Enjoying wine - perspectives on wine buying, collecting, tasting, a study in wine marketing & branding; observations, experiences and ruminations of a winegeek & frequent traveler. Sharing so others can 'unwindwine' for greater wine discovery, understanding and appreciation.
Team dinner at IV Chicago again, features Bordeaux Blend and Super Tuscan
Another week, another team dinner at Italian Village Chicago. Wine Director Jared Gelband
served a Bordeaux Blend followed by a full bodied big Sangiovese with our dinners. As I wrote in a recent blogpost of our last team dinner there, where we presented to the IV staff with a photo of our group from our recent visit, tonight they had our picture framed and mounted at our regular table in our intimate alcove.
Tenuta di Biserno Il Pino di Biserno Toscana 2016
Il Pino di Biserno is produced at the Tenuta di Biserno estate located in the commune of Bibbona in the Alta
Maremma, bordering the historic village of Bolgheri to the north.
The estate covers nearly 100 acres situated at 90 metres above sea level with maritime influence of the nearby Mediterranean. The soils are very
stoney, comprised of alluvial, with some calcareous clay, rich
in calcium carbonate. The vineyards are planted with Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.
This label release is a special Bordeaux Blend of estate grapes from young vineyards, crafted to represent the unique terroir of the Bibbona area.
It has been produced since 2004 with rigorous selection of young vine grapes, to be accessible for early-drinking. The blend of Il Pino di Biserno consists of: Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and in some vintages Cabernet Sauvignon.
This was a good representation of the outstanding 2016 harvest that was a top rated vintage with great potential on the Tuscan
coast in general and for Tenuta di Biserno and Campo di Sasso in
particular.
The 2016 Il Pino di Biserno release was a blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, and 10% Petit Verdot. It was crafted by Winemaker Helena Lindberg with advise from legendary Consultant Michel Rolland. It was rated94 points by Antonio Galloni of Vinous Media and Wine Advocate and 93 points by James Suckling.
This wine was aged for 12 months in new and second-use French oak barrique and 10% of the volume in stainless steel.
Garnet colored, medium full bodied, nicely integrated complex full round sweet black berry and ripe black plum fruit with accents of spice,
tobacco, leather and hints of tar and licorice with firm but approachable lingering tannins on the long finish.
Tenuta Sette Ponti is one of Tuscany’s most innovative, quality-driven producers of world-class Super Tuscans, owned by luxury goods entrepreneur Antonio Moretti, who
engaged the finest team of enologists, viticulturists, and agronomists
to help ensure the highest quality wines. The estate includes property in the famed Maremma coastal zone, which produces the wine Poggio al Lupo.
Tenuta Sette Ponti lies on historic land in the heart of the Chianti
zone at the end of the Via del Monte, known locally as the Via dei Sette
Ponti, in a beautiful hidden valley. The estate is named for the seven medieval
bridges crossing the Arno River on the road from Arezzo to Florence—one
of which, the Ponte Buriano, can be seen in the right far background
of Leonardo DaVinci's Mona Lisa.
The dedication and savvy of luxury goods entrepreneur Antonio
Moretti has transformed the 750-acre estate into a multifaceted
farm property that is today one of Tuscany’s most innovative,
quality-driven producers of world-class Super Tuscans.
Among Tuscany’s oldest vineyards, Impero Vineyard (meaning “Empire’s
Vineyard”) was planted in 1935 by His Royal Highness the Count of Turin,
Vittorio Emanuele of Savoy. Terraces hammered out of marly limestone on
a steep slope in the middle of the estate make up this famed vineyard.
The soil is a mix of clay and gravel, rich in marl and rock, that gives a
spectacular minerality to the Sangiovese grapes grown here. The
approximately 7 acres of vineyards are situated at an altitude of 919 -
984 feet with excellent sun exposure and beneficial breezes.
Producer Antonio Moretti graduated from Siena University with a
degree in economics and banking, then opened his first
apparel store, a business that expanded to encompass a chain of shops
throughout Italy. He went on to acquire Arfango, known for its fine
leather goods, and Bonora, a brand of handmade shoes. He also shares a
partnership with the brand Car Shoe Patrizio Bertelli, owner of the
Prada Group.
Moretti's took over the
vineyards of Tenuta Sette Ponti from his father, the acquired Poggio al Lupo, the Marem
ma estate, purchased in 1999; and Feudo
Maccari, the Sicilian estate he assembled in 2000.
This label releasewas a new wine for Sette Ponti in recent vintages, the
2012 Vigna dell'Impero is 100% Sangiovese from Valdarno di Sopra, from the estate’s oldest vineyard, a 7.4-acre terraced plot of Sangiovese first planted in 1935. The wine, aged 24 months in large
barrels
It was awarded 95
points byJames Suckling, and 92 points by Wine & Spirits.
Bright ruby colored, full bodied, big, bold tangy raspberry, black currant and cherry fruits with accents of earth, anise, baking spices, leather and tobacco with firm but fine grained tannins on a bright acidic finish.
