Friday, September 15, 2023

PureCru (Napa) Lodi Rosso Sangiovese 2017

PureCru (Napa) Lodi Rosso (Sangiovese) 2017

This is from well known California Winemaker, Mitch Cosentino who has been making wines in Northern California since 1980 when at 28 years of age, he began Crystal Valley Cellars, where he produced wines at a winery in Santa Clara and two wineries in Sonoma County before setting up operations in Modesto and later moving to Lockford, producing wines under the Crystal Valley Cellars and Cosentino Select  labels. 

Mitch produced award winning wines winning medals at the Orange County and Los Angeles County fairs in 1982. In 1986 Cosentino won Best of Class and a gold medal at the Los Angeles County Fair for several of his wines bottled under Crystal Valley Cellars. In those early years he sourced most of his grapes from Central Valley vineyards, but later he began sourcing more grapes from vineyards closer to the coast. 

In 1990 Mitch opened Cosentino Winery in Napa Valley which he operated for 20 years, selling out in late 2010. He consulted for the new owners for a few years but is no longer involved, however, his former winery still carries his name, a tribute to his work in developing the property and brand.

PureCru wines released their first wine in 2007, primarily focused on Napa grown wines from local vineyards, however, some of their wines such as this one, are sourced from other parts of Northern California. PureCru wines do not own any vineyards, rather they source the grapes from relationships with premium vineyards that Mitch has developed over his long career in the valley.

“For many years, I had been reminiscing about creating a small, hands-on winery, like I had in the beginning; the result was pureCru where I released my first premium vintage in 2007, says Mitch.” The pureCru label and brand he regards as a “Winemakers Wine Project,” as he is personally involved in every aspect, from the vineyard to the bottle. 

PureCru Wines was originally established as the result of a business partnership between winemaker Cosentino, a grocer broker, a real estate developer and an oncologist, partners that shared mutual interests in winemaking and golf. So, he and the three friends formed pureCru to focus on small lot wines that are handcrafted to be enjoyed on their own or with food. Today, pureCru Wines is owed by the Scotto family, proprietors of Scotto Cellars.

This label is sourced from family owned and operated farmer growers Mohr-Fry Ranches who started back in 1855 with just row crops and over time grew to develop vineyards and farming 12 varieties of wine grapes, 2 varieties of cherries and over 25 varieties of dry heirloom beans. 

The agricultural history of the Mohrs and Frys dates back to the 1850s when Bruce Fry's great-great-grandfather on Jerry's mother's side, Cornelius Mohr left his job on a whaling ship in the port of San Francisco and began a farming operation on a Spanish land grant in Mt. Eden near what later became Hayward. Today Mohr-Fry Ranches farm 12 unique varieties of wine grapes in Lodi in the central valley of California.

With over 165 years of farming in California over 5 generations, Mohr-Fry Ranches consists of 5 properties in the Lodi area. The grow 12 varieties of wine grapes they grow are: (Alicante, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier & Zinfandel). 

I take a little bit of umbrage with the branding of this wine as the label prominently features the "PureCru Napa Valley" logo implying this is a Napa Valley wine consisting of Napa Valley fruit. While they produce several other labels of such wines, this one is sourced from Central Valley fruit from vineyard sources around Lodi.

While this wine is produced and bottled by PureCru Wines that is based in Napa, it is not a Napa Valley wine. This is misleading and takes improper liberties leading consumers to the believe this is a Napa valley product. Only when one reads the rear label is there a reference to Lodi, while both front and rear labels sport the PureCru logo with the word Napa Valley. 

Wine labels are mystifying and confusing enough for consumers without misdirection or misleading information added. I think this is wrong and should be corrected. 

I am surprised Napa Valley folks don't address this since appellation rules cite that for a wine to be labeled "Napa Valley", it must be at least 70% sourced from Napa Valley fruit to bear that designation on the label. Otherwise, this should rightfully be labeled California or some other specific designation. 

No other region in America commands a greater 'tax' or premium on its wine prices than Napa Valley, as witnessed by the escalation in land prices and associated wine prices over the years. That said, its egregious to attach a Napa Valley label to a wine sourced from Central Valley California - especially in light of the specific rules associated with such labeling. 

In any event, I picked up this Sangiovese based wine, albeit California Sangiovese, at the recommendation of wine merchant Michel Chang at Malloy's Finest wine shop in Lisle ((IL). I try to stop in and support him and other local wine merchants as the Chicagoland market becomes more and more dominated by big box wine and beverage super store Binny's who now has 45 outlets and take a larger and larger market share. As their market presence and share increases, their margins and applicable prices and discounts have become increasingly predatory and less consumer friendly. 

Perhaps Cosentino and Purecru were held to task and they corrected their alleged mis-deeds because as I pull up this label on  Cellartracker, the on-line repository of a million labels, I only find 2017 pureCru Rosso di Sangio in which the 'offending' Napa Valley designation is missing.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4761278

Another (the only) Sangiovese label listed on the pureCru website is 2016 Purecru Sangio Vetta. The description states, “Proving that Sangiovese can triumph in Northern California, this small production, 38-month barrel-aged red shows all the charm of old-world acidity and vivid red cherry. Its juicy middle is armed with oregano and chervil, with chalky plum skin tannins and a weaving of salty minerality." - Meridith May - Publisher’s Picks"

Composition: 93% Sangiovese, 7% Merlot Winemaking: Each lot was hand-picked and destemmed where it was fermented and then aged individually, primarily French and eastern European oak barrels for over three years then blended about a month prior to bottling. It is released when it is considered ready for tasting, much like a Brunello. Historically this wine from its hillside vineyard has a potential for developing and complexing for up to two decades.

