Tuesday, July 13, 2021

Team Beef Tenderloin Dinner features 2002 Napa Bordeaux Varietals

Team Dinner features Beef Tenderloin 2002 Napa Bordeaux Varietal Wines

I hosted my leadership team for a team building planning session kick-off dinner at our house. Linda grilled beef tenderloin and sockeye salmon with baked sweet potatoes and Idaho potatoes, with haricot verts. We served a horizontal flight of Napa Valley Bordeaux varietals with the dinner, a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Cabernet Franc, and a Bordeaux Blend of all five, all from the same 2002 vintage.

As noted in my blogpost about the fun of serving from Big Bottles, tonight we served the Flora Springs Trilogy from Magnum.  

Prior to dinner we served a selection of artisan cheeses with a refreshing white Sauvignon Blanc, which also complimented the caprese salad course, and the salmon entree.

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2016

Prior to dinner we served a selection of artisan cheeses and a caprese salad accompanied by this Lede Sauvignon Blanc. 

As I've written numerous times in these pages, this is one of our favorite Sauvignon Blancs, one we keep on hand with each vintage release as one of our mainstay 'go-to' wines.

The primary vineyards and sources for Cliff Lede Napa Sauvignon Blanc are estate grown Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Musqué. Another vineyard located in eastern Rutherford has old vines planted to a heritage Musqué clone and Sémillon.

Two other old-vine vineyards, both in Calistoga, contribute to the blend, one planted to Sauvignon Blanc and the other to Sémillon. 

In many vintages, they also include grapes from a cooler climate vineyard on the east side of Napa, imparting vibrant acidity and finesse to the wine.

A vineyard in Chiles Valley, a small pocket in eastern Napa County, east of Napa Valley, adds complexity with old vines of Sauvignon Vert planted in 1947.

The Cliff Lede winery estate and vineyards with their picturesque sculpture gardens at Yountville Cross Road and Silverado Trail are one of our popular visits during our many trips to Napa Valley. We've had many memorable visits there with the most memorable, our private tour and tasting during our Napa Wine Experience 2009.

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2016

We hold nearly a half dozen vintages of this label and as part of cellar management, opted towards the oldest from 2016. It was still vibrant and refreshing and tasty at five years.

I wrote in a couple notes about this release that the peach sprites were more subdued or muted but tonight it resembled previous tastings where that was a highlight of the wine. Straw colored, light bodied, aromas of floral and apricot and flavors of peach predominate with tones of lychee, pear, apple, citrus and hints of lime with a crisp clean sharp tangy finish.

RM 90

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2616721 

Earlier tastings ...

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/03/cal-wine-flight-highlights-st-pats.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/10/cliff-lede-napa-valley-sauvignon-blanc.html

https://cliffledevineyards.com/

@CliffLedeWine 

Flora Springs 'Trilogy' Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2002

For the flight of Red Wines, we started with the most complex, a blend of all five Bordeaux varietals. Moreover, this was the most moderate and subdued wine, appropriately served first, before the more concentrated, bolder, bigger single varietals reds which would have overshadowed and overpowered this more delicate selection. 

We hold or have held over the years a dozen vintages of this label spanning three decades going back to the 1990, one of our favorite Napa Valley Bordeaux Blends. I chronicled this label in detail in a blogpost early last year

Tonight we served this from a larger format magnum. At nineteen years, this was still drinking quite nicely, still well within its acceptable drinking window, perhaps at its prime but not likely to improve any further with aging.

Tonight's tasting experience was similar to my notes from when I last wrote about this vintage release back in 2007 when I wrote, " Smooth, soft after an hour of settling, medium bodied but somewhat complex dark berry, black cherry, and a hint of essence of mocha on the medium finish." 

At that time, this release was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator, 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast, and 90 points by Wine & Spirits. 

This release of this popular label was not limited to just three varietals as usual, this Trilogy contained all five Bordeaux grapes in the blend.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, elegant and more subdued sophistication as opposed to bigger, more concentrated, bolder Napa Valley Cabernets, blackberry, black currant and black cherry fruits with notes of spice box, herbs, a hints of dark mocha with moderate soft tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=64904

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/09/2001-vintage-napa-cab-comparison.html

https://www.florasprings.com/our-legacy/flora-komes/

@FloraSprings

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2002

Colleague Ken was one of our guests tonight and he is a big fan of Del Dotto wines so I pulled this from the cellar for him. We're huge fans of Del Dotto, one of the larger producer holdings in our cellar. 

We've visited Del Dotto's several Napa Valley properties numerous times over the years dating back to their early years in the mid-nineties. Our most recent visits and tastings were highlights of our Napa trips - Del Dotto Estate Cave Tour and Tasting during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017. We then targeted the just opened Piazza Winery Delicacies Wine and Food Tasting Experience during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2018. It was the highlight of our entire Napa trip.

I remember obtaining this label back when Del Dotto were producng was one of, if not the first vintage releases of this varietal in Napa Valley. Del Dotto were one of the first producers to bottle Cabernet Franc as a standalone bottling, a varietal typically used as part of a Bordeaux Blend to add depth and breadth of spice and structure or character to the blend. This is a great wine to keep on hand for special pairing with food highlighting the distinctive characteristics of this varietal. 

Like the other two 2002's, this was still drinking quite nicely, still well within its acceptable drinking window, perhaps at its prime but not likely to improve any further with aging.

I recall I had to bargain to obtain more than a very few of the allocated bottles at the time. Of course, by itself its big, bold. forward and expressive. 

