Showing posts with label terroir. Show all posts
Showing posts with label terroir. Show all posts

Thursday, May 23, 2019

Diamond Creek Gravelly Meadow Duo

Diamond Creek Gravelly Meadow Duo highlight grilled beefsteak dinner

Getaway weekend in Charleston to visit dear friends and fellow 'Pour Boy' Bill and Beth on Seabrook Island, SC, I took a twenty year old Diamond Creek Gravelly Meadow and Bill pulled a ten year old to share and compare with grilled beefsteak dinner.

What an interesting comparison of an iconic classic vineyard designated wine that is the epitome of terroir. Terroir refers to the elements of 'place', all the characteristics of a vineyard site that manifest in the wine - soil, elevation, drainage, sun exposure, proximity to climate impacting bodies of water ocean, bay or river valley, climate and micro-climate. 

Diamond Creek Vineyards is known for its vineyard designated select wines from the four legendary vineyards on the property that each have a distinctive terroir character and profile due to their individual geology on the opposing sides of the Creek and the valley. Each of the four vineyards are featured on their own Vineyard designated labels that describe the contributing geology to their distinctive component of terroir - Red Rock Terrace, Volcanic Hill, Lake Vineyard, and this label, Gravelly Meadow.

Legendary vineyards of Diamond Creek

Diamond Creek Vineyards - Rick, Dan, Bill in 2017

Diamond Creek Vineyards straddle the Diamond Creek near the bottom of Diamond Mountain, at the north end of the Mayacamas Range above the town of Calistoga, in the northwest corner of Napa Valley. All the Diamond Creek Vineyards wines are Cabernet Sauvignon.

We visited Diamond Creek Estate for a culinary tasting experience back in 2011, and then in 2017 for their release party for the 2015 vintage release open house in 2017.

Bill and Beth, Jan and Bill, Linda and I with Boots Brownstein,
Diamond Creek Owner, Proprietor, in 2011
Tonight's comparison tasting showcased the difference in age and its effect on the wine, in combination with the variations of two contrasting vintages, a ten year old from 2009 vs. a twenty year old from 1999. Vintage variations are mostly characterized by seasonal temperatures, the length of the growing season, and the amount and timing of rainfall.


The 2009 growing season was ideal in Napa Valley providing winemakers lush, beautiful grapes for great wine. Late spring rains delayed irrigation needs and the warm spell in June helped curtail excessive canopy development. There were nearly only four or five 100+ degree days, compared to fourteen in a typical growing season, thus helping to reduce demand for water when the resource was relatively scarce.

Rainfall was little more than two-thirds of normal but the timing of the precipitation was ideal for the vines. There was lack of frost and a mild, relatively cool growing season, resulting in the best scenario possible for the vines and optimal grape production.

In 1999 the long, cool spring gave way to a mild summer with only one heat spike recorded in the first part of July, the vintage ripened under conditions that allowed a long hang-time that resulted in fruit of concentrated varietal flavors with a strong backbone of acid. 

Diamond Creek Vineyards Gravelly Meadow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1999



My Cellartracker records indicate we hold ten vintages of this label going back to the 1983 vintage. We're holding this wine for our kids' birth years 1990, 1985, and daughter-in-law's 1983. We consider this a 'special occasion' wine. It's a special treat to compare multiple vintages.

At twenty years of age this wine is likely at the apex of its drinking window, certainly not to improve with further aging, but probably nearing the end of its prime drinkability.

Dark garnet color with purple sprites, medium bodied, complex moderate blackberry, black currant and plum fruits turning to tobacco, notes of graphite and cedar wood, frontal bright acidity is pronounced and a bit obtuse turning to gripping tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 91 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=15225


Diamond Creek Vineyards Gravelly Meadow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

A great example of the opportunity to taste two vintage releases side by side to appreciate the nuances of age and the different vintages.  The 2009 came across as more elegant and polished than the 1999 which in comparison was a bit flabby, no more or less complex, but the '09 benefiting from the more graceful and well behaved acid and tannins.

Bill's Cellartracker tasting notes on this wine:

"Deep ruby color. Nose consists of chocolate, graphite and a bit of earth. On the palate there are notes of black cherry, raspberry, chocolate, tobacco with well integrated, silky smooth, plush tannins. Full bodied with a finish that goes on and on. Drank this side by side with a 1999 Gravelly Meadow representing a 10 year old and a 20 year old mini vertical. The 99 still had plenty of fruit but had evolved to a more earthy bordeaux profile. However, there was no doubt of the parentage of the two wines. Style and profile were very similar. Delicious now. I know how long lasting Diamond Creek is having served birth year magnums from '82, '84 and '89 at my children's weddings. However, based in part on this experience, I wonder if I don't tend to wait too long. Think I will start drinking earlier."

WCC - 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1114057

Before dinner, Bill also served one of our favorites, Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc, and then a classic Chateau St Jean Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and a Robert Craig Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet which I write about in this separate blogpost.

Chateau St Jean Sonoma Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

We tasted and Bill acquired this bottle when we visited the Chateau back in 2009. We have visited the Chateau St Jean estate in northern Sonoma Valley and had private tastings with Bill and Beth twice - during our Napa, Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017, and, back in 2009 during our Sonoma Harvest Tour '09 - Chateau St Jean.

Bill's Cellartracker tasting notes for this evening's tasting of this wine:

"Deep indigo in color. Mixed fruit on the palate...blackberry, black raspberry and cassis along with a touch of cedar, tobacco box and mocha. Great long lasting legs. Full bodied with a medium finish. I would say this is in the peak of its drinking window. Will still last several more years but unlikely to improve"

WCC - 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=659625

Bill and Beth at magnificent Chateau St Jean estate
Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Another one of our favorite producers and 'go to' wines, Cliff Lede and his Sauvignon Blanc. Also, another producer estate that we we have visited together with Bill and Beth during our Napa Valley Wine Experiences. We have visited the Cliff Lede estate together several times including this private tasting - Cliff Lede Stag's Leap District Vineyard & Winery Visit - Autumn '2009.





Bill's notes from this tasting:


"Crisp, clean and refreshing. Pale straw color. Zesty grapefruit and lemon on the palate. Nicely balanced acidity. Always a favorite."

