Day in Chicago - Art Institute - Chez Joël French Bistro

Day in Chicago - Art Institute - Chez Joël Authentic French Bistro Cuisine with High QPR Wine Selections

Sister Pat and niece Lauren visited for the weekend and we did one of our favorite Chicago excursions, the magnificent Art Institute of Chicago (AIC), followed by dinner at Chez Joël Authentic French Bistro. I've posted notes about Chez Joël in these pages going back ten years or more.

Photo from earlier visit

We've been members of the Art Institute of Chicago (AIC) for more than three decades and make a point to frequently take advantage of one of the crown jewels of Chicago including seeing all the major exhibits. AIC was named the best Museum in the World and Chicago’s #1 attraction by TripAdvisor, the only museum in the world to be top-ranked by TripAdvisor four years in a row. It has the greatest Impressionist collection outside Paris and contemporary masterpieces in the spectacular Modern Wing.

I never tire of seeing my favorites from the extensive collections including many iconic works - my absolute favorite Night Hawks by Edward Hopper,  A Sunday on the Island of La Grande Jatte by Georges Seurat that covers an entire gallery wall, Claude Monet's Water Lillies, ‘Paris Street; Rainy Day’ by Gustave Caillebotte, 65 works by Pierre August Renoir, Nightlife by Archibald John Motley Jr., and even some works by Frank Lloyd Wright for whom I'm a docent interpreter and give tours at the FLW Home & Studio and so many more!

This was the last weekend to see the Salvador Dali special exhibit at the Art Institute, and, not surprisingly, it was well attended with large crowds and long lines. Fortunately, the Van Gogh special exhibit also recently opened and we were able to see that as well. It is a detailed learned exhibit and definitely warrants a return trip for a more in-depth focused visit. 

The "Salvador Dalí: The Image Disappears Exhibit", the first devoted to the Spanish Surrealist at the Art Institute, featured more than 30 paintings, drawings, photos, and surrealist objects, as well as a selection of printed matter, books, and artists ephemera. The exhibit cover the pivotal decade of the 1930s when Salvador Dalí emerged as the inventor of his own personal brand of Surrealism, "considering Dalí’s work in light of two defining, if contradictory, impulses: an immense desire for visibility and the urge to disappear".

The "Van Gogh and the Avant-Garde: The Modern Landscape" exhibit runs through the summer until September. It covers the period between 1882 and 1890 and actually features five artists; Vincent van Gogh, along with Georges Seurat, Paul Signac, Emile Bernard, and Charles Angrand and their work in the villages on the fringes of Paris. AIC text - "Unlike the earlier Impressionists, who in the previous decade had spent significant time in suburban locations further from the city, this next generation of ambitious artists preferred the northwestern suburbs around Asnières. This area along the Seine River had long been a popular spot for recreation and relaxation but was becoming increasingly populated with coal, gas, and manufacturing facilities in the last decades of the 19th century. And while its industrial development was an unappealing aspect to many, these artists found in the changing physical and social landscape a fresh and rich source of creativity, as Van Gogh’s letter indicates."

The exhibit featured more than 75 paintings and drawings from this "intensely creative period" — many from private collections and rarely publicly displayed — brought together for this insightful presentation. Among them are 25 works by Van Gogh, including paintings from all three triptychs that he executed in these suburbs. It was fun to see one of the major works was loaned to the exhibition by son Ryan's boss's boss's ultimate boss, Larry Ellison, Chairman and Founder of Oracle.

https://www.artic.edu/exhibitions/9639/van-gogh-and-the-avant-garde-the-modern-landscape

https://www.artic.edu/exhibitions/9713/salvador-dali-the-image-disappears

From the AIC we went to Little Italy, Taylor Street for dinner.

As we have written often before in these pages, Chez Joël is one of our favorite eateries in the City (Chicago). As usual the service was outstanding, food was delectable and the price was agreeable.

Chez Joël located on Taylor Street in what is still referred to as 'Little Italy' is quaint, artsy, intimate, tasteful, comfortable,  authentic yet unpretentious in its French Bistro setting and faire. We had a perfect lat summer evening sitting outside in the adjacent courtyard.

I had the Filet Mignon with pomme puree', Linda and Pat shared/split the daily special pan seared White Fish, and Lauren had the Coq au vin  (shown in order, below).

