Piedlong CDP foie gras Il Fiore Langham NY

Piedlong CDP and Auxey-Duresses with Foie Gras small plates at Il Fiore Langham Hotel NYC

Langham Hotel Lobby Desk

During our NYC getaway weekend, before dinner, we stopped in the Michelin star Il Fiore restaurant bar in the tony Langham Hotel in NYC.

We were seeking small plates and some wine from their extraordinary selection for a casual setting. Not often does one have the choice of Phelps Insignia, Tignanello, Sea Smoke, Quilceda Creek, Cos d' Estournal and Vieux Telegraph BTG (By-The-Glass)!

I selected the Torchon Foie Gras with tart cherries and winter squash (shown below) which was perfect for the occasion and was spectacular with Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Piedlong.

Linda had the crispy grilled artichokes with parmesan and lemon aoli, with a Benjamin Leroux Auxey-Duresses Burgundy Pinot Noir which was not on the winelist and was substituted for our initial selection.

Il Fiore offers a elegant but casual comfortable setting for a delightful food and wine experience, albeit rather expensive, but in-line with New York prices and such quality premium offerings. We look forward to returning for dinner there during a future trip.



Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Piedlong 2013 

The BTG winelist (shown below) specifically said 'La Crau', which refers to the flagship CDP offering from this Domaine, but this label was served instead.

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe has been run by the Brunier family for six generations, since 1891. The estate’s vineyards sit on the Plateau of La Crau, the highest point, in the appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Back in the 1800's , Claude Chappe, inventor of the optical telegraph, built a signal tower on the property due to its high elevation in the region, hence the property was given the name “Vieux Télégraphe”.

This Piedlong label was first released in 2011. It comes from a 29 acre vineyard site from the stony soils on the Piedlong plateau in the heart of the appellation, north of the village, the highest point in the region. The Mourvèdre, comes from the Pignan lieu-dit, just to the east of Piedlong. We visited the Vieux Télégraphe estate during our CDP appellation tour back in 1998 and then again this year during our 2019 visit with owner/producer Alain Brunier at the Estate.

This label is a blend of 90% Genache Noir and 10% Mourvèdre. Comprised of but two varietals, its a simpler less complex wine than the flagship label which under appellation rules can contain up to thirteen different varietals.

This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant black currant and black raspberry fruits, notes of spicy cinnamon, hints of dust, tangy cherry, tapenade and mushroom with a smooth soft peppery lingering finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2880773

http://www.vieux-telegraphe.fr/en


Benjamin Leroux Auxey-Duresses Pinot Noir 2015

Il Fiore restaurant bar

Another substitution on the winelist, this label has a rouge and a blanc variant. We were looking for the blanc Chardonnay, but they served the rouge Pinot Noir instead.

Auxey-Duresses (pronounced “Oh-see”) is an appellation is in the famous Côte de Beaune area in the region of Burgundy, surrounded by two famous neighbors, Volnay and Meursault.

Readers of these pages know we don't do many Burgundies, mostly because we favor the Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) over the Burgundy Pinot Noir.

Also, I'm not knowledgeable in all the myriad of appellations and producers from the region and find it a bit confusing and mystifying. This is much the case for many folks, for many regions, but its especially challenging for Burgundy with all the mini and micro producers and labels that typifies what this regions is known for.

My advice to folks is to focus on one region, gather knowledge and experiences as a baseline and for comparisons, especially if one is going to start collecting wines.

We selected this Benjamin Leroux Pinot Noir from the Auxey-Duresses appellation, an area noted for high QPR and excellent value.

This is the label of Benjamin Leroux, manager/winemaker of Domaine Comte Armand who launched this label with the 2007 vintage. Leroux's Auxey-Duresses are from fruit sourced from vineyards that he manages, vineyards he owns, and he also buys fruit (never juice or wine) from growers with whom he works closely so to meet his standards.

The vineyards lie below the village of Beaune, adjacent to the Meursault Villages Les Vireuils Dessus and Les Meix Chavaux. The land is north-facing so it is affected by the cold air rolling down from the Hautes-Côtes.

The wines here come from three terroirs in this cool, mineral (rocky) place - Les Hautés, La Macabrée and Les Boutonniers. The oldest vines date back to 1946, planted just after the war. The vineyards span 2 hectares, large for this area where many of the properties are tiny in comparison. Hence Auxey-Duresses is a primary wine for Leroux.

Leroux's Auxey-Duresses is produced in a new winery in the center of the village of Beaune (just off the Boulevard) that is also used by Dominique Lafon and two other wine growers. The operation is very small and specializes in Puligny and Volnay, but there are over twenty different labels produced, in this ‘micro negociant’ operation.

Like so many Burgundy operations that are small, even tiny, only two to five barrels are produced from many of the offerings, resulting in extraordinary fragmentation and granularity in the plethora of small production labels.

This Pinot Noir was somewhat opaque, light in color and body, with blackberry and black cherry fruits accented by tones of leather, dusty rose and spice with smooth soft tannins on the finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2911060

Xavier Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2010

Xavier Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2010

 Xavier Vignon is one of the most highly renowned oenologists in Chateauneuf du Pape. He is the consultant for several well-known domaines such as Raymond Usseglio, Jerome Quiot, Beaurenard, La Nerthe, Mont Redon, Marcoux, Grand Veneur and La Gardine. These are all labels we know well and hold in our cellar collection.