WCC - 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2942346

Sunday, May 19, 2019

Del Dotto Cinghiale Vineyard Fort Ross Seaview Sonoma Coast Syrah

Del Dotto Cinghiale Vineyard Fort Ross Seaview Sonoma Coast Syrah 2014

We've been collecting Del Dotto wines since their inaugural release back in 1993 and they represent one of the largest holdings in our cellar collection. We discovered, tasted and acquired this label during our food and wine culinary tasting at Del Dotto Piazza winery last autumn. It was one of the highlights of our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2018 that week.

Just returning from France and South Africa where I tasted some great Syrahs from two diverse wine regions, I was eager to enjoy a top flight American Syrah from our cellar. Simply, this wine is delicious and represents the best of Syrah. It reflects the profile and style we love and was ideal for casual sipping with artisan cheeses and then some grilled ground beef.

The Del Dotto Cinghiale Vineyard sits atop the King Ridge, a cobbly, rocky hillside overlooking the Pacific Ocean on the Sonoma Coast, and the wine certainly reflects that terroir. Cinghiale is Italian for 'wild boar', a tribute to wild pigs that were found in the wild back country over the years.

The Del Dotto Cinghiale Vineyard is in the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA (appellation). The newest Sonoma County AVA, it was carved out of the larger Sonoma Coast AVA to recognize its unique terroir of of elevation, coastal breezes and fog and the special characteristics of this remote and rugged region.

The Fort Ross-Seaview AVA has 500 vineyard acres that are known for most sought-after Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but it also includes this Syrah and even some South African Pinotage grape varietals. The 27,500-acre Fort Ross-Seaview American viticultural area was awarded AVA status in 2011.

Dark deep inky purple garnet colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated but superbly balanced and polished and not the least bit overpowering, sprites of ripe berries up throughout, accented by sweet floral notes, sweet notes of sandalwood that almost conjure hints of root beer, turning to hints of smoke, menthol and black peppercorn on a full throttled flavorful finish with silky smooth nicely polished tannins.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2470982

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/

Monday, November 27, 2017

Duo Napa Cabs - Del Dotto - Digiulio

Duo of Napa Cabernets Cabernet Sauvignon - Del Dotto 2002 and Marco Di Giulio Mt Veeder Progeny Vineyard 2001

With friend Mike in from NYC, we dined at Angelis Italian, our favorite local trattoria. I pulled from the cellar two Napa Valley Cabernets from Italian namesake producers - Del Dotto and Marco Di Giulio for the occasion.

We tasted the Marco Di Giulio Mt Veeder Progeny Vineyard 2001 with artisan cheeses at the house beforehand.

Marco DiGiulio unique hand-crafted wines minimalist style wines were available under the winemakers' label and branding in limited quantities during the 2001 through 2004 vintages. They could be found in the boutique and specialist wineshops in Napa Valley or in the 'after market' via wine auctions. They were classic vineyard expressions of terrior, that unique expression of each vineyards distinctive character, produced in very small quantities of 200 to 300 cases. His approach to winemaking is fairly minimal, rather letting the vineyard and each vintage speak for itself. As he says, he wants to “taste” each vineyard.

Marco produced his wines at Bin to Bottle, a high quality custom crush facility for a number of small Napa Vintners in South Napa where he is a partner.

Winemaker Marco DiGiulio was born and raised in San Francisco soon after his parents parents emigrated from Tuscany. They become successful Bay Area restaurateurs and Marco grew up exposed to wonderful Italian meals and wine as part of everyday life growing up in the city's trendy North Beach.

Marco developed an in-depth knowledge of winemaking and viticulture through education and experience in the industry. He graduated with a degree in Fermentation Science from the University of California at Davis in 1985.

He spent two years at Buena Vista, then worked as cellar master at Pine Ridge Winery for more than four years before moving on to production manager for Atlas Peak Vineyards. He was appointed as winemaker for Pezzi King Vineyards in 1994. He became the winemaker at Pepi Winery in Oakville in '95. During this time he took charge of the Lokoya brand after the death of celebrated winemaker and mentor Greg Upton. At Lokoya, Marco earned his reputation for making world class Cabernet Sauvignon. Today Marco is no longer is entirely employed by one winery, rather he is a consulting winemaker for a number of high end boutique producers in the Napa area.

Marco also devotes attention to his personal projects: Vintage Wine Estates, Bin to Bottle, Lookout Ridge and Marco DiGiulio Wines where he strives to produce wines that reflect the rugged landscapes of the vineyard sources.

Marco Di Giulio Napa Valley Mount Veeder Progeny Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

This Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the Progeny Vineyard owned by Betty O'Shaughnessy of the family with the winery bearing their name on Howell Mountain producing wines made primarily from vineyards on that site. The Mt. Veeder vineyard is laid out with steep terraced blocks that cling to a northeastern facing hillside at about 1,400 ft.

The 2001 vintage is considered one of the all time classics in the Napa Valley with a long mild summer, and ideal weather leading up to the harvest that produced wines with optimum intensity and character.

Marco Di Giulio Napa Valley Mount Veeder Progeny Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 -  
Dark inky color. Big floral nose. Mouthful of black berry, cedar, spicy oak and finely integrated polished tannins on a long flavorful finish. 

RM 92 

http://cellartracker.com/w?137762 

Winemaker's Notes: "This wine is all about power.  From its inky deep purple color to its broad shouldered tannins, this is a big wine. On the nose, the first impression is one of blackberry and blueberry fruit with an underlying biscuity note from the oak.  Think berry cobbler in a glass.  On the palate, the wine is mouthfilling and explodes with fruit.  The tannins, while quite evident, are well tamed and there's enough fruit richness to balance them out.  The finish is long and complex, with more black fruit and spice. As for ultimate aging potential, with proper cellaring, I would guess 15 to 20 years wouldn't be too much of a stretch."

Friday, September 16, 2016

Fox Valley Winery and Vineyard

Illinois Wineries and Wine Production Progressing - Fox Valley Winery and Vineyard

Touring the Fox Valley river communities recently, we happened upon Fox Valley Winery tasting room. Illinois is not known for or thought of as a wine producing state, yet it is one of the leading agriculture producing states, mostly known for corn and beans. It has rich fertile soils that lend themselves well to specialty crops such as pumpkins, fruit trees and grapes. This is actually somewhat detrimental since wine grapes often thrive in poor rocky soils unsuitable for more rigorous crops.

