Showing posts with label Sauternes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sauternes. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 10, 2018

Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012


Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012

After our Italian dinner we stopped in a NYC neighborhood wine shop enroute back to our hotel and picked up this causal sipper for an after dinner dessert wine to take back to the room. I selected a Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012, a Sauternes, an appellation in France’s Bordeaux region known for some of the most celebrated sweet wines in the world. Sauternes lies within the Graves district of Bordeaux, on the banks of the Garonne River, where cool, foggy mornings and sunny afternoons play a key role in the creation of the area's acclaimed dessert wines.

Different from, but often confused with or compared to Ice Wine, Sauternes sweet dessert wines are produced by leaving the grapes on the vines to allow the beneficial mold Botrytis cinerea to affect the grapes. The Botrytis forms during the area’s damp mornings and causes the grapes to shrivel, creating sugar-laden fruit full of rich, concentrated flavors. Botrytis tends to develop late in the growing season, rewarding those vineyard growers who risk bad weather to leave the grapes on the vine. The resulting Sauternes flavor is rich and sweet, with botrytis contributing a honeyed complexity to the wine, like Ice Wine which is produced in the same way, but by leaving the grapes on the vine into the winter in cold climates.

The primary grapes of Sauternes are white grape variety Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. This particular label is a blend of those two dominant Sauternes varietals.  This Petit label is the second label or the secondary more economical branding of the more sophisticated and renounced first or primary label, Château Guiraud which is designated a "1er Cru". The first label is naturally more complex, concentrated, expressive and or course, more expensive as to be expected, roughly twice the price.

 Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012

This was straw or butter colored, medium full bodied with thick unctuous tongue coating, almost syrup of sweet 'sticky' notes of honey, hints of pineapple, apple and hints of caramel and what one wine writer referred to as chutney.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2102934


Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012


Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012

After dinner we stopped in a neighborhood wine shop enroute back to our hotel and picked up this causal sipper for an after dinner dessert wine to take back to the room. I selected a Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012, a Sauternes, an appellation in France’s Bordeaux region known for some of the most celebrated sweet wines in the world. Sauternes lies within the Graves district of Bordeaux, on the banks of the Garonne River, where cool, foggy mornings and sunny afternoons play a key role in the creation of the area's acclaimed dessert wines.

Different from, but often confused with or compared to Ice Wine, Sauternes sweet dessert wines are produced by leaving the grapes on the vines to allow the beneficial mold Botrytis cinerea to affect the grapes. The Botrytis forms during the area’s damp mornings and causes the grapes to shrivel, creating sugar-laden fruit full of rich, concentrated flavors. Botrytis tends to develop late in the growing season, rewarding those vineyard growers who risk bad weather to leave the grapes on the vine. The resulting Sauternes flavor is rich and sweet, with botrytis contributing a honeyed complexity to the wine, like Ice Wine which is produced in the same way, but by leaving the grapes on the vine into the winter in cold climates.

The primary grapes of Sauternes are white grape variety Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. This particular label is a blend of those two dominant Sauternes varietals.  This Petit label is the second label or the secondary more economical branding of the more sophisticated and renounced first or primary label, Château Guiraud which is designated a "1er Cru". The first label is naturally more complex, concentrated, expressive and or course, more expensive as to be expected, roughly twice the price.

 Château Guiraud Petit Guiraud 2012

This was straw or butter colored, medium full bodied with thick unctuous tongue coating, almost syrup of sweet 'sticky' notes of honey, hints of pineapple, apple and hints of caramel and what one wine writer referred to as chutney.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2102934


Thursday, April 27, 2017

Silver Oak Alexander Valley 1993

Silver Oak Alexander Valley 1993

Bob and Gloria visiting from Florida came for dinner and Linda prepared grilled beef tenderloin, mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus. I pulled from the cellar a vintage '93 Silver Oak Alexander Valley.

Silver Oak Alexander Valley has been somewhat of a special memorable tribute wine with them ever since we tasted it together when they treated us to a special 35th anniversary celebration at Morton's in Naperville. That night I took a 1990 vintage bottle commemorating our sons' Alec's and Bryan's birth year. For a mini-horizontal tasting that evening, we compared it with a '04 from the Morton's wine-list.


Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1990 labelSeptember 4, 2009 - Silver Oak Alexander Valley 1990 and 2004 - Contrast of vintages, young and old. The 1990 was tight, dark, and exhibited black cherry, black berry, slight astringency, leather and cedar on the oaky tannin finish. (RM89) The 04 was much lighter, simpler with accents of sweet red currant and hint of chocolate with sweet oak on the finish (RM88)

Tonight, we pulled this '93 from the cellar which was tasting very nicely, still near its prime in its twenty-fourth year, consistent with my earlier tastings of this vintage back in April, 2003 and then again in December 2008. 

April 93 - Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 1993 $75 RM/WS (CS) 90 That classic SO oak flavor predominates with berry, plum and currant - dark with medium body. 12/23/2008 - I wrote:  90 Points. 

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium bodied, black berry fruits with tones of ripe plum and black currants, accented with a layer of oak, with hints of tobacco leaf and creosote on the lingering finish. 
RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3545

Afterwards with chocolate cake and fresh berries, I poured the remains of this vintage port and dessert wine. 

Chateau Guiraud Sauterne 1er Grand Cru Classe 2006

Croft Vintage Port 1994










Sunday, March 5, 2017

OTBN 2017

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2017

Our 'pour boys' wine group gathered for the 2017 17th annual "OTBN" wine celebration. OTBN stands for Open That Bottle Night, the annual wine event for collectors and oenophile wine enthusiasts to pull that special bottle being held in the cellar for an occasion whose time has not yet come. So once a year, what the heck, OTBN - open that bottle (to)night. Typically held on the last Saturday of February, this years bacchanalia was postponed a week due to members' travels. Once again, the event provided a wonderful gathering, great food, fellowship, and of course, some extraordinary wines. We missed regular attendees Bill and Beth and toasted them as they sit down on the South Carolina shore.

We started with a course of artisan cheeses, fresh fruits, crab dip and fresh shrimp cocktail to kick off the evening with a hearty vintage Champagne Celebris Gosset 2002 brought by John. The cheese course consisted of gouda, swiss, Danish Maytag Blue, Bellavitano Merlot, parmigiana, and capped of by a extraordinary 19 year old vintage sharp cheddar, also brought by John. Following was a wonderful Peter Michael Chardonnay brought by Ernie. These also lead in to the salad course.

Celebris Gosset Vintage Extra Brut Champagne 2002

Celebris is the flagship prestige cuvée of the Gosset Champagne house named, inspired by Albert Gosset, the 15th generation patriarch (1915-1991) and developed  by cellarmaster Jean-Pierre Mareigner in 1993. The first release of Celebris appeared in 1995, consisting of the 1988 vintage cuvée. The cuvée was designed to stand with the finest high-end champagnes in its class and showcase the best of the Gosset style - great aromatic complexity and beautiful finesse that could be paired with the most elaborate dishes.

The 2002 is 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir from vineyards in Aÿ, Bouzy, Verzy, Chouilly and Cramant. It received 96 points from Vinous who described it as "vinous, fleshy and super-expressive with striking freshness, candied lemon peel, apricot jam, honey, mint, spices and sage in a compelling fabric of flavors and textures in a knock-out Champagne."

Wine Spectator and  James Suckling both gave it 94 points, Suckling noting "a deep, rich and toasty nose that has a wealth of cashewy, nutty aromas and dried lemon pith, nougat and bright dried cherry fruits ...  bold, assertive and full of flavor with really expansive orchard fruits."

Wine Spectator cited its lightly smoky finish.

Jancis Robinson noted it to be 'extremely dense and dry - most impressive, though verging on austere without anything to eat with it."

Jean-Pierre Mareigner, Cellarmaster wrote, “This is a champagne that was difficult to create. I selected contrasting villages in order to blend various personalities. I was looking for structure but also freshness. The final result is an exceptional cuvée.”

Varietal Composition: 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1709249

Peter Michael La Carrière Sonoma County Knights Valley Chardonnay 2013

This was delightful, a memorable Chardonnay, ranking with the best of breed of this varietal, among the best, as good as any I have every tasted. Part of what makes it extraordinary in its subtlety with its unpretentious silky smooth, creamy texture and refined polished flavors of nut, peach, mineral and hints of butterscotch.

RM 93 points.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate gave it 98 points calling it "unbelievable".

James Suckling gave it 96 points citing its "concentration of honeysuckle, orange marmalade, white currant, white peach and mineral notes."

