Sunday, November 5, 2023

Far Niente Chardonnay highlights seafood dinner at Hugo's Frogbar Naperville

Far Niente Chardonnay highlights seafood dinner at Hugo's Frogbar Naperville - Pan Seared Walleye rivals favorite memorable fresh seafood dishes - a retrospective ...

We joined son Ryan and his family for his birthday celebration dinner. at Hugo's Frogbar in Naperville (IL). 

Hugo’s Frog Bar & Fish House (Chicago) opened its doors in February 1997 in the heart of Chicago’s Gold Coast neighborhood, next to sister restaurant Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse. Since its founding in 1989 the iconic Gibson's Bar & Steakhouse on Rush Street has been the flagship of what has become the Gibson's Restaurant Group

Over the years the Gibson's Restaurant Group portfolio has grown - today they own and operate several distinguished concept restaurants throughout Chicagoland and beyond: Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse, Hugo’s Frog Bar & Fish House (three locations including downtown and Naperville), LUXBAR, Quartino Ristorante & Wine Bar, Gibsons ItaliaThe BOATHOUSE Orlando, Hugo’s Frog Bar & Chop House (on behalf of Rivers Casino), Bazaar Meat Chicago, Bar MarCafé By The River and Chi Sox Bar & Grill (on behalf of the Chicago White Sox).

For over 20 years, owners Hugo Ralli and Steve Lombardo have strived to become the city’s finest seafood restaurant, Hugo’s, as a destination for premier east and west coast oysters, crudos, frog legs, lobster and seasonal fish and shellfish.

Hugo’s seafood is delivered daily, earning The New York Times to praise “the fish could only be fresher if it swam in by itself.” 

Despite being in the middle of the country, it's not only possible, but customary, to get the daily fresh catch seafood here in numerous seafood restaurants. Notably, besides Hugo's, Chinn's in the northwest suburbs, one of the top 25 grossing restaurants in the US, posts the Bills of Lading airbills in the entrance showing all the fresh seafood flown in overnight from a half dozen or more coasts - Alaska, Hawaii, Florida, New England, Atlantic Coast, California, Seattle and so on. His nephew's seafood restaurant Chinn's Fishery Seafood, here in our hometown Lisle, IL did the same thing before closing at the height of the Covid shut-down.  As such, rather than getting the locale fresh catch from any one market, you have a broad selection from the fresh catch from a half dozen or more markets for a broad selection and variety. 

Over the years, I wrote about Chinn's and the daily specials sourced from around the world in numerous blogposts, that last one being Sunday, March 10, 2019 when I wrote, Nickle & Nickle Chardonnay for Chinns Seafood Dinner.

I was hesitant to feature and highlight the seafood at Hugo's, having had a bad experience there with the Hudson Valley scallops last year, but, tonight they redeemed themselves with a surefire winner with four out of four delectable seafood selections.  

Tonight, we had a broad selection of four fresh seafood selections for our entree choices - Walleye, Salmon, Crab and Sea Bass. Mine was a very pleasant surprise, exceeding my lofty expectations. 

I ordered the Pan Seared Walleye with Grilled Asparagus, Lemon Butter & Toasted Almonds.

I chose this dish, hoping it might be in the meunière style that is my favorite preparation. Many of my posts in these pages commemorate memorable dinners with delectable seafood and wine pairings. Forgive me as I obsess here, reliving several dinners featuring this preparation offering.

Notice the recurring theme of pairing these dishes with a full bodied round Napa Valley Chardonnay, an optimal wine and food pairing for enhancement of both.

My absolute favorite seafood selection was always Petrale Sole, or when available, the seasonally limited Sand Dabs, aka Rex Sole, with white wine, lemon butter meunière sauce. This is primarily only found in the San Francisco Bay and Monterey Bay central coast of California. 

For several years, I commuted regularly to Silicon Valley, during which time this was my go-to regular meal every trip - the best being from Scott's Seafood, adjacent our offices in Palo Alto. Second, was Scoma's in San Francisco on the wharf and across the bay in Sausalito.

Tonight's preparation reminded me of fond memories of that Petrale Sole served in with white wine, lemon butter meunière sauce, a delight and high praise, indeed.

My next favorite fresh seafood selection would be Dover Sole, prepared in a similar way. I have many great memories, and postings in these pages from Il Postino Ristorante Italiano in New York City and their Dover Sole preparation: June 19, 2018 - Cakebread Cellars Napa Chardonnay with Dover Sole at Il Postino NYC, and again ....  June 27, 2018 - Cakebread Cellars Napa Chardonnay with Dover Sole at Il Postino NYC, and again ... April 15, 2018 - Cakebread Cellars Napa Chardonnay at Il Postino NYC - a trifecta! 

And, Dover Sole here locally in Chicago - January 22, 2020 - Post UGCB Dinner with Dover Sole Rosebud Chicago; and again November 9, 2022 - California 2013 Duo BYOB with Dover Sole at Vistro Hinsdale.


Finally, I would say my near favorite seafood dish is Flounder, and once again one of my favorite and memorable eateries for such is in New York - October 24, 2019 - Eataly NYC Flounder Seafood Dinner, and October 23, 2016 -Eataly New York Wine Dine Options.
 
And, another favorite local east coast eatery where we were somewhat regulars over the years -January 28, 2020 - Pouilly-Fuisse, Chiles Valley Cabernet with Sautéed Flounder Francaise at Idylwild Grill in Falls Church, VA.

So it was, tonight's Pan Seared Walleye was reminiscent of those earlier memorable dinners.

As a starter we shared the Beet Salad - Golden & Red Beets, Spring Mix, Shaved Fennel, Orange Segments, Goat Cheese, Candied Hazlenuts with Citrus Vinaigrette.

Our other entree selections - 

Jumbo Lump Crab Cake - a small portion as she ordered the appetizer rather than the larger portion entree.


Pan Roasted Miso Marinated Chilean Sea Bass - Wild mushrooms, sweet peas, & soy reduction

Grilled Faroe Island Salmon - Roasted Sweet Potato Hash, Spinach, & Bacon Jam

For our wine pairing we had a premium Napa Valley Chardonnay, from the same producer that we had just the other evening. 