Tasting Notes: Briary with red and black fruit, rhubarb, and baking spices that tend to dominate upfront. Big structured and intense pomegranate and plum with ripe tannins, minerally mountain characteristics. Brunello style, polish, and balance with depth and long aging future. - Mitch Cosentino, Winemaker

Under the "Wine Specs" for that label, it specifically states, Appellation: Napa Valley.

The Cellartracker community records show nine vintages of this label dating back to 2007. Five vintages show labels, four of which refer to this wine being Napa Valley Sangiovese, except the fifth for the 2007 vintage, which interestingly designates "California Sangiovese". 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2181367

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1332407

Notably, that label logo for PureCru, does not mention Napa Valley. Should this same treatment be applied to this 2017 Rosso label as well?

Other similarly situation and branded PureCru wines and their appellation designations are:

VintageWineAppellation
2015Rosato di Sangio Lodi
2014Purety White MeritageNapa Valley
2013ChardonnayNapa Valley
2012Sangio VettaNapa Valley
2009Pure Coz Red BlendNapa Valley
2017pC VerdelhoLodi
2017pC RosatoLodi
2015pC RossoLodi

I don't know or can't tell the intent, or the outcomes of this branding confusion, so I leave it here. 

Never-the-less, the focus on Sangiovese by Cosentino continue where he writes:

From pureCru "Spotlight on Sangiovesse", 4 wines from 1 grape ... Rosso di Sangio,  Brut Rose, Nuovo, Rosato

From Mitch: "While pureCru Winery is a Napa Valley Winery, occasionally we will acquire grapes from an old Lodi family that has been growing prized fruit for many decades. I first discovered them in the early '90's. I found Mohr-Fry vineyards to be growing grapes to Napa Valley standards. Exceptional quality with excellent balance. I still use several grapes they grow for clients for whom I make wine. And I still use one of their youngest vineyards albeit about 25 years old. The grape is Sangiovese. This vineyard is quite amazing because over the years I have made award-winning Red and Rose wines from these grapes."

This offering is somewhat unique, based on rare American, California (not Napa Valley) Sangiovese. The specific label from this vintage calls this PureCru (Napa Valley) Rosso. The rear label denotes Lodi Sangiovese and mentions the Mohr-Fry vineyard sources. It states the blend is 89% Sangiovese and 11% Alicante Boushete.

Traditional Rosso comes from the Italian designation once called 'Vermiglio' (vermilion), Rosso di Montalcino, a dry, fruity red wine produced in the village of Montalcino in Tuscany. Rosso comes from the same area of origin as the prestigious Brunello di Montalcino, sharing the same Mediterranean climate and also based on 100% Sangiovese. 

In the modern era, Sangiovese is now blended with Bordeaux varietals in the Tuscany region in wines called Super Tuscans, a branding and wine style that has gained much notoriety and become very popular. As noted, this wine is a blend is 89% Sangiovese and 11% Alicante Boushete.

Somewhat opaque garnet colored, medium bodied, notes of black berry and black cherry fruits with tones of tobacco, black tea and hints of smoke and oak with a smooth moderate finish. 

RM 89 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4767044

As noted above, this Cellartracker record and label did not exist until I created it just now. 

https://www.purecruwines.com/

https://www.purecruwines.com/blog/Spotlight-on-Sangiovesse

https://www.mohrfry.com/

https://www.purecruwines.com/Wines

Thursday, September 14, 2023

Robert Craig Spring Mtn Cab with T-Bone Steak

Robert Craig Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon with grilled T-Bone Steak

Linda grilled a T-Bone steak served with baked potatoes, grilled corn with peppers and chopped salad. I pulled from the cellar this aged Napa Spring Mtn Cabernet for the occasion for an ideal food wine pairing. 


Robert Craig Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

We first drank one of our bottles of this label release and wrote about it back in January 2023 when we served it at a Wine Dinner Featuring Spring Mountain Wines. Excerpts from that blogpost here.

This Robert Craig Spring Mountain District Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon label was first released in 2005. It was sourced from the picturesque Joan Crowley vineyard perched at 2000 foot elevation along the summit of Spring Mountain, high above the town of St Helena in the Mayacamas Range that forms the western slope of Napa Valley. The site is primarily dry-farmed, reducing vigor and crop yield resulting in small, flavor-packed berries. 

As I have written often in these pages, (the late) Robert Craig focused on and specialized in hillside and mountain fruit from leading producing regions of Napa including Mt. Veeder, Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain and Diamond Mountain. Add Mt George and Atlas Peak above the town of Napa and you have the four corners of the Napa Valley. He often referred to it as 'four mountains and a valley' in describing his portfolio of Cabernets. 

We hold a vertical collection of Robert Craig Cabernets going all the way back to their inaugural vintage release in 1993. It is one of the largest producer collections in our cellar across seven different labels and three decades of vintages.

While Robert Craig Winery owned many of their vineyard sources, they bought fruit from select vineyards on the various mountains. They worked with Napa Valley based hillside vineyards generally at altitudes of 1,600 feet or higher. 

Robert started his career up on Mt Veeder, initially developing the William Hill vineyard, and then later, at The Hess Collection as their General Manager. In addition, he helped develop 300 vineyard acres on Mt. Veeder for the movie star comedian Robin Williams estate. Robert Craig sourced Cabernet Sauvignon fruit from there for over two decades for the Mt Veeder designated Cabernet label until Robin's passing and the recent sale of the estate and the Pym Rae vineyard to the French Tesseron wine empire Family. Their recent first release label from that property was priced at $350. Robert often said that Mt Veeder was his favorite of his Cabernets. He was instrumental in forming sub appellations for both Mt. Veeder area and Spring Mountain.

We memorialized Robert who passed away a in September 2019 from complications from Parkinson’s disease in this blogpost - Robert Craig Tribute.