At our last tasting of this release, four years ago, I wrote, "At fifteen years, this is aging very nicely and still holding well within its drinking window. Consistent with earlier tasting notes, dark garnet color, full bodied, bright cedar, cinnamon spice, raspberry, and hint of mocha on a big, long silky smooth tannin finish."

RM 91 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19187

https://www.deldottovineyards.com/

@DelDottoWine

Robert Craig Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 

This was the WOTN - Wine of the Night, darker, bigger, bolder and more fruit forward than the others, perhaps reflecting Mountain fruit vs those from the Valley floor.
It was apparent why Robert Craig considered his favorite of his five Napa Valley Cabernets (Mt Veeder, Spring Mountain District, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley Mt George in some vintages. 
 
As the biggest wine, it was appropriately served last, so as not to overpower the 'lesser' more delicate,  complex wines.

We've written throughout these pages of our Robert Craig cellar collection, one of our largest holdings, and our numerous visits to the estate winery and wonderful memories of hosted dinners with, and Tribute to the late Robert Craig.

This is a blend of 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. 
 
Robert Parker gave this 90 points, Wine Enthusiast 91 points, and Vinfolio 94.
 
Dark inky garnet colored, full bodied, rich concentrated, structured black berry and black raspberry fruits integrated with notes of cassis, clove spice, currant and licorice, turning to silky smooth  finely textured, supple tannins on the supple finish.
 
RM 92 points.  
 

https://mcnees.org/winesite/labels/labels_California/lbl_CA_Robert_Craig_Mt_Veeder_cab_2002_remc.jpg 
 
 
@RobertCraigWine

After dinner Linda served grilled peaches and Tuxedo Chocolate cake with fresh berries. With the dessert court we opened this unique limited release Augusta Missouri Port.

Mt Pleasant Augusta Appellation Missouri Vintage Port 1988

For a dessert wine, I pulled from the cellar this label from the State of Missouri in light of the irony, that two of our guests tonight, colleagues Stacy and Kevin, are both from the area. Kevin actually knows this producer and has visited the winery on numerous occasions. 

We discovered and acquired this wine during a visit to Mount Pleasant Vineyards in Augusta, Missouri on our way to a Colorado ski trip thirty years ago shortly after its release. Interesting, amazingly, the Augusta Appellation AVA (American Viticultural Area) was the first government-appointed wine-growing district in the United States. 

We've held this thirty-three year old 1988 vintage release in our cellar since then, thinking we'd one day consume it with friends celebrating a 1988 anniversary or birthyear of one of their kids. That occasion never came, but tonight, it served its purpose commemorating the regional home of two of our guests.

Ironically, after thirty years, this producer winery was recently in the news as it was acquired by the Hoffmann Family of Companies, their sixth Missouri vineyard, adding to the 700 + acres that they already own in the area.

Mount Pleasant Vineyards is the oldest winery in the Missouri Augusta Appellation, established in 1859 with buildings dating back to the 1820’s, It was originally founded by the Muench brothers who built the first cellar in 1881, which is still used today to age Mount Pleasant’s estate-bottled wines including this award-winning Augusta Port. Their 1986 Vintage Port was the only Missouri wine to ever take a gold medal at the International Wine and Spirit Awards in London. 

The winery was closed and vineyards destroyed during prohibition. 

In 1966, it was revived when Lucian Dressel and his wife Eva purchased the property and Mount Pleasant was reopened as a winery. They replanted the vineyards with self-rooted vines and classic grafted European varieties, turning Mount Pleasant into a destination.

In 1980, Augusta was chosen to be the first government-appointed wine-growing district. The first officially designated American Viticultural Area (AVA) became known as the Augusta Appellation.

Keeping the winery in the Dressel family, Chuck Dressel’s family purchased Mount Pleasant from their uncle, Lucian Dressel, in 1992, and then, earlier this year in 2021, it was purchased and is being restored by the Hoffmann Family of Companies to it’s original colors and prestige.

Today, the Augusta estate grows nine grape varieties on 125 acres overlooking the Missouri River Valley.

Tonight, at thirty-three years, while this was past its prime, it was still within it acceptable drinking window, but nearing the end and time to drink. The color was garnet colored, albeit somewhat opaque as it was taking a bit of gray cloudiness, berry fruits with notes of raisin, dark mocha chocolate, hints of cassis, roasted nuts and bit of smoke and creosote on the finish. 

RM 85 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=616788

https://twitter.com/MtPleasantWine

@MtPleasantWine

 


 

 

 

 

 



Friday, July 9, 2021

Italia Vino WBTG at Angeli's Trattoria

Italia Vino WBTG at Angeli's Trattoria

We dined at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria for a casual relaxing Friday night dinner. Typically I would take a bottle BYOB from our extensive cellar collection for such a meal. Tonight, I planned to try the Angeli's WBTG (Wines By The Glass) offerings to accompany our meal. With just two of us, and expecting light dinner and a simple glass of wine with dinner, coupled with the probability of Linda seeking a white and me selecting a red, we opted for the BTG offerings. 

Linda selected the Ahi Tuna and I had the Portabello Mushroom Raviol with its brown sauce as a pairing I enjoy with Red Wine. 

From the winelist Linda selected an Italian Chardonnary, Mezzacorona from Trentino, Italy.

Mezzacorona Chardonnay DOC 2018

This Chardonnay is from the Mezzacorona estate, located in the foothills of the Italian Dolomite mountains in the Italian Alps in the valley carved by the Adige River. 

