Saturday, July 7, 2012

Summer-cookout-2k-Bordeaux_and_like_flight

Summer grilled steak cookout highlights 2k Bordeaux flight, Napa Bordeaux Blends and Select Whites

Terry and Lyle hosted our mid-summer wine dinner at their pied-à-terre in Chicago west loop. Lyle grilled steaks on the deck and Terry fixed an assortment of dishes including salads and potato casserole.  The antipasto included selected artisan cheeses and olives including tapenade and a crab dip salad with assorted biscuits and breads.

The wine theme featured a flight of 2000 vintage Bordeaux complimented by California Napa Valley Meritage (Bordeaux-like) Cabernet Sauvignon blends. The evening was kicked off with a pair of Champagnes and closed with a pair of Graham Vintage Ports to accompany chocolate cake, fresh berries and whipped cream topping.



A selection of artisan cheeses included an aged Gouda, Bellavitano with pepper, and three fine aged cheddars - one, three and five years old from Fair Oaks Farms in Northern Indiana.

The cheeses were complimented by the a selection of white wines - vintage Brut Champagne, a Vouvray and a Dry Riesling from Finger Lakes region in New York.


John brought two Champagnes, a Paul Bara Grand Cru Spécial Club Brut Bouzy Champagne 2002 and Henri Giraud Esprit Brut Rose NV.

The Paul Bara was initally yeasty but this melted off to reveal nut, apple, pear and peach flavors with medium bodied, medium acidity. Thirteen Cellartracker reviews averaged 91 points with a medium 90.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=558661  

The Henri Giraud Esprit was dark salmon, almost copper colored, started a slight bit yeasty and this too melted off to reveal a hint of smoke accenting the strawberry and hint of citrus notes with medium body and medium acidity. This received average 90 and medium of 89 points from seven Cellartracker reviewers. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1169585

Two other whites were tasted to accompany the first course - Ernie brought  a Chateau Moncontour Vouvray 2002 and L & I brought Ravines Finger Lakes New York Dry Riesling 2010.  We'll be touring the Finger Lakes region in early August so I sought out a selection from there that could be sourced locally.  
 
The Moncontour was light lemon colored, medium bodied with hint of citrus, peach and pear notes.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=42695

The Finger Lakes region is not well known beyond the East Coast but this Dry Riesling 2009 label made Wine Spectator's list of Top 100 exciting wines for 2011 (Nov. 21, 2011).

This tasted almost like a Viognier with weak tea color, medium body - mineral and crushed stone character with subdued citrus, pear and apple notes on a very dry pronounced acid finish. Medium and Average review of 89 points from sixteen Cellartracker reviewers including me.

http://ravineswine.com/

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1162835

Prior to the Bordeaux flight we tasted Flora Springs Trilogy Napa Valley Red Blend 2008. With dark inky color, this exhibited full bodied forward black and blue berry and black currant fruits with a layer of mocha and hints of sweet oak - a pleasant, very tasty, simple easy drinking wine. As indicated by the three grape leaves on the label, Trilogy is a blend of  79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 2.5% Petit Verdot. It was aged for 22 months in 100% new French Oak.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1091239

We've enjoyed Trilogy since the 80's and still hold vintages dating back to 1990 and 1991 in our cellar. This one is as forward and flavorful as any I remember however perhaps not as complex as some vintages.


 The flight of 2000 vintage Bordeaux was poured during dinner, consisted of St Emilion, Margaux, Pessac-Leognan, and St. Julian appellations, tasted in that order.

Clos de L'Oratoire St Emilion Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe 2000

Full-bodied, round, ripe black currants, blackberry and black cherry fruits with hints of herbs and spice on a silky smooth tannin finish.

92 points Robert Parker; 92 points Wine Spectator; 90 points Stephen Tanzer; RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6340




Chateau Lascombs Margaux Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe 2000

Medium-bodied, deep ruby/purple-colored,  upon opening a huge bouquet of floral and perfume permeate the air -  flavors of violet, blackberry, black currant, and black cherry fruits with a layer of vanilla and smooth polished tannins on a a long, berry, vanilla soft oak finish. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6403



90 points Robert Parker:  89 Wine Spectator; Steven Tanzer 87-90; RM 91 points.



