James Restaurant "Cab is King" Wine Dinner w/ Bell Wine Cellars Wines

 The James Restaurant "Cab is King" Wine Dinner featuring Bell Wine Cellars Napa Valley Cabernets

We attended the "Cab is King" Wine Dinner with Bell Wine Cellars at The James Restaurant in nearby Geneva (IL). The evening featured a carefully curated multi-course menu prepared by The James Executive Chef, Steven Blackburn, and his culinary team. Each course was thoughtfully paired with a wine from Napa Valley Bell Wine Cellars crafted to enhance the unique characteristics of the food and the wines, creating a harmonious symphony of flavors.

We were joined by fellow Pour Boy Lyle and Terry who came out from the city (Chicago) to attend the event. 

We learned of the event during our lunch at The James last month which we featured in these pages - The James Geneva features wine friendly menu and fine wines.

The dinner was held in the fabulous Sun Porch dining room which provided an elegant picturesque setting for the memorable evening. 

The wine flight featured an extraordinary selection of Bell Wine Cellars' finest limited production and allocated wines. 

Bell Wine Cellars is an ultra-premium Yountville (Napa Valley) winery known for small-lot, single clone, Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as other Bordeaux varietals, Chardonnay and Syrah. They produce several limited production Single-Clone appellation (AVA - American Viticultural area) specific designated Cabernet Sauvignons from leading vineyard sources across Napa Valley. 

Tonight's flight featured four of the Bell Wine Cellars' Napa Valley Cabernets, three Cabernet Sauvignons, a Cabernet Franc and a sparkling white Blanc de Noir from Sonoma County. 

A small independent winery was founded by winemaker Anthony Bell; he recently retired and the Bell Wine Cellars estate and winery in Yountville were taken over and are owned today by the Berberian and Spanos Families.

Visiting from California presenting the wines was Bell Wine Cellars Director of Sales, Hillary Cole, who guided the tasting flight, sharing insights and stories about the wines and their unique characteristics.

Hillary's journey as a Wine Master follows an incredible career as a military linguist and counter-terrorism analyst. Her work travel in national security intelligence took her to Europe where she had the opportunity to visit vineyards in the finest wine growing regions where she was drawn to the serenity and romance of the settings, such a stark contrast to her work. 

Following her government service she earned her MBA and immersed herself in Sommelier studies. She worked her way to become General Manager and Sommelier for three Sacramento-area restaurant groups running the wine program at Ella Dining Room and Bar in Sacramento. 

Hillary completed several wine certification programs, her favorites included French Wine Scholar, Champagne Master Level, Napa Valley Wine Expert, and The Business of Wine. She continues her studies of the French language and is currently a Bordeaux Master candidate. Building on her background in business, wine, and leadership afforded her the position as Director of Sales at Bell Wine Cellars.

Hillary represents the new Bell Wine Cellars team that was brought in by the new owners, the Berberian and Spanos Families.

The Berberian Family were prominent wine and spirits wholesalers for five decades in California and Nevada, and then, owners of the Bank of Agriculture and Commerce, launched in 1965 in Stockton, California. Ron Berberian grew the bank to 11 branches, serving San Joaquin and Contra Costa Counties.  The Berberians’ longstanding knowledge and expertise of quality wines eventually brought them to Napa Valley where Ron and Dea are dedicated to enhancing the experience of visiting Bell Wines and offering the best quality award-winning wines.

The Spanos Family, today most known as owners of the NFL Los Angeles Chargers, were notable in real estate development and construction, and equally known for their philanthropy to education, health, and youth initiatives. Native to Northern California over several generations, Napa Valley and the wine industry always held their interest and admiration with their affiliation with Bell Wine Cellars dating to 2002.

Bell Wine Cellars team with several leading notable growers to source grapes from some of the premiere vineyards that represent the varied appellations of Napa Valley. 

The Bell Wines served tonight were crafted by founder and winemaker Anthony Bell who has since recently retired. Going forward this will be overseen by Winemaker and General Manager John Hazak. A native of southern California, John earned a Master of Science degree in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California, Davis before working in the Cotes-de-Nuits, Burgundy.  Returning from France in 2005, John honed his skills as Assistant Winemaker at Provenance Vineyards under seasoned winemaker Tom Rinaldi, then at Sterling Vineyards as an Associate Winemaker, heading their production of all white wines and Reserve red wine tier. 

He returned to Provenance Vineyards in 2015 to direct production of Provenance and Hewitt wines where he modernized Provenance into a small-lot, luxury Cabernet house, then doing the same at Beaulieu Vineyards in 2017.

John joined Bell Wine Cellars in February of 2020.  His previous experiences paved the way to Bell, where he hopes to continue Bell's vision of craft winemaking and constant improvement, while starting a new chapter with this team. 

"At Bell Wine Cellars, above and beyond is second nature. We encapsulate these efforts as Napa’s most prolific researcher and producer of Single-Clone Cabernet Sauvignon, a labor of equal parts love and diligence to express Cabernet Sauvignon as its own purest ingredient." John Hazak,Winemaker & GM.

The dinner menu featured five courses each thoughtfully paired with a Bell Cellars wine. I write often in these pages about the importance and impact of optimally pairing food and wine, accentuating and amplifying the enjoyment of both. 

The James Executive Chef, Steven Blackburn presented each course and discussed its preparation followed by Bell Cellars Director Hillary Cole who presented the accompanying wine, its composition, source and characteristics in applying it to the course.

The 'Welcome Starter' was a Fried Brioche Munchkin - fresh baked brioche bread injected with Manchego cheese custard, served with Bell Wine Cellars Blanc de Noir Brut Sonoma County NV sparkling wine.