Far Niente Napa Valley Coombsville Estate Chardonnay 2020

Just the other evening we had at home from our cellar, the Nickel & Nickel Napa Valley Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay, from their single vineyard designated portfolio of labels. Tonight's selection is the flagship, estate bottled appellation bottling from the 'parent' winery producer Far Niente.

Far Niente is one of Napa Valley’s most historic wineries, founded in 1885 by John Benson. It closed during the Prohibition era in 1919. Sixty years later, the property was bought and restored by Gil Nickle who released the first vintage of Far Niente wine in the modern era in 1979 - this estate-bottled Napa Valley Chardonnay. It has been a namesake to the winery for over four decades ever since.

The grapes are grown in the Coombsville AVA, known for its more temperate climate and volcanic ash soils that give Far Niente’s Chardonnay its signature stone and tropical fruit flavors with a crushed rock minerality. The wine does not go through malolactic fermentation in the production process, which preserves the crisper malic acid, providing extra freshness on the palate and extending the wine’s longevity for years of drinking pleasure.

Far Niente Chardonnay is a blend of several superior Napa Valley estate (producer owned) vineyards located in Coombsville, down at the bottom of the valley, a cooler growing region nestled in the rolling countryside and protected by the hills east of the city of Napa. 

Coombsville offers the characteristic climate of Carneros, with less wind, along with deeper, well-drained gravelly loam and volcanic ash soils. The combination of these spectacular vineyards results in the subtle, tropical flavors, complex aromas and uncommon richness that have long been associated with Far Niente Chardonnay.

This is a marriage of fruit from the cooler, bay-influenced vineyards in southern Napa Valley, crafted to combine fragrant citrus blossom aromatics, rich fruit flavors and a silky finish to every occasion.

Winemaker notes - "Richly aromatic with notes of white fig, and citrus blossom, this captivating Chardonnay slowly builds on the palate, progressing from silky notes of honeydew, nectarine and lemon zest to a full finish supported by elegant, toasted oak. Crisp minerality and juicy acidity lift and support the generous fruit and provide the framework for graceful aging. This wine will continue to gain richness and complexity in the bottle and glass."

Pale straw colored, medium bodied, complex expressive rich sprites of minerality, acidity and hazelnut overshadow the subdued honeydew fruit notes. 

RM 90 points. 

This release was awarded 91 Points by Wine Advocate.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4070961

https://farniente.com/

https://twitter.com/farnientewinery

https://www.hugosfrogbar.com/

https://twitter.com/HugosFrog

https://twitter.com/unwindwine

Friday, November 3, 2023

BV Tapestry with Beef bourguignon

Beaulieu Vineyards (BV) Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve Bordeaux Blend, fabulous pairing with Beef bourguignon

Friday night dinner, Linda prepared a beef bourguignon with - sirloin steak with carrots, onions, rosemary and hot-house tomatoes, with sherry port wine, over linguini noodles. It was delicious, enhanced mightily by an aged vintage Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend. 

Beef bourguignon or bœuf bourguignon, also called beef Burgundy, and bœuf à la Bourguignonne, is a French beef stew braised in red wine, often red Burgundy, and beef stock, typically flavored with carrots, onions, garlic, and a bouquet garni, and garnished with pearl onions, mushrooms, and bacon. 

I love selecting a Blend over a single varietal wine as it adds breadth and complexity to complement the beef and savory vegetable and spice flavors. Indeed, the French have been perfecting their blending to produce complex elegant sophisticated wines to pair with and complement foods for over five hundred years!

Beaulieu Vineyards Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve Bordeaux Blend 2002

We hold a vertical collection of nearly two dozen vintages of this label dating back two and a half decades. It represents good value - QPR (Quality Price Ratio) in a Napa Valley sourced Bordeaux varietal blend. This is especially true when comparing this label to their Georges de Latour Reserve Cabernet which sells for twice the price, often with similar ratings and rankings. 

Beaulieu Vineyards (BV) ("Quelle beau lieu!" or "What a beautiful place.”) is one of the oldest, most storied estates and producers in Napa Valley, Its founding dates back to 1900 when Georges de Latour and his wife Fernande initially purchased a four-acre ranch with the vision of making Napa Valley wines that would rival those of their native France.

They expanded their land holdings over the next several decades, many of which are still part of the BV portfolio today. In 1903 they purchased 127 acres in Rutherford, which they named "BV Ranch No. 1." In 1910 another land purchase was made, known as "BV Ranch No. 2."

In 1923, Georges de Latour purchased the Fred Ewer Winery, a building that dates back to 1885. Its four original stone walls remain the core of today’s Beaulieu Vineyard winery in Rutherford sited along St Helena Highway 29, mainstreet of Napa Valley. This purchase increased Beaulieu’s production dramatically allowing Beaulieu Vineyard’s business to thrive and increase fourfold in the 1920s,

Since its first release in 1990, BV have produced Tapestry Reserve as a tribute to their French heritage and homage to the classic Bordeaux blends and Clarets. It is sourced from a selection of specific vineyard blocks of top-quality grapes that give Tapestry the combined attributes of terroir expression and a round, approachable tannin structure. Roughly half of the Cabernet Sauvignon was grown on the famous western benchland of the Rutherford American Viticultural Area (AVA) and the balance from the Calistoga, Oakville, and St Helena AVAs. The Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec are sourced exclusively from BV estate vineyards in Rutherford. Two styles of Cabernet Franc lend complexity and intrigue: one from cooler Sonoma Valley providing fresh acidity and a slight herbal character; the other from warmer Calistoga adding ripe and expressive red fruit notes. 

In 2010, legendary winemaker Michel Rolland joined Beaulieu Vineyard as a blending consultant on their reserve wines. 

I pulled a twenty-one year old 2002 vintage release from the cellar, 'Goldilocks' age, not too old, but not too young. It proved to be an ideal pairing with the hearty beef bourgogne dish, accentuating the enjoyment of both! 

My wine tasting notes index shows fourteen vintages of tasting notes of this label. It shows we tasted and I reported on this wine back in February 2006 when I wrote:

"Feb 2006 - Beaulieu Vineyards Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve 2002 - RM 92 WE 90 - Dark medium bodied, smooth easy drinking, Bordeaux blend showing loads of plum, cherry and currant fruit as well as vanilla spice notes from oak aging. Tasted at Indigo Restaurant in SPG.

