Showing posts with label beef. Show all posts
Showing posts with label beef. Show all posts

Friday, January 1, 2016

Freemark Abbey Cabernets 1997 Vintage Horizontal Tasting Dinner

Freemark Abbey Cabernets 1997 Vintage Horizontal Tasting Highlights Festive Holiday Celebration Dinner

The 1997 vintage was the theme for festive New Year's Eve dinner hosted by friends and fellow 'pour boy' Bill and Beth C, with Freemark Abbey being the headliner. Bill dipped in to his vertical collection to pull 1997 vintage bottles of Freemark Abbey Bosché and Sycamore Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignons. From our cellar I brought the Estate from the same vintage. And, to round out the horizontal tasting, I also brought a 1997 vintage Cornerstone Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon. The results were an amazing tasting experience.

Beth prepared a wonderful delicious dinner of beef tenderloin, cream spinach and onions, wild rice pilaf and corn pudding.

At this point, I should ask forgiveness for my obsessiveness in this analysis of these tasting results. This is what makes wine tasting fun for geeks like me (us), and perhaps so mysterious or annoying for the 'un' or less interested pedestrian bystander. This leads to, and is fed by deep and long experience in tasting these wines over a period of, and of wines from, literally, decades of time and vintages.

We've visited the Freemark Abbey winery and met the winemaker and owners on numerous occasions. Tonight's tasting will add another chapter in our many memorable experiences and stories of tasting Freemark Abbey wines.


The results of our tasting were so consistent, I had to check my palate discrimination to see if perhaps I was impaired from medications I am taking from recent oral surgery.

Remarkably, all four Cabs exhibited a similar tasting flavor profile and signature, aligned serially in a gradation of weight and firmness along the same plane.

Also, interestingly, all four wines exhibited the same aging state or condition relative to the effects of their aging, being from the same vintage, and having had the same provenance. Indeed, upon opening, all four of the corks showed identical near perfection in their condition - still moist, firm, and clear of any diminution or seepage whatsoever - a testament to Bill's and our cellars and handling!

There is also a commentary here on the 1997 vintage and its ageability - all the wines showed 2015 as beyond or nearing the end of their drinking window. Yet, none of the wines were beyond their prime and were well within their drinking window, albeit none will likely improve with further aging at this stage of their life. The much heralded, arguably over-rated vintage is still drinking well at eighteen years, and may just now be revealing its true and native character.

The tasting profile for all four Cabs was remarkably consistent - firm, tight concentrated black currant fruit predominating accented with tones of black raspberry, tea and graphite highlights. Only the Estate Cabernet deviated with tones of bright cherry and red fruit competing with the black currant layer. None of the wines showed any diminution or adverse effects from their eighteen years in bottle aging.

All four Cabernets were concentrated, firm, tightly wound with bright focused fruits with gradations along the plane in terms of firmness, tightness and smoothness or polish. The order from low to high in relative weighting were: Estate, Sycamore, Bosché, then Cornerstone.

Perhaps what is even more remarkable is the fact that while three of the Cabs are from the same producer and label, two are from specific vineyards, the only common element being the vintage. It is possible that some of the same fruit from Bosche and Sycamore are blended into the Estate, but not likely much between the two. But, there is no explanation aside common vintage for the similarity between the Cornerstone and Freemark Abbey offerings.

All that said, paradoxical to the tasting observations was the lack of consistency in the color of the four wines, which was very diverse indeed, from ruby colored to dark garnet to inky black - yet with the same taste profiles as noted, across the range.

As always, I write these notes and set these conclusions based on memory, and our shared perceptions or interpretations expressed during the tasting session, but with no forethought, bias or influence from third party ratings or rankings. Only after I produce this commentary do I go back and review and compare other notes on the wines. Remarkably, my conclusions here are bolstered by and consistent with the community of contributors to Cellartracker and beyond.

The Cabernet flight:

Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Medium bodied, deep ruby colored, bright vibrant expressive cherry fruit highlighted by tones of black currant and black raspberry, hints of black tea, tobacco, graphite and notes of anise and oak on the lingering moderate tannin finish.
RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2231

Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Sycamore Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Medium to full bodied, dark garnet colored, tightly wound and firm yet nicely balanced, smooth and polished, concentrated black currant and black raspberry fruits highlighted by tones of black tea, tobacco, kirsch, graphite and notes of cola, anise and oak on the lingering moderate tannin finish.
RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1411584

Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Bosché Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Medium to full bodied, black ink colored, complex, tightly wound, firm and concentrated yet nicely balanced, expressive black berry, black raspberry and currant fruits highlighted by tones of black tea, tobacco, graphite and notes of cola, kirsch, anise and oak with hints of mocha on the lingering moderate tannin finish.
RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=10205

Cornerstone Cellars Cornerstone Vineyard Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

The biggest of the flight, medium to full bodied, dark garnet colored, complex, tightly wound, firm and concentrated yet nicely balanced, expressive black berry, black raspberry and currant fruits highlighted by tones of black tea, tobacco, graphite and notes of anise and oak on the lingering firm tannin finish.
RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1416835

There was some interesting confusion regarding this bottle. Based on my cellar records that showed this as Cornerstone Howell Mountain Cabernet 1997, I had advised Bill that was what I would bring to dinner. My records also showed that I had already consumed Cornerstone Vineyard Oakville Cabernet 1997 as well as bottle (s) of Cornerstone Cellars Beatty Ranch Vineyard Cabernet 1997. Since the bottle was wrapped in original packaging tissue paper, I didn't see the actual label until its unveiling at dinner tonight when it turned out to be this Cornerstone Vineyard variant. I have some other Cornerstone 1997 Cabernet (s) in the cellar, also wrapped in tissue. I now wonder which variant they are. 