As usual, we started with the Pâté de deux Sortes Duck Liver Pâté and the Fromage de Brie Chaud, warm Brie Cheese with Honey, Caramelized Granny Smith Apples, Apricot, Garlic, Pistachio & Toast.

And as with previous visits, we had from the winelist one of our favorite labels, the Crozes Hermitage Northern Rhone Syrah, as recounted in my previous blogpost from last fall.

Marlène & Nicolas Chevalier Les Voleyses Crozes Hermitage 2020

Once part of the cave co-operative at Tain-Hermitage, since 2008 the family vineyards of Domaine Chevalier are gradually being reclaimed by the brother and sister team of Nicolas and Marlène Chevalier. Nicolas tends the vineyards and crafts each cuvee, while Marlène handles all of the sales and marketing for Domaine Chevalier.

Following his formal agricultural studies in France, Nicolas spent four years honing his winemaking skills on estates in Australia, California and South Africa. After completing studies in agronomy and enology in France, he headed to South Australia’s Clare Valley where he mastered various techniques for fermenting Shiraz (Syrah). He then worked with Kendall Jackson in California crafting white winemaking skills. To further his post-graduate wine studies, he spent 2002 in South Africa working at legendary three-hundred-year-old Boschendal estate in Stellenbosch, South Africa, a winery renowned for its superb Syrah-based wines.

Marlène and Nicolas Chevalier farm three small vineyards at their meticulously tended family property comprising 3 1/2 acres in Crozes-Hermitage from which they produce on average 500 cases of red and white Rhône wines in tiny lots which are highly allocated. Their wines are found only in a couple of importer direct wine clubs and renowned restaurants in North American.

This is from Crozes, the village adjacent the more prestigious appellation that shares part of its name, but operates in Hermitage’s shadow. The Crozes-Hermitage appellation area extends about 10 miles (16 km) both north and south of Tain and Hermitage itself and is known to produce more approachable wines than its higher profile neighbor. By 2017, almost 4,200 acres (1,700 ha) of vines had been planted among the local cherry and apricot orchards. Unlike Hermitage, land in Crozes-Hermitage is relatively affordable and available providing an opportunity for enthusiastic newcomers, as well as a number of local growers, who want to bottle the fruit of their own labors, rather than send their production to the Cave de Tain co-op, the case of this wine too.  

Nicolas works with several distinct parcels for their wines: La Motte, Marius, Petite Pend, Les Pends and namesake source for this label, Les Voleyses. These vineyards have clay and limestone soils with excellent exposure, known to produce ripe, high quality grapes with great aromatic character and freshness. The Domaine Chevalier site has been producing grapes for notable wines gaining high praise and critical acclaim for more than three centuries.

Like the 2018 vintage we tasted earlier, the 2020 vintage was also top rated in the Northern Rhône. This represents a great value, high QPR (quality price ratio) wine.

 

Importer notes for the 2018 release: The 2018 Domaine Chevalier Les Voleyses Crozes-Hermitage sports a brilliant purple robe and a captivating aroma redolent with the scents of blackberry, plum, violets, and exotic spices. Sensuous and seductive in the mouth, the 2018 Les Voleyses graces the palate with a silky texture and pure floral, fruit, and forest floor flavors that have aptly been described as hedonism in a glass. Moreover, the 2018 Domaine Chevalier Les Voleyses is juicy and harmonious to the finish, as it makes an exit with joyful panache.

 

The Voleyses Cuvée is 100% Syrah made from younger vine fruit and aged in stainless steel.

 

Tonight's tasting was totally consistent with our earlier experiences with this label.

Deep inky purple colored medium-full bodied, full round layers of blackberry and plum fruits, notes of black tea, spice and leather overtake the fruits, turning to soft chewy textured tannins on a medium finish. 

RM 91 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4133858

The 2018 release - https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3495672
Earlier vintage release blogpost - https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/12/intimate-dinner-suzettes-creperie.html

As usual and to be expected at Chez Joel, a wonderful, relaxing fun wine and dine evening.

http://chezjoelbistro.com/

 

 

Leña Brava Restaurant Chicago

Leña Brava Restaurant Chicago

We held a celebration dinner recognizing our team that contributed to the successful business transaction resulting in the sale of our company. In attendance were the 'deal' team from our company and our corporate finance investment banking advisors.

