Nickel & Nickel Stiling Vineyard RRV Sonoma Chardonnay

 Nickel & Nickel Stiling Vineyard RRV Chardonnay 2013

Nickel & Nickel Stiling Vineyard Russian River Valley Sonoma Chardonnay 2013

Nickel & Nickel is one of the brands of legendary Napa Valley producer Far Niente. They produce over two dozen single varietal, single vineyard designated wines, sourced from ten different Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley appellations. 

They specialize in Cabernet Sauvignons and Chardonnays but also produce Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Merlot varietal labels as well. 

We hold a dozen different labels from this producer going back more than two decades, all Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay.

Linda prepared a roasted pork loin in a delicious savory sauce that was a perfect complement to this wine. I've often written in these pages about how the perfect pairing of food and wine is a force multiplier, amplifying the enjoyment of both. This was certainly the case as indicated by a higher rating for this label than my two earlier tastings. 

We toured the Russian River Valley during our Napa Sonoma Wine Experience 2017 year before last. We stayed on the coast in Bodega Bay and traveled the back roads between there and Santa Rosa to witness and experience the climate and topology that comprises the notable terrior of the area.

This is from the Green Valley AVA in Russian River Valley where, the grapes benefit from a cooling coastal influence that helps them ripen slowly and develop complexity.

From the Green Valley AVA site: "Green Valley is one of the smallest appellations in Sonoma County. It lies in the southwestern part of the Russian River Valley, bounded by the towns of Sebastopol, Forestville and Occidental. It is very tightly delineated, both geographically and climatically, and is the most consistent and distinctive of any North Coast appellation in terms of soil, climate and flavor. The fog is Green Valley’s trademark."

The 2013 vintage was a fantastic growing season in the Russian River, with dry, moderate temperatures and cool foggy mornings

From the winery: "The 2013 Nickel & Nickel Stiling Vineyard Chardonnay is consistent from year to year. Passion fruit and floral aromas offer a mere hint of what’s on the palate: flavors of Muscat and Meyer lemon enhanced by flint and stone. A pleasant oiliness adds suppleness to the mouthfeel, but the vibrant acidity cleanses the palate and adds a succulent quality that makes one eager for another sip."

This was golden butter colored, full bodied, very forward, almost obtuse with its firmness and intense buttery and oaky tones and structure that almost overpowers the fruits - passion fruit, melon, floral, lemon, flint and stone.

Linda liked this a lot, classic (over-the-top) full bodied, rich dense California Chardonnay style, and while I found it a bit much in an earlier tasting with delicate sole meuniere, tonight this was delicious and an ideal pairing with the pork chops in a savory brown sauce. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2028407

https://nickelandnickel.com/wines-vineyards/single-vineyard-wines/2013-stiling-vineyard-chardonnay/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/06/napa-reds-and-white-burgundy-for-surf.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/03/nickle-nickle-chardonnay-for-chinns.html

https://nickelandnickel.farniente.com/

https://twitter.com/NickelandNickel

@NickelandNickel 

Nickel & Nickel Stiling Vineyard Russian River Valley Sonoma Chardonnay 

 

Clos du Val Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Clos du Val Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

We're hosting the early arrivals for my global team summit this week for a beefsteak cookout and I'm considering opening a magnum of this label, so I wanted to open it and try it as a preview for the event. Ironically, based on an earlier blogpost, I lasted tasted this a year ago this week - which seems to happen quite often.

My Cellartracker records indicate I bought some, tasted it, then went back and bought more, and then went back and bought a couple magnums of this release.

My records show I tasted one bottle of this label six years ago, back upon release in 2015. Then, I wrote, "The 2013 Napa Cab's are coming and all indications are that it is a blockbuster vintage, one of those where all boats rise with the tide, such that all earnest producers should have notable collectible releases, one for the consumer to rejoice and stock up."

Interesting that Antony Galloni used the same metaphor in writing about this vintage of Napa Valley 2013 vintage, "The rising tide has indeed lifted all boats, as can be seen by the number of estates that over-achieved and made brilliant wines... When all is said and done, there is little doubt 2013 will go down as one of the all-time great vintages for Napa Valley."

The Clos du Val received spectacular ratings and appears to be one of those rare wines that come along every so often where everything comes together for a high QPR (Quality Price Ratio) highest rated wine at a moderate price point. 

Clos du Val Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

The wine is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 7% Merlot, and 2% Petite Sirah. It was aged for 18 months in 25% new oak before bottling. 

This label was rated 95 points by Vinous and Antonio Galloni of Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 92 points by James Suckling. 

Chicago wine merchant Vin Chicago described it this way. "Even more impressive than the flavors is the structure. The tannins are powerful and youthful, yet as nuanced and integrated as you'll find in some of the world's best Cabernet or Bordeaux." 

At eight years, this is just now starting to hit its stride and has a long life ahead and may not yet have reached the apex of its drinking/aging profile. It might settle down and integrate a bit further for more polish and nuance, but it is delicious now as it is. 

Bright garnet/purple colored, medium full bodied, vibrant, forward expressive blackberry, dark cherry and black currant fruits with notes of graphite, smoke, floral, herbs, black tea and tobacco turning to firm but smooth approachable tannins and a pleasing bright tangy lingering finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2122040

http://www.closduval.com/

@ClosDuValNapa 

 

Carlisle Sonoma County Syrah 2013

Carlisle Sonoma County Syrah 2013 with BBQ Rib Dinner

For a grilled BBQ Rib dinner we pulled from the cellar this hearty aged Syrah for a fabulous, perfect food wine pairing.

Carlisle are a small, family-owned Sonoma County winery specializing in the production of old-vine, vineyard designated Zinfandels and red Rhône varieties (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Petite Sirah). They also produce a small selection of white wines, two of which are blends from historic, old-vine vineyards plus Sonoma County's first ever Grüner Veltliner.