This elegant sparkling wine is made from two of the three traditional grapes used in the Champagne region of France: Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The Pinot Noir (83%) hails from Carneros region, which straddles the southern region of Napa and Sonoma Valleys. The Pinot Meunier (17%) comes from the coastal area of Sonoma.  This traditional Champagne is a blend of the different grapes from different growing conditions, building complexity into the wine, produced in the classic méthode champenoise tradionelle. (Of course, only wine produced in the Champagne region of northern France can legally be called Champagne. Those produced elsewhere are relegated to the moniker 'sparkling wine'.)

This traditional Champagne production method entails adding a dosage of sugar, yeast, and wine to start the second fermentation in the bottle, followed by time-consuming hand riddling to separate the yeast following fermentation. The traditional method creates small, tight, delicate bubbles and an added complexity to the wine. 

 

This non-vintage Blanc de Noirs sparkling wine was disgorged in December of 2021 with the grapes grown primarily in the 2018 growing season.  

Producer's Tasting Notes - "Fresh and lovely as an aperitif to start any dining experience or perfect on its own, this sparkling wine pairs with everything, no matter what or when the occasion. Noting a very faintly salmon-tinged pink color, very fine bubbles and a gentle mousse, the wine opens with a fresh and lively nose of light strawberry and the scents one might find in a bakery early in the morning. The palate is delicate and refined, with toasted almond and unsweetened marzipan characterizing the entry. The beautiful but balanced acidity from these cool growing regions supports merengue, marshmallow and the strawberry flavors into the finish, livening up your taste buds for food. Our Brut is finished in the dry style. The Pinot Noir adds texture, body and strawberry aromas to the blend. The Pinot Meunier  contributes finesse, elegance, freshness and floral hints to the blend."

The first course was Oak Braised Short Rib - charcoal roasted carrot with dry aged beef fat powder, confit cipollini onion, sage demi glas and watercress.

 

Paired with this course was Bell Wine Cellars Napa Valley Rutherford Appellation Cabernet Sauvignon 2018. 

 

Wine for this label was sourced mostly from the legendary Beckstoffer Rutherford AVA Vineyard, and the remainder from the equally iconic BV Ranch #3 vineyard originally planted and tended to by legends George de Latour and André Tchelistcheff of Beaulieu Vineyards in the early part of the 20th century, this historic vineyard carved out of the original Rancho Caymus land grant.

 

We discussed the BV Ranch vineyards in these pages just last week when we tasted and wrote about their BV Tapestry with beef bourgogne.

The well drained gravely, loam sedimentary soils formed from after volcanic rock provide a moderate stress to the vines, limiting yield and increasing qualitative potential. The region is influenced by the Valley’s layer of morning fog and afternoon breeze, creating a long growing season which allows tannins to fully ripen and create the signature dusty texture that the appellation is known for, “The Rutherford Dust”.

It was also one of the first vineyards involved in the development and commercial planting of the different clones of Cabernet Sauvignon.

It was aged 20 months in 100% French Oak, 20% new. Slightly more than 9000 cases were produced.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3892416

The Second Course was Grilled Swordfish served in a delicious black plum reduction sauce with fresh plums, crispy haystack parsnips and fall spice radicchio.

 

This was paired with Bell Wine Cellars Napa Valley Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2018.

 

This is sourced from the Neal Vineyard in the Howell Mountain AVA of northeast Napa Valley sited on a ridge almost overlooking the Napa Valley floor. The vineyard is owned and farmed by Mark Neal, son of Jack Neal, one of the original farmers of modern Napa Valley winegrowing.  

 

The volcanic soils of the Vaca Mountain range including Howell Mountain at the north end of the range, stress the grapevines, being thin and well-drained, but it is this specific combination of qualities that lend this mountain Cabernet its structure.  A slightly western-facing aspect allows the warm afternoon sun to push the fruit to an ideally ripe state in time for harvest. The result is a classic expression of the Howell Mountain terroir with full firm structured, concentrated dark saturated fruit with classic spice for an approachable Cabernet Sauvignon.  

 

This wine is 99% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 1% Merlot added for softness and complexity, and was aged in 27% new French oak and mostly once-used oak barrels for 20 months with minimal racking. The wine received about ten months of bottle aging prior to release.

 

Winemaker's Tasting Notes - "Our inaugural appellation blend from Howell Mountain is a dark garnet color in your glass. It beckons with a multi-layered nose of blackberry cobbler, sweet tobacco, new leather and sage. The flavors echo the aromas with dark plum, dry persimmon, hints of cinnamon and a fine worn-in wood expression. The texture is broad and lush, with a creamy mouthfeel that integrates dusty tannins and a bright acidity. We are proud to share our first appellation blend from one of the premier locations for Cabernet Sauvignon in the Napa Valley." 

Only 440 cases were produced. 

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3965389

 

The Third Course was Waygu Flatiron Steak with petite Yukon crisps, garlic aioli and fried rosemary in a beef jus reduction. This course was the highlight of the evening for me. 

 

 
This course was paired with Bell Wine Cellars Atlas Peak Napa Vally Cabernet Sauvignon 2018.

 

This label is sourced from the Elan Vineyard located on the Eastern slopes of Atlas Peak at south end of the Vaca Mountain range that forms the east boundary wall of Napa Valley. It sits at an elevation of 2100 ft above sea level in the upper reaches of the range.

The vineyard is part of the Elan Estate owned by winemaker Patrick Elliot Smith who developed of the site building on his more than 40 years of experience in vineyard development and management. Patrick and his wife Linda purchased the property in 1979 and Patrick started clearing the very rocky land himself, while living in a tepee, and he continues to do most of the manual work himself. 

We visited Patrick and Linda Elliott Smith and tasted and acquired their Elan Winery and Vineyard wines during our Napa Wine Experience back in 1998, when they were crushing their grape and producing their wines at Monticello Winery in Southern Napa Valley. We still hold a half dozen vintages in a vertical collection of Elan Wine which we've featured in these pages - Napa Valley Atlas Peak Cabernet duo.