Team Dinner at Italian Village Chicago features Galatrona Toscana, Caprili Brunello di Montalcino and a Chianti Classico Gran Selezione
My leadership team (engineering, development, operations and strategy) gathered in Chicago again as we continue to build out our strategic plan. Once again, we dined at Italian Village, Chicago, our regular dinesite due to its broad menu, extraordinary wine cellar list, proximity to the office and our hotels, and our long standing friendships with staff there.
Being what is becoming a regular outing, as somewhat regulars there, tonight we had fun presenting to Gina Capitanini, third generation owner of the historic restaurant, a 'team picture' of this part of our group with wine director Jared Gelband and Garardo, one of the floor managers. Look for it/us on the walls of pictures of celebrities, notables, and some of us regulars.
Wine Director Jared Gelband, recently returned from his wine tour to Italy, pulled from the cellar a couple wines for our dinner, a Sangiovese and a extraordinary Tuscan Chianti Classico Merlot Bordeaux varietal, and a blend of the two.
Prior to dinner we met to plan a special event dinner for an upcoming global team gathering and we had a glass of this classic unique premium label.
Vignamaggio Monna Lisa Gran Selezione Chianti Classico DOCG 2016
This producer estate, Vignamaggio, has been in operation
since 1404.
The estate sprawls over more than 400 hectares, with vineyards,
vegetable and ornamental gardens and a historic winery. The state-of-the-art working farm has Chianti Classico
vineyards, olive groves, thriving vegetable gardens and fruit trees,
forests, and also raises animals.
This label is named in tribute to the daughter of the original owners of the estate, who became
eternally famous after Leonardo da Vinci painted her portrait.
It carries the distinctive "Gran Selezione" designation and is only made in the best years. It is produced from select grapes from Vignamaggio top three, most prized vineyards – Prato, Solatio and Querceto. It
is a blend of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged partially in French oak barriques for 18–20 months and
partially in larger barrels. The entire ageing process takes a minimum
of 30 months, of which at least six are in the bottle.
The Gran Selezione designation, established less than a decade ago, was
created to allow Chianti producers to compete with Brunello Riservas and
the best of Montalcino, with longer aging requirements and a high
quality standard, showcasing and representing the best of Chianti.
The 2016 vintage release was one of the best ever with both Vinous and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate scoring it as their favorite vintage ever, such that this is considered the best version of Monna Lisa yet.
Only five pallets of this superlative Gran Selezione made their way
to the US, a tiny amount for a wine with such a reputation
as a can’t-miss for Tuscan lovers and collectors. Its not surprising that Italian Village with their extensive deep and broad cellar offer this on their winelist.
This was awarded 94 points by Vinous.
Dark, bright ruby purple colored, somewhat translucent yet full-bodied, this is complex and concentrated, combining Sangiovese’s savory, red-fruit richness with the velvety softness of Merlot and powerful structure from a bit
of Cabernet Sauvignon, concentrated yet elegant with black and red
cherry fruits, wine, allspice, notes of tobacco and leather turning to gripping but polished tannins on the long long finish.
Amazingly, after dozens of meals at Italian Village Chicago over as many years, tonight's meal was one of the best ever. I write often about the importance of pairing the right wine with food, or vice versa, which can have a multiplicative effect when done perfectly.
Reading the Italian Village menu, I was drawn to the "House Specialty" designation of the Lasagna, with meat sauce, white cream sauce, Parmesan cheese, baked in Mozzarella cheese (shown right). Selecting this for my dinner this was the best Lasagna I have ever tasted, and was perfectly matched with the exceptional Galatrona Toscana.
While opening, decanting and serving the Galatrona, Jared described the wine, the producer, and the profile and character of this aged vintage release. Listening to this, colleague Kevin changed his entree selection to the filet of beef steak with sauteed shrimp (shown left), topped with a sauteed garlic and olive oil sauce served over spinach, which proved to be another extraordinary pairing.
A couple of the fellas had what is becoming another regular favorite, the Pheasant Agnolottini - pillow shaped pheasant-filled pasta in a butter sage sauce, sprinkled with Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Of course, our dinners there are all about the pairing of the food with extraordinary, spectacular wines - taking advantage of the extraordinary Italian Village cellar and winelist selection!
Galatrona Petrolo Toscana 2001
Petrolo produces estate bottled terroir driven wines from vines of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, focusing on careful selection of grapes from low yields and artful winemaking.
Back in 1716 Cosimo III de Medici, the Great Duke of Tuscany,
stated with an edict which areas had the most valuable production
of fine wine and quality olive oil, recognizing 4
areas, Chianti center (between Panzano and Greve), Carmignano (west of Florence), Pomino (east of Florence) and the Val d’Arno di Sopra (the western and eastern hills along the Arno river between Florence and Arezzo, where Petrolo is located) .
A century later, in 1834,
agronomist Giorgio Perrin, owner of Petrolo and member of the Accademia
dei Gergofili of Florence, noted Sangiovese from this area, especially that spot called Campo Asciutto (now Bòggina), was commonly planted and blended with “French grapes” in Chianti to combine with Sangiovese.
The Estate was acquired in the 40’s by the family Bazzocchi that
followed up the tradition of carefully producing high quality wines. Petrolo’s vineyards extend across 75 acres in the DOC Val d’ Arno di Sopra appellation, bordering the south eastern area of Chianti Classico.