The Robert Craig Winery is perched at an elevation of almost 2300 feet high up on Howell Mountain on the north east side of Napa Valley. It is among some of Napa’s highest vineyards. At this elevation they actually see some snow in the winter at times. The location sits above the town of Angwin and their permit at the actual winery limits them to an extremely small number of visitors, as well as only several events per year at the actual winery, hence, they maintain a tasting room in the city of Napa. 

We attended a several tastings and dinners over the years with Robert and Lynn Craig and sometimes staff at numerous various events. 

Some of the highlight over the years were a private dinner with Robert and Lynn at the CIA (Culinary Institute of America), St Helena, back in 1988, another was a private tasting there at the Robert Craig Howell Mountain Estate in 2008, where we also attended the Harvest Party at the estate in 2009.

http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa-09/napa-09-craig/napa_harvest_09_craig.htm

http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa_08/napa_08_craig.htm

My recollection is that I first tasted this Spring Mountain label upon its release during that visit in 2008 (shown above and left). Craig served a comparison tasting against the Mt Veeder and Howell Mountain labels. The Spring Mountain was served from the barrel, and it was my standout favorite, being slightly sweeter than the other two.

 I remember the allocation for Club members was limited to three bottles. I negotiated a mixed case purchase of twelve bottles of the 05, 06 and 07 vintages, the remains of which we're enjoying tonight.  

Robert Craig writes of this label; "The Crowley vineyard is a close fit for our mountain Cabernet portfolio from the highest elevations of Napa Valley. Overlooking St. Helena from its perch at 2,000 feet, this vineyard’s rocky volcanic soil, varied hillside exposures, and moderate climate produce densely concentrated winegrapes. Joan Crowley’s low-yield, biodynamically farmed vineyard has provided us with deep, aromatic and structured wines since our first vintage with it in 2005. The mountain is cooled by afternoon breezes from the nearby Pacific Ocean, creating moderate daytime temperatures and cooler nights that allow grapes to ripen slowly without pushing high alcohol and sugars. The heady, deep perfume that is a Spring Mountain District signature is always present in this cabernet that is hard to come by." 

In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon varietal grapes, Robert Craig also sourced from the Crowley vineyard Bordeaux varietal Petite Verdot.

Robert Craig Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Crowley Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

This release was awarded 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 92 points by Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator, and 17.5/20 by Jancis Robinson.

Parker wrote, "This is a very exciting wine that should drink well for 20-25 years." (RP) 94+  (12/2009)

Production of the 2007 release was a mere 640 cases.

Winemaker notes on Spring Mountain and the Crowley vineyard: "
The Crowley vineyard is a close fit for our mountain Cabernet portfolio from the highest elevations of Napa Valley. Overlooking St. Helena from its perch at 2,000 feet, this vineyard’s rocky volcanic soil, varied hillside exposures, and moderate climate produce densely concentrated wine grapes. The mountain is cooled by afternoon breezes from the nearby Pacific Ocean, creating moderate daytime temperatures and cooler nights that allow grapes to ripen slowly without pushing high alcohol and sugars. for a sense of place that establishes a wine’s unique identity, is the perfect concept to describe the qualities of Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignons." 
 
 At sixteen years, the fill level, foil and most importantly the cork were in pristine condition. The label was only slightly soiled from excess humidity in the cellar at some point.

Dark inky garnet purple colored, full-bodied, complex, dense concentrated full and round blackberry, wild berry and plum fruits with notes of clove spice, smoked meat and cassis and a hint of mint, with a lingering smooth polished finish.

RM 93 points. 

In 2009 Robert Parker wrote that this is a very exciting wine that should drink well for 20-25 years. Wine Enthusiast said this this is a good wine to seek out for the cellar. The producer comments on the 2019 vintage release of this label - "That is to say, it is one of the highest quality red wines to be produced anywhere in the Napa Valley at any price."

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=863547

https://robertcraigwine.com/

https://twitter.com/RobertCraigWine

@RobertCraigWine

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/09/robert-craig-tribute.html

 


Saturday, September 9, 2023

La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904 2015

La Rioja Alta "904 Selección Especial" Gran Reserva Rioja Tempranillo 2015

I attended grandson Reid's soccer game and went over to son Ryan's afterwards where he had open from his wine cellar this Gran Reserva from La Rioja Alta.

Bodega (wine producer) La Rioja Alta dates back to 1890 and is one of the oldest and most traditional Rioja bodega whose range of wines is the most consistent, the most readily available, and among the most highly acclaimed.  

It was founded by five Riojan and Basque families who joined together to form Sociedad Vinicola de la Rioja Alta collective in the Haro Station district.

The company was formed with the merger of the Wineries of producer Don Alfredo Ardanza and La Rioja Alta in 1904, hence the 904 flagship label. Additional properties and subsequent brands were developed in 1940's, 1970's, 1988 and their centennial year 1990. A new winery was built and dedicated in 2000.

Today, La Rioja Alta is one of four brands of wines produced from four winery estates that farm over 2000 acres of vineyards in Northern Spain, each marketed under its own distinct brand.

La Rioja is in the northern Basque region of Spain, an hour south of the Atlantic coastal port of Bilbo, just north of the village or Haro, along the banks of the Ebro River. 

The area La Rioja is known for its production of Rioja DOCa (Spain's version Appellation control system such as AVA in the US, AOC in France, and DOCG in Italy) wines.

Their "904" bottling contains Tempranillo and Graciano (no Garnacha) and is seen as one of the classic traditional historic Rioja Tempranillo labels. 

It sees aging in used American oak barrels for at least 48 months, racking twice a year, and then further aging in bottle. 

La Rioja Alta "904 Selección Especial" Gran Reserva Rioja 2015

This was marked "Selección Especial", the first 904 to do so, reflecting high expectations for this vintage release, believed to be one of the finest vintages so far to date.