Mezzacorona has been producing wine from the their vineyards since 1904. They planted varietals in the zones best tailored to the needs of each varietal, to nurture the aromas and flavour of their terroir. Today, with state-of-the-art facilities and modern winemaking techniques, Mezzacorona produces 100% single varietal wines that represent the elegance and crispiness typical of the Italian Dolomites.

Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay are most predominant in the Dolomites, well known for their floral tones, exotic fruit, ripe aromas and silky smoothness on the palate. Mezzacorona is the largest Italian estate producer of these two varietals.

Mezzacorona grows its vines using mainly the traditional "Trentina pergola" which has evolved from years of traditions and research and their vineyards are easily recognisable as the pergolas bestow a scenic ondulating "wave" pattern on the landscape. 

Mezzacorona Chardonnay is cultivated on the highest hillside vines of Trentino where the vines benefit from optimum sunlight and cool refreshing night air which enhance the crispness of the fruits.  

Straw colored, light medium bodied, this high QPR easy drinking Chardonnay shows subtle flavors of peach, nectarine, pear and spice. 
 
RM 87 points. 
 
https://www.mezzacorona.it/

Throughout my dinner, I selected two Italian red wines by the glass - WBTG from the winelist. I was seeking Italian varietal wines to match the cuisine, the first 100% Sangiovese, the second Barbera.

Castelluccio Le More Sangiovese di Romagna 2019

This is produced by renowned oenologist Vittorio Fiore from the Castelluccio estate that dates back to the 1970s. Vittorio Fiore became the consulting winemaker in the 1980s and purchased the majority of shares in the property in 1999.

Castelluccio is nestled in the Modigliana Hills, between the two towns of Faenza and Forlì, at an altitude range of 750 - 1500 feet above sea level. The territory is known as Emilia Romagna and was part of Tuscany until the 1930s. 

The Castelluccio property represents the characteristics of “Romagna,” an ideal viticulture location near both the Adriatic Sea and the Apennine Mountains, recognized as a micro-zone best suited for Sangiovese di Romagna. It is the only DOC named after the ubiquitous grape. 

The wines compares with the Sangiovese grapes being grown in areas of Tuscany just on the other side of the Apennines Mountain. 

The total Castelluccio property covers approximately 150 acres, with 36 acres of vineyards and 6 acres with olive trees. The soil is compact layered marl and limestone, the location is composed of micro-areas called “ronchi”, referring to the rock formations that protrude from the mountain side, ideal for growing high quality of grapes. The property grows Sangiovese di Romagna, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc , the main grape varieties, the remainder in the native Sangiovese di Romagna,  indigenous and the best expression of the character of the terroir.

This is 100% Sangiovese from the estate vineyards Ronco Casone and Ronco del Vento planted from 1975-2003. The first vintage of this wine was in 1991. Total production of this wine is 60,000 bottles per year.

"Le More" refers to the blackberry character of this deep and lively Sangiovese di Romagna. The grapes are harvested from the end of September to mid-October, then fermented and aged in stainless steel in order to retain the fresh and fruity character of the wine.

Winemaker notes: "Deep ruby red with notes of blackberries, raspberries and other red fruits. The wine is well structured with good acidity and a pleasantly lingering finish."

Good QPR - Quality Price Ratio in this simple sipper that was a nice pairing with the brown sauce of my Portabella Mushroom Ravioli. 

RM 86 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3819448

 I then moved to a slightly 'bigger' wine in this progressive tasting.

Pertinace, Barbera D'Alba 2019

This is from the Pertinace winery in Piemonte, composed of 100% hand-harvested Barbera grapes grown in the Barbera d'Asti DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). The warm, hilly region in the Piedmont region in Northern Italy is known for Barbera, the hardy staple grape  accounting for around 55% of the wine produced in that region. 

Barbera is the 3rd most widely planted grape in Italy. It is a tough, non-fussy grape, known to be flexible in its acclimation to different regions. It's typically a deep ruby color with low tannin and bracing, high acidity.

Barbera is the wine of the working people in the region that it grows. It is less “respected” than the more highly acclaimed Nebbiolo, and is therefore shunted into slightly less-desirable locations, though it has legions of dedicated patrons.

Unlike many of the other red grapes in the Piedmont, Barbera has a relatively long hang time on the vine and that imparts a lot of rich, dense flavors to the wine.

Pertinace Barbera  is rich, complex and superbly balanced with inviting notes of blackberry, plum and a hint of spice that builds to a long, elegant finish - Cesare Barbero, Winemaker. "A generous, dry red wine that is fruity and sapid, made with the best grapes from some of our oldest vineyards. A very well-structured wine with a wealth of aromas and flavors that make it versatile enough to be drunk throughout the meal, it goes very well with cold cuts, first courses, white meats and cheeses."   

Another nice QPR casual sipper, this was dark ruby colored, medium full bodied, dark and red berries accented by spice, vanilla and hints of red licorice with pronounced acidity turning to notes of oak and vanilla on the long, dry lingering finish. 

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3390230

 

 

Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservé 2007

Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservé 2007

I finished of the remains of another Chateauneuf-Du-Pape from the cooler and enjoyed it so much, I opted to open another CDP with leftover beefsteak. My mood for this appellation was bolstered by memories of our trip to the region, stirred by having a limited release premium bottle Chateau La Nerthe at dinner the other evening, and the (very) late, delayed posting of one of our events during that trip. Just yesterday I finally posted a note about our lunch in Bedarrides Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

This wine was rated 92 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Jeb Dunnuck, Wine Spectator and Vinous - a rare occasion of absolute concensus amongst four leading wine critics.  

It is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Cinsault CDP varietals.

