UGC Bordeaux 2013 Release Tour Chicago 2016

UGC Bordeaux 2013 Release Tour Chicago 2016

The UGC Bordeaux' (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)) producers' annual North American tour descended on Chicago this week to showcase their 2013 vintage release. The UGC is an association of 133 grands crus producers from heralded Gironde estates. My blogpost from last year's tour event talked in more detail about the UGC and the Bordeaux classification.

Once again, the event is organized by Napa based Balzac Communications, under the direction of Founder Paul Walker and CEO/Principle Mike Wangbickler. About 450 members of the trade and media were treated to taste the latest vintage release from eighty-two producers that were scheduled to attend.

Then, about 250 attendees attended the evening session that is open to the general public, hosted and orchestrated by Doug Jeffirs and the wine team from Binny's Beverage Depot, the Chicagoland superstore.

As in recent years, the event is held in the magnificent ballroom (left) of the Drake Hotel on Chicago's North Michigan Avenue Magnificent Mile, overlooking the famous Lake Shore Drive curve and Oak Street Beach.

Its a wonderful event and we're grateful to the producers who participate in this ambitious and rigorous trip across North America.

This year the itinerary has been expanded to eight cities as new stops have been added for public events in collaboration with select merchants in Florida and Canada, such as the Binny's event here in Chicago.

Its a pleasure to meet the Chateau owners, winemakers, commercial and marketing representatives who attend from the Chateaus. I recognize and appreciate the huge investment and commitment of their time and effort to participate.

This year the weather in Chicago was unusually mild and warm, more than offset by the blizzard that hit the Northeast dumping two feet of snow on New York. Lucky for the tour the storm hit over the weekend reducing disruption, unlike the last two years when several producers faced flight delays and some cancellations.

Once again, the Pour Boys wine team participated to assist the attending Paul and Michael of the Balzac Communications Group team who manage the event - setting up, registering participants, and standing in for producers pouring their wines, hence the name Pour Boys, obtained in recent years when many of the producers were no-shows or late arrivals due to winter storms.

The Pour Boys are avid wine collectors, our wine dinner group that meet regularly for wine centered tastings and social events - shown left, Ernie, Dr Dan, with Paul W, Lyle, me and Bill, as the core group. Such an event is great fun, an escape and vast departure from our normal daily duties tending to corporate litigation, dentistry, high tech, and retirement, when not working these events.

Members of the trade may also recall us from last fall's Grands Crus Classes of St Emilion 2015 Chicago tasting.

Son Ryan and I both attended with special interest this year since 2013 was the birth year of his son Richard Reid, as well as my other grandson John Richard (Richie). So, we're looking to invest in a horizontal collection of 2013 wines to commemorate their birth year as is our practice. Indeed, my collection of my kids' birth year wines was the basis for my cellar being featured in the Collector section of Wine Spectator Magazine back in June of 2001.

The next generation represented by Jared Gelband (shown with me, left), Sommellier at the Wine Bar in the Intercontinental Hotel Chicago, special friend of son-in-law Johnnie and daughter Erin.

The 2013 Bordeaux vintage presented some challenges for the winemakers, starting off as one of the coldest and wet starts to a growing season in more than 40 years and a later than expected harvest. One silver lining to the intense cold faced early was that it may have helped hinder potential diseases in the vines. An impact of the difficult year were lower crop yields, which when managed properly can still result in some fine wines from Producers with terroir, care and attention to detail, and a bit of luck. Watch for lower volumes in the premium labels with more volume attributed to the lesser labels.

A benefit for consumers may be a moderation in prices if they properly reflect the challenging 'lesser' vintage. Looking back on some other similar years, perhaps 1991 and 1992 following the spectacular 1990, these releases provided some good values for more moderate priced drinking.

Most likely, these wines will be ones to provide earlier drinking gratification rather than be properly structured for long term aging. This provides collectors a possible chance to enjoy these off year wines while the greater vintages continue to mature.