This is 90% Tempranillo as the main varietal, with grapes selected from high altitude estate vineyards in Villalba, Briñas and Rodezno, blended with 10% Graciano from the Montecillo vineyard in Fuenmayor.

All the grapes were placed in small boxes and transported in refrigerated vehicles to preserve the integrity of the fruit. 

This vintage was the first that the grapes were optically selected, berry by berry, so only those that met the strictest quality standards were chosen for this wine. 

In January 2016, they selected the finest wines to age them in American oak barrels for an average age of four and a half years, The barrels were made by on site by in-house coopers. It was aged four years in these barrels with traditional racking by hand and candlelight every six months. The final blend was bottled in February 2020 for further bottle aging. 

In January 2022 they decided to delay the release of this wine for another year. The producer felt it was needed and thus gave the wine a little more time in bottle to polish the tannins and then held it until release in March 2023. It was labeled a "Special Selection", the first such designation in the wineries 120 year history.

Winemaker notes: "Perfect as an after-dinner drink. Medium-high robe with an elegant garnet rim. Great aromatic complexity, with notes of wild strawberry, red cherry, plum, blackberry and cranberry combined with aromas of tobacco, brioche, ground coffee, caramel, cedar and cinnamon blossom. The alcohol and acidity are elegantly balanced on the palate and its polished, gentle tannins and freshness provide a smooth and refined mouthfeel. Fine, delicate and very long aftertaste, that will continue to be rounded with time in the bottle, making this new Gran Reserva 904 a wine with great cellaring potential. Subtlety, elegance, finesse, delicacy. Silk.'

"The 2015 vintage was a healthy one with balanced ripeness that delivered wines with good aging potential. It will develop the sophistication in the palate with a little more time and that is should achieve the silkiness that is the signature of 904."

This release was awarded 97 by points James Suckling and Penin Guide, 96 points by Tim Atkin, and 95 points by Wine advocate and Vinous. 

Dark garnet colored with purple rim, medium full bodied, complex, concentrated, full, round black raspberry and bright cherry fruits are accented by a layer of expressive sweet oak showing that four years of oak aging, with notes of sweet tobacco, spice and herbs with bits of vanilla and smoke with fine tannins on the oak laced fruity long, polished finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4145613

https://www.riojalta.com/en/wines_rioja-alta/gran-reserva-904/

https://www.riojalta.com/

https://www.binnys.com/wine/red-wines/tempranillo/la-rioja-alta-gran-reserva-146456

https://twitter.com/LaRiojaAltaSA

Wednesday, September 6, 2023

Siduri Pinot Noir at Catch 35 Naperville

Siduri Pinot Noir at Catch 35 Naperville     

Finishing a successful real estate closing, we had a mini-celebration dinner at Catch-35, the local Naperville location of this seafood eatery, not to be confused with their downtown Chicago locale. 

We selected this restaurant despite the tremendous seafood entree at nearby La Sorella the week before last. We feel a bit duty bound to support this establishment as it seems to be lacking a bit in support and we would hate to lose it as a fine dining option in our community. They have another sister restaurant in the city downtown Chicago. 

The vibe in the restaurant is a bit benign, serene, bordering on comatose - a feeling perhaps exacerbated by the dim lighting and perhaps drap, somewhat dated decorating. I feel I am being overly harsh here but I don't know how else to describe it.  We joked that it has an 'old folks' vibe and indeed, it seemed to be an older clientele. 

In any event, the service was exemplary, professional, pleasant, knowledgeable and attentive. Admittedly, one of the drivers for us selecting Catch-35 on a Wednesday night was their half price offer on specified wines. Scouring the on-line winelist as we explored dining options, I found a suitable candidate for dinner worth exploring, and a great value in light of the special offering.  

Once on-site and seated, we ordered the wine featured on their on-line web winelist, and lo and behold, it was no longer available. This is precisely why I typically, often, ask two questions of our server when dining in a restaurant with a winelist; 1) do you have all the wines featured on the winelist? and 2) are there any other wines on offer not shown on the wine list. Typically the answer is yes, and no. Occasionally, a server will qualify that certain labels are no longer available. Or, the server will check on the status of any potential new arrivals. Once in a while some great surprises are discovered! 

Tonight, we settled on an alternate, second choice wine selection. Our server was very apologetic and upon pressing the wine director, offered us a complimentary dessert, to make up for the shortcoming. A nice gesture and much appreciated. 

The wine selection was going to drive my entree choice and the redirection forced a change in my dinner plans as well. For our entrees, Linda selected the Charbroiled Oysters with house herb butter, parmesan cheese and charred lime.

 
I ordered the Pan Seared Alaskan Halibut with Spiced Asian Marinade and Cauliflower gratinee. From the description, I was concerned about the "spiced" marinade description to complement the white fish. I had the forsight to inquire, and as a result, I ordered a cup of the Buerre Blanc Sauce, the accompaniment to the other seafood entree, and asked that the Spiced Marinade be served on the side.


In the end, asking for the "Spiced Marinade sauce" be served on the side, and asking for a cup of the Buerre Blanc Sauce proved to be a saving grace for my dinner. Linda described the original sauce to that from Buffalo Wild Wings, more akin to Buffalo Chicken Wings sauce. The Beurre Blanc sauce was thick and a bit heavy, the consistency of tapioca, rather than a buttery white wine lemon sauce, that I imagine. In any event, it was a good prescient call.

Perhaps not a fair fight, but we couldn't help but keep comparing, and lamenting, the Pan Seared Alaskan Halibut to the extraordinary and delicious Halibut Ippoglosso al Limone* - sautéed halibut with lemon white wine sauce, capers and sautéed spinach, Linda had at neighboring La Sorrella restaurant a couple weeks earlier. 

