Saturday, February 25, 2023

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night - 2023

 OTBN - Open That Bottle Night - 2023

The last Saturday in February brings the annual OTBN wine event – Open That Bottle Night – the 24th such event since its creation in 2000 by Dorothy Gaither and John Brecher wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal.

And, for the twelfth straight year, since 2011, members of our Pour Boys (TM) wine group assembled to share and compare special bottles of wine, that have been held in our cellars, waiting for the special occasion to open, so as to eventually succumb to the inevitable, its time, open that bottle (to)night!

As is becoming our custom, we’re starting to follow the seasons, and congregate in the south during the winter, and the north during the other seasons. As such, we gathered again at Bill and Beth C’s in Charleston, SC for this years' gala.

This year’s event was hosted by Bill and Beth C at their home on Seabrook Island, SC. The Saturday night OTBN dinner was held at the Seabrook Island Clubhouse Ashley Room private dining room. 

 

Several members were not able to attend due to family and other commitments but we'll look forward to having them participate in our other scheduled events this spring, summer and fall, back in Chicago-land.

This year, while we defy any theme other than the spirit of OTBN, we narrowed some of our selections to a couple of vintages, since we all have rather deep and broad cellar collections that offer at times perhaps an overwhelming range of choices.

To that end we brought a couple mini horizontals - multiple labels from the same vintage - a selection of 1995 Napa Cabernets and one of 2015 vintage premium Chardonnays - Mayacamas Napa Valley Mt Veeder and Sea Smoke Santa Barbara County Santa Rita Hills.

The Chardonnays from two of our favorite producers were an ideal comparison tasting of two diverse contrasting styles, and perfect accompaniment to the Seabrook Club Sea Scallops and the Salmon entree selections. 

We tasted the Mayacamas wine at the estate winery with Bill and Beth during our Mayacamas Mt Veeder Napa Valley Winery Visit during our Spring 2011 Napa Valley Mt Veeder Wine Experience. Both Bill and Dan are collectors as members of the Sea Smoke wine club and source this iconic premium label.
 

 
The Napa Valley Cabernet Savignon Horizontal flight from 1995. 
 

This year, a few new designations or declarations emerged, perhaps for the future. From our selection of a dozen and a half bottles of wine, to be enjoyed over the course of the weekend, not just limited to the Saturday evening gala, we discovered, or decreed some new notables or mentions from our wine flight.

The Highest Achievement or Achiever award, or recognition went to Freemark Abbey Bosche’ Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1995. This wine stood our from the other two similarly situated labels – same grape varietal, same vintage, similar or neighboring proximity appellations.

The also rans were Del Dotto Napa Valley Rutherford appellation Cabernet Sauvignon, and Plumpjack Reserve Oakville Cabernet.

The Del Dotto probably was most predicable, meeting or pretty much living up to expectations, consistent with my earlier recollections. Folks thought it had a mustiness to it that I attributed to Del Dotto's preponderance of oak. 

We visited the estate together during out Del Dotto Rutherford Cave Tour and Barrel Tasting during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017.

Reading my earlier tasting notes on this label, indeed I cited the preponderance of oak in the tasting profile when I wrote in 2011, "Only starting to show a hint of age but still life left in this sixteen year old - dark garnet color, medium-full bodied, oak predominates the taste accented by spicy black cherry, berry, plum and cedar with hint of leather, cigar box and vanilla with well-integrated tannins on a long complex finish." RM 91 points. 

Like tonight, this was consistent with my previous tasting fifteen months earlier in 2010. "Starting to show a hint of age but lots of life left in this fifteen year old - oak predominates the taste accented by spicy black cherry, berry, plum and hint of vanilla , with smooth polished well-integrated tannins on a long complex finish."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=890767

The Plumpjack, being the Reserve single vineyard designated bottling from McWilliams Mt Eden vineyard, probably underachieved, especially when considering the lofty expectations set by the producer at the winery when they pressed to supplement or top up our holdings for a mere $700+ per bottle.

We tasted and acquired this wine during our first visit to the Plumpjack estate back in 1999 when we actually hosted winemaker May Pisor for a winemaker dinner with our wine group at Meadowood Country Club in Napa (right).

The Freemark Abbey Bosche' was full, round, complex, yet polished and elegant, showing no signs of diminution whatsoever after 28 years, and was even better the next evening!  It showed very similar profile and characteristics as the TOR, below. This is not surprising perhaps since the Bosche' vineyard is adjacent to the Beckstoffer ToKalon vineyard

Once again, perhaps this should not have been a surprise. Tonight's tasting notes are remarkably consistent with my previous tasting of this label nine years earlier when I wrote: "At a horizontal tasting of Napa Cabernets, this label proved to be one of, if not the tasting highlight (s) of the evening. My own Cellartracker notes and rating from 9/2/2013, about eleven months ago accurately apply to tonight's tasting - I wrote: "An eye-opening standout of th(at)e evening featuring a horizontal tasting of five 95 vintage Napa Cabs, this was medium to full bodied with bright vibrant forward ripe plum and black raspberry fruits accented by tones of currant, clove, hints of vanilla and sweet oak with smooth polished silky tannins on the finish. Lots of life left in this eighteen year old." 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=780698

These were great comparisons and accompaniments to the Seabrook Club filets of beef entrees. 