Consistent with my last tasting of this wine going on just two years ago, at fourteen years, this 2007 vintage release may be at the apex of its drinking profile and window. The fill level, label and cork were perfect.

Classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape profile and characteristics, minus the black pepper notes which are suppressed and replaced by notes of lavender and floral.

Deep, dark ruby/purple colored, medium to full-bodied, black berry and black currant fruits with licorice, black tea, notes of vanilla bean, roasted herb, forest floor and meaty aromas with smooth tangy black cherry notes, licorice and smoky minerals lingering on a moderate tannin laced finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=634331

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/09/roger-sabon-chateauneuf-du-pape-cuvee.html


Sunday, July 4, 2021

Gala Holiday Family Dinner - BBQ and Fine Wines

 Gala Holiday Family Dinner - BBQ and some extraordinary Fine Wines

The family gathered at son Ryan's for a gala 4th of July holiday celebration featuring BBQ, a selection of craft beers and fine wines and holiday fireworks. Son Ryan carefully selected and smoked and grilled four racks of ribs. We brought four side dishes from Sharko's BBQ - baked beans, cole slaw, creamed spinach and mac and cheese. 

For pairing with the BBQ we assembled a flight of spectacular wines: I brought a special birthyear vintage bottle of Penfolds Grange Aussie Shiraz,  Ryan opened from his cellar a Guigal Côte-Rôtie and Alec brought a Château Pape Clément Bordeaux. 

Prior to dinner we had a selection of chips and dips. I brought a bottle of Rose' that Ryan, Linda and I discovered and acquired at the producer during our visit to the Long Shadows Cellars hospitaly center and tasting room in Woodinville. I also brought a special bottle of birthyear vintage Charles Heidseick vintage champagne.

Ryan prepared incredible BBQ ribs with hand crafted rub, smoked for six hours in home trimmed applewood, then grilled. 



 Erin prepared a festive artfully decorated American Flag cheesecake with blueberries and red raspberries and strawberries. 


 With the appetizers, snacks and cheesecake we opened a celebratory Charles Heidseick 1990 birthyear vintage champagne and a Rose'.

 To celebrate the holiday, Sean put on a fireworks display for the kids. 

Long Shadows Wineries Julia's Dazzle Pinot Gris Columbia Valley Rosé 2017

We discovered, tasted and acquired this wine while visiting the Long Shadows Cellars hospitaly center and tasting room in Woodinville, WA during our  Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour

We normally don't drink Pinot Gris or Rose' wines but were captivated by this and found it a unique label for our cellar, perfect for as occasion such as today, especially since Ryan was with us when we discovered this label. 

This is from the Long Shadows collection from vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills appellation of the Columbia River Valley in Central Washington State. 

This is produced and bottled independent of Long Shadows, owner producer Allen Shoup tasked  winemaker Gilles Nicault to craft a dry rosé to share with family and friends. This result, "Dazzle" was an instant hit. The wine quickly affirmed Shoup’s long-held belief that Americans would one day develop an affinity for this food-friendly wine, particularly perfect on a warm summer afternoon.

Gilles set aside a special block of Pinot Grigio and gave it extended time on the vine to develop a bright tint through slow fermentation, then added 2% Sangiovese to the blend for color. Named after Allen’s granddaughter, Julia's Dazzle is light pink in color and offers aromas of strawberry and orange peel. It is a dry style but with sweet fruit flavors and clean sharp acidity creating a light and refreshing finish.

Winemaker's notes: "Fresh and lively with bright aromas and flavors of ripe strawberries and melon complemented by a racy acidity that lingers across a clean, dry finish." 

Charles Heidsieck Brut Millésimé Champagne 1990

Sharing and enjoying this bottle recently, and again tonight with son Alec and the rest of the family, was especially memorable as he was with us when we visited the Champagne wine region in northeast France back in 2006.

This vintage release was awarded 97 points from Wine Spectator and 94 points from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. 

As written in the recent tasting blogpost, this was a delightful surprise showing and drinking well, meeting all my expectations for this bottle. I was a bit concerned when upon opening and releasing the cork under pressure, the seeming pressure and resulting 'pop' were less than expected. Never-the-less, as hoped, the foil, cork, label, fill level and resulting wine were all ideal, showing little sign of diminution from aging. 

Amazing, impressive with life still left in this 31 year old vintage Champagne. 

The color was dark gold colored with intense, complex, dry, finely integrated layers of zesty citrus fruits accented by notes of roasted almonds and paine grille with hints of fresh dough, smoke, and pineapple with a long bright vibrant finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2894

https://charlesheidsieck.com/en

@CHChampagne 

 https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/06/fathers-day-grilled-steak-wine-dinner.html

The wine flight also included the remains of the St Emilion Bordeaux L'Arossee we had left over from the previous evening dinner

E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Château d'Ampuis 2008

The Guigal domain was founded in 1946 by Etienne Guigal in the ancient historic village of Ampuis, home of the legendary wines of the Côte-Rôtie. Some of the historic vineyards are over 2400 years old, bordered by small terraced walls dating back to the Roman period. Etienne Guigal arrived in the region in 1923 at the age of 14 and produced over 67 vintages of wine over his storied career. 

Guigal handed over the reins to his young son Marcel Guigal in 1961 when he was afflicted by an illness that left him blind. Over the years, Marcel expanded the Guigal brand and holdings buying out Vidal-Fleury in 1984, the Jean-Louis Grippat estate in Saint-Joseph and Hermitage in 2000, and Domaine de Vallouit in Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage.