The dinner was held at Leña Brava Restaurant in the vibrant Randolph Street Restaurant Row in Chicago’s West Loop neighborhood. 

The recent renaissance has transformed the historic Fulton market meat packing and food processing and distribution area into one of the country's most vibrant commercial centers with the development of corporate headquarters, tech industry, hotels, bars, restaurants, and retail that include McDonald's world headquarters, Google, Mondelez, Herman Miller and more.

Leña Brava was created to celebrate classic Mexican dishes cooked over hardwood fire featuring seafood-heavy cuisine of Mexico’s Baja coast, with an all ”ferocious firewood” kitchen. Interesting too, given my focus on wine in these pages, is the feature of Mexican wines on their winelist, which I admit, I had never experienced before. 

We were seated in a private dining room with views of the cityscape, and dinner featured a bespoke menu for the evening.  Prior to dinner was an endless procession of delectable hors d'oeuvres and specialty drinks.

Our wine pairings for the evening including a White and a Red from the limited, focused winelist, from producer Casa Magoni, sourced from Valle de Guadalupe, on the Baja Peninsula, (B.C. - Baja California), Mexico. 

Both wines exceeded my expectations, neither the selection of varietals nor their profiles being what one would expect coming from what I would consider a hot climate. Apparently, the coastal effects, and they say the elevation, temper the terroir to produce such wines.  

The Valle de Guadalupe (Guadalupe Valley) is an area of Ensenada Municipality, Baja California, Mexico that is an increasingly popular tourist destination for wine and Baja Med cuisine. It is located 20 kilometres (12 mi) north of the City of Ensenada and 113 kilometres (70 mi) southeast of the border crossing from San Diego to Tijuana.

The Valle de Guadalupe's elevation and microclimate make it ideal for growing Vitis vinifera, cultivated grapes, suited for winemaking. As of 2018, there were over 100 wineries along the Valle's Ruta del Vino (Wine Route). Collectively, they account for 70% of all Mexico's wines.

The varieties of grapes grown to produce red wine in the Baja California region are Cabernet Sauvignon, Ruby Cabernet, Zinfandel Grenache and Mission. The grapes for white wines are Chenin Blanc, Palomino, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Saint Emilion and Malaga. 

The wines were appropriate pairings to complement the beef, cheese, and seafood selections. 

Our host arranged for a prepared menu flight of three courses with two selections each. 

The starter course consisted of Charred Queso Fresco - Garlicky green mojo, Picoline olives, parsley and lime served with coal-fired pan de campo.

The other starter course may have been the best selection of the entire evening, incredible, delicious, artfully prepared Wood-Fired Oysters - east coast oysters, preserved lemon-anchovy butter and chipotle. They were as delectable and unique as they were picturesque.

The two main courses were a fish and a beef dish - Wild Alaskan Black Cod marinated in red chile, roasted chayote, fiery arbol salsa and Wood-oven braised beef short ribs, silky tamal pudding, guajillo reduction, parsley & white onion salad.

The two main dishes were accompanied by two side dishes: Mexican Rice and Fingerling Potatoes.

The two wines were from the same producer, Casa Magoni - both from the same region, Valle de Guadalupe in Baja, California, Mexico.

Winemaker/producer Camillo Magoni, born in Valtellina, Italy, Magoni moved to Baja California in 1965, after studying viticulture and enology in Alba. He worked for almost fifty years at regional producer L.A. Cetto winery, another label offered on the Leña Brava limited, focused wine list.

Magoni is credited for helping establish the transformation of Baja California’s wine industry. Starting in the 1960s, he bought vineyards and experimented with many varieties, growing over a hundred of them seeking the right varietal best suited for the terroir of the area - soil, climate, exposure - all the elements that contribute to the character and profile of the sense of place and its impact on the resulting wines. He experimented with Chardonnay, Fiano, Viognier, Arneis, Moschofilero, Assyrtiko, Montepulciano, Aglianico, Grenache, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, many of them field blends. 

Over the years, he sold his grapes to established wineries, and helped them move away from high alcohol reds while developing white wines. In 2012, faced with a surplus of grapes, he decided to start making his own wine. 

Like his experimentation in grapes, he also explored crafting techniques best suited for the local wines, trying new things, making many unique cuvées and trial batches. He introduced his Casa Magoni wines in 2016, and has become recognized as one of the iconic personalities of Baja California viticulture and signature wines.