This was my WOTN - Wine of The Night - the most expressive, finely balanced and integrated for the most elegant and polished representation of the Bell Cabernets.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4304422 

The Fourth and final course was Chocolate French Silk Pie - dark chocolate mousse, white chocolate mousse, dark cocoa nibs and brown butter crust. 

This course was paired with the Bell Wine Cellars Napa Valley Oak Knoll AVA Cabernet Franc 2019.

This wine is sourced from the Chang Vineyard which is situated along the Silverado Trail on the southeast side of the Napa Valley, noted for a great stone wall along the back property line. 

The sub-appellation Oak Knoll AVA is distinguished by a cooler microclimate, second only to the Carneros AVA. The vineyard was planted on rocky but porous loam-chalky soils rich with volcanic rock. Although the temperature is cooler than upper valley, the east side aspect provides sufficient sun exposure for this early ripening variety. The winemaker notes that wines produced from this vineyard are characterized by raspberry and violet flavors as well as dark fruit and great tannin structure thanks to proper maturity and vigor restrain of the soil.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4821368

This was the WOTN - favorite wine of wife Linda and several others in our group.

We enjoyed the Bell wines such that we and our guests acquired each of the Cabernets featured this evening for our cellar collections. 

The opportunity to compare each of the appellation wines in one sitting was very special, indeed, especially when optimally paired with extraordinary food.

https://www.bellwine.com/

https://thejamesgeneva.com/

https://twitter.com/unwindwine

@unwindwine 

https://twitter.com/PassionatePour1

@PassionatePour1

Far Niente Chardonnay highlights seafood dinner at Hugo's Frogbar Naperville

Far Niente Chardonnay highlights seafood dinner at Hugo's Frogbar Naperville - Pan Seared Walleye rivals favorite memorable fresh seafood dishes - a retrospective ...

We joined son Ryan and his family for his birthday celebration dinner. at Hugo's Frogbar in Naperville (IL). 

Hugo’s Frog Bar & Fish House (Chicago) opened its doors in February 1997 in the heart of Chicago’s Gold Coast neighborhood, next to sister restaurant Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse. Since its founding in 1989 the iconic Gibson's Bar & Steakhouse on Rush Street has been the flagship of what has become the Gibson's Restaurant Group. 

Over the years the Gibson's Restaurant Group portfolio has grown - today they own and operate several distinguished concept restaurants throughout Chicagoland and beyond: Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse, Hugo’s Frog Bar & Fish House (three locations including downtown and Naperville), LUXBAR, Quartino Ristorante & Wine Bar, Gibsons Italia, The BOATHOUSE Orlando, Hugo’s Frog Bar & Chop House (on behalf of Rivers Casino), Bazaar Meat Chicago, Bar Mar, Café By The River and Chi Sox Bar & Grill (on behalf of the Chicago White Sox).

For over 20 years, owners Hugo Ralli and Steve Lombardo have strived to become the city’s finest seafood restaurant, Hugo’s, as a destination for premier east and west coast oysters, crudos, frog legs, lobster and seasonal fish and shellfish.

Hugo’s seafood is delivered daily, earning The New York Times to praise “the fish could only be fresher if it swam in by itself.” 

Despite being in the middle of the country, it's not only possible, but customary, to get the daily fresh catch seafood here in numerous seafood restaurants. Notably, besides Hugo's, Chinn's in the northwest suburbs, one of the top 25 grossing restaurants in the US, posts the Bills of Lading airbills in the entrance showing all the fresh seafood flown in overnight from a half dozen or more coasts - Alaska, Hawaii, Florida, New England, Atlantic Coast, California, Seattle and so on. His nephew's seafood restaurant Chinn's Fishery Seafood, here in our hometown Lisle, IL did the same thing before closing at the height of the Covid shut-down.  As such, rather than getting the locale fresh catch from any one market, you have a broad selection from the fresh catch from a half dozen or more markets for a broad selection and variety. 

Over the years, I wrote about Chinn's and the daily specials sourced from around the world in numerous blogposts, that last one being Sunday, March 10, 2019 when I wrote, Nickle & Nickle Chardonnay for Chinns Seafood Dinner.

I was hesitant to feature and highlight the seafood at Hugo's, having had a bad experience there with the Hudson Valley scallops last year, but, tonight they redeemed themselves with a surefire winner with four out of four delectable seafood selections.  

Tonight, we had a broad selection of four fresh seafood selections for our entree choices - Walleye, Salmon, Crab and Sea Bass. Mine was a very pleasant surprise, exceeding my lofty expectations. 

I ordered the Pan Seared Walleye with Grilled Asparagus, Lemon Butter & Toasted Almonds.

I chose this dish, hoping it might be in the meunière style that is my favorite preparation. Many of my posts in these pages commemorate memorable dinners with delectable seafood and wine pairings. Forgive me as I obsess here, reliving several dinners featuring this preparation offering.

Notice the recurring theme of pairing these dishes with a full bodied round Napa Valley Chardonnay, an optimal wine and food pairing for enhancement of both.

My absolute favorite seafood selection was always Petrale Sole, or when available, the seasonally limited Sand Dabs, aka Rex Sole, with white wine, lemon butter meunière sauce. This is primarily only found in the San Francisco Bay and Monterey Bay central coast of California. 

For several years, I commuted regularly to Silicon Valley, during which time this was my go-to regular meal every trip - the best being from Scott's Seafood, adjacent our offices in Palo Alto. Second, was Scoma's in San Francisco on the wharf and across the bay in Sausalito.

Tonight's preparation reminded me of fond memories of that Petrale Sole served in with white wine, lemon butter meunière sauce, a delight and high praise, indeed.

My next favorite fresh seafood selection would be Dover Sole, prepared in a similar way. I have many great memories, and postings in these pages from Il Postino Ristorante Italiano in New York City and their Dover Sole preparation: June 19, 2018 - Cakebread Cellars Napa Chardonnay with Dover Sole at Il Postino NYC, and again ....  June 27, 2018 - Cakebread Cellars Napa Chardonnay with Dover Sole at Il Postino NYC, and again ... April 15, 2018 - Cakebread Cellars Napa Chardonnay at Il Postino NYC - a trifecta! 