They strive for wines that are bold and intensely flavored, each reflecting its vintage and vineyard, but they also look to create wines of balance, complexity, and nuance. They have built a reputation for producing outstanding, pleasurable wine at a fair price - often at high QPR - Quality Price Ratios.

Robert Parker wrote about producer. winemaker Mike Officer. "One of the great success stories in Northern California is the genesis of Carlisle Winery, whose owner, Mike Officer, began as a wine hobbiest / software developer and grew into a full-time wine producer who has done more to save head-pruned, old-vine Zinfandel vineyards than anyone else in the United States. He built his reputation on full-flavored red wines and continues to fine-tune these beauties, often field blends of what are generically referred to as “mixed blacks” planted primarily by Italian immigrants prior to Prohibition." 

Mike got hooked on wine in college, reading everything he could on the subject, became a collector, attended numerous wine tastings, and taught a course on wine appreciation.

After graduation, he worked as a software developer, but after three years, he pivoted to pursue his passion, applying his analytical skills and creativity, setting out on a career in Winemaking.

Starting with five gallons of Zinfandel in the kitchen, he progressed to a barrel of Zinfandel each vintage with the help of friends and wife, Kendall Carlisle. Encouraged by the results. he and Kendall moved to Santa Rosa in Sonoma County captivated by the old-vine vineyards with their ancient twisted vines with deep roots and long histories. By 1997 he was producing over 300 cases of “garage” wine, mostly vineyard designated old-vine Zinfandels, winning numerous gold medals in amateur competitions.

In 1998, he and Kendall with the support of family, launched Carlisle Winery & Vineyards, concentrating on old-vine Zinfandel and red Rhône varieties (Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Petite Sirah), with a goal to create small lots of distinctive, world-class wines from some of California’s most exceptional vineyards. Using vacation from his 'day' job, they produced 650 cases in that first vintage.

They sourced Zinfandel from some of the finest vineyards in the county, planted between 1888 and 1934, including their own vineyard planted in 1927. For Rhône varieties, they contracted with small, family growers, who were equally dedicated and passionate about growing grapes for making exceptional wines. 

After growing production to nearly 1000 cases in 2000, Mike was feeling over-extended in balancing the demands of the growing business and his career as a software developer. If he were to be a full-time winemaker, he would need to increase production to make a living. 

In 2001, he teamed up with Jay Maddox, an old college friend who had just earned a second degree in viticulture and enology from U.C. Davis. Jay joined Carlisle, bringing a wealth of knowledge, a keen palate, and the shared desire to produce the best wines possible. By 2004, they had grown to nearly 10,000 cases production, earning high praise from wine critics and consumers, and settled in to devoting full time to the wine business. 

Today Carlisle produce a dozen plus Zinfandels and nearly a dozen Rhone varietal red wines including this one, sourced from Sonoma estate vineyards and select contract growers.

This is a blend of 54% Russian River Valley Syrah from Papa's Block, 40% Sonoma Mountain Syrah from the Steiner Vineyard, and 6% Sonoma Valley Grenache from Rossi Ranch Vineyard.

 Syrah, sourced from the Papa’s Block and the Steiner Vineyard, which had previously been bottled as single vineyard labels. 

The Papa's Block in the Russian River Valley is named after the growers father, known as Papa to his grandchildren, a special 2-acre block planted to Carlisle specifications within the larger Atoosa's Vineyard.

The Steiner Vineyard, located on the northwest face of Sonoma Mountain has a history of growing grapes for over 40 years.  Carlisle got involved with the property in 2005 after it was taken over by Nate and Lauren Belden, working with vineyard manager Chris Bowland.

Carlisle Sonoma County Syrah 2013

This label release was rated 90-92 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 90-92 points by  Vinous. Cases Produced: 846

Dark garnet colored with hues of purple, medium-full bodied, rich, round blackberry and black cherry fruits with notes of anise, licorice, spices, floral and hints of mint on the full lingering finish. 

RM 90 points. 

Winemaker notes: Like our Rossi Ranch Grenache, this was one of the surprises of 2013.  Despite the perfect growing season, we felt our Papa’s Block Syrah lacked its typical uniqueness.  Rather than being an outstanding Papa’s Block Syrah it was merely an outstanding Syrah, but still worthy of bottling on its own.  We looked at potential blends and found that combining Papa’s Block and Steiner Vineyard Syrahs a wine much better than each component was produced.  

Tasting Note: Very dark ruby-purple.  With swirling, aromas of blackberry, smoke, game, and cracked black pepper emerge.  Surprisingly elegant, the wine flows over the palate with notes of blackberry, boysenberry, and a hint of bitter chocolate.  Like most of our 2013s, just tremendous balance.  Supple tannins and a gentle grip emerge on the long, focused finish.  A wine that drinks at several times above its price point.  Enjoy this beauty from late 2015 through 2023.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2015014

https://www.carlislewinery.com/drinkability-chart/2013/sonoma-county-syrah

https://twitter.com/CarlisleWinery

 

 

Tuscan Brunello 2013 Horizontal at Italian Village

Team Dinner Features Mini Horizontal of 2013 Tucsan Brunello di Montalcino at Italian Village Chicago 

Due to pandemic concerns and restrictions we significantly downsized our global team meeting scheduled for this week in Chicago. For the dramatically reduced, remaining set of the attendees, who were not involved in other activities this evening, we held an extended team dinner at our usual go-to venue, Italian Village, Chicago.  

 

Besides the team-building, fellowship and business interaction, one of the fun and entertaining aspects of hosting a small group dinner is the ability to serve and taste a variety of wines for comparison tasting. This was part of a continuum of numerous dinners which I've featured in earlier blogposts about our wine and dinners at Italian Village, Chicago's oldest, longest running continuously family operated Italian restaurant.

