Maison L’Envoyé Attaché Pinot Noir

Maison L’Envoyé Attaché Pinot Noir 2012

Ryan brought this Pinot Noir over for Christmas dinner to accompany baked ham, candied yams, zuchini and cauliflower casserole.

This label, Maison L’Envoye Attaché is a project of film producer turned vintner, Mark Tarlov, founder, who was recently written up as one of the 9 People You Need To Know In American Wine Right Now. He gained notoriety in the Pinot Noir wine world with the success of Evening Land, which he co-founded and launched in 2007.

Now, Mark’s latest project, Maison L’Envoye is crafting Burgundian varietal wines focused on regional identities sourced from growers in proximity to some of the world's great producers.

Originating in Burgundy, Maison L’Envoyé crafts wines of Burgundian varietals - Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gamay Noir. Terroir-driven Pinot Noir is the flagship. Searching the world’s finest Pinot Noir sites around the globe, Maison L’Envoyé sources fruit from Burgundy, Willamette Valley in Oregon, Otaga Valley in New Zealand and Tasmania. They work with family owned growers who have farmed their vineyards for decades or generations, some in proximity to illustrious neighbors. Maison L’Envoyé was launched in 2014 and was immediately cited by Wine & Spirits naming it a ‘Winery To Watch’ in 2015. 

Maison L’Envoyé Attaché Pinot Noir 2012
 
This label was crafted by Consulting Winemaker Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, it is comprised of 100% Pinot Noir from Oregon's Willamette Valley. The valley formed by the Willamette River is sheltered from inclement weather by the western Coastal Range and the eastern Cascade Range. The grapes are sourced primarily from Yamhill-Carlton, Ribbon Ridge and the Eola-Amity Hills appellations.

The Attaché release is a barrel selection culled from both alluvial and volcanic vineyard sites. The wine was matured for ten months in French oak barriques, 20% of which were new.

Readers of this blog know I am not a Pinot guy, but I loved this wine. It's a Pinot for Pinot-philes as well as non-Pinot drinkers. Perhaps it was the ideal match with the baked ham and candied yams that I liked this so much. In any event it was delicious.

Garnet colored, light medium bodied, sprites of black cherry, bright raspberry and black currant fruits accented by mineral, dusty rose, vibrant spices and what the winemaker cites as 'hints of sassafras and gravel' turning to a silky smooth lingering finish with notes of sweet oak.

REM 93 points; this label was awarded 94 points by Wine Spectator, 94 points from Wine & Spirits, and 92 points by Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2045380

https://www.maisonlenvoye.com/

Hemingway's Oak Park BYOB BTG Dinner

Hemingway's Oak Park BYOB BTG Dinner

Culminating an event filled week with Valentine's Day, Linda's birthday and starting a new job, we celebrated with Saturday evening dinner at one of our favorite restaurants, Hemingway's Bistro in Oak Park, located in the Write Inn, a euro boutique hotel. Fittingly, Hemingway's was still decorated for Valentine's Day.

As I've written in these pages, I conduct tours as a docent interpreter at the nearby Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio, so this is a convenient dining spot following my tours.

Tonight's special was Alaskan Halibut with a mango pepper relish, rice and asparagus (shown left) which we both opted for as our entrees.

We both started with one of our favorite dishes, and draws to Hemingways - I had the Foie Gras du jour and Linda has the Tuna Tartar with avocado, cucumber and spicy aioli. The Foie Gras alone was worth the trip, absolutely delicious served with puree' of parsnip and peaches.


For the occasion, I brought BYOB from our home cellar a California Cabernet Bordeaux blend from Cloud View Napa Valley Pritchard Hill. In the end it was great with the Foie Gras but too much for the Halibut entrees and we opted for BTG (by-the-glass) selections from the wine list, a Lake Sonoma Russian River Valley Sonoma Chardonnay, and a Lemelson Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Gris.

Hemingway's offers an authentic Provencal or Parisan dining experience in all respects. As always, everything was spectacular for an intimate, dining experience - food, services, atmosphere and ambiance.