Bordeaux along with the rest of France endured a cold February and March, and May was especially cold and wet. Things only got worse in June with an early storm as the cool wet weather continued. Finally warm days came in July with early heat spikes, but still excessive moisture persisted with another storm coming late in the month, perhaps the worst storm in a decade or more.

Finally things improved with warmer days and sunshine arriving in August and continued into September, only to be faced with another storm late in the month.

With the shorter season and less heat, along with lower yields, also look for lower and less developed tannins from the lesser ripe fruits, look for highlights of 2013 to be the white Bordeaux, especially the Sauternes and Barsac.

This was evident in the tasting as the Sauternes and Barsac appellation seemed to be the highlight (left) with all labels showing well. I personally especially liked the Latour Blanche which stood out with its apricot punctuated forward fruits.

The St Julien appellation stood out with highlights being Chateaus Talbot and Beyechevelle. It was a surprise to see David Launay, former winemaker for Gruaud Larose attending again this year, but this time representing Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse (and Chateau Meyney, not presented).

I thought the Pauillac standout was Pichon Baron. I sensed it would be when I opened the bottles earlier, in preparation for the opening of the event, when the room burst with aromatics of floral and berry fruits.

Chateau Clinet and Chateau Troplong Mondot were both notable from the right bank.


Canon-le-Gaffeliere was remarkably light, almost delicate, with a layer of sweetness ... ready for early drinking gratification, but not built for long term aging.

The always delightful, Bernard Olivier attended representing Pessac Leognan Domaine Chevallier, but the evangelism duties were attended to by son Hugo while Bernard tended to ambassadorial duties as presiding President of the UGC. I watch and enjoy observing this transition as I enjoy the experience with my own son Ryan in the progression of his wine appreciation and knowledge, as well as his own cellar collecting.

The 2013 vintage should provide some lower priced wines that will provide earlier near term drinking. 

The Chateau represented on this year's tour.

1	Château de Chantegrive	Graves
2	Château Carbonnieux	Pessac Léognan
3	Château Les Carmes Haut Brion	Pessac Léognan
4	Domaine de Chevalier	Pessac Léognan
5	Château de Fieuzal	Pessac Léognan
6	Château de France	Pessac Léognan
7	Chateau La Louviere	Pessac Léognan
8	Château Latour Martillac	Pessac Léognan
9	Château Malartic Lagravière	Pessac Léognan
10	Château Olivier	Pessac Léognan
11	Château Pape Clément	Pessac Léognan
12	Château Smith Haut Lafitte	Pessac Léognan
13	Château Canon	Saint Emilion Grand Cru
14	Château Canon La Gaffelière	Saint Emilion Grand Cru
15	Château La Couspaude	Saint Emilion Grand Cru
16	Château La Dominique	Saint Emilion Grand Cru
17	Château Troplong Mondot	Saint Emilion Grand Cru
18	Château Villemaurine	Saint Emilion Grand Cru
19	Château Beauregard	Pomerol
20	Château Le Bon Pasteur	Pomerol
21	Château La Cabanne	Pomerol
22	Château Clinet	Pomerol
23	Château Gazin	Pomerol
24	Château La Pointe	Pomerol
25	Château Clarke	Listrac Médoc
26	Château Chasse Spleen	Moulis en Médoc
27	Château Maucaillou	Moulis en Médoc
29	Château Beaumont	Haut Médoc
30	Château de Camensac	Haut Médoc
31	Château Cantemerle	Haut Médoc
32	Château Citran	Haut Médoc
33	Château Coufran	Haut Médoc
34	Château La Lagune	Haut Médoc
35	Château La Tour Carnet	Haut Médoc
36	Château La Tour de By	Médoc
37	Château Angludet	Margaux
38	Château Brane Cantenac	Margaux
39	Château Cantenac Brown	Margaux
40	Château Dauzac	Margaux
41	Château Giscours	Margaux
42	Château Kirwan	Margaux
43	Château Lascombes	Margaux
44	Chateau Malescot St Exupery	Margaux
45	Château Prieuré Lichine	Margaux
46	Château Rauzan - Ségla	Margaux
47	Château du Tertre	Margaux
48	Château Beychevelle	Saint Julien
49	Château Branaire Ducru	Saint Julien
50	Château Gloria	Saint Julien
51	Château Gruaud Larose	Saint Julien
52	Château Lagrange	Saint Julien
53	Château Langoa Barton	Saint Julien
54	Château Léoville Barton	Saint Julien
55	Château Léoville Poyferré	Saint Julien
56	Château Saint Pierre	Saint Julien
57	Château Talbot	Saint Julien
58	Château d’Armailhac	Pauillac
59	Château Clerc Milon	Pauillac
60	Château Grand Puy Ducasse	Pauillac
61	Château Grand Puy Lacoste	Pauillac
62	Château Lynch Bages	Pauillac
63	Château Lynch Moussas	Pauillac
64	Château Pichon Baron	Pauillac
65	Château Lafon - Rochet	Saint Estèphe
66	Château Ormes De Pez	Saint Estèphe
67	Château de Pez	Saint Estèphe
68	Château Phélan Ségur	Saint Estèphe
69	Château Coutet	Barsac
70	Château Doisy Daëne	Barsac
71	Château Bastor - Lamontagne	Sauternes
72	Château de Fargues	Sauternes
73	Château Guiraud	Sauternes
74	Chateau Clos Haut Peyraguey	Sauternes
75	Château Lafaurie  Peyraguey	Sauternes
76	Château de Rayne Vigneau	Sauternes
77	Château Suduiraut	Sauternes
78	Château La Tour Blanche	Sauternes