The vineyards are found at an altitude between 250 and 450 meters
elevation consisting of loose-packed soil with different mixture
of rocks like marl, sandstone and shale typical of the Chianti area.
The Galatrona vineyard consists of 7 1/2 acres, planted in 1990, the first Merlot vineyard that Petrolo planted. This label, Galatrona has been produced from this vineyard since it’s very first bottling in 1994, composed of 100% Merlot.
The Feriale vineyard, added another 12 acres tothe Galatrona vineyard, when it was planted in the 90’s, almost entirely of Merlot plants, with a few vines planted to Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and
Petit Verdot, intended for the production of Galatrona. The peculiar soil, rich in clay
in combination with schist, marl and sandstones, allows the
concentration of all the noble components of the grapes, fundamental for
the great structure, elegance, balance and persistence wanted for this wine.
Petrolo’s wines are crafted to achieve the greatest quality that also best represent the terroir of the historic Estate. Galatrona wines were ranked among the ten best merlot in the world according to Wine-Searcher.com in November 2018.
Galatrona is the “Gran-Cru” of Merlot
of Petrolo, only made with the finest select grapes from the vineyard of the same
name.
This label was awarded 96 points and a Collectible by Wine Spectator, and 92 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate who said: "The 2001
Galatrona confirms its status as one of Tuscany’s better Merlot
bottlings." Production has grown from 850
cases in the early years to 2500 cases in recent year.
At twenty years, this is likely at the apex of its drinking window, showing no signs of diminution whatsoever, with perfect cork, but not likely to improve any further from aging. Look at the difference in the color of the residue on the corks between the two bottles of our flight - the Sangiovese (ruby) and the Merlot (dark garnet).
Opened and decanted for an hour, dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, a symphony of elegant flavors, soft, silky, polished, dense blackberry and notes of black cherry and plum fruits with tones of mineral, spice, tobacco and leather with smooth polished fine grained tannins on a long seductive finish.
The estate was founded by Alfo Bartolommei in 1965. The
Bartolommei family settled in the Municipality of Montalcino at the
beginning of the last century. The family originated from Podere
Marzolo in the Municipality of Cinigiano (Province of Grosseto).
In
1911, the family moved to Podere Poggi, moving several times from one country home to another on the Villa Santa
Restituta estate until they finally arrived at the Caprili farm home in
1952 which they took over and
continued to work the land by sharecropping.
In 1965, the Bartolommei
family decided to buy the property from the Castelli-Martinozzi family,
owners of Villa Santa Restituta estate. In the same year, 1965, they
planted the first vineyard, still called “Madre” to this day, where the
clones for the new vineyards planted on the estate are selected.
The first bottle of Brunello di Montalcino was the 1978 harvest and was put on the market in 1983.
A great representation of Sangiovese at its best from a spectacular vintage, this 2016 release was awarded 96 points
by Wine Enthusiast, 95 points
by
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Spectato, and 94 points
by James Suckling and Vinous. 45,000 bottles were produced.
Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant tangy slightly tart cherry and ripe plum fruits with floral, dusty rose, cedar and hints of mint and camphor with tones of leather, and smoky creosote on a zesty acidic found tannin laced finish.
Italian Village Chicago Team Dinner features Super Tuscan and Barolo Nebbiolo wines
For a team dinner we dined at our regular go-to venue in the Chicago city centre, a few blocks walking distance from our office and our hotels, Italian Village Chicago, in one of their select private tables.
We chose two wines from the extensive Italian Village winelist from their extraordinary cellar which serves all three restaurants under normal times, two Italian labels to accompany our dinner.
Normally we'd be served by Wine Director and dear friend Jared Gelband but he is touring Italy visiting several producer estates. We were served by Gerardo who in normal times would manage the upscale Vivere restaurant but is helping manage the Italian Village floor during these crazy Covid times.
Tenuta di Arceno Valadorna di Arcanum Toscana IGT 2013
This is a 'Super Tuscan' Blend meaning it is from French Bordeaux varietals grown in the Italian Tuscany region. The producer, Tenuta di Arceno is an old historic Tuscan estate with a diverse portfolio of
the highest quality wines across two classification levels – three
wines centered on the native Sangiovese grape in the Chianti Classico
DOCG collection; and three wines from the estate’s international
(French Bordeaux) varieties under the Toscana IGT designation.
The estate is situated at
the southernmost-edge of the Chianti Classico region in the butterfly-shaped
commune of Castelnuovo Berardenga, near the village of Siena, often referred to as ‘the most Senese Chianti Classico,’adjacent the scenic ancient walled town of San Gusmè.
The sub-region is home
to several world-renowned producers who produce stylistically distinct wines.
The Tenuta di Arceno estate is 1,000 total hectares (2,500 acres) of which 92 hectares
(220 acres) are planted to vineyards – the remaining land preserved for
native vegetation including 50 hectares (125 acres) of olive orchards.