Lemelson Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Gris 2015

Bright golden butter colored, light-medium bodied, tangy crisp acidic backbone, bright pear, peach, hints of apple and melon with notes of mineral and citrus. An ideal complement to the tuna tartar and the Alaskan Hailbut.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2369756

Lake Sonoma Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2015

According to the producer, the Russian River Valley is ideal for Chardonnay due to its cool climate, from the regular infiltration of Pacific Coast fog that ebbs and flows through the Petaluma Wind Gap and up the Russian River, making the Russian River Valley one of the world’s most celebrated Chardonnay growing regions. This natural air-conditioning allows Chardonnay grapes to develop full flavor over an extended growing season while maintaining their life-giving natural acidity.  The result is a chardonnay of both character and depth.

We visited the Russian River Valley Sonoma County appellation during our wine region visit last summer.

I believe this producer sources grapes from numerous growers in the region producing a region or appellation specific, but not Estate (produced from grapes grown on the property).

This Chardonnay from Hemingway's BTG (by-the-glass) winelist was straw colored, medium bodied, with notes of citrus, hints of creme brulee, vanilla, and honey with moderate acidity and depth.

RM 88 points. 
 http://www.lakesonomawinery.com/

http://www.hemmingwaysbistro.com/

http://www.lemelsonvineyards.com/ 

Day Wines Willamette Valley Cancilla Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014

Day Wines Willamette Valley Cancilla Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014

This is a small production single vineyard designated label of just 250 cases from producer/winemaker Brianne Day of Day Wines, a natural wine producer in Oregon’s Willamette Valley AVA. She is involved in Day Camp, Willamette Valley’s newest winemaking cooperative, a collective home of eleven small producers, including Day Wines,

Day has lived in the Willamette Valley since she was 16 where she was attracted to the orderliness and vibrancy of the vineyards which she found exotic.

While working as a bookkeeper in her 20's, she saved money to  travel throughout the world’s wine regions. For almost two years she explored wine regions and their wines learning as much as she could with a the intent on becoming a winemaker. After studying in Community College she  worked in France, New Zealand and Argentina, before returning to Oregon and to work in and learn the wine business. She  worked for producers The Eyrie Vineyards, Brooks Winery, Grochau Cellars, Belle Pente, and Scott Paul and at Storyteller Wine Company where she learned the retail side of the wine world. She worked as a server and sold barrels for Bordeaux cooperage, Saury, which introduced her to many winemakers throughout the Willamette Valley.

In 2012, she was offered the chance to buy fruit from a friend's family’s vineyard. She did so and started out making 125 cases of single vineyard Pinot Noir that gained the attention of distributors in Chicago and New York City. Since that first vintage, Day Wines has grown from 125 cases in 2012 to 5,000 cases in 2017 and are now distributed in twelve states and three countries.

Fruit for this label is sourced from Cancilla Vineyard, owned and organically dry farmed by Ken Cancilla. The vineyard, identified as source to several producers' labels, is a 20 acre former Christmas tree farm just north of the Yamhill-Carlton AVA in the north-western Willamette Valley. The vineyard sits close to the Coast Range, exactly halfway between Tillamook and Portland. This proximity provides access to coastal rain water.

This 2015 vintage year was exceptionally warm producing especially ripe fruit. The resulting wine was noted by the winemaker as robust and full, with acid & tannins and spicy and floral aromas and flavors in the wine like cinnamon, sweet spices, and black pepper.

Day Wines Willamette Valley Cancilla Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014

This was opaque garnet colored, medium bodied with dusty rose, leather and tangy black cherry tones accented by notes of cinnamon spice and pepper.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2238946 

http://www.daywines.com/

Soléna Grande Cuvée Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2012

Soléna Grande Cuvée Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2012

Tasted from 375 half bottle with grilled burgers on the patio. Not enough meat on the bone of this lighter Pinot for beef-burgers. Should've saved this for a lighter fare, perhaps. Consistent with previous quests in search for a moderate priced high QPR (quality price ratio) Pinot Noir - the search continues. This is my first encounter with this producer who boasts a broad portfolio of labels.

Ruby colored, light medium body, a bit awkward flabby structure, black cherry, strawberry and cherry cola tones with slight tangental non fruit tones of herbs, grass and leather turning to a slightly acidic moderate tannin finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1755477

Benton Lane Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir for Easter Dinner

Benton Lane Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2011 for Easter Dinner

I write often here about wine marketing and branding. Benton Lane have done a masterful job establishing an identity with their unique creative postage stamp styled labels. The metaphor works in creating an identity for the brand as well as allowing for multiple varietal offerings via the multi-color selections, as well as for the classification of vintages. The metaphor also works well for premium labels with the 'First Class' designation for select labels.