View from Chateau LaNerthe looking in the
direction to Route Courthezon

I visited Chateau La Nerthe, and Mont Redon during our visit to the region during our Rhone Valley Wine trip back in 1998. Xaver's office and laboratory are down the road from and close to La Nerthe and the Chateau Fine Roches Hotel where we stayed during our visit. Xavier Vins does not have their own domaine so they produce their wines at the nearby Chateau Husson there on the route Courthezon.

Robert Parker visited Xavier and tasted his wines including this one in October of 2012. He writes "The blend of Xavier Vignon’s Chateauneuf du Pape can vary considerably. Vignon told me that it is a selection from nearly 120 different parcels in the appellation."

Often a wine consultant is paid in fruit or even in wine which he then can market under his own label. Hence the broad diversity and variation of such a label. Also, notably, his rather simple plain label therefore is void of a picture of any chateau or domaine or 'estate' reference.

Recall, as I've written in this pages, US labeling conventions use the term 'Estate' only when the grapes are grown on the proprietor/producers own property. In Bordeaux, this designation of attribution is referenced on the label notation "Mise en Boutille Au Chateau" (bottled at the chateau (estate). See yesterday's blogpost and label with notation.

So it is that Xavier Vignon is active in the wine business as an oenologist (winemaker and consultant) and negociant. He’s been a negociant since 2002 and produced his first Xavier Vins wine with the 2007 vintage.

In addition to his work in Chateauneuf du Pape, Xavier Vins also makes wine throughout the broader region in Gigondas, Cotes du Rhone and the Cotes du Rhone Villages, Vacqueyras, Ventoux and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise.

Before settling in the area and developing his career as an oenologist in the Southern Rhone, Xavier Vignon learned the craft working for various producers in Bordeaux , Napa Valley, Champagne and Australia.

the black pepper, spice, dark cherry, juicy kirsch, mint and herbs are right out in front. Plushly textured, this is a really nice wine that's fun to drink on the young side. The wine was made from a blend of 55% Grenache, 35% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah.
Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/rhone-wines-cote-rotie-hermitage-chateauneuf-du-pape/chateauneuf-du-pape-wine-producer-profiles/xavier-vins-chateauneuf-du-pape-rhone-wine/

Xavier Vins produces 3 red Chateauneuf du Pape wines and 2 Chateauneuf du Pape white wines.

Xavier Vins is the creation of the noted wine consultant, Xavier Vignon. Xavier Vignon works with numerous domaines in the Southern Rhone Valley including: Raymond Usseglio , La Nerthe , Marcoux , Gardine , Jerome Quiot, Beaurenard , Mont Redon , Maucoil , Roger Perrin and Grand Veneur are just some of the wineries he works with. Before his career really took as an oenologist in the Southern Rhone, Xavier Vignon practiced his trade in several countries and continents including stints in Bordeaux , the Napa Valley, Chapmagne and Australia.
Xavier Vins Vineyards, Wines, Winemaking
Xavier Vignon is one of the people active in the wine business with dual careers, as an oenologist and negociant . He’s been a negociant since 2002. The combination of those two skill sets formed the partnership that led to producing their own wine. Xavier Vins produced their first wine with the 2007 vintage, and they have not looked back since. As Xavier Vins does not have their own domaine, the wines are produced in in Courthezon at Chateau Husson .
Aside from making wine in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, Xavier Vins also makes wine in Gigondas, Cotes du Rhone and the Cotes du Rhone Villages, Vacqueyras, Ventoux and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise.
Xavier Vins produces 3 red Chateauneuf du Pape wines and 2 Chateauneuf du Pape white wines.
Xavier Vins Chateauneuf du Pape was made for the first time from the 2007 vintage. The blend can vary from year to year as the grapes come from perhaps 120 different parcels in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation. The wine is aged in French oak barrels of various ages, shapes and sizes.
Xavier Vins Anonyme made its debut with the 2007 vintage. The blend can vary from vintage to vintage as the grapes are sourced from more than different parcels scattered among the appellation. For example, in 2010, the wine was produced using mostly old vine Grenache from vines that were more than 100 years of age, along with a percentage of other, allowable grape varieties. In other vintages, the wine was produced from blending about 25% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre , 25% Syrah and 25% Counoise . In other vintages, while dominated by Grenache, the blend can include all 13 allowable grape varieties. Xavier Vins Anonyme is aged in a combination of concrete vats and French oak barrels of various sizes and shapes. This is their flagship wine and the strongest wine in their portfolio. This could be the latest released wine from the region, as the 2007 was not available until 2013, which could be even later than the release of Celestins from Henri Bonneau !
Xavier Vins La Reserve VII IX X – The wine is a multi vintage blend that was produced most recently from the following 3 vintages, as you can tell from the Roman numerals in the name; 2007, (43%), 2009, (21%) and 2010 with 36% of the blend.
Xavier Vins Cuvee Anonyme Blanc made its debut with the 2012 vintage. The wine is produced from blending 50% Roussanne , 40% Grenache Blanc and 10% Clairette . 70% of the wine is aged in barrel and the remaining 30% is aged in stainless steel tanks.
Xavier Vins Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is made from a blend of 40% Grenache Blanc, 40% Roussanne and 20% Clairette, but the blend changes from vintage to vintage. The wine is barrel fermented and aged in barrel for 6 months before bottling.
Serving and Decanting Xavier Vins with Wine, Food Pairing Tips
Xavier Vins is best served at 15.5 degrees Celsius, 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The cool, almost cellar temperature gives the wine more freshness and lift. Young vintages can be popped and poured, or decanted for an hour so. This allows the wine to soften and open its perfume. Older vintages might need very little decanting, just enough to remove the sediment. Xavier Vins is best served with all types of classic meat dishes, veal, pork, beef, lamb, duck, game, roast chicken, roasted, braised, stewed dishes, sausage and cassoulet. Xavier Vins is also good with Asian dishes, hearty fish courses like tuna, mushrooms pasta, eggplant and tomatoes.
The white wine of Xavier Vins is best served with a myriad of different seafood dishes, shellfish, crab, lobster, sushi, sashimi, chicken, pork and veal, as well as Asian cuisine.
Xavier Vins produces a few wines from the Cotes du Rhone appellation as we mentioned. But one wine stands out for its uniqueness. He produces a blend of 50% Grenache from the Southern Rhone and 50% Syrah from the Northern Rhone , called. SM Cotes du Rhone.
www.xaviervins.com

Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/rhone-wines-cote-rotie-hermitage-chateauneuf-du-pape/chateauneuf-du-pape-wine-producer-profiles/xavier-vins-chateauneuf-du-pape-rhone-wine/

Xavier Vignon is one of the people active in the wine business with dual careers, as an oenologist and negociant . He’s been a negociant since 2002. The combination of those two skill sets formed the partnership that led to producing their own wine. Xavier Vins produced their first wine with the 2007 vintage, and they have not looked back since. As Xavier Vins does not have their own domaine, the wines are produced in in Courthezon at Chateau Husson .
Aside from making wine in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, Xavier Vins also makes wine in Gigondas, Cotes du Rhone and the Cotes du Rhone Villages, Vacqueyras, Ventoux and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise.
Xavier Vins produces 3 red Chateauneuf du Pape wines and 2 Chateauneuf du Pape white wines.

Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/rhone-wines-cote-rotie-hermitage-chateauneuf-du-pape/chateauneuf-du-pape-wine-producer-profiles/xavier-vins-chateauneuf-du-pape-rhone-wine/

Xavier Vignon is one of the people active in the wine business with dual careers, as an oenologist and negociant . He’s been a negociant since 2002. The combination of those two skill sets formed the partnership that led to producing their own wine. Xavier Vins produced their first wine with the 2007 vintage, and they have not looked back since. As Xavier Vins does not have their own domaine, the wines are produced in in Courthezon at Chateau Husson .
Aside from making wine in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, Xavier Vins also makes wine in Gigondas, Cotes du Rhone and the Cotes du Rhone Villages, Vacqueyras, Ventoux and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise.
Xavier Vins produces 3 red Chateauneuf du Pape wines and 2 Chateauneuf du Pape white wines.

Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/rhone-wines-cote-rotie-hermitage-chateauneuf-du-pape/chateauneuf-du-pape-wine-producer-profiles/xavier-vins-chateauneuf-du-pape-rhone-wine/vier Vins is the creation of the noted wine consultant, Xavier Vignon. Xavier Vignon works with numerous domaines in the Southern Rhone Valley including: Raymond Usseglio , La Nerthe , Marcoux , Gardine , Jerome Quiot, Beaurenard , Mont Redon , Maucoil , Roger Perrin and Grand Veneur are just some of the wineries he works with. Before his career really took as an oenologist in the Southern Rhone, Xavier Vignon practiced his trade in several countries and continents including stints in Bordeaux , the Napa Valley, Chapmagne and Australia.

