Wednesday, March 10, 2021

Mollydooker "The Enchanted Path" Shiraz Cabernet

Mollydooker "The Enchanted Path" McLaren Vale South Australia Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2005  

One of my favorite meals is barbecue ribs with baked potato and peas with a robust Shiraz. We submitted papers for a family milestone event and held a personal mini tribute to my recently departed mother by opening this premium label vintage release with dinner for a perfect pairing.

This is the inaugural release of Mollydooker produced by Sarah and Sparkie Marquis who I recently featured in a post about the producers and the Mollydooker brand in a horizontal tasting of Aussie shiraz's.   

We hold a half dozen vintages of this label and pulled this vintage release, the oldest in our collection, as part of proper cellar management. This reduces the chances of keeping wines past their prime drinking window. Of course, variations in vintages need to also be considered, as some vintages have longer lives than others. Collectors need to follow vintage charts or others' tasting notes for absolute guidance on vintage management. That is a reason I often take care to comment on the status of older bottles in our collection.

This is Syrah (2/3) based accented by Cabernet Sauvignon (1/3). 

This unique blend really works with the Cabernet adding breadth and depth to the big black inky purple colored full bodied Shiraz. The result is a powerful full bodied complex wine with concentrated forward chewy tongue coating black berry and black cherry fruits accented by ripe plum and spice, a layer of vanilla and hints of mocha and anise with fine silky tannins on the long finish.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave this wine a whopping 96 points and wrote in their review: "The 2005 Enchanted Path (66% Shiraz and 34% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in primarily American oak, 60% new) is fashioned from relatively young vines. It reveals an amazing opaque purple/blue/black color (always a hallmark of Marquis wines), a full-bodied, powerful, smoky nose, extravagant layers of fruit, spice, glycerin, and extract, full body, superb intensity, tremendous richness, and a seamless personality. It is a textbook example of a southern Australian red at its richest, fullest, and most pure. For consumers with open minds and progressive palates, this amazing red should age beautifully for 10-15 years. Drink through 2021+"

Opaque black inky garnet colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated yet elegant and polished with balanced harmonious black berry fruits exude aromatics that leap out of the glass with notes of plum, vanilla and hints of black pepper, followed by notes of dark chocolate mocha, licorice and spice turning to velvet smooth tannins on a long smooth finish.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=247775

www.mollydookerwines.com

 

Saturday, March 6, 2021

Cliff Lede Napa Diamond Mountain Cabernet 2014

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 highlights family birthday celebration dinner

The family gathered for grandson Mile's birthday party. The parents/hosts Johnny and Erin ordered in carry-out Italian dinner. There's nothing better than gathering with family for a special occasion such as this. Son Ryan and I brought a couple wines for the dinner.

The wine highlight was clearly this Cliff Lede Diamond Mountain Cabernet that Ryan brought from his cellar. Ryan and Michelle tasted and acquired this wine during their visit to the Cliff Lede Stags Leap District estate and received it as part of their regular club allocation shipment. He says that this was their absolute favorite of all the wines tasted during their tasting of the Lede portfolio. 

Our visits and tastings at the Cliff Lede estate vineyards and winery in the Stags Leap District have been highlights of a couple of our Napa Valley trips. 

Cliff Lede Stags Leap District
estate vineyards and winery

Winemaker Christopher Tynan describes the 2014 Diamond Mountain vineyard for Cabernet Sauvignon: "Our Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon comes from an exceptional, low-yielding vineyard with volcanic ash and gravelly loam soils in the Diamond Mountain appellation, nestled in the Mayacamas Range on the northwest side of Napa Valley. The sun-drenched mountain vineyard has northeastern exposure and late afternoon breezes that ripen the fruit slowly and evenly. Planted and farmed by David Abreu Vineyard Management, this extraordinary site of old vines planted on a steep incline with a historic Napa field selection produces an age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon with dark fruit, intense structure, minerality, and perfume... "

He continues, "The 2014 vintage was a vintner’s dream. A dry late winter with unseasonably warm temperatures prompted an early bud break, leading to one of the earliest harvests on record. Moderate weather throughout the spring and summer allowed the vines to achieve a good set. The dry soil conditions led to low-vigor vines and small, abundant berries, creating very concentrated fruit that ripened with the warm fall days. With lovely autumn weather, harvest proceeded at a steady pace."

Diamond Mountain vineyards in distance
as seen from Diamond Creek Vineyards (foreground)

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Winemaker's Notes for this vintage release: The ravishing inky purple 2014 Diamond Mountain is a seductive and complex tincture where a panoply of cassis, pine forest, black tea, bay laurel, and cedar aromas playfully dance in the glass. Layers of blackberry, new leather, and fresh tobacco notes lay out on top of the bouquet. The long and decadent mouthfeel is guided along the palate by a fresh acidity and gobs of chocolaty tannins provide an enticing structure. Lingering notes of ancho chile, cumin, and crushed blueberries persist long after tasting."- Christopher Tynan, Winemaker

This was a blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot; 440 cases were produced.

This is a full throttle Napa Cab, about as full bodied and fruit forward as they come. Dark inky purple, medium full bodied, complex, dense concentrated black and blue berry fruits with accents of cedar, black tea and tobacco leaf with hints of cassis and cedar on an expressive, structured, tongue coating full tannins on the lingering finish. After an hour the initial slightly astringent notes of camphor wore off to reveal bright sprites of the expressive fruit.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2534482

https://www.ledefamilywines.com/

https://twitter.com/CliffLedeWine 

@CliffLedeWine  

Nova Wines Napa Valley "Marilyn" Merlot 2006

Erin and Johnny opened this whimsical fun label. We have a deep vertical collection of this wine spanning two decades and I enjoy gifting it to folks, daughter Erin included. This is from her collection I've given her over the years. 