 

Taking advantage of and exploiting the extraordinary, extensive wine list and wine cellar of Italian Village, curated and managed under the direction of dear friend Jared Gelband, Wine Director, I selected a flight of wines. I selected from the vast cellar winelist a horizontal flight (wines of the same vintage), four 2013 vintage Brunello di Montalcino labels. In the end, three of the four labels we selected were available in stock in the cellar which we consumed. (The other label selection that was not available was Molino di Sant'Antimo Brunello di Montalcino 2013.)

The vast Italian Village cellar and winelist several pages of Brunello di Montalcino labels across vintages spanning more two decades. 

Brunello di Montalcino is the DOCG specified Italian wine classification, the highest in the rank order of the four levels. The Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) designation classification was established in 1980. It is one of Italy's best-known and most expensive wines.

Brunello is the local name for Sangiovese grape varietal based wines, used since 1865, when a producer in the village of Montalcino made Italy's first 100% Sangiovese wine.  

The name Brunello is derived from a grape varietal of the same name that over time became apparent it is the same grape as the popular varietal, Sangiovese. The Brunello di Montalcino DOCG is conferred on highest quality red wines produced in the vineyards surrounding the town of Montalcino, in the province of Siena. The region is located about 80 km south of Florence in the Tuscany wine region. 

There are about 250 wineries in the region, mostly smaller estates with vineyards of about 50 acres, with a combined total of about 8500 acres of vines. Most are located in the western part of the region, the area most influenced by the climatic effects of the nearby Mediterranean sea. Several of the top producers and a regional map are shown above.  

Brunellos based on the Sangiovese grape with its thicker-skinned berries tend to produce wines with exceptionally bold fruit flavors, high tannin, and high acidity that extend the life of the wine.  Hence, they tend to be rather long lived wines, reaching their peak perfection after a decade or more. Taking advantage of the deep and broad selection available on the Italian Village cellar winelist,  I selected a flight of nine year old Brunello di Montalcino DOCG classified wines to accompany our Italian cuisine, and to compare different labels from the same vintage. 

Fanti Brunello di Montalcino 2013

The Tenuta Fanti estate has belonged to the Fanti family since the beginning of the eighteen hundreds, managed under the direction of Filippo Fanti since the early 1970s, joined by his daughter Elisa in 2007. The winemaker is Fillipo Artini.

The Fanti Estate is located in the heart of Tuscany, in the valley of Castelnuovo dell’Abate which lies to the south of the village of Montalcino. The estate spans 750 acres of land with eighteen different vineyards spanning 135 acres, several surrounding the new wine cellar built in 2004.

When Filippo Fanti took over leadership of the company in the early 1970's, he focused on striving for the highest quality wines that would express the terroir of Castelnuovo dell' Abate. Starting with the soils, he sustainably replanted the vineyards and olive trees after a careful selection of the most suitable plots within the estate. In 2004, construction began on a new modernized spacious gravity flow cellar for winemaking, ageing, and refinement.  

The Fanti Estate vineyards are planted mostly to Sangiovese but also include the Tuscan Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Sauvignon and Merot, some Syrah and white wine grapes Viognier and lesser known grapes Trebbiano, Malvasia and San Colombano. There are also 150 acres of olive trees, 200 acres of seed crops and the remaining land in forest. 

Fanti produce a portfolio of nine different wines plus a grappa dessert wine, primarily Sangiovese based including this Brunello, as well as several Tuscans consisting of the Bordeaux varietals and the Syrah, and a couple white wines from estate grown Viognier

The first vintage of Fanti Brunello di Montalcino was released back in 1980, selected from twenty-five acres of Sangiovese grapes located on the different slopes of the Castelnuovo dell'Abate area.

This 2013 vintage release was awarded 93 points by James Suckling, 92 points by Vinous A. Galloni, and 90 points by Wine Advocate Robert Parker, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast.

The producer's tasting notes for this release: "Color: bright ruby red, medium intensity. Nose: complex notes of cherry, red fruits and violet, alongside with pepper, licorice and cinnamon. Fresh balsamic note. Palate: tannins are dense and well integrated, great acidity, elegant, vertical and slightly sapid. Well balanced. The retro nasal recalls perfectly the nose."

This was bright ruby colored, medium bodied, black cherry and red berry fruits with notes of floral, a bit of sweetnesss with spicy cinnamon, licorice and hints of white pepper with soft tannins on a crisp clean tangy finish.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2204555 

https://www.tenutafanti.it/en/home/

Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2013

This renowned premium label is owned by the famous fashion designer Massimo Ferragamo, and Chiara Ferragamo, who purchased the historic property of nearly 5,000-acres, formerly a medieval village, in 2003. They set upon enhancing and modernizing the facilities, renovating the historic Borgo and villas, and updating the winery and cellars.

The history of Castiglion del Bosco dates back to the 1100's and great Sienese families who settled the area. The estate was farmed over the ensuing 800 years. 

The historic castle was erected in 1100 in classic medieval style. At the dawn of the thirteenth century, the Cacciaconti family of Trequanda had stone walls built around the stronghold that stands on the hilltop, still visible today with the stone tower.

In 1318, Sienese Ciampolo Gallerani declared himself lord of the fortress. He claimed that one of his descendants, Cecilia Gallerani, was the girl depicted by Leonardo da Vinci in his famous painting “Lady with an Ermine” (1488). On his death, in 1338, Castiglion del Bosco fell under the rule of the Piccolomini family, who initiated widespread renovation of the fortifications.

Castiglion del Bosco is one of Montalcino's most isolated vineyards with its 150 acres of vines surrounded by nearly 3000 acres of woodlands. The Castiglion del Bosco name is derived from the word bosco,(wood), surrounding the Castiglion (walled castle), 'fortress in the woods'. The estate retains the same historic boundaries with the famous Borgo, school, stables, and the crop fields, vineyards and olive groves. The rolling Val d'Orcia land has been the subject of landscape paintings for generations of Tuscan artists. 