Xavier Vins Vineyards, Wines, Winemaking
Xavier Vignon is one of the people active in the wine business with dual careers, as an oenologist and negociant . He’s been a negociant since 2002. The combination of those two skill sets formed the partnership that led to producing their own wine. Xavier Vins produced their first wine with the 2007 vintage, and they have not looked back since. As Xavier Vins does not have their own domaine, the wines are produced in in Courthezon at Chateau Husson .
Aside from making wine in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, Xavier Vins also makes wine in Gigondas, Cotes du Rhone and the Cotes du Rhone Villages, Vacqueyras, Ventoux and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise.
Xavier Vins produces 3 red Chateauneuf du Pape wines and 2 Chateauneuf du Pape white wines.
Xavier Vins Chateauneuf du Pape was made for the first time from the 2007 vintage. The blend can vary from year to year as the grapes come from perhaps 120 different parcels in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation. The wine is aged in French oak barrels of various ages, shapes and sizes.
Xavier Vins Anonyme made its debut with the 2007 vintage. The blend can vary from vintage to vintage as the grapes are sourced from more than different parcels scattered among the appellation. For example, in 2010, the wine was produced using mostly old vine Grenache from vines that were more than 100 years of age, along with a percentage of other, allowable grape varieties. In other vintages, the wine was produced from blending about 25% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre , 25% Syrah and 25% Counoise . In other vintages, while dominated by Grenache, the blend can include all 13 allowable grape varieties. Xavier Vins Anonyme is aged in a combination of concrete vats and French oak barrels of various sizes and shapes. This is their flagship wine and the strongest wine in their portfolio. This could be the latest released wine from the region, as the 2007 was not available until 2013, which could be even later than the release of Celestins from Henri Bonneau !
Xavier Vins La Reserve VII IX X – The wine is a multi vintage blend that was produced most recently from the following 3 vintages, as you can tell from the Roman numerals in the name; 2007, (43%), 2009, (21%) and 2010 with 36% of the blend.
Xavier Vins Cuvee Anonyme Blanc made its debut with the 2012 vintage. The wine is produced from blending 50% Roussanne , 40% Grenache Blanc and 10% Clairette . 70% of the wine is aged in barrel and the remaining 30% is aged in stainless steel tanks.
Xavier Vins Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is made from a blend of 40% Grenache Blanc, 40% Roussanne and 20% Clairette, but the blend changes from vintage to vintage. The wine is barrel fermented and aged in barrel for 6 months before bottling.
Serving and Decanting Xavier Vins with Wine, Food Pairing Tips
Xavier Vins is best served at 15.5 degrees Celsius, 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The cool, almost cellar temperature gives the wine more freshness and lift. Young vintages can be popped and poured, or decanted for an hour so. This allows the wine to soften and open its perfume. Older vintages might need very little decanting, just enough to remove the sediment. Xavier Vins is best served with all types of classic meat dishes, veal, pork, beef, lamb, duck, game, roast chicken, roasted, braised, stewed dishes, sausage and cassoulet. Xavier Vins is also good with Asian dishes, hearty fish courses like tuna, mushrooms pasta, eggplant and tomatoes.
The white wine of Xavier Vins is best served with a myriad of different seafood dishes, shellfish, crab, lobster, sushi, sashimi, chicken, pork and veal, as well as Asian cuisine.
Xavier Vins produces a few wines from the Cotes du Rhone appellation as we mentioned. But one wine stands out for its uniqueness. He produces a blend of 50% Grenache from the Southern Rhone and 50% Syrah from the Northern Rhone , called. SM Cotes du Rhone.
www.xaviervins.com

Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/rhone-wines-cote-rotie-hermitage-chateauneuf-du-pape/chateauneuf-du-pape-wine-producer-profiles/xavier-vins-chateauneuf-du-pape-rhone-wine/

We tasted this with an assortment of artisan cheeses.

This was lighter than we expected. Dark blackish garnet colored, it was medium light bodied, the dark brooding fruits were more subdued than we expected, overtaken by non-fruit layers of herbs and spices with hints of black olive, pepper and mushroom on the short finish.

The next day, this was more balanced taking on an interesting tone of bourbon whiskey without the heat.

This is a blend of 65% Grenache and the remainder is equal proportions of Mouvedre and Syrah.  

The more subdued fruit flavors may be indicative of the proportion of Genache over the Syrah and Mouvedre in the blend. This may be another indication leading to my disfavor of Grenache over the other CDP varietals.

RM 88 points. Robert Parker gave this 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1555520

www.xaviervins.com

High QPR Casual Summer Sippers

High QPR Casual Summer Sippers

After conducting a public tour at the Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio, in Oak Park, as a volunteer docent interpreter, I joined the staff in a member's after closing birthday celebration on the patio. Happy Birthday, Mark! A casual light hearted affair under the unseasonably warm spring late afternoon sun, we tasted a trio of well selected easy drinking, high QPR (quality to price ratio) sippers ideally suited for such an occasion.

It is worth mentioning and featuring these three selections for summer every day drinking, as they also qualify as respectable selections for dining or even special occasions.

Bodegas Borsao Garnacha Campo de Borja 2013

We don't normally drink Grenache varietal wines, or Garnacha as their Spanish selections are called, especially at this price point, since it is such a rarity to find this quality and enjoyable drinking in this class. Even the eponymous Robert Parker says, “If you have not yet discovered the great values of Bodegas Borsao, it´s about time you do”.  Wine Spectator cites them as “One of the Top 100 wineries of the world”. Voila! Its was news to me! Grenache tends to have bold forward characteristics that I normally prefer as part of a blend such as in a Chateauneuf du Pape, rather than as the 'main course'.

This is the second label of Tres Picos, which is the producer's flagship old vine Grenache, but at a fraction of the price. While not complex, polished or sophisticated, this is great value for keeping at hand in the cellar for everyday drinking with pizza, barbecue ribs, perhaps riccota cheese and pasta. Its not for the feint of heart, its a bold wine which will go best with food for the more timid red wine drinker. This blend of 75% Garnacha and 25% Tempranillo is not for cellaring or aging, but instant gratification pop and pour drinking.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium to full bodied, bold, concentrated deep flavors of black berries accented by smoke, creosote and tobacco, with earthy spice tones and a modest dry finish. 