The dichotomy of wine grape growing is that some of the most famous or best known wine regions actually are known for arid regions with minimal rainfall, rocky soils, and or steep mountainous or valley overlook hillsides where the little rainfalls drain well or run off.

Indeed, some of the most storied wines are named for or associated with rocky, even volcanic soils. Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou,  premier grand cru producer in Bordeaux actually translates to 'tiny pebbles', a tribute to the rock filled terrain which drains exceedingly well. Diamond Creek Vineyards, one of the premier wine producers in Napa Valley are known for vineyard designated wines with distinctly different vineyards that yield premier Cabernet Sauvignons. The famous legendary vineyards of Diamond Creek are Gravelly Meadow, Red Rock Terrace and Volcanic Hill.

Rocky vineyards of Chateauneuf du Pape
The most concentrated richest grapes are those that are starved for nutrients, especially in years starved for rainfall during the latter part of the grape growing season.

Shown left is the vineyard of Chateau Beaucastel in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation of the Southern Rhone River Valley. The soil is almost completely rocky pebbles down to twelve feet deep.

Hence Illinois is challenged with it agricultural friendly climate of seasons, rainfall and rich quality soil as a wine grape producing State. Never-the-less, wine production in Illinois is growing albeit from small empirical numbers, especially in the last five years. Last year, 80 wineries farmed 200 vineyards and produced about 500,000 gallons of wine generating about $21m in revenue. The average vineyard is relatively small, about 4.6 acres on average.

Most major popular wine regions around the world are known for specific varietals of grapes that are synonymous with those regions, such as the Bordeaux varietals associated with the famous Bordeaux wine growing region - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The legendary Burgundy wine growing region in central France is known for or associated with Burgundy varietals Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Italy is famously known for growing over 500 varietals of grapes. Sangiovese is Italy's most planted red varietal, grown in the central Italian regions of Tuscany and Umbria, and others, it is the major grape of Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and the only variety in Brunello di Montalcino.

Nebbiolo grapes are grown in the Italian Piedmont region and is the primary grape in two of Italy’s  greatest red wines, Barolo and Barbaresco.

The old wine regions of the world are known for specific grapes as a result of decades or even centuries of learning, experimenting and fine-tuning grape production to their specific terroir - that specific essence of 'place' - terrain, climate and soil.

So it should not be a surprise the the selection of grapes in Illinois is still evolving and being refined, as producers learn what grapes grow best in their specific locales. At this time, the grapes mostly grown in Ilinois are Chardonnel, Chambourcin, Norton, Traminette and Vignobles.

Such is the backdrop of our recent visit to Fox Valley Winery in nearby Oswego, Illinois. We live near the Fox River that winds through the far western exburbs west of Chicago down to where it meets the Illinois River in north, west, central Illinois. The Fox River winds through river towns such as Elgin, St Charles, Geneva, adjacent Aurora, and Oswego, down to where it meets the Illinois River in Ottawa.

Fox Valley Winery sources grapes from 25 acres of vineyards farmed by the Faltz Family Vineyard and farm near Sheridan, IL. Their vines were first planted in March of 2000, along the south-facing rocky ledges of the Fox River Valley. They also source grapes from growers from various regions of the midwest including Southern Illinois and Southwestern Michigan - two more established and growing wine producing areas.

We had a chance to taste several Fox Valley wines in their tasting room at the winery on the western outskirts of Oswego, where they offer about thirty different wines. Their range of wines is broad, from dry whites and dry reds, off-dry to sweet whites and reds, to sweet wines and ultra sweet or fortified dessert wines.

We focused on their flagship Reserve and their Estate wines - those sourced from grapes grown in their own vineyards. I must admit, their wines exceeded my expectations which here-to-fore, have been set by Midwestern wines (with grapes sourced) from Michigan, Missouri and Indiana. These were more balanced, complex and sophisticated wines that did not succumb to the detrimental non-fruit flavors such as grass, wet wood and mustiness that too often predominate or infiltrate Midwestern wines.

Fox Valley Estate Grown Unoaked Chardonnay 2013

Light straw colored, medium light bodied, modest green apple fruit with hints of pear and wet stone with a crisp clean finish.

RM 85 points. 

Fox Valley Estate Grown Barrel Aged Chardonnay 2013

Almost indiscernible from the unoaked label, a slight oak tone may differentiate the two, but it is oh so subtle. In a blind tasting, only the most discriminating might pick up the difference.

RM 85 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2471799


R. A. Faltz Vintner Reserve 2011

Their flagship or signature wine, as it is named for the proprietor / winemaker. Like expensive premium wines from around the world, this wine is aged in a mix of French and American oak barrels for fourteen months. Other recent vintages were aged for ten and eighteen months respectively.

Garnet colored, medium bodied, as one might expect from red wines from this part of the country, the fruits were modest and rather subdued, especially when compared to big forward fruit bombs from some of the world's leading wine regions. However, it was surprisingly approachable, reasonably balanced, and almost bordering on sophisticated drinking, with earthy leather, tones of tobacco and hints of cedar, with impressive moderate tannins on a lingering finish.

RM 86 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2471781
 

Fox Valley Illinois Cabernet Franc 2011

Perhaps reflecting the cost of the fruit for this is sourced from 100% Illinois grown Cabernet Franc, which is one of the Bordeaux varietals, this was the most expensive wine on the list at $45.

Like the Faltz VR above, dark garnet colored, medium bodied, the fruits again were rather modest and subdued with a slight astringency turning to earthy leather, slight spice and black pepper, with moderate firm tannins on the finish.

RM 86 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2471788


Fox Valley Heritage Collection 2008

A blend of Cabernet Franc, Chambourcin and Corot Noir. Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, nicely balanced, modest black cherry fruit turning to earthy leather with hint of creosote on a moderate lingering tannin finish.

At around half the price of the flagship wine, and almost a third of the Cabernet Franc, this represents a more appropriate price-point and reflects reasonable value in this approachable easy drinking red sipper.

RM 84 points.


https://www.foxvalleywinery.com/














Friday, June 24, 2016

Todd Alexander joins Force Majeure Winery

Force Majeure Red Mountain Vineyard and Winery - An emerging tour de force in premium Washington State Columbia Valley wines ...