Castiglion del Bosco was one of the founding members when Montalcino's wineries teamed up and created the region's official Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino 1967. The Brunello di Montalcino Wine Consortium was one of the earliest Italian wine producing regions to earn Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) status. From the originial 25 founding members producing about 850,000 bottles annually, today’s production now exceeds 6,000,000 bottles from the consortium membership that has grown to 140 wineries.

In 2010, the Castiglion del Bosco Golf Club was developed, the only private golf club in Italy, a stunning 18-hole course designed by Tom Weiskopf is sited near the world-class winery and a five-star resort set on nearly 520 acres.

The vast parkland that surrounds the Castiglion del Bosco estate contains the Art, Nature and Culture Park of Val d’Orcia, established in 1967 as a Protected Natural Area. Castiglion del Bosco Val d’Orcia was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, acknowledged as a place of outstanding universal value.

In 2021 the 2016 vintage Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino was awarded 99 points by James Suckling and it came in second place in his Top 100 Wines of Italy 2020, listed along with the best wines of any Italian wine region and appellation.

The estate of Castiglion del Bosco grows primarily Sangiovese, and its line of wines is an expression of the two local denominations: three different interpretations of Brunello and the Rosso di Montalcino.  Prima Pietra, the second vineyard property of Massimo Ferragamo  lies in Riparbella, on the Tuscan coast, with 27 acres of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 

This was garnet colored, medium bodied, expressive black cherry and black raspberry fruits, notes of toast, leather, tobacco, spice and hints of pepper with a nice balance of acidity and tannins on the long engaging finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2297312

https://wine.castigliondelbosco.com/?lang=en

Castelgiocondo (Marchesi de' Frescobaldi) Brunello di Montalcino 2013

Another of the vast Marchesi de' Frescobaldi properties of Tuscany, one of seven estates they own and manage across the Northern Italian Tuscany Bolgheri region, some of which have been in the family dating back to the 1300's.  

This Brunello di Montalcino property lies in the historic Castelgiocondo village, the area dominated by an ancient castle, in a small medieval village south-west of Montalcino, the ancient stronghold built in 1100 to defend the road leading from the sea to Siena.

The village of Castelgiocondo overlooks the historic Frescobaldi estate. The property was one of the first to begin producing Brunello di Montalcino in 1800, its historic importance represented on the label of Castelgiocondo by the figure of a condottiere from a celebrated fresco of the Sienese artist Simone Martini.

The label features the artist’s depiction showing Guidoriccio da Fogliano, commander of the troops of Siena who in 1323 led the attack on the Montemassi castle; an historic moment that coincided with the initiation of the Frescobaldi family’s centuries-old adventure in the world of wine.

This label release was awarded 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and by Wine Spectator.

The Castelgiocondo 2013 Brunello di Montalcino shows dark garnet color, medium body, nicely balanced, round full blackberry and black cherry fruits with earthy spice, tobacco and leather with bright acidity as firm but approachable tannins.

 

RM 92 points.

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2916610 

https://www.frescobaldi.com/en/

https://www.frescobaldi.com/en/estates/tenuta-castelgiocondo

I was disappointed that one of the labels I was especially eager to try and compare with the others from this same region and vintage, Molino di Sant'Antimo, was no longer available in the cellar, so we opted for this perennial high value and dependable favorite Tuscan red blend.

Antinori Tenuta Guado Al Tasso Il Bruciato 2019, Bolgheri DOC

This is from another famous prodigious Tuscan family, owners and producers of a broad portfolio of wines sourced from their vast estate holdings across the regions. 

As written in recent blogposts on this wine, this is from the Guado al Tasso estate, located in the small but prestigious Bolgheri DOC appellation on the coast of Upper Maremma, about one hundred kilometers southwest of Florence. This appellation has a relatively recent history as it was established in 1994, but has gained worldwide recognition as a new reference point in the international oenological scene. The estate covers an area of 2500 acres, of which about 790 acres are planted with vines. 

The Guado al Tasso estate is one of nine major well known brands of the vast Antinori family wine empire. Guado al Tasso’s vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Vermentino grapes; this last cultivated with both with white and red varieties. Adjacency to the nearby sea provides a mild climate with constant breezes mitigate summer heat and alleviate harsh winter weather, maintaining a clear sky and a high level of sunlight exposure. 

The Il Bruciato label was created in the year 2002 as the the second wine under the flagship Guado al Tasso. It is crafted to represent the unique terroir of Bolgheri and give it a greater visibility and recognition. The first blend to be used was that of Guado al Tasso only to see, in the years which followed, a modification of the varietal composition and the identification of a series of vineyard plots intended to be used exclusively for this wine. 

Il Bruciato is now regarded as a modern interpretation of Bolgheri’s unique terroir made from carefully selected Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grapes from all around Guado al Tasso’s vineyards. Cabernet Sauvignon was blended with Merlot, Syrah and a small percentage of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot and the final blend was reintroduced into barriques where it was left to age before bottling.

A widely popular wine known for great value with exceptional QPR - quality-price-ration, this is one of the few Italian labels I regularly keep in our cellar for dependable everyday sipping, but also respectable for a fine dinner accompaniment. 

I served the 2016 release of this label at a team dinner reecntly, the last of my holdings from that vintage. I write more about this label in that blogpost. The 2018 release sold out very quickly making this 2019 even more anticipated. While this is a wine that has increased in price significantly over the past few years it remains a great value and is a real must-buy for regular Bolgheri enthusiasts. 

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant expressive black cherry and black berry fruits with  spices, tobacco, milk chocolate, cedar and notes of graphite on the tangy acidic finish.

RM 91 points. 

