Italian Village Dinner features Amarone and Brunllo di Montalcina

Team Dinner at Italian Village features Amarone and Brunello di Montalcina

With my management team in town for planning meetings we ended the day with dinner at my usual host site, Italian Village.

As is customary, we dined in our usual private room so we could have an intimate working dinner. And. as usual, friend and Wine Director Jared Gelband selected a couple of ideal wines to complement our authentic Italian dinners.

Several of the group had the trio of vitello with three different preparations. I had my favorite, Veal Marsala entree with the brown mushroom sauce which is a perfect complement to the Amarone Volpolicella red wine.

For our starters and salad course had a Sangiovese based Brunello Di Montalcino from Caprili. As we moved to the entree course we drank an Amarone della Valpolicella from Giuseppe Lonardi.

Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2013

I asked for a Sangiovese varietal wine which calls for Brunello di Montalcino. Jared served this Caprilli which paired well with our salad and  Anitposto courses.

Brunello di Montalcino is from the area surrounding the town of Montalcino which is located south of Florence in the Tuscany wine region. Brunello is the designation for wine produced with 100% Sangiovese varietal grape.

Since 1980, Brunello di Montalcino has been designated DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status, which refers to quality controls and guaranteed designation of origin. This is akin to the American AVA with regards to to place of origin, and the French AOC - Appellation Origin Controlee system which regulates quality. DOCG labelled wines are analyzed and tasted by government–licensed personnel before being bottled. To prevent later manipulation, DOCG wine bottles are sealed with a numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork.


This was garnet colored, medium bodied, lighter than I expected, slightly astringent with bright acidity, bright red fruits accented by notes of spice, minerals, leather dusty earthiness and hints of smoke with fine tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2607727
 

Giuseppe Lonardi Amarone della Valpolicella

Corte Lonardi is a small winery located in Marano, in the heart of Valpolicella. The owner, Silvia Lonardi is the daughter of founder and namesake Giuseppe Lonardi whose life was immersed in wine and cuisine, growing up in the vineyards and the family owned tavern.

Silvia’s great-grandfather Giuseppe, was a restaurateur, as was her grandfather Aldo. Giuseppe began producing wine in the early 80s with his friend and winemaker Roberto Ferrarini.

Today Silvia produces high-quality wines which reveal the terroir of the Valpolicella region and the soil of the Marano hills 1000 feet above sea level above the Marano di Valpolicella valley. Valpolicella is in the province of Verona, within the large Veneto region near Venice in northeastern Italy.

Amarone della Valpolicella, also known as Amarone for short, is a red wine blended from the Corvina (45–95%, of which up to 50% could be substituted with Corvinone), Rondinella (5–30%) and other approved red grape varieties (up to 25%). 

In Italian, the name Amarone literally means "the Great Bitter" which distinguished it from Recioto and Repasso wines produced in the same region, which tend to lighter and slightly sweeter in taste.

What distinguishes Amarone from other wines is that the grapes are partially dried for approximately  90 days before pressing, which results in higher degree of residual sweetness and lower acidity. The resulting wines allows long aging and have a distinctive flavor profile described as full, warm, velvety notes and notes of ripe fruit and woodland tones. Amarones are often consumed ten to fifteen years after harvest.

Volpolicella wines are designated DOCG status.

Giuseppe Lonardi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2011

This was bright deep garnet colored, full rich concentrated ripe sweet red fruits accented by notes of leather and tobacco leaf with hints of forest on the firm but polished finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2114460

http://www.lonardivini.it/wines/?lang=en

http://www.italianvillage-chicago.com/

Piedlong CDP foie gras Il Fiore Langham NY

Piedlong CDP and Auxey-Duresses with Foie Gras small plates at Il Fiore Langham Hotel NYC

Langham Hotel Lobby Desk

During our NYC getaway weekend, before dinner, we stopped in the Michelin star Il Fiore restaurant bar in the tony Langham Hotel in NYC.

We were seeking small plates and some wine from their extraordinary selection for a casual setting. Not often does one have the choice of Phelps Insignia, Tignanello, Sea Smoke, Quilceda Creek, Cos d' Estournal and Vieux Telegraph BTG (By-The-Glass)!

I selected the Torchon Foie Gras with tart cherries and winter squash (shown below) which was perfect for the occasion and was spectacular with Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Piedlong.

Linda had the crispy grilled artichokes with parmesan and lemon aoli, with a Benjamin Leroux Auxey-Duresses Burgundy Pinot Noir which was not on the winelist and was substituted for our initial selection.

Il Fiore offers a elegant but casual comfortable setting for a delightful food and wine experience, albeit rather expensive, but in-line with New York prices and such quality premium offerings. We look forward to returning for dinner there during a future trip.



Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Piedlong 2013 

The BTG winelist (shown below) specifically said 'La Crau', which refers to the flagship CDP offering from this Domaine, but this label was served instead.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe has been run by the Brunier family for six generations, since 1891. The estate’s vineyards sit on the Plateau of La Crau, the highest point, in the appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Back in the 1800's , Claude Chappe, inventor of the optical telegraph, built a signal tower on the property due to its high elevation in the region, hence the property was given the name “Vieux Télégraphe”.

This Piedlong label was first released in 2011. It comes from a 29 acre vineyard site from the stony soils on the Piedlong plateau in the heart of the appellation, north of the village, the highest point in the region. The Mourvèdre, comes from the Pignan lieu-dit, just to the east of Piedlong. We visited the Vieux Télégraphe estate during our CDP appellation tour back in 1998 and then again this year during our 2019 visit with owner/producer Alain Brunier at the Estate.

This label is a blend of 90% Genache Noir and 10% Mourvèdre. Comprised of but two varietals, its a simpler less complex wine than the flagship label which under appellation rules can contain up to thirteen different varietals.

This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant black currant and black raspberry fruits, notes of spicy cinnamon, hints of dust, tangy cherry, tapenade and mushroom with a smooth soft peppery lingering finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2880773

http://www.vieux-telegraphe.fr/en


Benjamin Leroux Auxey-Duresses Pinot Noir 2015

Il Fiore restaurant bar

Another substitution on the winelist, this label has a rouge and a blanc variant. We were looking for the blanc Chardonnay, but they served the rouge Pinot Noir instead.

Auxey-Duresses (pronounced “Oh-see”) is an appellation is in the famous Côte de Beaune area in the region of Burgundy, surrounded by two famous neighbors, Volnay and Meursault.

Readers of these pages know we don't do many Burgundies, mostly because we favor the Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) over the Burgundy Pinot Noir.

Also, I'm not knowledgeable in all the myriad of appellations and producers from the region and find it a bit confusing and mystifying. This is much the case for many folks, for many regions, but its especially challenging for Burgundy with all the mini and micro producers and labels that typifies what this regions is known for.

My advice to folks is to focus on one region, gather knowledge and experiences as a baseline and for comparisons, especially if one is going to start collecting wines.

We selected this Benjamin Leroux Pinot Noir from the Auxey-Duresses appellation, an area noted for high QPR and excellent value.

This is the label of Benjamin Leroux, manager/winemaker of Domaine Comte Armand who launched this label with the 2007 vintage. Leroux's Auxey-Duresses are from fruit sourced from vineyards that he manages, vineyards he owns, and he also buys fruit (never juice or wine) from growers with whom he works closely so to meet his standards.

The vineyards lie below the village of Beaune, adjacent to the Meursault Villages Les Vireuils Dessus and Les Meix Chavaux. The land is north-facing so it is affected by the cold air rolling down from the Hautes-Côtes.

The wines here come from three terroirs in this cool, mineral (rocky) place - Les Hautés, La Macabrée and Les Boutonniers. The oldest vines date back to 1946, planted just after the war. The vineyards span 2 hectares, large for this area where many of the properties are tiny in comparison. Hence Auxey-Duresses is a primary wine for Leroux.

Leroux's Auxey-Duresses is produced in a new winery in the center of the village of Beaune (just off the Boulevard) that is also used by Dominique Lafon and two other wine growers. The operation is very small and specializes in Puligny and Volnay, but there are over twenty different labels produced, in this ‘micro negociant’ operation.

Like so many Burgundy operations that are small, even tiny, only two to five barrels are produced from many of the offerings, resulting in extraordinary fragmentation and granularity in the plethora of small production labels.

This Pinot Noir was somewhat opaque, light in color and body, with blackberry and black cherry fruits accented by tones of leather, dusty rose and spice with smooth soft tannins on the finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2911060

Liparita Napa Cab 2014

Liparita Napa Cab 2014 Complements Grilled Steak Dinner

Traveling to our state capital on business, I stopped in the recently opened local Binny's store to select some wine for carry out dinner back at the hotel. I opted for this Napa Cabernet that at under $20 sale price promised high QPR (quality price ratio).

I've written earlier in these pages about the 'old' Liparita brand from the nineties. The actual original brand dates back to the historic beginnings of wine in America back in the 1880's when William Keyes, a geologist, settled in Napa Valley and discovered the Howell Mountain terroir with its volcanic soils which he felt would be ideal for wine. The soils reminded him of those on Lipari Island, a volcanic archipelago off the coast of Sicily, which became the inspiration for the name “Liparita.”

Like many other early wineries, Liparita succumbed to the restraints of Prohibition and the attacks of phylloxera on the early vine plantings. The Liparita brand resurfaced briefly during the nineties and then after waning was purchased was relaunched by Spencer Hoopes who purchased it in 2006.  Hoopes focuses on producing and remarketing Napa Valley appellation specific wines.

This revitalized Liparita label replicates the original early 1880's design, and that original intent to produce great cabernets from the various notable vineyard regions from across Napa Valley. “We are reawakening William Keyes’ dream for Liparita.” says Hoopes.