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1825069

http://bodegasborsao.com/about-us/

Domaine Lafage Novellum VDP (Vin de Pays) des Côtes Catalanes Chardonnay 2013

"Novellum" is Latin for "fresh" and is aptly named for youthful early drinking. From the Languedoc Roussillon region in the south of France, this is another incredible value that at around $10-12 is a great buy for keeping around for casual easy sipping, yet worthy for respectable serious pairing with food.

Straw colored, medium to full bodied, not necessarily complex but what Wine Advocate calls 'exotic', with predominant forward bright vibrant white peach fruit flavor with floral, creme, brioche and almond nut flavors with bright acidity, soft smooth finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2006000

http://www.domaine-lafage.com/



Matetic "EQ" Coastal Casablanca Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc 2013

Another nice selection for casual enjoyable every day drinking at a great QPR value. There is always a place for Sauvignon Blanc since it is the grape varietal that is the most true to its sense of place and source, a simple basic wine that is not subject to adulteration or extreme notes, hence approachable and acceptable to all comers.

This comes from the Casablanca Valley in Chile, an emerging wine region adjacent to the coast so that the cool moderate coastal breezes make for ideal conditions for moderate white wines. The grapes for this wine come from estate vineyards in the area of “Valle Hermoso,” (beautiful valley) located about 8 miles from the Pacific.


Straw colored, light to medium bodied, ripe green apple predominates with tones of lime and passion fruits and melon with creamy notes and bright crisp acidity on the clean finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1849485

Dave Phinney Winemaker - Marketing Maven or Madman

Dave Phinney Winemaker - Marketing Maven or Madman

I've written several times in this blog about imaginative and unusual marketing and branding concepts of various wine producers such as Dave Phinney of Orin Swift and the Marilyn Merlot Series from Nova Wines.  So, imagine my surprise when I traced this latest label discovery back to him. In my continuing study of wine labeling and branding, I found perhaps the most unusual wine label yet, Fittings Grenache. I didn't think it could get more bizarre until upon researching the label I discovered it was the work of Dave Phinney. I can't imagine what he was thinking when selecting the artwork for this label. It features a collection of plumbing connecting pipes, and not necessarily new bright and shiny ones. Its nice to see folks who have a sense of humor. You decide.

In fairness to Mr Phinney, it is not apparent that he claims attribution to the wine or the brand. The IGP Cotes Catalanes Rousillion wine is identified as being the product of a rather obscure source, bottled by Sarl H and Co. in Maury, France, in the Pyrenees near the border with Spain. The wine is brought to and distributed in the US by distributor Vanguard Wines of Columbus, Ohio. They distribute many well known labels including some of our favorites such as Lewis Cellars in addition to Orin Swift wines. Several merchants and restaurants attribute this wine to Mr. Phinney. 

Hartford Zinfandel Highlights Summer Barbecue Zinfandel-Syrah Replay

Hartford Zinfandel Highlights Summer Barbecue Zinfandel-Syrah Replay

A gala summer barbecue rib dinner with out of town visitors Eric and Cathy, and Bill and Beth, provided a chance to taste a selection of hearty big reds - California Zins, Aussie Shiraz, and a outlier Grenache.

Following our Zinfandel barbecue a few weeks ago, we did a replay to try another pair of vintage Sonoma Valley/County Zins from Hartford Russian River Valley and Benziger Sonoma Valley.

Bridging the Zins to a pair of Aussie Shiraz' was'Melée' Grenache from Tuck Beckstoffer, followed by HazyBlur Baroota and Flinders Ranges Shiraz'. These were all enjoyed with the ribs, artisan cheeses, bacon wrapped blue cheese stuffed figs and double chocolate cake desert. 


Hartford Fanucchi Wood Road Vineyard Russian River Valley Zinfandel 2003

This single vineyard select offering sourced from century old vines is the fifth blockbuster Hartford Zinfandel I've sampled over the last decade and I have yet to be disappointed, or even to encounter a less than stellar offering. However, at $60 retail, this is at the high end for this varietal. Located in the Sonoma County town of Forestville, the winery is about 15 miles from the cool Pacific Coast, an area more noted for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir than Zinfandel, varietals also produced by Hartford.

In the years near and leading up to this vintage the accolades were flowing for Hartford and their Zinfandel labels. The early release of Hartford Vineyard Zinfandel was chosen by The Wine Spectator's James Laube as one of the "Best Zins available in 1996".

In 2002, winemaker Mike Sullivan named "Winemaker of the Year" by Ronn Wiegand M.S., M.W. in Restaurant Wines and Robert Parker's Wine Advocate named the Hartford Family Winery Winemaker, a "wine personality of the year." The 2000 Hartford Fanucchi-Wood Road Vineyard Zinfandel was named in the Top Ten Wines of 2002 by Bob Johnson, Wine Times, in January 2003.