At twenty-one years, the fill level, label (slightly stained and soiled), foil, and most importantly the cork were all still in ideal condition. 

While still very much in its drinking window, this was showing some diminution from age with the vibrant fruits just starting to give way to non-fruit flavors of earth and wood. Still, it was consistent with that earlier tasting. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, full round plum, black cherry and black currant fruits with notes of cassis, cedar, spice and toasted oak with a hint of dark mocha chocolate, on a moderate firm tannins finish. 

RM 90 points. 

This release was awarded 92 points by Wine & Spirits, 90 points by Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=198670

https://www.bvwines.com/

Tuesday, October 31, 2023

Nickel & Nickel Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

First look at Nickel & Nickel Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

We opened this full throttle Napa Chardonnay with home baked chicken breasts stuffed with feta cheese and spinach with roasted potatoes and corn for an ideal food and wine pairing.

This is from Nickel & Nickel, a subsidiary of the legendary ultra-premium producer Far Niente Winery and Vineyards. If you've visited Napa Valley, you passed their winery estate on St Helena Highway 29 in Oakville as you enter Napa Valley from the south. 

Nickel & Nickel was established by the partners of Far Niente in 1997 focused on producing single-vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from the appellation's most significant growing regions. Dedicated exclusively to producing 100 percent varietal, single-vineyard wines that best express the distinct personality of each vineyard, they expanded their portfolio to also produce single-vineyard Chardonnay, Merlot, and Syrah wines.

Nickel & Nickel focus on 100% varietal, single-vineyard designated wines, sourced from as many as seventeen different vineyards, primarily in Napa Valley, but now extended to include some sites in the Sonoma County Russian River Valley appellation

Their approach emphasizes selection of the very best vineyard locations and unique soil compositions required to make superior single-vineyard wines. Each Nickel & Nickel wine is a celebration of 'place' or terroir. It's amazing how such can reveal how vineyards only miles apart, but of the same grape varietal, yield wines of unique character and distinction.

This label release is 100% Chardonnay from the Truchard Vineyard located in the heart of Carneros AVA, prized for its rolling hills, sun exposure, and cool, breezy conditions that allow long, even ripening. Nickel & Nickel wines are produced from 14 select acres of this 270-acre vineyard, planted in 2007, composed of volcanic ash and rock with a southwestern exposure. The growing season tends to be long in this cooler area, allowing for fully mature fruit at harvest.

The Carneros region straddles the southernmost portions at the confluence of the Sonoma and Napa valleys, lying just north of the San Pablo Bay (an offshoot of the San Francisco Bay). There, the bay winds and fog, created when warm inland air meets cool sea air, keep temperatures relatively low, making this California wine region perfect for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. 

Indeed many of our favorite and many memorable wines are from Carneros vineyards from some of the most heralded producers. 

Nickel & Nickel Napa Valley Carneros Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

Winemaker Notes -  "Nickel & Nickel Truchard Chardonnay 2022 is a wine that stands out for its full-bodied and flavorful taste, thanks to its carefully selected grapes from the famous Truchard Vineyard in Napa Valley, California. Upon opening the bottle, the wine releases an enticing aroma of citrus blossom and melon, which will leave your senses longing for more. This is followed by a silky and creamy texture on the palate, which is perfectly balanced by the wine's vibrant acidity.'

"The flavors of pear, melon, and green apple dominate the palate, and the wine is complemented by subtle hints of toasted oak that add a unique touch to the wine. The wine finishes with a long and mouthwatering taste, which leaves a lasting impression. Whether you are an experienced wine enthusiast or just starting your journey, Nickel & Nickel Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 is a wine that can be appreciated by anyone who values quality and craftsmanship.'

"This golden-hued vintage strikes the most beautiful balance between freshness and tropical lushness. Aromas of lemon peel and melon captivate the nose, while silky pear, peach blossom, and melon flavors cascade across a palate that is at once creamy and lifted. The finish is lively and bright, with juicy acidity, whispers of lightly toasted oak, and a refreshing minerality."

Our first tasting of this just released 2022 vintage Chardonnay that we just acquired from our local merchant. We enjoyed it so much I went back and picked up a six pack of this wine to hold in our cellar for more quality enjoyable drinking. 

This vintage release has not yet been rated but the previous two vintage years it was rated 93 points and 95 points in 2019.

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, full round concentrated pear and apple notes with expressive sprites of mineral and roasted nut with hints of toasted oak on a full lingering bright acidic finish. 

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4763512

https://nickelandnickel.farniente.com/

https://twitter.com/NickelandNickel

Sunday, October 29, 2023

La Rioja Alta Viña Arana Rioja Reserva with BBQ

La Rioja Alta Viña Arana Rioja Reserva 2011

Stopping in our local independent wine merchant recently, proprietor Michael offered up some suggested wines to consider. Seeking to support our local merchant, I picked this up among several bottles for wine discovery and enjoyment. 

Finding this in the cellar in the section designated as 'ready to drink', I pulled this for casual sipping with Sunday evening carry out barbecue. I must admit, up until now when researching this wine to write up this blogpost, I didn't remember procuring this wine, or drinking another label from the same producer only six weeks ago. 

Notably, this wine exceeded my expectations for a simple pop and pour selection and only now realize this is the more modest middle tier label of the ultra premium label I had at son Ryan's last month when I posted this blog report. Such is the delight and enjoyment of paying attention and documenting the details of such tastings, to discover these relationships of different wines from a single producer, whether it be a different label, or different vintage.

In that previous tasting, as recorded reported in these pages, we tasted the La Rioja Alta "904 Selección Especial" Gran Reserva Rioja Tempranillo 2015. I found that label and a couple other ultra-premium gran reserva labels when researching this wine. This is the Reserva standard little brother label of those wines at a fraction of the price - current retail price of $32 vs $86 at local merchants. Being of the same varietals from the same vineyard sources, it has a similar profile but with less complexity, elegance and polish.

From that early September blogpost - Bodega (wine producer) La Rioja Alta dates back to 1890 and is one of the oldest and most traditional Rioja bodega whose range of wines is the most consistent, the most readily available, and among the most highly acclaimed.  

It was founded by five Riojan and Basque families who joined together to form Sociedad Vinicola de la Rioja Alta collective in the Haro Station district.