The vineyards are separated into 63 blocks, the vineyards planted to
50% the region's native Sangiovese, and the remaining 50% with international varieties such as Cabernet Franc,
Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
This is a Merlot-based blend sourced primarily from the Valadorna and
Capraia vineyards' blocks, known to produce the estate’s most complex and
mineral-based expressions of this variety. The Merlot blocks, located in
the cooler part of the estate, naturally irrigated by a nearby stream, with sandy brown soils and lower yields
than typical, are often the last Merlot blocks to ripen on
the estate.
The recent 2019 vintage release of this label received the coveted Tre Bicchieri (“Three Glasses”) award. Each yeara a panel of prominent wine experts review wines from each of
Italy’s 20 regions evaluating over 23,000 wines from 2500 producers and awarding scores ranging
from 0 to 3 Glasses (“Bicchieri”) according to the quality of
the wine. Tre Bicchieri wines are generally recognized in Italy and by the international wine community as Italy’s best. A Tre Bicchieri award is a really big deal for a winery. The tastings are done blind so there is no favoritism or influence on the outcomes.
Winemaker's tasting notes: "The 2013 was a classic vintage, yet on the cool side, which favors
the perfect ripening of Merlot. The Valadorna Merlot was picked on
October 1st, allowing ample time on the vine for perfect maturation and
tannin development. The nose jumps from the glass with exotic spices of
jasmine, cumin and vanilla bean. The fruit expression is of raspberry
and black cherry. The mouthfeel is dominated by long flexible tannins
framed by slight tingling acids. The immediate sensation of blueberry
pie gives way to an uplifting bright sour cherry finish. As the fruit
subsides, what remains on the palate are hints of sweet cedar and cigar
box notes. The 2013 is an elegant vintage and will age gracefully."
This is a Bordeaux varietal blend of 74% Merlot, 13 % Cabernet Franc, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Petit Verdot.
This was an ideal compliment to my pasta with a tangy meat sauce.
Dark purple-garnet colored, medium full bodied, complex and intense but well integrated and nicely balanced vibrant blackberry with notes of black cherries and currants, highlights of dark chocolate, espresso, and Tuscan terroir cedar, dried spice, smoke and tobacco with hints of vanilla, and leather, with firm but approaching tannins on the lingering finish.
https://www.tenutadiarceno.com/enFor a second wine, I selected from the IV winelist this Italian Barolo, a native Nebbiolo varietal to accompany our Italian cuisine. Ideally, we would've tasted this stylistic varietal first ahead of the more complex, more concentrated Tuscan blend however it was an appropriate pairing with several of the folk's Italian entree dishes.
Bruna Grimaldi Bricco Ambroglio Barolo 2014
This is from the Bruna Grimaldi family estate in the
hills that between Grinzane Cavour to Serralunga d’Alba, in the heart of
Langhe, part of the Unesco Heritage. The Grimaldi family have been in the wine business since the 1960's when Giacomo Grimaldi started selling grapes, then his son, Giovanni Grimaldi began produce wine and selling it
in bulk.
Giovanni bottles estate
wines in the best vintages with a long library of releases over the following decades.
Since the 1990's the property and brand have been managed by the next generation, Bruna Grimaldi and her
husband Franco Fiorino. They built a new upgraded winery and produce wines only from
their own vineyards. Franco tends to the vineyard management and winemaking, and is the driving force in the
company focusing on Langhe sourced Nebbiolo and Barbera. Bruna manages the family business, an oenologist, she is a member of “Donne del Vino” Association.
Since 2013, the next generation, Simone and Martina, son and
daughter of Bruna and Franco, have joined their parents’ learning from their experience and their studies to promote and continue on with the Bruna Grimaldi brand.
The best Langhe plots are selected for the production of
Barolo, the Bricco
Ambrogio Barolo known for great elegance. The vineyard terroir have a perfect
exposure to the sun with a hot microclimate ideal for Nebbiolo which tend to picked earlier and differentiate themselves in the rainier
and cooler vintages.Their estate Barolo is known to show warm, open perfumes, tending to ripe fruits and spice
notes with structure that lean on
silky and enjoyable tannins.
This is 100% Nebbiolo from the MGA Bricco Ambrogio vineyard in the municipality of Roddi. The terroir boasts southern exposure with very steep slopes, with grey-blue layers of clay in limestone and sand.
This was awarded 92 points by Wine Spectator and 90 points by Wine Enthusiast.
Ruby colored, medium bodied, bright red cherry fruits with spicy notes of clove and accents of earth, leather, oak, hints of smoke with a tangy acid on a moderate tannin finish.
With members of my leadership team gathered in Chicago at headquarters for some important meetings, I hosted a team business dinner at Italian Village Chicago.
IV Wine Director Jared Gelband (right) served up a duo of Italian varietal wines to showcase our dinner selections.
As is our custom, we dined in one of the private tables/rooms in the Village, one of the
three restaurants on the premises, a perfect setting for an intimate or
business dinner. In an earlier blogpost about earlier wine and dinners, I wrote about Italian Village, Chicago's oldest, longest running continuously family operated Italian restaurant in Chicago.
Tonight, several of our group selected the beefsteak entrees so Jared served a couple Bordeaux varietal wines from the extensive Italian Village wine cellar and wine list, as ideal complement pairings with our dinners.