We had the pleasure of meeting Todd Alexander, Head Winemaker and General Manager of Force Majeure, the highly-acclaimed winery from Washington State’s Red Mountain AVA, and his wife Carrie, during their recent marketing trip to Chicago. 

We met with Todd and Carrie to learn about Force Majeure and their work there to produce and market highest quality wines representing the rich and diverse terroir of the Red Mountain appellation. Todd gained notoriety at cult winery Bryant on Pritchard Hill in Napa Valley where his wines earned high ratings and critical praise. There he learned the craft under legendary viticulturist David Abreu and winemaking consultant Michel Rolland, following in the footsteps there of such notable producers such as Peter Melka. He also spent time learning the craft at Plumpjack/Cade. Joining Todd was wife Carrie, who will be working in marketing of Force Majeure.

They join proprietors Susan and Paul McBride, who purchased the undeveloped land, that is now Force Majeure Vineyard, in 2004, and since then have developed the Force Majeure brand with their devotion and commitment to meticulous viticulture and exemplary winemaking. They have been sourcing Red Mountain fruit from the finest lots from the well known Ciel du Cheval vineyard, marketing under the branding Grand Reve Vintners. During this time they have been increasingly shifting focus to Force Majeure, highlighting fruit from the estate Force Majeure Vineyard as more and more plots come online. Up to now they produced the Collaboration Series featuring Washington’s leading winemakers and one of Red Mountain’s greatest vineyards, Ciel du Cheval. Now, with Todd at the healm of winemaking duties, they will focus on their estate vineyards starting with the Force Majeure vineyard.

Todd and Carrie moved with their their family from Napa Valley to the Columbia Valley to purse this extraordinary opportunity. Todd joined Force Majeure in 2014 so this year's release will be the first reflecting his craftmanship from the vineyards to the glass.

Force Majeure is growing production from 2,000 cases per year to 4,000 cases as their second 20-acre parcel comes into production. The winery’s focus has been on red Bordeaux varietals with acreage planted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot and Rhone varietals Syrah, Grenache and Mouvedre with new plantings in Cinsault, Counoise, Viognier and others. This will allow Todd to explore developing product with both Northern and Southern Rhone style wines as well those reflecting the Bordeaux Left and Right Banks. Such is the diversity and of the terroir of the property.

The Force Majeure estate vineyard is in Washington state's Red Mountain AVA (appellation - agriculture viticulturual area. The original vineyard was planted in 13 acres, and an additional 10 acres planted in 2015. Force Majeure Vineyard is up against the hillside abutting Red Mountain.

Todd seeks to emulate the great labels of Pomerol, St Julien, Hermitage, Priorat, Côte-Rôtie and Chateauneuf-du-Pape - such labels as Lalande-de-Pomerol, Chateau Latour, La Ladone, and Chateau Beaucastel as benchmark wines. We're excited to watch the evolution and growth of his work as Force Majeure as he seeks to pursue his vision and realize the potential of this great property, and for him to express and develop his capabilities in a broad portfolio of premium wines.

Todd told of us the unique diversity, and superior terroir and great potential of the property, in the foothill butted up against the Red Mountain range overlooking the Yakima River basin. The diverse property has nine different soil types in a change of elevation from 900 to 1200 feet. The rocky upper part of the property has as much as a 40% slope, well-suited for the Rhone varietals, while the lower elevations of the vineyard's well-drained soils are more ideally suited to Bordeaux varietals, all with a Southwestern exposure to capture the afternoon sun, ideal for ripening the grapes.

The Yakima Valley AVA was the first AVA created in Washington State in 1983. The valley covers 600,000 acres in south central Washington, twice the size of the greater Bordeaux region, and fifteen times the size of Napa Valley. Yakima Valley is home to the largest concentration of vineyards and wineries in the state with more than 60 wineries and 16,000 vineyard acres. Nearly 40% of Washington wines are made with Yakima Valley grapes.

In 1984 Columbia Valley was given AVA status, and Yakima Valley was enclosed within the Columbia Valley AVA. Since that time, several new appellations have been added including Red Mountain AVA and Horse Heaven Hills AVA, which are both contained within Yakima Valley.

Force Majeure currently has a winery facility in Woodinville, WA but will also be developing their own world class winery facility, renovating a historic rustic 11,000 schoolhouse from around 1900. 

Todd left us the Force Majeure Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 and Force Majeure Red Mountain Syrah 2013, both sourced from the Force Majeure vineyard. Watch for my update with our upcoming tasting of these wines.

We met with Todd and Carrie at the famous Chicago landmark Italian Village Restaurant with their historic award winning wine cellar, now run by Wine Director Sommelier Jared Gelband who gave us a tour of the cellar featuring in my separate blogpost.

https://forcemajeurevineyards.com/


Thursday, November 26, 2015

Thanksgiving feast features diverse Pinot vs Rhone Wine Approach

Thanksgiving feast features diverse Pinot vs Rhone Approach to Wine Pairing

Thanksgiving dinner was held at son Ryan's and Michelle's for a gala family gathering of seventeen. Ryan and I both sourced some special wines for the event, taking two divergent approaches to accompany the dinner feast. Ryan served two Rhone wines while I brought two California Pinot Noirs. Both were ideal accompaniments to the delicious festive turkey, yams, mashed potatoes, dressing and gravy.

From the Northern Rhone, Ryan served Guigal Saint Joseph, and from the Southern Rhone, he served a Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape. From California I brought a Calera Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir and a Ninety Plus Cellars Sonoma Pinot Noir.

Rhone Valley Syrah

I admit we've missed out on Northern Rhone Syrahs which is tragic given our fondness for Syrah/Shiraz, and considering how much we collect and drink this varietal. We do hold a collection of (Southern Rhone) Chateauneuf-du-Papes which include Syrah in the blend, but our focus has been primarily on Australian Syrah/Shiraz with an occasional Californian and once in a while, one from Washington State.

Son Ryan has discovered Northern Rhone labels and has been preaching their virtues and brought them to our attention. These are the original old world Syrahs, after all, and deserve attention of fans of the varietal.