Leading up to dinner, Bill served two releases, variations of 2012 Sea Smoke Sea Spray Santa Rita Hills Pinot Blend Sparkling Wine - 'standard' label and a follow on LD - 'late disgorged' label. Starter courses included shrimp cocktail and a medley of three artisan cheeses with crackers and biscuits. 

What an interesting comparison in two release variations of this label, revealing much greater diversity than one might expect. Bill's notes on the two offerings. 

Sea Smoke Sea Spray Blanc De Noir L. D. (Late Disgorged) Santa Rita Hills Pinot Blend Sparkling Wine 2012 

"Drank this along side last years original 2012 Sea Spray and the difference was a huge surprise. The LD was drier, more polished and complex, building on the fruit and brightness of the original 2012. Definitely my preferred style."

WC 92 points. 



Sea Smoke Sea Spray Blanc De Noir Santa Rita Hills Pinot Blend Sparkling Wine 2012

"Consistent with earlier notes, this opens with light strawberry and cherry on thepalate with a bit of toast on the finish. What was interesting is that we drank side by side with the newly arrived Sea Spray 2012 Late Disgorged. Surprisingly there was a noticeable difference with the LD showing more polish and complexity. The LD was drier for a start and had an additional yeasty layer that I believe, created the polish. The LD was definitely my preferred style and I was quite surprised by the difference."
WC 89 points. 

Bill is more discerning and discriminating in reviewing these wines. While the difference was certainly discernible, my rating for the standard label would have been only a point, maybe two, less than the LD follow on.

Following dinner, Beth served chocolate cake and chocolate pecan pie. With the dessert course, Lyle brought and served Two Hands Lily's Garden Mclaren Vale Shiraz 2012, a great accompaniment to the course. We love this style of wine and with its full bodied, rich, concentrated thick tongue coating fruit, it can be a meal all in of itself! I would have loved to have tasted this opposite the cheese course and salad, to focus on the intense fruits. But the Sea Smoke was great there too. A wealth of riches tonight in our selection on offer.

 Two Hands Lily's Garden McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012

To say these wines are big is such an understatement, but hyperbole doesn't due justice to this big bruiser with its 16.5% alcohol. From the Two Hands super-premium, single vineyard collection, this classic McLaren Shiraz is named after producer co-owner Michael Welftree's daughter Lily born in August 2001. With our affinity for, and appreciation for such devotion and family orientation, I'll cast a different lens on this label in the future.

Big, full bodied, dark inky purple color, plush, rich, concentrated thick tongue coating, black and blue berry fruit compote and coulis accented by a layer of spice, gravelly mineral, tones of mocha and black pepper with oak on the chewy tannin laced lingering finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1795068

Thursday, December 24, 2015

Aged Liparita Merlot Magnum for Christmas Tenderloin Dinner

Aged Liparita Merlot Magnum for Christmas Tenderloin Dinner

Christmas surf & turf dinner classic whites and medley of reds

Ryan and Linda took lobster tails to complement Erin's beef tenderloin (left) for a surf and turf Christmas eve dinner and the large family gathering offered a chance to open a large format Magnum and open some classic and favored whites.

I took an aged 1996 Liparita Howell Mountain Merlot in 1.5 liter magnum and Ryan brought Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2008. I added a Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc while Ryan brought remains of previously opened Chateau Canon-le-Gaffeliere and Lewis Cellars Family Ethan's Syrah to round out the flights.

Large gatherings call for large bottles as there is much fun in opening large format bottles for such occasions. Vintage wines tend to age better - longer and more gracefully in large format bottles, and this may have contributed to the approachability of this aged 1996 Napa Merlot.

Liparita Napa Valley Howell Mountain Merlot 1996

While it isn't chronicled on my Winesite, I recall we visited Liparita and tasted this with winemaker Gove Celia from barrel at the Oakville crush facility during one of our Napa trips back in the late nineties.

My previous note for this wine was in 2011 and cited subdued fruit that was still holding. Remarkably, tonight the fruit was bright, vibrant and forward, continuing to hold, accented by aromas and flavors of anise/licorice.- dark inky purple color - medium bodied - aroma's and tastes of floral, flavors of slightly flabby but pronounced cherry and plum fruits with subtle spice, tobacco leaf, leather and anise on a tannic cherry laced short finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=189831

Note, while it is the same branding, this is not the same producer or wine team as the current Liparita label. 

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Stags Leap District Sauvignon Blanc 2011 

This remains one of our favorite Sauvignon Blancs - a varietal that is most true to its origins, and least subject to adulteration or enhancement in the winemaking. 