In the cellars of the Guigal estate in Ampuis, they produce wines from the great appellations of the northern Rhône Valley: Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. They also expanded to produce wines from appellations of the Southern Rhône, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Tavel and Côtes-du-Rhône, which are also aged in the Ampuis cellars.

Winemaker notes for this label: "The hallmark of Chateau d'Ampuis is an unbelievably seductive perfume full of sweet red fruits, black fruits and spices, and an elegance despite the intense concentration of fruit. Chateau d'Ampuis defines what a great wine should be with its beautiful balance, complexity and length."

This was awarded 93 points by Wine Enthusiast who wrote, "In this difficult vintage, Guigal's Chateau Ampuis bottling shines. The kinky nose features exotic notes of celery seed, cracked pepper, hickory smoke and mixed berries, while in the mouth the wine shows ample fullness and intensity without losing any of the silky character that makes Cote Rôtie special. Drink now–2020."

This was an ideal pairing with the smoked BBQ but was overshadowed by the more complex and elegant Grange and the bigger bolder more concentrated and more complex Pape Clement. 

This was dark garnet color, medium-bodied with black fruit and notes of herbs, smoke, pepper and tapenade with soft tannins on a long rather acidic finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1286574 

@DOMAINEGUIGAL

Penfolds Grange Shiraz 1990

This is a legendary bottle from a legendary producer and label. Penfolds and Grange are considered the most famous and prestigious labels of Australian wines dating back to the first experimental release in 1951. At 170 years of age, Penfolds is one of the oldest producers in Australia. They were named Australian Wine Producer of the Year 2014 by the International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC). Their  flagship wine is this ultra-premium Grange, one of the most prestigious labels in the world as well as from Australia.

This release from the 1990 vintage year, Alec's birth year, was a Wine Spectator Wine of the Year in 1995.  I've written more extensively about this release of this label in earlier blogposts.

This was acquired as part of a OWC, (original wood case) upon release and has been held in our cellar ever since. The fill level of this bottle, at 31 years was lower neck, appropriate for its age, while the tissue, label, foil and cork were perfect, having been held in the original wood case in our cellar since release. 

Consistent with earlier tasting of this label, dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, flawless, elegant, polished, harmonious, perfectly balanced, silky smooth flavors of concentrated black berry and black raspberry fruits with notes of vanilla, licorice, spice, black truffles and oak with hints of spice and cedar turning to fine grained tongue puckering tannins on the long lingering finish.

RM 95 points.

Wine Spectator gave this 98 points, James Halliday 97 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 95 points, and Jancis Robinson gave it 18 out of her twenty point scale. 

James Halliday said it was 'destined to be one of the greatest Granges'. Wine Spectator called it  'magnificent, exotic, a veritable cascade of opulent flavors'. The Rewards of Patience - Fifth Edition (2004) called it Outstanding and projected its Drinking Window from now to 2040. Southcorp Wines said, 'The 1990 vintage was the kind that winemakers only expect to see once or twice in an entire career'.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6295

https://www.penfolds.com/

https://twitter.com/penfolds

@penfolds

Château Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan Graves Grand Cru Classe 2015

Alec brought this bottle from his cellar, one of a case of this wine he received from his best buddies for his 30th birthday. This is especially memorable and fun to share as I consulted with and advised his friends on selecting this label for this special gift. Its hard to believe or imagine one could serve another bottle that matches or tops the legendary 1990 Grange label above, considered one of the best releases of that prestigious label in history. 

This is one of four Grand Cru Classé wine châteaux owned by Bernard Magrez. He went into the wine trade when he left school at the age of 16, and proclaims he was totally self taught from books and great discipline.

In 1961, when he was 25 years old he traveled to the USA and discovered the super market. On his return to France, he set up his own company, specializing in whisky and port. Selling his port to the French Carrefour hypermarket in France, it became the second most popular brand of port in the country. Over time he expanded the range of spirits eventually capturing the market. 

In the 1980s, he set his focus on top-end wine estates and he acquired Château Pape Clément, the famous Graves Grand Cru Classé, which had been classified for thirty years by then. He then acquired Château Fombrauge, a Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé, followed by Château La Tour Carnet, a Médoc Grand Cru Classé since 1855; and finally, Clos Haut Peyraguey, a Sauternes Premier Grand Cru Classé. He became the only person to own four prestigious wine estates at the same time.   

He has since acquired vineyards in eight different countries: Morocco, Spain, Portugal, Japan, Argentina, Uruguay, Chile, and the US, for a total of 43 wine estates comprising over 1,000 hectares (2,470 acres) of vines. 

Château Pape Clément is one of the oldest Bordeaux Grands Crus, dating back to the 13th Century. The estate’s vineyard established by Bertrand de Goth, who in 1305 became Pope Clément V, the name subsequently given to the Château. The first harvest was in 1252.  The historic estate and brand were acquired by Bernard Magrez in 1980. 

Château Pape Clément is located in Pessac in the Pessac-Léognan appellation contrôlée within the wider Graves wine region of the Left Bank of Bordeaux. We drove through the area during our Bordeaux wine tour in 2018 as the Chateau and estate are but eight miles from the Merignac Bordeaux Airport.  

This is one of the top labels, Vinous calls it "one of the stars" from this top vintage from Bordeaux. It was rated 99 points by James Suckling, 97 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 96 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Vinous, and 95 points and a Cellar Selection by Wine Enthusiast. This could arguably be the best bottle of Australian wine one will ever taste, at any price, Of course it is also one of the most expensive bottles of Australian wine to be found. 

This was a perfect pairing with the grilled smoked BBQ ribs, however, this wine would be a perfect pairing with pretty much anything! 