Wine Spectator gave it 93 points and called it "Complex and subtle' describing it as 'dried pineapple, apple, lime pie and hints of nuts ... hints of cream ..... full body, dense center palate."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2029454

We pivoted to the dinner and red wine flight with this soft smooth elegant Pinot Noir.

Belle Glos Dairyman Vineyard Sonoma County Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2011

Lyle bought this Belle Glos, named for Lorna Belle Glos Wagner, co-founder of legendary Napa Valley Caymus Vineyards and grandmother of Belle Glos owner/winemaker, Joe Wagner, mother of Caymus owner/winemaker Chuck Wagner.

Belle Glos produces four single vineyard designated select Pinot Noirs, each representing the distinctive character and terroir of their disparate locations.

This label features fruit sourced from the Dairyman Vineyard located in the Sonoma County Russian River Valley. The proximity to the Pacific Ocean subjects it to cool morning fog and afternoon coastal breezes that prolong the growing season resulting in small, concentrated and flavorful berries with bright cherry characteristics, brown spices, and a minerality that gives a rich, velvety mouth feel. The vineyard is named for its history as an old dairy farm where the pastureland was planted to Dijon clone Pinot Noir in 2000

This was actually rather full bodied and bold for a Sonoma County Pinot Noir, dark ruby colored, complex, with spicy dark and red berry fruits, dusty rose, hints of cedar and cinnamon on a tangy rather firm finish.
RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1605702

http://belleglos.com

Moving to the dinner course, Linda prepared her beef tenderloin (shown below), with roasted potatoes, brussel spouts and green beans. With the entree course we featured three Bordeaux varietal blends, a mini-vertical tasting of two vintages of this unique California label and a left bank Bordeaux. I had already selected and opened this Ridge Monte Bello 1998 when John showed up with the 1993 release of the same wine. We couldn't have planned this any better!

I wrote in depth about the Ridge Monte Bello vineyards and estate in a tasting journal last year

Monte Bello is the unique flagship label of this prolific producer known for a broad line of vineyard select Zinfandels from throughout Northern California  including Sonoma and Napa Counties. Monte Bello is unique not only that it is a Ridge produced Bordeaux blend, but also because it is sourced from fruit from the Monte Bello vineyard, high atop the Santa Cruz mountains that separate Silicon Valley and San Francisco Bay to the east and north, from the Pacific Ocean and the Monterey Bay/Peninsula to the west and south.

This is especially notable to us since it is closest to, yet high above the location of our home from when we lived in Saratoga, California, nestled up against the Santa Cruz mountain range down at the bottom of Silicon Valley, near the crease where the road leads up into the mountains and over 'the hill' down to Santa Cruz on the Pacific coast.

This is a contrast in two vintages, from the somewhat maligned and challenged 1998 vintage, while five years younger than the '93 above, it is starting to show its age a bit while the 93 seems vibrant and full of life.

Ridge Vineyards "Monte Bello" Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon 1993

This was amazing in its graceful elegant, almost delicate floral tones, complex yet smooth and polished with layers of soft black raspberry and black currant fruits with subtle tones of vanilla, anise, and hint of  graphite on a silky tannin finish.

The blend is 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 7% Petiti Verdot. 

RM 92 points


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=20720


Ridge Vineyards "Monte Bello" Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

The 1998 Monte Bello is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc.

Consistent with last tasting notes, two years ago, almost to the date, dark purple garnet colored, medium to full bodied, initially a bit obtuse and acidic, but softened and opened after decanting and sitting for an hour, full, moderately expressive black berry and plum fruits, complex, accented by subtle tones of  pencil shavings, tobacco leaf, violets, and hints of bell pepper and anise with moderate smooth silky tannins on the finish. It would be overstated to characterize it as 'earthy' but there is a layer of complexity that reflects the storied terroir and reveals the care of 47% selection and the rigorous thinning that results in extremely selective, low yields of less than 1 1/2 tons per acre.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3557

http://www.ridgewine.com/Vineyards/Monte%20Bello


Château Lanessan Haut-Medoc Bordeaux 1995 

Ernie brought this left bank Bordeaux.

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium-full bodied, this was firm and a bit tight with concentrated black berry fruits, a layer of smoke and anise accented by hints of creosote, graphite and black tea on the lingering moderate tannin finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=68029











Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Etienne Gonnet 2004

Dan brought this CDP that comes from the area known as La Crau, also known for the popular Chateau Vieux Telegraph. This is a blend of 65-70% Grenache, 15-20% Syrah, and 15% Mourvèdre.

