Thursday, October 20, 2022

Spring Valley Vineyard Derby Cabernet Sauvignon

Spring Valley Vineyard Derby Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

We enjoyed Spring Valley Vineyards Frederick Red Blend for dinner the other night. When I was pulling together info to write up my blogpost I realized it was exactly a year ago that patriarch co-owner and co-producer Dean Derby passed away.

Ironically, on the anniversary of his passing, we received our wine club allocation shipment, the 2019 release of his namesake tribute label wine, Derby Cabernet Sauvignon. Hence, we felt it only fitting to pull a bottle of Derby in tribute and remembrance of Dean, replacing the older vintage with the just arrived vintage release, as part of cellar management to drink the older bottle from our cellar collection.  

We pulled from the cellar a bottle of Derby Cabernet for dinner in a fitting tribute to Dean, whom we had the pleasure of meeting Dean when we visited the estate vineyards a few years ago during our Spring Valley Vineyards Tasting, Estate and Vineyard Visit. That was one of the highlights of our appellation visit to the Walla Walla (Washington) wine region in 2018.

Dean Derby was a bigger than life character. He was a delightful man of faith and family. 

With his family he moved to Walla Walla in 1945 where he met Shari Corkrum in the 6th grade at Sharpstein Grade School. Upon graduation from Walla Walla High School, Shari and Dean attended the University of Washington in Seattle. They were married in 1954.

In 1956 Dean Derby was captain of the University of Washington football team. He still holds the record for longest run from scrimmage for a touchdown at Husky Stadium (92 yards against Illinois).

Dean was drafted into the NFL as the 1st pick of the 4th round by the Los Angeles Rams, then traded to the Pittsburgh Steelers for the 1st league game in September 1957. He is named All Pro Defensive Cornerback and plays 4+ years with the Steelers and 1+ years for the Minnesota Vikings.

Back at their homestead ranch in Walla Walla, Devin Corkrum Derby was born in Spring Valley to Dean and Shari in 1956. 

Dean and Shari first planted wine grapes on the ranch in Spring Valley in 1993.

Devin Corkrum Derby took over management of the ranch and winery at Spring Valley in 1999. As founding winemaker he oversaw the first crush and crafted the first wine – Uriah, a Merlot-based red blend which debuts in 2001.  This was also the first vintage release of Derby Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as the Frederick Cabernet Sauvignon-based red blend, and Mule Skinner Merlot.

Devin also designed the labels for Spring Valley’s wines. 
 
Devin Corkrum Derby was killed in a tragic car accident in 2004 and winemaking duties were taken over by assistant winemaker Serge Laville. Serge Laville was a French winemaker who had met Devin in Walla Walla and moved from France to become assistant winemaker at Spring Valley Vineyard.
 
I've written in these pages, (as late as two days ago posting) about the portfolio of Spring Valley wines with each label featuring a member of three generations of the Corkrum family reaching back to first generation founding producers Uriah Corkrum and his wife Nina Lee.

As I mentioned above, Dean Derby was husband of Sharilee Corkrum Derby, who is daughter of Frederick (subject of the label consumed the other night) and grand-daughter of founder Uriah Corkrum. Each of them are featured on SVV labels as tribute to them and features of their portfolio of estate grown varietal wines and blends. 

The SVV portfolio features estate grown Bordeuax varietals, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, as well as Left Bank and Right Bank blends. 

This label, Derby, is the Cabernet Sauvignon offering from that collection.

Spring Valley Vineyard Derby Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

For dinner, Linda prepared a home-made pizza and this wine was a wonderful accompaniment. Some Cabernet's may be too firm or structured for such a dish, better paired with a beefsteak, but this was sufficiently full and fruit forward that it was perfect. 

Label from 2016
This is 100% estate grown Cabernet Sauvignon from the Spring Valley Vineyard that lie twelve miles northeast of Walla Walla, amid the picturesque expansive wheat fields of southeastern Washington. 
 
The ranch consists of total vineyard acreage to 109 acres of grapevines including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec.
 
The vines follow the north-south slope of the hills in vertical rows that take advantage of air drainage and sunshine. Every grape cluster is tended by hand, including crop thinning, leaf pulling and harvesting.
 