Readers of this blog might recall our visit to the legendary Napa Valley Syrah producer Lagier-Meredith, where Carol Meredith is a plant geneticist. I asked her about the relationship between the Shiraz and Syrah varietals from the Rhone Valley, California and Australia. She indicated that at the end of the day, they're all related and essentially from the same lineage. So differences in labels from the various regions should be attributed generally to terrior, the distinct sense of 'place' from where the grapes are sourced - soil, climate, exposure, etc.

Tonight's Rhone experience showed two remarkable Syrahs or Syrah inclusive blends.

Guigal Saint Joseph Rhone 2009

Of course, knowledgeable wine folks know that old world producers (Italy, France, Germany) name or label their wines after the appellation or place where the grapes in the wine are sourced - Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Burgundy, St. Emilion, Bordeaux, and leave it to the consumer to know what grapes are associated with that growing area. New world producers, on the other hand, name or label their wines after the grape or varietal in the bottle - Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah, etc., as well as the locale from where the grapes are sourced. One might argue that this may be due to the fact that New World wine consumers are less knowledgeable, but it could also be argued that there is less correlation between regions and the varietals grown there - such as Sonoma Cabernet (a Bordeaux varietal) as well as Pinot Noir (a Burgundy varietal).

Guigal Saint Joseph Rhone 2009

While not as complex in the blend as a Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which features Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, (hence the moniker 'GSM' given to some of this blend when from other regions), perhaps Cinsault, and may include several other varietals, this single varietal Syrah based wine still showed notable depth and complexity. This Northern Rhone label provides high QPR (quality to price ratio), especially compared to the CDP's and some of the named label Northern Rhones.

This was dark garnet and purple colored, medium full bodied, aromas and flavors of full, forward ripe black berry and black cherry fruits accented by a layer of cracked pepper, herbs, and tones of smoked meat, hints of creosote and smoke, with medium acidity, gripping but approachable tannins. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1262699


Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2009

A visit to this legendary producer was one of the highlights of our trip to Chateauneuf-du-Pape a few years ago.

This was one of the most expressive, vibrant yet balanced and polished Vieux-Telegraphs, or CDP's for that matter, that I recall having in a long time.

Bright garnet colored, medium-full bodied, lively, rich, concentrated, forward red berry fruits predominate, accented by some dark berry flavors with a pleasant flavorful punctuation of tones of white pepper and hints of clove on a long elegant complex but smooth polished finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1023306


Fitting the occasion of son Ryan hosting the holiday, I brought a Ryan Vineyard Calera Mt Harlan Pinot Noir along with a Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 125 Monterey County Pinot Noir for a comparison tasting.

Calera are one of the original Pinot Noir varietal producers in California dating back to the '70's. Their founding and ascent are featured in the entertaining and educational classic wine book "The Heart Break Grape", about the challenges of finding and developing a suitable site for the finicky Pinot Nor grape in the untested California wine regions. Calera, known for vineyard designated Pinots released the Ryan Vineyard label in the last decade with the 2004 vintage release.


Pinot Noir makes up a fraction of our cellar collection as I am not a big fan or collector of Pinot Noir, but we do keep a couple labels for suitable drinking to fit the cuisine and occasion. Hence, I tend to be less discriminating and palate trained in Pinot than I am the Bordeaux varietals, which I favor. Knowing Ryan was opening Rhone wines, I selected and brought Pinot Noir, also suited to traditional Thanksgiving fare cuisine.

Perhaps it is my lack of Pinot discernment that I found a $46 to be almost comparable to one costing less than half the price, however, as I've written often, Ninety-Plus Cellars and the negociant practice often feature quality releases at a fraction of their comparable value due to their sourcing of overstock or excessive inventory from acclaimed producers. Such producers' branding is maintained by their anonymity as they are indicated by their "Lot' designation.

Hence this comparison tasting between these two Pinots.

Calera Ryan Vineyard Mt Harlan Pinot Noir 2011

Translucent ruby red colored, medium light bodied, scent of dusty rose, cherry and raspberry fruit flavors with a hint of cola and spice turning to tones of mushroom and smoke with fine grained delicate tannins on the moderate lingering finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1774888

 

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 125 Monterey County Pinot Noir 2013

Similar characteristics to the Calera, albeit slightly less complex and less polished. While the Monterey County source for the fruit is unknown, it could come from the area close to or similiar to the Hollister Mt Harlan site of Calera. This provides good QPR (quality price ratio) with similarity to the Calera at a fraction of the price.

Garnet colored, medium light bodied, aromas and flavors of red raspberries and black cherry give way to tones of tangy clove spice and hint of cinnamon on the clinging tannin finish. 

RM 87 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2163001

Sunday, August 2, 2015

Anniversary and birth year labels highlight celebration dinner

Fun with wine - Anniversary and birth year labels highlight celebration dinner

For a gala family reunion celebration dinner we opened some commemorative Anniversary labels and a special birth year wine for the special occasion.  Sister Jan and her family came in from So-Cal for the family gathering. We celebrated a 35th and 40th anniversary, a milestone 90th birthday, recent birth of grandson Richard Reid, and upcoming marriage of niece Krysta.

For the occasion we opened a selection of Napa Sonoma Cabernets - a magnum of bride-to-be Krista's birth year 1989 Silver Oak, a 35th Anniversary label Keenan Spring Mtn, and Caymus commemorative 40th Anniversary 1 Liter Napa Estate Cabernets.

We held the dinner at Theo's Steakhouse in Highland. DJ and the rest of the Theo's staff did a spectacular job accommodating our BYOB wine, serving our group of fourteen, and the dinner preparations were superb - meeting or exceeding our expectations in every respect.

An unexpected special treat of the evening was the performance of the live entertainment whose repertoire appealed to and was enjoyed by all four generations in our group.

We started the evening with a champagne toast from a white sparkler from the winelist. The featured red wines were a journey and presentation of the contrast of diverse styles, terroir, profiles and vintages of Napa / Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines were a perfect accompaniment to the salad with accent blue cheese, grilled steaks, and chocolate layer cake finale.

Perhaps entering the finale stages of its prime drinking window, the more modest and muted style of the Sonoma Alexander Valley were a sharp contrast to the full throttle big bold expressive '12 Caymus and the more complex Keenan Spring Mountain Cabs.


Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1989 (Magnum)

My cellar records indicate that we hold fifteen different vintages of this label dating back to the eighties so this is a wine we know well and enjoy often.