I think it is the Grenache predominance that comes through with its dark berry fruit, black tea notes and meaty tones, dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, concentrated spicy black berry fruits with hints of smoke and anise, with acidic tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=176494






Transitioning from the main course and entrees to the dessert flight, the perfect transition was this big bold bruising Syrah brought by Ryan. Dessert was Terry's decadent orange cake, Linda's delectable chocolate mousse, fresh whipped cream, fresh berries, and coffees.

Herman Story Santa Maria Valley Bien Nacido Vineyard Syrah 2013

This single vineyard designated label from the Bien Nacido Vineyard in the California Central Coast Santa Maria Valley.

This was an ideal pivot from the more complex blends suitable for the dinner entrees, to a narrower, more single dimensional, big violet muscular fruit bomb to accompany the dessert course of orange cake and dark chocolate mousse.

Dark inky purple, full bodied, big forward concentrated tongue coating, almost chewy, jammy berry compote of black and blue fruits, spicy notes, black olive and hints of dark mocha and black pepper on a mouth puckering finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2028355


Dow's Vintage Port 1977

Lyle brought this forty year old hold sipper that is still showing much life yet.
 Dark thick and syrupy, full bodied, essence of cognac laced black currants, stewed prunes, dried fig fruits with tones of expresso, anise and hint of kirsch on a tongue coated finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=1728




Château de Rayne-Vigneau Premier Grand Cru Classé de Sauternes -Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend 1988 

I initially pulled out a 1998 Sauterne to accompany the '98 tasted earlier but then found down in the cellar this '88 and opted for it instead. 

Château de Rayne-Vigneau is ranked as Premier Cru Classé (French, “First Growth”), 1er Grand Cru Classé Sauternes. The château lies at the center of a single block vineyard of 207 acres. The vines are an average of 30 years old, divided between 74% Sémillon, 24% Sauvignon Blanc, and 2% Muscadelle.

At almost thirty years of age, this was surprisingly youthful, straw colored, medium-full bodied, tones of tangy citrus with bright acidity, tongue coating sweet fruits, roasted nuts and hints of smoke. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=18277




The contributors and their wines ...












Sunday, January 29, 2017

After Dinner Trio - El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010 Warres Filhot

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010 stands up to after dinner wine flight medley that includes a Warre's Vintage Port and a Chateau Filhot Vintage Sauterne Dessert Wine  

Following our Chicago Restaurant Week dinner at Vie Restaurant in Western Springs we came home and had some chocolates, fruits and cheeses with a trio of after dinner wines - a Warre's vintage port, a Chateau Filhot Sauterne dessert wine and Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010 

As shown, the two dessert wines were from 375 ml half bottles. 

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010 

After tasting the Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2014 at the Corkscrew wine shop in Springfield last week, I was inquisitive to try another vintage so I pulled the oldest one from our cellar, the 2010. 

Amazingly this big bold red blend stood up to the trio of wines that included the Warres single vineyard vintage port and the Sauterne.

I thought the older Clio was even better and liked it even more than the '14, perhaps since it was four years older and more settled, but also, because I thought the 2010 was more complex with notes of ripe sweet blue fruit to complement the layer of concentrated full bodied black raspberry, and with a bit more sweetness which I also like. Still, like the 2014, it also had that dark chocolate, hint of vanilla, almost caramel like, finishing with smooth polished sweet tannins on the long smooth finish. A powerful, decadent but smooth approachable wine.

Like the '14, the 2010 Clio is also a blend of 70% old-vine Monastrell with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.

RM 94 points. 

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar gave this 92 point, Wine Spectator 91 points, and Robert Parker Wine Advocate 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1467288



Next to the Clio we also had these two big forward dessert wines, both from half bottles.


Warres Porto Vintage Quinta da Cavadinha 1995


Consistent with earlier tasting notes. Dark coffee color - full bodied, a bit of an edge of sweet black fruits, layer of smokey creosote with hint of expresso, cedar and cassis and dark black cherry on the finish.

