roasted potatoes, asparagus, butternut squash, all capped off by Terry's decadent orange cake and cheese cake desserts with chocolate ganache, fresh berries and cherry jubilee.

 

Before dinner, they served grilled breaded scallops, salmon and an assortment of artisan cheeses, cheese dips and olives. The opening dinner course included a dinner salad and cream of mushroom soup.

John kicked off the appetizers and early courses with a garagiste Champagne.

Tarlant NV Champagne

The white wine flight consisted of a selection of premium and ultra-premium chardonnays from Burgundy, south central California Santa Rita Hills, and north California Sonoma County, and a Riesling.

The white flight:

Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Ruchottes 2012
Sea Smoke Streamside Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay 2012

Peter Michael Ma Belle-Fille Sonoma County Chardonnay 2006

Dönnhoff Tonschiefer Riesling Dry Slate 2018 

To pivot or transition from the whites to the Bordeaux red flight Steve brought this Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Burgundy.

Domaine François Gerbet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots 2010

The red Bordeaux flight:

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 1989

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 1998

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2000

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2009

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou 2014

Le Croix de Beaucaillou 2008 

Château Branaire-Ducru 2016

and 

Cos d'Estournel St Estephe 1996

After dinner, the dessert was accompanied by two dessert wines:

Chateau Coutet Premier Cru Classe Barsac 2013

Niepoort Vintage Port 1977

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1879011

http://chateau-ducru-beaucaillou.com/ 

https://twitter.com/DucruB
@DucruB

Gourmet dinner and elegant wine flight

Gourmet dinner and elegant wine flight

Fellow Pour Boy, wine buddy, Dr Dan and Linda hosted us for a artfully prepared gourmet dinner with an elegant flight of wine pairings. They prepared pork chops in a brown mushroom sauce, haricot verts, an imaginative BLT - bacon and lettuce stuffed tomatos and extraordinary stuffed giant portabella mushrooms (shown below) and rosemary potatoes.

Before dinner we had a selection of artisan cheeses, stuffed peppers, and a baked shrimp casserole.

Pork-chops in mushroom sauce

After dinner, for desert featured baked apple strudel with vanilla bean ice cream. For the desert course Dan served Rosalack Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Auslese and I brought a Sonoma-Cutrer Winemaker's Release Late Harvest Chardonnay.

The wine flight:

Château François Gaunoux Pommard 1er Cru Les Grands Épenots 2011

  

 Château Clinet Pomerol 2005

Château Larcis Ducasse St Emilion Grand Cru Bordeaux 2004

Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste Pauillac Bordeaux 2011

Rosalack Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Auslese 2009

Sonoma-Cutrer Winemaker's Release Late Harvest Chardonnay 2012

Tasting notes:

Château François Gaunoux Pommard 1er Cru Les Grands Épenots 2011

With the cheese course of artisan cheeses, olives and cheese stuffed green peppers, Dan opened this Burgundy Pinot Noir.

Garnet colored, light medium bodied, this was elegant and refined with fresh with dusty rose violets, earthiness, red currant and plum and fruits. It showed smooth silky fine-grained tannins with excellent length on the balanced, delicious and complex finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=177948

Château Clinet Pomerol 2005

We just tasted the spectacular 2016 vintage release of this wine earlier this week at the UGCB release tour tasting with owner Ronan Laborde at the Drake in Chicago.

This 2005 was amazing, arguably the best Clinet I've experienced and is certainly at it's apex; hard to imagine this improving further with more aging.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, silky smooth polished, nicely balanced, dark fruits accented by tantalizing elegant floral notes of lavender and violets with subtle notes of mocha, spice and tobacco on a lingering soft tannin finish.

RM 95 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=224074

Ronan LABORDE,Owner

Château Clinet

( Pomerol )

Sea Smoke Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir Southing 2009

Cellartracker Somm David T's tasting notes sums up this wine eloquently and thoroughly.

"The nose reveals, sweet, slightly sour and ripe; blackberries, some black raspberries, dark cherries, plum, blueberries cranberries, pomegranate, candied cherries and baked strawberries. Big vanillin, soft cinnamon stick, touch of clove, dark spice, herbaceous notes, mixed berry cola, dark, rich, moist soil, dry clay, dry stone, limestone minerals with dark red, blue fresh & withering flowers.