Pour Boys Serve Grands Crus Classes of St Emilion 2015 Chicago Tasting

Pour Boys Serve Grands Crus Classes of St Emilion 2015 Chicago Tasting Event

As with the last couple UGC Bordeaux US Release Tasting Events in Chicago, the 'Pour Boys (TM)' wine group served at the Grands Crus Classes of St Emilion 2015 Chicago Tasting. More than two dozen producers visited Chicago to showcase their 2010 and 2012 vintage releases to the wine community.

The 2010 vintage is a classic vintage - a benchmark vintage worthy for aging. Following the great 2009, it is resembling the 1989-1990 years.

The 2012 vintage was one of extreme conditions early in the year, very cold winter, hot dry March, cold wet April. Once ripening began, conditions resembled the classic 2000 vintage - rain then drought, and good weather through September and early October. From mid-month, heavy rains came, rewarding those that had picked early. It is said that 2012 illustrates the premise that good wine is made in good vineyards by good vignerons. (Whereas in 'ideal' years, all boats rise with the tide.)

Once again the event was organized by Napa based Balzac Communications. The venue for this years event was the spectacular VenueSix10 overlooking Chicago's lakefront and Grant Park.

The Association de Grands Crus Classes de Saint Emilion (AGCCSE) was formed in 1982 by Crus Classes growers to jointly promote their own wines and those of the region, and to collaborate to achieving ever higher quality. Saint Emilion is a medeivel town founded in the 8th century, 40 km northeast of Bordeaux, 8 km from Libourne. There are 13500 acres of vineyards (half the size of Napa Valley) in two appellations, St Emilion and St Emilion Grand Cru. 

The 'Pour Boys' attending were me, Dr Dan, Ernie and Lyle, from our group of wine collectors who conduct regular wine dinners and special events, named such as a result of our service at these events. Other regulars, #1 Son Ryan, and Bill C were unable to participate.

These wine adventures are much of the basis and content of this unwindwine blog. As written in these pages, this started when East Coast winter snowstorms disrupted flight operations preventing more than a dozen producers from getting to the event a few years ago. The 'Pour Boys' were called in to service to stand in and pour those wines. Then, when it happened again the following year, this tradition was born.