Winemaker's Tasting Notes: Il Bruciato 2019 is intensely ruby red in color. Its nose expresses notes of small dark fruit, sweet spices and tobacco. Its well-structured palate is harmonious and very pleasant to drink. Fresh fruity notes dominate the finish.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2904858

https://www.antinori.it/en/vino/il-bruciato-en/ 

https://www.antinori.it/en/

 

https://italianvillage-chicago.com/wine-cellar/

 

https://twitter.com/italianvlg  

https://twitter.com/jzgwine

Chateau La Nerthe CDP 2013

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape 2013 BYOB for Angeli's Italian family dinner outing

Friday night dinner at Angelis Italian, our favorite neighborhood Italian Trattoria, with Alec and Vivianna, I took from the cellar BYOB this complex big red. 

We tasted this wine when together we visited Château La Nerthe during our Châteauneuf du Pape Wine Experience in 2019. 

I write in more detail about this producer and label in my blogpost of that event. 

Tonight, for starters we had from the Specials Menu, Meatballs with Ricotta Cheese and the Gnocci Gorgonzola. For my entree selection I had the special Pork Loin with Port Wine with Artichokes, Portabella Mushrooms and roasted potatoes (shown), great pairings with our Rhone blend. 

As I wrote in my blogpost about our visit to the Château La Nerthe estate, Château La Nerthe is one of the oldest estates in Châteauneuf du Pape dating back to 1560. The historic chateau was built in 1736. Château La Nerthe was one of the first estates to bottle their own wine. 

The owners of La Nerthe are the Richard family in a partnership with negociants David and Foillard took over the property in 1986. They completely renovated the estate and replanted much of the vineyards.  In 1991, Château La Nerthe expanded their holdings with the purchase of 22 hectares of vines, which helped to create one of the largest estates in the Southern Rhone with 90 hectares under vine.

Starting with the 2015 vintage, Ralph Garcin was placed in charge of the estate and its winemaking. Previously Ralph Garcin was working for Jaboulet in Hermitage.

The 90 hectare vineyard of Château La Nerthe has a terroir of rock, sand, clay and loam soils. Much of the vineyards and the chateau are located at the estate southeast of the village, sixty hectares of the vineyards in two large blocks adjacent and in front of the Chateau.

The remaining 30 hectares are behind the chateau and abut the plateau of La Crau (shown right), has the classic Rhone valley rocks and stones, known as galets in the region. 

The vineyards of Château La Nerthe are planted with all 13 types of grapes allowed in the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation.

While the property has plantings of all 13 of the appellation’s permitted varietals, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah dominate the red blend. The estate has one of the highest proportions of white vines in the region and produces a special white cuvée – Clos de Beauvenir – sourced from grapes from the clos directly in front of the château. Chateau La Nerthe produces 3 red Châteauneuf du Pape wines and 2 Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc wines. 

 

We tasted the Clos de Beauvenir premium white label together at another dinner outing when we dined together last fall Al Fresco at Suzettes Creperie in nearby Wheaton (IL). 

Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape 2013

This is the flagship label of Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape. The typical blend of Chateau La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape is 55% Grenache, 17% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, 7% Cinsault, 3% Counoise and the remaining 3% is a blend of the other varietals planted in the vineyard.

Close to 15,000 cases are produced each year.

At nine years of age, this is likely at or nearing the apex of its drinkability, the fill level, label, foil and cork were in perfect condition. 

This was a outstanding representation of the 2013 vintage. It showed deep garnet color with purple sprites, medium bodied, rich full complex but well balanced and integrated black cherry, strawberry, red and black fruits, with notes of spice, tobacco, cedar, sandalwood, and balsamic, turning to a smooth polished finish of round fine-grained delicate tannins. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2031809

https://www.chateaulanerthe.com/

 

Jack's Masterpiece Father Son (s) Celebration Tasting

Hall Jack's Masterpiece, Signorello Padrone for Father Son (s) Celebration Tasting

For eldest son Ryan's birthday we pulled from our cellar a special bottling label crafted and dedicated as a tribute to Father's Day and father-sons. We were joined by youngest son Alec who also brought a Napa Cabernet to share and compare. 

Ryan had open from his cellar a Signorello Padrone Napa Valley Oak Knoll District Cabernet Sauvignon 2013. Alec brought a Cliff Lede Stags Leap District Cabernet, the Lede estate is a line of sight neighbor to Signorello, just down and across Silverado Trail, but across the geographic boundary, the foothill rise that separates the Stags Leap from Oak Knoll appellations.

To top off the tasting flight, I brought Hall Vineyards Jack's Masterpiece Napa Valley Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon, another 2013 for a horizontal comparison with the Padrone. 

All these wines were spectacular with the fudge chocolate that Linda brought along - a perfect pairing that accentuated the enjoyment of it all. 

 

Signorello Padrone Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Our visit to the Signorello Napa Valley Estate Vineyard & Winery was one of the highlights of our Napa Valley wine Experience in 2013. 

This is a poignant memory as the magnificent Estate was destroyed by the Atlas Fire that ravaged the hills of Napa Valley and engulfed much of sections of Sonoma and Napa County in August, 2017. 

The fire came down the foothills to the property that sat up the hill back from the highway. The fire had winds that reportedly topped 70 mph on Atlas Peak that swept the flames down to the Silverado Trail area near Soda Canyon and destroyed the Signorello winery production facilities, offices, hospitality space and the Signorello family home. 

We viewed the devastation during our Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley visits in 2017 and Napa Wine Experience 2018. It was amazing how Signorello was destroyed, yet adjacent wineries such as Darioush were untouched. Notably, son Alec's and Vivianna's honeymoon to Napa Valley was cut short last year due to the ravishing Glass Fire that forced cancellation of a half dozen of their winery visits.  Signorello has become a symbol of the survival and recovery, and resurgence, the spirit of Napa (and Sonoma) wine producers.