I did a feature on this producer and their Marilyn Merlot and Norma Jean Wines - A Study in Branding  several years ago. 

We first tried the 2006 Marilyn Merlot Napa when we did a vertical tasting of the 06, 07 and 08 vintages several years ago. The '06 was the concensus favorite of that tasting.

Today it was medium bodied, dark ruby color, pleasant easy drinking black berry fruits with tones of spicy oak on a moderate tannin lingering finish.

RM 87 points. 

 

We also took and finished up a bottle we had opened and written about the previous evening -

"Wines of Substance 'CS"' Columbia Valley Cabernet

"Wines of Substance 'CS"' Washington Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

 





Friday, March 5, 2021

"Wines of Substance 'CS"' Columbia Valley Cabernet

"Wines of Substance 'CS"' Washington Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

For easy every day drinking I picked up this label that Lyle and Terry introduced us to during our Virtual OTBN 2021 wine gathering the other night. Being an astute buyer with discriminating tastes and an eye for value, I followed Lyle's lead in picking up this new release. 

This is a high QPR overachieving Cabernet from producer Charles Smith who became known for his K Vintners portfolio of Washington State, Columbia Valley Syrahs. In 2017 he created the Wines of Substance brand to market and promote his Bordeaux varietal based wines, distinctive from the Syrah associated with K Vintners.

Charles Smith grew up outside of Sacramento, California, in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, During nine years touring Europe managing rock bands and concert tours, living on the road wining and dining every night, he developed a passion for wine. 

Following his interest in wine, in 1999, he moved back to the US to the Pacific Northwest where he opened a wine shop on Bainbridge Island, just across Puget Sound from downtown Seattle. Traveling the Washington State wine country, he discovered the town of Walla Walla where he met a young Frenchman and winemaker who convinced him to focus on producing his own wines. Charles moved to Walla Walla and founded the K Syrah brand producing his inaugural release of 330 cases in 2001. 

Gaining a reputation for producing low priced good value wines, he sold the brand to Precept Brands in 2006 and pivoted to start his new namesake brand, Charles Smith Wines. He set out to produce varietal wines that represented their distinctive terroir but for drinking at early age upon release for instant gratification at good value. 

In 2008, the self-taught winemaker, and his K Vintners was recognized by Wine & Spirits magazine as one of the “Best New Wineries of the Last Ten Years, and as “Winery of the Year in their annual buying guide. In 2009 Food & Wine magazine awarded Charles “Winemaker of the Year and in 2010 Seattle Magazine recognized Charles as their “Winemaker of the Year.  

Charles Smith has grown his portfolio of wines across several brands and recently announced and launched 'House of Smith', as he has become the largest independent and winemaker-owned winery in Washington State. House of Smith includes the brands K Vintners, Substance, ViNO CasaSmith, SIXTO, B.Leighton, POPUP, and Golden West, offering wines of nearly every noble grape varietal. 

Like the approach and strategy of Jess Jackson that I chronicled recently about his Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay, Charles Smith and his brands, starting with his K Vintners wines, offer high volume yet terrific wines that more than over deliver at their price point, bringing quality affordable wine to a wide audience. 

Based in Walla Walla, House of Smith operates a tasting room downtown Walla Walla, one at K Vintners in a vintage farmhouse at the base of the Blue Mountains, and  Jet City Winery, an expansive, one-of-a-kind winery out of what was once a Dr. Pepper bottling plant in the Georgetown neighborhood of Seattle.

This relatively new brand offers low cost but quality wine of value for every day drinking including this (Wines of) Substance Cabernet Sauvignon. 

It was awarded 93 points by James Suckling, 91 points by Jeb Dunnuck and 90 points by Decanter.  It is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon with fruit sourced from five different Columbia Valley vineyards. 

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium full bodied, bold dark black berry and black currant fruits with notes of olive tapenade, cigar box, cedar, black tea and graphite pencil lead with hints of dark mocha chocolate. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3504615

https://houseofsmith.com/


Tuesday, March 2, 2021

Linden Hardscrabble Virginia Red Blend 2006

Linden Hardscrabble Virginia Red Blend 2006

We discovered and acquired this wine during our visit to the Linden vineyards and winery estate in Linden, Fauquier County, in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia back in 2010. There we met and tasted with founder, proprietor and then winemaker Jim Law

The town of Linden is sixty miles west of Washington DC, located in the Middleburg Wine AVA, in the Northern Virginia wine growing region, of Virginia's nine wine regions and six AVAs. The Middleburg AVA is bounded by the Potomac River to the North and follows the eastern slope of the mountains south to the town of Linden. 


Linden produces a broad portfolio of wines including this label, Hardscrabble, a Bordeaux varietal blend. The name Hardscrabble refers to the rough rocky well drained soil there that combined with mountainous elevation above 1300 feet, provides an suitable terroir for serious wines. 

Linden Vineyards was a long-abandoned apple orchard when Jim Law and his family purchased the 76 acres in 1983, after several years of looking for vineyard land with high elevations and east facing slopes. After clearing trees, they planted the first eight acres in 1985. The original vines were mostly grafted and propagated in-house from budwood obtained from the few local vineyards in the surrounding area. 

Their first planting consisted of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Vidal, and Seyval. They built a winery building that was finished in time for the harvest of 1987, Linden’s first commercial vintage.

Of the numerous wineries we visited during our Virginia wine country tour, Linden was the only producer from whom we purchased wines to ship home, of which this is one of the last remaining bottles from that collection. Linden wines exceeded my expectations at that time, surpassing the other producers' labels we tried. 

A decade later, at fourteen years, this wine once again exceeded my expectations and rose to the occasion for enjoyable drinking, a worthy accompaniment to our left over roast beef, potatoes and vegetable dinner.