Continuing a tradition of large format bottles for special family occasions, I pulled and brought this birth year magnum from the cellar. At twenty six years, this was showing its age in the rust brickish color showing on the edges.

Muted upon opening, the expressive signature layers of 'silver' oak emerged and amplified over the course of the evening. The slightly astringent acidic black berry fruit was punctuated by a layer of leather, earthy tobacco leaf and black tea before giving way to the layer of oak that permeated the finish. This was a special bottle that showed its heritage and terroir well.

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=41259

http://www.silveroak.com/



Keenan Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 (35th Anniversary Edition Label) 

We visited Keenan Winery high atop Spring Mountain during our Napa Wine Experience 2007.

This was the most complex, balanced and polished of the three wines.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, black berry and black raspberry fruits give to way tones of tobacco and a hint of coffee turning to moderate lingering tannins on the finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2070520

http://www.keenanwinery.com




Caymus Vineyards Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 (40th Anniversary Label) 

From a special release 1 Liter bottle, by far the most popular wine of the evening was the Caymus '12.

Dark inky purple, full bodied, big brooding ripe tongue coating plum, black and blue berry fruits predominate turning to a layer of mocha chocolate with a hint of cassis on a big finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1805868

www.caymusvineyards.com

Saturday, August 1, 2015

Sizzling steak and Bordeaux on the Deck

Sizzling steak and Bordeaux on the Deck

For a delightful summer evening dinner on the deck under the bright Blue Moon at friends Beth and Bill's, Bill and I paired a duo of vintage Bordeaux to highlight the grilled steak au poivre dinner with sliced buttered potatoes and green beans with onions.

I had just dropped off a selection of wine at Winebid.com as part of a cellar thinning exercise, including an OWC (original wood case) of Chateau Clerc Milon '95. I pulled two bottles from the case to retain so I had one ready at hand to take as I headed directly over for dinner.

To pair with the Clerc Milon, Bill pulled from the cellar a Chateau Giscours Margaux 1998. This provided not only a perfect pairing with the grilled beef steak, but an interesting contrast in styles reflecting their respective terroir of Pauillac vs Margaux.

Chateau Clerc Milon Pauillac 1995

This second wine of legendary first growth Chateau Mouton Rothschild can rival its regal premier label in top vintages. Showing classic Pauillac terroir character and profile, this may be at its prime at twenty years of age.  Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, complex but nicely balanced slightly subdued black berry and black raspberry fruits accented by tones of black tea, tobacco and truffles with hints of pencil shavings and cassis on a lingering firm, gripping but smooth tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4864








Chateau Giscours Margaux Grand Cru Classe 1998

We enjoyed meeting the producer and tasting Giscours as one of the standouts of recent UGC vintage release tour tastings here in Chicago. This was an interesting study in Bordeaux terroir, a fun comparison against the Pauillac.  Dark ruby colored, medium full bodied, this showed classic Margaux floral violet aromas and flavors punctuating the bright expressive black raspberry and plum tones, showing complex but polished and balanced weight and body, accented by hints of earth and leather, turning to a lingering tongue coating powder dry soft silky tannin layer that filled the mouth with a berry-floral tone that lingered for minutes on the finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=30802

 

Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Napa vs Sonoma 2k Cabernet Duo

Napa vs Sonoma 2k Cabernet Duo

Sister Jan visiting from So-Cal prompted a mini-family reunion so we pulled a pair of 2k cabs - a Napa Valley Robert Craig Affinity, and a Sonoma Valley Arrowood for a comparison tasting with our Italian Beef dinner. Jan and bro-in-law Bill have joined us in some of our memorable visits to the Robert Craig estate high atop Howell Mountain and thus are fans and collectors of Craig Cabs, so we naturally started with a Craig Cab. Son Ryan had just recently had a vintage Arrowood Cab and wanted to try a different vintage from my vertical collection in the cellar. Hence the intersection of these two choices with these two wines. Two adjacent valleys and one varietal reveals diverse terrior and styles in this mini-horizontal tasting.

We write often here about Robert Craig Cabernets and his Affinity label representing 'three mountains and a valley,' for good QPR (quality-price-ratio) in a sophisticated Cab - Mt Veeder, Howell Mtn, Napa Valley, and Spring Mountain, or occasionally some Mount George. I might call Affinity Craig's 'flagship' or signature blend, but its priced to be more affordable than his single vineyard or single mountain designated labels from the three Mountains above. We hold or have held every vintage of this wine dating back to the inaugural release in 1993 including this fifteen year 2000 release which according to records is one of our last few remaining from this vintage.

Robert Craig Napa Valley Affinity Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

This showed more fruit, balance and complexity than recent earlier tastings. Dark purple/garnet colored, medium to full bodied, this initially opened to a slight funkiness that revealed its age, which soon burned off to a complex, polished, nicely balanced sophisticated Cabernet with forward black berry and black raspberry fruits with a layer of pleasant, sweet, spicy oak accented by hint of tobacco leaf, black tea and leather, turning to tones of black cherry on the lingering moderate tannin finish.

Still holding its own, and while it won't improve further, its probably at the end of its apex, but still well within the acceptable drinking window, again showing the age-ability of Robert Craig Cabernets.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6524

http://www.robertcraigwine.com


Arrowood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

While, as I wrote above, we hold the Robert Craig Affinity going back to 1993, we actually still hold this label going back to the 1991 vintage - the last bottle or two from a case acquired upon release back then. Records show we still hold ten vintages from that range of years.

To that end, we've enjoyed Arrowood cabs for a couple decades and consider it a benchmark best in class Sonoma Valley Cabernet, especially in this Sonoma County label which affords high QPR in a sophisticated quality Sonoma Cabernet. Like Craig above, we've enjoyed visiting the Arrowood estate in south east Sonoma Valley just north of the town of Sonoma, during our visits to the region.

Like the Craig above, this too was holding its own, and while it won't improve further, its probably at the end of its apex, but still well within the acceptable drinking window, again showing the age-ability of Arrowood Cabernets.

We find that Sonoma Cabernets generally tend to be softer, 'smaller' or lighter, and less complex that their counterparts in Napa Valley - traits that I attribute to the slightly cooler climate as part of the Sonoma terrior. This is due in part to the fact that Sonoma Valley lies to the west of Napa Valley, closer to, and a mountain range less removed from the Pacific Ocean.