The Signorello Napa Valley Estate Vineyard & Winery site sits on the base of the eastern slope of the Vaca Mountains overlooking Napa Valley near the bottom of Silverado Trail in the Oak Knoll Appellation of Napa Valley. At the very southern end of Napa Valley and the Silverado Trail, the estate has 43 acres of vineyards, including some of the oldest Chardonnay and Cabernet vines in all of Napa Valley with 40-year-old vines.  

Meeting the cousins at Signorello Estate
overlooking vineyards and valley floor.

Signorello is coming back, the Napa County Planning Commission approved their plan to increase annual production from 20,000 gallons to 50,000 gallons and annual visitation from 6,637 guests to 20,221 guests. 

The plans include construction of a 15,906-square-foot cave, increasing parking from 10 to 17 spaces and employees from four to 20.

 The Signorello family bought the Silverado Trail property in 1977, initially growing grapes that they sold to other wineries; they started producing their own wine in 1985.

Signorello Padrone Napa Valley Proprietary Red Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Padrone is Signorello's flagship wine, produced in honor of Ray Signorello Sr., the patriarch of the family and founder of the estate. Grapes for this complex proprietary red wine are sourced from two extremely rocky parts of the estate vineyard with minimal yields of only 1.3 tons per acre.  

 

Ray Signorello first made this wine in 1997, although the first vintage for Signorello was back in 1985. Most of the vineyard is between 30 and 40 years of age. 

 

This label was rated 96+ points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

 

This wine is a selection of the best lots chosen from the top rank 2013 vintage. The wine is sensational long, rich, complex and should age for 30 or more years.

 

The 2013 Padrone Proprietary Red Wine is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc. This is aged in 100% new French oak.

 

Despite decanting and aerating a couple times, this was a brooding bruiser, a big bold concentrated and structured wine with a firm tannic backbone, this will age for another two decades or more and may be more approachable after a few more years of aging.

Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied, complex, dense contrated powerful blackberry, black current and black cherry fruits (note the redundant 'black' fruits), with tones of bittersweet dark mocha chocolate, graphite, what Anthony Galonni of Wine Advocate refers to as 'scorched earth', creme de casis licorice, leather and hints of mint with a long tongue puckering tannin laced finish. 

RM 94 points.
 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2456066

 

https://www.signorelloestate.com/ 

 

https://twitter.com/SigVin 

@SigVin

 

Hall's Jack's Masterpiece Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

This special bottling is crafted from select grapes from the HALL Wines vineyards from their 500-hundred acre estate in the Rutherford Hills of Napa Valley and ten estate vineyards across the valley. 

This is a fun label and appropriate for the occasion. It is a special blend produced annually by Hall President Mike Reynolds dating back to when he was head winemaker there. The label features an original painting done by his son, Jack, who was eighteen months old at the time, who painted the picture and presented it to his father on Father's Day. 

As I have written in earlier posts, this is another very special wine for a several reasons; it is devoted to family, it is based on artwork, and it is a birthyear vintage for two of our grandkids. Our dearly beloved Lucy was an artist, our daughter Erin was educated in Art, Art History and Fine Arts, and taught art for several years, and Linda is a budding artist and studied and taught art history.

 With the current market price at $230  (Cellartracker average value), this is what one might call a 'special occasion' wine, set aside for celebrations such as this. We featured this wine for our Gala Family Christmas celebration wine dinner last year, and previously for a Covid Shutin virtual family dinner.

Our tastings at the Rutherford site have been highlights of several of our Napa Valley Wine Experiences such as this on back in 2013. We tasted this wine during with Kathryn Hall during the release tour tasting for Club Members in Chicago in 2018. Ryan also tasted and acquired this wine during a visit to the magnificent Hall Rutherford cave tasting room. We acquired this label as part of our Hall wine club allocations.

Son Alec selected Hall's Excellenz from their super premium collection for special gifting to clients for the holiday a year ago.

This vintage selection is also the birthyear of Ryan's daughter Marleigh and cousin Richie, eldest son of our daughter Erin. 

This was awarded 99 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 95 points from Wine Spectator and 93 points from Vinous.

This is a premium blend, selected from the finest grapes from Hall's finest vineyards. All the pundits say it needs several years to shed its 'formidable tannic heft', and that it has three decades or more of longevity. 

From their reviews: "opaque purple color, opulent, full-bodied mouthfeel, deep, plush texture, dark, powerful and explosive, blueberry and blackberry fruits, blackberry jam, dark berry flavors, mocha-scented oak and notes of blackberry, licorice, hazelnut and brownie, espresso, chocolate, leather and super-sweet tannins.

This was clearly WOTN (Wine of the Night) - dark garnet with inky purple hues, full bodied, black and blue berry fruits - smooth, silky, velvety, polished, elegeant - a symphony of flavors, mocha, cognac, toasty oak, creme de cassis, tobacco and leather .. a long sensuous finish ... 

RM 96 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2289051

https://www.hallwines.com/ 

https://twitter.com/HALLWines

@HALLWines 

Cliff Lede Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

This is a perennial favorite that we collect as members (Ryan) of their wineclub. We've visited the Stag's Leap District estate during numerous visits to Napa Valley. 

Alec is carrying on the tradition to the next generation with this label. 

It was fun to taste the next new vintage release of this label that we have collected and enjoyed for more than a decade. Alas, tonight it wasn't a fair fight against these two stellar, spectacular ultra-premium labels. It was a shadow of the Signorello with a similar profile and character but lacking in comparative depth or breadth. We'll save a proper review when we can taste this in an appropriate setting and pairing that will reveal its potential.  