And, Dover Sole here locally in Chicago - January 22, 2020 - Post UGCB Dinner with Dover Sole Rosebud Chicago; and again November 9, 2022 - California 2013 Duo BYOB with Dover Sole at Vistro Hinsdale.

Finally, I would say my near favorite seafood dish is Flounder, and once again one of my favorite and memorable eateries for such is in New York - October 24, 2019 - Eataly NYC Flounder Seafood Dinner, and October 23, 2016 -Eataly New York Wine Dine Options.

 

And, another favorite local east coast eatery where we were somewhat regulars over the years -January 28, 2020 - Pouilly-Fuisse, Chiles Valley Cabernet with Sautéed Flounder Francaise at Idylwild Grill in Falls Church, VA.

So it was, tonight's Pan Seared Walleye was reminiscent of those earlier memorable dinners.

As a starter we shared the Beet Salad - Golden & Red Beets, Spring Mix, Shaved Fennel, Orange Segments, Goat Cheese, Candied Hazlenuts with Citrus Vinaigrette.

Our other entree selections - 

Jumbo Lump Crab Cake - a small portion as she ordered the appetizer rather than the larger portion entree.

Pan Roasted Miso Marinated Chilean Sea Bass - Wild mushrooms, sweet peas, & soy reduction

Grilled Faroe Island Salmon - Roasted Sweet Potato Hash, Spinach, & Bacon Jam

For our wine pairing we had a premium Napa Valley Chardonnay, from the same producer that we had just the other evening. 

Far Niente Napa Valley Coombsville Estate Chardonnay 2020

Just the other evening we had at home from our cellar, the Nickel & Nickel Napa Valley Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay, from their single vineyard designated portfolio of labels. Tonight's selection is the flagship, estate bottled appellation bottling from the 'parent' winery producer Far Niente.

Far Niente is one of Napa Valley’s most historic wineries, founded in 1885 by John Benson. It closed during the Prohibition era in 1919. Sixty years later, the property was bought and restored by Gil Nickle who released the first vintage of Far Niente wine in the modern era in 1979 - this estate-bottled Napa Valley Chardonnay. It has been a namesake to the winery for over four decades ever since.

The grapes are grown in the Coombsville AVA, known for its more temperate climate and volcanic ash soils that give Far Niente’s Chardonnay its signature stone and tropical fruit flavors with a crushed rock minerality. The wine does not go through malolactic fermentation in the production process, which preserves the crisper malic acid, providing extra freshness on the palate and extending the wine’s longevity for years of drinking pleasure.

Far Niente Chardonnay is a blend of several superior Napa Valley estate (producer owned) vineyards located in Coombsville, down at the bottom of the valley, a cooler growing region nestled in the rolling countryside and protected by the hills east of the city of Napa. 

Coombsville offers the characteristic climate of Carneros, with less wind, along with deeper, well-drained gravelly loam and volcanic ash soils. The combination of these spectacular vineyards results in the subtle, tropical flavors, complex aromas and uncommon richness that have long been associated with Far Niente Chardonnay.

This is a marriage of fruit from the cooler, bay-influenced vineyards in southern Napa Valley, crafted to combine fragrant citrus blossom aromatics, rich fruit flavors and a silky finish to every occasion.

Winemaker notes - "Richly aromatic with notes of white fig, and citrus blossom, this captivating Chardonnay slowly builds on the palate, progressing from silky notes of honeydew, nectarine and lemon zest to a full finish supported by elegant, toasted oak. Crisp minerality and juicy acidity lift and support the generous fruit and provide the framework for graceful aging. This wine will continue to gain richness and complexity in the bottle and glass."

Pale straw colored, medium bodied, complex expressive rich sprites of minerality, acidity and hazelnut overshadow the subdued honeydew fruit notes. 

RM 90 points. 

This release was awarded 91 Points by Wine Advocate.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4070961

https://farniente.com/

https://twitter.com/farnientewinery

https://www.hugosfrogbar.com/

https://twitter.com/HugosFrog

https://twitter.com/unwindwine

BV Tapestry with Beef bourguignon

Beaulieu Vineyards (BV) Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve Bordeaux Blend, fabulous pairing with Beef bourguignon

Friday night dinner, Linda prepared a beef bourguignon with - sirloin steak with carrots, onions, rosemary and hot-house tomatoes, with sherry port wine, over linguini noodles. It was delicious, enhanced mightily by an aged vintage Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend. 

Beef bourguignon or bœuf bourguignon, also called beef Burgundy, and bœuf à la Bourguignonne, is a French beef stew braised in red wine, often red Burgundy, and beef stock, typically flavored with carrots, onions, garlic, and a bouquet garni, and garnished with pearl onions, mushrooms, and bacon. 

I love selecting a Blend over a single varietal wine as it adds breadth and complexity to complement the beef and savory vegetable and spice flavors. Indeed, the French have been perfecting their blending to produce complex elegant sophisticated wines to pair with and complement foods for over five hundred years!

Beaulieu Vineyards Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve Bordeaux Blend 2002

We hold a vertical collection of nearly two dozen vintages of this label dating back two and a half decades. It represents good value - QPR (Quality Price Ratio) in a Napa Valley sourced Bordeaux varietal blend. This is especially true when comparing this label to their Georges de Latour Reserve Cabernet which sells for twice the price, often with similar ratings and rankings. 

Beaulieu Vineyards (BV) ("Quelle beau lieu!" or "What a beautiful place.”) is one of the oldest, most storied estates and producers in Napa Valley, Its founding dates back to 1900 when Georges de Latour and his wife Fernande initially purchased a four-acre ranch with the vision of making Napa Valley wines that would rival those of their native France.