Production of Casa Magoni has grown to total production approaching 21,000 cases per year.

Casa Magoni, Manaz, Vino Blanco, (Viognier, Fiano), Valle de Guadalupe, B.C., Mexico 2021

This white blend is 80% Viognier and 20% Fiano sourced from the “Campo Manaz” vineyard, on the east side of Guadalupe Valley, which lends the wine its name.

One cellartracker writes "A very nice blend combining soft, peachy fruit from Viognier with the more earthy, nutty, tart characteristics of Fiano."

Winemaker's notes: "A pale and luminous yellow with a light green hue. Fresh and elegant with white flower and mellow aromas. Citric notes like lime and grapefruit mixed with tropical fruits like pineapple and apricot are perceived. Fresh in mouth. Citric and floral notes are highlighted. Nice and firm acidity with a long and elegant finish."

Light grayish straw colored, medium light bodied, crisp, bright acidity with slightly tart stone fruits, mineral and notes of tangy citrus and tropical fruits.  

RM 87 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4430936

 And for the red ....

Casa Magoni, Sangiovese/Cabernet, Valle de Guadalupe, B.C., Mexico 2021 

This is an imaginative unique blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, also sourced totally from the Valle de Guadalupe, Baja, México.  

Winemaker's Tasting Notes: "A blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. These two varieties have been grown in the Guadalupe Valley for decades, as the climate and terroir is well-suited to them. Each variety is harvested and fermented separately. The vinification is done in stainless steel tanks to preserve the freshness of the fruit. The wine is bottled before the following harvest season.'

"Aromas of cherries and red raspberries, with black fruits notes in the background. Well-integrated tannins, more cherry and plum, and a hint of black tea on the finish. 13% alcohol."

Wine pundit Ian Blackburn who reviews Mexican wines awarded this release 90 Points. He wrote, "Freshness, purity and drinkability are expressed wonderfully in this value option. Color 13/15 (soft and pretty), Aroma 22/25 (fresh fruit, nice varietal expression), Body 22/25 (satisfying and indulgent), Overall 33/35 = 90 points."

Ruby colored, medium plus bodied, bright expressive dark berry and plum fruits with spice, tobacco and cedar sprites with tangy acidity and moderate tannins on a lingering finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4297199

The closing dessert course was Coconut Tres Leches Cake - Sponge cake soaked in coconut milk with toasted coconut and strawberry compote. 

Like all the dishes, this exceeded my expectations and was better than could be imagined, or discerned from the description which did not do it justice. 

Thanks to our hosts, and the Leña Brava team for a delightful evening and delectable dinner. 

https://www.lenabrava.com/

https://twitter.com/LenaChicago

 

Magnificent Dinner at Alinea Kitchen Table

Magnificent Dinner at Michelin 3-Star Alinea Kitchen Table in Chicago

When we closed the business transaction, selling the company and bringing to an end my tenure as CEO, and the next to latest chapter of my storied career in enterprise software, I reserved the Kitchen Table at legendary 3 Michelin Star Alinea Restaurant in Chicago for a celebration dinner. 

Linda and I were joined by son Ryan and d-in-law Michelle, daughter Erin, while husband, son-in-law Johnny was traveling with their two sons to pick up a new car out of state, and son Alec, while d-in-law Viviana was in Connecticut for another special family event. 

Alinea is the only Michelin 3-Star restaurant in the midwest and founder, luminary chef Grant Achatz actually has four (stars) taking into account another star for his second restaurant, Next. 

Achatz, recognized for his contributions to 'molecular gastronomy' or progressive cuisine was featured on a Netflix episode of The Chef's Table.

Achatz' culinary career started working in his parents' diner restaurant in St. Clair, Michigan as a teenager before studying at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. Following graduation in 1994, Achatz landed a position at iconic Charlie Trotter's in Chicago, then moved on to Thomas Keller's highly acclaimed The French Laundry, in Yountville, Napa Valley, California. There he eventually rose to the position of sous chef. 

Achatz moved to Chicago in 2001 to become Executive Chef at Mobile four-star Trio in suburban Evanston, earning a coveted fifth star from Mobil, becoming one of just 13 restaurants so honored at the time.

Achatz opened Alinea in 2005, which has become universally recognized for its innovative approach to modern cuisine, having been named the Best Restaurant in the World by Elite Traveler, the Best Restaurant in North America by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and the Best Restaurant in the U.S. by Gourmet and Business Insider. 