The company was formed with the merger of the Wineries of producer Don Alfredo Ardanza and La Rioja Alta in 1904, hence the 904 flagship label. Additional properties and subsequent brands were developed in 1940's, 1970's, 1988 and their centennial year 1990. A new winery was built and dedicated in 2000.

Today, La Rioja Alta is one of four brands of wines produced from four winery estates that farm over 2000 acres of vineyards in Northern Spain, each marketed under its own distinct brand.

La Rioja is in the northern Basque region of Spain, an hour south of the Atlantic coastal port of Bilbo, just north of the village or Haro, along the banks of the Ebro River. 

The area La Rioja is known for its production of Rioja DOCa (Spain's version Appellation control system such as AVA in the US, AOC in France, and DOCG in Italy) wines.

La Rioja Alta Viña Arana Rioja Reserva 2011 

This is a blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Mazuelo estate grown from vineyards in Rodezno and Labastida.

Tempranillo is the primary leading red variety in Spain’s most celebrated wine region. Tempranillo from Rioja is commonly simply labeled, “Rioja.” 

Rioja wines are typically a blend of fruit from its three sub-regions: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental, although specific sub-region (zonas), village (municipios) and vineyard (viñedo singular) wines can now be labeled. 
 
Rioja Alta and Alavesa, from the highest elevations, are considered to be the source of the brightest, most elegant fruit, while grapes from the warmer and drier, Rioja Oriental, produce wines with deep color, great body and richness.


This Tempranillo Viña Arana Rioja is a Reserva labeled containing select fruit from the vintage that was matured in used, neutral American oak barrels for three years. 

This label release was awarded 93 points by James Suckling and 91 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate. 

150,000 bottles were produced so this should be widely available, easy to obtain.

Winemaker Notes

"Lovely, deep cherry red, with a marked pink rim. The nose stands out for its aromatic intensity, with notes of ripe dark fruit leading to an elegant range of balsamic notes, tobacco leaves, caramel, vanilla and chocolate. This new Viña Arana stands out in the mouth for its freshness and balanced acidity. Soft tannins and a pleasant structure provide an elegantly joyful mouthfeel. Over time, the bottle will endow it with an elegant, complex bouquet."

 At a dozen years, the fill level, label, foil and cork were in pristine condition. This is probably at the apex of its drinking window and ready to drink, not likely to improve, but rather will start to diminish in a few years further aging. 

Bright ruby colored, medium full bodied, bright expressive rich round flavorful red fruit flavors with notes of balsamic, tobacco leaf and hints of vanilla and cocoa with moderate, smooth tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 90 points.

Wednesday, October 25, 2023

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva at Tuscany Bistro Destin

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva at Tuscany Bistro Restaurant Destin/Sandestin

Visiting our favorite vacation destination The Cove, Destin, Florida vacation rental home, we're working through the long list of restaurant options in the Destin, Florida area. Tonight, we dined at Tuscany Bistro in Miramar Beach, Destin/Sandestin.

Chef and owner, Guglielmo Ianni, has been preparing authentic Northern Italian cuisine there since 1976, starting out in Chicago and Wisconsin before moving to the Emerald coast in 1991.

Guglielmo specializes in seafood and pasta dishes with one of his signature entrees the whole fish of the day; locally caught fresh red snapper.

Guglielmo Ianni says, “My mother, Adalgisa, gave me the inspiration to pursue culinary talents, which led me to study in Italy and compile Mama’s recipes. Now, I am passing my talents on to the third generation, my daughter Theresa, continuing the Ianni family traditions of preparing authentic Italian cuisine for you to enjoy. For all of our dishes, we only use the freshest ingredients, choice meats, fresh seafood, and garden vegetables. We are fine dining at its best, but we consider the restaurant to be casual, yet comfortable, with a quaint touch of Italy. We want you to feel like part of our family.”
 
From their classic Italian Menu supplemented by local seafood offerings, Linda ordered one of the house specialties, Lasagna Al Forno - Bolognese, ricotta, parmesan, and mozzarella cheese. It was delicious. 
 

I ordered the Vitello Parmesan, a benchmark dish that serves as a basis for comparison from one Italian eatery to the next. Guglielmo's preparation is better than average for this favorite offering.

 
From the somewhat limited but carefully selected winelist, I ordered a Sangiovese based Brunello di Montalcino, one of our favorite varietals for pairing with zesty Italian pasta cuisine. It proved to be a perfect complement accentuating the enjoyment of both the wine and the food for a delightful dining experience.
 
 https://tuscanybistrodestin.com/


Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Sangiovese 2016

This is from Tenuta Caparzo wine estate/producer in Tuscany in the Montalcino region known for its signature Brunello di Montalcino ‘Vigna La Casa’. 

The name Carpazo is taken from the Latin ‘Caput Arsum’, meaning ‘a place touched by sun’, and Caparzo, derived from “Ca’ Pazzo” as shown on some ancient maps of the area. 

Tenuta Caparzo was founded in the late 1960’s by a group of friends who bought an old ruin with vineyards in Montalcino and subsequently renovated and modernized the farm estate and replanted new vineyards. 

The recent history of Caparzo dates back to the dawning of Brunello di Montalcino at the end of the 1960s, when a group of friends with a fondness for Tuscany purchased an old ruin with vineyards at Montalcino. They set upon renovating and modernising the facilities and planted new vineyards and, not long after, Caparzo began to make a name for itself producing estate wines.

In 1998, Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini, owner of the notable neighbor Altesino estate and brand purchased Tenuta Carpazo and integrated the property and operations with the help of her son Igino and daughter Alessandra elevating the estate to another level. Combining tradition with innovation, the Angelini family produce high-quality wines year on year, always with an emphasis on selecting the best fruit from the best plots.

Caparzo covers an overall surface area of nearly 500 acres with 220 covered by vineyards, distributed over different hillsides around the borough of Montalcino. The vineyards are at a heights ranging from 720 to 985 feet above sea level. The soils ranges between sandy-clay, shale-clay (marl), shale-renaceous rich in skeleton, and sandy-stony. The exposure of the vineyards, the nature of the lands and the microclimates of the areas give fullness, age-ability and character to the Caparzo wines.

Located southwest of Chianti, Montalcino came into its own in the late 1880s when local producer,Biondi-Santi, discovered a Sangiovese clone in his vineyard that was darker in colour than the rest. Its colour, however, was not its only attribute. It produced a wine with notable body, structure and length. He named it ‘brunello' meaning 'little dark one'. 