They expanded their land holdings over the next several decades, many of which are still part of the BV portfolio today. In 1903 they purchased 127 acres in Rutherford, which they named "BV Ranch No. 1." In 1910 another land purchase was made, known as "BV Ranch No. 2."

In 1923, Georges de Latour purchased the Fred Ewer Winery, a building that dates back to 1885. Its four original stone walls remain the core of today’s Beaulieu Vineyard winery in Rutherford sited along St Helena Highway 29, mainstreet of Napa Valley. This purchase increased Beaulieu’s production dramatically allowing Beaulieu Vineyard’s business to thrive and increase fourfold in the 1920s,

Since its first release in 1990, BV have produced Tapestry Reserve as a tribute to their French heritage and homage to the classic Bordeaux blends and Clarets. It is sourced from a selection of specific vineyard blocks of top-quality grapes that give Tapestry the combined attributes of terroir expression and a round, approachable tannin structure. Roughly half of the Cabernet Sauvignon was grown on the famous western benchland of the Rutherford American Viticultural Area (AVA) and the balance from the Calistoga, Oakville, and St Helena AVAs. The Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec are sourced exclusively from BV estate vineyards in Rutherford. Two styles of Cabernet Franc lend complexity and intrigue: one from cooler Sonoma Valley providing fresh acidity and a slight herbal character; the other from warmer Calistoga adding ripe and expressive red fruit notes. 

In 2010, legendary winemaker Michel Rolland joined Beaulieu Vineyard as a blending consultant on their reserve wines. 

I pulled a twenty-one year old 2002 vintage release from the cellar, 'Goldilocks' age, not too old, but not too young. It proved to be an ideal pairing with the hearty beef bourgogne dish, accentuating the enjoyment of both! 

My wine tasting notes index shows fourteen vintages of tasting notes of this label. It shows we tasted and I reported on this wine back in February 2006 when I wrote:

"Feb 2006 - Beaulieu Vineyards Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve 2002 - RM 92 WE 90 - Dark medium bodied, smooth easy drinking, Bordeaux blend showing loads of plum, cherry and currant fruit as well as vanilla spice notes from oak aging. Tasted at Indigo Restaurant in SPG." 

At twenty-one years, the fill level, label (slightly stained and soiled), foil, and most importantly the cork were all still in ideal condition. 

While still very much in its drinking window, this was showing some diminution from age with the vibrant fruits just starting to give way to non-fruit flavors of earth and wood. Still, it was consistent with that earlier tasting. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, full round plum, black cherry and black currant fruits with notes of cassis, cedar, spice and toasted oak with a hint of dark mocha chocolate, on a moderate firm tannins finish. 

RM 90 points. 

This release was awarded 92 points by Wine & Spirits, 90 points by Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=198670

https://www.bvwines.com/

Nickel & Nickel Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

First look at Nickel & Nickel Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

We opened this full throttle Napa Chardonnay with home baked chicken breasts stuffed with feta cheese and spinach with roasted potatoes and corn for an ideal food and wine pairing.

This is from Nickel & Nickel, a subsidiary of the legendary ultra-premium producer Far Niente Winery and Vineyards. If you've visited Napa Valley, you passed their winery estate on St Helena Highway 29 in Oakville as you enter Napa Valley from the south. 

Nickel & Nickel was established by the partners of Far Niente in 1997 focused on producing single-vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from the appellation's most significant growing regions. Dedicated exclusively to producing 100 percent varietal, single-vineyard wines that best express the distinct personality of each vineyard, they expanded their portfolio to also produce single-vineyard Chardonnay, Merlot, and Syrah wines.

Nickel & Nickel focus on 100% varietal, single-vineyard designated wines, sourced from as many as seventeen different vineyards, primarily in Napa Valley, but now extended to include some sites in the Sonoma County Russian River Valley appellation. 

Their approach emphasizes selection of the very best vineyard locations and unique soil compositions required to make superior single-vineyard wines. Each Nickel & Nickel wine is a celebration of 'place' or terroir. It's amazing how such can reveal how vineyards only miles apart, but of the same grape varietal, yield wines of unique character and distinction.

This label release is 100% Chardonnay from the Truchard Vineyard located in the heart of Carneros AVA, prized for its rolling hills, sun exposure, and cool, breezy conditions that allow long, even ripening. Nickel & Nickel wines are produced from 14 select acres of this 270-acre vineyard, planted in 2007, composed of volcanic ash and rock with a southwestern exposure. The growing season tends to be long in this cooler area, allowing for fully mature fruit at harvest.

The Carneros region straddles the southernmost portions at the confluence of the Sonoma and Napa valleys, lying just north of the San Pablo Bay (an offshoot of the San Francisco Bay). There, the bay winds and fog, created when warm inland air meets cool sea air, keep temperatures relatively low, making this California wine region perfect for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 

Indeed many of our favorite and many memorable wines are from Carneros vineyards from some of the most heralded producers. 

Nickel & Nickel Napa Valley Carneros Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

Winemaker Notes -  "Nickel & Nickel Truchard Chardonnay 2022 is a wine that stands out for its full-bodied and flavorful taste, thanks to its carefully selected grapes from the famous Truchard Vineyard in Napa Valley, California. Upon opening the bottle, the wine releases an enticing aroma of citrus blossom and melon, which will leave your senses longing for more. This is followed by a silky and creamy texture on the palate, which is perfectly balanced by the wine's vibrant acidity.'

"The flavors of pear, melon, and green apple dominate the palate, and the wine is complemented by subtle hints of toasted oak that add a unique touch to the wine. The wine finishes with a long and mouthwatering taste, which leaves a lasting impression. Whether you are an experienced wine enthusiast or just starting your journey, Nickel & Nickel Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 is a wine that can be appreciated by anyone who values quality and craftsmanship.'