Alinea is one of only 14 restaurants in the U.S. to earn the coveted Michelin 3-Star rating. It has also won James Beard Awards for Outstanding Restaurant in the U.S., Outstanding Service in the U.S., and Outstanding Chef in the U.S.

The Kitchen Table is Alinea's premier dining experience, so named as it is adjacent the working kitchen, seating just six, and with its proximity, actually provides incredible entertainment, dinner and a show, watching the choreography of the bee-hive of activity of the chef culinary crew.

The Kitchen Table View

Tonight's Kitchen Table Menu

The other Alinea dining experiences are The Gallery, which combines "fine dining with experimental moments," and The Salon, which offers "a multi-course tasting menu," and the most intimate offering. The three distinct experiences each offer rotating menus that are preset, and mix art, pop-culture and food. 

Its impossible to capture and describe the magnificent experience that is Alinea. Each of the ten dinner courses is an extravaganza of sensory overload, with the presentation, the service, the accompanying music, the accompanying wine pairing, and of course, the food, with its distinctive presentation and sensational explosion of tastes.

For our special dinner, we ordered the Alinea Wine Pairing, their top tier selection of wines matched to each dinner course. I've written often in these pages about the amplifying impact of properly pairing the right food and wine thereby accentuating the enjoyment and experience of each. There was no debate that to optimize the Alinea experience warranted opting for their premier wine pairing as well. 

It was tempting to select wines from their winelist, its thirty-seven pages featuring many of our favorite wines as well as bucket list wines that we've been wanting to try. In the end, experiencing the chef's selection of wine paired to each course was as much a part of the experience as either the wine or the food - not to be missed! 

Everything was spectacular - service, food, wine, presentation, ambiance, the pairing, the Alinea experience. A memorable experience not to be missed!

 The dinner courses and their associated wines:

Krug "Grande"
170Eme Edition
Champagne

Golden Osetra
Caviar, Caper, Lemon, Onion,
Egg, Brioche

Domaines Ott Chateau Romassan
Mourvedre Blend
Bandol Provence Rose'
2021

Trampoline Papillote
Rouille Turbot Bouillabaisse
Scallop Nicoise

Heads & Tails -
Shrimp w/ White Peppercorn
White Sesame & White Miso w/Coriander
Chili Bun

Chateau Musar
Bekaa Valley Lebanon
Obaidah & Merwah Blend 2014

 

Hot Potato - Cold Potato
Black Truffle & Parmesan

Potinet-Ampieu "Charmes"
Mersault 1Er Cru Burgundy
Chardonnay 2014

COLLAR
Cobia Collar with Mango, Pine,
Uni and Candy Cap Tofu -
Chateau d'YQuem Sauterne Bordeaux 2019

We then were lead into the kitchen to experience the intricate preparation and consumption of the next course, "Spiral", featuring Caramel Apple Pie with Pecan and melted Raclette cheese accompanied with a specially prepared smoked Texas Rye Whiskey Michigan Apple Cider Liquor Sour. 

 

And, when we returned to our table, the Alinea Kitchen Table has been transformed into an elegant dining setting, where upon we were served the remaining courses. 

Squab
Potpourri, Pear, Foie Gras, Angre-Doux

Sine Qua Non
"Esto No Es Una Salida"
Santa Rita Hills
Grenache

2009

Explosion
Black Truffle, Romaine, Parmesan

Somellier presenting
Chateau Pichon Baron
Pauillac Bordeaux
2009

"Chipped"
Waygu, Bechamel, Bresaola

 

Then, once again, the Alinea Kitchen Table was transformed for the final course. We adjusted our seating to the two sides of the table while the linens and table centerpieces were replaced with an large acrylic sheet that became the platform to showcase the preparation and presentation of the dessert course. 

Dessert Wine
D'Oliveiras
Boal Frasqueira Madera Port
1977
(Bottled 2022)

And finally - the famous Alinea helium filled taffy green apple sugar balloons ... 

https://www.alinearestaurant.com/

UGCB 2020 Vintage Release Tour Chicago 2023

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) North American 2020 Vintage Release Tour Chicago Preview Tasting 2023 

The UGC Bordeaux (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)), annual release tour visited Chicago this week unveiling/showcasing their 2020 vintage release wines. The Union is the association of 130 members of the top premier estates from the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations. 