This is a blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc, It was aged 18 months in 80% new French oak.

Dark blackish garnet purple colored, medium-full bodied, complex and concentrated yet elegant and polished, perfectly balanced and integrated notes of black currant, black cherry and black berry fruits accented by notes of truffles, cassis, tobacco, hints of dark mocha, spicy clove and graphite turning to smooth polished supple tannins on the full lingering finish. 

RM 96 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2353553

https://bernard-magrez.com/en/le-chateau-pape-clement-2/

 

 

Saturday, July 3, 2021

French Wine Dinner Al Fresco at Suzettes Creperie Wheaton

French Wine Dinner Al Fresco at Suzettes Creperie Wheaton 

We booked a dinner outside on the patio at Suzette's Creperie in Wheaton. Attracted by the delectable French cuisine, thoughtful Wine Spectator Best Award winelist, and outdoor dining, we were looking forward to a delightful evening. The final component of an ideal dinner outing was the acceptance of BYOB so I pulled from the cellar a vintage St Emilion to accompany my planned pate' or foie gras. 

We were joined by son Alec and daughter-in-law Vivianna. This was a special outing, partially in light of our fond memories of our spectacular trip together to Provence and the Luberon region of France two years ago. One of the highlights of that trip was a visit to the Chateauneuf-du-Pape wine appellation. Suzette's wine list featured several wines from the estates we visited during that trip. 

We dined on the quaint outdoor patio under the tent, likely a remnant of the Covid era, which had much the same feel of the patio garden under the tent as Restaurant Le Savoie where we dined in Marqaux during our trip to Bordeaux during that same trip to Provence.

I had been looking forward to ordering the Pâté and brought the Right Bank Bordeaux wine specifically for the pairing. We also ordered a selection of Appetizers that called for white wine and we chose from the winelist a very special limited release label. 

Chateau La Nerthe Clos de Beauvenir Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2009
 
One of the highlights of our visit to Chateauneuf-du-Pape was a tour and tasting at Chateau La Nerthe where we tasted the special limited release bottle Chateau La Nerthe Clos de Beauvenir. This label is only produced in select vintages with small production of fewer than 250 cases of the special white wine in a release year. 
 
This is a blend of Rhone varietals, 60% Roussanne and 40% Clairette.
 

This was rated 95 points by Robert M. Parker Jr., 94 points by Wine Spectator and 93 points by Vinous / International Wine Cellar.

Golden colored, medium full bodied, expressive complex tropical fruit with  notes of pear and melon with floral tones and hint of vanilla on the finish. 

RM 90 points  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1131991

This special bottle was a highlight to accompany the Sole Meunière entree and the appetizers: Spicy Coconut Shrimp with Red, Yellow & Poblano Peppers in a Creamy Coconut Sauce, Three Cheese Soufflé comprised of Bleu, Gruyère & Goat Cheese, and Shrimp Beignets.
 

Linda and Vivianna both ordered the Sole Meunière served in a butter-lemon Sauce with potatoes du jour & seasonal vegetables. 

Suzette Creperie Sole Meunière

I ordered the Beef Bourgogne Crêpe, made the authentic French way with a bottle or two of Red Wine, braised with mushrooms and carrots for six hours. 

Suzette Creperie Beef Bourgogne Crêpe
Suzette Creperie Beef Bourgogne Crêpe

Alec ordered the Duck Confit with rich duck jus on a bed of white and wild rice with seasonal vegetables.

Suzette Creperie Duck Confit

All the entree's were delectable, ideally prepared and presented.

Chateau L’Arrosee St Emilion Grand Cru Class 2000

I brought BYOB from our cellar this 2000 l'Arrosee, St-Emilion to pair and enjoy with the pate' and the beef bourgogne entree. 

Chateau L’Arrosee is named for an underground spring located on this Bordeaux estate in St. Emilion.

Founded back in 1868, L’Arrosee belonged to a member of the Council of Napoléon III, Pierre Magne who sold the estate to the French Ambassador to Austria. It was acquired by by the Dupuch family in the early part of the 20th century who produced the wines at the local cooperative until 1956. 

In 2002, Chateau L’Arrosee was bought by the Caille family who made extensive renovations to upgrade the vineyards and wine making facilities. They hired Gilles Pouquet as consulting winemaker who had extensive experience in St. Emilion having worked at Cheval Blanc, Figeac and several other notable Right Bank properties. 

In July, 2013, Chateau L’Arrosee was purchased by Domaine Clarence Dillon, the owners of Chateau Haut Brion in Pessac Leognan. They had recently purchased the St Emilion property Tertre Dugay, which they combined with L'Arrosee to form the renamed and re-branded Chateau Quintus.

Chateau L’Arrosee has 9.5 hectare St. Emilion vineyard planted with 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, with vines of an average age of 35 years. The wine is aged in 100% new, French oak barrels for 12 to 18 months with an average annual production of close to 3,500 cases a year.

This was rated 92 points Wine Spectator. 

Dark ruby colored, medium bodied, red berry and black cherry fruits with notes of floral, earth, herbes de Provence, sweet tobacco leaf, smoke and dusty rose with a moderate lingering tannin finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=32904

The cork separated in half upon extraction by the server using a traditional corkscrew. It was then strained and decanted.

www.domaineclarencedillon.com 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/08/a-visit-to-chateau-la-nerthe.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/08/restaurant-le-savoie-marqaux.html 

http://suzettescreperie.com/

Friday, July 2, 2021

Italian Barolo for Italian Cuisine

Italian Barolo for Italian Cuisine 

We dined with two of our boys Alec and Sean and their spouses Vivanna and Michelle at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. I took BYOB from our cellar this vintage Silvio Grasso Barolo for the occasion. For our Italian dinner I wanted to take an Italian varietal wine, preferably a Sangiovese or a Nebbiolo, and this was one of the few that we hold in our cellar as most of our collection is comprised of Bordeaux and Rhone varietals.