"This golden-hued vintage strikes the most beautiful balance between freshness and tropical lushness. Aromas of lemon peel and melon captivate the nose, while silky pear, peach blossom, and melon flavors cascade across a palate that is at once creamy and lifted. The finish is lively and bright, with juicy acidity, whispers of lightly toasted oak, and a refreshing minerality."

Our first tasting of this just released 2022 vintage Chardonnay that we just acquired from our local merchant. We enjoyed it so much I went back and picked up a six pack of this wine to hold in our cellar for more quality enjoyable drinking. 

This vintage release has not yet been rated but the previous two vintage years it was rated 93 points and 95 points in 2019.

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, full round concentrated pear and apple notes with expressive sprites of mineral and roasted nut with hints of toasted oak on a full lingering bright acidic finish. 

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4763512

https://nickelandnickel.farniente.com/

https://twitter.com/NickelandNickel

Clark Claudon Napa Cabernet 2004

Clark Claudon Napa Cabernet 2004

For a quiet evening at home, watching a pre-recorded showing of 'The Voice' from earlier in the week, we opened an old favorite wine from our extensive collection from this favorite producer, with a selection of cheeses and sourdough bread. 

Here following is a updated re-post of earlier posting about this wine and this producer.

Clark-Claudon Estate Grown Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

The producer, Clark-Claudon estate is situated on the ‘backside’ of Howell Mountain in an area known as Pope Valley. We have fun with this label as fellow Pour Boy Bill and Beth C's maiden name is Pope. Clark-Claudon's 17 acres of vineyards are carved out of a 117 acre property located on the north east side of Howell Mountain between Ink Grade and Howell Mountain Road, from 800 ft to 1,200 ft elevation. It’s shallow, mountain soils, cool evening breezes and excellent sun exposure are ideal for a low yield of small, intense Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot grapes. The 17 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon are planted with clone 7 which grows well in hillside rocky soil and produces small berries with concentrated flavors. A small vineyard block is planted to Petite Verdot. After completing their initial vineyard planting, Clark decided to leave the  remaining 100 acres of forests, creeks, meadows and ponds in their natural state which serves as a preserve for native birds and wildlife.

Interesting, following my discussions in recent blogpost about the terroir and appellation specificity line of demarcation being at the 1200 foot elevation level to differentiate between Howell Mountain and Napa Valley designation, we have another such-situated Napa/Howell Mountain Cabernet. Similar to the Viader Napa Valley Cabernet Red Blend from earlier tastings, and the Blue Hall Vineyard Camiana Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon that we drank the other night, this Clark Claudon Napa Cab vineyard is at 1000 foot elevation on the lower reaches of Howell Mountain. That terroir distinction doesn't apply here as the Clark Claudon property is on the backside of Howell Mountain which never sees the fog that is experienced on the Napa Valley side of the hill.

We have been collecting this label since its introduction back in 1993 and hold two decades of vintages since. We first met Tom Clark and Laurie Claudon-Clark during our Napa Wine Experience 1999 when we hosted them at one of our wine producer dinners. That night, held at what was then Pinot Blanc Restaurant in St Helena (see picture left), we tasted Clark Claudon 1995-96 against ten year old 1989 Bordeaux. 

During our Napa Wine Experience visits of 1997 through 2000 we hosted gala tasting dinners with the "'Undisccovered Dozen', emerging new wine producers to watch", featured in an article in Wine Spectator Magazine. Many of these producers released their inaugural vintage releases in or about the 1994 vintage. Those producers and winery visits included Plumpjack, David Arthur, Clark-Claudon, Robert Craig, Del Dotto, Elan, Paradigm, Pride Vineyards, Snowden, Nils Venge and White Cottage and are featured variously on my winesite http://www.unwindwine.com. An complete index of my tasting notes of these wines over the years is on the site at this link to California Producers Index. These producers make up a foundation of our wine cellar collection even today. In many of these wines, we still have vertical selections, several dating back to those early release vintages.  

We love the distinctive unique Clark-Claudon packaging with the tall slender bottles. An interesting and trivial wine-geek's observation about the Clark-Claudon branding and packaging; as mentioned, we hold close to a score of vintages of this label. 

All our vintage holdings but this one, the 2004 release, are packaged with the wax cap inside the rim of the bottle, topping the cork, as shown left. This one, 2004, has a 'traditional' foil top of the bottle (shown below). Not sure why?

This release was awarded 93 points from Wine Enthusiast who wrote, " ... it really needs time. Give it until after 2008, if you can keep your hands off, and will come into its own after 2010."

A decade later, going on seventeen years, this release is holding its own very nicely and showing no signs of diminution whatsoever. The fill level, label and most importantly the cork were in perfect condition.

Wine Enthusiast wrote, "The 2004 Clark-Claudon Napa Cabernet Sauvignon blends fruit from all over the winery's estate, combining multiple expressions of the fruit. The higher portions of the estate yielded fruit that was rich, deeply colored with intense tannins. The lower portions of the estate produced softer, more perfumed wine."

Tonight's tasting was consistent with previous tastings in 2015, 2016 and most recently in the Spring of 2021. In 2016 I wrote it was more expressive than earlier tastings. I sense this is at its peak, not likely to improve further, but grand and capable of aging several more years none-the-less.

At nineteen years, the fill level, label, foil and most importantly the cork were all still in pristine condition. 

Like before, the room filled with dark berry fruit aromatics as soon the cork was pulled. This was dark garnet colored, rich, full, concentrated, but nicely integrated and elegant black berry and black currant fruits with accents of cassis, mocha, floral and notes of spicy oak and hints of black cherry on a lingering fine-grained silky tannin finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=229261

In seeking to replenish this bottle with a more recent vintage of this wine, I looked in distribution and found none in Chicagoland, but got this response when searching national beverage superstore Total Wine - "We could not find this item at Pensacola, FL (our select store), But we found it at Denver, CO." We'll be reaching back to the producer directly, as well as looking in the secondary market.

https://www.clarkclaudon.com

@ClarkClaudon 

Earlier tasting posts ...  