This was dark blackish garnet colored, medium-full bodied, firm, tightly wound black berry fruits with notes of smoke, hints of black cherry, dark mocha, black pepper and black olive on a tangy finish. It was an ideal complement to my carry out New York strip steak and baked potato dinner.

RM 89 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2815557

Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur 2005

Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur 2005

Watching our alma mater play in the national championship College Cup, we pulled a sipper from the cellar to drink with leftovers from the week. This Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur was perfect for Sunday afternoon sipping with hearty Anglie's Italian leftovers.

Chateau du Reignac dates back to the 17th century and has 200 acres of vineyards sitting on a gravelly plateau overlooking the peninsula town of Saint-Loubès, France, a suburb of Bordeaux adjacent to the Dordogne River.

Bordeaux Supérieur is an appellation, or officially designated wine district in the Bordeaux region in southwest France along the Gironde River around the town of Bordeaux. Bordeaux Supérieur wine is typically produced by single parcels of older vines. To receive the Bordeaux Supérieur designation, the wines must be aged for at least nine months before they can be sold.

As with regular Bordeaux wines, these are blends with the reds being predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with smaller amounts of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and even some Carmenere.

Typically, wines on the north and east side of the diagonally flowing river are predominantly Merlot varietal based, accented by Cabernet Saugvignon, and the rest, the lesser varietals. Wines produced on the south and west side of the river, are typically predominantly Cabernet Saugvignon, accented by Merlot.

There are also some white Bordeaux wines produced. The whites are produced from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon grape varietals with smaller amounts of Muscadelle, and occasionally Ugni Blanc, and Sauvignon Gris.

Under the appellation guidelines of French appellation law, in order to be designated a Bordeaux Supérieur wine, it must conform to strict rules. A Bordeaux Supérieur classified wine must come from a vineyard that is planted to a certain density, higher than that of non-classified wines. There must be 4,500 plants per hectare (2 acres per hectare) with a distance of 2.2 meters between rows, compared to 4,000 plants per hectare with a distance of 2.5 meters between rows for regular Bordeaux. This higher density makes it harder for the plants to survive creating stronger deeper roots, and healthier vines for the ones that do. The higher density results in increased concentrated fruit and a lower yield, about 10 percent lower per hectare. Also, the grapes must be picked riper at harvest with higher natural sugar levels resulting in 10 percent natural alcohol level compared to 9.5 percent for regular Bordeaux.

Bordeaux Supérieur wines can be found anywhere in the Bordeaux region, but are mostly found in the area north of St. Emilon and Pomerol (on the north and east side of the River). The result of these differences usually creates a superior wine with a richer and more complex flavor.

Chateau du Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur 2005

Deep ruby/purple color, medium-full bodied, nicely balanced, black currant and black berry fruits, notes of mocha chocolate, anise, graphite and spice box, moderate concentration and acidity, supple ripe tannin makes for pleasant smooth easy casual drinking.

This is a blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=212134

Hall Rutherford Winery Estate Appellation Tasting

Hall Rutherford Winery Estate Appellation Tasting

Our visit to the Hall Rutherford Estate has been one of the highlights of previous Napa Valley trips so we recommended it as one of the short list visits to son Ryan and Michelle for their recent Napa trip. Based on his glowing report and recommendation, we decided to return to Hall for a tasting of their new releases during our recent Sonoma Napa Wine Experience 2017.

Like Del Dotto and some of the other top Napa producers, Hall have significantly expanded their operations, facilities, number of labels, and achievement of top ranked, most highly acclaimed ultra premium labels including the spectacular 99 and 100 point ranked wines which we tasted below.

We wrote in earlier visit blogposts about the spectacular Hall Rutherford estate and cave tours at the Rutherford estate sitting in the Sacrashe Vineyard, above Auberge du Soleil Relaix au Chateau, below the Hall estate residence. The facility has hospitality rooms above the wine production area, barrel caves and tasting room below.

The magnificent caves are sculpted into the mountain with bricks brought from an Austrian castle and features alcoves that create a galley of sculpture art.

The magnificent tasting room (shown left) at the end of the barrel cave features a large table for thirty guests underneath a massive chandelier fashioned from a thousand year old grape vine.

We were hosted this day by 'Wine Educator' Bob Childs (pictured below).

In the hospitality center, before we walked down the hill to the winery, barrel and tasting room caves below, we tasted:

Hall T-Bar-T Sonoma County Alexander Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2016

Walts "the Corners" Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2014

The lower level winery underneath the hospitality center houses the large stainless steel cooling jacket shrouded fermentation tanks. Even the production facility is bathed in the light of artistic neon lights overhead. The custom built tanks are contoured to fit into the room. Centered between the adjacent rows of tanks are double doors that enter to the caves. The long barrel lined cave doubles as an art gallery with the many alcoves featuring sculpture artworks. At the end of the cave is the entrance to the tasting room.

We tasted the Hall Appellation tasting flight featuring the latest releases of a selection the Hall premium and ultra-premium labels from the different Napa appellations paired with specially prepared appropriate culinary chef's selections.


The Hall Appellation Tasting flight:

Hall "Bergfield" Vineyard St Helena Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 

This is from the Hall St Helena Estate Vineyard in the St Helena appellation which surrounds the town in a crescent shape to the north, east and south. St Helena is also the site of Hall's large St Helena operations on Hwy 29 just south of town with winery, production, and a hospitality center that offers the range of Estate and Hall branded labels. The ultra-premium and Platinum labels are reserved for the esteemed Rutherford site.

Winemaker Steve Leveque's notes: "The highly aromatic nose carries aromas of boysenberry, warm pie crust, brown spice, with floral and earthy undertones. Exotic flavors of wild berry coulis, 5-spice, black tea and cedar come through on the palate. Dense, lush and powerful tannins lead into a long and intensely fruity finish.

Hall Diamond Mountain Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

It was fortuitous and fitting to taste a Diamond Creek appellation selection following our visit to the legendary Diamond Creek Vineyards on Diamond Mountain earlier in the week. 

Like Diamond Creek's, Hall's description of the Diamond Creek appellation speaks to the porous volcanic derived soils which are memorialized in the Diamond Creek single vineyard designated labels.

Winemaker Steve Leveque's tasting notes: The flavors and aromas of this wine reveal a dusty and earthy character interwoven with notes of black cherry and German chocolate cake. Dense, silky tannins with a dark chocolate-like texture express age-worthy wine. The full power of this wine unwinds into a lengthy finish in the glass.

This wine was awarded 97 points by Robert Parker Wine Advocate.

I plan to acquire the '15 vintage of this label and look forward to comparison tasting it against the Diamond Creek Vineyards releases we acquired this week.


Hall Exzellenz Rutherford Sacrashe Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

This is sourced from the Sacrashe Vineyard that lies just above the winery adjacent to the estate residence. We hold some of the earlier single vineyard designated wines from this vineyard dating back to 1998. Who knew this would evolve and progress to such heights? Not often does one get to taste a 'perfect' wine. of course perfection is in the eyes ('eyze') of the beholder. This wine got 100 points from Robert Parker.

Parker wrote of this wine; "This hails from the foothills of Rutherford and refers to Kathryn Hall’s ambassadorship to Austria between 1997 and 2001. A prodigious wine with beautiful floral notes intermingled with blueberry, blackberry, black raspberry and graphite, the wine hits the palate with a full-bodied force, but nothing seems pushed, cloying or out of sync. Gorgeously pure blue and black fruits cascade over the palate, a full-bodied presentation with remarkable purity and complexity. The finish is a good 45-50 seconds, and while there is significant tannin, the extravagance of the fruit and glycerin generally conceal it. This is a remarkable, one-of-a-kind, world class Cabernet Sauvignon that should prove compelling for at least another 30-40+ years."

Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate. 100 Points.



 Hall Jack's Masterpiece Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Another 'perfect' wine by most anyone's standards, this one got 99 points from Mr. Parker, as close to perfection as possible. This was another memorable wine of epic proportions.

Son Ryan obtained some '13 (birth year of his daughter (our grandaughter) Marleigh) during his recent visit, which is all gone. I'm planning to get the '15 on the upcoming release (birthyear of two grandkids, Jessie and Reid).

"The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Jack’s Masterpiece, which is a blend from their finest vineyards, displays super-sweet tannins, an opaque purple color and beautiful crème de cassis, blueberry and blackberry fruit. Its flawless integration of acidity, tannin, wood and alcohol and its opulent, full-bodied mouthfeel make for a true elixir and fabulous Cabernet Sauvignon to drink now or cellar for 25-30 more years. I would still try to defer gratification for 2-3 years prior to drinking this big boy."

Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate 99 Points.
 
Hall Bishop Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 

Our wines were paired with:

Applewood Smoked Trout Creme & Truffle Marieke Gouda

Sonoma duck Terrine & Cave-Aged  11 Month Gruyere

Cacciatore Salumi & Dolcelatte with Fig Conserve

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2014

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2014 at Corkscrew wine shop in Springfield

In downstate Springfield, IL on business, colleague Eric W and I stopped in The Corkscrew wine shop for a casual wine tasting. Primarily a wine shop, they provide a nice selection of wines and a modest selection of cheeses, but also have a wine bar with casual seating for a small wine party or a simple tasting. For an impromptu tasting, we selected the latest release of Clio which was perfect accompaniment to some artisan cheeses - a spectrum of French Brie and Swiss to a bold Danish Blue.

Clio is a label from El Nido, a partnership between the Gil family and Chris Ringland, one of Australia's best known winemakers. The winery is in the Valley of the Aragona, 10 kilometers north of the town of Jumilla. Their vineyards are in the "top boundary", or the area of the highest altitude in the region. They produce Estate wines, (meaning they grow their own grapes) that are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from their 29 acres of vineyards, and the Monastrell varietal from 79 acres of very old vines in small plots. They produce very low yields that result in rich concentrated wines. They have two labels, Clio, a blend of Monastrell accented by Cabernet, and their ultra-premium flagship El Nido which is predominantly Cabernet, accented by Monastrell. They also have a few acres of Syrah that they produce under the label Corteo. Their first vintage release of the brands El Nido and Clio occurred in 2002. They've had a succession of highly rated and acclaimed releases ever since.

Jumilla is the town as well as a Denominación de Origen (DO), the Spanish official designation of an appellation or viticulture growing area, like the American AVA or the French AOC. The area is in the north of the city of Murcia and includes the municipality of its namesake Jumilla and the contiguous southeast of the Albacete province in the Castile-La Mancha region in southeast Spain. The area lies between the Mediterranean coastal area and the high central plateaus of the foothills leading up to the mountains. The altitude of the vineyards vary between 400 and 800 meters which moderates the heat of the climate. There are about 65,000 acres of vineyards in the Jumilla DO, 45% of which are in Murcia and 55% in Albacete. There are about 3,000 grape-growers registered in the region. The widely planted Monastrell grape is the same varietal as France’s Mourvèdre, a common grape in the French Rhone Valley and in Australia. (Monastrell is the 'M' in the red 'GSM' blend from those regions - Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre or Monastrell). The Monastrell produced in Jumilla is often considered the best. 

The town of Jumilla is becoming a popular tourist destination along the Jumilla Wine Route that traverses  the Region of Murcia. The city of Murcia is a historic picturesque old town, and the surrounding area produces wines which are becoming ever more recognized at the national and international level.

Clio is the one Spanish wine we collect each year and hold in our cellar in a vertical collection of a series of vintages. It is a consistently high-achieving highly rated wine in a style that we like - big, full bodied, bold, with concentrated forward fruit. I recommend this as a must have in any cellar, for a big thick dense opulent wine to have on hand for impressing guests or anytime tasting enjoyment. At $40, its more suitable for special occasions than an every day wine for most folks. It begs for hearty cheeses, spicy pasta, BBQ or even a charbroiled steak.

Consider the impressive track record for this wine over the last several years. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate scores for this wine: 2003 - 96 points; 2004 - 97 points; 2005 - 95 points; 2006 - 95 points; 2007 - 94 points, 2008 - 94 points, 2009 - 90 points.

This latest release follows in this tradition of a bold wine that provides instant, early gratification, or one that can be aged for several years to settle a bit. As is customary, this Clio is a blend of 70% old vine Monastrell and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon that was barrel-aged for 22-26 months in French and American oak.

The 2014 release bears Clio's hallmark opulence, a powerful, decadent wine with bold aromas and flavors, a thick, dense palate, and a long finish.

Like its traditional lineage of vintages, the 2014 vintage is another huge powerful fruit bomb. Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, 15.5% alcohol with dense concentrated blackberry and black raspberry fruits with layers of complex flavors of dark mocha, graphite, expresso and tongue coating dusty tannins on the big long finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=2247520

http://bodegaselnido.com/en/

http://www.thecorkscrew.com/

 

Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur 2005

Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur 2005

A quiet Friday night at home in front of the fire with a movie, we had grilled steak, baked apples and this supple casual sipping red Bordeaux Supérieur wine.

Bordeaux Supérieur is another of those designations that adds to the confusion or complexity of Bordeaux wines and therefore makes them somewhat intimidating to many who are trying to decipher the numerous labels. Its not enough that there are over fifty appellations in the greater Bordeaux region, but there are also regional AOC, designations that may be used throughout the region.

Bordeaux Supérieur is one of seven regional Appellations d'origine contrôlée (AOCs) that may be used throughout the Gironde (the river valley that forms the region). They are Bordeaux Rouge AOC, Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge, Bordeaux Clairet, Bordeaux Rosé, Bordeaux Blanc, a dry white, and Bordeaux Supérieur Blanc, a sweet white, and Crémant de Bordeaux, a sparkling wine. 

The regional appellations together form the largest world-class wine vineyard, making up more than half of the production of the Bordeaux wine region. and representing more than 55% of all Bordeaux wines consumed in the world.

These generally are entry-level Bordeaux wines, and tend to be fruity and easy-to-drink, suitable for early consumption rather than longer term cellaring. The more ambitious reds are usually sold as Bordeaux Supérieur AOC. As I have written often in these pages, in top vintages, 'all boats rise with the tide', and even these lower priced entry level wines can be very good, even exceptional, offering great high QPR (quality price ratio) values. So look for these designations in years of ideal growing conditions resulting in above average wines for great value.

The Bordeaux Supérieur appellation covers the same geographic area as Bordeaux AOC. They are often produced by single parcels of older vines. In all cases, Bordeaux Supérieur wines must be aged for at least twelve months before they can be sold.

Just like most regular Bordeaux, these are blends, with the reds being predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with smaller amounts of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and increasingly Malbec, and occasionally, some Carmenere. Those produced on the north and easterly side of the Gironde River, known as 'Right Bank' wines, tend to be predominantly Merlot accented by Cabernet, while those on the opposite side (westerly south side - "Left Bank") are primarily Cabernet accented by Merlot, and the lesser accent varietals.

Bordeaux Superieur can be found anywhere in Bordeaux, but most regional Bordeaux AOC wines are produced on the Right Bank. and tend to be from the area north of St. Emilon and Pomerol.

As in all the Bordeaux AOC wines, there are strict rules that govern the vineyards and wines in order to carry the designation label. Under the strict guidelines of French appellation law, for a Bordeaux to be classified as Superieur, it must come from a vineyard that is planted to a specific density with 4,500 plants per hectare with a distance of 2.2 meters between rows, compared to 4,000 plants per hectare with a distance of 2.5 meters between rows for regular Bordeaux. This higher density stresses the vines, since it is harder for the plants to survive, resulting in stronger deeper roots, and generally healthier vines. The result of these practices usually creates a superior wine with a richer and more complex flavor.

Reignac is a large 200-acre vineyard that sits on a high plateau near the village of Saint-Loubès. Reignac are known to produce consistent high achieving wines that are superior to the modest appellation (Bordeaux Supérieur) designation. The proprietors Yves and Stephanie Vatelot turned out a superlative effort in this vintage that is cru classé quality. The 2005 may be one of the all-time great Reignacs.

Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate said of this wine, "Despite its humble appellation, this is a very serious wine that is qualitatively up there with some of the better classified growths of the Medoc." He gave it 90 points.

Deep ruby/purple color, medium-full bodied, nicely balanced, black currant and black berry fruits, notes of mocha chocolate, anise, graphite and spice box, moderate concentration and acidity, supple ripe tannin makes for pleasant smooth easy casual drinking.

This 2005 Reignac was 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon.

RM 89 points. 
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 90 points.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar 88-90 points.
Wine Spectator 90 points.

Previously reviewed - http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/12/reignac-bordeaux-superieur-2005.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=212134

Château Poujeaux Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel Moulis en Médoc Grand Vin de Bordeaux 2000

Château Poujeaux Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, AOC Moulis en Médoc, Grand Vin de Bordeaux 2000

Cousin Anna stopped in, traveling enroute to reporting to military duty in California, so we held an impromptu family reunion for the occasion, including sis Dr Pat who came up from Indy for the occasion. Son Ryan pulled from the cellar this Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux, Château Poujeaux, to accompany Linda's homemade lasagna for the family dinner.

Good grief! No wonder folks find 'old world' (ie. French, Italian) wines mystifying. The complexity of labels and branding can be overwhelming, even for the oenophile (there we go again, aka wine geek). This complexity is due to a combination of magnitude (9000 producers with 300000 acres in Bordeaux vs 300 and 25000 in Napa) 600 different grape varietals in Italy, complexity (AOC - 57 appellations in Bordeaux vs 17 in Napa), and history (centuries vs decades), all exacerbated by difference of (foreign) language. This label is an example of history adding to the complexity and mystery of foreign labels.

Many are aware of the famous 1855 classification that categorized French Bordeaux wines into different levels based on reputation, historic consistency of quality of product. Never mind they referred to them as 'Growths' - first growth, second growth, third and so on ... which was their level based on reputation, not age of vines or any such thing.

But there were many producers not included in this classification. So in 2003, the Cru Bourgeois classification was created to recognize some of the châteaux from the Médoc, (the area of the left bank or southwest side of the Gironde River that bisects the Bordeaux growing region), from those that were not included in the 1855 Classification of Crus Classés, or Classed Growths.

Generally, the Cru Bourgeois classification is a level below Cru Classé, but still of respectable, high quality. Some say that there is some overlap in quality between the Classed Growths and the Cru Bourgeois, but the Classed Growths are generally viewed as being the better wines.

The Cru Bourgeois list was initially drawn up by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and Chamber of Agriculture in 1932, selecting 444 estates for the classification. The words Cru Bourgeois were widely used on labels by the châteaux so listed, but the classification was never officially ratified. In 2000, there was a major revision of the classification, dividing it into three tiers. This new classification was finalized in 2003 and reduced the number of châteaux listed to 247. Excluding so many producers created great acrimony and controversy, resulting in legal wrangling such that the 2003 Cru Bourgeois classification was nullified by the French court in 2007, and all use of the term was banned.

The 2003 Cru Bourgeois classification, annulled in 2007, classified 247 properties in three tiers: Exceptionnel (9 properties), Supérieurs (87 properties) and straight Bourgeois (151 properties). Those Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels are the the most widely known and recognized due to their notoriety. with their level commanding a higher pricepoint and being more likely to be exported to foreign markets including the US. This is both cause and effect.

While the new Cru Bourgeois classification was being prepared, six out of nine of the former Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel decided to remain outside the new one-tier classification. Instead, they formed a group named Les Exceptionnels, primarily to collaborate in joint promotion such as common marketing events. Château Poujeaux is a member of this group, along with other better known chateaux, also likely to be found in the US market, such as Château Chasse-Spleen, Château Les Ormes-de-Pez, Château de Pez, Château Potensac, and Château Siran.

The Cru Bourgeois label was reintroduced in 2010, but in a significantly revised form, consisting of only one level, awarded annually as a mark of quality, but to wines rather than to châteaux. The designation was based on an assessment of both production methods and the finished product. Any property in the Médoc was eligible to apply for the list which was updated and published approximately 2 years after the vintage, so the 2008 list was published in 2010, and the 2009 list was published in 2011 and so on. The 2009 list includes 246 wines. 
 
So it is with this one sub-region of Bordeaux, the Cru Bourgeois classification.

Château Poujeaux thus lies in the wine-producing district of Moulis-en-Médoc, a commune (village) in the wine-producing area of Médoc. The commune produces wine with a good reputation which benefits from the appellation of Moulis, which is one of six communal appellations of the Haut-Médoc vineyards.

It is one of the most highly regarded wines within Moulis, alongside Château Chasse-Spleen. As explained above, Château Poujeaux was one of just nine to be placed in the highest category of the 2003 classification of Cru Bourgeois wines, Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels. The property was owned by the Theil family until early 2008, when it was bought by Philippe Cuvelier, who is also owner of Clos Fourtet. Jean Thiel is cited on this label.

Château Poujeaux' vineyards cover 52 hectares (130 acres) and produces about 25,000 cases of wine per year. The grape varieties used are the typical classic Bordeaux varietals in 'left bank' proportions, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. As is customary in the region, they also produce a second wine branded under the second label name La Salle de Poujeaux.

Interesting, that while being a rather large producer with broad distribution, they have a modest, one-page website in text only, in French only.

The 2000 vintage of Bordeaux was high quality, highly rated vintage and promises to be long-lived. At seventeen years, this is in its prime drinking window, it could continue to improve further with age and should still have a decade or more of life left at this level. As in the greater Bordeaux, this is a top rated vintage and is one of the better releases from this secondary producer. As in such top vintages, all boats rise with the tide, and as such this is a high QPR wine, more affordable than many higher rated labels from the vintage, but of  close to equivalent quality.

This was bright dark brick red colour with hues of purple, medium bodied with moderately complex concentrated blackberry fruits accented by a layer of leather with hints of truffle, herbs, and cassis, nice approachable acidity and supple round tannins on the finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2575

http://www.chateaupoujeaux.com/

Spring Valley Vineyard Uriah Red Bordeaux Blend 2003

Spring Valley Vineyard Uriah Walla Walla Valley Red Bordeaux Blend 2003

After going to see Brad Pitt's new (movie) release, "Allied", (okay, but far from blockbuster, love story, war action, intrigue to the end), we settled in at home with Netflix, some wine and a plate of cheese, fruit and nuts. After the recent tasting of the Columbia Valley Syrah this week, I had a taste for another wine from the region. I wanted something of quality and complexity, so I pulled this Spring Valley Vineyard Uriah Red Bordeaux Blend from the Walla Walla Valley in Washington.

I wrote about this producer and label in an earlier blogpost. 

This has the profile of a 'Right Bank' Pomerol (AOC) Bordeaux, with a blend predominantly of Merlot 77%, with Cabernet Franc 22% and Petit Verdot 1%.

For neophytes, 'Right Bank' refers to areas to the north and east of the Gironde River that runs diagonally through the Bordeaux region, while 'Left Bank' refers to those areas to the west and south. While all Bordeaux (AOC - appellation original controlle wines - subscribe to the rules of the appellation governing such things), consist of 'Bordeaux varietals' - Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot, accented by Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, perhaps some Malbec, Left Bank wines are predominantly Merlot, while those from the Right Bank are mainly Cabernet Sauvignon.

The last time I tasted this wine was eighteen months ago when I wrote, "This is the oldest of ten vintages we hold of this wine and is the last bottle from this year. This is a Merlot based Bordeaux blend. At fourteen years its likely at the apex of its tasting window/curve." Well, obviously it wasn't the last bottle, bottle variations aside, it certainly was at its apex as the bright fruits have started to diminish slightly, taking on a sense of overripe, raisin tones, and starting to give way to the non-fruit notes of tea, graphite and cigar box. The spicy tones of the Cabernet Franc are starting to show through.

In a tasting note from the period, I wrote the same thing about the 2004 vintage, "the fruits are starting to subside a bit and give way to non-fruit tones".  All that said, the same profile remains ...

I said above, 'bottle variations aside', but perhaps this bottle represents more the true character of this label, because I've written this about the 2005 vintage, "Definitely needs some time - decant and let breathe. A bit harsh up front with cedar and tar overpowering black currant and black berry fruits - turns to vanilla with creme brulee burnt sugar on the long firm tannin filled finish."