Produced by the Grasso family who have been producing wine since 1927, but Federico Grasso only started bottling all their production since the mid 1980s, when Alessio Federico took over from his father Silvio. 

Grassos farm a total of 14 hectares of vineyards; 6 estate owned and 8 leased in the La Morra, Barolo wine district from the Piedmont region of Northern Italy. Federico Grasso is backed by his wife Marilena and by his sons Silvio and Paolo. According to Robert Parker, they have  "produced a bevy of sensational efforts over recent vintages."

Despite their small overall production, they produce a dozen different labels, six of which are different  sophisticated, modern Barolos produced in a style noted for avoiding excessive wood aromas as Grasso prefers to use large barrels rather than barriques for maturation, and uses less than 30% new wood even on his single-vineyard bottlings. All the Barolos are 100% estate grown Nebbiolo grapes with this being their entry level estate bottled label.

They also produce several small production single vineyard labels, "Bricco Luciani", which is located just above Molino’s "Gancia" vineyard classic La Morra, which is soft and generous, while the "Ciabot Manzoni" was described as "Godzilla-like" by Parker, "multidimensional, compelling/prodigious... gigantic in scope and stature"; this wine was given 95 points for the 2004 by the Wine Spectator. Notably, all of Grasso's 2004 Baroli were awarded scores between 92-95 points.

This is 100% estate bottled Nebbiolo sourced from a small 4 acre vineyard from vines planted in 1982. Nebbiolo is characterized by aromatic wines with rich tannins and characteristics of old oak, these wines are considered by most to be some Italy's finest. 

Barolo wines are some of the most noble and expensive of Italian wines and are synonymous with the Nebbiolo grape.  The Nebbiolo grape does not travel well and is high maintenance, which is why it has never thrived quite as well elsewhere as on the Piemontese slopes and was not adopted by other wine producing regions. Like its top contender, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo reflects its terroir and displays the subtleties of its environment and sense of 'place' where it is grown.

Silvio Grasso Barolo 2010

This release was awarded 94 points by James Suckling and 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

Analyst notes: "This wine is robust with evident notes of red flowers on the nose. The palate will enjoy significant acid and strong, long, earthy finish. These wines collect well, although consult a specialist to get a hold of of the best vintages."

Dark garnet colored, slightly opaque, medium bodied, complex, concentrated with deep dark berry and black cherry fruits with notes of tobacco, leather, smoke, mineral and floral turning to approachable tannins on the moderate finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1828058

http://www.silviograsso.com/en/prodotti/barolo

Thursday, July 1, 2021

Ninety-Plus Cellars Lot 94 Cab w/ steak caprese balsamic

Ninety-Plus Cellars Lot 94 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon with grilled steak, caprese and balsamic vinagrettes.

Following the delightful dinner we had the other evening with grilled steak and caprese with balsamic vinagrettes, we did an encore, but tonight pulled from the cellar a hearty robust Napa Cabernet from this private label negociant label. 

Once again, as the other night, a delicious pairing combination where I wrote extensively about this balsamic, steak caprese combo,  highlighting the accentuated food and wine pairing.

I've written often in these pages the Ninety-Plus Cellars story with their negociant wines or surplus wines acquired and private labeled, often at high QPR below market prices. They offer a broad selection of labels from the wine regions around the world, often at great value. Occasionally, they offer extraordinary wines at affordable prices for everyday drinking. Ninety-Plus label or Lot # is often due to excess supply or other reasons.

When I last tried this label a year ago, I wrote that it was uninspiring and leaving much to be desired. Having modest expectations, tonight this was very enjoyable and ideally suited to pair with the grilled steak, caprese and selection of artisan cheese.

label

Wine collectors understand the axiom of pricing wine for the occasion ... every day wines, once a week wines, once a month wines and once in a lifetime or special occasion wines. Only the privileged few need not worry about budgets or costs of their beverage choice du jour.

I bought this wine for such an occasion as tonight, respectable drinker at a moderate price for a midweek dinner.

Lot 94 is part of the Ninety-Plus Cellars' popular Collector's Series wine brand. It is a full-bodied Napa Cab from highly-regarded vineyard sites in the distinguished Rutherford AVA, a good value when compared to the Napa Cabs produced from such sites.   

When I last tasted this last fall I rated this 90 Points and wrote, "The 2017 is a top flight Cabernet, sophisticated, complex and enjoyable for early gratification, drinking now, and may likely improve further with 2 to 5 years of aging or more as it is not equal to the 2015 which was a bit better integrated and polished."

Ninety-Plus writes of this label, "the fruit is picked from vines situated on the east side of the valley in a vineyard that was first planted in the 1890s. Upon alluvial and volcanic soils these densely planted vines produce Cabernet Sauvignon that makes some of the best wine in Napa. This is an all-star Cabernet with an elite pedigree."

Consistent with my earlier tasting, "While I echo the negociant's (Ninety Plus Cellars) tasting notes on this release: "Deep crimson in color with lavish aromas of black currant, mocha, and savory herbs with trailing notes of tobacco and vanilla. Full-bodied and well-rounded with soft edges and a lively dose of bright cherry fruit that unfolds into a smooth finish," this lacked balance and polish I hoped for pleasant high QPR everyday sipping. The fruits were a bit obtuse and forward with a somewhat flabby less approachable profile."