While interesting, and somewhat complex, the Plumpjack was what I will politely call, delicate, subdued in its nuances, certainly a style and profile very different from the boisterous blustery bold fruit bombs we so often favor and enjoy – more akin the style of some of our other highly regarded selections, below.

Perhaps the most highly acclaimed or rated bottle of the evening (WOTN- Wine of the Night) was the Bacchus label by Joseph Phelps, brought by Dan from his wine club vertical collection of this label. Our visit, private tour and Joseph Phelps Napa Spring Valley Winery Tasting was one of the highlights of our Napa Valley Wine Experience together in 2017.

Next in line might be the TOR To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon predominant Cuvee' Bordeaux varietal blend. This is produced by vintner and proprietors Tor and Susan Kenwood, part of a portfolio of a dozen labels of single vineyard designated wines sourced from some of the premier vineyards across Napa Valley and crafted by Winemaker Jeff Ames. 

This label is sourced from six blocks of 83 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and two blocks of Cabernet Franc from the world renowned To Kalon vineyard. To Kalon owned by Andy Beckstoffer provides under grower/producer contracts, fruit for some of the most storied labels in Napa Valley such as Opus One. It is sited across Highway 29, St Helena Highway, from that property, adjacent and behind Robert Mondavi Winery, up against the Mayacamas foothills. It is also source for the Poetic Justice label below.

Here is where the surprise of the evening, or weekend emerges. 'Hooray for Bosche,’ the single vineyard designated label from long-time favored and widely held and collected producer Freemark Abbley. Wine buddy Bill holds an extensive collection of this producer, followed by me, with labels dating back three decades. These pages are filled with comparison tastings of these labels over the years between Bill and me. 

We also made a discovery of a new label (to us), Poetic Justice from the Bounty Hunter, from a collection from the producer that Bill acquired as part of a winning bid at a fund raising charity auction. Lucky us, as this was an exciting new label/producer discovery, perhaps a new category for us for future wine tastings. 

This was released negociant style by Bounty Hunter, notable long time Napa Valley reseller of super premium boutique and bespoke wines. This label release was a collaborative project with legendary winemaker Philip Melka crafted from fruit sourced from the To Kalon vineyard. We've acquired several super labels from him over the years and have attended a couple premier tastings currated by him.

Bill's Cellartracker notes for this tasting that captured this perfectly. "Wow! What a pleasant surprise. This was full of red fruit, raspberry and cherry. Full bodied with well integrated tannins. This was delicious on a pop and pour basis. 73% Cabernet Franc and 24% Cabernet Sauvignon. All the flavor was there and plenty of body. Missing a little complexity and depth but really delicious." WCC 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1443207


Lyle brought from his cellar the Dissident from Mark Ryan. We tasted this and the Poetic Justice in a run up to the dinner. This exceeded expectations, providing a very nice complex but balanced approachable wine for casual sipping in the afternoon with cheeses and fruits.

Mark Ryan wines are the artwork of Mark Ryan McNeilly, a self taught winemaker who learned the craft working with well known producers, acquiring Bordeaux varietal grapes from renowned vineyards in the Columbia Valley Red Mountain appellation. He produces an extensive portfolio of wines from across the region, but is most notably known for several art crafted Bordeaux Blends.

We discovered, tasted and acquired this wine when we visited and conducted a Mark Ryan Columbia Valley Wine Tasting in his Woodinville, Washington tasting room during our Seattle Culinary and Washington Wine Tour in 2018.
 
Today's tasting was consistent with my notes from that experience: "Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, dark berry, black currant and black cherry fruits are accented with notes of spice, mocha and hints of cedar with subtle tannins on a lingering finish." RM 91 points. 
 

The closing wine flight for the dinner, and over the weekend, was a collection of dessert wines and a big brawny Aussie shiraz, the premium Clarendon Hills Astrallis label, best suited for the after dinner chocolate course.


The weekend featured several selections of artisan cheeses, charcuterie, fresh fruits and assorted nuts, biscuits and crackers. 

 


What fun, and how ironic that our long favored cheese purveyor, Murray's Cheese, where we shopped and dined at their wine and cheese shop and restaurant wine and cheese bar in Greenwich Village in NYC numerous times over the years, was subsequently acquired by Kroger, and as such, their artisan cheeses are now available here at home at our local Mariano's, and down in South Carolina and their local Harris Teeter, as well as at specialty wine and cheese shops! 

And the Dow Vintage Port and Astrallis with Chocolate cake! Recognition for Linda's birthday (and my recent retirement).

 
The wine flight for this year’s events:

Chateau Leoville Barton St Julien Bordeaux 1986 - we'll hold this as part of a vertical or horizontal for an upcoming event.

Mark Ryan Dissident Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

The trio horizontal wine tasting of 1995 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons

-        Del Dotto Rutherford Napa Valley Estate

-        Freemark Abbey Bosche' Vineyard from Oakville Appellation

-        Plumpjack Reserve Oakville McWilliams Mt Eden Vineyard

Joseph Phelps Bacchus Oakville Cabernet 2012

A duo of Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Oakville Cabernet Sauvignons

Bounty Hunter Poetic Justice 2009
TOR 2009 from magnum

Beringer Private Reserve Napa Valley Cab 2008

And the dessert, cheese, chocolate courses flight:

Clarendon Hills Astrallis Syrah 2011
Alois Kracher Chardonnay TBA Trocken Bereen Auslese #7 Nouvelle Vague 2001
Alois Kracher Chardonnay TBA Trocken Bereen Auslese #9 Nouvelle Vague 2002
Dow Vintage Port 1994


Previous Pour Boys OTBN Events

Pour Boys OTBN 2019 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2018 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2016 - Open That Bottle Night 

Pour Boys OTBN 2015 - Open That Bottle NightBordeaux Anchors OTBN 2015

Pour Boys OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2014

Pour Boys OTBN 2013 - Open That Bottle Night 2013

Pour Boys OTBN 2012 - Open That Bottle Night

Pour Boys OTBN 2011 - Open That Bottle Night.