Baron Ricasoli Cassalferro Chianti Classico
Ricasoli
is the most representative wine producer in the Chianti Classico area Italian wine region. The estate covers the 1,200 hectares of property include almost 240 hectares of
vineyards and 26 of olive groves covering rolling hills and picturesque valleys with thick woodlands of oaks and
chestnuts.
The estate and its Brolio
Castle are located within the town limits of Gaiole in Chianti.
Since taking over in 1993, Baron Francesco Ricasoli has been guiding this central
Tuscan company according to the principles of his renowned ancestors, producing wines that showcase the distinctive terroir of the soil types, the climate and clonal selections of the Brolio Sangiovese. He has also totally renovated and completely mapped the
vineyards.
The
history of the estate and the Brolio Castle has been linked to the Ricasoli family and wine back to 1141. In the family
tree is reproduced a print from 1584, one of the first images of the
Chianti area as a wine producing region.
Estate documents report exports to Amsterdam and
England back as early as the late 1600s. Since the early 1900s, the wines from Brolio have gained recognition and appreciation as they have been exported the world over, from China to Saudi Arabia, from South Africa to the Americas.
In
1872 Baron Bettino Ricasoli (1809 – 1880), visionary wine entrepreneur, originated the formula for Chianti wine,
now called Chianti Classico and the family has worked to refine and expand the brand ever since.
Today, Ricasoli produce a portfolio of a dozen labels of premium wines, some only in prime years, several labels of Grappa, and a line of Olive Oils, sourced and crafted from the the Broglio Chianti Classico estate.
Barone Ricasoli Casalferro2015 from Tuscany, Italy
This label, Casalferro, was
first produced in 1993 when Francesco Ricasoli became president
of the company. This is 100% Merlot produced only during the best
years. Casalferro is sourced from the vineyard of the same name located at 400 meters above sea level and facing south. The brown clay loam soil with little organic content contributes to the exclusive personality of this great Chianti Merlot.
This release was awarded 95 points
by James Suckling, 93 points by Wine Spectator, and 92 points by Robert
Parker Wine Advocate.
Bright Ruby colored, medium bodied, black berry and black cherry fruits with tones of leather, anise licorice and dark cocoa and herbs, medium plus
acidity and medium plus tannins on a
long finish. One review wrote that this tastes more like a Sangiovese than a
Merlot from the New World, or the Right Bank.
This is from the legendary Italian producer, Angelo Gaja, whom are most notably known for their Barbaresco wines and some Bordeaux varietals under the ultra-premium Gaja brand.
This premium label is from their other branding in their broad portfolio.
At eighteen years, this is likely at the apex of its drinking profile and not likely to improve further with more aging.
This release was awarded 92 points by Stephen Tanzer's International
Wine Cellar:
This is a blend of 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Ssauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc.
Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, complex but elegant and nicely integrated black berry, black cherry and plum fruits with notes of exotic spices and soy, hints of mocha, leather and tobacco leaf with plush tannins and nicely balanced tannins on the long lingering finish.
Team Wine and Dine Dinner at Italian Village Chicago
After fifteen months of Covid shut-in WFH - (Work From Home) controlled work rules, we brought my leadership team into Chicago for re-engagement and strategic planning.
I hosted a dinner at our regular roost, my mainstay wine and dine site, Italian Village Chicago. This is our go-to site for such occasions given its proximity to the office, extraordinary winelist, dependable food service from the three restaurants, kitchens, chefs under one roof, and long standing friendship with Wine Director Jared Gelband.
As is our custom, we dined in one of the private dining rooms, Seeking Italian varietal wines for the Italian cuisine, Jared selected the initial wine course from special selections off the extensive winelist, and I selected a second follow on wine. I mentioned Barolo as a starter wine and Jared pulled an aged ten year old 2011 vintage from the cellar. To follow suit, I selected from the winelist another 2011 release wine for a mini-horizontal. As is customary, I selected a 'bigger' more exuberant wine so as not to be overshadowed or overpowered by the first selection.
Aurelio Settimo Rocche Dell Anunziata Barolo 2011
For native Italian faire we selected Italian varietal and produced wines. I suggested Barolo, a delicious red wine from the Piedmont region of Northern Italy.
Barolo is made strictly from Nebbiolo grapes. The Nebbiolo grape does not
travel well and is high maintenance, hence it has not been adopted by other regions and gained wider popularity beyond the Piemontese slopes of Northern Italy. It is much like another finicky or fickle grape varietal, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo is a reflection and expression of its terroir, and displays the subtleties of its environment.
The center of the universe for production of this varietal based world class exclusive and age-worthy red wines made from Nebbiolo is the Barolo wine region. The region consists of five core townships: La Morra, Monforte
d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto and the Barolo village
itself, as well as a few outlying villages.
The landscape of Barolo,
characterized by prominent and castle-topped hills, is full of history
and romance centered on the Nebbiolo grape. Barolo wines are known for their signature character profile: “tar and roses” aromas, a deceptively light garnet color,
but full presence on the palate and plenty of tannins and acidity. A
well-made Barolo wine will be complex and big with and aging profile that at its best needs 10-15 years before its ready to drink, and can further age for several decades.