From a half bottle.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3721




Château Filhot Sauternes - 2ème Grand Cru Classé 1988


Trolling the cellar with Dr Dan looking for some after dinner wines, I found this perfectly suited vintage Sauterne that I must admit was not registered in my Cellartracker wine database inventory. I don't remember purchasing this wine or having had it previously. This should not be surprising with more than a thousand bottles in the cellar. Perhaps what is more surprising is how seldom this happens.

Château Filhot is a classic Sauterne Bordeaux, having been classified a 'second growth', a Grand Cru Classe', back in the original 1855 Bordeaux producer classification. The vineyards date back to the 1630's and the château was founded by Romain de Filhot in 1709. According to Wikipedia, after the French revolution, the estate was taken over by Romain-Bertrand de Lur-Saluces who added the estate of Pinaud du Rey and had the château redesigned to its English appearance in 1840.

Legend has it that Thomas Jefferson drank this wine and ranked it directly behind the legendary Chateau d'Yquem. During that time, Filhot enjoyed a greater reputation than today, and the two wines were comparably priced. This was during the time that Jefferson was American ambassador to France. He spent much time there and traveled the wine regions. He became a great admirer and oenphile of French wines. He actually brought back grape vines and labored unsuccessfully to grow them in Virginia at his Monticello estate.


In 1935, Comtesse Durieu de Lacarelle (the sister of the Marquis de Lur-Saluces, proprietor of Château d'Yquem) bought the estate, which was subsequently modernised by her son, Louis Durieu de Lacarelle, during the 1970s. The estate is currently run by the Vaucelles family.

Today Filhot vineyards cover 150 acres on the 700 acre estate with the grape varieties of 60% Sémillon, 36% Sauvignon blanc and 4% Muscadelle. Their annual production is an average of 6500 cases. They also produce a second label wine called Chateau Pineau du Rey.

For an almost thirty year old wine, the 1988 was still light golden honey colored. These wines start out straw colored and darken with age. I would have expected it to be weak tea colored at least, or even darker. It was medium-full bodied, crisp and clear with complex notes of honey and pineapple aromas with what Robert Parker called a "fine underlying acidity, an earthiness that added to the wine's complexity, and a clean, rich, crisp finish". This was more subdued and not as sweet or unctuous as a d'Yquem or other popular premium Sauterne. It was very pleasant and enjoyable none-the-less. It would be nice with soft moderate cheeses or even a salad course.

RM 88 points. Robert Parker also gave this 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=97425

Saturday, October 1, 2016

Vin Chicago Saturday Tasting Features Big Red Diverse Styles

Vin Chicago Saturday Tasting Features Big Red Diverse Styles

I've written often in these pages about the Saturday afternoon wine tastings at Chicagoland wine merchant Vin Chicago. Today's flight featured a selection of Big Red's with diverse styles. Unlike the typical popular distributor tabletop tastings set up in local merchants, Vin Chicago features a selection from their inventory with highlights of quality and even premium labels, with serving duties shared by staff rotation. It's started to become routine to check out the Saturday Tasting lineup on their website blogpost each week. Today's flight featured four popular premium Reds with diverse styles, some premium champagnes, and a top flight Sauterne dessert label. 

The occasion for this special selection was the 30th Anniversary of the opening of their first flagship store on Elston Avenue in Chicago - the precursor to todays' Vin Chicago with four stores throughout Chicagoland including our hometown of Naperville. In addition to the premier tasting, they also offered over 100 wines at special anniversary discount pricing.

The flight included: 
  • Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 
  • Silver Oak Cellars Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
  • Chateau Troplong Mondot St. Emillion 2012
  • Snowden "Brothers Vineyard" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
  • Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes 2009
and a selection of quality Champagnes
  • Etienne Doue "Cuvee Selection" Brut Champagne NV
  • Billecart-Salmon "Brut Reserve" Champagne NV
  • Vilmart "Grand Cellier" Brut Champagne NV
Ideally, I would've spent time sufficient to savor the entire selection but I focused solely on the Red's and the Sauterne. 

Caymus Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Another blockbuster from this legendary producer that is known for silky smooth easy drinking quality Napa Cabernets that are approachable at an early age that still have the potential for aging. Caymus has held this price point of this premium label for several years such that this offers good QPR for a premium consistent, dependable label. 

For anyone bewildered by the abundance of labels and wines in their local wine shop that are not certain what to buy for a quality bottle to drink, share, gift or serve, you can't go wrong with this label for any occasion. This was Linda's favorite.