 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Leognan Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe 2000

We discovered this wine through their collaboration with Napa Valley's Darioush. We were honored to attend a gala wine dinner at Everest Room in Chicago co-hosted by proprieter Dominic Laborie of Domaine Chevalier and  Darius and Shaptar Khaledi of Darioush. We hold a vertical of this wine starting with the 94 vintage through the 2000 which we presented here.

This was the most subdued of the reds, perhaps in a closed period. classic Bordeaux character with musty earthy leather and tobacco notes that masked the black berry fruit, cassis and spice notes with a moderate firm tannin finish.

Average of 90.8 points with a medium 92 points in 42 Cellartracker reviews - my rating - RM 88 points - perhaps more indication that this bottle was shut down at this time.  . 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=15913

Chateau Langoa Barton St Julien Bordeaux Cru Classe 2000

This wine was Number 24 of the Spectator's top 100 wines of 2003!

Legendary Anthony Barton owns this and the more renouned Léoville Barton but Langoa Barton sells for a fraction of the price - this is a great investment wine from this vintage.

This Langoa is big and intense with dense, rich, aromas and flavors of  earthy black and blue berry and black currant fruits with a layer of anise and hint of leather with structured lingering full tannins and acidity on the finish.

94 points Wine Spectator: 91 points from Robert Parker; 90 points RM - average and median of 91 points in 50 Cellartracker reviews.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=9898

  Still in process .... More to come ...


Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

If you love Silver Oak, you'll like this release; if you think Silver Oak is over the top over-oaked, then you won't!

Complex, full bodied with dark ruby red color, aromas and flavors of floral, ripe plum and blackberry with a layer of that signature predominant sweet spicy oak, undercurrents of spice, black olive, mocha and vanilla with supple, integrated fine grained tannins and a long finish.

Like the Trilogy above, Silver Oak Napa 2004 is also a meritage blend but even moreso (Bordeaux like) with 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot 2%, 1% Malbec.

90 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar; RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=334621

http://www.silveroak.com/

Celler Vall Llach Priorat IDUS Catalunya Spain 2005


John brought and served a 2005 Proriat Idus from Celler Vall Llach. Dark inky colored, full bodied it exhibit black fruits, creosote tar notes, licorice, black cherry and spice with a hints of smoke and tobacco on the finish.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=354910

Cellartracker reviewers rated this an average 90.9 points with a median of 91 pts. in 37 notes. RM 87 points.



Grahams Vintage Port 2000 and 1991  

To finish, with chocolate cake, fresh berries and whipped cream, we Lyle served Grahams Vintage Port 2000 and 1991.

Sunday, July 1, 2012

Trio of value priced summer chardonnays


Trio of value priced chardonnays for summer - Rutherford Hill, Toad Hollow, Sonoma-Cutrer - One each from Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino Counties.



Rutherford Hill Napa Valley Chardonnay 2009 

Tasted at Norman's Bistro in Kenwood District, Chicago.

Light straw color. Aromas of lemon, honey, vanilla with hint of orange blossom. Full-bodied with crisp acidity of citrus, vanilla bean and flinty mineral accents.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1194752

http://www.rutherfordhill.com/

Horinzontal selection of large format 1981 vintage wines for our
daughter Erin's birthyear - served at her wedding
I have fond memories of Rutherford Hill wines and I try to support their efforts. Nestled in the foothills on the eastern slope overlooking central Napa Valley, Rutherford Hill is part of the Terlato Wine Group of Illinois portfolio of wineries, who purchased this winery in 1996. I met one of the principles of the previous ownership group, Jeff Jaegar at a winetasting in Naperville in the early nineties. He was representing Freemark Abbey at the time and helped me procure a case of Freemark Abbey Bosche' Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Upon learning of my collection of large format bottles commemorating my kid's birthyears (the basis of my feature in Collecting section of Wine Spectator) he sent me a Imperial of Jaegar Vineyards Merlot 1981, and I was able to obtain another of Rutherford Hill Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1981, both of which we served at our daughter Erin's wedding.

Toad Hollow Mendocino County Chardonnay 2009

This is the seventeenth vintage for Toad Hollow, named by actor owner Robbin Williams for his brother Todd as a remembrance of when he was a toddler and couldn't pronounce his name hence calling him Toad!