Linden wines have a distinct style. They are concentrated, mineral, and refreshing rather than fruit driven. They often require significant aging to reach their full potential. Our wines are best enjoyed as a complement to a meal.

 Since Linden’s first vintage in 1987, the focus has been in the vineyards. They have three distinct sites, each one with an evolving personality. They nurture the vines and craft their wines to best express the character of each vineyard site. Winemaker Jim Law says the wines from Hardscrabble Vineyard are 'cerebral and complex', while their Avenius Vineyard produces wines that are edgy and energetic, and their Boisseau Vineyard produces hedonistic and lush wines.


 The 2006 reds are very Bordeaux in acidity and structure, which should make them candidates for long term aging.


This is sourced from the Hardscrabble Vineyard (100%), Fauquier Co. on top of the Blue Ridge at 1,300 to 1,400 feet with an eastern to southern slope. Deep, well drained rocky, mineral soils give depth, structure and length. The Vine ages were from 3 to 21 years. The twenty acre Hardscrabble vineyard surrounds the winery building and includes some of the original vines planted in 1985.

The 2006 vintage was a good year. Jim wrote, "I would have to characterize the vintage as “classic” in that the growing season was about as close to typical as is possible. There were substantial swings in temperature and rainfall during the summer, but in fact, this is normal for Virginia. The red grapes ripened fully with good balance."

Linden Hardscrabble Virginia Red Blend 2006

This release is a complex and sophisticated classic Bordeaux  blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 11% Petit Verdot. 

Tonight this was tasting amazingly like the earlier tasting at the winery a decade ago .... Dark purple color - medium bodied - smooth, polished, nice balance of complex medley of flavors. Dark berry fruit, hint of currant, bramble, spice, herbs and slight earthiness - subtle tones of soft oak and dark chocolate on the moderate tannin finish.

RM 89 points. 

http://cellartracker.com/w?567768

https://www.lindenvineyards.com/ 

 








Monday, March 1, 2021

Sterling Napa Valley Merlot 1985

Sterling Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 1985

Son Sean and wife Michelle came over for beef roast dinner and I pulled from the cellar this vintage aged birthyear wine for the occasion. We still hold numerous labels from Sean's vintage birthyear and several are getting beyond their optimal drinking window so they need to be consumed. This was one such wine. 

While today this label would not be considered a collectible for long term cellaring, we acquired it long ago when our cellar and tastes were less discriminating, and when it had some other intrinsic sentimental value. Sterling Vineyards was one of the estates we visited on one of our earliest visits to Napa Valley back in the early 1980's.

Sterling Vineyards was founded in 1964 by Peter Newton, an Oxford graduate with a diverse background in international business, and a former London Financial Times writer. His company, Sterling International, purchased the 50-acre parcel of established vineyards on the south edge of Calistoga in northern Napa Valley as a means of prestige and diversification. The locals dubbed it Sterling Vineyard.

Over the following years, Sterling International acquired more upper valley properties around St. Helena including Bear Flats of which the 87 acres vineyard, and Bothe Ranch, are two key vineyard sources for Sterling wines to this day. While Cabernet Sauvignon was the most popular varietal, Newton planted his new vineyards with Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and the first major planting of Merlot in the Napa Valley, in addition to Cabernet Sauvignon - a move that was considered bold and innovative.

In 1968, he added the 70-acre, 300-foot knoll off Dunaweal Lane near Calistoga  on which he built a magnificent winery perched at the top of the hill. That was the year of the first Sterling Vineyards vintage-dated Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Merlot, produced with recent University of California Davis graduate Ric Forman as winemaker. 

In 1969, they set upon building a striking Mediterranean-style white stucco winery complex in Greek Ionian architectural style that included a most unusual aerial tramway that carried guests from the parking lot to the winery on the knoll. Sterling Vineyards was formally opened to the public in September of that year at a gala benefit for the San Francisco Symphony. The new winery started production in 1972. To the right is a historic vintage label from 1975 showing the winery atop the knoll as seen from St Helena highway.

In 1977, Sterling Vineyards was purchased by Coca-Cola, followed by the purchase of Rutherford vineyards and the world-famous Diamond Mountain Ranch vineyard the following year. 

In 1983, Sterling Vineyards was purchased by Joseph E. Seagram & Sons, the world's largest producer and marketer of distilled spirits and wines. Shortly thereafter we visited the property which was a showcase tourist destination in then nascent Napa Valley. 

In 1986, Sterling Vineyards purchased Rene de Rosa's prestigious 250-acre Carneros property, Winery Lake, and introduced 1986 Winery Lake Chardonay and Pinot Noir in 1988. Three Palms Merlot 1986 was also released for the first time that year. In 1989, winemaker Bill Dyer was awarded the Winemaker of the Year award by the Los Angeles Times. Sterling wines were high profile, highly acclaimed labels during that era. 

During this era, Sterling were one of our favorite drinking Napa Valley Bordeaux varietals and I recall acquiring this label and ordering it at restaurants as well. In later years, our holdings of Sterling tended to be the 'Three Palms Vineyard' Merlot and other single vineyard designated bottlings and Reserve labels.

In 1991, directed by master sommelier Evan Goldstein, they opened the School of Service and Hospitality at Sterling Vineyards, to provide education about wine, food, and service to consumers and professionals.

In 1995, they set upon a multi-million dollar expansion and modernization project including cave expansion and replanting projects throughout Sterling Vineyards' Napa Valley properties. Seagram's wine division was reorganized under the name Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company. 

The 1985 vintage was considered a top vintage for Napa Valley Bordeaux varietal wines. For the '85 vintage, the best Napa Valley Merlots were from Duckhorn, Cuvaison, St. Francis, Sterling, Matanzas, Shafer, Clos du Val, Clos du Bois Rombauer and Rutherford Hill according to Decanter Magazine.