Our visit and tasting at the Cliff Lede Stag's Leap District Vineyard & Winery  was one of the highlights of our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2009.

This was a perfect accompaniment to the grilled lobster tails with drawn butter. Light straw colored, crisp and clean bright acidity with smooth nicely balanced complex aromas and flavors of pear, peach, lychee fruit, with a layer of lime zest with a flinty minerality on a lingering finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1346624


Lewis Cellars Napa Valley Ethan's Syrah 2012 


I love featuring Lewis family wines, named for family members, at family events with the classic 'L' on the label for Linda and Lucy, and with the Lewis Indy 500 racing heritage back in our home state of Indiana. So, I was delighted that Ryan had this open from the previous evening and saved some for us to taste with the dinner.

This is our favorite profile for a Syrah. Linda loves this style of big rich chewy black and blue berry fruits.

Dark inky purple, full bodied, rich, concentrated thick chewy tongue coasting black and ripe blue berry fruits with layers of accent tones - licorice, brown spice and graphite. We hold this in the cellar and can't wait to feature this in a tasting all its own.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1889084

http://www.lewiscellars.com
 

Château Canon-la-Gaffelière 2006

Label from 2005
We've enjoyed meeting the producer and tasting this wine at the UGC US release tour tasting events in Chicago over the years and appreciate them coming to Chicago to showcase their label.

This is one of Ryan's favorites and he is collecting a vertical of this wine in his cellar. He had this open from the previous evening and he saved some of this to bring to comparison taste with our dinner.

This bottle did not hold up well the following day and hence this may not be a fair evaluation. The fruit was quite subdued, almost suppressed - dark garnet colored, medium bodied, black berry and black cherry fruit giving way to tones of anise, herbs, tobacco leaf, leather, and graphite. I'll withhold rating as neither of us believe this was a representative example of this label.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=700284


50% Merlot
45% Cab Franc
5% Cab Sauv



More to come ...





Del Dotto Cabs Stolpman Syrah for Beef Tenderloin Holiday Dinner

Del Dotto Cabs and Stolpman Syrah for Beef Tenderloin Holiday Dinner

For our family holiday dinner, son Ryan went down in the cellar and pulled two producer family wines from two vintages commemorating anniversaries for him and daughter/sister Erin, 1999 and 2001. These two big bold Napa Cabs were ideal to taste with Linda's beef tenderloin dinner. I was eager to try this comparison tasting and expected the 2001 Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon to be at or near its apex, but I had forgotten about and was pleasantly surprised at the resilience shown by the '99. Ryan brought a big bold Stolpman Santa Ynez Valley Syrah to share.

For the starter course I had pulled one of our favorite Napa whites, a vintage Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc, but Ryan pulled a current release Hanna Sauvignon Blanc to try first. This is currently on offer at our local wine shops and we wanted to try it see if we should buy more.

Del Dotto is one of our favorite Napa producers and represents the distinctive Rutherford appellation terroir. We hold more than a dozen vintages of Del Dotto going back to their earliest inaugural vintages in the early nineties. We've visited Del Dotto many times in our Napa trips and have featured Dave and Yolanda Del Dotto at several of our wine producer dinners. We got to know the next generation of Del Dottos, and their son Giovanni, for whom their Giovanni's Tuscan Reserve is named, also attended IU, the alma mater for no fewer than thirteen degrees conferred on members of our extended family. See our Del Dotto features on unwindWine.com including Del Dotto - Napa Valley Napa Wine Experience 2003 and Napa Wine Experience 99 to mention a few. 

Del Dotto's cave tours remain one of the most colorful and entertaining of all Napa Valley tasting excursions. Our kids cite Del Dotto as one of the highlights of their Napa Valley wine trips as well. Their spectacular winery and cellar tour right on Route 29 at Zinfandel Lane as you enter St Helena from the south are a must see during a visit to Napa Valley. So it is fitting to enjoy this wine together at a family gathering.

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

This wine opened with bright racy tones and 'settled' over the course of an hour and a half to be more approachable and polished. This was consistent with my tasting notes from a special dinner back in January of this year. "This 1999 vintage was the artwork of legendary winemaker Nils Venge crafted from Rutherford appellation fruit. At sixteen years, this is a testament to the aging potential of this label as it is still full, firm and vibrant and is just starting to show its age as tones of earth, leather, and tobacco are starting to set in. These tones turned to bright floral note after being open an hour.'

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, firm gripping forward black berry fruits laced with that classic Rutherford dust, complex but nicely balanced with intense dark cherry, black currant and blackberry fruits, a layer of cedar and spicy tangy oak on a lingering finish of tight structured tannins. This was a great complement to the beef tenderloin that matched well with the wine's complexity."

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=616988


Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2001


Like the '99, this is drinking at the apex of its drinking window and demonstrates the longevity of Napa Valley Cabernets. While it will not likely improve any further with aging, it still has several years to go at this level. This was actually more subdued than the more vibrant '99.

Medium to full bodied , deep dark ruby color - black berry and sweet black cherry fruits accented by clove spice and a hint cassis and whisper of English toffee on the 'Rutherford Dust' moderate silky tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

This same wine is featured in their extraordinary Connoisseurs Series in which they age the same wine in a variety of oak cooperages to highlight the different oak influences on the wine. We featured a horizontal tasting of the 2001 Del Dotto Connoisseur Series last year as listed on unwindWine.com site

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=485814

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/

Stolpman Vineyards "Hilltops" Santa Ynez Valley Syrah 2011

Ryan brought this over, the remains of a bottle he had opened earlier. A totally different style and tasting profile from the more elegant and complex Cabernet Sauvignons, this was narrower but deeper, bolder and bigger, in your face fruit forward style. We love this style of wine but normally reserve these for barbecue, bold bright pasta dishes or hearty cheeses.

Dark red-ruby, full bodied, aromas of floral and mocha, complex, concentrated big, forward black and blue fruits, tones of anise/licorice, tones of mocha chocolate and herbs, turning to a very long soft savory fruit filled finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1652929

http://www.stolpmanvineyards.com


Tuesday, December 22, 2015

Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur 2005

Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur 2005 with Beef Roast Dinner


Another holiday dinner feast featuring beef roast and mashed potatoes (below) calls for another mid aged Bordeaux. The benefit of having a wine cellar is the ability to pull and pop a ten year old for such an occasion. This is a lesser appellation label that offers high QPR - Quality Price Ratio, over the more popular high profile Bordeaux labels. It was the perfect accompaniment to the beef and potato dinner.

Garnet colored, medium to full bodied, firm texture and structure, bright vibrant cherry and blackberry fruits accented by classic Bordeaux notes of cassis, leather, earth and oak turning to a lingering tangy fruit filled moderate tannin finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=212134




Saturday, December 12, 2015

Festive Holiday Dinner Showcases Premier Napa Reds

Festive Holiday Dinner Showcases Premier Napa Reds - Quintessa, Fantesca, Clark-Claudon, David Arthur

Three mountains and five hills of Napa Valley sourced the fruit for a flight of top Napa big reds.The greatest joy of having a wine cellar collection is to pull special bottles for a special occasion such as a festive holiday dinner. Tonight provided the opportunity to showcase a line-up of favorite Napa Reds with beef tenderloin. Linda prepared her delectable beef tenderloin and imaginative twice baked potatoes, brussel sprouts, hericot verts and fresh dinner rolls. I pulled decade plus one year old Napa big reds to highlight the meal. Showcasing our favored Napa mountain fruits profile, we tasted wines from three corners of Napa Valley.

I wrote recently about the distinctive Howell Mountain terroir. We featured Howell Mountain Clark Claudon, Fantesca Estate from the opposing Spring Mountain District, and a pair of David Arthur wines from Pritchard Hill in the southeast corner of the valley. To round out the flight, Bill brought from his cellar Quintessa from the geographic center of that triangle featuring its five hills estate, and David Arthur Elevation 1147. To accompany the flight, Bob brought a St Emilion Grand Cru Bordeaux.

Visits to the estate wineries of Fantesca, David Arthur and Quintessa have been highlights of several of our Napa Valley Wine Experience excursions, and Tom and Laurie Clark-Claudon were featured producers at one of Napa wine producer dinners. Indeed, we hold close to a dozen vintages of each of these producers - certainly of Clark Claudon and David Arthur, both in about their 25th year or so of production. For Fantesca, they've just finished their first decade since their 2004 inaugural release, when Duane and Susan Hoff took over the estate.

Prior to dinner, we featured a selection of artisan cheeses and Linda prepared her baked brie with toasted nuts and berry puree, accompanied by an Austrian Riesling and Italian aperitif wine.

The 2004 dinner entree flight ....

Fantesca Estate Winery Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

As mentioned, our visits to the spectacular Spring Mountain Estate of Duane and Susan Hoff have been highlights of our Napa wine excursions in 2007 and 2009. We hosted Duane at our home on one of his first release tours when he was traveling the country building the Fantesca brand. Their classic packaging with their etched glass bottles provide a festive bottle for such a gala dinner.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, at eleven years, the complex Spring Mountain bright forward fruit flavors of cherry, black berry and black currant are giving way to a layer of cassis, tobacco, black tea and hints of dark chocolate and dried herbs with a refined tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=355836

http://fantesca.com/ 



Clark Claudon Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

We hold more than a dozen vintages of this wine going back to their early releases in the mid-nineties.

Deep inky garnet colored, full bodied - aromas of ripe dark berry fruits, big mouth-full of forward complex but balanced, smooth, spicy black cherry and black currant and edge of red berry fruits, tones of cassis and dark mocha and turning to a predominant forward accent of sweet smooth sweet spicy oak on the smooth tannin finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=229261

http://www.clarkclaudon.com/ 





David Arthur Napa Valley Pritchard Hill Meritaggio 2004

As I have written in these pages, Meritage is the trademarked/licensed label attached to American releases of Bordeaux varietal blend wines. David Arthur uses creative license with this play on words to bring us 'Meritaggio', an Italian influenced Napa Valley blend of Bordeaux varietals accented by the Italian varietal Sangiovese - that associated with 'Super Tuscan' wines.

I thought this would provide an interesting comparison to the other Napa cabs, perhaps more approachable easier drinking early in the wine flight. Wow, what a surprise as this presented a big firm tight profile that ended up being the culmination (end) of the flight, with its firmness and complexity overpowering the rest of the wines.

As I update my records of this wine tasting depletion from our cellar, I realize we have a half dozen vintages of this label. I'll be mindful how to position this wine in future tastings.

This wine, a super Tuscan style blend anchored by Bordeaux varietal Cabernet Sauvignon (68%) with 12% Sangiovese made for an interesting diversion in the flight. The big full black berry and black raspberry fruits gave way to a layer of creosote with tones of dark mocha, black tea and leather with hints of vanilla and smoke on the firm gripping tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=199677

https://www.davidarthur.com/

Bill punctuated the tasting with these two bold flavorful premium Napa Cabs....

Quintessa Rutherford Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

The name Quintessa refers to the five hills on the Rutherford estate property. Our tasting at the stylish winery estate on Silverado Trail was a highlight of our Napa Wine Experience 2003.

This was lighter than expected and ended up being our opening red wine providing the transition from the pre-dinner whites to the big reds.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, smooth, elegant and polished with bright vibrant dark berry fruit flavors accented by huge floral bouquet, tones of violet, cola and hint of clove spice with tangy bright acidity on the smokey tannin laced finish.

RM 93 points.

Bill's notes from Cellartracker:

"Excellent transition wine from pre dinner whites to the heavier Napa cabs served with beef tenderloin. This was lather than I remembered. Still the same characteristics though. A hint of clove and spice on the nose. Bright plum, cassis and a bit of cherry on the palate with a medium finish. This needs at least 30 minutes of air to reveal the fruit and complexity. Was a but surprised that this did not have the same weight or body of the '04 Fantesca or Clark Claudon that followed."

WCC - 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=493471

David Arthur Cabernet Sauvignon Elevation 1147 2003 

Of course the name refers to the topographical elevation of the vineyard from which this single vineyard designated fruit is sourced.

This was our last tasting of the evening so I saved some for the next day to taste again. The huge bouquet and powerful big forward blue fruits accented by licorice stood out and punctuated this. This was summed up and consistent with my tasting notes from last year for this label:

"Elevation is flawless, extraordinary in its refined elegance and harmonious balance. While full bodied it has no sense of weight in its symphony of seamlessly integrated flavors, silky smooth and polished balance of floral, dark fruit and accent tones from start to finish - lavender, sweet ripe black and blue berry fruits, whispers of cinnamon, clove, exotic spices and tobacco leaf on the soft lingering finish. At eleven years of age it seemed to be at its apex as I can't imagine it getting any better. It was delightful and delicious. I sense I drank my earlier Elevations too early to allow them to come together so nicely."

RM 95 points. 

Bill's tasting note on Cellartracker - "Love the depth and complexity of this wine. Earthy Bordeaux like nose of moss and forest floor. Blackberry, cola and tobacco on the palate. Deep indigo color. Full bodied with a long lingering finish. I have the sense that this will not improve with more age. Tannins are fully integrated."
WCC - 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=85663

http://www.davidarthur.com/

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 76 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, 2011

Bob brought this to contribute to the flight. I've written often herein about Ninety-Plus cellars negociant practice of obtaining surplus wine for private labeling. After pouring at the St Emilion Grand Cru producer's release event in Chicago last month, its hard to imagine a private label version of any of their wines. 

Deep inky garnet, medium bodied, rather subdued aromas and flavors of blackberries with under currant of purple/blue berry fruits accented by a layer of woody pain grille, earthy cedar with tight firm gripping tannins on the finish.
RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1994433

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/wines/lot-76-saint-emilion-grand-cru-bordeaux/


Prior to dinner, we tasted a selection of whites with artisan cheeses, fresh fruit, holiday cookies and chocolates, and salad.




 



  
Freie Weingärtner Wachau / Domäne Wachau Riesling Federspiel Terrassen 2007

Straw colored, light-medium bodied, crisp clean, slightly tart citrus apple with stone fruit with bright acid finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=509866






Cavalchina Passito Veneto IGT 2004

Originally straw colored, this has turned to tea color, medium bodied, the apple fruits, subtle tangerine and hint of apricot and peach flavors have given way, overtaken by tones of burnt caramel, smoke and nut on a flavorful lingering finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=436980

Deck the Halls with Hall's Napa Cab

Deck the Halls with Hall's Napa Cab

Its always a great joy to indulge in good food and wine with friends and family. Tis the season to engage in special wines as part of the holiday festivities. One such brand I enjoy is a play on words, Hall Napa Valley wines to 'Deck the Halls' for seasonal fun. So it was that another Sunday after church dinner with family provided the occasion to open Hall Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon with Linda's beef roast dinner.

We visited Hall's tasting room in St Helena in the old days (2003), before they opened their spectacular Rutherford Estate winery site adjacent to the vineyards on the lower slopes of the Vaca Range that form the eastern boundary of Napa Valley.

Our special tasting in the caves and tasting room there (shown left) was a highlight of our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2013.

We hold Hall Napa Cabernets as well as their Sauvigon Blanc as staples in our cellar for festive wine occasions, as well as their signature Kathryn label for special vintages such as grand-kids' birth year wines (since this label didn't exist for our kid's birthyears) for related special occasions.

Hall Estate Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

We hold the remains of a case of this wine and savor every bottle as one of favorites in the style and character that we enjoy so much with our favorite foods.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, a symphony of flavors accented by bold expressive black berry and black raspberry fruits with highlights of anise and mocha with tones of cedar, sweet toasty oak and clove spice and hints of earthy leather turning to a smooth polished lingering finish.

RM 93 points.  

Consistent with my last tasting of this wine replayed below ... can't believe I waited this long to try it again!

Dark inky color, rich, dense, concentrated, style, full-bodied, fruit forward ripe sweet currant, ripe black raspberry, plum, black cherry fruits, mocha and hints of black licorice with a long soft tannin finish. Has the rich thick jammy fruit of a south Australian Shiraz." I would emphasize big, full, concentrated fruits with a firm tannic backbone. In this evening's tasting it met my highest expectations and stood over a Barossa Shiraz and Keenan Cab, was a perfect complement to New York strip steak dinner.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=761928

Sunday, May 10, 2015

Mothers Day Family Dinner Features Lewis Alec's Blend

Mothers Day Family Dinner Features Lewis Alec's Blend

To honor (wife) Linda and the mother's in our family on Mother's Day, we pulled a Lewis Alec's Blend for our gala family dinner featuring four generations of family with Mom (great-grandma), wife (grandma), daughter and daughter-in-law (moms), and two grand-daughters (and grandson).

We have fun with this branding, with its signature 'L' on the label, ala Laverne and Shirley, or Linda, or her mother Lucy, or our daughter Erin Leigh, or her daughter, our first grandchild/daughter Lucy!

Lewis wines are family favorites for such special occasions, punctuated by this namesake Blend for our son Alec. Indeed, Lewis Cabernets are some of favorites and we have a decade long vertical of Alec's as well as their Cabs, dating back to this '97. This blend is dedicated to Randy and Debbie Lewis' first grandson Alec. I believe this may be the, or certainly close to the inaugural vintage of this label/blend - its certainly the oldest I have ever seen (or tasted).

After I posted this blogpost, I went back and read my earlier review of this wine which occurred, ironically, on Mother's Day, fourteen years ago in 2001. According to that note, Lewis' grandson Alec was born on the day of the harvest of the grapes for this wine, hence the namesake!

Linda prepared a fabulous surf and turf dinner with beef tenderloin and crab legs with corn on the cob, baked potatoes and sweet potatoes, and salad. Erin also brought au gratin potatoes. For the white wine flight, we poured the remaining Brewer Clifton Chardonnay 2007 from the previous night and we opened a Meomi Napa Chardonnay 2011.

The highlight wine, Lewis Alec's Blend 1997 exceeded expectations. I was concerned about its age, the oldest tasting experience for this label, and a bit dubious based on some poor Cellartracker scores.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, it showed full, concentrated complex black raspberry and black berry fruits accented by tones of clove, mocha and hints of black tea and cedar on a spicy oak moderate tannin finish.

After our blockbuster domestic Syrah tasting the night before, it was interesting to taste this vintage Syrah which is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah, and 15% Petit Verdot. The Bordeaux varietals no doubt contribute to its longevity, impressive none-the-less, drinking this well at eighteen years. It leaves less anxious to feel compelled to drink up our vertical collection of this label.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=51612

http://www.lewiscellars.com

Saturday, February 21, 2015

French Dine and Wine in Hyde Park

French Dine and Wine in Hyde Park

We've been wanting to visit La Petit Folie in Hyde Park (Chicago) for a while and used the occasion to meet with friends Dr Dan and Linda since its about a mid-point between us. Hyde Park is the enclave on Chicago's South lakefront known for the Science and Industry Museum, Frank Lloyd Wright landmarks, and of course the University of Chicago. Soon we'll know if it is home to the Barak Obama Presidential Library, whom also happens to have his family residence nearby.

One of the neighborhood attractions to be found in a community full of culture and academia is the French Restaurant La Petit Folie. Even on a cold Chicago winter night it was a wonderful dining experience, meeting or exceeding our expectations in all respects - food, atmosphere, ambiance, value, ease of access and parking, and their hospitable BYOB wine policy.

All the starters, entrees and desserts were delicious, creative and thoughtfully prepared, presented well, and with large portions. Three of us ordered off the price fix offerings, but also supplemented our course with a additional first course from an list of enticing and delectable choices.

They have a carefully selected full wine list - all French appropriately, with 28 reds, nineteen whites and a half dozen sparkling wines and rose. They also offer a dozen and half wines by the glass to fit all categories and tastes. Their prices are reasonable with a bottle of authentic champagne available at slightly more than the four glass price at a total price of about 1.5 times retail price - the appropriate pricepoint, fair and at good value (many restaurants are at 2 or even 2.5x, sometimes more).

I called ahead to validate the BYOB corkage policy, then to accompany our dinner, I actually brought three different French selections from which to choose, for a proper pairing with our entree selections - A Right Bank and a Left Bank Bordeaux and a Chateauneuf du Pape - each bottle was twenty plus years of age.

Les Entrees

Dan and I both indulged in the pan-seared foie gras with  roasted pear, brioche toast and Belgian endive salad; Port shallot sauce. Linda (M) had the casolette of shellfish with lobster - shellfish and wild mushrooms with lobster medallions served warm over pasta al nero. Linda (A) had the goat's cheese tart with ratatouille; small salad of arugula and cherry tomatoes.

For the main course Linda A and I both had the Boeuf en Carbonnade a la Flamande - beef braised with onions, tomato and pale ale; red cabbage braised with apples, baby peas and parsley potatoes. I had preselected this from the web menu and it happened to be available from the price fixe offerings. Linda M had the Salmon Choucroute - salmon wrapped in brick pastry and served with Alsatian sauerkraut and Brussels sprouts; double mustard cream sauce.

Dr Dan had the Pork Chop Alsacienne - boneless center-cut pork chop with sauerkraut, roasted baby potatoes and warm salad of broccoli and broccoli rabi; double mustard sauce.

Desserts 

Our dessert course was the Apple Tart Tatin - the Tatin sisters' upside-down caramel apple French vanilla ice cream and three of us had the Chocolate Bombe - chocolate mousse on chocolate hazelnut torte draped in dark Belgian chocolate.

Phelan Segur Saint Estephe Bordeaux 1996 

I have enjoyed meeting the producer and tasting the recent releases of this Grand Cru at the UGC tastings in Chicago the last three years. This twenty year old is hitting its stride and may be at the peak of its drinking window, was a perfect accompaniment to the foie gras, the mushrooms and the beef flamande, not to mention the dark chocolate desert. 

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, black berry and black cherry fruits accented by floral aromas of dusty rose and violets that increased over the course of the evening, with tones of spicy black tea, smoke, and hints of graphite, tobacco leaf and hints of leather on a dark red berry fruit and floral lingering moderate tannin finish.

RM 90 points.

http://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=7279

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Red Wine 1997

Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Red Wine 1997

For a quiet mid-week solemn dinner at home with L, I pulled a time-to-drink wine that I remember we've had together on a memorable occasion - dining al fresco at Meritage French Bistro in Chicago a dozen years ago.

Consistent with last tasting in 2010 but with continuation of the effects of aging. Ruby colored, medium bodied, big floral tones predominate as the black cherry and red currant fruits are starting to give way to tones of cedar, leather and mushroom with hints of almond, vanilla, sweet spice and soft oak on a lingering smooth firm dusty tannin finish, as age is taking effect, reaching the last chapter of its aging profile.

Blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2253

http://www.quilcedacreek.com/

Saturday, January 17, 2015

Dunn Vineyards Howell Mtn and Napa Cabs 1987

Dunn Vineyards Howell Mtn and Napa Cabs Anchor Howell Mountain Flight for Festive Dinner

For a gala wine dinner, upon learning Dr. Dan was announcing daughter Hill's engagement, we pulled from the cellar 1987 birth year wines to celebrate the occasion. The feature wines were 1987 vintage Dunn Vineyards Howell Mountain and Dunn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons. This lead to a flight of Howell Mountain Cabernets as the wine theme for our dinner, which is one of absolute our favorite Napa appellation/wines.

My records show that we hold a vertical collection of sixteen vintages of Randy Dunn's classic Howell Mountain Cabernet and eighteen of the Napa Valley, going back to the 1980 vintage.  This is a suitable collectable wine as it is known for its legendary longevity, which was evidenced by tonight's tasting. Their age worthiness begs for an occasion such as tonight to open an aged vintage selection.

Meeting Randy and Kristina Dunn at the winery up on Howell Mountain was a highlight of our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience in 2008.

To round out the Howell Mountain flight, we pulled O'Shaughnessy Howell Mountain Cab and Viader Napa Valley Red Blend 2000's, and Bill brought along a Camiana Howell Mountain Cab 2007.

If we had more participants, the next likely wine in the flight would have been Clark-Claudon as we have a vertical collection spanning almost two decades of that notable Howell Mountain label as well, or a Palmaz Napa Valley Cab which is also crafted by Randy Dunn.

Adding to the Dunn Howell tasting experience was the fact that Bill just tasted the 2001 vintage at Morton's Grill in NY last weekend.

The selected course for the wine dinner was beef tenderloin, roasted gold potatoes, haricots verts, dinner salad and desserts.

Prior to dinner we had a selection of artisan cheeses with fresh fruits - apple and pear slices and mixed berries.

The cheese flight consisted of Bellavitano, Danish Blue, Smoked Gouda, and 4 year old aged white Cheddar (shown left).

Dan prepared a scampi dish and a flatbread with dates, onions, cioppino and blue cheese (see below).

The scampi and flatbread starter course, as well as the cheese flight were accompanied by a white wine flight of Lanson Brut Champagne NV, Grgich Hills Napa Valley Chardonnay 2002, Nikolaihof Wachau Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Im Weingebirge 2006, and a Mollydooker 'Violinist' Verdelho 2008. We also had open a Royal Tokaji Birsalmas 5 Petunyos.

Dan brought a Grgich Hills Napa Valley Chardonnay 2012. Ironically, I already had chilled and open the 2002 which we opted for as its time to drink being near the end of its drinking window.

We normally don't get so invested in a white wine flight but Dan's scampi and flatbreads that he brought and prepared on site warranted more attention to the pairing. The Verdelho and the Royal Tokaji were already open in the cooler, left over from an earlier tasting, and holding sufficiently to be part of the flight.

The Red Cabernet Flight

Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1987

I opened and decanted this about four hours before dinner. The cork crumbled completely requiring a further fining through a coffee filter. Having never opened a 28 year old Dunn Howell before, with the obliterated cork I was prepared for anything, but all my hopes and expectations were fulfilled as there was no sign of diminution from age whatsoever. Resembled a Left Bank Bordeaux more than a Napa Cab, dark garnet colored, full bodied, the Dunn exhibited aromas of leather, blackberry, black currants and floral tones. Complex but nicely balanced, the berry fruits were accented by a layer of leather and floral with tones of dried tobacco leaf and hints of creosote and earth on the firm but nicely integrated silky smooth tannin finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=7963

Dunn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1987 

Selection from Vertical Collection of Dunn Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignons
I opened and decanted this about four hours before dinner, but unlike the Howell, the cork was perfect, as if it were a two year old! Like the Howell, this too showed no sign of aging. Very Bordeaux like with dark inky garnet/purple colored, medium to full bodied, complex and balanced black berry fruits with tones of lead pencil, tea, tobacco and hints of cedar and leather with acidity turning to modest tannins on the moderate finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=7960
http://cellartracker.com/w?7960

 O'Shaughnessy Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

This was better than I remember and as written in an earlier journal post three years ago this week when I wrote; 'Dark inky color, full bodied, the black berry, black currant and black raspberry fruit predominate but are a bit flabby lacking the more typical depth and concentration of greater vintages, a layer of lead pencil and a slight herbaceous tone, hints of tobacco and charcoal linger on the firm tight tannins indicative of Howell Mountain terroir.'

Tonight, this bottle was more vibrant and expressive than the previous one, lacking that 'flabbiness' and having more depth and concentration than previously. This was my second favorite wine of the evening behind the Dunn Howell Mtn Cab.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=15897




 Viader Napa Valley Proprietary Red Blend 2000 

We met winemaker and principle Delia Viader and tasted this wine on a snowy early winter evening at a Viader tasting at the Chicago Lakeview  Binny's. We then visited the winery during our 2008 Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience. We hold several vintages of this wine dating back to the nineties and tonight's tasting experience puts an exclamation point on the word 'hold'. 

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, this resembled a top tier Bordeaux with its complexity, balance, integrated flavors and tasting profile, but was tight and a bit closed, begging for much more time to settle and open to reveal its true character. Dark berry and black cherry fruits were muted turning to leather, tea, hints of graphite and tobacco box. As we learned with many of our topflight Bordeaux, that we drank them too early, give it several more years.

This is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Cabernet Franc.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6703


Camiana Blue Hall Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Bill and Beth's son Matt discovered this wine and arranged for each of us to pick up a mini-vertical - 2004-2007 of this Howell Mountain Cab, which we have in the cellar.

Ironically, we also tasted this wine two years ago this week when I wrote, 'The wine is full bodied and dark inky purple color, the nose is perfumed with violets, cedar box and dusty earth; The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon flavors are complex, tight and dry, with big firm tannins masking the intense concentrated black berry and black cherry fruit accented with tobacco, hints of cassis and sweet oak. This wine is great now but should be laid down for five to 10 years.' Tonight, the fruit seemed more expressive and open, but coming across boldly, lacking finesse, balance or polish, coming across as youthful and, as written before, needing time to settle and harmonize.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1268057





The white wine flight ...

Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Im Weingebirge 2006 

Light straw colored, medium light bodied. Bright tangy citrus aromas, clean and crisp bright expressive citrus on open that turns to complex layers of white fruits - melon, pear, lychee fruit and stone, finishing with tangy mineral citrus on the palate cleansing finish.

This was the best match of the white flight with the scampi dish.

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=421066







Mollydooker Violinist Verdelho 2008

Butter colored, medium bodied, complex and intriguing, this wine from this uncommon varietal is an interesting cross between the body of a full complex Chardonnay and the crispness of a Sauvignon Blanc - full essence of pear predominates with subtle melon and tropical fruits on a firm mineral finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=566718






Grgich Hills Napa Valley Chardonnay 2002

This was a surprise bottle I found in the Chardonnay rack in the cellar but it wasn't in our cellar inventory so I pulled it to drink as its was one of the oldest and time to drink since its likely approaching the last chapter of its drinking window.

Gold colored, medium bodied, this packs complex full pear, green apple, mineral and a layer of buttery oak and bright acidity on a round finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=49190






Other pics ...

Grilled Beef tenderloin

Dr Dan's Flatbread

Dr Dan's Scampi