The body medium full. Tannins nicely resolved but, still have tarry teeth. The structure and tension nicely softened. The 09 is beautifully integrated. The length and balance have hit their high point. Ripe; blackberries, some black raspberries, dark cherries, plum, mix of some purple fruits, blueberries, cranberries, pomegranate, candied cherries and juicy strawberries. Red licorice/cola, good presence of vanillin, soft cinnamon stick, touch of clove, dark spice, black licorice, herbaceous notes; bay leaf, mint, eucalyptus, dark, rich, moist, soil, clay, river stones, limestone minerals and dark red, blue fresh & withering flowers with violets. The acidity is round and like a rain shower. The finish is extremely well balanced, seamless, elegant, rich, persistent for minutes with ripe fruit, medium dark spice that brings some mild heat and haunting fragrant violets for minutes".

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1025980


Château Larcis Ducasse St Emilion Grand Cru Bordeaux 2004

Like the Clinet above, we tasted the 2016 vintage release of this wine earlier this week at the UGCB release tour tasting with commercial director David Suire, so I pulled from the cellar this twelve year old vintage release to compare.

 This was dark garnet colored, with a slight brown/orange rim starting to set in, medium-full bodied, smooth polished with delightful complex aromas and flavors of plum, black currant and blackberry fruits with tones of earthy leather, black tea, cigar box and spice with hints of truffle, cedar and cassis on the smooth polished tannin finish.

RM 89 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=95970

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/02/larcis-ducasse-highlights-sunday-brunch.html

http://www.larcis-ducasse.com/ 

David Suire of Chateau Larcis Ducasse

Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste Pauillac Bordeaux 2011

Like the Clinet and the Larcis-Ducasse above, we also tasted the 2016 vintage release of this wine earlier this week at the UGCB release tour tasting. Again we had the privilege of tasting this with sales director David Launay, (shown right with Céline Villars-FOUBET, Owner, of Château Chasse-Spleen) so I asked Dan to pull this one too from the cellar this twelve year old vintage release to compare.

If you tend to procure wines based on vintage due to a particular anniversary or birthyear, or to fill out a vertical collection, 2011 was a challenging year in Napa and Bordeaux, this seems to be average from an average vintage, but decent value since the higher end labels were not markedly demonstrably better, this won't likely improve further with aging. 

This is a blend of 75 % cabernet sauvignon, 20 % merlot and 5 % cabernet franc.

This is one of our stalwart favorite go-to wines for Bordeaux, being more reasonably priced than the 'super second' more premium labels such as Pichon Lalande and Pichon Longueville, and Lynch Bages. This is one of my favorites of this tier of labels. It was fun to see David Launay move from St Julien favorite Gruaud Larose to this label a couple years ago, and seeing him in Chicago at the UGCB each year.

Garnet colored, medium bodied, good length, some leanness, classic Bordeaux style with flavours of dark berry fruits accented by notes of . cedar, leather and a touch anise and hint of mocha, nice balance of acidity with smooth polished tannins.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1356149
 
https://www.chateau-grand-puy-lacoste.com/en/#/en/


Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Rosalack Auslese 2015

Dan served this German Auslese with the desert course.

Schloss Johannisberg, from the German Rheingau wine region, is one of the most historic wine producers in Germany. They were the first German wine estate entirely planted with riesling, in 1720. Schloss Johannisberg tends to produce powerful and spicy wines relative to other Rheingau wines. Their wines exhibit minerality and elegance which are qualities of good quality Riesling. Schloss Johannisberg use large oak barrels for their wines, which contribute to the spiciness.

Schloss Johannisberg have 35 hectares (70 acres) of vineyards, just on the fiftieth parallel. Rosalack comes from the portion directly below the castle Schloss Johannisberg. They are one of a few historical German estates that have their own official vineyard designation, without village name. The vineyard designation is therefore simply Schloss Johannisberger.

This is a quality Auslese with nice acidity and good minerality with hints of botrytis, it is fresh and crisp rather than heavy as found in many sweet wines.

Straw colored, medium bodied, medium sweetness with high acidity, this is complex with fresh scents of peach, subtle notes of dried apricot, orange, botrytis and honey, finishing with citrus, green apple, honey and mineral.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2377449


Sonoma-Cutrer Winemaker's Release Late Harvest Chardonnay 2012

We toured the Russian River Valley in remote Sonoma County with Dan and Linda during our Sonoma Napa Wine Experience 2017 last year. 