This resembles their classic 2012 40th anniversary label that got 96 points from leading reviewers. 

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, rich, silky smooth black berry and black raspberry fruits accented by tones of sweet oak, mocha and hints of clove spice on a soft elegant polished finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2303395

Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 


Dark inky garnet colored, medium full bodied, classic Silver Oak signature profile - focused core (some might also translate this as single dimensional) of dark berry fruit with predominant mid-palate toasty oak that lingers on the finish. Minutes later hangs on the palate like a fine cigar. 

Silver Oak continues to enjoy an almost cult following. Unless you are just fixated and locked in to Silver Oak and that classic style, at $70 for the Alexander Valley label, and approaching $100 for the Napa Valley label, this price has crept up to a point that there are many producers that offer more for the money. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1932538




 
Château Troplong Mondot St Emilion Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux 2012



We tasted this wine on release at the UGC Bordeaux North American release tour tasting in Chicago a year before last where this was one of the standouts of the 2012 vintage release
While it makes for an interesting comparison, and rounds a nicely a red tasting flight, its not quite a fair fight standing this more sophisticated and complex Merlot based Bordeaux blend up against the three Big Red focused fruit forward Napa Cabernets. 

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex more subdued black berry and black currant fruits with tones of charcoal, smoke, tobacco and tea with hints of anise turning to smooth gripping tannins on the polished lingering finish. This begs for a grilled steak to reveal the layers and complexity of the fruits from the blend.

Blend of 90% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc.

RM 92 points.  


Snowden Brothers Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
 
We've been fans of Snowden since their inaugural vintage release back in 1993. We still hold several bottles from those earliest 1994, 95 and 96 vintage releases that we acquired on release directly from the producer. We met and featured Randy Snowden at some of wine producer dinners during our Napa Valley excursions from that era. Those Estate Cabernets evolved into a lineup of a second label (Lost Vineyard of which we still hold a couple bottles of a case we acquired from the '97 vintage), the Estate label, and then a Reserve label. 

The flagship Reserve Cabernet is being replaced by series of single-vineyard designated wines from Snowden's estate vineyard which lies on the border of the St. Helena and Rutherford AVAs  adjacent to Hall's Sacrashe vineyard, which is just above their magnificent Rutherford winery, cave and tasting facility. They are also releasing small amounts of limited release bottling of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This label is a blend of 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Petit Verdot which adds, body, structure and color.

Bright garnet colored, medium-full bodied, big bright vibrant full forward brash concentrated black berry and black currant fruits with tones of tangy clove spice, sweet oak, with hints of graphite and anise. It feels like this needs a couple years to settle. 

RM 92 points. 


Château Suduiraut Sauternes 2009

There is always room for 'stickies' ... sweet thick unctuous dessert wines - delicious and applicable to anti pasta pre-dinner course, with salads, with cheese, with dessert, or as a course by itself. This one is a classic - ready for drinking now, or aging for decades. At $48 for a 375 ml half bottle, its not for the average consumer every day sipping wine, rather for special occasions. Dessert wines can run from $4 to $400 - and every price point in between. I would say for the average palette, one won't find anything better and more enjoyable at any price, and you can find one for less. In any event, this one is delicious and enjoyable for many occasions. 

We tasted this wine at the UGC Bordeaux release tastings in Chicago.  

Light honey colored, full bodied, thick, tongue coating, chewy, almost syrupy, sweet honeyed fruit flavors of peach, mango, papaya, lychee, hints of apricots and sweet apples with tones of almond nut on a long mouth puckering lingering finish. Hold them for long term cellaring and watch them darken with age over the years or even decades.

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=874037

http://vinchicago.com/

Saturday, January 30, 2016

UGC Bordeaux 2013 Release Tour Chicago 2016

UGC Bordeaux 2013 Release Tour Chicago 2016

The UGC Bordeaux' (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)) producers' annual North American tour descended on Chicago this week to showcase their 2013 vintage release. The UGC is an association of 133 grands crus producers from heralded Gironde estates. My blogpost from last year's tour event talked in more detail about the UGC and the Bordeaux classification.

Once again, the event is organized by Napa based Balzac Communications, under the direction of Founder Paul Walker and CEO/Principle Mike Wangbickler. About 450 members of the trade and media were treated to taste the latest vintage release from eighty-two producers that were scheduled to attend.