RM 88 points.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/09/90-lot-94-2017.html

https://www.ninetypluscellars.com/

Monday, June 28, 2021

Ferrari-Carano Anderson Valley Pinot Noir

Ferrari-Carano Anderson Valley Pinot Noir and Domaine Chandon sparkling white wine with Isola balsamic vinagrettes on beefsteak toast points and caprese salad - for ideal summer casual dining!

Readers of these pages know I am not a big Pinot drinker. I admit I don't have the palette or discrimination for a Pinot Noir like I do Bordeaux or Rhone varietals. 

Never-the-less I picked up several bottles of this moderate priced every day drinker for casual sipping during the summer when its more approachable than a bigger 'heavier' weightier wine. 

That said, I opened this casual Pinot sipper with some caprese - mozzarella cheese, tomatoes, fresh basil from our garden, topped off with balsamic vinagrette dressing (s), and it was spectacular - a wonderful and delightful pairing! 

This is another example where the appropriate pairing of food and wine accentuates the enjoyment of both. 

In addition, we had toast points with slices of the tomahawk rib-eye steaks from the other evening, which were equally delectable - also topped with the balsamic! We love this combination. 

This pairing was accentuated further by the adding a touch of both chocolate and raspberry balsamic vinagrettes. These are from the brand Isola (shown below), imported from Italy, these balsamics originate from Modena, Italy.  

These are imported by Isola Imports, which began in 1957 as a small Italian grocery store, a modest little storefront in the heart of Chicago, operated by Italian immigrant John Nitti. As he shared a taste of Italy with his family, friends and neighbors, word spread quickly about his wonderful store and his customers clamored for more. His products enabled the whole neighborhood - and beyond - to experience uniquely authentic Italian cuisine. 

John and his wife Janet moved back to Italy, where they traveled its diverse regions - from Sicily to Venice, and from Rome to Napoli, searching for authentic artisan specialty culinary products. Today, they are joined by their children, Jay, Michael and Lisa in their family owned and operated import and distribution business in the Archer Heights neighborhood of Chicago, bringing a range of products from across Italy to Chicagoland . 

Isola Imports was born in 1992. Isola means 'Island', referring to the numerous regions of Italy. each with its own identity with distinctive flavors and products. Isola import products can be found across the Chicagoland grocers: Whole Foods, Mariano's, Pete's Fresh Market, Tony's and Sunset Markets.

While we might serve this accompanied by a 'big red', in the heat and humidity of summer, the lighter, softer, more approachable Pinot Noir was ideal. 

As shown, wife Linda accompanied her's with sparkling white wine from Domane Chandon, another modest inexpensive every day sipper, ideal, and delightful for the occasion and for this pairing!

Ferrari-Carano Pinot Noir Anderson Valley  2018 

The Farrari-Carano estate and winery sit on Rock Rise Mountain on the east side of the Alexander Valley, high above the town of Geyserville at an elevation of 1,000 feet. This is where they produce their red wines. They produce white wines at another location. 

This Ferrari-Carano Pinot Noir comes from their three ranches in Anderson Valley, up in Mendocino County, north of Sonoma County, two hours north of San Francisco up Hwy 101. Located just off the coastal region of Mendocino County, Anderson Valley and the adjacent Mendocino Ridge are in a sparsely populated area near the small town of Boonville, population 700. The 15 mile long Anderson Valley was formed by the Navarro River watershed and is surrounded by steep, forested slopes as well as rolling hills dotted with picturesque vineyards, farms and orchards. 

Ferrari-Carano purchased the Sky High Ranch vineyard property, already planted to Pinot Noir grapes, sited on the Mendocino Ridge high above Anderson Valley. The vineyard is surrounded by towering redwoods and dense forest. Sitting at 1,500-foot elevation, the steep slopes of Mendocino Ridgeover sit above the cool fog line.

They produce two Pinot Noir wines from this area – a single vineyard designated label, Sky High Ranch Pinot Noir, and this Ferrari-Carano Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. Anderson Valley is known as an up-and-coming appellation with ideal terroir for growing Pinot Noir grapes, good drainage and a microclimate of warm sunny days and cool, foggy mornings and nights.

The year 2018 was very good with ideal weather conditions for the vines. Spring produced great set, and average rainfalls led to normal to above‐normal yields. Consistently warm temperatures during the summer months without any drastic heat spikes or rain events allowed for longer “hang time” for the grapes, which led to fully ripe flavors.

Winemakers' notes for this label: "Aromas of pretty raspberry, cherry, pomegranate, a touch of rose petal, and cola notes fill the senses followed by vibrant flavors of red fruits that jump out on the front palate, while the mid-palate turns to blackberry, plum and spice notes. The finish is fruit driven with lingering flavors of cherry and a spicy touch of toast. A velvety texture and bright acidity create a naturally- balanced wine."

Wine Enthusiast Magazine scored this 92 points while Wine Spectator gave it 90 points.

The wine has aged for 10 months in 20% new French oak barrels before bottling.

This was dark ruby red, medium bodied, with rich, expressive full black-cherry, plum and pomegranate  flavors with dusty rose, clove spice, cola and smoky oak with smooth velvety tannins on a lingering finish.

RM 90 points

https://www.ferrari-carano.com/wine-release/2018-ferrari-carano-pinot-noir-anderson-valley-2/

https://www.ferrari-carano.com/

https://www.isolaimports.com/

@FerrariCarano