Fruit for this vintage release of this label was sourced from the Sterling 120 acre Diamond Mountain Ranch vineyard, west of the town of Calistoga, near the top of the Diamond Mountain range at elevation from 1,700 to 2,000 feet, on the steep northern face of the Mayacamas Mountains. 

There, nearly vertical slopes, austere soils, and dry farming stress the vines planted, and when combined with the low-vigor volcanic soils that provide minimal nutrition, the results are small, intensely concentrated fruit clusters that make deeply pigmented, assertive wines with full body and rich tannins.

This release was a blend of 97% Merlot and  3% Cabernet Franc, both from the same estate Diamond Mtn Ranch vineyard. It was aged in smalll Nevers French Oak barrels.

Despite its age, at thirty-six years old, the fill level, cork, foil and label were in ideal condition. The wine, while past its prime was still holding on to some fruit and body and was still consumable. 

Brown hues were setting in to the color, the body was a bit flat and the dark berry fruits were giving way to non-fruit tones of wood, earth, tobacco and black tea. 

It was still enjoyable for the dinner and it was fun opening and sharing with son Sean. Notably this was our last bottle of this label, consumed while still drinkable, but in its waning days. 

RM 84 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=191994

https://www.sterlingvineyards.com/ 





Sunday, February 28, 2021

Covid forces Virtual OTBN for 2021

Covid forces virtual OTBN for 2021

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, 2021 - the annual wine tasting extravaganza was held according to custom, on the last Saturday night in February.

This is the 22nd year for the annual event wine extravaganza, originally conceived by Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal. OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, is for those that have a special bottle of wine or champagne hidden away being saved for a special occasion that for whatever reason hasn't happened.  

Every year since 2000, on the last Saturday night in February, Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) has been celebrated - the time to uncork and enjoy that cherished but here-to-for elusive bottle. Gaiter and Brecher realized they weren't alone - having that special bottle set aside for an occasion that just never happens. On this night, you don't need an excuse or a reason - just do it! Take advantage of OTBN to open that bottle and enjoy it! Enjoy it by yourself, or better yet, enjoy it with someone special, or even better, with a group of special friends. Have everyone bring such a bottle and let the story telling begin, because so often, every OTBN bottle has a story or some meaning, or not.

Covid protection protocols dictated a whole new paradigm for social gatherings this year and as such, we met virtually via an internet network collaboration app with our fellow Pour Boys wine group. 

Linda and I traveled to Indiana to join Dr Dan and Linda, while Lyle and Terry in Chicago, and Bill and Beth on Seabrook Isle, SC, joined virtually via our tele-session. 
 
Pour Boys Wine Group OTBN 2021
 
Needless to say, the remote virtual gathering undermined the ability to share and taste a broad selection of wines.
Unlike previous years where the group brought a broad and deep selection of wines that allowed for multiple flights of different wine tastings - champagne or sparkling wine to start, a white flight with the pre-dinner starter course, a red or blend flight with the dinner course (s), and a dessert flight with the final course, tonight's selection was subdued and more singularly focused based on a limited selection appropriate for two couples. 
 
Each couple had their own wine and food pairing for the evening - Bill and Beth a Cliff Lede Stags Leap 2010, Lyle and Terry a Substance "CS" Cabernet Sauvignon from Columbia Valley, Washington.

I brought a red and a white to Dr Dan's, and as usual, he pulled a broad selection of wines from his cellar for the evening - a white, several reds, and a dessert wine. 
 
 
Prior to dinner, Dan and Linda served a broad selection of artisan cheeses with fresh fruits, mixed nuts and broad selection of chocolates. 
 
 
Tonight's dinner was more subdued with comfort food fitting the deep freeze and deep snowpack we've been enduring the last month - a hearty tomato basil soup and a robust chicken pot pie.
 
Pairing with the cheese course and the pivot to the dinner, we each served an expressive white - Chardonnays from Sonoma County and Russian River Valley, which provided and fun and interesting comparison in contrasting styles.  
 

What a fun and interesting comparison in these two Chardonnays, the golden butter colored Freestone and the straw colored Rochioli. 


Both were bright, vibrant and expressive and the group was mixed on which was bigger or more fruit forward - each bold with sprites of bright fruits and accents.
 
Freestone Sonoma County Chardonnay 2008
 
 
Last year I took a inconic historic Joseph Phelps flagship Insignia Napa Bordeaux Blend Cabernet from the 1989 vintage, served alongside a 2004, at OTBN 2020 which was also held at Dr Dans. 
 
While Phelps produced Napa Valley and Carneros Chardonnays from 1974, they sought a site more suited to Chardonnay. They explored sites across Sonoma County finally settling in the town of Freestone on the Sonoma Coast, where, in the late 1990’s, few vineyards existed.
 
In 1999 they purchased land in Freestone when the area was primarily comprised of cattle, pasture and forest land. The area - just eight miles from the Pacific Ocean - was socked in by fog that lingered into the early afternoon on most summer days. The climate and Goldridge soils were thought to provide a terrior suitable for Burgundy varietals Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
 
In 2000, the Pastorale Vineyard, a former dairy farm, was planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In 2007, the Freestone Winery was built by the Hensel Phelps Construction Company, the company originally founded by Joseph Phelp's father and managed by Joe for decades until he sold the business in the mid-eighties to focus solely on winemaking. Joe Phelps stepped down as Chairman of Joseph Phelps Vineyards in 2005. 
 
Winemakers notes for this release: "Our 2008 Chardonnay reveals the purest expression of Freestone terroir that we have captured with this varietal to date. The first dip of the nose into the glass reveals aromas of orange blossom, lemongrass, savory herbs and white flowers. The subtle oak nuances lend an appealing sweetness to the delicate bouquet. Lean and focused, with richness and depth in the mouth, on the palate this wine has a lot of verve. It is dense yet also has great intensity with a complex mineral-like finish and mouthwatering acidity; a lovely balance between power and finesse."