This vintage release at ten years old was still at or near its peak, despite some hint of age in its color. Dark inky garnet color with a slight brownish hue, this is concentrated and rich, with full aromas and dense flavors of black raspberry and boysenberry with hints of blueberry fruit intermixed with black pepper, spice and hints of wood and mocha on a firm tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=81483

http://www.hartfordwines.com

Benziger Family Bruschera Vineyard Sonoma Valley Zinfandel 2007

Bill and Beth brought this hearty zin on cue for our barbecue. We became acquainted with Benziger Family Sonoma Valley wines when we met  Erinn Benziger of Benziger Family Winery when she visited Chicago and presented at Binny's Beverage Depot Midwest Wine Expo. We all then visited Benziger Family Estate Vineyards and Winery in Sonoma Valley in the Autumn of 2009 during our Sonoma Wine Experience. Today over a dozen different family members are active in the extended family wine business that prides itself on the extent of its 'green' initiatives - certified sustainable, organic or Biodynamic© wines. A visit to their Sonoma Family Estate is a study in the practice with their numerous exhibits and self guided and formal tours of the property.

Benziger produce a wide variety of wines but their Zinfandel is rather obscure and limited production. Bill and Beth find their premium Sauvignon Blanc as one of their favorite Benziger releases. I found their limited production release cabernet blends to be their most memorable such as their 'Tribute' and 'Signaterra'
blends which were the highlight of their Binny's Expo tasting, along with the Sauvignon Blanc.

This Zinfandel is a limited single vineyard designated release from the Bruschera Family Vineyard,  located on the Mayacamas (eastern) side of Sonoma Valley with twenty–two year old vines planted in white volcanic alluvial soil that produces hearty Zinfandel fruit with lush ripe flavors. As is the Benziger practice, the the Bruschera family practice organic sustainable agriculture - no herbicides or pesticides are used. The vineyard soil is nurtured through the use of cover crops, composts, compost teas and mulches.

Benziger attributes the Bruschera Vineyard old Zinfandel vines to produce concentrated fruit with aromas and flavors of blackberry, bramble, black cherry and hints of oak, spice and espresso bean.

Bill C's tasting note on Cellartracker -  Deep indigo color. Soft, round but evidencing the bramble and spice expected in a Zinfandel. While certainly representative of the varietal, there are better, more distinctive Zin's available at this $35 price point.

Bill C 84 points. RM 87 points.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1001372

http://www.benziger.com

'Melée' Grenache 2010 from Tuck Beckstoffer

As reported in tasting blog last winter ... Wine enthusiasts will recognize the Beckstoffer name for their ownership of the legendary and exclusive To Kalon vineyard in southern Napa Valley - source of grapes to some of the most notable wines and labels from the region. Second generation Tuck Beckstoffer has created several brands and labels sourcing fruit from various sources throughout California.

This is the second release of Melée Grenache. The large heavy oversize bottle is the first indication this wine is not for the feint of heart. The artistic primevil label should be further indication this is a unique wine. I would like to think that the over-the-top packaging is not to make up for the deficiencies in the product, but rather make a statement about the product the producer is striving to make, and that this particular product is not my 'cup of tea' as they say. More to the point, this is not the style of wine that I prefer and tend to favor but it was fun discovering and tasting.

Grenache is a variety of grape generally grown in hotter climates such as Spain (Garnachia), Australia, the Southern Central Valley in California and in the Southern Rhone River valley in France. Grenache produces spicy, berry-flavored fruit that tends to be soft on the palate with a with a relatively high alcohol content. It is commonly used in blending Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines in the Rhone region, and in Australia with other Rhone varietals Syrah and Mouvedre to produce 'GSM' (Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre) wines.I've never been a fan of Grenache however its generally not found standalone, but rather its generally widely produced to be blended with other varietals of complementary characteristics where the sum of the parts is greater than the parts resulting in a more complex but approachable and enjoyable drinking blend.

The fruit for Melee is sourced from Central California. It is a deep ruby/plum color with characteristic Grenache aromas and flavors - cherry, black cherry, early season plum, scents of shale, new leather and a hint of tobacco,big forward flavors of red currant, hints of pomegranate and licorice with firm, tannins and soaring acidity that produce a long lasting, focused finish.

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1401606

http://meleewines.com/

HazyBlur Baroota South Australia Shiraz 2004

Bill and I discovered and first tasted the Baroota label from this producer while attending an industry conference and dining together at Emeril's at Universal Studios in Orlando. I had previously picked up and tasted other labels from this producer from Total Wine in Virginia.

Bill's tasting notes from Cellartracker - Continues to get better and better. Opaque, dark purple in the glass. Over time, the astringency and spice so evident when young has morphed into deep, complex and layered notes of mocha, clove, blackberry and a bit of plum. Although delicious in its youth, this is for me, a much more interesting wine as a 9 year old. Still 2 bottles left.

Bill C and RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=150186




Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Baroota Australia Shiraz 2005

One of our favorite wines with a big QPR (Quality Price Ratio). Dark inky colour - full bodied, elegant rich thick chewy - symphony of flavors of sweet currant, ripe plum, red raspberry, blueberry, a layer of mocha accented by hints of pepper, vanilla, and spice, and a lingering essence of creme brulee' and cedar on the long full soft finish. Now seven years old with a bit of age, this wine is smoother, more polished and more approachable than earlier tastings when young.

RM 92 points. 