This grape's genetic properties along with Montalcino's relatively temperate climate combine to create a wine stylistically different to that of more northerly Chianti. They are usually released approximately 5 years after the vintage following 2 to 4 years ageing in wood. The designation of Riserva indicates a wine usually produced with more concentrated grapes than the traditional cuvée and requires a minimum of one additional year of ageing. Today, Montalcino wines have become one of the most sought after appellations in the Tuscan region. 

Caparzo's Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is only produced in the finest vintages and from grapes selected personally by winemaker Massimo Bracalente. It is a certified DOCG wine. It was first produced in 1980 and has shown to have the capacity to age for up to 40 years. 

This Caparzo Riservarelease was constructed combining fruit from the estate’s original vineyard in the far north of Montalcino, with La Casa on the Montosoli hill, as well as Il Cassero and La Caduta which are in the south to southwest of the denomination.

Winemaker Notes - Ruby, tending towards garnet with age. Penetrating on the nose with ample and very complex nose with echoes of wild berry fruit. Dry, warm, solid, harmonious, combining delicacy and austerity, and persistent. 

This label release was awarded 95 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Decanter and Wine Spectator, 93 points by Vinous, and 92 points by Wine Enthusiast.

2,000 cases were made, 500 cases imported. 

It showed dark inky purple color, medium full body with concentrated structured red currant and black berry fruits with notes of savory herbs and clove spice, ash, earth with hints of pepper with silky fine grained tannins on the tongue coated finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4199997

http://www.caparzo.com/index-eng.html# 

https://tuscanybistrodestin.com/

Thursday, October 19, 2023

Master Sommelier curated winelist at Auburn U Culinary School Restaurant

Master Sommelier Thomas Price curated winelist at Auburn U Culinary School Restaurant

Enroute to a getaway at The Cove, Destin, Florida vacation rental home, we stopped in Auburn, AL to visit an investment property on the campus of Auburn University where we dined at the 1856 Residence Culinary School fine dining restaurant.

The Wine Spectator recognized 1856–Culinary Residence restaurant, named after the year of the university’s founding, is an upscale teaching restaurant sited on College Avenue directly across from campus in the new Tony & Libba Rane Culinary Science Center, home of the Horst Schulze School of Hospitality Management.

The restaurant, opened in the summer of 2022, is the flagship of the four story Rane Culinary Science Center at the university and integrates classrooms and laboratories with a restaurant, a coffee roaster and café, a boutique hotel, bars, the rooftop garden, and other real-world hospitality services.

The Culinary experience is part of the Horst Schulze School of Hospitality Management.program which includes three pillars - Hospitality Management, Event Management and Culinary Studies. The working restaurant operations offers students immersive hands-on training in all aspects of the front and back of the house. 

1856 – Culinary Residence offers patrons a unique dining experience with stylish modern architecture, the dining room adjacent the open kitchen and bar, and also includes a view into the wine cellar with its two story wine wall, and a private dining room between the working kitchen and cellar. 

The 1856 restaurant operates a la carte lunch and a seven-course tasting menu at dinner.

Academy students staff the restaurant under the guidance of one or more Chefs in Residence, a position that rotates each year. Each year, an acclaimed chef works alongside the Ithaka Hospitality Partners team as well as Auburn University faculty and staff to create a unique restaurant concept, providing a one-of-a-kind, ever-changing culinary experience for students and restaurant guests alike. 

They boast the country’s first tasting-menu-only teaching restaurant that offers a unique and elevated experience where education meets experiential dining. The multi-course meal at the 1856 restaurant delivers a gourmet pleasure for diners while providing educational lessons for the Auburn University students who prepare and serve the food getting hands-on experience, learning the myriad details of running a restaurant. A chef in residence, which changes annually, oversees how fine dining and the classroom intersect at the restaurant.

The presiding Chef in Residence is Ford Fry who founded Rocket Farm Restaurants in 2007 and currently oversees a portfolio of 23 restaurants in Atlanta, Charlotte, Nashville, Houston, and Cary, NC. Rocket Farm Restaurants includes some of the South’s most popular concept establishments including Beetlecat, St. Cecilia, The Optimist, Superica, La Lucha and State of Grace. While the concepts each have their own identity, they share a commitment to their respective communities and to serving exceptional food made with local ingredients and attention to detail.  

One of the highlights of dining at 1856 – Culinary Residence or participating in institutional programs is The Master Sommelier in Residence who designs and curates the wine program. The presiding wine director and instructor is Master Sommelier Thomas Price’s who has crafted a 650-label, Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence–winning program featuring wines primarily from France, Spain, Italy, California and Oregon. 

The current Master Sommelier, Thomas Price, spent the last 35 years working in some of Seattle’s most prominent restaurants, including his own. Shortly after obtaining his Master Sommelier certificate in 2012, Price joined Jackson Family Fine Wines as National Director of Wine Education, in addition to working with Auburn University’s Hospitality Management program as a visiting sommelier over the last eight years. 

During our visit, we had the pleasure of meeting Thomas who was gracious and hospitable, generous with his time to discuss the program, the wine selections from the Wine Spectator award winning winelist, their regions and producers, and several topics of oenology and mutual, shared interests and experiences.

Throughout the meal and our visit, we were hosted and served by a student as well as a full time professional server who also mentors, coaches and supervises students in all aspects of the front of the house operations. 

For our dining pleasure we ordered from the 1856 menu the wedge salad, starters and then entrees, with an accompanying wine selection. 

For our starters I had the Chicken Liver Mousse pate' with stone fruit on Brioche Toast, and Linda had the Marcel Bread with Garlic Herb Buer, Whipped Ricotta, Olives, Prosciuto and EVOO.

For her entree, Linda the Gnudi pasta with Pesto, Pine Nuts, Parmesan, Roop Basil and Evoo.


 Master Chef Ford Fry calls the Gnudi “a big umami flavor bomb.” It is house-made ricotta cheese seasoned and rolled into balls that are dipped in egg and buried in flour. That forms a shell when the gnudi is boiled. The cheese oozes out when the orbs are sliced. The sauce – sometimes brown butter, and other times a vinaigrette – features truffles.