 

Thursday, February 23, 2023

Long Shadows Chester Kidder

 Long Shadows Chester Kidder with grilled beefsteak dinner - Tribute to Founder Allan Shoup

We grilled out beefsteaks served with asparagus, buttered baked potatoes and wedge salad. To accompany the dinner I pulled from the cellar this special bottling, Chester Kidder Columbia Valley Red Bordeaux Blend from the Long Shadows Collection

I written often in these pages about Long Shadows Cellars that feature world class winemakers and Columbia Valley fruit. Long Shadows was the creation of Allan Shoup, leader of Chateau St Michelle from 1983 to 2000. There he introduced Washington State grapes to winemakers from around the world in collaboration to produce quality wines. 

After retirement from Chateau St Michelle he founded Long Shadows to produce world class ultra-premium wines in Washington. He built a state of the art winery in Walla Walla and recruited a team of legendary producers to craft signature wines from the best vineyards' fruit from the Washington Columbia Valley. Three years into the new venture Long Shadows was awarded the Winery of the Year by Food and Wine Magazine. 

Shoup recruited a top winemaker with expertise and a track record producing best in class wine in each category or type of wine based on varietal grape. Marketed under the Vintners Collection, each of the Long Shadows labels in a testament to the legend of the winemaker for each label based on each varietal. 
 
Allen took inspiration for Long Shadows from his good friend and mentor Robert Mondavi, whose Opus One collaboration with Baron Philippe de Rothschild helped establish the prestige of Napa Valley. Inspired by the idea of international partnerships and fortunate to enjoy industry friendships around the  globe, Allen envisioned a the collaborative alliances to highlight the quality and diversity of Washington vineyards that lead to recruiting the dream team of winemakers.
 
Since the beginning, Long Shadows' Director of Winemaking and Viticulture Gilles Nicault, has overseen the operations of the winery and worked closely with the vintners to bring each winemaker’s vision to completion. Internationally renowned winemakers Randy Dunn (Feather Cabernet Sauvignon); John Duval (Sequel Syrah); Philippe Melka (Pirouette Red Wine); and Michel Rolland (Pedestal Merlot) are active partners in their respective wines. Gilles now crafts Poet’s Leap Riesling and Saggi, a Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, in styles that remain true to their original winemakers, Armin Diel and Giovanni Folonari respectively and this label, Chester-Kidder, a Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend, independently.

Gilles works closely with the state’s top growers to execute a diverse winemaking protocol at Long Shadows’ state-of-the-art facility in Walla Walla to produce wines of exceptional quality, true to the Columbia Valley’s terroir.

In researching Long Shadows for this blogpost I just learned that Allan Shoup recently passed this pas November. He is memorialized in a tribute on the Long Shadows website, “It is impossible to overstate the impact Allen had on Washington wine. If there were a Mount Rushmore of Washington wine, his face would be on it. His accomplishments will continue to impact this industry long after we are all gone." - Sean Sullivan, NW Wine Report.
 
Allen Shoup created this label and named this wine in honor of his mother, Elizabeth Chester, and his grandmother, Maggie Kidder. He selected Long Shadows' Director of Winemaking and Viticulture, Gilles Nicault, to craft this New World blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and other classic Bordeaux varieties.

Chester Kidder Columbia Valley Red Bordeaux Blend 2016

This is a unique blend that is crafted and styled to capture the complexity of the growing region, Chester-Kidder is aged for an average of 30 months in tight-grained French oak which allows the fruit to fully integrate prior to bottling. 

Since discovering Long Shadows Cellars and joining their club, we've acquired a vertical collection of a half dozen vintages of this label and are now being rewarded for collecting and holding these bottles.  

Tonight, after four years of aging, this was much better behaved, more approachable, seamless and well integrated than and last encounter in 2019 when I wrote: "I like this wine: 91 Points - I found this dark garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, complex, and layered, but slightly disjointed as if the boldness of the Syrah was competing for attention with the firm structured Cabernet Sauvignon. I suspect that with some time in bottle this will settle and become more balanced and harmonious. The Syrah predominance showed a layer of sweet red fruits, accented by notes of spice, tobacco leaf, smokey sweet oak and smooth tannins on the lingering finish."

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/10/long-shadows-chester-kidder-2016.html

 Winemaker Notes: Inky in color and brimming with layered aromas and flavors of black cherries, baking spice and a subtle earthiness, the 2016 Chester-Kidder offers an impressive concentration of refined tannins and a lively mouthfeel. Wonderfully rich and well-balanced, the wine gains fullness across the mid-palate and leaves a vibrant impression on the finish.

This is an interesting, enticing blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, and 12% Petit Verdot resulting in a style and profile that we love.