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=421985

We first discovered this wine down in central Illinois wineshop Friar Tuck's. We bought some and brought it home and loved it. We bought case quantities from Southern Hemisphere Wines in Huntington Beach, SoCal. Eventually Binny's featured this wine and we bought it all and are fortunate to have a supply as we continue to enjoy this wine which is improving with age! Ironically, I was downstate last week and ventured back into that Friar Tuck's store and they still had two bottles remaining from their original two cases. Needless to say, I grabbed em!

Two bold and hearty Australian Shiraz's - perfect complement to hearty barbecue rib dinner with special friends. 

After dinner with double chocolate cake, fresh fruits and angel food cake with chocolate sauce we served two dessert wines - Elyse Napa Valley Cabernet Port and Triebaumer Ruster Ausbruch. 


Elyse Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Port

The convergence of our two dinner guest couples, Eric & Cathy are in town to visit daughter Elyse, namesake of a Napa wine producer that we visited with Bill & Beth during our last Napa Valley Wine Experience. We picked this up at the winery in anticipation of such a gathering. 

This Port is made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the 1½ acre vineyard at the winery on Hoffman Lane in right off Highway 29 in southern Napa Valley. 

During the natural fermentation of the Cabernet Sauvignon, the native yeast was allowed consume half of the initial grape sugar before the fermentation was arrested by adding aged Zinfandel and Viognier Brandy from Germain-Robin Alambic - noted Mendocino County brandy producer.

The winemaker notes - This Port reveals aromas of saturated blueberries, raspberries, and mint that lead to flavors of dark chocolate, whiskey, and vanilla. The wine spent 18 months resting in neutral French oak barrels.This Port is the perfect accompaniment to chocolate desserts or pair with blue cheese and sliced pears.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=613351

http://www.elysewinery.com/
 

Repeated from recent wine blog post - click for more details on this wine and its source. from two weeks ago

Herbert Triebaumer Ruster Ausbruch Burgenland Neusiedlersee-Hügelland Rust 1996/1997

This is a Chardonnay blend of Fürmint and Gelber Muskatellier (Furmint and Gold Muscatel grape varieties). While this was no doubt straw colored upon release, over time it darkened to butter color, then weak tea colored, eventually darkening to the dark orange rust color it possesses now. Allowed to continue to age, this will likely eventually darken to dark strong tea color, although I suspect it won't necessarily improve the flavor and suitability of the wine. Some classic dessert wines are built to last decades, I suspect this Ruster Ausbruch is at or even past its peak drinking window. We still have a case of this wine, so watch this blog as we monitor this over the coming months and years.

The thick almost syrupy extracted sweet fruit was offset by a smoky almond nut flavor. Rather than the highly desirable apricot or peach flavors, this tended to be more cirtus focused. This was a great complement to hard Parmesan cheese.

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1455246

New Release Cab Blends and Eclectic Outliers Befitting Stuffed Pasta Shells Bolognese

For an early holiday season dinner, Linda prepared stuffed pasta shell bolognese and we tasted two new release Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux style blends - one old favorite from California Napa Valley and a new discovery from Washington State Columbia Valley. We also tried two varied 'southern' discoveries to complement the hearty entree - one from southern California and one from southern Italy. An interesting flight provided two comparative tastings in contrasting styles. The Cabernet Blends were the latest release Beaulieu Vineyards Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve 2009 alongside the new release 2009 'Trutina' from Dunham Cellars Columbia Valley. The random selection was 'Melee' Grenache 2010 from Tuck Beckstoffer alongside a southern Italian Montevetrano Salerno 2007. For starters Linda prepared lobster tail medallions with drawn butter and we tasted chilled 2009 Napa Valley Pinot Grigio from Nils Venge Saddleback Cellars. Bill and Beth C brought the Tapestry and the Montrevetrano.

Dinner included a side of fresh asparagus with hollandaise sauce. Anti pasta included a selection of artisan cheeses included my favorite Bellavitano, sharp cheddar and Manchego. To finish we had a selection of homemade holiday sweets - chocolate peanut butter fudge, pecan sandy cookies, chocolate mint brownies and pecan pie squares - all great accompaniments to the wines - white and red.

Beaulieu Vineyards Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve 2009 

We've been fans of Tapestry for over a decade. Indeed our vertical collection goes back to the 1996 vintage. I recently noted that the 2008 release was one of the most expressive I remember tasting. Well, the 2009 meet and may have surpassed the '08! I look forward to a comparison tasting between the two soon.

Dark inky purple color, medium-full bodied the 09 Tapestry shows deep briary blackberry and black cherry with a layer of cassis and hints of floral and graphite with moderate tannic backbone on the finish.

This was even better the next evening, more polished and elegant as the flavors seemed more balanced and the tannins better integrated. Pop it and let it open! *Add another point if you give it some time. 

The blend is 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot, and 1% Malbec.