Events such as this give us pedestrian wine collectors a chance to mix with the Producers and members of the wine trade, to learn, and share fine wine passion, experiences and adventures, and for them to talk with serious collectors/consumers. This week's event was fitting as Dr Dan and Lyle just returned from two weeks touring the French Rhone Valley.

What a privilege to meet the representatives from the producers of St Emilion. Kudos to them, Virginie Larramona, (below left) Executive Director, and Alain Moueix, President of the Association, and the Balzac team for orchestrating a wonderful event and an impressive turnout (left) of the member Chateaux.

Thank you all for coming to our fair City, Chicago.

With Virginie Larramona,
Exec Director AGCCSE

This event featuring the Grands Crus Classes of Saint-Emilion provided a  wonderful opportunity to explore and experience a comprehensive and in-depth exposition of the people and their wines across the appellation and the nuances and wonders of its different terroir - the southern slopes, the plateau, northern slopes, and the gravelly areas. This rare glimpse into the geography and distinctive terrior matched with representative wines showcased and highlighted their individual style and character of each area.

Some of the discoveries of this event were Château Jean Faure with its unique blends featuring 54% Cabernet Franc, the unique showing of Château Grand Corbin-Despagne, meeting Charles-Antoine Beyney and tasting their spectacular releases of Château Clos De Sarpe, meeting Guy Meslin owner of Château Laroze and learning of their heritage and legacy, and meeting Sylvie Cazes, the new owner of Château Chauvin, and serving Château Yon-Figeac.

Notable tastings of the day:

• Château Bellefont-Belcier 
• Château Chauvin
• Château Clos de Sarpe
• Château Corbin
• Château Cote De Baleau
• Château Les Grandes Murailles
• Clos Saint Martin
• Clos Des Jacobins
• Château La Commanderie
• Couvent Des Jacobins
• Château Dassault
• Château Faurie De Souchard
• Château De Ferrand
• Château De Pressac
• Château Frombrauge
• Château Fonplegade
• Château Fonroque
• Château Grand Cordin-Despagne
• Château Grand Pontet
• Château Guadet
• Château Jean Faure
• Château La Dominique
• Château La Marzelle
• Château Larose
• Château Yon Figeac

Guy Meslin of Château Laroze

The wonders of St Emilion are manifested in the rich wonderful heritage of the properties such as Château Laroze, where Guy Meslin of the Meslin family, are direct descendants of the founders, who are recorded as producing wine in St Emilion as far back as 1610. In 1882 ancestors of the family bought and combined 37 acres of three small vineyards, and founded the family estate of Laroze. They built the chateau with its cellars and vat house in 1885.

Successive generations lead to George Meslin who ran and developed the estate for 40 years, organising it under its current name, increased its size, and built its sales network and the quality of a Grand Cru Classé. Building upon the efforts and legacy of him and earlier generations, Château Laroze was awarded Grand Cru Classé status in the 1955 Saint-Emilion classification. On the retirement of his father, Guy Meslin took over the family estate in 1990. Under his leadship, they continued to modernize the estate and expand the facilities.

Today, eighty percent of production is Château Laroze exported as distribution is growing in the US. Watch for it.

Pour Boys at Chez Joel

Afterwards, we dined at Chez Joël Bistro Francais on Taylor Street, Chicago, one of our favorite regular spots, often pregame dining before Hawks' and Bulls' games.

We started with the Fromage de Brie Chaud, warm Brie Cheese with honey, apricot, garlic and almond, Salmon Fume, Scottish Smoked Salmon, capers, cream cheese, toast and Tobikko, and the Pâté de deux Sortes, Duck & Chicken Liver Pâté with traditional garnish & toast points.

For entrees, Dan and I had the Magret et Confit de Canard, Sauce à L’orange, Pan seared Duck Breast & Duck Leg Confit, Served with Wild Mushrooms Fricassée, Potato Galette and Cranberry Orange Sauce (bottom). Lyle and Ernie both had the crab cake special.