Jared pulled from the vast Italian Village cellar and decade old Aurelio Settimo Rocche Dell Anunziata. This is a single vineyard designated label, the flagship top label for the reputable producer.
This producer and label dates back to 1962. Long before that, Domenico Settimo settled in the hamlet of Annunziata in the area known as La Morra in Piemonte in 1943, in an old farmhouse built at the end of the 19th century. Up until 1962 Settimos were farmers, working the land
(vineyards, fruit trees, hazelnuts) and breeding animals (hens, rabbits,
cows). They produced some grapes that were sold to big local wineries except a small
amount that they held back for the family to produce wine for themselves, friends
and relatives.
In the late 1950s, Domenico began bottling some of the
wine under the Settimo Domenico label. Son, Aurelio worked by his side and learned how
special the land and its terroir were. After Domenico died in 1962 Aurelio decided to specialize solely on growing grapes and producing wine.
Aurelio began extending the winery and growing production but 50% of the grapes
grown on the estate continued to be sold to the larger local wineries up until 1974. Since that 1974 vintage all the production has been vinified on site. The estate vineyards cover 14 acres and have been planted and replanted over the years such that the vines range in age between 18 and 46 years, mostly planted in Nebbiolo, with a couple with Dolcetto. The estate’s 8.5 acre prime vineyard, considered to be one of the area’s very finest crus, is the celebrated Rocche Dell’Annunziata.
The remaining 5.5 acres of Nebbiolo is used for their standard estate Barolo DOCG.
Since 2007, Aurelio’s daughter, Tiziana has been at the helm managing the company, holding to the long held philosophy to focus on quality and maintain respect for
tradition. They produce only red DOC wines,
exclusively from their own grapes. Their vineyards, all in
Annunziata hamlet adjacent to the cellar, are cultivated with Nebbiolo for Barolo grapes. The best of those are set aside for the prestigeous
cru Rocche dell’Annunziata. A small part is dedicated to dolcetto vine.
This was dark garnet with brick edges in colour, medium full bodied with aromatic
plum, blackberry and black cherry fruits with earthy peppercorn, rose, and notes of cigar box, licorice and spice with a dry acidic rounded finish.
Allegrini Amarone della Volpolicella Classico 2011
We moved to a bigger bolder wine for the entree course, selecting another 2011 vintage release for a mini-horizontal comparison, a perfect pairing with spicy pasta and dark Marsalla sauces.
This DOCG Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico from Allegriniis is always popular and one of the most awarded wines of its class and highest esteemed producers in Italy.
Drawing on more than six generations of Veneto
winegrowing tradition and a long running serious of successful vintage releasesm Allegrini has
received its 30th Tre Bicchieri (“Three Glasses”) award from Gambero
Rosso in 2014, placing it among the top producers in Italy.
Individually, Allegrini Amarone has received 16 Tre Bicchieri
designations, more than any other Amarone.
Family owned and operated by the Allegrini family, which has had roots in the Valpolicella
since the sixteenth century, they have nearly 250 acres of
hillside vineyards in the Classico zone. All Allegrini wines are 100% from grapes grown in the Estate’s
vineyards.
Amarone is the result of unique production technique where Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and
Oseleta grapes are left to air dry at least until December, checked daily to
ensure perfectly healthy grapes. Lengthy refining and aging finally
yields a red wine that has become emblematic of Italian oenology,
alongside Barolo and Brunello di Montalcino. The result is wine with imposing structure
and depth, as much in its aromas of mature fruit and spices, as on the
palate, where the alcohol is sustained by the right degree of acidity
and refined tannins.
This release was awarded93 points by Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast. 91 by James Suckling.
Dark ruby colored, full bodied and firm structure, expressive vibrant intense classic ripened raisin flavored dark cherry and raspberry fruits fronted by spice and herb notes with accents of
graphite, mocha, mineral and licorice.
“A Night in Sicily”Covid Lock-in Virtual Wine Dinner Presented by Chicago's Italian Village Restaurants
Italian Village Restaurants in Chicago hosted “A Night in Sicily” presented by Jared Gelband, Italian Village Wine
Director and Chef Jose, and guest host Italian Wine Specialist, Daniele Sbordi, who lead a virtual journey to the
island of Sicily and a tasting of wines from producer Donnafugata
Winery.
A four course dinner was specially prepared for pick-up at the restaurant complete with preparation directions and a wine course selection of three bottles of Donnafugata Sicilian wines.
For the occasion, we were joined by son Sean and daughter-in-law Michelle in person in our dining room, and daughter Erin and son-in-law Johnny and their four children, who attended virtually via zoom from their home. We were joined via zoom with another dozen folks.
To facilitate and optimize the experience, we set up a large screen TV and our computer in the dining room for the occasion.