Wine and Spirits writes of this release, "This takes the ripening potential of the Russian River Valley and runs with it, melding the coolness of the region’s fog with the sunny, floral notes of honeycomb. Its plump nectarine flavors gain complexity from touches of botrytis, which took off in the vineyard after several storms in late October and early November. Winemaker Mick Schroeter can’t recall another vintage with such a complete infection of botrytis. The result is a richly textured dessert wine, balanced to drink on its own." They rated this 91 points in 12/2013.

Light honey colored, full bodied, extracted apricot fruit flavor with  hints of lemon citrus accented by notes of honey, crème brûlée and vanilla bean on a smooth lingering finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1737186

 

Sea Smoke, Ducru, Quilceda Creek, Peter Michael Belle Côte Premier Dinner Flight

Sea Smoke, Ducru, Quilceda Creek, Peter Michael Belle Côte Premier Dinner Flight

For an impromptu Saturday evening wine dinner, we hosted Dr Dan and Linda to grilled steaks, scalloped potatoes and grilled vegetables.

Before dinner we had a selection of artisan cheeses with honey roasted walnuts.

After dinner we had Linda's homemade dark chocolate mousse cake with fresh cream and berries.

Dan brought a couple of fabulous ultra-premium bottles from Peter Michael and SeaSmoke and I pulled from the cellar two favorite bottles to round out a spectacular wine flight, Ducru Beaucaillou and Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley red wine Bordeaux varietal blend.

Peter Michael Belle Côte Knights Valley Sonoma County Chardonnay 2013

Before dinner, with a selection of artisan cheeses we tasted this exquisite limited release ultra premium Peter Michael Sonoma County Chardonnay. Butter colored, medium-full bodied, silky smooth, elegant and polished. With his rich history and roots back in Berkshire, England, where I worked for thirteen years, I regret I never connected with Peter Michael and his California wine activities.

Robert Parker gave this release 99 points and said it is 'flirting with perfection'. Parker writes of this wine showing "almost stony liqueur of rocks, lemon butter, and white peach', and describes it as a 'full-bodied, intense wine with loads of tangerine oil, pineapple jam and that wet stone minerality .... extremely massive, rich, super-concentrated".

James Suckling gave this wine 94 points saying, "This is very open and fruit driven with papaya, mango, and hints of nuts. Lychee too. Full-bodied, fresh and flavorful.... Persistent finish. Lovely purity".

James Laube of Wine Spectator gave it 93 points and cites it "Oozing with complex flavors of honeydew, toasty oak, fig, apricot and tangerine, this is enlivened by snappy acidity and ends with a long, expansive flavor". 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2029455

Transitioning from the pre-dinner course to dinner Dan brought and opened this Sea Smoke 'One Barrel' Pinot Noir. This is a select ultra-premium limited production label from this premier producer that has a cult-like following. This label is only released in years producing fruit worthy of the designated label.  Most years, the winery chooses what they consider their best barrel of their estate-grown Pinot Noir and bottle it as the One Barrel label.


Sea Smoke "One Barrel" Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2014

Sea Smoke produces a line up of ultra-premium estate wines from their vineyards in the Santa Rita Hills appellation at the western end of the Santa Ynez Valley in the California Central Coast wine region.

The name Sea Smoke refers to the marine fog that wafts in from the Pacific Ocean that actually surrounds the area in three directions, to the west, south and southeast. The fog has a profound effect on Sea Smoke wines as the vineyards benefit from the cooling influences of this marine layer from the Pacific Ocean which is about 16 miles away.

The AVA's (appellation) coastal valleys, formed by the Purisima Hills to their north and the Santa Rosa Hills to their south, funnel the cool Pacific breezes up through the vineyards. This ventilation helps to maintain healthy vines by reducing the incidence of fungal infections, while also cooling the vines down in the hot afternoon sunshine.

 With a latitude of 34 degrees north, Sta. Rita Hills lies closer to the equator than any European wine region, but, rather than seeing an increase in temperature as a result, the region's strong maritime influences keep daytime temperatures within bearable limits. The fog also acts as a climatic moderator, lowering the temperatures during the hot summer months. The combined effects of the ocean breezes and fog significantly extend Sta. Rita Hills's growing season, giving its grapes extra time to develop full ripeness.

From the winery: "Each year we select the best barrel of our estate-grown Pinot Noir; every bottle of ‘One Barrel’ produced is from that single, special barrel. It is a unique combination of vintage, vineyard location, Pinot Noir clone and barrel cooper —never to be repeated. Two hundred and eighty prized bottles, from One Barrel."