Our friend and favored producer Robert Craig of Robert Craig Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons fame was consulting winemaker for them for many years when he was crafting his expertise up on Mt Veeder.

Fruity, crisp, clean, steely, peaches, grapefruit, and citrus, melon and green apple. A bit too flinty to my preference, but the lowest price of the three too.

RM 85 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1039509

https://toadhollow.worldsecuresystems.com/

Sonoma-Cutrer Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2009

This is a popular producer with a selection of chardonnays that are common wine list selections in many restaurants that are a safe bet as they tend to be consistent with high QPR - Quality Price Ratio. The 2009 vintage was the first release of this wine under new winemaker Terry Adams. The fruit was sourced from select lots of some of the finest vineyards in Sonoma, including the Cutrer Vineyard and Vine Hill, as well as Kent, Shiloh, and Owsley. The wine was barrel-fermented (90% of the wine went through maloactic fermentation) and aged for six to eight months sur lie in 20% new French oak. The resulting wine is full-bodied with a bright gold color, a rich, creamy mid-palate, and aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, puff pastry, toffee, and baking spice. The acidity that comes from the cool-climate Cutrer fruit results in a wine that shows nice balance with hints of minerals and toasty oak.
Winemaker's notes:
Rich and intense aromas of honey, apple pie, butterscotch and roasted hazelnuts are complimented with citrus notes of lemon blossom and lemon curd. This wine fills the mouth with rich texture, a round and creamy mid-palate is supported by that signature Sonoma-Cutrer clean, citrus-laced acidity that creates an excellent balance. Fruit flavors of baked apple, lemon curd, pear and melon are accented with a complimentary bit of toasty oak.

RM 90 points. 


Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Fess Parker Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir 2006

Fess Parker Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir 2006

Medium bodied, black cherry fruit with hint of earth, cola, red berry and spice. Tasted from 375 bottle at home with grilled steak and roasted potato dinner. Better than earlier review, lost the awkwardness, more polished, balanced and approachable than as reviewed last year.

RM 87 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=456230

http://www.fessparkerwines.com/

I find it a challenge to discover a high QPR - (Quality Price Ratio) Pinot Noir under $25 and moreso under $20. This is such a wine! 

Sunday, June 24, 2012

Terra Valentine Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Terra Valentine Spring Mountain District Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

This is the Sam's Cuvee, label selected and bottled for the former Sam's Wine & Spirits before being acquired by Binny's in Chicago. This was tasted with grilled porterhouse and ribeye steaks, potatoes, and sweet corn dinner outside by the pool at Mark and Shirley's.

The Cabernet Sauvignon was dark garnet colored and full bodied; firm, tight and a bit closed with predominant flavors of black berry, anise and a tone of creosote/tar that gave way to black currant and spicy clove on the finish moderate finish.

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=607975


Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Pair of South Australian Shiraz's 2004

Tasted BYOB with Danny A, Lt Col Joe S and Clint B at Angelis Italian Restaurant in Naperville. Great complements to their Portabello Mushroom ravioli entree.

Pott's Family Bleasdale Langhorne Creek Reserve Shiraz 2004 

From the Langhorne Creek appellation in South Australia, Bleasdaleas vineyards were founded in 1850 by Frank Potts, making Bleasdale one of Australia's oldest family-owned wineries. Having just celebrated its 150th anniversary, it is the second oldest continuously operated family-owned winery besides Yalumba located in the Barossa Valley. Potts was one of South Australia's original settlers having landed in Adelaide on the HMS Buffalo in 1836.

Medium bodied, fairly uninspiring lacking the full forward fruits, spice or body of so many Australian shiraz from the area, this exhibits black cherry and slightly tart cherrry fruits with a layer of creotsote/tar and hint of oak with firm tannins on the short finish. 

RM 87,  Robert Parker, Jr. 88 pts - Wine Advocate #168







Jim Barry "The McRae Wood" Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley, South Australia, Shiraz 2004

Medium bodied with subdued fruits, McRae Wood exhibited similar black cherry and black berry fruits but exhibited a layer of graphite and bacon that detracted from the fruit. Like the Bleasdale, also showed modest tannins on a moderate finish.

RM 87 points. 



Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Sbragia Family Vineyards Sonoma County Dry Creek Valley Andolsen Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

The fruit for this Cabernet comes from vineyards of a Dr. Andolsen, friend and family doctor of the producers,  located on the west side of Dry Creek in the rolling hills of the Coastal Range in Sonoma County, California in the Dry Creek appellation. 


Winemaker's notes - Aromas of sweet mint, leather, and savory herbs are followed by ripe flavors of blackberry, fresh cranberry and allspice. The blend is mouth-coating and finishes with rich savory notes that complement its velvety tannins.

This wine was aged for 18 months in 100% new French oak barrels imparting cedar and brown spice aromas and flavors and supple tannins. Malolactic fermentation softened the tannins and contributed to a rich, lengthy finish. A small amount of Cabernet Franc was added for  structure and subtle complimentary herbal characteristics.

A blend of 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc.

My notes - medium-full bodied, full flavors of black cherry, black currant, hints of anise, smoke and spices on a lingering moderate finish of polished smooth tannins.
RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1294719

http://www.sbragia.com/

Tasted BYOB at Angeli's Italian Restaurant in Naperville with Danny, Tom, John C and Clint.

Sunday, June 17, 2012

Varner Santa Cruz Mountain Chardonnay 2009

Varner Santa Cruz Mountains Spring Ridge Vineyard Ampitheatre Block Chardonnay 2009

Liat, our friend from Northern California visited and L prepared a Salmon with a  tangy Mango and Cilantro sauce and we served this Chardonnay which was a perfect accompaniment to the entree. It also was a toast to Liat's Northern California Santa Cruz Mountain roots in Los Gatos and long time homestead in the area high above Scott's Valley on Vinehill Road on the site of the old Smothers' Brothers vineyard estate.

Located in the Santa Cruz Mountains south and west of the San Francisco Bay tucked back in the Portola Valley west of Stanford University in the Santa Cruz Appellation, Varner Wines are the product of twin brothers Bob and Jim Varner. This area is not well known for Chardonnay but this 'Amphitheatre Vineyard' Chardonnay is highly regarded and much sought after. The Varner 'Amphitheatre Vineyard' Chardonnay represents a sense of place or "terroir". 

Winemaker Bob Varner selects fruit from the "Amphitheater Block" of their Spring Ridge Vineyard, which was first planted in 1980. This area has never been afflicted with Phyloxera so the vines are from the original root stock and plantings. Varner uses non-interventionist farming practices and native yeast fermentation, yielding a pleasant and impressive wine with character that is crisp and citrusy, with plenty of acidity and minerality. This wine is also a considerable value for the money.

This label is less well known perhaps than their Foxglove label, a line of affordable wines, which offer a high QPR - quality to price ratio; this is from their higher end offerings which are single vineyard and in this case single block designated bottlings. The Varner Spring Ridge Vineyard Amphitheater Block Chardonnay comes from a two-acre block of own-rooted, 28-year-old vines and is aged in 30% new French oak on its lees until bottling.


The Varner Santa Cruz Mountains Spring Ridge Vineyard Ampitheatre Block Chardonnay 2009 was subdued and not over the top like so many Cal chardonnays - medium to full body, excellent texture with aromatic notes of honeysuckle, subtle oak, spice and lemon oil, it features flavors of baked apple, lemon and pear with moderate minerality and a crisp, steely component, with balanced acidity. 


RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1137045

http://www.varnerwine.com/ 

Beringer Vineyards Nightingale Napa Valley Botytised Semillion Sauvignon Blanc 2004

 For dessert, Linda prepared warm individual chocolate cakes served with ice cream and fresh red raspberries. We  served this with  Beringer Vineyards Nightingale Napa Valley Botytised Semillion Sauvignon Blanc 2004 which accented the red berry fruits and chocolate perfectly.

Golden yellow on release, this eight year old is taking on a weak tea honey colored hue that will continue to darken with age. Medium to full bodied, scents and flavors of honey, apricot and melon finish with a subtle layer of smoke that moderates the fruit and sweetness.

This smokey current greatly resembles the profile of the Beringer Late Harvest Special Select Johannisburg Riesling 1993 that we have tasted over the ensuing eighteen years since release.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=441964