The Benton Lane family of labels as shown in their 'stamp' collection:

Benton-Lane derives its name from its location straddling the border between Benton and Lane counties in North-western Oregon. Lane is one of two counties to extend from the Pacific coast to the Cascade Mountain range. The Benton-Lane Estate is known as Sunnymount Ranch, named such since is is sunnier than the surrounding area due to its proximity in the shadow of some of the highest peaks in the coastal range, which tend to catch the marine cloud layer that flows in from the Pacific Ocean, in what climatologists call the “rain shadow”. The sunny slopes allow for earlier ripening of grapes increasing the chances of a complete harvest before the fall rains set in.

Steve and Carol Girard founded Benton-Lane when they purchased the property in 1988 and began planting Pinot Noir in 1989. Today the property comprises 138 acres in twenty-two different vineyard blocks predominantly planted to Pinot Noir of 7 different clones suitably matched to each sections terroir.

Benton-Lane’s first vintage was in 1992 and they produced Pinot Noir exclusively until 2003, when they expanded into small quantities of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc.

Benton Lane offer the distinction of a high QPR - quality price ratio in a modest/moderate priced Pinot Noir, a rare find, as I often write in this blog. I first discovered Benton Lane in a fine dining restaurant and have been a fan since.

Today we opened Benton Lane Pinot Noir 2011 for our Easter baked ham dinner.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied with predominant dusty rose and spicy black cherry, tones of rhubarb, strawberry and hints cranberry with tones of cassis and red licorice, with a smooth tangy modest tannin finish.

This was a perfect complement to our Easter dinner of baked ham with cherry compote, potatoes au-gratin, potato egg fritata with sweet and  jalapeno  peppers and scallions, and chocolate cheese blintzes with fresh berries, baked rolls and a fresh fruit plate.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1657893

http://www.benton-lane.com/

Herbert Triebaumer Ruster Ausbruch Burgenland Neusiedlersee-Hügelland Rust 1996/1997

This is a Chardonnay blend of Fürmint and Gelber Muskatellier (Furmint and Gold Muscatel grape varieties). Tonight this was tea colored, while it was likely straw or butter colored upon release, over time it darkened to butter color, then weak tea colored, eventually darkening to the dark orange rust color it possesses now. Allowed to continue to age, this will likely eventually darken to dark strong tea color, although I suspect it won't necessarily improve the flavor and suitability of the wine. Some classic dessert wines are built to last decades, I suspect this Ruster Ausbruch nearing twenty years is at or even past its peak drinking window. We still have a case of this wine, so watch this blog as we monitor this over the coming months and years.

The thick almost syrupy extracted sweet fruit has been offset by a smoky almond nut flavor. Rather than the highly desirable apricot or peach flavors, this tended to be more cirtus focused. This was also a nice complement to Baked Ham and the Chocolate Cheese Blintzes.

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1455246

Conn Valley Anthology Highlights Capital Grill Board Room Dinner

Conn Valley Anthology Highlights Capital Grill Board Room Dinner 

For an important client dinner, we dined in the Board Room at the Capital Grill in Chicago. Readers of this blog know that I place high emphasis on the wine and food combination pairings, coupled with value, and hence choose the restaurant and my entree based on the winelist selections, offset or influenced by the corkage policy. That said, one would be right to infer that I lost the vote (or deferred to rank) on the restaurant selection to dine at Capital Grill this evening. Sorry Jared.

I find it more than a bit irritating that they don't publish a more complete list online to aid the diner in advance dinner planning. While this may be okay for a personal social outing or impromptu dinner, I believe an important client business dinner warrants and deserves better info for appropriate planning. 

Capital Grille tout their winelist as "having more than 350 world-class wines ....  hailing from nearly every wine growing region on earth. Old World and New World gems, little-known labels on the brink of stardom, and a Captain’s List featuring some of the world’s most celebrated wines." The Sommelier  Selections they feature on their website are very limited and mostly uninspiring wines.

While this description of their wine offerings may be technically correct, it leaves an impression of depth and breadth in a wine selection. I consider it rhetoric as I don't think it offers either, unless you look at California Bordeaux varietals - Cabernet, Merlot and Blends. The European and ROW (rest of world) selections are very limited.