The Catch 35 (N) winelist is somewhat limited and uninspiring, which made the lack of our desired selection even more frustrating and challenging. The few desirable bottles that I would otherwise normally select, we've already had during past visits to the restaurant. (A week later, the on-line wine listing is still incorrect and out of date, offering the bottle that is no longer available, and showing an older vintage three years earlier than the one actually served for our back-up bottle). 

Hence, for our wine pairing selection, we chose the Siduri Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir - one of a broad selection of labels from this producer. 

Once served, despite their whole wall wine cooler, the wine was served at restaurant room temperature, much warmer than desired - most certainly stored in the wine wall, rather than the wine cooler. We prefer our wines served at cellar temperature at least (58F), and ideally, several degrees cooler, slightly above refridgerator temp. Our server provided us a stone wine cooler to help 'chill' our wine.  

Catch 35-N (dining room) wine wall

Catch 35-N wine cooler

Siduri Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir 2021 (not the 2018 as published and promoted)

Siduri is named for the Babylonian goddess of wine, homage to,and the result of the founders' Adam and Dianna Lee's mutual love of Pinot Noir, and a shared dream to make their own great wines. 

In pursuit of that dream Adam Lee and Dianna Novy left their native Texas and moved to the Sonoma County wine country and spent years working at small, family-owned wineries, using any and all free time learning everything they could about growing grapes and making wine.

Adam and Dianna founded Siduri Wines in 1994 starting with just four and a half barrels of Pinot Noir that first vintage. Today, production has grown to over 10,000 cases annually of Pinot Noir crafted by Winemaker, Matt Revelette. The portfolio offers over 20 single-vineyard and appellation expressions of Pinot Noir from West Coast vineyard sites stretching from Santa Barbara County, Santa Rita Hills and Santa Lucia Highlands AVAs., to the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, to Willamette Valley in Oregon. 

They source their grapes through long-term relationships with some of the West’s most sought-after growers and vineyards, and have arrangements to purchase the majority of their fruit by the acre rather than the ton.

Each Pinot Noir is crafted with the goal of reflecting the unique terroir of each particular vineyard. Siduri Wines and its sibling, Novy Family Wines have received the Wine Spectator's New York Wine Experience "Critics Choice" recognition a combined seven times since 2004.

Winemaker notes - "Siduri explores two exceptional areas within Santa Barbara County that are exceptionally well-suited for growing Pinot Noir - Santa Maria Valley and the Sta. Rita Hills. Pinot Noirs from the Santa Maria Valley provide "crunchy" fresh fruits that are laden with spice notes, while Pinot Noirs from the Sta. Rita Hills provide opulent red and black fruits that jump from the glass with tremendous energy. The marriage of these two distinctive growing areas provides a portrait of a beautiful place to grow cool-climate Pinot Noir. The 2021 vintage provided tremendous freshness and ample acidity - a vintage that will age beautifully.'

"Each vineyard section was vinified separately, with pumpovers being used on the Santa Maria Valley fruit and punch downs on the Sta. Rita Hills. The 2021 vintage provided tremendous freshness and ample acidity - a vintage that will age beautifully."

Garnet colored with a slight brownish hue, medium bodied, black plum, black cherry and black raspberry fruits are accented by notes of black tea, dusty rose, dried cranberry, spice, herbs and hints of anise on the dusty finish with medium acidity.

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4468328

https://www.siduri.com/wines/2021-santa-barbara-county-pinot-noir

For our gratis dessert I had the Flourless Chocolate Lava Cake - Chocolate hazelnut center - crème anglaise - raspberry sauce -crushed hazelnuts. This begged for more tangible raspberry sauce.

And Linda had for a revenue dessert, the Sticky Toffee Pudding Cake - Toffee pieces – Crumbled dates - butter caramel sauce. This was especially delectable.

Both were highlights of the meal.

https://catch35.com/

Sunday, September 3, 2023

Labor Day Family Cook-out features some classic collectable wines

Labor Day Family Cook-out features some old and new classic collectable wines

Son Alec and d-in-law Viviana hosted a Labor Day Holiday family cookout that provided an opportunity for a gala family get-together that included all our kids and grand-kids. 


Alec and Viv (below) prepared grilled tenderloin that they served as small bites on artisan bread. Here shown are Alec and sister Erin. Everyone chipped in and brought a salad or dessert or other.

Our three sons.

Ryan and I both brought a classic collectable or highly allocated special wine.

I took from our cellar this aged vintage collectable Marilyn Merlot in tribute to their daughter, grand-daughter Marylin. This follows taking another aged vintage bottle of this label to their cookout just a couple weeks ago. That bottle, from the 2005 vintage surpassed my expectations so I was eager to try another vintage, and continue to enjoy this fun collectable wine with Alec and Viv and the rest of the clan.

Ryan brought from his cellar this special, very limited release highly allocated Sta Rita Hills Pinot Noir

Alec prepared grilled tenderloin of steak that he served as small bites on artisan bread. There were numerous salads and accompaniments followed by a broad selection of desserts. 

Domaine De La Côte Sta Rita Hills Bloom's Field Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014

Ryan brought this very special selection rare, highly allocated bottle he acquired at auction.

Domaine de la Côte translates to 'Estate of the Slope' and is an estate of sixty acres in the Santa Rita Hills wine region planted to a collection of six vineyards planted over forty acres on the furthest western edge of the Sta. Rita Hills appellation in Santa Barbara County. 

The vineyards, as shown on the rear label (shown left): Memorious (3.5 acres), Bloom’s Field (7.5 acres), Siren’s Call (3 acres), Clos Juliet (1 acre), La Côte (9.5 acres), and 15.5 acres of appellation Sta. Rita Hills. 

The property rises to an elevation of 700 feet above the Santa Ynez River, lying on an ancient 25 million year old siliceous (silex) and diatomaceous seabed 7 miles from the Pacific Ocean.