Golden colored, medium bodied, complex, rich and dense with citrus, apples, pear and floral notes with a subdued notes of oak on the moderate finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1022272
 

 
Rochioli Russian River Valley Estate Chardonnay 2016
 
Rochioli Vineyards & Winery sits just ten minutes south of Healdsburg, further inland up the Russian River Valley, where they produce estate sourced Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.
 
The Rochioli family legacy began in 1911 when current proprietor and winemaker Joe Rochioli's grandfather, Joe Rocchioli Sr. immigrated to America along with his parents, Michele and Menichina Rocchioli (they later dropped the second "c").  Originally from a small village just outside of Lucca, the Rocchioli’s were one of many Italian families that arrived in New York, made their way across the country, and settled in Northern California.

In those days children worked from a young age, and so Tom's grandfather, Joe, still only 10-years old, labored alongside his father on a farm called Wohler Ranch, in the Russian River Valley.

 In 1934 Tom's grandmother Neoma gave birth to a son, Joe Rochioli Jr.  Shortly after, they moved to a 125-acre property nearby called Fenton Acres, the site and same location where Rochioli Vineyards is today.  

In 1959, Tom's father, Joe Jr, and grandfather, Joe Sr, planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc grape vines.  The Cabernet did not grow well and was pulled out in the 1970's.  Sauvignon Blanc, at the time, was a strange new white grape that nobody wanted and was used mainly for blends.  It was soon discovered by a few famed wineries and became desirable as a high quality grape. Today, these same vines are still in production and are considered some of the oldest Sauvignon Blanc vines in California.

The Rochioli's passion for fine wine and high quality grape growing began in 1968 when Joe Jr. began planting Pinot Noir. He had his own ideas as to what would grow best here and planted fine Pinot Noir clones from France. This was revolutionary as there was very little known about the grape in the US and he was considered a pioneer at the time for doing this. Rochioli had the foresight to know that the soil and microclimates of this unique spot in the Russian River Valley were very special and would one day produce some of the world's greatest wines. Shortly after growing Pinot Noir successfully, he  planted Chardonnay.

I have written often in these pages about another American Pinot Noir pioneer, Josh Jenson of Calera Winery,  and the chronicles of his endeavors to plant Pinot Noir that was featured in a book on the subject, the Heartbreak Grape

By the early 1970's, Rochioli were selling Pinot Noir grapes to Davis Bynum Winery and shortly thereafter they started producing wine under their own Fenton Acres label. In the early 1980’s they began selling to Williams Selyem Winery, and others.  

Tom Rochioli went to college and worked at a major financial institution for a year, then returned to the family farm with a new idea. Based on the quality of the grapes they were selling, they knew their grapes were very good and were making great wines, so they set upon producing their own wines under the Rochioli name.  In 1983, they changed the name of the property from Fenton Acres to Rochioli Vineyards.  At that time Tom took over the family business operations and soon after became the winemaker.

In 1987,  they release their first estate wine with the 1985 Rochioli Pinot Noir.  It topped Wine Spectator’s list of Pinot Noir and was named ‘The Best Pinot Noir in America’.  The Rochioli brand struck gold and was validated as a premier label. With three generations of dedication to the land, Rochioli Vineyards and Winery earned the reputation as one of Sonoma County's finest wineries.

This 2016 Rochioli Estate Chardonnay was awarded 94 points and 'Editors Choice' by Wine Enthusiast , 92 points by Vinous, 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 90 points by Jeb Dunnuck.

Straw colored, medium bodied, notes of stone fruit and lemon curd citrus, hints of peach, honeydew melon and finishes with a sense of bright pineapple and a hint of what I might call cotton candy.

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2817007 


https://twitter.com/rochioliwinery
 
@rochioliwinery
 

Chateau Tanunda "The Chateau" 100 Year Old Vines Eden Valley Barossa Shiraz

In the true spirit of OTBN, Dan pulled from the cellar this classic very limited release and highly allocated 100 year old vine shiraz from Chateau Tanunda. 

We discovered this wine together with the other Pour Boys at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour in Chicago when it was being poured by Chateau Tanunda's Dagmar O'Neill

Only 100 cases were produced that year and only a few were allocated to be shipped to America, a portion of which to the Midwest. We orchestrated a purchase of the entire allocation, nine three packs in OWC's (shown below) which we split amongst the 'pour boys' wine team, pictured below. This was Dan's last bottle, and at this time, I am holding my last bottle as well.

The Barossa is home to some of the world’s oldest Shiraz vines and the grapes for this wine come from hundred year old vines from a high altitude, one acre single vineyard in the Eden Valley.

The 'pour boys' sighted at WS
Grand Tour

Full bodied, complex, concentrated, full lingering tannins predominate the dense, black and blue berry fruits with hints of licorice, plum, spice and spicy oak.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=937673

http://www.chateautanunda.com/

 

Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 1995

Furthering the spirit of OTBN, I brought a bottle of 1995 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet. This particular label and release have some significance to Dan and me. I gifted him a magnum of this wine for his (second) wedding dinner. It was a fun label as the producer Jim Pride, like Dan was also a specialty dentist. Alas, as we started down the Shiraz path for the evening, and with but a limited number of reveler participants, the Pride was set aside to be held in Dan's cellar for another time. 

d'Arenberg "Dead Arm" Shiraz McLaren Vale South Australia 2010 

Dan also opened this Australian Shiraz, Dead Arm from d'Arenberg, another label with which we've had much fun over going on three decades. We first discovered this label with the 1994 vintage and have shared a dozen vintages together since. 