For my entree, I ordered the Flounder Fish N' Chips - Crispy NC Flounder, Malt Vinegar Aioli, Garlic Oil and rice-Cooked Fries andwith pomme frits.

For our wine selection we drank the Evenstad Reserve Chardonnay from Domaine Serene. 

Domaine Serenc Evenstad Reserve Dundee Hills Chardonnay 2018

This is a producer we know well, one of our favorites and one of the few we collect of Oregon wines and Pinot Noir. We hold this same Evenstad Reserve branded label Pinot Noir going back a dozen vintages. We've seen but never tasted their Chardonnay and were eager to do so, especially in this idyllic setting. Having tried it and enjoyed it immensely, we'll be sure to pick some up as soon as we return home.

In discussions with wine director Master Sommelier Thomas Price about this selection he raved about Oregon Chardonnays and the collaborative partnership the Auburn school enjoys with this producer.

The ‘Evenstad Reserve’ Chardonnay showcases the art of blending select barrels from estate vineyard sites in the Oregon Willamette Valley Dundee Hills AVA. Three of the seven Domain Serene Dundee Hills vineyards comprising a total of 150 acres of vines are planted to Chardonnay, in addition to Pinot Noir, which produce highest quality fruit from the combination of Dijon clone vines, Jory soil and the high elevation of the Dundee Hills estates.

Winemaker notes - "The 2018 vintage of this acclaimed wine incorporates the best select fruit of each vineyard into the compelling blend. An enticing tropical medley of kiwi and yellow peach act as the melody, with high notes of white flower and fresh linen. The oak treatment is flawlessly integrated, with a lingering minerality and salinity completing the symphony. This wine will certainly deserve a place in the cellar of the discerning collector of fine Chardonnays."

This vintage release was awarded 96 points by James Suckling, 95 Points "Editor's Choice" by Wine Enthusiast and 93 points by Wine Advocate. It was Ranked #87 in Wine Enthusiast Top 100 Cellar Selections of 2020.

Golden straw colored, medium to full-bodied with creamy texture, complex concentrated pear, white peach and yellow apple fruits with notes of honeydew and wet stone and hints of citrus, hazelnut and bit of butterscotch on a crisp acidic lingering finish. Delicious.

RM 94 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3629925

https://www.domaineserene.com/

https://auburn1856.com/

Wednesday, October 18, 2023

Kistler Sonoma Mtn Chardonnay at Cotton Row Huntsville

Kistler Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay at Cotton Row Restaurant Huntsville

Enroute to our favorite getaway at The Cove, Destin, Florida vacation rental home, we stopped in Madison/Huntsville, AL to visit an investment property. Staying over the night, we dined at Cotton Row Restaurant, downtown Huntsville

Arguably one of the more highly acclaimed restaurants in Huntsville, Cotton Row sits on the southwest corner of the Courthouse Square in a historic three-story brick building built in 1821 along the cotton exchange, from which it derives its name.

Cotton Row is the creation of Chef James Boyce and wife Suzan. James started his culinary career in New York City at venerable Le Cirque, where he worked for six years under the tutelage of Daniel Boulud. While working in New York, Boyce studied at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, graduating with top honors. 

In 1990, Boyce moved west to Phoenix, where he worked at The Phoenician with Mary Elaine’s former chef de cuisine, Alex Stratta. After five years there he moved to Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas as chef de cuisine at Palace Court before moving to Loews Coronado Bay Resort as executive chef in 1995. While heading culinary operations for Loews, he made a name for himself as one of Southern California’s leading chefs, earning critical acclaim with a variety of awards. James Boyce was tapped to be the anchor of Studio when it opened in 2003 where he earned a second Mobil Five-Star award.

In 2008 he and wife Suzan moved to Huntsville and opened Cotton Row featuring fine American cuisine with strong Southern influences. In 2014, Cotton Row was awarded Wine Spectator's Best of Award of Excellence for its extensive well crafted wine list. They won it again several times from 2015 through 2020, however they don't appear to be currently so recognized. 

The recognition is given for "offering a wine list of typically 350 or more quality selections with significant vintage depth or superior breadth in one or more major wine regions."

Wine Spectator identified Cotton Row's "wine strengths as California and Bordeaux."

Their website speaks of their wine cellar that houses the restaurant’s collection of nearly 5,000 bottles of 300 different selections in the Cedar Pipe Cellar dining room that can seat sixteen for special dinners. 

It is written that the Boyces own three restaurants in Huntsville -- Cotton Row, Commerce Kitchen and Pane e Vino Pizzeria, and Galley and Garden Restaurant in Birmingham. Both Cotton Row Restaurant in Huntsville and Galley and Garden in Birmingham received the distinctive Best of Award of Excellence, the only two in Alabama to be so recognized in 2017. 

Cotton Row has four dining areas, an outdoor streetside patio, inside adjacent the bar, intimate stylish warm comfortable dining areas to the rear with cushioned bench seating along both walls, and a private dining room in the wine cellar.


The rear dining area is highlighted with an intriguing large industrial strength vault safe door (below), presumably from the legacy cotton exchange, or perhaps from a follow on era as a bank.

From the menu I ordered as a starter the Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras. The foie gras was small from my experience and was served on a rather strange somewhat tasteless waffle that continued the breakfast theme with what appeared to be simple maple syrup drizzle for a somewhat disappointing attempt at creativity, or, as if they ran out of or forgot to mix in the berry compote.


Linda ordered the Cornmeal Crusted Apalochiola Oysters as her starter and entree. Once again, the serving was rather modest.

For my entree I ordered the Roasted Alaskan Halibut, served with a gnocchi, and the chef's selection grilled scallops enhancement. The tab reflected the two grilled scallops were a twenty dollar up-charge which would've been pricey had they been perfect, but in the end was somewhat egregious since they were less than stellar being less than fresh and unimaginative in preparation and serving.

From the winelist I selected an ulra-premium Kistler Sonoma Chardonnay as an accompaniment and wine pairing with dinner. This is the third different label Chardonnay from this producer we have ordered in restaurants in recent memory. Most recently - Kistler Les Noisetiers Sonoma Coast Chardonnay at Emerils Coastal

Kistler Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay 2019

Our awkward dining experience continued over discussion about the label and source designation of this wine. I commented to the server that I half expected the notation on the wine list to be a mis-print, expecting a Sonoma Coast or Sonoma Valley, other appellation vineyard specific designation, knowing that Kistler offer a dozen different Chardonnays. I admit I'd never heard of or didn't recall Sonoma Mountain as a designation and asked where it was. The server didn't know and deferred, but confidently stated Suzan, wine director was a sommelier and would undoubtedly know the answer.  