Although the Domaine spans a mere forty acres, the diversity of its climats or unique terroir of each vineyard is staggering: each with a unique geology, aspect, elevation and microclimate. Such distinct expression of site, or terroir, in such close proximity, is unparalleled in California. 

A source of superior California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills is a relatively new AVA (Agricultureal Viticulture Area). It is the coolest, westernmost sub-region of the larger Santa Ynez Valley appellation within Santa Barbara County. The climate of Sta. Rita Hills is a natural match for Chardonnay and Pinot noir, thanks to the crisp ocean breezes and well-drained, limestone-rich calcareous soil allowing the vines and grapes to ripen optimally, while retaining brisk acidity and harmonious balance. 

Winemaker Sashi Moorman discovered the site and with Chris King developed several former Evening Land vineyards in the far western Santa Rita Hills in 2007. Under his direction, the vineyards were planted entirely to California heritage selections at extremely high vine densities between 4,000 and 7,000 vines per acre, unprecedented at the time for the appellation. Sashi Moorman along with Raj Parr  purchased the property at the beginning of 2013.

The Domaine was purchased by Moorman and superstar sommelier-turned-winemaker Rajat Parr, who sources grapes from his estate in the Sta. Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County. Rajat Parr was the 2017 James Beard Foundation “Who’s Who Award” Winner, joining a short and impressive list of wine industry luminaries including Kermit Lynch, Marvin Shanken, Larry Stone, and Jim Clendenen.

When not in the vineyards, he’s been writing his second book, The Sommelier’s Atlas of Taste: A Field Guide to the Great Wines of Europe (Ten Speed Press, 2018), with co-author Jordan Mackay.

The La Côte vineyard covers a steep southeast-facing hillside on the leeward slope of the domaine. Unimpeded by the persistent continuous winds that confront the continguous Bloom’s Field parcel located to the west, and the Memorious vineyard plot to the south,  La Côte enjoys more optimal pollination and less shatter. The vineyard possesses the most heterogeneous soils of the estate: its bedrock varies from Monterey Shale to Diatomaceous Earth to alluvium, and the associated soils range from shallow and rocky with a covering of broken stones, to rich downslope.

The Domaine organically farms its vineyards and makes its wines with the philosophy of “add nothing; take nothing away.” All the wines are produced and bottled at the winery in the town of Lompoc in Santa Barbara County, three miles from the domaine.

Domaine De La Côte Bloom’s Field Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2014 

Ryan acquired this very special highly allocated bottle at auction and brought it to share.

This wine gained widespread critical acclaim and notoriety through coverage on the wine documentary, Somm 3, the latest installment in the documentary series that explores the world of sommeliers (wine professionals). It featured legendary wine industry experts and veterans Fred Dame, Jancis Robinson and Steven Spurrier, in conjunction with the next generation of primarily New York-based influencers that include Aldo Sohm, Laura Fiorvanti (nee Maniec), Pascaline Lepeltier and Sabato Sagaria.

The series featured biographical sketches of the participants and wine topics including arguments over the merits of blind tasting. The film spoke about the concept of tastings inspired by the famous 1976 Judgment of Paris that was the break-out for the American wine industry when, in that famous blind tasting, California wines outshined their French counterparts, setting the stage for the modern wine marketplace. 

In this series feature, they discuss Pinot Noir as the wine in question, rather than Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon which were the basis of the historical tasting. The show featured two separate tastings of six Pinots from acclaimed producers from around the world. Included was this 2014 Bloom’s Field bottling by Domaine de la Côte. Some of the judges considered it on par with, if not more “Burgundian,” than two celebrated wines from Burgundy!

Winemakers' notes: The 2014 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir is composed from declassified parcels and barrels of La Côte, Bloom’s Field, and Memorious vineyards. La Cote is from all 4 parts of the 9 acre vineyard parcel. La Cote lies behind a massive cliff of diatomaceous earth and is protected from the direct influence of the cold marine air from the pacific ocean. With its south-east exposition the vineyard absobs the energy of the morning sun and the exposed shale quickly warms the vines from the night time chill. The wine seems to have dark fruits on the nose with aromas of black cherry, sandalwood cola and sage. Like Bloom’s Field, La Cote is fermented with 100% whole bunches and aged for 20 months in 20% new Ermitage barrels. La Cote takes longer to open us. Decanting or ageing for 10+ years will greatly reward those with patience and cool cellars."

Winemakers' Notes: "The 2014 bottling was fermented with roughly 50% whole bunches and small amount of new oak used in the élevage. This wine has a pale red color with perfumed flavors of bing cherry, all spice and leather. The wine is open, softly textured, and finishes with silky tannins. We believe the wines have a long life in the bottle if properly cellared and should develop aromas and flavors of great complexity over the next 7+ years."

Decanter awarded this release 97 points and named it their top California Pinot from the 2014 vintage. Pundit Natalie MacLean scored this release 96/100, while this vintage release was awarded 93 points by Vinous, 92 points by John Gilman and 18/20 points by Jancis Robinson. 

1,020 cases were produced.

This was bright ruby colored, medium bodied, smooth texture, harmonius and balanced, red berry fruits with dusty rose petal, cinnamon and earthy spices and herb tones, turning to fine-grained tannins, tangy acidity and grip on the long, complex and nicely balanced finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2409152

https://domainedelacote.com/


Nova Wines Marilyn Merlot 2007

I published a blogpost last month about an earlier Family Cookout at which I brought another vintage of aged Nova Wines "Marilyn Merlot" Napa Valley Merlot with grilled beefsteak. As I wrote at that time, we have fun with this wine as a fun tribute to Alec and Viv's daughter, our grand-daughter Marylin.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/08/marilyn-merlot-with-grilled-beefsteak.html

I've written extensively in these pages about Marilyn Merlot and Norma Jean Wines - A Study in Branding  including a blogpost back in 2021 about the brand and our fun collecting the label, especially now that we have a similarly named grand-daughter!