With dinner, celebrating the wines of St Emilion, we had Château Laroze Grand Cru Classé and Château Les Grandes Murailles Grand Cru Classé from Saint Emilion Grand Cru.

Charles-Antoine Beyne of
Chateau Clos De Sarpe

Sylvie Cazes, new principle
at Chateau Chauvin.

Pour Boys Dr Dan & Lyle w/ Chateau Jean Faure

Chez Joël Bistro Francais, Chicago

Chez Joel - Magret et Confit de Canard, Sauce à L’orange

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Chicago 2015

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) 2012 Vintage Release Tasting Chicago 

For Bordeaux lovers, one of the premier wine events of the year is the annual North American vintage release tour of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB).  The UGC is an association of 133 grands crus producers from heralded Gironde estates. Shown below left is the colorful Bernard Olivier, Proprietor of Domaine Chevallier and President of the UGCB, with son Hugo.

Wine enthusiasts will know that Grand Cru refers to the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855, where Grand Cru (French for 'great growth') is the classification that designates a vineyard (or producer) as reputable, known for its consistency in producing favorable wines. Grand Cru is the second highest rating of five levels, second only to Premier cru or Premier cru classé, the highest level of the five within the "Grand cru classé" designation for red wines, and the second-highest of three in the Sauternes appellation, where the highest is Premier Cru Supérieur (superior first growth). These highest rated wines are often known as or referred to as the classic 'First Growths', of which there are only six. 

The First Growths generally cost an order of magnitude more than the Grand Crus, beyond the budget of most, or certainly, only obtainable as once a year wines, or even once in a lifetime, special occasion wines. In top vintages, First Growths often cost more than a $1000 per bottle. 

Often the Grand Crus wines approach the quality and rating of the higher classified and much more expensive First Growth wines, and are certainly indistinguishable, except to the most discriminating. Hence, Grand Crus are the most popular and most widely collected wines for the masses of Bordeaux wine enthusiasts.  

The annual UGCB vintage release tour event is open to the trade - restauranteurs, merchants, distributors, importers and the press during the day, and then it is open to the public in the evening through special arrangements with Binny's Beverage Depot, the Chicagoland wine super merchant with over thirty stores. Other featured merchants host the event in other cities.
 

Ryan and Rick - Father Son Tasting Team

This outstanding event offers a rare opportunity to meet the producers and many of the actual winemakers and the opportunity to taste their latest Bordeaux release. About 100 wines are presented for tasting and offered for pre-sale 'en premiere' or as wine futures to the public prior to actual availability of the wines in distribution. This provides a preview of the release and the opportunity to lock in an allocation of the wine at the pre-release price. For a collector seeking that release, it typically affords the best means to obtaining wines at early market price. 

Chateau Pichon Baron -
one of the standouts

The event provides enthusiasts and collectors the chance to meet and speak with the winery representative who offers unique insights and perspectives on the current vintage release, the recent harvest projecting next year's vintage release, as well as previous earlier vintages releases of the label. 

We hold many cases of Bordeaux wines dating back to the early eighties as well as many large format bottles of key vintages that we're holding for special occasions. The producers are exposed to these wines regularly and are a library of knowledge of the state of each release and how it is aging and drinking, even in the various size format bottles. They have vast knowledge and insights and can offer great perspectives on the historic vintages as well as the nuances of the current and upcoming releases.

As with recent years, the tour visited New York, Chicago and San Francisco. The Chicago event was held in the classic famous Gold Coast Ballroom (shown left) of the chic Drake Hotel at the the corner where the Magnificent Mile North Michigan Avenue meets Lake Shore Drive. 

Like last year, when snowstorms in New York delayed the arrival of many producers in Chicago, a winter blizzard across the eastern third of the US threatened to disrupt the event, but a group of flight delayed courageous producers arrived from New York an hour before opening.

In fairness, naturally, I did not taste every wine, but of those tasted, here are the highlights of this year's event. I focused on wines that I know and collect as a basis of comparison to calibrate the vintage. I then ventured to try some new wines, especially wines that are from producers I already know, and then I tried some new discoveries. 