We were then approached by a young lady purportedly the general manager who advised us that Sonoma Mountain was in California. Of course it was, I exclaimed but where? My premise was that Sonoma Mountain must be the western side of the Mayacamas Range that separates or divided Napa Valley to the east, from Sonoma Valley to the west. If that were to be the case, then how is it distinguished from Diamond Mountain at the north end of the range, Spring Mountain in the middle, and Mount Veeder on the southern end? 

Her response was that it was in Southern California!?! I was a bit flummoxed from the response and politely responded that no, Sonoma County is in Northern California. I further explained my quandary and query, as to the location of Sonoma Mountain - to the north near Fisher Vineyards?, Or in the middle near Chateau St Jean or Kenwood? Or to the south, past Kunde, down near Arrowood? - all Sonoma Valley properties up against the western side slopes of the Mayacamas Range. 

She departed to consult with the Sommelier again and returned to advise us that it "appellates" as Sonoma Mountain. I took that to infer that it is in itself an Appellation in Sonoma. With my numerous travels to and studies of Sonoma County and its numerous, varied appellations, it made sense, however I had never heard of or seen such, and still wasn't sure where it was. Perhaps in response to my apparent dismay at the use of 'appellate' as a verb, or an adjective, she repeated it again.

I expected more from an upscale restaurant serving an ultra-premium label from an Wine Spectator Award wine-list - especially when sincerely inquiring about this, the most expensive (white wine) bottle on offer from such list.

To close out the matter, the following day, ironically and fortuitously, we had the distinct pleasure and honor of meeting Master Sommelier Thomas Price, Master Sommelier in Residence at 1856 Culinary Residence in Auburn, where we dined for lunch. When asked about the existence of and location or Sonoma Mountain, he promptly and confidently advised us it is on the eastern wall of Sonoma Valley near or at Kenwood. Alas, that makes sense and answered the question. Interestingly, it does not correlate to the adjacent or opposing Napa Mountains on the east side of the range as it is on the opposite western side of the Sonoma Valley. Lesson learned. 

Forgive me for this diatribe but I had to share it, and get it off my chest - indeed these pages are all about sharing our wine and dining experiences.

In retrospect upon further research the Sonoma Mountains cover approximately 130 square miles (83,200 acres, about 8% of the County). According to James R. Allen, MS, PG Geology, Earth and Environmental Sciences, California State University, East Bay, "Actually, it should be called the Sonoma Mountains, a 25-mile long ridge bordered on the east by Sonoma Valley, on the west by the Petaluma River Valley and the Cotati/Santa Rosa Plain and on the south by San Pablo Bay. The north/south-oriented ridge is only about nine miles wide on its east/west axis".

The Sonoma Mountains range separates the Sonoma Creek watershed from the Petaluma River and Tolay Creek watersheds.

Sonoma Mountain anchors the Western boundary wall of Sonoma Valley, opposite the Mayacamas Range that forms the eastern wall. It is the center of the coastal range that separates Sonoma Valley from the coastal Sonoma County and borders pretty much the totality of the Sonoma Valley, from the town of Sonoma in the south up to Glen Ellyn. 

To the north, adjacent the town of Kenwood is the northern coastal range consisting of Bennet Mountain on the eastern slope, and Taylor Mountain on the western facing slope. 

The south range, from the town of Sonoma south to Sears Point is bounded by the lesser predominant Wildcat Mountain. 

Confusion or bewilderment about Sonoma County wine appellations is understandable given Sonoma County has no less than eighteen American Viticulture Areas (AVAs), federally designated grape-growing regions that each reflect the wide variety of climate and soil conditions in the County.

The difference in climate and soil (terroir), means that cooler climate grapes grow well in certain regions and in others warm climate grapes are more suitable. The large production of the County means that each AVA is significant in its own right. 

So, not to be confused with Sonoma Valley AVA, or Sonoma Coast AVA, or Northern Sonoma AVA, Sonoma Mountain gives its name to the Sonoma Mountain AVA.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/08/napa-sonoma-wine-experience-2017.html

We visted and toured some of the remote regions of Sonoma County from the coast to Sonoma Valley during our Napa / Sonoma Wine Experience 2017.

That was our first trip to focus on exploring and discovering the more remote appellations of Sonoma County, as a discovery and learning trip, setting the stage for further in-depth immersive studies in the future. We stayed the first few days in the Pacific coastal town of Bodega Bay.

That week we focused on, visited and toured the Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Green Valley and Dry Creek Valley appellations, as well as Sonoma Valley. This set the stage, so watch for more immersive studies on these areas in the future, now that we have the big picture and understanding of navigating the region.

We discovered some new producers or producer's sites in the remote Sonoma areas - Gary Farrell and Porter Creek Vineyards and Winery. Lastly, we also visited Krug in Sonoma County, and  Chateau St Jean and Kunde in Sonoma Valley before venturing on to Napa Valley. 

As I wrote in my posts about that trip, Sonoma County is vast, covering almost 60,000 acres of vineyards, with a broad diverse range of terrior and microclimates. Sonoma County, reaches all the way to the Pacific Coast from the west side of the Mayacamas Mountain range that forms the eastern boundary of the Sonoma Valley and separates Sonoma Valley from Napa Valley. Sonoma County consists of, at that time, 16 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs, or appellations) – each with its own distinctive characteristics. There are more than 400 wineries in the region.

The western Sonoma County Sonoma Coast area is emerging as the source of 'cool climate' Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.

Citing Wine.com, a valuable source of wine information - "Defined more by altitude than geographical outline, the Sonoma Mountain appellation occupies elevations between 400 and 1,200 feet on the northern and eastern slopes of the actual Sonoma Mountain and is part of the greater Sonoma Valley appellation. The mountain reaches 2,400 feet; its hills separate the cooling winds of Petaluma Gap from the Sonoma Valley.'