This was delicious and a perfect complement to the grilled beefsteak dinner. 

This label release was awarded 94 points by Jeb Dunnuck and James Suckling, 92+ points by Wine Advocate and 90 points by Wine Enthusiast Sean Sullivan.

Dark blackish inky purple, full bodied, powerful, dense/rich, yet nicely balanced, ripe layered dark berry fruits are accented by spicy oak, flavors of bitter dark chocolate, dark currants and cassis with silky mouthfeel and firm tannins lingering with a long, drawn-out finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3025418

https://longshadows.com/ 

https://twitter.com/LongShadowsWine 

@LongShadowsWine

Wednesday, February 22, 2023

Leña Brava Restaurant Chicago

Leña Brava Restaurant Chicago

We held a celebration dinner recognizing our team that contributed to the successful business transaction resulting in the sale of our company. In attendance were the 'deal' team from our company and our corporate finance investment banking advisors.

The dinner was held at Leña Brava Restaurant in the vibrant Randolph Street Restaurant Row in Chicago’s West Loop neighborhood. 

The recent renaissance has transformed the historic Fulton market meat packing and food processing and distribution area into one of the country's most vibrant commercial centers with the development of corporate headquarters, tech industry, hotels, bars, restaurants, and retail that include McDonald's world headquarters, Google, Mondelez, Herman Miller and more.

Leña Brava was created to celebrate classic Mexican dishes cooked over hardwood fire featuring seafood-heavy cuisine of Mexico’s Baja coast, with an all ”ferocious firewood” kitchen. Interesting too, given my focus on wine in these pages, is the feature of Mexican wines on their winelist, which I admit, I had never experienced before. 

We were seated in a private dining room with views of the cityscape, and dinner featured a bespoke menu for the evening.  Prior to dinner was an endless procession of delectable hors d'oeuvres and specialty drinks.

Our wine pairings for the evening including a White and a Red from the limited, focused winelist, from producer Casa Magoni, sourced from Valle de Guadalupe, on the Baja Peninsula, (B.C. - Baja California), Mexico. 

Both wines exceeded my expectations, neither the selection of varietals nor their profiles being what one would expect coming from what I would consider a hot climate. Apparently, the coastal effects, and they say the elevation, temper the terroir to produce such wines.  

The Valle de Guadalupe (Guadalupe Valley) is an area of Ensenada Municipality, Baja California, Mexico that is an increasingly popular tourist destination for wine and Baja Med cuisine. It is located 20 kilometres (12 mi) north of the City of Ensenada and 113 kilometres (70 mi) southeast of the border crossing from San Diego to Tijuana.

The Valle de Guadalupe's elevation and microclimate make it ideal for growing Vitis vinifera, cultivated grapes, suited for winemaking. As of 2018, there were over 100 wineries along the Valle's Ruta del Vino (Wine Route). Collectively, they account for 70% of all Mexico's wines.

The varieties of grapes grown to produce red wine in the Baja California region are Cabernet Sauvignon, Ruby Cabernet, Zinfandel Grenache and Mission. The grapes for white wines are Chenin Blanc, Palomino, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Saint Emilion and Malaga. 

The wines were appropriate pairings to complement the beef, cheese, and seafood selections. 

Our host arranged for a prepared menu flight of three courses with two selections each. 

The starter course consisted of Charred Queso Fresco - Garlicky green mojo, Picoline olives, parsley and lime served with coal-fired pan de campo.

The other starter course may have been the best selection of the entire evening, incredible, delicious, artfully prepared Wood-Fired Oysters - east coast oysters, preserved lemon-anchovy butter and chipotle. They were as delectable and unique as they were picturesque.

The two main courses were a fish and a beef dish - Wild Alaskan Black Cod marinated in red chile, roasted chayote, fiery arbol salsa and Wood-oven braised beef short ribs, silky tamal pudding, guajillo reduction, parsley & white onion salad.

The two main dishes were accompanied by two side dishes: Mexican Rice and Fingerling Potatoes.

The two wines were from the same producer, Casa Magoni - both from the same region, Valle de Guadalupe in Baja, California, Mexico.

Winemaker/producer Camillo Magoni, born in Valtellina, Italy, Magoni moved to Baja California in 1965, after studying viticulture and enology in Alba. He worked for almost fifty years at regional producer L.A. Cetto winery, another label offered on the Leña Brava limited, focused wine list.

Magoni is credited for helping establish the transformation of Baja California’s wine industry. Starting in the 1960s, he bought vineyards and experimented with many varieties, growing over a hundred of them seeking the right varietal best suited for the terroir of the area - soil, climate, exposure - all the elements that contribute to the character and profile of the sense of place and its impact on the resulting wines. He experimented with Chardonnay, Fiano, Viognier, Arneis, Moschofilero, Assyrtiko, Montepulciano, Aglianico, Grenache, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, many of them field blends. 

Over the years, he sold his grapes to established wineries, and helped them move away from high alcohol reds while developing white wines. In 2012, faced with a surplus of grapes, he decided to start making his own wine. 

Like his experimentation in grapes, he also explored crafting techniques best suited for the local wines, trying new things, making many unique cuvées and trial batches. He introduced his Casa Magoni wines in 2016, and has become recognized as one of the iconic personalities of Baja California viticulture and signature wines.