Cellar Angels Founders Martin and Denise Smith Cody
with Dean Noonan of SipsonSherman and Cecile Rocher,
Brand Ambassador for Chateau Larose-Trintaudon

Professional tasters, or those in the trade know the routine and rigor of tasting, but for the average person, they're not likely aware of the demands of such a tasting. For such an event, with so many wines tasted, I'll rate them on a scale of 1 to 5 with 5 being the best. 

Tasting so many wines in one setting, I admit I succumb to palette fatigue and start to lose my sense of discrimination, so I won't try to rate on the more precise 100 point scale that is so often used. 

Also, note I didn't drink any wine, rather spit out the wine tasted, so my diminution of discrimination was not due to alcohol. 

Lastly, I did endeavor to occasionally cleanse my palette with water, bread and cheese, and while this helps immensely, I believe my olfactory senses ebb and flow over the course of the day as a result.

The 2012 will not be a blockbuster vintage, like the 2010, or 2009, but with careful selection, will provide pleasurable drinking at more affordable prices. The wines should show to be more approachable at an earlier age as well. 

 The stand out appellations that seemed to be high performing appeared to be wines from the Pauillac Appellation followed by Margaux, and then St Julien.

The Pauillac appellation seemed to not only be showing the best results for the vintage but also seemed to be most consistent amongst the group of producers represented. 

Pauillac wines tasted and showing best:
 
Five stars: Gold
Chateau Pichon Baron  (shown left)
Chateau Pichon Comtesse Longueville de Lalande
Chateau Lynch Bages 
All showed full body, complex concentrated forward dark fruits, very structured with a firm tannic backbone on the long finish.
Four stars: Silver
Grand Puy Lacoste  
Grand Puy Ducasse
Chateau Clerc Milon




From St Estephe - Phelan Segur a perennial favorite stood out - 4 stars / Silver
 

 








Margaux seemed to show well however it seemed to lack the consistency of the Pauillacs. 

From the 'heart of Margaux' - Lascombes,
Malescot St Exupery, and Marquis de Tertre

Four stars each:  Silver

Chateau Dauzac (a new discovery)
Chateau Giscours
Chateau Brane-Cantenac
Chateau Cantenac Brown
Chateau Lascombes
Chateau Marquis de Tertre

 







St Julien is one of our favorite appellations and most widely held in our cellar. 

The always delightful David Launay
of Gruaud Larose

Four 1/2 stars each: Silver/Gold
Chateau Leoville Barton
Chateau Langoa Barton

Four stars each: Silver
Chateau Gruaud Larose
Chateau LaGrange
Chateau Beyechevelle
Chateau Branaire Ducru

Medium bodied, core of concentrated dark fruits, tones of cedar, tobacco leaf and leather, with moderate tannins.  

A new discovery of the tasting was Chateau St Pierre from the same ownership as Chateau Gloria. I've had this a couple times but never in a setting to compare to other benchmark appellation producers.

Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse

Chateau Branaire-Ducru

Several of the Right Bank St Emilion and Pomerol appellation Merlot based wines seemed to come across a bit austere and slightly astringent with a woody and green cedar tone. 

Highlights of the that sub-region that were standouts were:

Again, as with last year, Chateau Clinet (left) was a standout of the event and certainly of the Right Bank selections.

Four and 1/2 stars: Silver/Gold

Chateau Clinet
Chateau Gazin 
Chateau Troplong Mondot

Four Stars: Silver
Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere











From the Barzac et Sauternes appellations, home to sweet white dessert style wines, the standouts were:

Five Stars: Gold
Chateau Giraud - regretably, this was gone by the evening session

Four Stars: Silver (Shown above)
Chateau Rayne Vigneau 
Chateau La Tour Blanche

The next generation - son Ryan McNees, collector and enthusiast, and Hugo Olivier of Domaine Chevalier.