I've written in these pages before about wine geeks, aka oenophiles, often take their passion for wine way too seriously, or certainly so, to those not so compulsive or fixated, which is most folks. Its important to back it down and simply have fun with wine too.

This blog focuses on wine tasting and collecting. Another discussion thread is a study in wine branding and marketing. Several producers release an artist series with each label featuring a piece of artwork to adorn that vintage release. 

One unique approach to wine branding and marketing is Marilyn Wines, of the entity Nova Wines, who since 1985, have featured iconic imagines of Marilyn Monroe, captured by many of the most talented portrait photographers of her era, to grace the labels of their Marilyn Merlot and Norma Jeane wines. 

In addition to Marilyn Merlot, Norma Jean is a lesser label with 'younger' second label grapes. Continuing the whimsical play on names, Norma Jean features a photograph taken of the young actress in the years just before she captured the imagination of the American public as Marilyn Monroe.

They have created an entire franchise on one celebrity identification theme based on a play on words - Marilyn Merlot featuring the iconic starlet Marilyn Monroe. Marilyn Wines holds an exclusive agreement with the estate of Marilyn Monroe for the use of the name and the images in their wine marketing and packaging.

The brand is the creation of Bob and Donna Holder of Rutherford in Napa Valley, who initially crafted a homemade Merlot back in 1983 using some purchased grapes and some grapes from the Holder property. They started selling their wine and created the brand.  In the early days, they purchased bulk wine, then, in 1997, they shifted from purchasing bulk wine to purchasing grapes. The wine is made at the Napa Wine Co. in Oakville, CA.

Marilyn Wines has extended the brand to a broad portfolio of labels based on Marilyn Monroe. The portfolio has expanded to also include Marilyn Meritage, Sauvignon Blond, Marilyn Cabernet, Red Dress and Blonde de Noirs, a sparkling wine. 

Building upon the collectables theme, they also produce an ultra premium Velvet Collection based upon a photo session on May 27, 1949 in Hollywood with photographer Tom Kelley. That two-hour photo shoot made history and established the aspiring but unknown actress, Marilyn Monroe as the ultimate sex symbol of the 20th century. The series features ten stunning photographs from the historic session, known as the "Red Velvet" series, each one a portrait of Marilyn Monroe posing on a red velvet drape. Each label of Velvet Collection of wine is covered with a protective vinyl overlay that, when removed, reveals the complete, original portrait.

Continuing the collectables theme, in many vintages, they also produce special process etched and painted bottles of Marilyn Merlot in limited production large format bottles, usually around 6 to 36 bottles of 1.5 Liter magnums and 2 to 10 bottles of 3 Liter double magnums. The bottles are placed in a sand carving cabinet where the artist utilizes instruments to hand carve out the design image on each of the bottles then to be hand painted. 

The brand has grown further with the release of Marilyn Merlot Rose and Marilyn Monroe Chardonnay.  For 2021, they also offer 2021 Marilyn Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley.

Of course the most famous or notable iconic collector series based on wine labels is the ultra-premium luxury French first Growth Chateau Mouton Rothschild. A study in wine branding and marketing at some point invites a discussion of art label series featuring original or reproductions of notable art or artists on the wine labels. No wine producer in the world captures the imagination or attention of wine collectors and wine art enthusiasts more than Mouton Rothschild with their annual artist series artist featured wine labels.

Each year a renowned artist is commissioned to do the artwork for that vintage. The featured artist is said to be paid ten cases of various vintages of the classic Chateau Mouton Rothschild for their work. Every collector dreams of collecting a 'vertical' collection (wines of multiple vintages of the same wine) of the classic premium First Growth Bordeaux to display the 'artwork' of Mouton.

My Winesite Label Library lists the Mouton Rothschild Label Library Series Artists and associated works by the artists for reference or to aid in further exploration or research of the library and its history. Just last month I updated the library with the 2018 release label of the legendary wine. 

As with Mouton Rothschild, I've assembled a portfolio of Marilyn labels in my label library on my winesite

As of this writing, the latest release available in Chicagoland stores in the 2018 and 2019 vintage releases of Marilyn Merlot, the 35th and 36th vintages of the iconic brand. Also available is the 2018 Norma Jeane, the 23st vintage of the Norma Jeane brand.
 
The Nova Marilyn Wines website is offering on-line the 2021 Marilyn Merlot, 2021 Marilyn Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley, and 2021 Norma Jeane and 2020 Marilyn Merlot.

Playing on the name of the famous cinema starlet, Marilyn Monroe, the marketers at Nova Wines have  built the brand on an annual release of moderate priced Merlot varietal featuring an authentic Marilyn Monroe photo on the label. Each year the new vintage and label is released on June 1, Marilyn Merlot's birthday! What might have started out as a whimsical or even corny idea has turned into a fun wine that has an almost cult following in some precincts of collectors. 
 
Some of our close to two dozen vintages of Marilyn Merlot

The producer tries to maintain a delicate balance and moderate the hype of the collectability of the wine and the valuation of bottles over time versus the novelty and fun of the wine. It appears they've earnestly worked to improve the pedigree and quality of the product to produce a wine more worthy of and capable of long (er) term cellaring by sourcing from notable vineyard sources and producing a Red Bordeaux varietal blend. As such, the release price of the wine has crept up in recent years as well. As it has been since the 2018 release, that year's release price is $40 and the 'street price' has followed accordingly. This year's current release (2021) and last years (2020) are currently $45 from the producer.
However, in secondary markets, the price can be elevated even above the release price.