Production of Casa Magoni has grown to total production approaching 21,000 cases per year.

Casa Magoni, Manaz, Vino Blanco, (Viognier, Fiano), Valle de Guadalupe, B.C., Mexico 2021

This white blend is 80% Viognier and 20% Fiano sourced from the “Campo Manaz” vineyard, on the east side of Guadalupe Valley, which lends the wine its name.

One cellartracker writes "A very nice blend combining soft, peachy fruit from Viognier with the more earthy, nutty, tart characteristics of Fiano."

Winemaker's notes: "A pale and luminous yellow with a light green hue. Fresh and elegant with white flower and mellow aromas. Citric notes like lime and grapefruit mixed with tropical fruits like pineapple and apricot are perceived. Fresh in mouth. Citric and floral notes are highlighted. Nice and firm acidity with a long and elegant finish."

Light grayish straw colored, medium light bodied, crisp, bright acidity with slightly tart stone fruits, mineral and notes of tangy citrus and tropical fruits.  

RM 87 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4430936

 And for the red ....

Casa Magoni, Sangiovese/Cabernet, Valle de Guadalupe, B.C., Mexico 2021 

This is an imaginative unique blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, also sourced totally from the Valle de Guadalupe, Baja, México.  

Winemaker's Tasting Notes: "A blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. These two varieties have been grown in the Guadalupe Valley for decades, as the climate and terroir is well-suited to them. Each variety is harvested and fermented separately. The vinification is done in stainless steel tanks to preserve the freshness of the fruit. The wine is bottled before the following harvest season.'

"Aromas of cherries and red raspberries, with black fruits notes in the background. Well-integrated tannins, more cherry and plum, and a hint of black tea on the finish. 13% alcohol."

Wine pundit Ian Blackburn who reviews Mexican wines awarded this release 90 Points. He wrote, "Freshness, purity and drinkability are expressed wonderfully in this value option. Color 13/15 (soft and pretty), Aroma 22/25 (fresh fruit, nice varietal expression), Body 22/25 (satisfying and indulgent), Overall 33/35 = 90 points."

Ruby colored, medium plus bodied, bright expressive dark berry and plum fruits with spice, tobacco and cedar sprites with tangy acidity and moderate tannins on a lingering finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4297199

The closing dessert course was Coconut Tres Leches Cake - Sponge cake soaked in coconut milk with toasted coconut and strawberry compote. 

Like all the dishes, this exceeded my expectations and was better than could be imagined, or discerned from the description which did not do it justice. 

Thanks to our hosts, and the Leña Brava team for a delightful evening and delectable dinner. 

https://www.lenabrava.com/

https://twitter.com/LenaChicago

 

Saturday, February 18, 2023

Old and New big reds for family celebration party

Old and New big reds for family celebration party

Alec and Vivianna hosted a gala first birthday party for Marylin. They served a broad selection of foods including Salmon and beef tenderloin, along with salads, shrimp, and a broad selection of artisan cheeses, charcuterie and dips.


Afterwards we had two birthday cakes, a white cake and a chocolate cake, also to celebrate Linda's birthday. 

The occasion was an opportunity for all the family to gather, along with many of their friends and families. 

On the eve of the NBA All-Star game, and the day our Indiana Hoosiers, and rival fellow Hoosier Purdue Boilermakers are the only Big Ten teams nationally ranked, the day also called for a serious pop-a-shot tournament, first by the kids, and then the adults. 

I brought from our cellar an aged Napa Cabernet Reserve from Alec's birthyear vintage, a fitting tribute to the occasion. Alec served a selection of reds, a white and Rose' from his cellar. 

Flora Springs Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1990

We collect many wines in our cellar that are family affairs, such that we favor them with family outings such as this. 

One family winery who's wines we collect is Flora Springs and their Komes-Garvey estate vineyards. The Komes and Garvey’s family have acquired 500 acres throughout Napa Valley, 300 of which are planted to vineyards. With estate properties stretching from the cool, rolling hills of Carneros to the famed sub-appellations of Oakville, Rutherford and St. Helena, Flora Springs produces varietal wines ranging from Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and the other red Bordeaux varietals.

Flora Springs was founded by the children of Jerry and Flora Komes who bought the property at the end of West Zinfandel Lane in St. Helena believing it to be the perfect place to grow grapes and become farmers. But when their son, John, proposed that the old winery building on the property be revived, Flora Springs became a new career for Flora, Jerry and their children.

They may be best known for their label, Trilogy which is a mainstay go to label in our cellar offering quality sophisticated drinking at reasonable value relative to the premium Napa and Bordeaux Blends. This label is a Reserve bottling of their single varietal Cabernet.

 They started producing Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon in 1989 reaching production of 700 cases. Their 1991 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was awarded 96 points by Wine Spectator and was called 'stunning' by Robert Parker. 

Perhaps whimsically, I latched on to this as a regular favorite partly due to the namesake that wife Linda is a descendant of the Flora family, founders of her hometown Flora, in Indiana, no relation of course to the California Napa Flora (first name) Kombs. but fun and a tribute none-the-less.At thirty-three years, this was holding up amazingly well, still within its drinking window and only beginning to show diminution from age with slight discoloration and haziness. Never-the-less the fruit was vibrant and after decanting and settling for an hour, it was very tasty and pleasant drinking. 

The fill level, foil, label and importantly, the cork, were all in ideal condition, considering their age. The cork was pristine and held together well when extracted using an Ahso two pronged cork puller.

Dark garnet colored with a slight brownish gray hue started to set in showing its age, medium bodied, complex, concentrated blackberry and plum fruits with layers of currant, mocha, anise, leather, sage herbs and hints of eucalyptus. on a long finish of bright acidity and ripe tannins. Time to drink and we caught this just in time. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=151440

https://www.florasprings.com/

 
Alec then pulled from his cellar a recent acquisition, this premium single vineyard designated Big Red from Napa Valley Stags Leap District. 

Mira Schweizer Vineyard Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
 
This is the handicraft of Co-Founder/Winemaker Gustavo A. Gonzalez and co-founder Jim “Bear” Dyke, Jr., consultant and lobbyist. A chance meeting at the Off The Record bar in Washington, D.C., lead to their joint pursuit of the dream of creating a world class winery. In 2009, the duo sourced their first grapes and in 2012 Mira went to market. 

They are joined by Ed Thralls who came to Mira with 25 years of experience in both wine and financial technology industries. Having studied winemaking at UC Davis and earning a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), he has served as General Manager for a Sonoma premier producer. Ed had his own winery, Thralls Family Cellars, producing premium Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley, Syrah and Chardonnay. Prior to that, he served as the director at Flowers Vineyards & Winery and Huneeus Vintners.

Mira Winery is named for the Latin root of “miracle” and Greek for “destiny”. It is a family owned, 16-acre estate in the heart of the Napa Valley, farming historic vineyards that were first planted to grapes in 1885. 

Gustavo A Gonzalez has been practicing his craft in the Napa Valley and around the world to critical acclaim for over 20 years, in California, Italy, France, Argentina, and Brazil. He brings local knowledge and global perspective, experience and creativity to Mira’s vineyard practices and winemaking techniques.

Gustavo’s grew up in California’s Central Valley, surrounded by family with longstanding ties to agriculture and an appreciation for wine. His appreciation for winemaking took him to the Napa Valley where he joined the Robert Mondavi Winery in 1995 working in the fields towards a career in winemaking. For 17 years at Robert Mondavi Winery, Gustavo worked his way up to Head Red Winemaker where he established Robert Mondavi Winery Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon as one of the leading Napa Valley Cabernets, consistently receiving Wine Spectator ratings of 95 or higher. 

There he also produced some of the best Sauternes style wine of the new world and raised the Pinot Noir program to cult status. During this time, he also worked with other notable wineries around the world including Tenuta dell’Ornellaia where he was responsible for the 2001 “Masseto” Toscana which received 100 points from Wine Spector and was described by James Suckling as, “possibly the best Tuscan red ever.”

Gustavo’s strong relationships with leading Napa Valley grape growers brought Mira unique access to some of the finest blocks of grapes in some of the Napa Valley’s premier vineyards including Hyde Vineyard in the Carneros AVA and Schweizer Vineyard in the heart of the Stags Leap AVA.

Gustavo has established Mira as one of the top producers of small production single vineyard wines from the Napa Valley. At a blind tasting commemorating the historic Judgement of Paris featuring eight of the world’s top wines from Bordeaux and the Napa Valley, the 2012 Mira Cabernet Sauvignon Schweizer Vineyard took the top slot for Napa Valley Cabernet besting Screaming Eagle, Schrader To Kalon, and Shafer Hillside Select.

Mira produce a dozen premium labels of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Bordeaux varietal red and white blends sourced from leading Napa growers.  

Mira Cabernet Sauvignon Schweizer Vineyard 2016 

This is from Schweizer Vineyard, one of the oldest in Napa Valley, that has been producing grapes for premier wines for over 100 years and has been owned by the Schweizer family since 1956. The historic 42-acre vineyard in the heart of Stags Leap District has ideal terroir for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. It combines excellent draining Perkins Gravelly Loam soil with a microclimate of great afternoon sun due to its position on the east side of the valley and ideal hot days and cool nights. As a result, Schweizer Vineyard is among the world’s top locations to grow Cabernet Sauvignon.
 
Winemaker notes: "A level of refinement on the nose that defies easy description, evoking the best of the “Grand Cru” tradition. Smooth despite tremendous structure, on the palate the wine’s essential fruit character underlies layers of earthy, forest floor notes. Already extremely complex, this wine is destined for a profound journey in the cellar."

This release was awarded 97 Points in the Sunset International Wine Competition, 95 Points by Wine Enthusiast, 92 Points by James Suckling, and 91 Points by Wine Spectator.  

Bright garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex, concentrated ripe blackberry and currant fruits, earth, tobacco, dark bitter mocha chocolate, vanilla and spice notes with hints of cedar and on a long expressive acid tinged finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4093038

https://miranapa.com/

https://twitter.com/mirawinery

Friday, February 17, 2023

Uriah Spring Valley Red Blend 2015

 Uriah Spring Valley Vineyard Red Blend

Wife Linda's friends took her out to lunch for her birthday at local popular trattoria Gia Mia in Naperville. She brought back for me, take-out, one of my favorite dishes from there, their Meatballs al Forno, Veal Meatballs with Creamy Polenta and Roasted Tomato Sauce.

I picked up some artisan cheeses including Raclette cheese which was featured in our spectacular dinner the other night at 3-Michelin Star Alinea restaurant, that we were eager to try. 

For this favored meal combination, for a nice relaxed evening dinner together, I pulled from the cellar one of my favorite drinking Right Bank Bordeaux varietal blends from one of our favorite producers, Spring Valley Vineyards

We visited Spring Valley during our appellation visit to the Walla Walla (Washington) wine region in the fall of 2018. We visited the Spring Valley Vineyard tasting room in downtown Walla Walla, then ventured out to the vineyards and winery northeast of town. There, we met Dean Derby patriarch, and husband to Shari Corkrum Derby, grand-daughter of Uriah Corkrum, namesake for this label. Meeting Mr. Derby was one of the highlights of our Walla Walla Wine Experience, especially since he has since passed on. We posted a Tribute to Dean Derby and memorium of that visit - Spring Valley Vineyard toward the end of 2021. 

All of the Spring Valley wines are named for one of the ancestral or current family members. Spring Valley Vineyard wines are all produced from 100% estate-grown fruit, a relative rarity in Washington.

Washington State and regional powerhouse Chateau Ste. Michelle Wine Estates purchased the winery and the brand from the Derby family recently, but they continue to own and operate the vineyards.

The complete lineup of Spring Valley wines featuring the family member labels is featured in a boxed set. Shown is our set commemorating the 2013 vintage releases.

Spring Valley Vineyards Uriah Red Blend 2015

The Spring Valley Vineyards adjacent to the
farmstead site
This label, Uriah, is named for the Spring Valley Vineyards founder Uriah Corkrum, grandfather of matriarch Shari Corkrum Derby. Born in Walla Walla on June 1, 1866, he began successfully farming on his own during the 1880s. Unusual summer rain kept him from getting his harvested wheat to the warehouse so he lost everything in the depression of 1893. He persevered and, in 1897, acquired land in the area known as Spring Valley that is the site of the vineyards today. Uriah is featured on the flagship label Uriah Spring Valley Red Blend. This is our favorite label from the Spring Valley portfolio. 

This is 100% sourced from Spring Valley Vineyards in the wind-shaped Palouse Hills 12 miles northeast of Walla Walla, amid the picturesque wheat fields of southeastern Washington and the Blue Mountains in the distance. The initial block of Merlot was planted in 1993 on a southern hillside facing southwest. The vines follow the north-south slope of the hills in vertical rows, an orientation that when combined with the declination of the slope, allows the vines to take optimal advantage of air drainage, sunshine, and the reflective nature of the surrounding wheat fields.

The 2015 vintage was one of the warmest growing seasons on record in Washington. Warm temperatures continued through the spring and summer, moderating slightly into fall and extending an early harvest. Overall, 2015 saw very favorable growing conditions, producing optimal ripening across varieties and yielding outstanding wines throughout the region.

This label, Uriah, is a Right Bank Bordeaux Blend, meaning it is predominantly Merlot based rather than Cabernet, complemented by Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. This release has a high percentage of Cabernet Franc which provides spiciness and bright flavor sprites.

This 2015 release is a blend or Bordeaux varietals, 43% Cabernet Franc, 38% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec. It was aged 18 months in 100% French oak, 40% new.

Winemaker Tasting Notes: “Our most terroir driven blend, mostly Cabernet Franc and Merlot. A rich wine coming from one of the warmest harvests. The tannins are velvety and the finish is long and soft.”
~ Serge Laville, Winemaker.

This was rated 93 Points by Wine & Spirits, 92 Points by James Suckling, 91 Points by Wine Spectator, and 90 points by Sean Sullivan of Wine Advocate. 

We hold half dozen vintages of this label and pulled the oldest vintage as part of effective cellar management rotation. 

At eight years this is probably at its peak, the apex of its drinking profile, not likely to improve further with aging, but certainly to age gracefully for another decade if you're patient enough to keep it that long. 

Bright garnet colored, medium bodied, elegant polished, rich but approachable for pleasant but sophisticated drinking, its right-bank style blend shows vibrant black berry and dark plum fruits with notes of cassis, spice, floral and hints of balsamic and herbs with dusty minerality with polished soft tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2648699

Linked referenced in this blog:

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/10/spring-valley-vineyards-tasting-and.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/11/spring-valley-vineyards-nina-syrah-2017.html

https://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/


Thursday, February 16, 2023

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Rosé René

Couly-Dutheil Chinon Rosé René Couly Cabernet Franc 2021

We very rarely do Rose' wines but opened this one with some hearty artisan cheeses we picked up that were said to favor such wines. I was intrigued by this label that is 100% Cabernet Franc, a Bordeaux varietal normally produced as a bold spicy red wine or in the blend to add color, structure and spicy flavors.  We served an aged Gouda, a Havarti and a Raclette cheese which we discovered when it was featured in our spectacular dinner the other night at 3-Michelin Star Alinea Restaurant.

Domaine Couly Dutheil is managed by Arnaud Couly Dutheil, great-grandson of Baptiste Dutheil who founded the Domaine in 1921. Established by Baptiste Dutheil, then developed by René Couly who married Madeleine Dutheil, the House of Couly-Dutheil has become over the years one of the great name for Chinon wines. Today, Couly-Dutheil remains a family house owned by the third and fourth generation. 
 