Mentioned links:

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2013/04/signorello-napa-valley-estate-vineyard.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2013/04/hall-napa-valley-rutherford-estate.html 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/09/kathryn-hall-vertical-tasting-hall-wine.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/12/gala-family-christmas-celebration-wine.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/03/calera-ryan-vineyard-jacks-masterpiece.html

Capri Indy Italian Cuisine & Wine Dinner

Capri Indy Italian Cuisine & Wine Dinner Features San Guido Guildalberto and Arcanum Toscana

Visiting best of friends and relatives in Indianapolis, we dined at Capri Ristorante al fresco. Capri Ristorante has been a part of the Indianapolis dining scene since 1951, one of Indy’s finest and oldest locally owned restaurants. 

The Italian cuisine was extraordinary - the Veal Scallopine Parmigiana and off-menu specially prepared eggplant Parmigiana were both were as good as we can remember ever having tasted anywhere.

They have a thoughtfully crafted extensive winelist with equal offerings of American and Italian wines,  including selections of both by the glass.

We selected two Italian red wines, Tuscans comprised of Bordeaux varietals to complement our dinner entrees. 

Tenuta di Arceno Arcanum Toscana IGT 2013 

This outstanding Super Tuscan was a special offer, not on the winelist. 

Arcanum is from Tenuta di Arceno in located in the southernmost corner of Chianti Classico between the cities of Siena and Florence in the commune of Castelnuovo Berardenga in the province of Siena, Tuscany. 

The property covers 2,500 acres of rolling hills, forests of ancient Cypress trees, olive groves and 223 acres planted to vineyards. It is bordered by the ancient walled town of San Gusmé.

The Tenuta di Arceno estate was purchased by the California wine legend Jess Jackson in 1994.  The legendary wine entrepreneur Jess Jackson and notable winemaker Vigneron Pierre Seillan visited Tenuta di Arceno in 1994 and immediately recognized the potential of the historic estate. 

After taking over the estate, they spent the following two decades replanting the vineyards, updating the winery, and elevating the viticulture and winemaking practices to world-class standards. Today, Tenuta di Arceno is widely considered one of the premier estates in the Chianti Classico region.

This Arcanum 2013 label release was crafted by Seillan who has has been awarded no less than fifteen 100-point scores from Wine Advocate for his work with the Sonoma producer Peter Michael and his portfolio of labels including the flagship Verite. Five of those perfect wines were for his Cabernet Franc based wine Le Desir which is nearly identical to the blend of this Super Tuscan.  

Cabernet Franc is the predominant varietal grape grown by Arcanum as it has proven to be the variety best suited to the estate’s diverse soils and topography.

This was dark garnet colored, full bodied, deeply concentrated, complex, powerful and thickly layered yet nicely balanced and approachable black berry and black cherry fruits accented note of spice, anise, graphite, herbs and notes of balsamic on a fine tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

This was awarded 96 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

The 2013 Arcanum is a Bordeaux blend of 73% Cabernet Franc with smaller parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3642920 

https://www.tenutadiarceno.com/en

We then followed with this classic Italian Chianti Classico. 

Tenuta San Guido Guildalberto 2019

We next tasted this big bold bright lively Italian red. 

This is from Tenuta San Guido, a 7,500-acre estate located in the province of Livorno on the western coastal outskirts of Tuscany near the village of Bolgheri. Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta acquired it through his marriage to Clarice della Gherardesca in 1940.

Tenuta San Guido are known for their legendary flagship Sassicaia label whose legacy began in 1944, when Mario Incisa acquired a number of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc vine cuttings and planted them on a sloping hillside of the San Guido estate, called Castiglioncello after the 11th-century castle at the vineyard's upper edge. The tiny, 3.75-acre vineyard stood alone until 1965, when a second Cabernet vineyard was planted with cuttings from the Castiglioncello parcel; the gravelly, 30-acre plot would give the wine its name: Sassicaia, "the place of many stones".

This is Sassicaia's little brother, Guidalberto, a lush Super Tuscan sourced completely from the Tenuta San Guido estate in Bolgheri. It is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, . 

Producer Nicolò Incisa explained the choice of the name and creation of the new wine in 2000: this label wine was first released in 2000, created to see what they could achieve with Merlot, a grape that they had never used before; and to offer the consumer a wine which could be appreciated at a younger age compared to the veteran long lived Sassicaia.

The wine is aged 15 months mostly in French and some American oak barrels.

This 2019 release was 95 points and Editor's Choice by Wine Enthusiast, 95 points Luca Gardini, Gardini Notes and 94 Points by the Zachys (NY) Buying Team.

We first tasted and discovered this label at a wine producer dinner at Italian Village Chicago last year hosted by Italian Village Chicago and Wine Director Jared Gelband and featuring producer co-owner Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta. That dinner showcased a vertical tasting of the flagship Sassicaia, but opened with this label. 

This was darky inky garnet purple colored, medium full bodied, nicely balanced, bright vibrant blackberry and ripe plum fruits accented by zesty anise, hints of smoke, vanilla and graphite, and by tangy acid on the expressive finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3642920

https://capriindianapolis.com/

Clos du Val Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Clos du Val Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

I opened this Napa Cab with left over beef tenderloin from our gala dinner the other evening for a wonderful wine and beefsteak pairing. I bought a case of this wine upon release and after tasting this bottle, wow, am I glad I had the foresight to stock up on this label release. 

My Cellartracker records indicate I bought some, tasted it, then went back and bought more, and then went back and bought a couple magnums of this release.

Son Alec was over and had never had this historic long time Napa producer so it was a chance to educate and introduce him to this benchmark Napa Cab.  

My records show I tasted one bottle of this label six years ago, back upon release in 2015. Then, I wrote, "The 2013 Napa Cab's are coming and all indications are that it is a blockbuster vintage, one of those where all boats rise with the tide, such that all earnest producers should have notable collectible releases, one for the consumer to rejoice and stock up."

Interesting that Antony Galloni used the same metaphor in writing about this vintage of Napa Valley 2013 vintage, "The rising tide has indeed lifted all boats, as can be seen by the number of estates that over-achieved and made brilliant wines... When all is said and done, there is little doubt 2013 will go down as one of the all-time great vintages for Napa Valley."