We've had great fun gifting or sharing this label with several folks, playing on the name 'Dead Arm', most notably perhaps, with a former major league baseball catcher who went on to be a noted manager. I sourced this for his personal cellar, to share with some of his battery mates, major league pitchers, in jest! 

As I have written in these pages, the label 'Dead Arm' is named for the vines that survived a grape vine disease that afflicted the vineyard back at the turn of the last century. Typically a grower would pull out and replace the afflicted vines with new plantings. D'Arenberg kept the vineyard intact and found that one half, or an ‘arm’ of the vines slowly died, but, leaving the surviving remaining half of the vine. The resulting vine produced rich intense fruit due to the vibrant roots delivering nutrients to but half the vine with the resulting low yielding fruit achieving amazing  amplified intensity.

d’Arenberg is one of the most significant wineries in McLaren Vale South Australia. It dates back to 1912 when Joseph Osborn, a teetotaller and director of Thomas Hardy and Sons, purchased 25 hectares (54 acres) of well established Milton Vineyards in the hills just north of the townships of Gloucester and Bellevue, (now known as McLaren Vale). Joseph’s son Frank Osborn left medical school, trading in scalpel for pruning shears to manage the property. He increased the vineyards to 78 hectares. Fruit was initially sold to local wineries until the construction of a winery and cellars was completed in 1928.

In 1943 Frank’s son Francis d’Arenberg Osborn, universally known as “d’Arry”, returned from school at age 16 to help his ill father run the business. He took over management responsibility in 1957. In 1959 d’Arry launched the d’Arenberg label, named in honour of his mother, Frances Helena d’Arenberg.

d'Arenberg wines gained cult status when the 1968 Cabernet Sauvignon won the 1969 Royal Melbourne Wine Show and the 1967 Red Burgundy (Grenache based) was awarded 7 trophies and 29 gold medals in Australian capital city wine shows.

By the 1970’s d’Arenberg wines had gained a significant national and international profile. The fourth generation, d’Arry’s son Chester d’Arenberg Osborn continued his family’s winemaking tradition. having grown up helping his father in both the vineyards and the cellar.

d'Arenberg was named Winery of the Year in 2003. In June 2004 Chester’s father, d’Arry was awarded a Medal of the Order of Australia in the Queen’s Birthday Honours for his contributions to the wine industry and to the McLaren Vale region. After more than 65 consecutive vintages, d’Arry continues to create an internationally recognized wine brand commonly known as the ‘Red Stripe’ due to the distinctive diagonal red stripe that adorns the label.

d'Arenberg "Dead Arm" Shiraz McLaren Vale South Australia 2010

This is one of our favorite big full throttle but elegant Australian Shiraz'. This vintage release was awarded 96 points by James Halliday, 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and by Vinous, and 90 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Deep garnet-purple colored, medium to full-bodied with bright vibrant black berry and black currant fruits with spices, smoky minerals, licorice, cola, bittersweet mocha and hints of pepper turning to firm powdery tannins, refreshing acid and a long finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1676261

https://www.darenberg.com.au/

https://twitter.com/darenbergwine

@darenbergwine

 

Violetta, Late Harvest, Napa Valley Dessert Wine 2003

To close out the evening, Dan pulled from the cellar this Violette dessert wine from Grgich Hills, named for the legendary winemaker producer Mike Grigich's daughter Violet who is also President of Grigh Hills winery and vineyards.

Of course, wine folks know Miljenko “Mike” Grgich who first gained international recognition at the celebrated “Paris Tasting” of 1976, the now-historic blind tasting in which a panel of eminent French judges swirled, sniffed, and sipped an array of the fabled white Burgundies of France and a small sampling of upstart Chardonnays from the Napa Valley. When their scores were tallied, the French judges were shocked: they had chosen the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, crafted by Mike Grgich,  as the finest white wine in the world. The results stunned the international wine establishment and immediately earned Mike a reputation as one of the greatest winemakers in the world, and not incidentally, put America wines on the map with their newly validated respectability.

The whole story is told manificently in the class based on history fictional movie "Bottle Shock". 

This is the Grgich classic late harvest dessert wine, produced from the result of Botrytis cinerea, a beneficial mold that evaporates moisture while concentrating the flavor in the berry but yielding very little juice from which to yield from the grapes. The thick, rich juice is aged in French oak to develop subtle flavors and textures. 

Winemakers notes: Luscious, ripe fruit aromas of sweet pear, candied pineapple and ripe honeydew melon follow through on the palate with undertones of white flowers melded with balsamic notes and a hint of petrol. Accentuated by uplifting acidity, these dense, ripe fruit flavors beautifully balance the residual sugar. The finish is creamy and complex with a refreshing, lingering minerality. 

Whisky colored, medium bodied, sweet, dense ripe fruits, apricot accented with an exotic layer smoke and fig and what I can only describe as an essence of cognac. 

This is a blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Riesling. 

RM 92 points.

This can almost be a whole meal course in of itself, it was ideal served with decadent chocolate bunt cake to celebrate Linda's belated birthday! 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=220923

https://www.grgich.com/ 

https://twitter.com/GrgichHills 

@GrgichHills 

Here's a compendium of our previous Pour Boy's OTBN galas. 