The dinner:
Antipasta Crostini con Caponata - Rustic Italian Bread / Caponata Topping
Primi Ravioli con Ricotta - Hand made Ravioli / Ricotta and Parmesan Cheese / Pistachio pesto sauce
Secondi Braciole alla Siciliana - Filet Mignon / Proscutto / Provolone / Green Onion / Salsa di Pomodoro
Dolce Italian Cannoli / Italian Biscotti
Vini - The Wine
Donnafugata "Sur Sur" Sicilia DOC Grillo 2019
Donnafugata "Floramundi" Cerasuelo di Vittoria DOCG 2018
Donnafugata "Sul Volcano" Etna Rosso DOC 2017
I wrote in these pages recently about the art and magic of pairing food and wine to magnify the overall experience. Tonight, the masterful pairing of the wines to the food courses by Wine Director Jared and Chef Jose amplified both the food and the wine. As a result, as I wrote Jared in a follow up note, "everything exceeded my expectations, the food, the wine, the pairing, the overall experience".
Donnafugata was established in Sicily in 1983 byGiacomo Rallo, the fourth
generation of a family with over 160 years of experience in quality
wine, along with his wife Gabriella, a pioneer of viticulture in Sicily. Giacomo passed away in 2016, so the company today is run by their children José and Antonio and a team of people focused on excellence.
The name Donnafugata comes from a novel by Tomasi di Lampedusa entitled Il Gattopardo (The Leopard). The name that means “donna in fuga”
(woman in flight) refers to the story of a queen who found refuge
in the part of Sicily where the company’s vineyards are located today.
The adventure tome also inspired the corporate logo, the image of a woman’s
head with windblown hair that dominates the brand and adorns every bottle. All Donnafugata wines' labels and names are inspired by Gabriella Rallo and designed by Stefano Vitale whose original artwork is featured each on the labels of each of the two dozen wines they produce. His works were featured in an exhibition "Art and Wine - Chasing Donnafugata”, presented by
FAI – Fondo Ambiente Italiano in Milan in 2018 in the
prestigious Villa Necchi Campiglio.
Donnafugata produce over forty estate wines meaning they are sourced from the producer owned vineyards that span almost six hundred acres of 45 different varieties of grapes indigenous to Sicily. Total production is near 5 million bottles annually.
Donnafugatta "Sur Sur" is produced from Grillo, an ancient Sicilian grape varietal. The grape name grillo means cricket, for the crickets that are common in the region and said to bring good luck. The name comes from the classical Arabic language
which was once also spoken in Sicily. The label features Stefano Vitale artwork of Gabriella (founder
of Donnafugata, with her husband Giacomo) as a girl in flight, running
barefoot through the flowers and fresh grass.
This is 100% Grillo classified grapes from the Sicilian DOC, according to Italy’s 'denominazione di origine controllata' (DOC) classification system, akin to France's well-known Appellation d’origine controlee (AOC) and America's AVA systems. DOC, means designation of 'controlled origin', it is the second highest quality classification of the Italian system.
There are 329 different DOCs in Italy, across a wide range of red and
white wines across the country, from Prosecco sparkling wines to the Vin Santo dessert wines of Tuscany. Each DOC has its own rules about
permitted grape varieties, maximum harvest yields, alcohol levels, and aging
requirements including use of barrels.
The grapes are from the western tip of Sicily, the Contessa Entellina estate and neighboring areas and in the hilly hinterland between Marsala and Salemi in the Baiata, Alfaraggio, Pioppo district. The region has a distinctive terrior, hilly with altitudes from 200 to 600 meters, loamy sub-alkaline limestone soils, arid with little rainfall, with substantial variance in warm daytime to cool nightime temperatures with Meditteranean breezes, that is ideal for the growing and ripening of Grillo grapes.
Donnafugatta have five hundred acres in eight different sites in the region where they grow both white and red grape varietals.
This label has been produced since 2013 with 4000 cases annual production. It was awarded 91 points, #86 of the Top 100 Wines of 2019 by Wine Enthusiast.
This was a wonderful pairing with the antipasta courses. We cheated and added a starter course of Linda's wonderful lobster tails on a ramukan of buttered croutons. Following was the Italian Village Crostini con Caponata - Rustic Italian Bread / Caponata Topping. Linda improvised with this course and chopped the Caponata into a wonderful tapenade. Both were wonderfully complemented by this wine.
Winemaker notes: "Brilliant straw yellow, on the nose SurSur offers a fresh bouquet with
notes of white fleshed fruit (peach and cantaloupe melon) combined with
scents of wildflowers and mint. A soft palate, the fruity notes return
combined with pleasant freshness."
This was straw colored, light bodied, aromatic with sprites of citrus, tropical fruit, floral, melon and hints of peach, dry with crisp clean acidity. Good QPR in this label.
Donnafugata "Floramundi" Cerasuelo di Vittoria DOCG 2018
This is a blend of grape varietals: Nero D’Avola, King of the Sicilian red grapes, and Frappato,
one of the most ancient native varieties of Sicily, sourced from 88 acres of eight Donnafugatta estate vineyards from the prestigious denomination: Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, in the territory of Acate on the western side of the southern tip of Sicily.
The terroir is gently sloping terrain from 120 to 150 meters with sandy medium tectured limestone soils with warm temperate Mediterranean climate of warm temperate days moderated by sea breezes, and cool nights.
This label is classified DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), the highest quality classification designation for Italian wines. , while the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC), has less strict guidelines. The rules
for DOCG are stricter than DOC, yields must be lower and the wines
must be aged in barrels longer. Also, DOCG requires the wines be submitted for technical analysis and tasted for approval
by a government committee before they can be sold as DOCG wines. Interesting too, DOCG wines even have a numbered, government seal across the neck of the
bottle to prevent counterfeiting.