"On a cooler western flank, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah enjoy a great deal of success. Vineyards on its warmer, eastern side, interspersed with heavily forested areas, tend to include Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, and Syrah. Given its complexity of topography and mesoclimates, Sonoma Mountain excels with a wide range of grape varieties."

The peak of Sonoma Mountain defines part of the boundary of another such region, the Sonoma Coast AVA. Wines made from grapes grown on its western and southern slopes qualify for the Sonoma Coast appellation, but wines made from grapes grown on its eastern and northern slopes do not.

The Sonoma Mountain AVA (American Viticultural Area) centered on the Sonoma Mountain in the Sonoma Mountains includes the town of Glen Ellen, California and is nearly surrounded by the Sonoma Valley AVA. The area is known for the diverse micro-climates that occur on exposed hillsides and shaded drainages, and as such is home to production for a wide range of grape varieties beyond Chardonnay, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Zinfandel.

Meanwhile, the Sonoma Mountain (appellation) Chardonnay from Kistler is another vineyard or appellation designated label in their broad portfolio. Kistler Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay has been produced since 2009. It ranked fourth for number of awards won among wines from this region: the The TEXSOM International Wine Awards awarded the 2021 vintage Gold and the 2019 vintage Gold Medal.

Kistler is widely considered one of the New World’s greatest Chardonnay producers.

Winery note: "The Kistler plantings on Sonoma Mountain, situated on a hillside bench perfectly suited for growing world class Chardonnay, are interlaced with the rare combination of red volcanic and fine grained chalky soils. The vineyards are planted to California Heritage clones that were selected specifically over the last 30 years to ripen to our balanced wine standards. They are some of the oldest Chardonnay vineyards in Sonoma County. When coupled with the selections in the vineyard the textbook growing conditions afford a wine that is decidedly Sonoma Mountain in character. Annually some of our earliest vineyard pickings each year, this is a wine driven by a grounded, focused mineral core yet lifted by striking ethereal tones of vibrant light fruit raised at elevation."

Once again, rather general and broad representation of the source of, or location of the vineyard site/sources.

Founded in 1978, Kistler Vineyards is a small, family-owned and operated winery specializing in the production of Burgundian style Chardonnay and limited amounts of Pinot Noir. Grapes are estate grown and purchased from vineyards in Sonoma County. In 1992, Kistler Vineyards moved all production to its Vine Hill Road Vineyard in the Russian River Valley.

Winemaker's notes: “The Kistler plantings on Sonoma Mountain, situated on a hillside bench perfectly suited for growing world class Chardonnay, are interlaced with the rare combination of red volcanic and fine grained chalky soils. The vineyards are planted to California Heritage clones that were selected specifically over the last 30 years to ripen to our balanced wine standards. They are some of the oldest Chardonnay vineyards in Sonoma County. When coupled with the selections in the vineyard the textbook growing conditions afford a wine that is decidedly Sonoma Mountain in character. Annually some of our earliest vineyard pickings each year, this is a wine driven by a grounded, focused mineral core yet lifted by striking ethereal tones of vibrant light fruit raised at elevation.”

From Kistler ...  "Kistler is a single clone chardonnay house... One heritage Californian selection of Chardonnay planted across fifteen vineyards, from Carneros to Sonoma Valley, to the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. From those sites we produce eleven vineyard designate Chardonnays. We are wholly dedicated to the ideal of wines of site. It’s an unparalleled approach in the new world."

Winemaker notes on this label: "Bottled since 1986. Just shy of 1800 feet in elevation, in a small bowl on the western edge of the Mayacama mountains lies the original Kistler planting. Forty-year old dry farmed vines grow in deep red volcanic soils, producing a wine with an intense sense of its mountain heritage. The Kistler Vineyard Chardonnay has delicate and bright lifted stone fruit and faintly floral like tones, like its McCrea cousin, yet also a firmer nature with a stronger core and added layers of texture."

So, their description of the site fits my initial recollection of its location. It is repeated or elaborated by numerous wine pundits and merchants. 

Wine pundit Natalie MacLean, author/producer of North America's most popular online wine and food pairing classes, publisher of two Amazon Best Books of the Year on wine, describes Kistler Chardonny. "Kistler 2019 Chardonnay is a single-vineyard Burgundian-style Chard with great acidity for food. Kistler Vineyards has been producing Chardonnay since 1978 with this example from their estate vineyard in the Mayacamas Range. The wine is unfined and unfiltered, dry, medium-bodied and creamy with ripe apple, pear, hazelnut and toasty oak spice flavours on a long finish." She gave this wine 94 points.

Astor Wine Merchants - At 1800 ft, this is the original planting of Kistler Vineyards. On the western edge of the Mayacamas Mountains, these sturdy, 30 + year old vines yield an evocative Chardonnay, dense in texture, yet delicate on the palate. Waves of apple and pear confit float over fine acidity. A classic in every way and fine for roasted onions, baked gratins, and buttery poultry. The vines are dry farmed in the deep red volcanic ash of the region. 

The notable wine merchant K&L, in Redwood City, offers this citation of this wine: "An iconic wine from one of the most legendary producers in California. Meticulous detail goes into the farming and winemaking. Fruit is from some of the most highly regarded vineyards in the region, many of which are farmed entirely by Kistler themselves."

In any event, this was golden straw colored medium-bodied, rich, full and round yet smooth and elegant with ripe apple, pear and lemon curd notes accented by caramel, nut and toast flavours, silky smooth, dry and long on the palate. 

RM 94 points. 

This release was awarded 94 points by Natalie McLean. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3930636

For the dessert course we shared the Creme' Brulee. Unsolicited, Linda made a point that the accompanying blueberries were not fresh, but rather were dry and bordering being wilted, listless and tastleless.

Linda orderd a Sambucca, her customary aperitif, which she noted was served sans the customary traditional coffee bean. 


As a matter of comparison with the Sambucca, I inquired about the French manifestation of anise, anisette, licorice liquor - seeking a Pastis. The server brought out and offered the Fernet-Branca (shown). Having never heard of or tried such, I ordered one. It was awful - not blatantly offensive such as a Chicago style Malort, but bordering on unpleasant in any event. 

 C'est la vie. A fitting close to the evening. 

https://www.kistlervineyards.com/

https://www.kistlervineyards.com/?animation=viewed

http://cottonrowrestaurant.com/

https://twitter.com/chefjamesboyce