Perhaps this limited selection would be acceptable for the serious wine drinker if it was selective in signature wine offerings -  those that are at the critical intersection of 'reasonably' priced and delectable wines. Naturally if you can afford $200 for a bottle, then you can find a pleasant impressive sipper. I find it hard to pay $110-125 for a mediocre uninspiring wine. Sure, the winelist is filled with many of my cellar favorites that I own and enjoy at home and am pleased to serve guests, but those wines that cost $40 to $50, the mainstay of my and many serious consumer cellars, but those wines cost $150 or more on the CG winelist.  Even on a business expense account, I find this difficult to justify.

Again, as is typically the case, I cant afford to drink my own cellar in most fine dining restaurants.

This angst is exacerbated by the vintage selections, or lack thereof.  I carefully selected a quality classic, favored Napa Valley mainstay label, Joseph Phelps, Cab 2010, but they were out of this vintage and tried to sell an alternate.

I craftily selected from the Captains List a unique boutique label - a single vineyard designated Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir 2011, winning out over a colleague's preference, Domain Drouhin 2011. I discovered Ken Wright during my years commuting to a large software firm in suburban Seattle back before the millennium. In the end, we were served a 2012, and while I thought this would be a great discovery to share with colleagues, it turned out to be a disappointment - certainly not worthy of a Captain's List feature selection.

In the end, we did discovered a gem on the Captain's winelist that was a huge hit. Even then, we captured the last two bottles, so this will not available on our next visit, or to the next diner.

Our server was apologetic and noted they will soon be offering a interactive tablet based virtual winelist. Perhaps this will result in greater accuracy and currency in the data, but it won't address the selection and pricing challenges or concerns.



Ken Wright Cellars Carter Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012

I hold several of these wines going back to the turn of the millennium when I discovered it in the Pacific Northwest. I distinctly remember a tasting featured in my wine journal with a wine post for the 1997 vintage of this wine tasted back 1999.

Located in rural Carlton, Oregon, near the farm of a dear friend, Ken Wright Cellars specializes in featuring quality select vineyard designated wines - most notably Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with special emphasis on Pinot which they believe is best at reflecting the unique character of the location where it is grown - terroir.

Ken Wright sources fruit from nearly a dozen sites in the Northern Willamette Valley, known especially for outstanding  Pinot Noir. Compared to other Pinot Noir regions around the world, the region is extremely cool, offset by a long growing season. The Wright Cellars source Pinot Noir vineyards span five different appellations or AVAs including well know Dundee Hills, McMinnville, the Coastal Range and this one, Eola Hills.

Tonight's selection is from the Carter Vineyard near Canary Hill in the Eola Hills AVA and features mature vines planted back in the mid-eighties. Sited low on the hillside at just 325 feet elevation,  the leaner, less fertile soil stresses the vines to produce more concentrated extracted fruit. Carter Vineyard wines tend to be firmer than Canary Hill when young, then age nicely to reveal darker vibrant earthy fruits.

This wine in recent years has been highly acclaimed with rave reviews. Tonight the 2012 vintage of this wine was lean and astringent lacking balance and polish and coming across rather flabby, ruby colored, light bodied, cherry and hints of cranberry with a layer of earthy dusty rose on the tangy spicy moderately tannin finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1499592

http://kenwrightcellars.com/
 

Conn Creek Napa Valley Anthology 2010

This was a big blockbuster stand-out hit, enjoyed by all. When finished, rather than switching to another bottle for a comparison tasting, which I would normally do, we had a second bottle, which happened to be their last. It was smooth, polished and nicely balanced which is a bit surprising given the blend of all five Bordeaux varietals was sourced from no less than twenty-one different vineyard sites across the range of diverse Napa Valley appellations.

The Blend:
 - Cabernet Sauvignon, 78% from Atlas Peak (Stagecoach), Calistoga (Surber & Frediani), Stags Leap District, St. Helena (Collins), and Spring Mountain (Crowley)
 - Petit Verdot, 8% from Napa Valley (Rodeno)
 - Cabernet Franc, 7% from: St. Helena (Carpenter), Atlas Peak (Stagecoach)
 - Merlot, 4% from Atlas Peak (Stagecoach)
 - Malbec, 3% from Yountville (Herrick


Medium bodied, dark garnet colored, rich, nicely balanced symphony of smooth soft sweet black berry and black raspberry fruits highlighted by layers of vanilla mocha, cinnamon, and sweet spicy oak, with silky fine grained tannins on a smooth polished lingering finish.
 
RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1392790

https://www.conncreek.com/Wines/anthology/2010-anthology

https://www.thecapitalgrille.com/

Shea Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2009

Shea Wine Cellars 'Estate' Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2009

Since 1996 Dick & Deirdre Shea have been producing a range of vineyard and block designated select Pinot Noir labels sourced from their large 200 acre Yamhill-Carlton estate in Oregon's Willamette Valley. Previously, they had already developed a reputation as growers of some of the finest Pinot Noir fruit in Oregon providing fruit to more than 20 producers including Penner-Ash, Ken Wright, and St. Innocent. Most of their clients bottle their Shea sourced wines under vineyard designated labels, more often than not, they are the best wine in their respective portfolios and the ones that sell out the most quickly. The Shea's keep about 25% of the fruit they produce for their own bottlings. Today their wines are made by the talented Drew Voit and the vineyards are managed by Javier Marin.

This 2009 Pinot Noir Estate label bottling is blend sourced from each of their vineyard blocks. It consists of fruit across their vast vineyards with their variety of topographies and exposures. It was awarded 94 points from Wine Spectator and a "Highly Recommended" designation.

Dark garnet colored and medium bodied, the complex black cherry and black raspberry fruits were a bit muted, overshadowed by notes of bacon, cedar, rose petal, smoke and spice box. Smooth and textured it finishes with supple lingering tannins.  I found it to be a bit tight and closed, perhaps going through a period needing some more age before it reveals its true character and potential. May need a couple more years.

Interestingly, I read this comment from a noted reviewer about the 2010 vintage. "It should be worth following for at least the better part of a decade and will probably open up and display greater complexity after another 2-3 years." That may represent the condition I'm citing for the 2009 as well.

RM 89 points.

This was a perfect pairing with home-made thin crust pizza with garden fresh veggies and herbs and grilled pork loin (shown below).

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1043081

http://www.sheawinecellars.com/

Argyle Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2011

Argyle Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2011

Slightly opaque garnet colored with a very slight sense of brown on the rim, light bodied, nose of black pepper turning to flavors of slight black pepper, wood and leather with flavors of dusty rose, tangy spice, black cherry with a slight edge of creosote. Note abundance of non-fruit flavors predominate leading me to wonder if this bottle was ever-so slightly tainted, as indicated by the subtle brownish hue in the glass. I sense not and attribute this to the vintage release rather than the bottle's provenance.

Acquired this at half off the release price which reflected more its value. I would hate to pay $39 for this wine. 

RM 86 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1606808

http://www.argylewinery.com/pinotnoir

Pate selection with Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve 2001

Pate' selection with Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve 2001

After a visit to the Art Institute of Chicago, we stopped at the 'big' Binny's in west Lakeview to see if they've opened their new expansion to learn it is being held up by the City. We picked up a selection of Pate's for a wine pairing - Mousse of Foie Gras with Sauternes Wine, Venison Pate with cranberry and pistachio, and Peppercorn Mousse Fabrique Deuces California. To accompany the wines we opened one of our favorites - a twelve year old Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir from our vertical selection of this wine.

We both loved the Vension selection. My favorite was the creamy smooth and rich Mousse of Foie Gras. Neither of us cared for the Peppercorn Mousse which seemed to have an odd musty almost soap taste. The first two were great pairings with the wine.

Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2001

Although we are not big Pinot drinkers we love this wine, one of the very few Pinot's in our cellar. Its a high achiever, always getting high marks thereby consistently offering a reasonable QPR. This year the 2010 release was Wine Spectator's #3 wine in its list of Top 100 gaining a 95 point rating. This 2001 was the oldest bottle in our vertical collection of this wine.

The winemaker's notes -
"With a brilliant ruby red color this wine opens to aromas of sweet red fruits, cherry, raspberry as well as more subtle spices of clove, cinnamon and pipe tobacco. On the front palate you taste blackberry and boysenberry that is rich and plumy. The wine has great weight and balance showing fine tannin on a supple frame. The finish is long with great earthy, toast, pepper and black olive. Blend of Pommard (77%), Wadenswil (16%) and Dijon (7%) clones of Pinot Noir from Estate Vineyards in the Red Hills (89%) and Eola Hills (11%)."