The final blend was aged 19 months in French oak, 20% new

Winemaker's Notes: "As usual, a very limited number of barrels were able to go under the label 100% Cabernet Sauvignon “Derby ”. Complexity and purity is the ultimate goal for this wine. Rose petal on the
nose. Flavors are focused on ripe cherry. Intense mid pallet and finish on herbal notes."

It was rated 93 points by both Jeb Dunnuck and James Suckling, and 89 points by Sean Sullivan of Wine Enthusiast.

Bright garnet colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant blackberry, black cherry and plum flavors accented by spice notes and herbs with a long smooth polished finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3928217

https://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/

 

Monday, October 17, 2022

Buehler Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Buehler Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

We heated up left over steaks from the other night and I pulled this casual sipper from the cellar. I wrote about this label back at the beginning of the year in these pages when I posted the following:

A long time producer of modest offerings, this is one of those situations where 'all boats rise with the tide', in a top rated vintage, second and third labels or so rank producers can produce wines above their usual pay grade or weight class, whatever metaphor you wish to apply. Buehler also produce two premium label Cabernets from their reserve selections and a single vineyard designated label.

Buehler Vineyards estate has been producing wine in the Napa Valley for over four decades under the direction of the Buehler Family. Buehler have three hundred acres five miles east of St Helena situated high in the mountains above Conn Valley and near the base of Howell Mountain. The Buehler Estate vineyards are planted primarily to Cabernet Sauvignon and some Zinfandel. 

The mountain terroir has a topography of steeply sloped hillsides with eastern exposures against very gently sloping hills with southern and southwestern exposures. The soils reveal the tumultuous geologic past of the Estate; extensive faulting resulted in at least three distinct soil types. 

Grapes grown on the different terrains and soils give different characteristics to the finished wines; often as distinct as the differences across various Bordeaux varieties. This allows for crafting a blend showing the variety of Cabernet Sauvignon for a complex multi-faceted wine.

Buehler Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

The 2018 season offered nearly perfect growing conditions for growers in the Napa Valley. The year was warm throughout the growing season but cooled right around harvest allowing everyone to pick their grapes slowly without the threat of over-ripening. 
 
Buehler benefited from a great vintage with all the stars aligning for a great wine that they offer at a price point more affordable than most other mountain grown Napa Cabernets. At street price around or under twenty five dollars, this represents good value and should be fairly readily available. A bit of flabbiness gives away its price point but it provides tasty and pleasant sipping none-the-less. Makes for a great pizza or party wine for casual sipping or respectably sharing with (non oenphile) friends.

This release was awarded 93 points by Vinous, 92 points by James Suckling, and 90 points by both Wine & Spirits and Wine Spectator. 

Winemaker Notes; "The wine is brimming with fruit aromas and flavors biased to the black fruit end of the Cabernet spectrum: plums, blackberry, and black currant. Rich and full-bodied on the palate, this Cabernet drinks well on release but will soften and develop with additional age."
 
This is a nice tasty casual sipper with good QPR at $23, consistent with that earlier tasting. 
 
Garnet purple colored, medium-full-bodied with round ample ripe black-currant blackberry and some blueberry fruits, accented with notes of graphite, dried herbs, floral, mocha, spice and leather ending with moderate tannins on a flavorful finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3773753

http://www.buehlervineyards.com/ 

https://twitter.com/buehlerwines 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/01/buehler-cabernet-sauvignon-2018.html

Saturday, October 15, 2022

Gala Family Celebration calls for for birthyear wine

Gala Family Celebration get-together opportunity for a birth-year wine

The family gathered at son Sean's and Michelle's to celebrate granddaughter Lavender's first birthday and got a surprise announcement. Opening her first birthday gift produced a t-shirt that read, "I'm going to be a Big Sister!

Notably, I had already pulled from the cellar and brought a bottle of wine from Sean's birth year for the occasion. 

Inglenook Napa Valley "Reunion" Estate Bottled Red Wine 1985

This label is from the storied label that was one of the original pioneers producing wine in northern California and Napa Valley. 

Inglenook was founded in 1879 by Finnish sea captain Gustave Niebaum and produced perhaps the best wines in the valley until it closed in the early 1900s due to Prohibition. 

Niebaum died in 1908, but his widow re-opened the winery in the '40s and the winery returned to its earlier eminence as a top Napa producer. 

Movie producer Francis Ford Coppola enriched with cash from the legendary Godfather movies, bought 1,500 acres of vineyards from the brand in the mid-'70s. 

Under his stewardship and direction, the winery kept producing high quality wines until it was sold several times in rapid succession in the years after this vintage went into bottle. 

Several decades of producing not up-to-par quality wines ended in 2014 when Coppola purchased the name of the winery (for a ton of cash) with the hope of returning the brand to its former glory. 

The flagship Napa Cab label for the estate is Rubicon which we saw manifested on the producer's vanity plate while at lunch down the road from the estate.  

This is the Bordeaux varietal from the historic label that I acquired at auction over the years, from son Sean's birth-year vintage to hold and open for some fitting occasion such as tonight. 

This Reunion label is sourced from the three historic Inglenook estate vineyards that sit on the magnificent expansive historic property on the edge of the Napa Valley up against the Mayacamas foothills on the west side of Rutherford. 

We visited and toured the estate (right) during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2009. 

This was awarded 91 points by Wine Spectator back in 1989 

Our Cellartracker records indicate we acquired several bottles of this label back in 2009. A decade later this bottle showed a stained label, good filled level and a somewhat soft cork that threatened to pull apart but with care was extracted in whole using a traditional waiter's corkscrew. 

The color was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, at 37 years this was showing its age but was still consumable - the tangy dark cherry and plum flavors were overtaken by a funky barnyard earthiness and wet wood that burned off after close to an hour - but was still a bit astringent with notes of tobacco, oaky spice cedar and black tea with modest tannins on the tangy acidic finish.

RM 85 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=208179

Lillian California Syrah 2016

An interesting wine I had never heard of or seen before, Ryan brought this premium artisan Syrah from his cellar. 

This is from winemaker Maggie Harrison who worked at legendary Sine Qua Non for eight years.

First released in 2004, she sources fruit for this small production artisan label from the prestigious White Hawk Vineyard in Santa Barbara County

She produces this Lillian Syrah and a some other labels from vineyards sources such as the Bien Nacido Vineyard in Santa Maria Valley, and the Stolpman Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley.

Lillian wines are crafted from Rhone varietals — Roussanne, Syrah and Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Lillian shares a winemaker, winery, and tasting room with Antica Terra, in Dundee, OR, as noted on the label, but the wine is designated California Syrah, attributing the vineyard sources of the fruit. 

Ryan opened this bottle the night before and noted the fruit was more muted than when opened. 

Dark inky purple colored, medium full bodied, tight, structured, bold, forward, concentrated black fruits with notes of cedar and hints of cassis, pepper and smoke. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3042313

https://www.lillianwinery.com/

Friday, October 14, 2022

Villa Andretti Chardonnay - Tensley Colson Canyon Syrah

Villa Andretti Chardonnay - Tensley Colson Canyon Syrah with grilled surf and turf

For special end of the week dine-in with friend Kay Z, the ladies were in a festive mood so Linda prepared grilled strip steaks and lobster tails. I pulled from the cellar two appropriate wines to accompany the surf and turf entrees. 

To celebrate our shared Hoosier heritage, with Kay sharing some of her memorable Hoosier experiences, I pulled our last remaining bottle of Villa Andretti California Chardonnay with the lobster. Kay shared stories of working the Indy 500 race at the track for the local TV station and engaging with members of the Andretti racing team many years ago, early in her career. 

We discovered and acquired this wine at the Villa Andretti Winery, from famed Indy racing driver Mario Andretti, in southeast Napa Valley during our Napa Wine Experience in 2018. We discovered the Andretti estate while visiting the Lewis Cellars winery which is across the road, during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017.

Villa Andretti California Chardonnay 2017 

This is the basic Chardonnay in the broad Andretti portfolio and was a nice complement to the grilled lobster tails.

Golden butter colored, medium bodied, notes of green apple, pear and citrus, with hints of peach on a modest finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3638729

https://andrettiwinery.com/ 

@AndrettiWine

We then moved to the main course, grilled strip steaks. While I would favor a Bordeaux varietal wine such as a Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, Linda wanted her favored profile wine, a big bold forward hearty Shiraz/Syrah. 

Hence, I pulled from the cellar, perhaps the current best drinking bottle meeting this profile, this Colson Canyon Syrah from Tensley Wines.  

We discovered and acquired this and several other Tensley Santa Barbara County Wines, that I wrote about here, and replay below, during our Santa Barbara County Wine Experience earlier this year. This was the standout of that tasting and best represents the style that we love.

Tensley Colson Canyon Vineyard Santa Barbara County Syrah 2020

Winemaker Notes: "Everything we farm in house is something very special to us. This site is one of the most unique and special places in the world of wine. High (1400 elevation) in the hills north of the Santa Maria Valley with some of the most iron-laced soils I have seen in Santa Barbara County.'

"This wine always delivers juicy round seamless edges. This is the only wine we add some new French oak, as its weight and power integrates with the oak, adding a bit of toasty buttery complexity. Colson Canyon is such a beautiful example of fruit forward juicy California Syrah. Open it anytime and enjoy its blueberry, cassis and chocolate nuances or leave it 20 years and enjoy its leathery, almondy notes. It does not really matter when you open it, it will deliver."

1925 Cases Produced

This was awarded 94-96 points by Jeb Dunnuck and 96 points by Wine Advocate.

Might I consider this the Tensley 'flagship'? This reminded me of a couple other memorable highly rated Syrahs, Kongsgaard Carneros Hudson Vineyard and Penfolds Grange. Both are flawless, seamless, and notable for their smooth, polished, balanced profile. While not to that level of perfection perhaps, this is close and evokes the same experience. This bottle was from the Wine Club allocation we received from that visit. We're anxiously awaiting our fall release shipment that we're told was shipped this week.

Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, thick concentrated unctuous juicy black and blue fruits with layers of cassis and chocolate nuances with notes of oak, leather and tobacco on a tongue coating lingering finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4090797

@tensleywine

Thursday, October 13, 2022

Black Diamond Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2011-13

Black Diamond Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2011 - 13

This bottle had been set aside in the wine cooler adjacent our kitchen as a ready to drink wine. Even then it was overlooked and has been held several years longer than intended, or ideal. 
 
I wrote about this wine and its producer in a detailed blogpost back in 2014. Its hard to believe its been that long. In any event, we cleared out the wine cooler and pulled several bottles to consume, so, here we are. 

Linda prepared boiled ham and green beans and onions and I pulled this aged Russian River Pinot Noir as an accompaniment.

Black Diamond Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2011

At nearing a dozen years of age, this is past its prime drinking window but still approachable. The cork, label and fill level were all pristine.

The fruit flavors have been overtaken by what Linda described as aromas of a cardboard box, what I would liken to wet wood.
 
The non-fruit woody and earth flavors predominate over the cherry, raspberry and cinnamon flavors. Dark garnet purple colored, medium light bodied, the fruit tones give way to a layer of smoky spice and a tangy  lingering acidic finish.

RM 86 points - previously 88 points. 

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2014/03/black-diamond-pinot-noir-russian-river.html

Lo and behold we also found and did a 2013. This was consistent with earlier tasting notes of this release.

Black Diamond Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2013

I wrote about this release in an earlier blogpost back in 2015 when I wrote: "I discovered the 2011 release of this wine and thought it provided a good QPR - quality price ratio, a rare find in a sub $20 Pinot Noir, hence I picked up this follow on vintage. The '13 is not as smooth, polished or as flavorful as the '11 but has a similar tasting profile. Not bad for an every day Pinot but not a best buy selection."

Dark garnet colored, slightly opaque, medium light bodied, tones of bing cherry, raspberry, hints of cinnamon spice and vanilla with a slightly tangy oak on the lingering acidic finish.

RM 86 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1957919

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/03/black-diamond-pinot-noir-2013.html

Wednesday, October 12, 2022

Costco, Kirkland Signature Chardonnay, Sonoma County

Costco, Kirkland Signature Chardonnay, Sonoma County

The one question I get asked more than any other from non-oenophiles (wine geeks), is, 'what is your favorite wine?'. This usually is an icebreaker to open the discussion to ask the real pressing question, 'what is a great value wine?' 
 
I often talk about wine in the context of QPR - Quality Price Ratio, which is a measure of the relative value of a wine in its price range. 

Understandably, everyone in addition to casual wine drinkers who lack the discriminating wine pallet from serious wine tasting want a low cost pleasurable good tasting wine. I've written in these pages about the wine price spectrum, from every day wines, once a week wines, once a month wines, once a year wines, and once in a lifetime wines. Once might be more open to spending top dollar for a special occasion wine than for one for every day casual sipping. 

Couple this phenomenon with two other interesting facts: the average price paid by the consumer for a bottle of wine is under $15. And, the number one wine merchant in the US in rank of consumer wine sales is Costco, the wholesale big box merchant from Kirkland, Washington. 
 
Most folks know Costco is a membership warehouse club, with the intent to provide best available prices on quality brand-name merchandise, leverage large purchasing power, keep costs down and pass the savings on to our member/customers. With more than 800 locations worldwide, they have massive volume purchasing power. This creates the challenge and reality to select suppliers that can deliver large quantities to meet the massive demand of the high volume high turnover Costco machine. 
 
Costco warehouses carry about 4,000 SKUs (stock keeping units) compared to the 30,000 found at most supermarkets. By carefully choosing products based on quality, price, brand, and features, the company can offer the best value to members, those folks that pay for the right to shop there! Oh yeah, that's how they can afford to pass along savings and keep margins tight, because they also collect membership fees. 
 
It would be reasonable to consider this philosophy and approach contrary to wine, where highest quality is the result of small production of carefully crafted product. But for casual everyday sipping wines, there is an intersection point of quality, quantity and price/value. 

Never-the-less, many folks are unaware that Costco® is the number one wine retailer in the U.S. 

While one might argue that high value wines that are available in large volume in the marketplace would therefore be widely available in grocers and wine merchants, the Costco difference is simply the tremendously slim margin Costco takes thanks to their membership model. By making money on membership fees, it helps subsidize the economics to keep product prices low, including those on wine.

Hence, most Costco wines are available elsewhere, but likely at slightly higher prices. The emergence of the large discount wine superstores, Total Wine, Bev-Mo and, here in Illinois, Binny's, the Costco effect is diminished. The everyday Binny's price tends to be comparable to, or better than Costco, and their discounted prices tend to be better than the everyday Costco price. And of course, Binny's will offer a massive wine selection compared to the very limited Costco offering. 

Occasionally, one can find some low production wines available in an individual Costco store, but my experience is that this occurs in the markets where those wines are produced, mainly California and to a lesser degree Oregon and Washington. 

This brings me to the elephant in the room, the Costco house brand, “Kirkland Signature” wines. These are generally high-quality wines made by excellent wineries exclusively for Costco, cutting out the middleman where arcane local liquor distribution laws allow such practices. 

In some cases, these labels are starting to catch on and are developing a bit of a cult following so the low productions ones sell out fast, sometimes even within days. Some might argue this same phenomenon exists with other large volume discount grocers such as Trader Joe's and Aldi. 

I've written often in these pages about 'everyday wines', once a week wines, once a month, once a year, and special occasion wines - each with their corresponding price-point.  

It was Jess Jackson who imagined such a high volume quality wine and built a billion dollar wine empire on the basis of an affordable easy drinking California Chardonnay. His story was chronicled in the best selling book - A Man and His Mountain, the story of self-made billionaire Jess Jackson and his pursuit of his dream to build a brand of premium varietal based wine for the mass market. His accomplishments over the ensuring two and a half decades exceeded all expectations achieving the art of the possible building a multi-billion dollar wine empire - featured in my blogpost about Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay.

The brand that he envisioned grew to an iconic empire, Kendall-Jackson and the Chardonnay label created the whole category of varietal based mass market premium wine shipping millions of cases of wine annually.

With this in mind, I picked up a bottle of the Costco private label Kirkland Signature Sonoma County Chardonnay, as an everyday sipper. It was surprisingly good, a pleasant easy drinking wine, suitable and ideal for everyday consumption.

According to the label, "Kirkland Signature Sonoma County Chardonnay is elegant with rich, ripe, fruit flavors. The mid-palate has a wonderful zest coming from the grape's natural acidity which provides a long multi-dimensional finish. Apple, pear and orange citrus notes are surrounded by hints of vanilla and spice from the subtle oak maturation."

This label is Vinted & Bottled by Grape and Grain Imports who write, "The 2019 Kirkland Signature Sonoma County Chardonnay is made in the buttery, slightly sweet style that, to be honest, is not our favorite but it's done so well it's hard not to like. It opens with a pleasing aroma of microwave popcorn, apples and citrus."

"The buttery theme continues when tasting this wine which is also filled with sweet apple and citrus along with a touch of tart tropical fruit. Featuring a smooth, slightly creamy texture this is quite easy to drink and a great representation of this style. It ends with good length and some lingering buttery citrus notes. Butterlicious."

At at price around $10, this is great value, high QPR - Quality Price Ratio wine - ideal for keeping in the cooler for casual pleasurable, non-discriminating sipping. Pick some up.

Saturday, October 8, 2022

Livia casual dining in Geneva

Livia casual al fresco dining in Geneva

On a beautiful autumn afternoon we drove out to Geneva (IL) on the Fox River for a casual lunch. 

Taking advantage of the waning days of summer turning to autumn we dined al fresco on the garden terrace outside Livia Italian Restaurant on Third Street amongst all the trendy shops and restaurants. 

The Italian Eatery features Northern Italian cuisine with a broad menu selection of small plates, pastas, fresh greens, seafood, and beef, chicken, pork chops, Lamb Chops, and some House Specialty entrées. 

The wine list is a basic selection of regional Italian and American wines. 

There is a WBTG list (wines by the glass) that offers ten reds and ten whites as well as several sparklings and Rose's from Italy and one from France.

Linda ordered, the petit filet with romano crusted tomato, whipped potatoes and asparagus. 

I was content with a glass of red wine accompaniment with fresh toasted bread, olive oil with parmesan cheese. 

Linda imaginatively and creatively combined the fresh bread and her entree to create some delicious mini beef 'sliders' that we shared. 

I ordered WBTG selection Casaloste Chianti Classico.

Casaloste Chianti Classico 2018

Fattoria Casaloste is a wine estate situated in the Chianti hills in Panzano in Chianti, in the municipality of Greve, sitting in the hillsides of the Chianti Classico region, halfway between Florence and Siena. 

Calaloste is run by owner Giovanni Battista d'Orsi, an agronomist and enologist who oversees all wine viticulture and wine making, and his wife Emilia. The wine bears the name of the stone tower where the owners live with their family. The name "Casaloste" has ancient origins dating to the past when the building was used as a sighting tower. The farm also welcomes guests in two comfortable Tuscan apartments.

Fattoria Casaloste covers 45 acres of which 24 are planted to Chianti Classico D.O.C.G vineyards and 5 acres are D.O.P. olive trees . They produce about 60,000 bottles of wine per year. 

Chianti Classico Casaloste was first produced with the 1993 vintage and is produced from estate sourced Sangiovese accented by a small amount of Merlot. The prevailing grape Sangiovese covers 85% of the vines; the other 15% is represented by Merlot and some other grapes.

Casaloste adhere to three principles in producing their wines: low quantity production per acre, rigorous supervision to the quality of grapes during both growing and harvest, and continuous monitoring of fermentation, wine-making, and maturing methods.

Casaloste is a member of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico (Gallo Nero) association and thereby observes the regulations to sell its wine abroad under the DOCG and IGT designations. 

This Chianti Classico  is the traditional Sangiovese varietal based wine, a blend of Sangiovese accented with 10% Merlot. It is aged in oak casks of Allier, and barriques for about 12 months.

Ruby red in color, medium bodied, fresh red currant fruits accented by hints of strawberries and cherries with notes of violet, leather, spices, tobacco and hints of mocha supported by the typical tangy acidity of Sangiovese with long elegant tannins.

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3796277

https://www.casaloste.com/en/

https://www.liviaitalianeatery.com/

Friday, October 7, 2022

Tallgrass Lockport Fine Dining

Tallgrass Fine Dining in Lockport IL

Friday date night out, we dined at Tallgrass Restaurant in nearby Lockport (IL). A fixture in town since 1981, it is situated downtown in the picturesque river town on the banks of the Des Plaines river valley. 

The town straddles the valley that contains the working navigable Illinois Michigan Sanitary Canal and the historic Illinois Michigan (I&M) Ship Canal, and the Des Plaines River. The section of the canal that runs through Lockport, includes the remains of the canal's Lock No. 1 from which the town received its name.

The waterways flow from the City of Chicago, meeting with the Des Plaines and continue south past Joliet to meet the Kankakee River to form the Illinois River. 

Following the waterways are the Illinois and Michigan Canal Gaylord and Donnelly Trail along the canal right-of-way that is now the Illinois and Michigan National Heritage Corridor. 

Tallgrass is in a restored turn of the (last) century 1895 red stone and brick Victorian building, in a small narrow single storefront on busy State Street opposite the Roxy Theatre.

The small dining room has rustic dark wainscot paneled walls, authentic ceramic mosaic tile floors, tin ceilings, original gas chandeliers and artglass windows, with a mere eight dining tables adjacent a small bar in the corner, allowing for intimate dining and attentive service.

 

Tallgrass is the work of acclaimed Chef Robert Burcenski and local native Tom Alves. Tom studied oenology in France in the Rhone, Burgundy, Champagne and Bordeaux wine regions, and worked with winemakers in Oregon, Washington and California, and curates the Tallgrass wine program. 

The dining offerings are solely price fixe with diners selecting three, four, five or seven courses from the menu selections that range from seafood, poultry, beef, pork, lamb, vegetable dishes, salads and desserts, plus a couple of specials for the evening. Diners choose combinations with each offered as an entree or an starter. 

Dinners include a broad selection of fresh baked breads. 

There is a carefully selected winelist of a dozen WBTG - Wine-by-the-glass selections, and range of two hundred labels by the bottle to accompany each entree selection, primarily American. The wines are good values with a 1.5 to 2x multiple of retail prices. Note that while the actual winelist selection was greater than shown on the website, the prices as listed and shown on the website are woefully understated.

Linda selected the onion soup, the mixed green salad and a seafood medley entree selection. 

For my main course I selected one of the day's specials - Beef Tenderloin with foie gras mousse in a dark brown sauce with scalloped potatoes. For my starter I selected a Lump Crab, Lobster and Shrimp cake with Prawn in a lobster creme fraiche sauce. My vegetable course was an imaginative spinach ravioli with truffle and regianno cheese. 



Due to their fair and reasonable wine prices, we did not bring BYOB, which is our usual practice given our extensive personal cellar. We selected from the wine list Miner Napa Valley Chardonnay. 

Miner Family Napa Valley Chardonnay 2018

Miner is a family-owned winery sited up against the eastern hills of the Oakville appellation in the heart of Napa Valley. Founded in 1998 by former Oracle software executive Dave and Emily Miner, Miner Family Winery crafts wines sourced from fruit from estate and select grower's vineyards. This release was sourced from the Napa Valley Holman, Hyde and Genny’s Vineyards.

Winemaker Notes: "Sourced from low-yielding vineyards in Napa Valley, this Chardonnay is characterized by crisp apple, ripe melon and citrus flavors gently balanced with toasty French oak."

This was rated 92 points by James Suckling, 90 points by Wine & Spirits and 87 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Straw colored, medium bodied, rich forward green apple, pear and tangy citrus fruits with notes of mango and mineral on a creamy finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3448852

https://minerwines.com/ 

With my entree beef tenderloin I ordered from the WBTG selection this Raymond "R" California Cabernet Sauvignon. 

Raymond "R" Collection California Cabernet Lot No. 1 2018

This is the budget value collection of Raymond Family wines. The Lot No. 1 refers to the first grape varietal produced by the winery, Cabernet Sauvignon. 
 
The Raymond family arrived in Napa Valley in 1933 and became connected to the Beringer family via marriage in 1936. Roy Raymond worked as winemaker for Beringer from 1933-1970. 

In 1970, Ray and his two sons set out on their own with the 90-acre estate property in Rutherford just south of St. Helena off St Helena highway at Zinfandel Lane where the winery is located. The first Raymond Vineyards label was released in 1974.

Today Raymond is affiliated with the French Burgundy Boisset Collection of global properties.  

This was basic easy casual sipping as a nice accompaniment to the beef tenderloin and dark brown sauce.

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3451525

https://raymondvineyards.com/

For the dessert course Linda selected Raspberry Creme Brulee and I the Chocolate souffle.  This turned into a bit of a kurfuffle as they served us the wrong entree's from another table and never really were able to recover in correcting the situation. 

https://www.tallgrassrestaurant.com/