This year's North American tour visited Toronto, New York, Washington DC, Chicago, LA , Seattle and San Francisco. 

As in previous years, members of our 'Pour Boys' wine group (left) helped conduct the event in Chicago. 

This year, after a Covid disrupted alternate site last year at Chicago Union Station Grand Hall, which actually was delayed to June, as in years past, returned to the Drake Hotel in the magnificent grand Gold Coast Ballroom (shown below). 

The Pour Boys serve as volunteers, working with the hosts Mike Wangbickler, Kat and the Balzac Communications team, and the UGCB Bordeaux events team of Chloe Morvan and Marie Damouseau.

We help prepare the room and the wines, checking in trade registrants, and standing in for producers who faced travel or other disruptions, presenting and pouring their wines. 

We start early in the day unpacking and distributing the wines, carefully setting up each wine station for the arrival of the producers' and their representatives for presenting and pouring the wine during the afternoon session.

Several times over the years, several producers or their representatives were delayed in travel or had other disruptions and we were called in to service to pour their wines, hence we earned our moniker, the 'Pour Boys'.  This was our fourteenth year working this gala annual event.

As usual, close to a hundred producers were represented at the event that was attended by over five hundred members of the trade, merchants, hospitality and media.

As is their custom in the third week of January, this annual roadshow is a marathon trek across North America by the producers and their representatives offering wine professionals and oenophiles the chance to meet the Bordeaux principles, winemakers and commercial directors. 

As I've written in previous years, we appreciate the investment in time and effort expended by the producers and their brand ambassadors to visit Chicago. It provides a wonderful opportunity to meet them firsthand and discuss their perspectives on their brand, approach to crafting their style, their history, businesses, and their vintages including, of course, the current release.

Overcast skies and early morning snow
through windows of Gold Coast Ballroom

As collectors and holders of a not-insignificant collection of Bordeaux wines dating back four decades, we Pour Boys hold as many as several dozen or more vintages of some of these labels. Meeting the owners, family members, producer / winemaker / representatives of these great Chateaux is a great privilege and offers a collector the chance to learn more about their investment and wines. 

As such, I tend to focus on and taste those wines that I know well and hold verticals (multiple vintages of the same label), of which my wine buddies and I have holdings.  Shown left, Chateau Lynch Bages and Ormes de Pez.  

The new Lynch Bages winery was under construction during our visit in 2019. It is now open and in production with this 2020 release being the first vintage produced in the new state of the art facility. 

Marking four centuries of history and the culmination of four years’ hard work, the 2020 vintage, the first in the renovated cellars is commemorated in a new label design for the vintage.

The new cellars and vat room, were designed by architect Chien Chung Pei to put emphasis on natural light, functionality and innovative technologies. As such a light iridescent shadow suggesting the new building is set on the architectural architecture, while the vintage is handwritten by Chien Chung Pei to commemorate the collaboration.

Despite the inclement weather, this years event was well attended to a full house (shown below).

Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts.

Grand Cru Bordeaux 2019 Vintage Release Tour Chicago

 UGCB 2017 Release Tour Chicago

After working to set up the event, register attendees and fill in for late arriving producers' due to travel delays, we were able to partake of the release tasting. 

As usual, we focused on the producers that we own and collect, with particular interest in those that we visited during our last trip to Bordeaux, as well as those we are targeting for our next or futures visits to the region.

The 2020 vintage is another great year for Bordeaux. The year opened with a mild start triggering an early bud break and even flowering thanks to a warm and dry month of May. Early June brought frequent rainfall which provided reserves of water during nearly two-month period of drought which began from mid-June, continuing well into August.

While it was very warm in the first part of the year, significantly warmer than 2018 or 2019, the heart of the summer however was marginally cooler than those excessively hot years. Taken as a whole, 2020 was as warm as the baking 2018, but not as intensely hot during the summer.

By early August, a welcome flurry of rain showers swept over the region breaking the prolonged period of drought before entering a dry and sunny September, which pushed the grapes into their final period of ripening. The earlier ripening Merlot benefited from the superb conditions of an early September harvest.

Mid-September light rain falls provided a final infusion of freshness to the Cabernet grapes. Only those with late ripening plots of Cabernet Sauvignon were left in a rush to bring them in in before the concerning forecast pertaining to storm Alex at the beginning of October.