The Clos du Val received spectacular ratings and appears to be one of those rare wines that come along every so often where everything comes together for a high QPR (Quality Price Ratio) highest rated wine at a moderate price point. 

Clos du Val Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

The wine is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 7% Merlot, and 2% Petite Sirah. It was aged for 18 months in 25% new oak before bottling. 

This label was rated 95 points by Vinous and Antonio Galloni of Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 92 points by James Suckling. 

Chicago wine merchant Vin Chicago described it this way. "Even more impressive than the flavors is the structure. The tannins are powerful and youthful, yet as nuanced and integrated as you'll find in some of the world's best Cabernet or Bordeaux." 

At eight years, this is just now starting to hit its stride and has a long life ahead and may not yet have reached the apex of its drinking/aging profile. It might settle down and integrate a bit further for more polish and nuance, but it is delicious now as it is. 

Bright garnet/purple colored, medium full bodied, vibrant, forward expressive blackberry, dark cherry and black currant fruits with notes of graphite, smoke, floral, herbs, black tea and tobacco turning to firm but smooth approachable tannins and a pleasing bright tangy lingering finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2122040

http://www.closduval.com/

@ClosDuValNapa 

 

 

Tomahawk Rib-eye and Napa Cab Dinner

 Cowboy Tomahawk Rib-eyes and Duo of Napa Cabs Dinner

Saturday night holiday weekend dinner, son Alec, bach'ing it for the weekend, joined us for grilled Cowboy tomahawk beefsteaks and a duo of Napa Cabs. 

Linda prepared perfect Pittsburgh style bone-in ribeyes and I opened two diverse Napa cabs, a classic Grgich Rutherford and a Piazza Del Dotto. 

 Grgich Hills Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

As part of proper cellar management, consuming bottles that are at or nearing the end of their drinking window before they deteriorate, I pulled this 1998 vintage cab, the last of that vintage in our cellar, I believe. I've written often in these pages about the 1998 vintage that was a lackluster vintage overshadowed by the much hyped '97 and the follow on '99. Yet, for many years, the 98's were drinking very nicely, moreso than the much-heralded '97's that needed more time to open and reveal their true potential. And, they represented great values relative to their surrounding vintages. 

I have written in these pages before about Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, a legend in the wine world and Napa Valley. He gained international recognition at the celebrated 'Paris Tasting of 1976' known as the Judgement of Paris, the historic blind tasting by a panel of eminent French judges did a comparison tasted of notable French wines opposite selections from upstart California Napa Valley. When their scores were tallied, the French judges were shocked to learn they had chosen the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, crafted by Mike Grgich,  as the finest white wine in the world. The results stunned the international wine establishment and immediately earned Mike a reputation as one of the greatest winemakers in the world. The story chronicled in the book 'Judgement of Paris' and is told in a fantastic pop culture movie 'Bottle Shock'.

Thirty two years later, in 2008, 93 year Mike Grgich was was inducted into the Vintners Hall of Fame in honor of his many contributions to the wine industry. His hallmark is a sporting blue beret. My earlier post chronicled his whimsical 'Blue Beret' label designated Estate Napa Valley Chardonnay.

Alas, after two decades, this last '98 represents the end of the drinking window for this vintage, it will certainly diminish from here on. 

This bottle actually was holding up well, showing only slight diminution from age with the garnet color losing its luster and that Rutherford Dust layer starting to overtake the fruits slightly. 

The ageability of this vintage was diminished by the somewhat austere fruits with lack of firm structure or backbone. At this point the fruits were hanging on but moderate. 

Showing its age, the label was soiled, but the fill level, cork and foil of the bottle were near perfect for the age.

This is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.

Wine Spectator wrote about this label: "Well-balanced (for the vintage), austere and dry, with cedar, black cherry and green plum flavors that are appealing and complex. Turns tannic on the finish."

K&L, the respected and notable Bay Area wine merchant wrote, "the resulting flavors are a complex fusion of herbs, cherries and red currants. One of the riper 1998's we have tasted. Superb for the vintage!" 

Garnet colored with a ever-so-slight cloudy gray-brown hue starting to set in, medium bodied, balanced black cherry and plum fruits are starting to be overtaken by notes of cedar, wood, herbs and black tea with tannic acidity on the moderate finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=25700

https://www.grgich.com/ 

Piazza Del Dotto Napa Valley American Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

As with the bottle above, practicing cellar management, I pulled the oldest of the several vintages we hold of this label. 

We tasted and acquired this wine during our visit to Piazza Del Dotto during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2018 and the spectacular Del Dotto Delicacies Food and Wine Experience. We also tasted and acquired other variations of this bottling during our Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Tour Barrel Tasting during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017.

In contrast to the aged 1998 release above, this label is probably drinking at the apex of its drinking window now. I selected this as a perfect pairing with our grilled steak dinner and it proved to be right on!

Winemaker notes - Ripe red plum and baked almonds on the nose lead to oak-influenced clove and sweet tobacco with subtle layers of Mexican chocolate.  The first impressions on the palate burst with black cherry, black raspberries, stewed strawberries and rhubarb with a touch of pink peppercorns and kiss of oak with a long, clean finish.  

As I have written in previous blogposts, this American Oak bottling is part of a series where Del Dotto feature specific oaks in several of their bottlings including their classic Connoisseur Series.

This was an incredible perfect pairing with the the grilled steaks. 

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, well balanced, bright vibrant integrated black raspberry and blackberry fruits, polished and elegant accents of clove spice, tobacco leaf and hints of bitter dark mocha and sweet oak turning to tangy smooth tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2258002

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/07/del-dotto-piazza-delicacies-food-and.html

www.deldottovineyards.com/visit/piazza

@DelDottoWine