Pour Boys' OTBN 2020 ~ Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2019 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2018 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2016 - Open That Bottle Night 

Pour Boys OTBN 2015 - Open That Bottle NightBordeaux Anchors OTBN 2015

Pour Boys OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2014

Pour Boys OTBN 2013 - Open That Bottle Night 2013

Pour Boys OTBN 2012 - Open That Bottle Night

 

 

Saturday, February 27, 2021

Kilikanoon Oracle Shiraz 2004

Kilikanoon "Oracle" Shiraz Clare Valley South Australia 2004 

Linda prepared a hearty Chicken Cacciatore with Rice. While an ideal pairing might have been a bright white wine, Italian cuisine might dictate a Sangiovese with acidic tomato sauces, we opted for a hearty big red and I pulled from the cellar one of our favorites, Kilikanoon "Oracle" Shiraz from Clare Valley in South Australia

We have fun with this wine as a sentimental favorite, as its name Oracle is also the name of Linda's high school teams, from her home town of Delphi in Indiana, hence Oracle was a suitable name. 

The name refers to the Oracle at Delphi, which was the most famous “oracle” in ancient Greece, and people from all the then-known world would flock to the temple of Apollo seeking advice. The long path leading up the mountain to Apollo’s temple, called the Sacred Way, was lined with treasure houses filled with costly gifts that leaders and cities had given to Apollo. 

Oracle has been the flagship wine of Kilikanoon since founding in 1997. Starting as a single vineyard wine from the famed 40 year old vines of  'Mort’s Block' Clare Valley vineyard, named for founder Mort Mitchel, Oracle has long been a standard bearer for the finest of Clare Valley Shiraz.

Winemaker and proprietor Kevin Mitchell purchased the property of the same name in the hamlet of Penwortham in Leasingham in South Australia's picturesque Clare Valley. Hailing from a long line of wine grape growers, his father Mort Mitchell planted and tended Kilikanoon's Golden Hillside suite of vineyards that include the famed Mort's Block, for over 40 years. Kevin spent years working along his father working the vineyards and learning the nuances of the distinctive terroir.

The first Kilikanoon branded wines from the 1997 vintage were four single vineyard wines, each from Kevin and Mort's vineyards; 'Oracle' Shiraz, 'Prodigal' Grenache, 'Blocks Road' Cabernet and 'Mort's Block' Watervale Riesling.

In the 2002 Clare Valley Wine Show chaired by prominent Australian wine writer and judge, Huon Hooke, Kilikanoon gained notoriety by winning 6 of the 7 trophies awarded. Oracle Shiraz has twice won 'Best Shiraz' at International wine shows, and James Halliday's Australian Wine Companion named Kilikanoon 'Winery of the Year' in 2013. In 2014, Kevin Mitchell was inducted into the inaugural Clare Valley Hall of Fame as Winemaker of the Year.

Kilikanoon "Oracle" Shiraz Clare Valley South Australia 2004

With the exception of the 2011 vintage, each year since 1997 Killikanoon have released the iconic Oracle Shiraz.

Robert Parker gave this wine 97 points, James Halliday and Vinous 93 points, and Wine Spectator 92 points.

Dense inky purple colored, rich, full bodied and concentrated yet well balanced black and blue berry fruits with floral, cinnamon and clove spices, cassis, licorice and espresso turning to firm but approachable tannins on a long finish. 

Showing its age a bit at sixteen years, the fruits are taking on a burnt raisin layer indicating its time to drink as this is past its prime and will continue to decline from here forward. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=234312

 www.kilikanoon.com.au

https://twitter.com/kilikanoonwines

@kilikanoonwines 

Thursday, February 25, 2021

Donnafugata Anthilia Sicilia Bianco 2019

Donnafugata Anthilia Sicilia Bianco DOC 2019

We discovered and tasted Donnafugata wines as part of the Italian Village Chicago virtual wine dinner tasting and food pairing. For the evening, Italian Village Restaurants hosted “A Night in Sicily” presented by Jared Gelband, Italian Village Wine Director and Chef Jose, and guest host Italian Wine Specialist, Daniele Sbordi, who lead a virtual journey to the island of Sicily and a tasting of wines from producer Donnafugata Winery

Having tried their wines, I was interested to explore more of their portfolio and picked up this label on my next visit to our local wine shop, Binny's, the Chicagoland beverage super store. For a baked pork chop dinner, I opened this Donnafugata Anthilia Sicilia Bianco, a crisp light refreshing easy drinking white, an ideal pairing and perfect for the occasion.

As I wrote in my recent post, Donnafugata is the brand of the Rallo family of Sicily, who have 150 years of tradition in producing premium wines. Wine producers Giacomo Rallo and his wife, Gabriella, launched the Donnafugata brand in 1983. The name Donnafugata, translated literally “woman in flight,” refers to the history of the Habsburg queen Maria Carolina who was the consort of Ferdinand IV of Bourbon. In the early 19th century, she fled Naples and found refuge a few miles from the estate’s vineyards. Her story inspired the effigy of the head of a woman with her hair tossed by the wind that dominates the label of every bottle of Donnafugata. 

Donnafugata wines are produced in three distinct grape-growing sites in western Sicily: the historic cellars in Marsala, built in 1851; the cellar at Contessa Entellina, where the company has 642 acres of vineyards planted to Ansonica, Catarratto, Nero d’Avola, Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah; and the cellar on the volcanic island of Pantelleria, where Donnafugata cultivates 104 acres of Zibibbo vineyards. 

Part of their distinctive personality and branding of Donnafugata wines is their library of elaborate labels based on artwork inspired by Gabriella Rallo and designed by Stefano Vitale whose original artwork is featured each on the labels of each of the two dozen wines they produce. All Donnafugata wines are renowned for their use of native Sicilian and international varietals, balancing tradition and innovation in a quest for quality wines.

Wines from Sicily represent over 15% of Italy’s total vineyard land - more than the whole country of South Africa and almost as much as Australia!

One third of these Sicilian vineyards' acreage are devoted to the Catarratto grape, followed by Nero d’Avola, the second most produced grape and top red. Much of the Catarratto that is produced is blended with Inzolia and Grillo to make the famous Marsala wine, a fortified wine similar to Port with the rest used to produce mostly affordable everyday wines.