The overall harvesting conditions of 2020 were also perfectly suited for the earlier ripening Merlot grape, while the Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon vines picked towards the end of September when warm winds imposed an evaporation effect on the grapes, resulting in unusually small berries with high levels of tannins. This translated into wines with deep colors, very concentrated flavors, and abundant, well-ripened, fine-grained tannins.

Anne-Francoise Quie Château Rauzan-Gassies
Lise Latrille - Château Prieure Lichine

For the white wines of 2020, the effects of the intense summer heat was compensated by the moisture reserves from the spring showers, producing dry whites which were less aromatic than in 2019, but with plenty of complexity and vibrant acidity. 

Although the grapes had reached a perfect level of ripeness by early September, the crucial rain showers did not arrive until October, which meant that only the most patient and diligent growers were rewarded by the small harvesting window with lower levels of wine produced.

James Suckling stated, “The 2020 vintage is another great year for Bordeaux, marking a rare trilogy of excellent vintages that produced wines at the same or very close quality level across the board from great named chateaux to lesser-known estates.” 

Jancis Robinson decreed, “Some stunning wines have been produced in 2020. On the Left Bank, they tend to be made by producers who can afford to be extremely selective in their final blends. There is a host of very successful wines on the Merlot-dominated Right Bank too. I have found myself falling back in love with St-Émilion” thanks to a continuing trend where “wines are so much fresher and more expressive than they used to be.” 

Jane Anson, reporting for Decanter says, ‘I would say 2018 is the most exuberant, 2020 the most structured and concentrated, while 2019 combines both and for me is the strongest of the three – certainly the most consistent.’ She also points out that ‘Yields overall were around 25% lower than in 2019, particularly with Cabernet Sauvignon but also Cabernet Franc in many cases."

Lilian Barton-Sartorius - Châteaux
Leoville and Langoa Barton

The event is sponsored by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, (UGCB) and is hosted and orchestrated by Balzac Communications, boutique wine marketing and communications consultancy firm in Napa, under the leadership of Mike Wangbickler.

As is the custom, the afternoon session is for the benefit of the press and trade and wine professionals, and in Chicago, the evening session in Chicago was hosted by merchant partner Binny's Beverage Depot, the Chicago-land wine superstore, offering tickets to the evening session to their valued customers and the public. This year, over four hundred collectors and vinophiles registered for the even. 

My perspective was that many of the wines showed better this year being more approachable at this early age with expressive forward and full fruits – especially the right bank Merlot based wines. 

One of my standout favorites of the tasting was the Chateau Canon which was especially approachable with bright vibrant fruits and a delicious sweetness.

From a branding perspective, in addition to Lynch Bages above, a couple other new special bottling or new labels emerged.

Château Léoville Poyferré presented a striking gold painted bottle with embossed molded emblem at the top commemorating their anniversary vintage. 2020 marks the symbolic centennial vintage for the Cuvelier Family, the centennial anniversary of their ownership of this Second Grand Cru Classé of Saint-Julien. 

And, for Sara Lecompte Cuvelier, fourth generation to be at the helm of the domain, this historic vintage is encapsulated in a special bottle to commemorate this significant milestone.

The unique bottle inlaid with gold, the details of which 'pay tribute to the enduring strength of Léoville Poyferré and its multifaceted terroir'. 

 

Our visit to and tour of Château Léoville Poyferré was one of the highlights of our visit to the region in 2019.

 

Another new branding approach is Château Siran who introduce in the post Covid era an artist label series featuring artwork that will be updated with each vintage release. 

The 2020 vintage marks the return of the family tradition of Château Siran’s illustrated labels with a collaboration with Federica Matta, a Franco-Chilean artist 'sensitive to the natural elements and the culture of wine'. 

Producers Sevrine and Edouard Miailhe wanted to memorialize the pandemic that paralysed the world in 2020. They chose a theme of an anti-Covid allegory recognizing the olfactory qualities together with the beneficial properties of red wines with the new label's bright colors, celebrating "the joy of living and the happiness of sharing". 

Charlotte Burckhard showing
new Chateau Siran label branding

'Pour Boys' Tom C, me, Ernie and Lyle with
UGCB Ambassadors Chloe Morvan and
Marie Damouseau

Anne-Francoise Quie Château Rauzan-Gassies
with enthusiastic patron

Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts.

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