The Chinon appellation surrounds the historic town of Chinon, and encompasses 26 communes on both sides of the Vienne River, a tributary of the Loire, up to the point where it joins the Loire. The terroir consists of alluvial terraces of sand and gravel that were deposited by the Vienne . The region enjoys a temperate climate of semi-oceanic type favorable to the cultivation of wine.
 
The Chinon region terroir has all the qualities of the greatest soils, semi-oceanic climate that is exceptionally mild and benefits of long sunny periods. The variety of soils and their particular qualities allows the Cabernet Franc (98% of the vineyard plantings) to express all its fineness and its celebrated “taffetas” within a range of strong personalities. 
 
The Couly Dutheil Estate owns 235 aeres of vineyards in Chinon and 17 acres in Turquant, in the Saumur and Saumur Champigny appellations. The best plots of the Domaine are a showcase of the different terroirs of the Chinon appellation.  

The Domaine contains the famous “Clos de l'Olive” and “Clos de L’Echo” vineyards. Monopole Couly Dutheil Clos de l'Echo and Clos de l'Olive located opposite the fortress of Chinon, on clay-limestone soils, with the presence of blue clays, the same ones that made the reputation of the legendary Pétrus.  
 
Domaine Couly Dutheil is best known for three powerful and complex cuvées, from plots planted with vines aged 50 years and over: Clos de L'Echo, Clos de L'Olive and Clos de l'Echo Crescendo. These three cuvées have achieved a worldwide reputation. 
 
While Couly Dutheil is most known for its Chinon rosé, they also produce white wines, a rarity for the Chinon appellation. Chinon blanc Les Chanteaux: exclusively from Chenin, a cuvée that requires 3 to 4 sortings produces a “tender dry” wine with aromas of white fruits and citrus fruits. 
 
Couly-Dutheil Chinon Rosé René Couly Cabernet Franc 2021 
 
Chinon Rosé René Couly is produced by pressing the grapes, selected from a parcel  exclusively in Chinon. It produces a wine described by the winemaker: "
lovely pink color, with a fresh and fruity nose showing floral notes. A fruited palate with persistent and refreshing flavors, this wine is well-balanced, easy to drink and elegant. Delightfully aromatic and showcasing the classic structure associated with the Chinon terroir, this rosé wine is perfectly suited to enjoy as an aperitif and to accompany a meal. Can be kept for two or three years."

Wine pundit Roger Voss of Wine Enthusiast says, "Pure Cabernet Franc gives this wine both its smooth texture and perfumed character. Vanilla and ripe strawberry fruits make a comfortable mélange of flavors. Drink the wine now". Roger Voss WE 87 points. 

Pink colored, light medium bodied, aromatic with floral and stone fruit notes, nicely balanced for pleasant easy drinking although it is firmly structured such that it could be an aperitif or stand up to food or hearty cheese. Such was the case tonight and it proved to be a wise choice for pairing.
 
RM 88 points 
 

Wednesday, February 15, 2023

Force Majeure Parvata Red Blend with Beef Bourgogne

Force Majeure Parvata Red Blend with Beef Bourgogne

Linda prepared a delicious hearty beef bourgogne stew and I wanted a proper wine to pair for the occasion - something big and bold, but not overpowering, and complex to meld with the breadth and depth of flavors. I chose this Parvata Rhone varietal red blend from Force Majeure for its complexity of the blend.

We first featured this label in our Force Majeure Vineyards Site Visit and Tasting report.

Force Majeure Parvata Red Blend 2017

We originally discovered and acquired this label during our visit to Force Majeure in Walla Walla back in 2018. We hold three vintages of a mixed case from our wine club allocation orders.   

This is from their Force Majeaure Red Mountain Vineyard site in the central Columbia Valley. The Red Mountain site was the very first vineyard on the steep, rocky upper slopes of Red Mountain. Developing the Red Mountain estate vineyards involved carefully matching varietal and clonal selections and vineyard trellising and irrigation to the eight distinct soil types in the vineyard.

Parvata means “mountain” in sanskrit, and hence is the name for Force Majeure's southern Rhône style blend, grown in the sandy, loamy soils of the lower section of the Red Mountain vineyard.

Parvata is a a classic Rhone River Blend that the French, and in the new World, the Australians, call GSM, for the blend of the three Rhone varietals, (25%) Grenache, (23%) Syrah, and (42%) Mourvedre. 

But this 2017 Parvata is a blend of Rhone varietals, somewhere between a GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) and a CDP (Chateauneuf-du-Pape of which 70% is typicall GSM, the total can be from a possible thirteen sanctioned varietals). This release is 42% Mourvedre, 25% Grenache, 23% Syrah, and 'lesser' varietals, 4% Cinsault and 5% Counoie - 100% sourced from the Force Majeure Red Mountain Estate vineyard.

We've posted blogspots of the 2015 and 2016 releases but this is our first tasting of the 2017 release. It seems to be less fruit forward than the earlier releases. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, this is black fruits accented by white pepper, dried herbs, leather and tobacco notes with bright lively acidity.

RM 92 points.

The 2015 seemed to more fruit forward, more the style we love, with its dark blackish garnet purple colored, full bodied, rich unctuous concentrated black and blue fruits accented by white pepper and tones of dried herbs with bright lively acidity.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3519567

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/10/force-majeure-vineyards-site-visit-and.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2659538

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/ 

@ForceMVineyards 

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/wp/