Donnafugata Anthilia Sicilia Bianco DOC 2019

This label is a blend of indigenous Sicilian grapes, mostly Lucido (Catarratto) and Ansonica plus a small amount of other international varieties from southwest Sicily, Italy. The wine was fermented and aged for a short period in stainless steel. 

Winemaker notes: Anthìlia is made principally from Catarratto, a white grape native to Sicily and grown at the winery’s Contessa Entellina estate and surrounding vineyards. The fruit was vinified cold in stainless steel, then aged for two months in tank and two months in bottle prior to release. The robe is clear yellow and aromatic of citrus fruits and flowers: lemon, lime, melon, bay leaf. There’s also a slight reductive note that reads like clay or wet stone. The palate is piquant, with snappy yellow fruits and peels, but the finish is more languid, tapering in ripe tropical pineapple. It’s a good partner for young cheeses, especially of goat’s milk, and light fish and shellfish preparations. It’s also a clever match for briny foods — think green olives, capers, tapenade, feta, anchovies.

More Winemaker notes for this wine: The 2019 Donnafugata Anthilia Sicilia Bianco begins with a nice crisp and fruity aroma of green apple, pear, peaches, lemon, lime and a touch of tropical fruit. Tasting the wine reveals a nicely tart combination of green apple, a little grapefruit, pear and creamy lemon/lime zest. This delicious wine has a great lively yet soft texture, good acidity and excellent underlying minerality. On the quite long and lingering finish that minerality turns chalky and comes to the front.

This was rated 91points by James Suckling and 90 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Light straw yellow colored, light bodied, fresh, lively and crisp with a fruity bouquet white apple and pear fruits with hints of citrus and wildflowers. 
 
RM 87 points.
 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3619328

https://www.donnafugata.it/en/

https://www.donnafugata.it/en/wines/anthilia/

@DonnafugataWine

@italianvlg 

@unwindwine 

 

Tuesday, February 23, 2021

Château Picque Caillou Pessac-Léognan 2007

Château Picque Caillou Pessac-Léognan 2007

For casual beginning of the week sipping with dinner of left-over meatloaf and grilled vegetables, I pulled from the cellar this modest Grand Vin de Bordeaux

Château Picque Caillou is in the shadows of Bordeaux Merignac Airport, just 10 km on the route to the city of Bordeaux. It lies in the heart of the Pessac-Léognan appellation in central Medoc region of Bordeaux, a semi-urban area within the perimeter circular route that surrounds the city. We passed within just a few km of the site during our visit to the region in 2019.

Pessac-Léognan was created in 1987 from the northern part of the left bank Graves appellation. Before then it was simply part of Graves. Unlike many Bordeaux appellations, Pessac-Léognan is known for both red and dry white wines, although its reds are more predominant and famous. 

The appellation includes ten communes and the area’s most important châteaux, including Château Haut-Brion, the only non-Médoc estate included in the 1855 Bordeaux classification. 

There are 2,964 acres of vineyards in Pessac-Léognan with 16 classified growth estates. The main red grapes grown are Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, along with a small amount of Cabernet Franc. White grapes grown are Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, with a little Muscadelle. Pessac-Léognan is considered to have the best terroir of the greater Graves region. 

Château Picque Caillou is not far from the prestigious Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut Brion and Pape Clément châteaux that are also surrounded by the urban sprawl of the city.

Once the heart of the Bordeaux vineyard, the vines of the “Graves de Bordeaux” surrounded the city. Today, Picque Caillou remains one of the last remaining vineyard sites surrounded by the all-consuming urban development that belies the respected soils and history. The 21-hectare (fifty acre) Caillou estate is named for the pebbly soils that originated from sediments deposited by the nearby Garonne River over thousands of years. Similarly, the prestigious second growth Château Ducru Beaucaillou is named for the beautiful tiny pebbles indicative of the gravelly soil further up the Gironde estuary. 

In 2006, Paulin Calvet took over the daily running of the vineyard. Coming from a long line of Bordeaux wine merchants, Paulin Calvet brought skills and experience he acquired in Libourne at the Jean-Pierre Moueix merchant house where he worked in the company of wine-growing experts Christian Moueix and Jean-Claude Berrouet. Paulin Calvet learned the subtleties of the best practices of vine-growing methods and vinification techniques practised by these two great Bordeaux wine professionals.

The wines of Picque Caillou quickly acquired higher levels of quality and consistency, soon attracting the attention of numerous wine professionals. Joining Paulin Calvet in 2007 were consultant œnologists Professor Denis Dubourdieu and Valérie Lavigne who added further technical experience and skills to the winemaking team. This served to improve the quality of the wines further, producing wines that display balance and delicacy, reflecting the style and character of the prestigious Pessac-Léognan appellation.

The estate is planted to 35% Merlot; 60% Cabernet Sauvignon; and 5% Petit Verdot red varietals, and 80% Sauvignon Blanc, and 20% Sémillon white varietals. Château Picque Caillou Red makes up around 60-70% of the total production, i.e. 65,000 to 80,000 bottles delivered in wooden cases of 12 bottles.

At fourteen years, this may be at its apex, not likely to improve further with aging, but showing no signs of diminution either. As shown, the cork was in perfect condition and the fill level was ideal as well.

At the modest entry level price point for a Grand Vin Bordeaux, in good vintage years this can offer great QPR - Quality Price Ratio, as in such years, 'all boats rise with the tide', resulting in high quality wines at good values. 

This was ruby colored, medium bodied with red and black fruits giving way to rustic, dusty herbs and spices, tobacco, floral notes and a bit of green pepper with tangy moderate tannins on the finish.  

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=512129

http://www.picque-caillou.com/chateau-picque-caillou-pessac-leognan-en/chateau-picque-caillou.html