I am not a huge fan of Pinot Noir and am less discriminating in this type of wine. Never-the-less this was garnet colored, medium bodied, polished and silky smooth, complex with harmonious flavors of dark berry, cranberry, dusty rose and hints of strawberry with mild smooth silky tannins on the finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2324581

https://www.seasmoke.com/

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1989

This has been one of my favorite Bordeaux wines going back to the early eighties when I collected this label in large format bottles for son Ryan's 1982 birth year that we eventually served at his wedding. As such, we collected a vertical collection of this label for all the kids' birth years and still hold more than a dozen vintages of this label dating back to those early eighties releases.

Tonight, this bottle was from a original wood case (OWC) that I acquired upon release around 1991-92. Back then, we could carry wine as carry on luggage on the airplane and I remember many times carrying a case of wine on board back from San Francisco during the many years I commuted there to Silicon Valley for work.

As a long time friend and 'Pour Boy' wine buddy, Dan has grown accustomed to this wine too and hence I serve it often when we're together for occasions such as this.

This is actually a tasting note for this wine from earlier this year in February. "Tonight was consistent with my notes from a decade ago. Garnet color -

medium-light delicate body; floral perfume, black cherry and berry fruits with layers of anise, tobacco and black tea and a hint of leather, with floral continuing on a modest tannin finish. Tasting alongside the 2009, an interesting comparison to the 2009, very different profile between the two vintages, but showing some signs of similarity in the terroir character of the label."

RM 91 points.

I've been saving many of my 1989 vintage wines for fellow Pour Boy and wine buddy Bill C and his son Matt for his birth year. Note Bill, there are six more of these left from this vintage OWC (and an full, still unopened OWC of Pichon Lalande 1989! - there's a party there!).

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/02/otbn-2018_25.html

Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Red Wine Blend 2005

Trolling the cellar for another bottle for after dinner sipping and to accompany Linda's dark chocolate mousse cake with fresh berries and whipped cream, Dan and I selected this Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Red (Bordeaux varietal blend). Dan had never had Quilceda Creek so this was a special treat to bring together and introduce one of our favorite wines to wine 'brother' Dr Dan!

My last review of this dozen year old vintage was back in 2011 when I wrote: "Deep, dark purple color - medium-full bodied - complex, soft polished bouquet and tastes of ripe black and red berry fruits, a soft layer of mocha and vanilla with a smooth moderate tannin finish. Nice easy drinking wine when the call is for a sophisticated red during the hot weather. Nice complement to grilled tenderloin and roasted potatoes - and to the chocolate berry desert. The soft smooth character of this wine seems to be contrary to the the blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot. This wine is consistently enjoyable."

Tonight this tasting of this label was consistent with that experience and was a perfect selection for the occasion. I marveled at how good this wine was and thoroughly enjoyed it as one of the highlights of the evening, large accolades, indeed, against such a exquisite line up of extraordinary wines!

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=437099

Collection of birth year wines held in OWC - original wood cases, from release, shown below.

 

Schwa-Chicago-culinary-art-wine-dinner

Schwa Chicago - a place to experience food as art

Our Pour Boys wine group returned with the girls to dine at Chef Michael Carslon's simple non-descript storefront with the black awning, Schwa Restaurant in Wicker Park, Chicago.

We took a broad diverse flight of fine wines to pair with the nine course artfully crafted haute culinary journey that stimulates all the senses with imaginative dishes that are as artful as they are tasteful.

Schwa provides a perfect BYOB experience as they choreograph an extraordinary culinary course with our extensive wine flight. In retrospect, we learned to bring a more diverse flight of wines rather than three Bordeaux, for example ... A spectacular wine/dine experience in any event. 

Our wine flight:

Fantesca Sonoma County Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2009
Sea Smoke Single Barrel One Santa Rita Hills Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir
Chateau Pavie Macquin St Emilion Bordeaux 2004
Chateau Troplong Mondot St Emilion Bordeaux 2005
Chateau Leoville Las Cases St Julien Bordeaux 2006
Chateau Suideraut Sauterne Bordeaux 2013
Bricco Luciani Mauro Molino Barolo 2013
Crofts Vintage Port 2003

Friend and colleague Mike S joined us from Conneticut and added a new dimension to our wine group and wine flight with two of his own personally crafted wines - Michael's Amarone 2007 and Michael's Super Tuscan Blend 2007.