Then, about 250 attendees attended the evening session that is open to the general public, hosted and orchestrated by Doug Jeffirs and the wine team from Binny's Beverage Depot, the Chicagoland superstore.

As in recent years, the event is held in the magnificent ballroom (left) of the Drake Hotel on Chicago's North Michigan Avenue Magnificent Mile, overlooking the famous Lake Shore Drive curve and Oak Street Beach.

Its a wonderful event and we're grateful to the producers who participate in this ambitious and rigorous trip across North America.

This year the itinerary has been expanded to eight cities as new stops have been added for public events in collaboration with select merchants in Florida and Canada, such as the Binny's event here in Chicago.

Its a pleasure to meet the Chateau owners, winemakers, commercial and marketing representatives who attend from the Chateaus. I recognize and appreciate the huge investment and commitment of their time and effort to participate.

This year the weather in Chicago was unusually mild and warm, more than offset by the blizzard that hit the Northeast dumping two feet of snow on New York. Lucky for the tour the storm hit over the weekend reducing disruption, unlike the last two years when several producers faced flight delays and some cancellations.

Once again, the Pour Boys wine team participated to assist the attending Paul and Michael of the Balzac Communications Group team who manage the event - setting up, registering participants, and standing in for producers pouring their wines, hence the name Pour Boys, obtained in recent years when many of the producers were no-shows or late arrivals due to winter storms.

The Pour Boys are avid wine collectors, our wine dinner group that meet regularly for wine centered tastings and social events - shown left, Ernie, Dr Dan, with Paul W, Lyle, me and Bill, as the core group. Such an event is great fun, an escape and vast departure from our normal daily duties tending to corporate litigation, dentistry, high tech, and retirement, when not working these events.

Members of the trade may also recall us from last fall's Grands Crus Classes of St Emilion 2015 Chicago tasting.

Son Ryan and I both attended with special interest this year since 2013 was the birth year of his son Richard Reid, as well as my other grandson John Richard (Richie). So, we're looking to invest in a horizontal collection of 2013 wines to commemorate their birth year as is our practice. Indeed, my collection of my kids' birth year wines was the basis for my cellar being featured in the Collector section of Wine Spectator Magazine back in June of 2001.

The next generation represented by Jared Gelband (shown with me, left), Sommellier at the Wine Bar in the Intercontinental Hotel Chicago, special friend of son-in-law Johnnie and daughter Erin.

The 2013 Bordeaux vintage presented some challenges for the winemakers, starting off as one of the coldest and wet starts to a growing season in more than 40 years and a later than expected harvest. One silver lining to the intense cold faced early was that it may have helped hinder potential diseases in the vines. An impact of the difficult year were lower crop yields, which when managed properly can still result in some fine wines from Producers with terroir, care and attention to detail, and a bit of luck. Watch for lower volumes in the premium labels with more volume attributed to the lesser labels.

A benefit for consumers may be a moderation in prices if they properly reflect the challenging 'lesser' vintage. Looking back on some other similar years, perhaps 1991 and 1992 following the spectacular 1990, these releases provided some good values for more moderate priced drinking.

Most likely, these wines will be ones to provide earlier drinking gratification rather than be properly structured for long term aging. This provides collectors a possible chance to enjoy these off year wines while the greater vintages continue to mature.

Bordeaux along with the rest of France endured a cold February and March, and May was especially cold and wet. Things only got worse in June with an early storm as the cool wet weather continued. Finally warm days came in July with early heat spikes, but still excessive moisture persisted with another storm coming late in the month, perhaps the worst storm in a decade or more.

Finally things improved with warmer days and sunshine arriving in August and continued into September, only to be faced with another storm late in the month.

With the shorter season and less heat, along with lower yields, also look for lower and less developed tannins from the lesser ripe fruits, look for highlights of 2013 to be the white Bordeaux, especially the Sauternes and Barsac.

This was evident in the tasting as the Sauternes and Barsac appellation seemed to be the highlight (left) with all labels showing well. I personally especially liked the Latour Blanche which stood out with its apricot punctuated forward fruits.

The St Julien appellation stood out with highlights being Chateaus Talbot and Beyechevelle. It was a surprise to see David Launay, former winemaker for Gruaud Larose attending again this year, but this time representing Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse (and Chateau Meyney, not presented).