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, bright vibrant flavors (starting to fade) of black berry, cherry and currants with (increasing predominant) tones of tea and cigar box turning to mild tannins and lively acidity on the long, silky, finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=148343

http://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/

 

DOC serves winning casual wine-dine experience

DOC serves winning casual wine-dine experience

Wife Linda often works at Yorktown in Lombard on Friday evenings so we regularly meet there for a casual date night wine and dine encounter at DOC. They regularly feature a selection of wine flights - three different wines of the same style for sharing/comparing. Their menu offers mostly small plates and sides suitable for wine pairing vs an extensive selection of entrees. So it was tonight that we chose the premium Reserve Flight to accompany my selection of sushi grade Ahi Tuna and Linda's pulled pork 'sliders', with a side of our favored polenta fries. All the foods were excellent and the service was attentive, friendly and effective.

The DOC folks actually have nine different locations around Chicagoland, four of those being operated under the DOC brand. 

Note for those so interested, their name is actually D.O.C. and stands for "Denominazione di Origine Controllata" (DOC) ("Controlled Denomination of Origin") which is Italy's equivalent of France's AOC - Appellation  D'Origine Controlee or America's AVA's for American Viticultural Area. The Italian DOC, like the other Appellation designations, are a defined geographic area and its designated production for wines produced from grapes grown in that area and includes specifications for the varieties that can be used, the minimum alcohol content, the maximum yield, and the specifications for aging.

The Reserve wine flight featured three bold expressive concentrated wines at the top of the range of styles from light to big and bold. Two of three of the wines were our favorite and most oft selected wines, Syrah and Cabernet, while the third was a Tempranillo, in which we rarely imbibe.

We've dined there often and tonight's experience rated as the most enjoyable ever. My Ahi tuna was wonderful and the wine flight scored highest over our previous encounters, even with one gaining lower marks. Lastly, during the summer months we will dine outside and always before we dined in the main dining room which tends to be dark. Tonight we dined in their 'Tasting Room' adjacent to the main dining room, behind the bar. This casual setting with the large fireplace and couches, and our table adjacent the large windows was most comfortable and pleasant.

The American centric wine selection is extensive with the actual wine list spanning ten pages - more than twenty each of American Pinot Noirs, California Chardonnays and Cabernets including popular and favored selections Robert Craig, Caymus, Silver Oak, David Arthur Elevation, Keenan, Cakebread, Darioush and Lakoya. They also offer half bottles and an extensive selection of wines BTG - by the glass. The wine prices tend to be a bit expensive, slightly more than 2x retail for bottle selections, and by the glass, and the Wine Flights are too, based on the amount of wine served for the price point. These are price points of elegant fine dining restaurants and one would hope to find more value in a casual bistro wine bar. Never-the-less, it does allow a broad selection of choices, BTG, and a series of wine flights, three different wines for about the cost of one and a half glasses, so its a good choice if one's objective is a tasting experience over a single glass of wine.

Tonight's flight -

For precision and the record, note that since we were pressed for time, I didn't inspect the labels of these featured selections and I know the producer's offer several labels of each of these wines. I did search for the bottles in their display case but didn't see any of these that we selected.

Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

While not a 'premium' label based on the plethora and range of high end Napa cabs these day, the Montelena Napa selection is certainly a legendary highest quality label for the category. Most notably, its rare to find such a quality offering BTG - by the glass, except in the most serious or high end wine bars or wine oriented restaurants. Note there are two different Montelena Napa labels, one 'Estate' and one designated 'Calistoga'. I admit I didn't ask to see the label so I am not certain which one this was but I suspect it is the 'non-estate' label. (The term 'Estate' means that all the grapes in the product were sourced from the producer's property. The lack of the term, allows for grapes purchased from other growers to be included.)

Blend: 85.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 0.5% Petit Verdot.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, smooth and polished so approachable and ready to drink now for enjoyable casual sipping, almost sophisticated and complex enough for serious dining, black cherry and dark plum fruits with tones of smoke, tobacco, licorice and hint of cedar.


RM 89 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2197970

Basel Cellars Walla Walla Valley Syrah 2013

Once again I didn't ask to see the label (which I normally do) so I am attributing my notes to their estate label. While their winelist and flight card specify Walla Walla, Oregon, I believe this is in error and they mean Walla Walla Valley in Washington. 

Garnet colored, medium bodied, blackberry fruits with tones of leather and cured meat, hints of pepper, smoke, earth and floral.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2166361

Martinez Bujanda Viña Bujanda Crianza Rioja, Spain

Once again, since we were pressed for time, I didn't inspect the label of this feature and I know they offer several labels of this varietal.

Garnet colored, medium bodied, more modest less expressive blackberry fruits with a layer of tobacco, smoke, tar and hints of clove spice.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2494741

http://www.docwinebarchicago.com/lombard/