The producer site says, "Each new vintage of Marilyn Monroe Merlot sells out quickly. While collectors have made Marilyn Monroe Merlot one of the fastest-appreciating wines on the market, it is wine enthusiasts with a sense of humor who have long enjoyed the playful spirit behind Marilyn Merlot wines that are now also seeking the Marilyn Monroe Merlot because of the emphasis on making a notable wine from prized Napa Valley grapes. While the concept and engaging label of these wines has given these bottles a degree of fame, it is the wine in the bottle that merits the enthusiasm of those who seek it out every year.'

"This wine is every bit as special as its package," says Donna Holder, one of the owners of Marilyn Wines. "It is a must for collectors, but is also a Napa Valley Merlot that stands beautifully on its own."

The producer promotes highly escalated prices for vintage bottles of the label asking high prices that far exceed the pedigree of the wine, explicable only due to the marketing/branding of the label collection. I know of one reputable wine shop in a mid-size midwestern city that a few years ago held a 1985 Marilyn Merlot that they were offering at $3500.

I've assembled a portfolio of Marilyn labels in my label library on my winesite. And, I admit I've collected a 'vertical' collection of the wine and am still holding what now spans more than fifteen vintages. Indeed, we drank a dozen year old 2006 recently and it was drinking quite nicely. We do have fun gifting these wines to friends for suitable occasions, great for those not into the wine so much, but taken by the clever packaging. The Marilyn Merlot label is now in its 35th  year.

After that tasting of the 2005 vintage that exceeded my expectations, tonight I brought and we opened and drank the 2007 vintage release Marilyn Merlot.  

Marilyn Merlot 2007

This was the 23rd release of this iconic label. Like other releases, the grapes were sourced from "some of the finest vineyards in the heart of Napa Valley", and "this vintage was produced in one of California's oldest wineries."

Producer notes about this release:

"Diamonds may still be a girl's best friend, but in challenging times an outstanding Napa Valley Merlot that appreciates in value year after year offers a safe and savory haven for wine collectors and connoisseurs alike.'

"Frankswine.com of Franks Union Wine Mart said, "A collector's and connoisseur's Merlot!  This is a very drinkable wine, not just something to be collected by her fans, but by people who enjoy what's going on inside the artful bottle as well.  This wine will continue to improve with age..."

"With the release of the Marilyn Merlot 2007 on June 1st (Marilyn's birthday) a Napa Valley icon continues to offer its fans not just glamour but great value, too. "Marilyn Merlot wines are known to appreciate in value with most selling for several times their original price" notes Bob Holder, one of the owners of Marilyn Wines. "They offer great value as fine Napa Valley wines on release, and they evolve and appreciate with age."

That said, this release is offered from the producer's library at an offer price of $160 for a standard sized bottle, $600 for a etched 1.5 liter magnum, and for $800 for a three liter large format etched image bottle wherein "Each bottle is carefully masked, hand etched and hand painted, resulting in a truly unique work of art on this 2007 (1.5 liter) 3 Liter Marilyn Merlot."

"The 2007 vintage of Marilyn Merlot continues this tradition and promises glamorous evenings of enjoyment to its many fans." 

About this release, Stephanie of Champion Wine Cellars wrote:

"More than Pretty Labels! Stephanie on Mar 01, 2021'

"Wanted to report that we actually drank a bottle of the 2007 Norma Jean. We know the Marilyn wines are sound and generally a pleasure to drink.'

"This was above and beyond! A lovely surprise. Bright and rich with a full middle palate and complex, extended finish! The bottle had sediment caked on the glass (from being on its side in one spot). Wine was dense, but well-balanced with cedary and blueberry jam aromas. We drank it over 3 days and it did not lose any character by the end of the bottle.'

"2007 was an exceptional vintage, and the Tallerico Vineyard near Lodi produced a wine with good aging potential. This goes to show that these wines are more than pretty labels!"

Interestingly, more wine reviews speak to the collect-ability and potential appreciation of the bottles, rather than the wine itself. Indeed, "The Vintage Stuff Store" writes as a caveat on its page featuring this wine, "The wine has been meticulously stored but serves ultimately for its collectable beauty and not necessarily for its drinkability. There is no guarantee for the wine itself, but the bottle and label are in perfect condition."

But alas, as posted on the header of these pages, this blogpost is all about, "Enjoying wine - perspectives on wine buying, collecting, tasting, a study in wine marketing & branding; observations, experiences and ruminations of a winegeek & frequent traveler. Sharing so others can 'unwindwine' for greater wine discovery, understanding and appreciation."

While we collect and study wine, we also like to drink it, and observe how (certain) wines age and reach a peak then diminish as they reach the end of, and beyond their drinking window. Many, all age-worthy wines follow a bell shaped curve of improving with age, then eventually diminishing. The height and length of that curve is subject to the quality, depth, breadth, structure and chemistry of what is in the bottle. And, that curve will be different for each wine, and for each vintage of each wine. 

Hence, for the benefit of collectors, those that may be holding similar bottles, I focus on, and report on the 'fill level' of the bottle, and the condition of the cork, as each diminishes with age at some point. The fill level and condition of the foil and label affect the collect-ability value of the wine.

This 2007, at sixteen years of age, the fill level of the bottle, the condition of the foil and label, and most importantly, the cork were all in ideal, pristine condition. The wine was drinkable, even enjoyable, but clearly reaching the end of its ideal drinking window.

The wine was garnet colored, with some purple, with some bricking and orange, brown - rust hues beginning to set in, yet, after a half hour, the dark berry and black cherry fruits emerged to reveal themselves, with notes of dusty, earthy leather, some dried tobacco leaf, black tea and hints of cedar under the surface. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=741423

https://www.marilynwines.com/product/2007-Marilyn-Merlot

https://www.marilynwines.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/08/marilyn-merlot-with-grilled-beefsteak.html