The culinary artwork mastery of Schwa ... neither pictures nor words can do justice to the olfactory and sensory experience. The music is loud and the pace is frenetic ... too much so to take in the details and keep up ... Go during the week when there is only one seating so you might have more time. Of course bringing so many wine courses didn't help. The staff do an amazing job parsing through the courses and matching the wines.

Pretzel twig ... shitake mushrooms ...

Peanut butter ... crab medallions ...

Signature dish ... shaved truffel, quail egg filled ravioli ...

Trout Roe ...

Spanish Mackerel ...

Seaweed Sea Smoke ...

Beef braised tip  ... served in incense smoker bowl ...

Foie gras ...

Sorbet ...

For so many wines, one tends to hold to compare each against the previous and following resulting in a wide swatch of glasses ...!

http://www.schwarestaurant.com/

Sea Smoke - Cliff Lede highlight FLW Tour Picnic

Sea Smoke and Cliff Lede Highlight Historic Architectural Sites Tailgate Picnic

We traveled to Charlestown, SC for a getaway weekend to visit recently transplanted dear friends, fellow 'Pour Boy' wine buddy Bill and Beth C. We did an immersion in their new city to explore the history, culture, architecture and cuisine (see posting of our Charlestown Culinary Tour). We chose this weekend to take advantage of the special event, opening of the Frank Lloyd Wright Auldbrass Plantation over in Yemassee, SC.

After touring the magnificent FLW property we enjoyed a secluded tailgate lunch at a nearby park at the site of the old historic Old Sheldon Church, originally known as Prince William's Parish Church. The church was built between 1745 and 1753 and was burned by the British in 1779 during the Revolutionary War, rebuilt in 1826, and then burned again in 1865 during the Civil War.

Bill and Beth prepared a picnic lunch and Bill brought a selection of some of our favorite wines for the occasion to accompany sandwiches, salads, snacks and dessert under the Spanish moss draped majestic towering oaks trees. 

Cliff Lede Vineyards Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2015

This is the latest release of one of our favorite Sauvignon Blancs which I consider among the best representations of this varietal, which typically is the truest expression of a grape varietal fruit.

As written in an earlier blogpost in these pages, this vintage release is actually a blend composed of 82% Sauvignon Blanc, 14% Sémillon, 3% Sauvignon Vert, and 1% Muscat Canelli varietals. The result is a complex wine with layers of fruit flavors that blend together in a harmonious pleasant drinking wine.

The fruit for the Lede label is sourced from vineyards in the eastern Rutherford appellation (old vine Musqué clone and Sémillon), a vineyard in the southeastern hills of Napa Valley, grapes from a cooler climate vineyard on the east side of Napa, and some old vines of Sauvignon Vert from the Chiles Valley in eastern Napa County.

Light straw colored, medium-light bodied, harmonious nicely balanced layers of subdued citrus, peach, pear and lychee fruit with a refreshing crisp clean, smooth acidity finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2324460

Sea Smoke Southing Cenral Coast Santa Rita Hills Estate Pinot Noir 2009

This is a classic California Pinot from the Santa Rita Hills appellation on the Central Coast. The branding name 'Sea Smoke' depicts the fog that rolls in from the ocean to then burn off as the day warms up from the interior valley heat. The effect of this daytime sun and heating, and subsequent night time cooling gently soothes the grapes, only to start the cycle again the next day. The result, like the Las Alturas Pinot we had with dinner the evening before is a full bodied, bright, vibrant expressive Pinot Noir, concentrated and complex but nicely balanced and polished with forward fruit flavors.

This 2009 vintage got high marks from all the critics, 92 points from James Suckling, 91 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. Wine Spectator said this wine should drink well out to 2021. 

The winemaker's tasting notes describe the "goal for Southing is to create the ideal marriage of complexity and elegance. The seductive nose of the 2009 Southing exhibits fresh leather, rose water, black cherry, violets and hint of macerated cherry. The fine tannins and minerality are enhanced by our estate vineyard’s  characteristic cool climate acidity."

Bill's Cellartracker notes on this wine; "Wow, this has really hit its stride. Dark garnet color. Dark, sour cherry, smoke and a bit of pepper on the palate. Medium bodied with a dry, mineral finish. Apparently I have been drinking my Southing too early."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1025980

Auldbrass Plantation with Charles Osgood on CBS Sunday Morning

https://www.sciway.net/sc-photos/beaufort-county/old-sheldon-church.html