Floramundi, a refined red, the dialogue between two souls: the one of
Nero D’Avola, King of the Sicilian red grapes, and the one of Frappato,
one of the most ancient native varieties of Sicily.
Like all Donnafuggati labels, Floramundi features distinctive colorful artwork by Stefano Vitale artwork, sponsored by proprietor Gabriella Rallo. This label features the stylistic figure of a woman in a rainbow of symbols, of the tradition of the historic Pupi Siciliani (Sicilian
Puppets).
This is the third vintage release of this label; it was awarded 92 points by James Suckling, and 90 points by Wine Enthusiast.
This was a wonderful complement to the Italian Village Primi Course; Ravioli con Ricotta - Hand made Ravioli / Ricotta and Parmesan Cheese / Pistachio pesto sauce. Linda was the favorite wine, food and pairing of the rest of our group. I preferred the Secondi course and pairing.
Winemaker notes for this release: "Intense ruby color with bright purple reflections; Floramundi offers
intense fruity aromas, among which the notes of black cherry and berries
(blueberry) stand out; the bouquet opens with delicate balsamic nuances
of laurel and characteristic spicy notes of black pepper. The tasting
is supported by freshness and softness that make it juicy and very
pleasant to drink. The tannin is fine and well integrated. Floramundi
2018 expresses the harmonious balance that Cerasuolo di Vittoria can
reach."
Bright Ruby colored, light-medium bodied, bright vibrant cherry and cranberry fruit flavors accented by tangy acidity, dusty rose floral tones and hints of white pepper.
For the main Secondi course, Chef Jose prepared this imaginative Braciole alla Siciliana - Filet Mignon with Proscutto, Provolone and Green Onion in a robust tangy Salsa di Pomodoro. The Chef's directions called for this to be mixed with the accompanying Italian Village signature rosemary potatos.
Linda called an option and served the potatos on the side which was a great move - they were akin to a whole additional course in of themselve and provided another complete wonderful tasting pairing experience.
The Donnafugata Sul Vulcano label is from the Etna Rosso Denomination. It is a Etna Rosso DOC classified wine. It is a blend of Nerello Mascalese, the main red grape variety from the prestigious Etna appellation, with a small percentage of Nerello Cappuccio grape varietal.
The fruit for this label is sourced from Donnafugata 45 acres of estate vineyards in Eastern Sicily, on the north side of the historic volcano of Mt Etna, Europe’s highest active volcano from which it derives its name, between Randazza and Castiglione di Sicilia.
The terroir there is a higher altitude of 750 meters with deep mineral rich volcanic soil, cooler sub-climate with the Sicilian dramatic variations of warm days and cool nights.
This was more my style of wine, darker, more dense concentrated and complex, more like a Nebbiolo or a Bordeaux varietal. Naturally, this style was ideally paired with the hearty beefsteak, cheeses and tangy pomodoro sauce. As noted above, it also paired superbly with the rosemary potatoes.
The art series stylistic label features a goddess-volcano with intense colors, red,
yellows, and iridescent blacks, another design of artist Stefano Vitale.
This is the second vintage release of this label, first released in 2016.
James Suckling and Wine Critics.com both gave this 93 points.
Winemaker notes: "Pale ruby red, Sul Vulcano offers an elegant bouquet with notes of red
fruits (raspberry and cherry) and flowery scents (violet), along with
delicate spicy nuances of cinnamon and nutmeg."
Garnet colored, medium bodied, robust flavors of black raspberry and black cherry with notes of tobacco, hints of graphite, floral violets, hints of cinnamon and nutmeg spices with moderate tannins on the finish.
We supplemented Jared's Italian Village Donnafugata wine flight with a dessert wine from our cellar for the Dolce Course of Italian Cannoli and Italian Biscotti. Linda also served her Pots-au-de-Creme Chocolat dessert.
Château Suduiraut 1er Cru Classe Sauterne 2002 We enjoy sweet unctuous desert
wines with salads, cheese or deserts. This was a nice finisher, a
perfect complement to the final Dolce course.
This is a classic Sauterne, a blend of Semillon (94 %) and Sauvignon Blanc (6 %). Château Suduiraut is considered to be one of the finest Sauternes.
The
history of Château Suduiraut, dates back to the 1600’s. It was
classified as a Premier Cru during the official 1855 wine classification
programme. The French conglomerate AXA Millésimes acquired Suduiraut
in 1992. Golden honey, dark amber colored,
full bodied yet delicate, nicely balanced fruit and floral aromas,
complex roasted and candied notes of apple, vanilla and honey, medium
sweetness and a long smooth silky finish. Not as sweet and unctuous as
some vintages, the fruit is more subdued lacking the apricot nectar and
honey of some vintages. This showed plenty of botrytis, with predominate
notes of smoke, marzipan, almond, ripe apple, and hints of vanilla on
the tongue cloying finish. RM 91 Robert Parker's Wine Advocate rated this wine 90-93 points, Wine Spectator, 90 points.