Ruby colored, medium bodied, this exhibited big fruit aromatics, full forward cherry, boysenberry and raspberry fruit flavors, clove and cinnamon spices with a layer tea, tobacco and hint of smoke on a smooth moderate tannin finish.

RM 91

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=34178

http://www.domaineserene.com/

Roots Klee Pinot Noir Hemingway's Bistro in Oak Park

Roots Klee Pinot Noir and Cain Cuvee' at Hemingway's Authentic French Bistro in Oak Park

Located in the center of the historic district in Oak Park amidst historic architecture and homes of historic figures sits Hemingway's Bistro, an authentic French dining experience. A few doors away is Ernest Hemingway's home, across the street from the Ernest Hemingway Museum, and a couple blocks away is Frank Lloyd Wright's home and studio (where I am a docent/interpreter). (See my Frank Lloyd Wright site dedicated to Wright and Prairie Style architecture.)

After a day holiday shopping in Chicago with Linda and our friend Kay Z, we stopped enroute home for a festive wine and small plates tasting experience. While we deviated from the French wine selections, the rest of the experience could have been from the Languedoc or Loire. Chef Christopher Ala has worked as the opening Executive Chef of the Historic Allerton Hotel in Chicago after their 80 million dollar renovation, has also run the Le Meriden Hotel and the memorable classic Chez Paul Restuarant in Chicago. We remember dining at Chez Paul back in the early eighties. Most will recall it from its classic lunch scene in the movie Ferris Bueler's Day Off (Abe Froman, Sausage King of Chicago!).

Our small plates (see below) consisted of Oysters on the half shell, Foie Gras, Pate, a cheese selection plate, followed of course by desserts - creme brulee. For the wine selection we chose a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir from Roots Vineyards. With desserts, our second wine was Cain Cuvee' Napa Valley NV9. Hemingway's wine list is primarily French and also American with over 60 selections by the bottles and 30 by the glass.

As I often write in this blog, it is easy to find a great Pinot Noir for $80. It is hard to to find a good, well priced Pinot for under $25, let alone under $20. A high QPR (Quality Price Ratio) Pinot Noir is one of the toughest varietals to find. Start with a producer who tends to over achieve with a value brand. Chris Berg,  from “five family vineyards” in the Willamette Valley brings us this respectable value priced offering with the stylish art inspired whimsical label.


Born is Racine, Wisconsin, raised in the midwest, Chris Berg moved when his family relocated to Oregon to start a business. In 1999, the Bergs planted seven acres of mostly Pinot Noir on the 20-acre property near Yamhill in the Yamhill-Carlton District of the Willamette Valley. Chuck and Dian Berg built a small house on the vineyard, and son Chris lived in Portland with his wife, Hilary. After Chuck and Dian moved to Arizona, Chris and Hilary took over the vineyards and winemaking duties.

The Roots name on the label is from the French word Racine taken from Chris' birthplace.

In 2002, the Bergs picked their first harvest of a mere three tons, which were made into 72 cases of Pinot Noir. Today, Roots produces approximately 3,800 cases annually. Wines include their flagship estate Pinot Noir, as well as eight single vineyard-designate Pinot Noirs, sourced mostly from neighboring vineyards in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Other wines include an estate Pinot Gris, Melon de Bourgogne, Viognier, Riesling, Dessert Riesling, Syrah and a methode champenoise sparkling, Theo, named after their son. All these wines are made in very small lots and handcrafted using indigenous yeasts.

In homage to one of Chris' favorite artists, Roots' second label, Klee (named after Paul Klee), makes up the largest portion of their case production with 2,000 cases made annually. The artwork is their own adaptation of a Klee painting. An art lover would recognize the artist Klee style artwork, the label is a clever rendition of a brilliant melange of color with a take-off of the Chesire Cat and a wine bottle.




Klee Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2011

Ruby colored, medium bodied, classic in the style of  Roots with the soft core fruits of black cherry, cranberry and plum with accents of spice and a hint of earth. The fermentation is done with indigenous yeasts, and the wine sees 10 months in neutral oak.  This is a pleasant easy drinking Pinot that is a great value - a rare find indeed. Credit Hemingway's for finding and offering such a feature.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1524739

http://www.rootswine.com/

http://www.hemmingwaysbistro.com/

Cain Cuvee' NV9

Cain's Cuvée project began over 20 years ago as a multi-vintage, multi-varietal blend based primarily on Bordeaux varietals - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The grapes are sourced from Rutherford, Oakville, Yountville, Spring Mountain, and Atlas Peak. Each vintage is a new, carefully made blend and many of the same rows of the same vineyards are included in each cuvée.

Cain Cuvee' NV 9

From winemaker Christopher Howell: "The facts will explain nothing. The NV09 is 53% Merlot (the balance being Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot), and it’s a blend of two vintages: 2009 (57%) and 2008 (43%). What sets the wine apart is how it tastes... This has everything I want in a red wine: smooth entry, mouth filling, sits gently and lightly on the palate, just enough mouthwatering tannins to cleanse the palate. Aromas of black cherries, red cherries, cigar box. Core of red fruit carries through from beginning to end. Nicely refined. Nothing sticks out."

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex, firm and a bit tight, black berry and black cherry fruits give way to cigar box and tea with moderate lingering tannins. May soften and open with a few more years in the cellar.

Merlot 53%, Cabernet Franc 26%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20% Petit Verdot 1%

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1570637

http://www.cainfive.com/

Hemingway's dining room

Foie gras with red pear

Pate' plate

Danielle preparing the cheese plate

Wine and cheese plate

Creme brulee

Lancasters Steak & Seafood with Benton Lane Pinot Noir

Benton Lane Pinot Noir with Salmon at Lancasters Bloomington

For a dinner on the road last week in downstate Bloomington, IL, I settled in Lancaster's Steak and Seafood restaurant downtown. Dining alone is one of the worst parts of traveling on the road so I usually select fast food or a place to get it over with quickly. If I do venture on sit down dining, I'll be adventurous and seek a place that might prove distinguishable. Laying over in Bloomington, I chose Lancaster's thinking I'd do classic, safe midwest fare.

Dining alone allows but one glass of wine which makes the selection typically challenging to find something worthwhile let alone notable. I'll also seek the best pairing of food and wine available which is difficult when limited to the by-the-glass selection. My foray was further daunting when I opted for a baked salmon entree tempting fate for seafood in a rural inland tertiary city. What a delightful surprise in this pairing choice - baked salmon and an Oregon Pinot Noir - a real winner!

Lancaster's Baked Salmon entree featured honey, Dijon and toasted almond crusted, maple-soy glaze, roasted asparagus and a choice of side dish - mashed roasted potatoes.

For the wine selection I chose a by-the-glass selection from the wine list, Benton Lane Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2010.

The pinot was nicely structured and bold enough to stand up and nicely complement the sweet maple and forward soy glaze. Medium bodied, slightly opaque ruby colored, it presented red berry and strawberry fruits giving way to a layer of spice accented by smoke and pepper with hints of mocha on the moderate finish.

The wine was such a hit I bought a bottle at Binny's upon arrival home and we enjoyed it with artisan cheeses and fruits later in the week. It provides a nice QPR - quality price ratio at $22. We drink very few Pinot's because our favorites are all in the $60 range - not realistic for our daily drinking budget. This is a nice discovery.

I've seen the Benton Lane label (or lack thereof) many times but this was the first time I'd ever tasted it. Their packaging features a painted bottle featuring a postage stamp facsimile label - very creative, stylish and memorable. I'll definitely revisit it and keep some on hand for casual easy drinking at a reasonable price point.  

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1362849

http://www.lancastersrestaurant.com/

The baked salmon entree selection.

Lancaster's was tastefully decorated, comfortable, stylish, almost cosmopolitan in a historic rustic building with tin-type ceilings and brick walls. The  selection was good, prices acceptable and service personable, folksy and friendly. Most notably, the tempting food and wine pairings were numerous and my first adventure, despite being a bit daring, was a hit. I'll be back for more and look forward to my next trip downstate!

The Benton Lane imaginative and fun packaging design.

Soft Red Wines for surf and turf

Pair of soft red wines complement surf and turf dinner

Tonight we dined at The Warehouse seafood and steakhouse in trendy downtown Old Town Alexandria just south of Washington DC Reagan Airport. Colleagues Danny A and James S and I dined with Rod R a business associate in DoD related IT projects. To complement the surf and turf selections of oysters, crab, haddock and filets of beef we started with a young Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley in Oregon followed by a Napa Valley Merlot from the Oak Knoll District.

Trefethen Napa Valley Merlot 2009

Label from 2005 vintage

Like the Merlot based Blackbird Vineyards Proprietary Red Wine we tasted Monday night at dinner, tonight we tasted another Napa Valley Red wine based on Merlot from the Oak Knoll District in southwest Napa Valley. The cooler climate there due to gentle breezes and fog that creeps in off of nearby San Pablo Bay to the south combined with the more moist and richer soil are well suited to the Merlot grape varietal. Blended with other Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec results in a red wine blend in the style of the Pomerol appellation on the Right Bank of the Gironde River Estuary in Bordeaux region in southern France.

The 2009 Trefethen Merlot was dark purple colored, medium to full bodied and rich in ripe forward concentrated fruits, tart cherry and blackberry on opening, it soon softened and opened to give way to complex yet smooth and polished aromas and flavors of nicely integrated ripe black raspberry, ripe plum, black cherry with a subtle layer of chocolate and soft spicy oak and hints of pepper on a lingering soft tannin finish. This was a perfect complement to the grilled fillet of beef. Very similar to the profile of the Napa Valley Proprietary Red Wine from Blackbird last night, indicative of the blend of Bordeaux varietals - 80% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot.

RM 91 points.

http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1345491

http://www.trefethen.com/

Adelsheim Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2010
Since 1979 Adelsheim has been producing quality wines that pair well with the food, blended from diverse flavors and textures of multiple vineyards, clones and elevations, they produce wines typifical of the northern Willamette Valley, what they call a reference standard for the “Oregon style.”

Seventy-six percent of the grapes used in this wine were sourced from their 12 estate vineyards: 58% from the Chehalem Mountains and Ribbon Ridge American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), 12% from the Yamhill Carlton AVA and 6% from the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. The remaining 24% is derived from sixteen other non-estate vineyards located in various sub-regions within the Willamette Valley.

Light bodied, opaque garnet colored, tart cherry gives way to aromas and flavors of candied cherry, pomegranate and raspberry with subtle accents of brown spices - nutmeg, cinnamon, and all-spice, finishing with smooth polished soft tannins.

RM 86 points.

http://adelsheim.com/

Domaine Serene Evensted Reserve and Two Hands Lily's Garden Shiraz

Domaine Serene Evensted Reserve and Two Hands Lily's Garden Shiraz 

Wine flight of selected favorites for dinner outing at our favorite Italian trattoria, Angelis Italian in Naperville, enjoyed with L and dear friends Mark and Gayle B.

Two very different wines with contrasting styles, but perfect complements to varied entrees of grilled sea scallops and Italian sausage pasta in vodka cream sauce. As usual, Angelis food and service were spectacular providing the perfect setting to showcase and enjoy our favorite wines.

Domaine Serene Evensted Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2007

One of our perennial favorites although if you read this blog you'll know we don't a lot of Pinot Noir compared to other varietals. The 2007 vintage is fairly typical of this label although seemingly slightly lighter and more subdued fruit than some years;  ruby color, medium bodied, raspberry, hint of black berry, strawberry, rhubarb, dusty rose with a touch of cinnamon spice.  

RM90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1027405

http://www.domaineserene.com/ 



Two Hands Lily's Garden McLaren Vale Shiraz 2003


The Two Hands represent the two producers, Michael Twelftree and Richard Mintz. The Two Hands 'Garden Series' represents their six ultra premium select bottling Shiraz's from the six key South Australia regions and appellations; Bella's Garden in Barossa Valley,  Harry & Max's Garden in Langhorne Creek, Max's Garden in Heathcote, Samantha's Garden in Clare Valley, Sophie's Garden in Padthaway, and Lily's Garden in McLaren Vale.

The Lily label is name for Michael's daughter, born in 2001. You can see a number of tempting variations of horizontal and vertical tasting in the making here!

Despite its massive 15.5% alcohol content, this wine is very approachable and easy pleasant drinking, if one is accustomed to the big bold fruit forward select Shiraz's. Typical distinctive dark inky black purple colour and big full body with concentrated forward fruits. This vintage is a bit more subdued and moderate than many yet still has complex concentrated dark berry and ripe plum fruits, with tones of blue fruit, spice, dark chocolate and smooth well integrated oak. finishing with supple fine tannins on a lingering persistent finish


RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=30558


http://twohandswines.com/