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/01/clark-claudon-howell-mountain-napa.html

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/12/festive-holiday-dinner-showcases.html

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/05/clark-claudon-napa-valley-cabernet.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2021/03/clark-claudon-napa-cabernet-2004.html

Pahlmeyer Jayson Napa Chardonnay with Grilled Salmon

Pahlmeyer Jayson Napa Chardonnay with Grilled Salmon

In pursuit of balanced and healthy eating, we grilled out salmon with roasted potatoes and asparagus. I pulled from the cellar this vintage Napa Chardonnay for a enjoyable pairing,

I always keep this label on hand in memory of dear friends' departed son with that same name that we hold and serve to honor and toast him when common acquaintances and we are together. 

We have several bottles in this collection so I pulled this, the oldest vintage to consume as part of cellar management, also, it was his birthday recently so this was with him/that in mind as well.  

Jayson Pahlmeyer was a successful trial attorney who started becoming hooked by the wine industry and slowly phased out his law practice in pursuit of developing his own wines. He partnered with John Caldwell, owner of a 55-acre site in south-east Napa Valley. Together, they began planting French clones of red Bordeaux varieties.

“All I wanted to do was to create my own ‘California Mouton’ – a rich, powerful Napa Valley Bordeaux blend, a wine that would drop wine lovers to their knees,” says Jayson Pahlmeyer.

He made several trips to France to find some of the highest quality Bordeaux varietal clones, seeking assistance over several years from viti-cultural professors at the University of Bordeaux who analyzed the soil samples, exposure, rainfall and temperature data from Napa. 

Jayson and his partner were able to acquire Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec vines and managed to smuggle their “suitcase clones” through Canada and then took them back to California where he planted his own vineyard.

“My closest advisors, Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer told me ‘If you want to be a first-growth, you have to have your own vineyards,’” says Jayson Pahlmeyer. “I found this property in the eastern hills of Napa Valley that was owned by the Waters family - an incredible parcel with views to the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco skyline. John did the soil analysis, David Abreu studied the terrain, and speaking for all of them, Helen proclaimed it ‘paradisal’. It was rocky, desolate, low vigor, with good drainage. Perfect for growing Bordeaux varieties.

“I hired David Abreu to develop it, and Helen and Erin Green, Helen’s protégé and our longtime winemaker, selected the clones, which included those smuggled from Bordeaux that I had been using since my 1986 vintage.”

Planted in 1981, the French cuttings slowly adjusted. Pahlmeyer Wine released their first vintage in 1986 with the help of Randy Dunn, one of California’s foremost winemakers, the Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red was made and launched.

Helen Turley took over winemaking in 1993 and further improved the quality and consistency of Pahlmeyer wines. They started producing wine at the Napa Wine Co in 1994 soon after Napa Wine Co underwent a huge renovation to accommodate production from wineries who do not actually have their own physical winery at the time.

Jayson’s daughter Cleo joined the team in 2008.

Today, the winemaker is Bibiana Gonzalez Rave. She received her oenology degree from the University of Bordeaux and has worked at estates in Bordeaux, the Rhone Valley, Santa Barbara County, Sonoma Valley and other locations in addition to Napa Valley. She was named Winemaker of the Year for 2015 by the San Francisco Chronicle.

Jason Pahlmeyer understood that making wines with exceptional concentration, complexity, and ageability required venturing to extremes. That’s what drew him to the rugged parcel of vines on the ridgeline of Atlas Peak that would become his iconic estate vineyard. 

 

The Pahlmeyer estate vineyards include Water’s Ranch, Stagecoach, and Antica parcels, that all sit above 1,400 feet elevation where they benefit from three more hours of sunshine per day compared to lower altitudes that are often cloaked in morning fog. This additional sunlight ensures the berries achieve a deep, rich color and complex flavor compounds. 

 

Location, map and technical information for Pahlmeyer Estate Vineyard.

 

Over the years, the portfolio grew to also include the "Jayson" brand that includes several reds, and a Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc wines that sourced from lower elevation vineyard sites including some on the valley floor and in the Carneros region at the lower end of Napa Valley near San Pablo Bay.

With daytime temperatures averaging 5-10 F cooler, our mountain vines respire less acidity to produce energy; the acidity retained in the grapes results in greater freshness and balance in the wines. Cooler temperatures also prolong the growing season, allowing the clusters to hang longer on the vine and achieve optimal flavor development. The Pahlmeyer Rancho Chimiles parcel, while slightly lower in elevation, sits close to the San Pablo Bay and enjoys cooling afternoon breezes that moderate temperature.

We love Pahlmeyer wines and have served special large format bottles of our son's birthyear vintage bottles at his wedding celebration and birthday dinners as posted in these pages -  

Pahlmeyer Caldwell Vineyard Napa Valley Red Blend 1990, and,

Wedding Wines - Birthyear and Big Bottle Extravaganza Continues.

Pahlmeyer "Jayson" Napa Valley Chardonnay 2015 

Tonight this big bold rich Jayson Chardonnay was ideal with our grilled salmon dinner. 

 

Ironically, this week's Pahlmeyer Twitter ('X') site features their Chardonnay harvest.

 

This wine is a marriage of three distinctive Napa Valley regions: bright, elegant Carneros hillside; and rich, ripe St. Helena valley floor; with intense mountain fruit at its core. 

 

Winemaker notes - Across our sites, we employ tunneling (pulling internal leaves) in our canopy management to increase airflow without risking berry integrity. The finished wine has a fresh and bright palate with beautiful aromatics and just enough intensity and richness to impart an unmistakable gravitas. Aging in heavily toasted François Frères barrels allow pure fruit aromatics to be front and center with a subtle butterscotch and salted caramel underscore."  