RM 91 points. *

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1495237



Dunham Cellars 'Trutina' Columbia Valley Red Wine 2009

Like the Tapestry, we have a vertical collection of Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Red Wine Blend going back a dozen vintages to the nineties. What a nice surprise to discover this unique offering from Columbia River Valley in Washington, not considered a Bordeaux varietal region. This is our first tasting of Trutina, a second label from Dunham at a lower pricepoint that offers great QPR (Quality to Price ratio) in this complex and expressive red wine blend. Not as polished or refined as the Tapestry perhaps but more full and forward showing dark inky color, medium to full bodied, full forward bright vibrant aromas and flavors of black currant and black cherry fruits with a layer of sweet caramel mocha on a moderate tannin lingering finish.

The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, 6% Syrah, and 4% Malbec.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1456899  

'Melée' Grenache 2010 from Tuck Beckstoffer

Wine enthusiasts will recognize the Beckstoffer name for their ownership of the legendary and exclusive To Kalon vineyard in southern Napa Valley - source of grapes to some of the most notable wines and labels from the region. Second generation Tuck Beckstoffer has created several brands and labels sourcing fruit from various sources throughout California.

This is the second release of Melée Grenache. The large heavy oversize bottle is the first indication this wine is not for the feint of heart. The artistic primevil label should be further indication this is a unique wine. I would like to think that the over-the-top packaging is not to make up for the deficiencies in the product, but rather make a statement about the product the producer is striving to make, and that this particular product is not my 'cup of tea' as they say. More to the point, this is not the style of wine that I prefer and tend to favor but it was fun discovering and tasting.

Grenache is a variety of grape generally grown in hotter climates such as Spain (Garnachia), Australia, the Southern Central Valley in California and in the Southern Rhone River valley in France. Grenache produces spicy, berry-flavored fruit that tends to be soft on the palate with a with a relatively high alcohol content. It is commonly used in blending Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines in the Rhone region, and in Australia with other Rhone varietals Syrah and Mouvedre to produce 'GSM' (Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre) wines.I've never been a fan of Grenache however its generally not found standalone, but rather its generally widely produced to be blended with other varietals of complementary characteristics where the sum of the parts is greater than the parts resulting in a more complex but approachable and enjoyable drinking blend.

The fruit for Melee is sourced from Central California. It is a deep ruby/plum color with characteristic Grenache aromas and flavors - cherry, black cherry, early season plum, scents of shale, new leather and a hint of tobacco,big forward flavors of red currant, hints of pomegranate and licorice with firm, tannins and soaring acidity that produce a long lasting, focused finish.

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1401606

http://meleewines.com/

Azienda Agricola Montevetrano, Montevetrano Colli di Salerno IGT Red Wine Blend 2007 

From five hectares (ten acres) of estate vineyards about five miles inland from the coastal town of Salerno, Silvia Imparato’s Azienda Agricola Montevetrano boutique estate in the Comune di San Cipriano Picentino produces about 2500 cases a year of sophisticated complex ageworthy red blend wines per year since 1993.  Strongly persistent wines benefit from the coastal location and mild climate, in vineyards protected by the Picentini Mountain peaks. 

Deep, intensely dark concentrated ruby colored it exhibits floral scents of woodlands, violets, cedar and blackberry and cherry fruits. Intense full forward cherry and black cherry flavors are accented by spice with tones of  tobacco, tea and leather with balanced layers of firm tight tannins, acidity and wood.

Montevetrano is a Colli di Salerno IGT red wine made from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Aglianico Taurasi.

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=733658

http://www.montevetrano.it/inglese/home2.htm 

Nils Venge Saddleback Cellars Napa Valley Pinot Grigio 2009

I guess one shouldn't be surprised to find a Pinot Grigio from Napa Valley from Nils Venge, known for Cabernet Sauvignon and traditional Napa Valley Bordeaux varietals Merlot, Cabernet Franc and even Petit Verdot, considering his Scout's Honor Zinfandel Blend and smaller lot releases of Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Charbono, and Petite Sirah, but I was, and especially so to find it here in the midwest in suburban Chicago at our local Main Street Liquors & Wine Shop in LaGrange.

Being long time fans of Nils Venge and his wine-making artistry going back to his days as winemaker for Del Dotto Vineyards and his Venge Vineyards label, and his more recent work at Fantesca Estate Vineyards and Winery from the Spring Mountain District, we had to pick this up to try. 

We first met Nils at Del Dotto when he was their winemaker while also managing his Penny Lane Vineyard over at his Saddleback Cellars during our Napa visits in the mid and late nineties and then during our Napa Wine Experience in 2002  (below) which featured Venge Vineyards and Nils and Kirk Venge's Rossini Ranch.

Tasting Venge Penny Lane Family Reserve Cabernet w/ AJ
and Nils Venge at Tra Vigne in St Helena

This proved to be a great complement to the artisan cheeses - my favorite Bellavitano, sharp cheddar and Manchego, and the highlight starter course lobster medallions in drawn butter.

Grapes for this wine are sourced from four rows planted in 1995 right outside the door of the winery in Oakville, Napa Valley, and from neighbor’s, the Garvey’s vineyard, located just down the road. Venge proclaims enjoying a tradition of picking the Pinot Grigio themselves each year!

This Pinot Grigio was straw colored, medium bodied, flowery, perfumed  with crisp ripe fruits of lemon citrus, pear, and lychee, hints of pine-nuts with a clean, long finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=930618

http://www.saddlebackcellars.com/