This Arrowood was dark garnet colored with bright vibrant cherry, black cherry and plum fruits, with a layer of cedar (a tone that some might refer to a 'mint'), some slightly earthy leather and spice on a tangy spicy modest subdued oak, lingering tannin finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=8715

http://www.arrowoodvineyards.com/

Saturday, April 4, 2015

La Jota Howell Mtn Napa Cab Highlights Vin Chicago Holiday Tasting

La Jota Howell Mountain Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Highlights Vin Chicago Holiday Tasting

Our local wine merchant Vin Chicago (formerly Wine Discount Center) hosts a hospitable tasting of a selection of whites and reds each Saturday at their Chicagoland locations. While son Ryan and I are regulars there, I don't necessarily go out of my way to stop, sip and shop except when they feature a special wine that I want to try, as was the case today with the La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet which was the highlight of the tasting.

La Jota Howell Mountain Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

La Jota is descended from the historic La Jota Vineyard Company founded in the 1890's by Swiss immigrant Frederick Hess, who purchased 327 acres of the Mexican land grant Rancho La Jota that was founded when Napa pioneer settler George Yount obtained 4000 acres of Howell Mountain forest lands from the Mexican state proprietors in the 1840's.

Howell Mountain, forming the north end of the eastern mountain range that borders Napa Valley, was named the first official sub-appellation (American Viticultural Area (AVA)) of Napa Valley in 1983, and is considered to be one of the most distinctive terroirs, or sense of place, of the seventeen Napa appellations

 Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, complex and concentrated but balanced and approachable, showing some of that classic Howell Mountain sweet black raspberry bramble fruits, with tones of dark mocha and hints of black currant, floral, spice, earth and creosote with subdued sweet spicy oak on the firm but silky smooth polished tannin finish.

RM 93 points. 

This is my style of Cabernet, big, bold, fruity, dry, slightly sweet, tones of mocha ... characteristics of Howell Mountain which is why its one of my favorite appellations/styles ... but this was a bit too earthy for Linda.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1858261

http://www.lajotavineyardco.com/ 

Aldo Conterno Langhe Rosso 2011

Piedmont based Aldo Conterno, known for stylish, high end Barolo wines, also produces this moderate priced Langhe Rosso, made primarily from the obscure Fresia grape varietal, with smaller quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the blend. The result tastes like what Vin called a 'Barbera-meets-a-Barolo with a sense of  Bordeaux!'

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant flavors of black berry and black cherry with tones of floral, smoke, cedar, earth and dried herbs.

RM 88 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1962956

http://www.poderialdoconterno.com/



Anaba Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2012
 
I was also looking forward to trying to well rated Sonoma Coast Pinot. I often write here the challenges to finding a good, high QPR Pinot. 

Vin Chicago gave this 92 points, and The Pinot Report gave this 94 points and wrote of this wine and it's "bright cherry flavors with earth and forest floor notes". 

I agree with their assessment of its medium deep ruby color and rich ripe cherry. Unfortunately the tones that they referred to as 'earthy' and 'forest floor', were a bit too predominant and came across as a sense of 'green' or dried wet grass overshadowing the bright cherry fruit flavors. 

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1759687

http://www.anabawines.com/

Friday, March 27, 2015

Ravines Finger Lakes Dry Riesling 2013

Ravines Wine Cellars Finger Lakes Dry Riesling 2013

We went out of our way and made a point to stop at Ravines Wine Cellars on the south east shore of Keuka Lake in Central New York's Finger Lakes wine region during our 2012 Finger Lakes Wine Experience.  It was a priority visit for us since its one of the few Finger Lake producers and wines available in Chicagoland.

Ravines Wine Cellars (left) is run by the husband wife team, Morten, viticulturalist and winemaker & Lisa Hallgren, self proclaimed 'foodie'. Morten was raised in Provence region of Southern France where the Hallgren family owned Domaine de Castel Roubine, a 270 acre estate with 170 acres of vineyards and where he spent years in the vineyards learning viticulture - tending to the vines.

After earning an advanced degree in Enology and Viticulture at the renowned winemaking school, Ecole Nationale Supérieure d’Agronomie in Montpellier, he spent time working at the classic Bordeaux producer, Chateau Cos d’Estournel, under the legendary Bruno Pratts.

He came to America working for a French negociant, then at the Biltmore Estate in North Carolina before he was recruited by Willy Frank to be chief winemaker for Dr. Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars on the opposite side of Keuka Lake, the early pioneer and most established brand, who is credited with establishing serious wine production in the Finger Lakes region.

After six years at Franks, the Hallgrens purchased the 17 acre Ravines estate in 2000, named for the ravines carved out of the glacier-sculpted hillside on the Eastern slope overlooking Keuka lake (left). They source grapes from three vineyards located on the East side of Seneca Lake.

While they offer a broad line of red and white wines, from many diverse varietals (shown left), like so many Finger Lakes producers, I feel too many Finger Lakes producers are over-extended with too many varietals and labels and should stick with what they do best, that which is most suited to their terroir - climate, soil, exposure, degree days, sun days, length of growing season, rainfall, and so on. Old World producers, after centuries of experimentation and refinements have perfected matching the most suitable wine grape varietals to their unique terroir or sense of place at their locale. Certainly, this is the case in France, Portugal, and Germany - (I don't know what to make of Italy with their 500+ grape varietals - perhaps this is a reason we don't collect and specialize in Italian wines). Several Finger Lakes producers offered more than two dozen different wines.

Several times, we walked into a Finger Lakes winery where they were serving a dozen plus different wines and I asked for simply their flagship signature wine, and they didn't have one, or didn't know which one to feature.

For most of the producer's we visited, they offered almost too broad a selection of as many as a dozen or more different wines, without a highlight or showcase feature label. Ravines seemed to be less guilty of this excess than most of the others. Even then, Ravines produce Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc and a properly licensed Meritage, as well as several white wines including Gewurtraminer and Chardonnay besides the Riesling.

From all the wines, we tasted during the several days traversing the area, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and perhaps Cabernet Franc for the reds, seemed to be the varietal (s) best suited to the cooler more moderate climate of the region. We continue to buy and enjoy Ravines Dry Riesling with each new vintage release.

Tonight, for snacking while watching NCAA March Madness, with crackers and chips, Linda prepared a creative, tasty artichoke dip with chopped spinach, jalapeno, parmigiana, Greek yogurt and garlic seasoned salt, when went very nicely with this tangy Dry Riesling. 

While not elegant or sophisticated, this is a pleasant easy drinking every day white that offers reasonable QPR - quality price ration - at under $14.

I've written a great deal in this blog about wine marketing and branding. I applaud Ravine in this area with their tasteful, creative and decorative label (label) depicting the chateau (pictured top) and terrain of the estate.

Straw colored, medium light bodied, full forward flavors of grapefruit and tones of lemon and mineral with a subtle note of garden hose rubber on the mid-palate through the tart tangy focused acidity on the citrus finish.

RM 86 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1820218

http://www.ravineswine.com/

Saturday, March 21, 2015

Ridge Monte Bello, Clos du Marquis, Darioush Chardonnay highlight Surf & Turf Dinner

Ridge Monte Bello, Clos du Marquis, Darioush Chardonnay highlight Surf & Turf Dinner

L prepared grilled rib-eye steaks and lobster medallions for a wonderful surf and turf dinner. We pulled from the cellar Ridge Monte Bello Bordeaux Blend and Bill brought a Clos du Marquis. For the lobster medallions we tasted Darioush Napa Valley Chardonnay.

Ridge Vineyards are mostly known for their broad selection of single vineyard select Zinfandels from a dozen vineyards across Northern California Napa and Sonoma Counties, but their flagship premier label is this Bordeaux blend from the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA (Agricultural Viticultural Area - aka appellation).

 The Monte Bello estate and vineyard sit high above Silicon Valley in the range that separates south San Francisco Bay from the Pacific Ocean. The historic estate is the site of the legendary vineyard, and an old stone winery built by Dr. Osea Perrone back in 1892, the year of the first vintage release from the property. Today, it houses the production facility and includes a tasting room. The property was purchased in 1959 by four Stanford Research scientists who released their first Ridge Monte Bello label in 1962.  Paul Draper, winemaker to this day, joined Ridge in 1969, took over production of red wines the next year, and became winemaker in 1971.

There are 83.5 acres of vineyards on the property consisting of thirty-three different parcels sitting between 1400 and 2700 feet in elevation, which come as close as fifteen miles from the Pacific Coast, and is therefore one of the coolest Cabernet Sauvignon sites in California. The grapes here typically set, turn color, ripen and are harvested three weeks later than typical Cabernet sites in the hotter Napa, and to a slightly lesser degree, Sonoma counties.

Back in the early eighties, we lived in Silicon Valley and our house was up against the foothills in the tony town of Saratoga, down in the corner of Silicon Valley, below the Santa Cruz viticultural area on the Bay side of the range. Our home sat on what at one time were vineyards, and moreso, apricot orchards, which eventually gave way to the sprawl of development in the bustling high tech region of suburban San Jose.

Monte Bello has been called an American 'first growth' and is known for bold, complex, long lived Bordeaux style wines. While 1998 was considered an 'off' year in Napa and Sonoma Counties, the Santa Cruz AVA, ninety miles to the south was not so afflicted. This was our second to last bottle from a case we purchased on release and based on this tasting, we need not be in a hurry to consume the final bottle.

At seventeen years, this showed no diminution from age and may be at the apex of its drinking window, not likely to improve any with further aging, but no need to rush to consume remaining bottle (s).

Dark purple garnet colored, medium to full bodied, initially a bit obtuse and acidic, but softened and opened after decanting and sitting for an hour, full, moderately expressive black berry and plum fruits, complex, nicely polished, accented by subtle tones of  pencil shavings, tobacco leaf, violets, and hints of bell pepper and anise with moderate smooth silky tannins on the finish. It would be overstated to characterize it as 'earthy' but there is a layer of complexity that reflects the storied terroir and reveals the care of 47%  selection and the rigorous thinning that results in extremely selective, low yields of less than 1 1/2 tons per acre. In the classic left bank Bordeaux style, the blend is Cabernet Sauvignon 70%, Merlot 24%, Petit Verdot 5%, and Cabernet Franc 1%.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3557

http://www.ridgewine.com/Vineyards/Monte%20Bello


Clos du Marquis 2004

This is the second wine of the classic Leoville Las Cases St Julien, Bordeaux, one of my absolute favorite Bordeaux and overall wines.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, moderate black currant/berry and black cherry fruits accented by floral tones give way to tones of leather, tobacco, hints of dried herbs and re-emergence of black cherry with moderate tannins on the finish. Not a fair fight perhaps as it was overshadowed against the more complex and bigger Monte Bello.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=92447

http://www.domaines-delon.com/en/leoville-chateau_leoville_las_cases_histoire.html 




Darioush Napa Valley Chardonnay 2008

For the lobster medallion accompaniment I pulled this Chardonnay from the cellar. We first discovered Darioush when Bill and Beth hosted us at a wine dinner at Cress Creek Country Club a dozen years ago and we had the Darioush Cabernet. That was the beginning of our extraordinary wine friendship.

Darioush has since been the feature of several wine dinners, a special winery visit with barrel tasting, and a spectacular winemaker dinner at Everest Restaurant in Chicago. So I favored this Darioush selection for our dinner tonight. I normally don't get excited about a white wine but this was one of the highlights of our surf and turf dinner - a perfect accompaniment to lobster medallions and the salad.

We visited the winery during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2003. Their fabulous winery and tasting facility on Silverado Trail in southern Napa Valley was not yet open but was well under construction at that time

We attended the gala Darioush - Domaine de Chevalier Gala Wine Dinner, a fabulous private dinner hosted by Darius & Shaptar Kaledi of Darioush Winery and Bernard Laborie of Domaine de Chevalier at Everest restaurant in Chicago in the summer of 2004.

The Darioush was butter colored, medium bodied, crisp and clean, initially slightly forward overtly acidic with tones of oak, but after an hour it settled down and was smooth, polished and balanced with pleasant  layers of fruit - subtle pear, lychee, melon and slight hint of citrus and vanilla with just the right accent of soft smooth oak.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1081544

https://www.darioush.com/