"The grapes were hand-sorted and gently whole-cluster pressed. After settling overnight, the juice was racked to barrels for 100% native yeast barrel fermentation followed by malo-lactic fermentation. The wine was aged in 85% new French oak barrels for eleven months on the lees, which were stirred weekly.'

This 100% Napa Chardonnay has a striking golden color and is rich and weighty, but very complex and savory at the same time. It's a powerful wine that doesn't need to assert its dominance. The flavors are more spiced than fruity, and you might catch hints of smoked vanilla and flint."

This release was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator who set a drinking window through 2022. Cellartracker's put the drinking window through 2021.

 

At eight years of age, the fill level, label, foil and most importantly the cork were all ideal. This was likely at the end of its prime drinking window, not likely to improve, but rather likely to start to diminish going forward, so it was time to drink. 

 

As shown above, this was deep golden colored, medium full bodied, rich full bold apple and tropical and stone fruit flavors with hints of pineapple with a rich layer of vanilla and caramel/butterscotch with accents of oak, grapefruit and minerality on a roasted nut finish acidic finish. 

 

Fellow Cellartracker Baron Slick summed up this wine well in his post, "With an antique golden appearance and a good amount of tartaric crystals in the glass, this comes across much older than its vintage. Autolytic whiffs of butterscotch, spiced pears, caramel, and soft toast show bottle age maturity. It's long and neatly balanced, with lots textural personalty to sweet baking spice and orchard fruit flavors."

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2674142

https://www.pahlmeyer.com/

https://twitter.com/Pahlmeyer

Beaulieu Vineyards BV Tapestry Reserve Napa Valley Red Wine

Beaulieu Vineyards BV Tapestry Reserve Napa Valley Red Wine

We hold nearly two decades of this label dating back to the mid-1990's.  The basic Bordeaux Blend of the extensive BV portfolio, it represents pretty good QPR for a sophisticated Napa Valley based Bordeaux Blend. 

Our Cellartracker records indicate we acquired several bottles of this label upon its release and distribution back in 2014.  That said, never-the-less, our previous tasting of this wine was at the Trattoria Fiamma Restaurant at the MGM Grand Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas back in 2016. 

For that client dinner in Las Vegas at Trattoria Fiamma which specializes in sophisticated traditional Italian cuisine,  our diners selected beef and other wine friendly dishes so I selected from the winelist I selected an obligatory Italian, a Massolino Barolo, and then this well known popular Napa red from the award winning winelist.

The Las Vegas dining experience offers sensational  surroundings of architecture and design of the mega casino resort hotel, the dining rooms and their eye-popping showcase wine cellars.  

Our business focused non-wine enthusiast crowd called for a modicum of reasonableness in moderate wine selections. Hence, I chose some carefully selected, moderate priced well known predictably pleasant, easy drinking reds that would appeal to the group. The extensive wine-lists offer choices in all price ranges and styles and highlighted this as a key American selection at a reasonable price-point for sophisticated dining.

Tonight, Linda and Sister Pat opened this with Greek Salad dinner. We men went to the last day of the season MLB (baseball) game, and joined them later and enjoyed the remains of this wine with the salad and leftover grilled beefsteak from the previous evening. 

I had pulled this wine from the cellar and set it aside for this evening since it was old enough to be mature and at its prime, yet young enough to be fruit filled and enjoyable and easy pleasurable drinking for the ladies. It proved to be just that - and a perfect pairing with the remaining grilled beefsteak!

Beaulieu Vineyards BV Tapestry Reserve Napa Valley Red Wine 2011

This label was introduced with the 1990 vintage was developed as a tribute to BV's French heritage and the classic Bordeaux blends that are world-renowned. The label is sourced from a selection of specific vineyard blocks of top-quality grapes that give Tapestry the combined attributes of terroir expression and a round, approachable tannin structure. 

This release was a blend of Bordeaux varietals - 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot, 5% Malbec, and 3% Petit Verdot.

Winemaker Vineyard notes: "We chose specific blocks of top-quality grapes that give Tapestry the combined attributes of terroir expression and a round, approachable tannin structure. Roughly half of the Cabernet Sauvignon was grown on the famous western benchland of the Rutherford American Viticultural Area (AVA) and the balance from the Calistoga, Oakville, and Coombsville AVAs. The Merlot comes from our vineyards in the warmer parts of Carneros and the Rutherford Bench, while the Petit Verdot and Malbec are sourced exclusively from our estate vineyards in Rutherford. The Cabernet Franc is grown on Howell Mountain where berries are small, concentrated and extremely expressive."

"The low-yields of an exceptional cool vintage gave our 2011 Reserve Tapestry its refined elegance, while five Bordeaux-heritage varietals contributed layer-upon-layer of flavor complexity. This is a wine that shows the artistry of the winemaker. Winemaker Jeffrey chose Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc for the wine's core of briary blackberry and cassis expression and its firm tannin structure. He then added Merlot for plush mid-palate texture and a hint of cherry. Petit Verdot and Malbec complete the blend with nuances of ripe plum, rose, forest loam and graphite." 

This wine shows well for a vintage that was challenging for winemakers and was generally panned by the pundits. Interesting that very often the blockbuster vintages don't meet the lofty accolades and expectations, while the 'lesser' vintages often exceed such. I am finding the 2011's to offer very pleasant easy drinking these days, at great value due to their suppressed prices due to the lackluster ratings for the vintage. 

At twelve years, the fill level, foil, label and cork were ideal and this was most likely at the apex but end of its prime drinking window and likely to start to diminish from this point forward.

Tonight's tasting was consistent with that earlier one that I posted in these pages in a tasting report on that Las Vegas dinner and wine and food pairing when I wrote:

"Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, tight, structured black berry core with tones of cassis, graphite and clove spice and a hint of cedar and creosote on a moderate smooth tannin laced finish."

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1843548

https://www.bvwines.com/ 

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2016/03/wine-and-dine-at-trattoria-fiamma-mgm.html