I thought the Pauillac standout was Pichon Baron. I sensed it would be when I opened the bottles earlier, in preparation for the opening of the event, when the room burst with aromatics of floral and berry fruits.

Chateau Clinet and Chateau Troplong Mondot were both notable from the right bank.


Canon-le-Gaffeliere was remarkably light, almost delicate, with a layer of sweetness ... ready for early drinking gratification, but not built for long term aging.

The always delightful, Bernard Olivier attended representing Pessac Leognan Domaine Chevallier, but the evangelism duties were attended to by son Hugo while Bernard tended to ambassadorial duties as presiding President of the UGC. I watch and enjoy observing this transition as I enjoy the experience with my own son Ryan in the progression of his wine appreciation and knowledge, as well as his own cellar collecting.

The 2013 vintage should provide some lower priced wines that will provide earlier near term drinking. 




The Chateau represented on this year's tour.


1 Château de Chantegrive Graves
2 Château Carbonnieux Pessac Léognan
3 Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Pessac Léognan
4 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac Léognan
5 Château de Fieuzal Pessac Léognan
6 Château de France Pessac Léognan
7 Chateau La Louviere Pessac Léognan
8 Château Latour Martillac Pessac Léognan
9 Château Malartic Lagravière Pessac Léognan
10 Château Olivier Pessac Léognan
11 Château Pape Clément Pessac Léognan
12 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac Léognan
13 Château Canon Saint Emilion Grand Cru
14 Château Canon La Gaffelière Saint Emilion Grand Cru
15 Château La Couspaude Saint Emilion Grand Cru
16 Château La Dominique Saint Emilion Grand Cru
17 Château Troplong Mondot Saint Emilion Grand Cru
18 Château Villemaurine Saint Emilion Grand Cru
19 Château Beauregard Pomerol
20 Château Le Bon Pasteur Pomerol
21 Château La Cabanne Pomerol
22 Château Clinet Pomerol
23 Château Gazin Pomerol
24 Château La Pointe Pomerol
25 Château Clarke Listrac Médoc
26 Château Chasse Spleen Moulis en Médoc
27 Château Maucaillou Moulis en Médoc
29 Château Beaumont Haut Médoc
30 Château de Camensac Haut Médoc
31 Château Cantemerle Haut Médoc
32 Château Citran Haut Médoc
33 Château Coufran Haut Médoc
34 Château La Lagune Haut Médoc
35 Château La Tour Carnet Haut Médoc
36 Château La Tour de By Médoc
37 Château Angludet Margaux
38 Château Brane Cantenac Margaux
39 Château Cantenac Brown Margaux
40 Château Dauzac Margaux
41 Château Giscours Margaux
42 Château Kirwan Margaux
43 Château Lascombes Margaux
44 Chateau Malescot St Exupery Margaux
45 Château Prieuré Lichine Margaux
46 Château Rauzan - Ségla Margaux
47 Château du Tertre Margaux
48 Château Beychevelle Saint Julien
49 Château Branaire Ducru Saint Julien
50 Château Gloria Saint Julien
51 Château Gruaud Larose Saint Julien
52 Château Lagrange Saint Julien
53 Château Langoa Barton Saint Julien
54 Château Léoville Barton Saint Julien
55 Château Léoville Poyferré Saint Julien
56 Château Saint Pierre Saint Julien
57 Château Talbot Saint Julien
58 Château d’Armailhac Pauillac
59 Château Clerc Milon Pauillac
60 Château Grand Puy Ducasse Pauillac
61 Château Grand Puy Lacoste Pauillac
62 Château Lynch Bages Pauillac
63 Château Lynch Moussas Pauillac
64 Château Pichon Baron Pauillac
65 Château Lafon - Rochet Saint Estèphe
66 Château Ormes De Pez Saint Estèphe
67 Château de Pez Saint Estèphe
68 Château Phélan Ségur Saint Estèphe
69 Château Coutet Barsac
70 Château Doisy Daëne Barsac
71 Château Bastor - Lamontagne Sauternes
72 Château de Fargues Sauternes
73 Château Guiraud Sauternes
74 Chateau Clos Haut Peyraguey Sauternes
75 Château Lafaurie  Peyraguey Sauternes
76 Château de Rayne Vigneau Sauternes
77 Château Suduiraut Sauternes
78 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes