Thanksgiving feast features diverse Pinot vs Rhone Wine Approach

Thanksgiving feast features diverse Pinot vs Rhone Approach to Wine Pairing

Thanksgiving dinner was held at son Ryan's and Michelle's for a gala family gathering of seventeen. Ryan and I both sourced some special wines for the event, taking two divergent approaches to accompany the dinner feast. Ryan served two Rhone wines while I brought two California Pinot Noirs. Both were ideal accompaniments to the delicious festive turkey, yams, mashed potatoes, dressing and gravy.

From the Northern Rhone, Ryan served Guigal Saint Joseph, and from the Southern Rhone, he served a Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape. From California I brought a Calera Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir and a Ninety Plus Cellars Sonoma Pinot Noir.

Rhone Valley Syrah

I admit we've missed out on Northern Rhone Syrahs which is tragic given our fondness for Syrah/Shiraz, and considering how much we collect and drink this varietal. We do hold a collection of (Southern Rhone) Chateauneuf-du-Papes which include Syrah in the blend, but our focus has been primarily on Australian Syrah/Shiraz with an occasional Californian and once in a while, one from Washington State.

Son Ryan has discovered Northern Rhone labels and has been preaching their virtues and brought them to our attention. These are the original old world Syrahs, after all, and deserve attention of fans of the varietal.

Readers of this blog might recall our visit to the legendary Napa Valley Syrah producer Lagier-Meredith, where Carol Meredith is a plant geneticist. I asked her about the relationship between the Shiraz and Syrah varietals from the Rhone Valley, California and Australia. She indicated that at the end of the day, they're all related and essentially from the same lineage. So differences in labels from the various regions should be attributed generally to terrior, the distinct sense of 'place' from where the grapes are sourced - soil, climate, exposure, etc.

Tonight's Rhone experience showed two remarkable Syrahs or Syrah inclusive blends.

Guigal Saint Joseph Rhone 2009

Of course, knowledgeable wine folks know that old world producers (Italy, France, Germany) name or label their wines after the appellation or place where the grapes in the wine are sourced - Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Burgundy, St. Emilion, Bordeaux, and leave it to the consumer to know what grapes are associated with that growing area. New world producers, on the other hand, name or label their wines after the grape or varietal in the bottle - Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah, etc., as well as the locale from where the grapes are sourced. One might argue that this may be due to the fact that New World wine consumers are less knowledgeable, but it could also be argued that there is less correlation between regions and the varietals grown there - such as Sonoma Cabernet (a Bordeaux varietal) as well as Pinot Noir (a Burgundy varietal).

Guigal Saint Joseph Rhone 2009

While not as complex in the blend as a Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which features Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, (hence the moniker 'GSM' given to some of this blend when from other regions), perhaps Cinsault, and may include several other varietals, this single varietal Syrah based wine still showed notable depth and complexity. This Northern Rhone label provides high QPR (quality to price ratio), especially compared to the CDP's and some of the named label Northern Rhones.

This was dark garnet and purple colored, medium full bodied, aromas and flavors of full, forward ripe black berry and black cherry fruits accented by a layer of cracked pepper, herbs, and tones of smoked meat, hints of creosote and smoke, with medium acidity, gripping but approachable tannins. 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1262699


Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2009

A visit to this legendary producer was one of the highlights of our trip to Chateauneuf-du-Pape a few years ago.

This was one of the most expressive, vibrant yet balanced and polished Vieux-Telegraphs, or CDP's for that matter, that I recall having in a long time.

Bright garnet colored, medium-full bodied, lively, rich, concentrated, forward red berry fruits predominate, accented by some dark berry flavors with a pleasant flavorful punctuation of tones of white pepper and hints of clove on a long elegant complex but smooth polished finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1023306


Fitting the occasion of son Ryan hosting the holiday, I brought a Ryan Vineyard Calera Mt Harlan Pinot Noir along with a Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 125 Monterey County Pinot Noir for a comparison tasting.

Calera are one of the original Pinot Noir varietal producers in California dating back to the '70's. Their founding and ascent are featured in the entertaining and educational classic wine book "The Heart Break Grape", about the challenges of finding and developing a suitable site for the finicky Pinot Nor grape in the untested California wine regions. Calera, known for vineyard designated Pinots released the Ryan Vineyard label in the last decade with the 2004 vintage release.


Pinot Noir makes up a fraction of our cellar collection as I am not a big fan or collector of Pinot Noir, but we do keep a couple labels for suitable drinking to fit the cuisine and occasion. Hence, I tend to be less discriminating and palate trained in Pinot than I am the Bordeaux varietals, which I favor. Knowing Ryan was opening Rhone wines, I selected and brought Pinot Noir, also suited to traditional Thanksgiving fare cuisine.

Perhaps it is my lack of Pinot discernment that I found a $46 to be almost comparable to one costing less than half the price, however, as I've written often, Ninety-Plus Cellars and the negociant practice often feature quality releases at a fraction of their comparable value due to their sourcing of overstock or excessive inventory from acclaimed producers. Such producers' branding is maintained by their anonymity as they are indicated by their "Lot' designation.

Hence this comparison tasting between these two Pinots.

Calera Ryan Vineyard Mt Harlan Pinot Noir 2011

Translucent ruby red colored, medium light bodied, scent of dusty rose, cherry and raspberry fruit flavors with a hint of cola and spice turning to tones of mushroom and smoke with fine grained delicate tannins on the moderate lingering finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1774888

 

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 125 Monterey County Pinot Noir 2013

Similar characteristics to the Calera, albeit slightly less complex and less polished. While the Monterey County source for the fruit is unknown, it could come from the area close to or similiar to the Hollister Mt Harlan site of Calera. This provides good QPR (quality price ratio) with similarity to the Calera at a fraction of the price.

Garnet colored, medium light bodied, aromas and flavors of red raspberries and black cherry give way to tones of tangy clove spice and hint of cinnamon on the clinging tannin finish. 

RM 87 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2163001

Deep Sea Conway Family Wines - Paso Robles Merlot 2011

Deep Sea Conway Family Wines - Paso Robles Merlot 2011

Another selection from a wine brand seeking identity, or failing to capitalize on its heritage?

Another commentary on my study and observations on wine branding. Traveling for business this week provided the opportunity to stop in a wine shop in a remote city. This always affords a chance to see different producers and labels that don't otherwise show up in our large metropolitan home market. Sometimes smaller producers can only fill the demands of a smaller market, or other reasons. So it was that I found Deep Sea Merlot and Deep Sea Chardonnay from Conway Family Wines in Santa Barbara.

We've seen this label in secondary and tertiary markets from time to time. The rarity of the label may be exacerbated by the fact that some of their labels are no longer being produced, so finds like this are anomalies of the tail of the distribution chain. In some cases these offerings may be Negociant labels, wherein they purchase fruit from growers, or even purchase excess wine from producers, and market them under their own private label (s).

I've written in these pages about the branding challenge faced by a Negociant, that of building affinity for a brand that is associated with terroir, or sense of place, for a particular wine, when the grapes are sourced from various anonymous growers that may change with each vintage.

How stark the contrast with Chateau Laroze, showcased in last week's blog, where the land has been in the family since 1610, producing from the same facility under the same label since 1885. Such is the extent of the difference between 'old world' and 'new world' producers' and their wines.

We have found Deep Sea wines including their Syrah and Cabernet but this was the first time seeing and experiencing their Merlot. I've written in these pages about this producer and those labels from the California Central Coast and one from Napa Valley. Generally, they have provided modest price, good price point QPR (Quality Price Ratio) wines.

Their negociant practice is broadcast in their testament, "We purchase fruit from noteworthy vineyards in Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo and Monterey Counties, and the Napa Valley. We contract with specific blocks, and actively manage the individual vines in that area. We work with growers to formulate viticultural practices and the rows are farmed to our specifications."

But, they also have their own vineyards as indicted by their website, “As with our estate vineyards, we concentrate on quality rather than yield per acre, and we carefully hand pick the grapes when they reach the right balance of flavor, acidity and sugar."

According to the Conway Family Wines website, the Estate is the thirty-five hundred acre Rancho Arroyo Grande in the Central Coast region of California, thirteen miles from the Pacific Ocean, where the coastal range meets the mountains of the Los Padres National Forest.

When I search Cellartracker for Deep Sea Merlot, a pretty good indicator of the marketplace with over a half million collectors and a several million bottles featured, I find this producer, Deep Sea Paso Robles Merlot, as well as Deep Sea Rancho Arroyo Grande Vineyard Merlot, although only one vintage of each. As a consumer of these wines, do I presume one (the first) is a Negociant offering while the latter is Estate Bottled?

As their website indicates, "Deep Sea wines showcase the maritime influence on grapes grown in California’s coastal climate. The grapes for our wine are grown in vineyards close to the Pacific Ocean, (where)Vineyards along the California coastline are cooled by fog and ocean breezes."
 

So it is with Deep Sea, a collection of labels but a conundrum in branding. I say this because we also hold Deep Sea Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Of course, the Deep Sea reference to proximity to the Ocean and its effects work for the Central Coast, and would work for the Sonoma Coast, but are a paradox when associated with inland NapaValley.

This leads me to the branding question; if the Conway Family owns spectacular lands with estate vineyards with such a rich heritage, why not leverage such and establish the pedigree and branding associated with terroir for your wines?

The personality of family association is strong for branding and building brand affinity and loyalty. Look at the number of premier labels bearing the family or 'place' name.

Indeed, the Conway Family feature a wonderful photo of their beautiful extended family of seven siblings and offspring.

 So Deep Sea, or Conway Family Wines, is Deep Sea Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon an oxymoron, an anomaly, or a step along the path to establishing an evolving, maturing branding strategy?

I see on their website the inaugural release of another label - Conway Santa Barbara County Cabernet Sauvignon. I will look forward to tasting their signature brand premium label release (s) and will watch their evolution with interest.

Meanwhile, we tasted the Deep Sea Paso Robles Merlot 2009

Dark ruby colored, medium full bodied, bright full aromatics project the flavors to come - full, somewhat forward black berry and black raspberry fruits with tones of cedar, a slight mustiness and hints of creosote and earthy leather on a moderate, soft tannin finish.

RM 86-87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1847704

http://www.conwayfamilywines.com/

What is the real Deep Sea?

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 95 Super Cuvee Cabernet Petit Sirah 2013

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 95 Super Cuvee Cabernet Petit Sirah 2013

I have written often in these pages about the negociant practice and Ninety Plus Cellars. When they get it right, they offer great wines of outstanding value. This unique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah appears to be such a find. Babysitting for the grandkids offered the opportunity to sample this from son Ryan's cellar, a selection he picked up earlier in the day at Vin Chicago, who featured this in their weekly tasting. It was immediately apparent this is one of those rare high QPR exciting quality wines. 

According to Cellartracker, this is the third release of this wine under this label. We've reported that the Lot 95 designation refers to the source supplier of this wine to the negociant 90+ Cellars. This ranks up there with 90+ Lot 101 that we enjoyed so much that I wrote about in several blogposts. 

Also, this is an indication of the quality of the 2013 Napa Valley Cabernets which are appearing in the marketplace and are presenting themselves as great wines at great values. 

According to the supplier, this offbeat blend comes from a small winery whose wines regularly achieve scores in the mid-90s. They were able to obtain several barrels from what they call 'this superstar producer'. They cite the reference 'source price', the applicable price of the original Cuvée under its original brand and label from the producer at $75. In any event its a great find at their release price of $30. Vin Chicago is offering it at $24. I'll be heading over to pick up a case. Good news that the label indicates 600 cases being available.

90+ Cellars "Lot 95 - Super Cuvee" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon/Petite Sirah 2013

Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, the concentrated blackberry, black currant and plum fruits are accented with a layer of expresso and tar, with hints of vanilla, cedar and anise. Supplier notes sum it well citing, "firm and intense yet well rounded with soft edges and a lively dose of black cherry fruit that unfolds into a smooth, velvety finish".


RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2185244

Vindicated Tre Leoni Napa Reds with DOC Butcher's Cheese Plate

Vindicated Tre Leoni Napa Reds with DOC Butcher's Cheese Plate

For a casual impromptu wine tasting experience, Linda and I stopped in at DOC Wine Bar and Restaurant at Yorktown in Lombard. We selected two new release Napa Reds BTG (by the glass) from the dozen plus offerings, to accompany the Butcher's Platter cheese and meat plate - Vindicated Napa Cabernet and Whitehall Lane Tre Leoni Red Blend. We selected the blue cheese, Old Amsterdam Dutch cows cheese, aged cheddar, brie with pear and  Nueske's Wisconsin Smoked Duck Breast, with fresh bread.


Vindicated Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Lot #4 2012 

The stylish branding features an interesting artistic label that provides attribution on their published trade targeted tasting notes download, but not on their front or rear labels (shown below). Is the grecian angelic figure pencil sketch figure seeking to mimic or follow the super premium Harlan Estate 'Maiden' red wine label (shown below)? According to their web download, the label art is attributed to a lithograph from the Thomas Addis Emmet Collection of illustrations at the New York Public Library, (1828 -1919).

There is little information provided about the source of the fruit other than the "Lot #4" designation on the rear label. A major large production, highly prolific negociant uses the 'lot' designation to identify the source of the product so that subsequent releases from the same source can be so associated.

There is also similar lack of information provided on the producer who according to the rear label 'vinted and bottled' the product, other than their website url and city of origin, Healdsburg.

I suspect this is a negociant produced wine with its vagueness and anonymity of attribution and lack of 'estate' designation, which would indicate the fruit being sourced from the producer's property.

As I have written in the past, subsequent releases of this label may be from the same source, or not, hence the lack of terrior, or sense of place of the site should be considered. It will be interesting to compare such releases, if they appear.

This 2012 release has dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, ripe black cherry and black raspberry fruits with tones of cassis and hint of cedar and spicy oak on the tangy moderate tannin finish.

RM 88 points.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2067509

 vindicatedwines.com




Whitehall Lane Tre Leoni (Three Lions) Napa Valley Red Wine 2012

A newly discovered label that offers a pleasant easy drinking wine that is also complex and sophisticated enough for food from this long time popular producer, that provides great QPR - quality price ratio if you can find it.

The name Tre Leoni refers to three generations of the Leonardini Family, proprietors of Whitehall Lane. This is an interesting blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. This is the third release of this label.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, smooth and nicely balanced black berry and raspberry fruits with layers of sweet spicy oak and mocha on a moderate tannin lingering finish.

RM 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2023928

http://www.whitehalllane.com/

Twenty Bench Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

Twenty Bench Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

Found this in the cooler to go with pepper steak and salad that L prepared for dinner before she ran out for the evening. Besides our subterranean cellar we also have a cooler adjacent to the kitchen for every day or ready to drink wines. It mostly contains white wines but I checked it tonight and pulled out this bottle, so placed for consumption at some point. What a nice surprise! This certainly exceeded expectations.

This is from Nine North Wine Company, another négociant wine supplier that offers a portfolio of small production wines from Napa Valley and other California North Coast appellations. Like most négociants, they strive for high QPR wines - high quality and value relative to price, sourced from small production producers, or others seeking to liquidate (no pun intended) excess inventory or production.

Founded in 2001 by Jim Regusci and James Harder, Nine North Wine Company established a reputation for producing appellation-specific wines that provided good value for the price; their objective to leverage their network of grower producer contacts into a portfolio of négociant wines.

In December of 2012 Nine North Wine Company Nine North was taken over by Chris Nickolopoulos and Elija Pfister who had also established a reputation for producing a portfolio of appellation-specific wines' négociant wines.

Chris Nickolopoulos grew up in the midwest in a restaurant family where he was immersed in the food business. In 1990, Chris moved into a noisy little apartment next to the Addison “el” tracks in Chicago’s Wrigleyville.  He immersed himself in Chicago’s culinary scene tending bar at the swanky Spiaggia, and moved on to various roles in the wine trade. After 10 years, he moved to San Francisco to lead a respected fine wine sales organization where he spent the next seven years traveling the world tasting great wines and helping build some respected wine brands in the country.

Elijah Pfister grew up on a family farm in Northern California. When his family urbanized and moved to the Bay Area, he looked to neighboring Sonoma and Napa to pursue his appreciation of rural life and farming in viticulture and winemaking. Elijah’s uncle owned a large wine and liquor retailer and Elijah followed in his footsteps in the wine trade when after obtaining his MBA from Stanford, he pursued his love for wine in the business.

Teaming up with Chris’s connections, they assembled a portfolio of imports and launched Maritime Wine Trading Collective in January of 2009. They progressed their business parlaying contacts in the Northern California wine industry into a portfolio of négociant wines.

Twenty Bench Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley was one of the first wines released by Nine North Wine Company twelve years ago. They like to emphasize many other not-so famous-parcels of land throughout Northern California that yield terrific fruit from sites with land values not as astronomical as Napa, thereby producing fruit at substantially lower cost per ton resulting in excellent wines that are a good value for the variety.

In the fall of 2000, Nine North purchased 20 tons of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from a friend's Napa Valley vineyard. Their winemaker, Charles Hendricks, crafted this wine from what the cellar hands called 'Twenty Bench, 'signifying the 20 tons of fruit from the gentle rising bench land vineyard from which they were picked.

When Charles presented barrel samples to the principles, they noticed the name 'Twenty Bench' written in chalk on the side of the barrels. The result was a high QPR wine with the perfect name.

According to the producers, the label design is based on a native petroglyph that pays homage to the Wappo Indians, the first descendants of the Napa Valley. The name Wappo, which means 'brave', was given to this tribe who lived peacefully in the Napa Valley area going back perhaps more than a thousand years. Notably, in 1836 there were more than 8,000 Wappos living in the Napa Valley area. By 1850 there were less than 500. In 1908, less than 40. This wine is a tribute to those early inhabits of the hallowed land today known as Napa Valley.

At a dozen years of age, I didn't know what to expect, but was pleasantly surprised by a moderately complex, nicely balanced, moderately polished wine with dark garnet color and medium body. An expressive nose with flavors of kirsch, floral, with brambly black raspberry fruits, tones of cola and a hint of mocha taken over in the mid palate turning to predominant spicy tangy acidity with smokey red fruit and candied cherry on the firm tannin laced lingering finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=104962

http://www.ninenorthwines.com/

Deep Sea Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Conway Family Wines Deep Sea Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Consistent with earlier blog post. Consider this a Negociant wine since, according to the wine producer, it is sourced from a "number of the finest, well regarded vineyards within Napa AVA’s of Rutherford, Atlas Peak and Pritchard Hill, with each one contributing their unique characteristics to our blend".

According to the producer's release, "the dark fruit notes along with distinctive and pleasant chalky sagebrush notes greet your nose at first. This Cabernet has as plush an entry as we’ve seen in a lot of years. A round, soft, mouth filling wine that shows a smooth backbone of tannins and balanced acidity. The finish wraps up nicely with a lingering reminder of the mature dark fruits, ever so slight a hint of new oak, and the ever present palette of flavors that make Cabernet so sought after!"

This has incredible QPR - quality price ratio, at its price point below $20. The wine producer lists it at $39. 

Opened for casual wine sipping with cheese but its sophisticated enough to be worthy as a perfect compliment to grilled steak dinner. We left half the bottle and it was even better the next day.

Slightly obtuse upon opening but softened and become more balanced and approachable after about an hour. Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, full fruit forward black raspberry and cherry fruits with a layer of spice and hints of graphite and tea, turning to tones of mocha with nice balance and smooth polished tannin finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1517213

http://www.conwayfamilywines.com/

B Side Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

B Side Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

B Side wines are the product of Don Sebastiani & Sons, that claims it's heritage as part of the Sonoma Winemaking Family that dates back to 1904. Fourth generation producer Donny Sebastiani is the great–grandson of Samuele, the Sebastiani patriarch. In 2001, Don Sebastiani and his two sons, Donny and August, established Don Sebastiani & Sons, with a goal of building a new wine company in the negociant style of the early Sebastiani winemakers.

They source grapes from vineyards all over California’s appellations and beyond, claiming this enables them to be free to explore the best quality fruit that each vintage has to offer. As I've written here time and again over the last year, the negociant supply model provides the opportunity for imaginative, high QPR wines. But on the flipside, (no pun intended here), since they don't own or control the source of the fruit, they can be prone to 'one-hit wonders' (pun intended) with a blockbuster release one year, but when its gone it may be done, with no chance for a repeat. Since the wine could be sourced from different places each year, it's potentially the opposite of terroir, the association of wine to a particular place, and all the elements of soil, micro-climate, elevation, sun exposure and so on that give that site an identity reflected in its produce.

I've written much about branding here recently. The branding concept here is based on the old vinyl records that were the means to release and distribute music from the early 1950s through the '70's. Popular records were the two-sided '45'. The "A" side contained the featured hit song of the release, while the "B" side was sometimes 'filler', or an additional release to fill out the record. But once in a while, the 'B' side was as much a hit as the leader, often the real find, frequently revealing an undiscovered gem.

B Side wines play on this metaphor or concept and likens the A Side to the  A-list world of Napa Valley wines from the prominent prestigious properties on main street Napa Valley, along mainstream Highway 29 and Silverado Trail. B Side writes, "Hailing from Napa's "flip" side, B Side reds are crafted with grapes sourced from the slightly-off-the-beaten-track vineyards along the valley's eastern hillsides. They're authentic originals: a little experimental and unexpected, crafted and perfected behind-the-scenes for those with a penchant for discovery."

"The grapes comprising our two B Side offerings come from the "flip" side of Napa: vineyards tucked into the benchlands, slopes and hillsides of eastern Napa Valley near the scenic Silverado Trail."

They claim the majority of this blend comes from "selected vineyards in Oak Knoll, Calistoga and Yountville. Due to the warmer weather in Calistoga and Yountville, the fruit picked here adds impressive depth and flavors to the wine. The Oak Knoll district is ideally situated near Los Carneros, allowing for early morning fog, cool nights and extended hang time, all of which play a major role in developing smoothness and concentrated color. The vines are nearing 20 years of age in most of these blocks and have provided for a near perfect harvest of Clone 7 Cabernet Sauvignon this vintage."

Therein lies the negociant's challenge. Do they have rights to the follow on vintage (s) of this wine? Can we expect a release next year? Or is this a one hit wonder? And when will we know? So don't get too invested in this and treat as a single release, and stay tuned for what happens next. In fairness, this is their third release of B Side Napa Cab, but its not clear if they're all from the same source, or not. In any event, enjoy a good value, high QPR interesting release Napa cab while it lasts.

This B-Side Cellars Cabernet  contains 6% Petit Verdot and 4% Merlot to round out the blend to add complexity and aromatic intrigue. The wine was aged in 80% French oak for 14 months before bottling.

From the winery: "Our beautifully crafted 2012 B Side Cabernet Sauvignon is pure, rich and deep, featuring aromas of blackberry, sweet tobacco leaf and notes of warm caramel. This wine is marked by a distinctively complex and subtle mix of black currant, toasted almond and anise, with a supple core of cherry and dark chocolate flavors. Full-bodied and mouth filling, the wine shows tremendous dimension with a seamless finish that lingers throughout the palate." They say this 2012 bottling has yet to be professionally reviewed, but the 2011 vintage garnered 90 points and an "Editors' Choice" designation by Wine Enthusiast.

The flagship B Side Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is dark inky garnet colored, full-bodied with black berry and black raspberry fruit flavors with tones of graphite and tobacco with a hint of mocha on a finish of moderate lingering tannins.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1793906

http://bsidewines.com/

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 101 Syrah 2009

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 101 Syrah 2009 - A limited offer that continues to please

I wrote in this blog about Ninety Plus Cellars and their negotiant practice of buying excess grapes, bulk wine, or even bottled wine from growers or producers and selling it under their own 'private' label. And I've written several times herein about their Lot 101 Columbia Valley Washington Syrah. The following is an excerpt from an earlier blogpost.

As soon as I tasted this Syrah at the local wine merchant Malloy's store in Naperville, I knew they had a winner, substantiating their claims that they had landed a top rated Syrah and were able to sell it at a deeply discounted price. I probably should have bought as much as I could obtain. Well actually, I did clean them out, and then went back for more when their next shipment arrived the following week. But I did leave some for others. I may regret leaving it behind!

This is a 2009 Columbia Valley, Washington, Syrah that they market under the label Ninety Plus Cellars, Collectors Series, Lot 101. The label specifies simply '250 cases'. Interestingly it doesn't say produced. How many cases were sold under some other, perhaps well known, perhaps higher priced label?


So tonight, Linda and I opened a bottle of this label for a nice casual steak dinner at home. Since she is heading out of town for several days and it was our only evening together, I wanted to enjoy a special bottle, certainly one that I knew we would enjoy.

We opened this special limited offer bottling and enjoyed it immensely, as we have on several other occasions. After enjoying it (again) so much, I went back to the local Malloy's wine shop, not expecting to find this label since I cleaned them out, not once, but twice. Lo and behold, they had several more bottles which I promptly seized (again). The staff there and I both lamented that, no doubt, this will be the 'end' of this wine. Having added more to our holdings, it will extend our enjoyment for some time further.
 Consistent with earlier tasting notes, this was delicious again, only slightly short of a blockbuster high QPR release. 

Dark inky garnet colored, medium to full bodied, this full throttle Syrah reveals layers of blackberry and black currants fruits with tones of sweet vanilla, caramel and spice with hints of black pepper on a lingering smooth silky tannin finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1742790

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/wines/lot-101-collectors-series-syrah

Conway Family Wines Deep Sea Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Conway Family Wines Deep Sea Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Consider this a Negociant wine since, according to the wine producer, it is sourced from a "number of the finest, well regarded vineyards within Napa AVA’s of Rutherford, Atlas Peak and Pritchard Hill, with each one contributing their unique characteristics to our blend".

According to the producer's release, "the dark fruit notes along with distinctive and pleasant chalky sagebrush notes greet your nose at first. This Cabernet has as plush an entry as we’ve seen in a lot of years. A round, soft, mouth filling wine that shows a smooth backbone of tannins and balanced acidity. The finish wraps up nicely with a lingering reminder of the mature dark fruits, ever so slight a hint of new oak, and the ever present palette of flavors that make Cabernet so sought after!"

This has incredible QPR - quality price ratio, at its price point below $20. The wine producer lists it at $39. 

Opened for casual wine sipping with cheese but its sophisticated enough to be worthy as a perfect compliment to grilled steak dinner. I left half the bottle and it was much better two days later when I took it to Erin and Johnny's for steak dinner.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, full fruit forward black raspberry and cherry fruits with a layer of spice and hints of graphite and tea, turning to tones of mocha with nice balance and smooth polished tannin finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1517213

http://www.conwayfamilywines.com/

Marilyn Merlot and Norma Jean Wines - A Study in Branding

Marilyn Merlot and Norma Jean Wines - Now That's Branding! 

Another blog post on wine marketing and branding - one of the more imaginative and marketing driven labels is a study in the ultimate branding exercise that totally transcends the wine experience. I wrote in a recent blogpost about wine branding about a couple of labels which were lacking a theme and absent of typical recognizable elements in accordance with branding practices. To the other extreme, Nova Wines have created an entire franchise on one celebrity identification theme based on a play on words - Marilyn Merlot. Marilyn Wines holds an exclusive agreement with the estate of Marilyn Monroe for the use of the name and the images in their wine marketing and packaging.

Playing on the name of the famous cinema starlet, Marilyn Monroe, the marketers at Nova Wines have  built the brand on an annual release of moderate priced Merlot varietal featuring an authentic Marilyn Monroe photo on the label. What might have started out as a whimsical or even corny idea has turned into a fun wine that has an almost cult following in some precincts of collectors. Vintage bottles of the label fetch high prices that far exceed the pedigree of the wine, explicable only due to the marketing/branding of the label collection. I know of one reputable wine shop in a mid-size midwestern city that holds a 1985 Marilyn Merlot that they're offering at $3500.

Marilyn Merlot 2003

I've assembled a portfolio of Marilyn labels in my label library on my winesite. And, I admit I've collected a 'vertical' collection of the wine that spans the past dozen years. We do have fun gifting these wines to friends for suitable occasions, great for those not into the wine so much, but taken by the clever packaging. The Marilyn Merlot label is now in its 26th year.

Evidence of the Nova team marketing savvy and building upon the success of their branding, the portfolio has grown to more than a half dozen labels all playing to the 'Marilyn' theme, bearing whimsical names, Marilyn Meritage, Sauvignon Blond, Blond de Noirs, and this label, Norma Jeane.

Playing on the name Norma Jeane, the given name of the starlet before she became 'Marilyn' famous, the wine is a modest priced entry level sipper intended to be consumed young or soon after release, lacking the sophistication and pedigree for aging. As with the Marilyn label, "each vintage of Norma Jeane Merlot features a photograph taken of the young actress in the years just before she captured the imagination of the American public as Marilyn Monroe", according to their website.

Norma Jeane is the low end, budget priced label in the portfolio which continues to grow in a range of varietal offerings and price points. The family has grown to also include Marilyn Cabernet and a recently released Velvet Collection. According to their marketing, "Norma Jeane wines have captured the imagination of collectors and as well as those who simply enjoy the exuberance of young and delicious Merlot." Indeed, its more marketing than viticulture and winecraft as the wine's appeal exceeds its wine pedigree. They're striving to address this with their premium Velvet Collection label.

Evidence of their marketing success is in the pricing of their 'vintage' wines. Today, their winesite offers ten vintages of the otherwise 'modest' Norma Jeane label. The release price from Nova for their 2013 vintage is $13 and its generally available from $10 to $14. The 2012 release is also available at $13. But note the price escalation for earlier vintage releases - the 2011 is offered on their website at $70! The 2010 vintage is a bargain at $35 if you look the hefty $110 price for the 2009! The rest of the flight is available at 2008 - $70, 2007 - $55, 2006 - $65, and the 2005 is priced at $100. But wait, after the bargain priced 2004, available at $50, the 2003 is $155 and the 2002 is $175. Hold on, the 2001 and 2000 are offered at $225 each, and you can round out your vertical collection with the 1999 at $110 and the 1998 at $160. Don't fret, the 1998- 2009 Vertical Collection is In Stock and available for $1500. I can't make this up. Don't forget, this is a $12 every day sipper. Marketing!

I refer to Nova Wines as marketers as opposed to producers, since I believe they are more negociants than producers - purchasing fruit or wine from others and remarketing it under their own branding and labeling. I am not aware of land holdings or vineyards attributable to Nova Wines.

According to their stated history, "Marilyn Wines traces its origins to 1981, when a small group of friends started making wine at their home near St. Helena in the Napa Valley.  One evening in 1983, over dinner and a bottle of homemade merlot, the concept of "Marilyn Merlot" was born.  The wine enjoyed a good deal of popularity around the valley and was often donated to charity auctions and given as Christmas gifts.'

"In 1985, the playful idea and the fine wine that bore its name led to the limited production of Marilyn Merlot for sale to the public.  Over the 25 years, continuing acclaim from critics, collectors, and lovers of fine wine have led to the production of Marilyn Merlot, Marilyn Cabernet, Norma Jeane, the Velvet Collection, Marilyn Blonde de Noirs, Marilyn Red Dress, and Marilyn Sauvignon Blonde, and Marilyn Meritage."

While they may own some land, and make some of their own wine, I suspect their incredible success has grown beyond that capacity such that they now source their product from other growers and or winemakers to meet their demands.

As I wrote in earlier blogs about negociants and their practices, while this often provides notable wines at extraordinary prices, since their sources may change from vintage to vintage, there may be no such element of terroir, sense  of place with consistent predictability or uniformity in the product. Here again, this isn't about the wine, its about the brand. Kudos to the Nova team for creating an marketing case study in branding, contrary to my earlier citations on the practice.

 

Norma Jeane Red Wine 2013

Ironically, I picked this up at the local wine shop while I was there to pick up the absolute last available bottles of another negociant label - Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 101 Syrah. Now that its gone, its gone forever. I scoured the market to find the last stock and grabbed it all.

While I follow the releases of Norma Jeane, based on their marketing and labeling featuring images of the starlet early in her career, I've not been a consumer of this wine. I don't have a palette for or particularly enjoy low end modest red wines, despite their affordability at around $10. Its a double edged sword, that as one tastes and studies more wine, and develops a conscious palette for such, one's preferences tend to elevate to more sophisticated wines, which naturally cost more. This is one of the perils of wine enjoyment, one's 'tastes' tend to become more expensive with the more educated palette. As I've written before, this isn't continuous, one reaches their limit of sophistication and preference at a particular level, that typically reflects a pricepoint, whether it be $20, $35, $50 or more. Above that level, I contend that price does not equate with wine quality or appeal, rather marketing and label 'cache' takes over and dictates prices as much as the product itself. Aside the rarified air of certain ultra premium wines, certainly there is a point of diminishing returns for the vast majority of labels. 

This wine was vegetal in character with green pepper predominating over any essence of berry fruit, almost to a point of airing wet grass with woodiness. Buy it for the label, not the contents. Indeed, people will.

RM 83 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1866352

Deep Sea Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Deep Sea Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Consider this a negociant wine since, according to the wine producer, it is sourced from a "number of the finest, well regarded vineyards within Napa AVA’s of Rutherford, Atlas Peak and Pritchard Hill, with each one contributing their unique characteristics to our blend".

According to the producer's release, "the dark fruit notes along with distinctive and pleasant chalky sagebrush notes greet your nose at first. This Cabernet has as plush an entry as we’ve seen in a lot of years. A round, soft, mouth filling wine that shows a smooth backbone of tannins and balanced acidity. The finish wraps up nicely with a lingering reminder of the mature dark fruits, ever so slight a hint of new oak, and the ever present palette of flavors that make Cabernet so sought after!"

This has incredible QPR - quality price ratio at its price point below $20. The wine producer lists it at $39. 

This was a perfect compliment to grilled sirloin steak dinner. Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, full fruit forward black raspberry and cherry fruits with a layer of spice, nice balance and smooth polished tannin finish.
RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1517213

Ironside Cellars California Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Ironside Cellars California Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

I discovered this wine when shopping Binny's, the mega-wine merchant with thirty stores around Chicago-land. The expensive packaging and presentation with the OWC (original wood case) and heavy thick glass bottles belayed the price-point at $15.

We also had fun with the 'I' foil capsule since three of our kids went to U of I and two of them went to IU!

The back label testimony boasted this was a 'cab drinker's kind of wine .... full bodied but focused, like a firm handshake that leads into a big hug,"

It cites a 'blend from some of California's best vineyards made by some seriously talented winemakers'. Well, its what I live for to discover serious wines at killer QPR (quality price ratio) price-points. The quest continues as this is not one.   

The first indication of caveat emptor was the lack of terrior .... 'sense of place'. Notably, wine labeled as Napa Valley must contain 75% of its contents being from Napa Valley. Labeled  'California' Cabernet Sauvignon carries the same covenant, the proportion of contents being from the state, with its vast diversity of climates and terrains and soil types .... all those elements of a place.

This 2012 vintage of Ironside Cabernet Sauvignon is made from fruit grown in vineyards in the Napa Valley, Sonoma, Mendocino, and Paso Robles. This is quite a diversity of locales with varied conditions for growing varietal grapes.

Upon opening the bottle, I immediately noticed the cork was labeled '90+ Cellars', the negociant whom I've written about several times in these pages. This seemed strangely backwards - normally, the Negociant buys surplus juice or wine from producers and 'private labels' it under their general negociant brand. Here was an apparent producer branding a wine label sourced from numerous sources and then 'cellared and bottled by (a negociant) 90+ Cellars', as stated on their website.

Such is the topsy turvey oftimes convoluted state of the wine industry.

The final indication of a wine to watch (out) for was the blend. The final blend consists of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon plus 4% each of Malbec, Petit Verdot & Petite Sirah rounded out with 3% Merlot.   

While the label (emphasis theirs) says "each of these grapes adds layers of aroma and texture to the Cabernet. Malbec adds richness, the Petit Verdot lends spice, Petite Syrah supplies power, and the Merlot a layer of earthiness."

Old world wine producers have been blending wines for more than two hundred years and have learned the optimal blends such as the Bordeaux combination of Cabernet, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. New world experimentation with other combinations is an adventure, as is this combination of grapes from such diverse and varied regions with their disparate terrior (s).  

This is a $15 cab that is selling at an appropriate price point with reasonable value. For those of us with more discerning or discriminating pallets, its probably not a wine to buy except as a 'pizza wine' ... every day drinking with pizza but not wine oriented foods. 

The producer's tasting notes cite "hearty aromas of black cherries, plums and tobacco leaf with traces of fresh pepper and sweet spice". I found the wine a bit disjointed and awkward, a bit 'hot' with a sense of metallic graphite and lacking polish and finesse. 

RM 84 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1847655

http://www.ironsidecellars.com/ 

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 53 Gran Reserva Mendoza Cabernet

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 53 Gran Reserva Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

I've written a couple times about this Negotiant - Broker and some of the extraordinary values that occasionally appear. Recently we've featured finds such as Lot 101 Columbia Valley Syrah and Lot 500 Cabernet from another like vendor (Cameron Hughs). This wine is not of that caliber or discovery, but it is notable none-the-less. One anomaly that belies their model of maintaining secrecy to 'protect' the source, this particular bottling reveals the producer source on the cork when extracted from the bottle. How does that happen? They likely purchased bottled product that had not yet been labeled. This is a common practice of producers to bottle the wine but not affix the labels till later. This makes sense when small lot producers lack the high volume automated lines that would combine these steps in one operation. Another reason for doing this is that if the bottles are going to be stored for some period of time, it prevents the labels from being worn, torn, soiled or otherwise diminished in handling, until which time they're ready to go to market.

Again, the reason this is an anomaly is that the producer is usually anonymous since they're selling their wine through this 'alternate' channel, often at a reduced price. Hence they don't want to diminish the value associated with their brand. According to the Ninety Plus Cellars, 8000 cases were produced of this wine and the producer's release price was $18 and they sell it for $12. We know this producer's label of this wine to be available at various merchants in the range of $20 to $24.

In this case, the cork reveals the producer to be Bodega Navarro Correas. This label is widely available in distribution and is can be found for the same price point as offered by Ninety-Plus cellars. This is likely the result of the producer thinning inventories of excess product, or simply seeking a parallel channel of distribution for their product. Never-the-less, this was an interesting wine that provided pleasurable drinking and good value QPR (Quality Price Ratio). It calls for seeking this out in the regular producer label for comparison as it should be readily available, with 8000 cases being produced.

About the producer

The Navarro Correas family is an historic and prestigious name with a long history of producing quality wines. The Correas family history dates back to 1798, when Sir Juan de Dios Correas planted the first vine seeds in the lands of Mendoza at the foot of the Andes ridge. Sir Juan De Dios also played an active role in the public life of Mendoza, where he served as Municipal Councillor in the year 1814 and as governor in 1824. For more than a century starting in the mid 1800's, the family sold grapes and wines to other producers. Finally, in 1974 Sir Edmundo Navarro Correas, a direct descendant of Juan de Dios Correas, started to release wines under the family name.

Navarro Correas grows grapes in selected micro-climates in Mendoza, located at 2400 feet elevation. They grow various wine varietal grapes in areas such as Tunuyan, Tupungato, Maipu, Ugarteche, Pedriel and Agrelo.  They are are irrigated with the melted snows from the Andes slopes. Their Cabernet Sauvignon comes primarily from the regions of Tunuyan and Tupungato in the Uco Valley.

According to the merchant site, they say, "An aromatic melody of black currant, cherry and cassis rises above a harmonious backdrop of tobacco, mocha and toasty oak.  On the palate, juicy, dark berry fruit cascades across your tongue followed by a trickle of sweet spice and savory plums."

My comments - Deep dark purple color, medium-full bodied with huge floral and fruit aromas and flavors of black berry and blue berry fruits, a layer of sweet caramel, mocha chocolate and tones of oak, tobacco and spice. It opened with a hot layer of alcohol but this burned off over an hour but left a big strong layer of tangy tannin and acid that lingers on the pallet.

This was a perfect complement to a grilled steak with savory mashed potatoes and gravy.

RM 88

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/

Inovasi for Superb Wine & Food Pairings

Inovasi for Superb Wine & Food Pairings

An evening outing landed us at Inovasi Restaurant in tony Lake Bluff. We discovered a vibrant atmosphere in a chic stylish setting with fine-crafted dinner plates and perfect wine-by-the-glass pairings. It was a perfect getaway from a hectic stressful day in the pleasant comfortable setting. A half dozen entree selections include Steak Frites, Shepherds Pie, Baked Haddock, Wild Sockeye Salmon and Crispy Chicken Thigh or Grilled Chicken. There's a larger selection of imaginative small plates and appetizers. A carefully and thoughtfully selected wine list also offers a dozen red and white wines by-the-glass. The result was two great value wine finds that perfectly complemented our meal for a delightful and memorable dining experience.

Inovasi roasted beet salad (half)

We started with the Roasted Beet salad that was delicious with fried onion, goat cheese and a spicy peanut vinaigrette. My Steak Frites was perfectly prepared and nicely presented in a tasty butter au jus reduction. Linda chose the Haddock served on a bed of smoked lentils with a bit of spice.

With my steak I tasted Aviary Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 from the By-The-Glass (B-T-G) list. It was a perfect pairing complementing the beef and the au jus reduction. It was also spectacular with the roasted beet salad with feta cheese and peanut ragu.

Aviary Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

This was a pleasant surprise, exceeding my modest expectations for a B-T-G selection. I am not familiar with this producer or label and upon researching it further found it in distribution throughout the northeast US. Perhaps the setting and an ideal food pairing taints my perspective but I'd say at the $20 retail price point on offer, this is an exceptional QPR (Quality Price Ratio) and I'd say go get a case for every day as well as special occasion drinking. Its a perfect blind tasting candidate!

According to their website, Aviary source grapes from 'nearly a dozen distinct vineyards from Calistoga... to Coombsville'.  Gregory Ahn the Executive Winemaker/GM works with a team of consulting winemakers and a cellar crew to craft the grapes and wines to his specifications.

This is serendipity as it provides a wonderful wine find and dining experience such as this evening. But for lack of terroir or consistent sourcing, one can't infer anything from one label to the next label or even vintage to the next which may be totally different. This the the state of non-estate bottled or broker negotiant labels. Enjoy it while you can .. but caveat emptor with each label. One time you might get premium or ultra premium grapes in a 'private label', the next it may be excess production, or sub-standard product not suitable for the primary flagship label. There's fun in the hunt and great reward when it turns out to be winner at a great price such as tonight. There were 4900 cases of this produced so you should be able to find it.

This was dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, moderately complex but nicely balanced, the muted aromas deceive the burst of Blackberry fruit on the front pallet followed by a layer of black currant, cassis with a hint of dark chocolate and tones of tobacco and tea on the smooth moderate tannin finish.

The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon 88%, Merlot 8% and Petit Syrah 4%.

RM 91

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1702857

http://aviaryvineyards.com/


Barrique Sonoma County Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2012

With Linda's entree we chose this Barrique Sonoma County Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2012. Once again, this was an unknown label or producer. This wine is produced by Brack Mountain Wine Company, made from hand-selected blocks from one of the oldest vineyards on the Sonoma coast. A recent earlier vintage of this label was offered by K&L in the Bay Area, one of our favorite wine merchants for their value, selection and expertise, for under $15. Even at the suggested retail $20 price it represents great value.

This was magenta colored, light bodied, flavors of dusty rose with notes of red fruits accented by a layer of rhubarb, hints of black tea, earth and a touch of tangy white pepper.

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1727500

http://brackmountainwine.com/

Cameron Hughes Lot 500 Napa Cab

Cameron Hughes Lot 500 Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

Ironically, someone asked me just the other day if I knew of Cameron Hughes and I replied I did not. Then, just a few days later I discovered this wine and his brand. Cameron Hughes is another California based negociant, a broker who buys product from producers to remarket under its own private label. The wine may be excess inventory or may not meet the standards set by the producer to market under their own label, hence they'll release it for others to market under a different label so as not to diminish their brand. Naturally such agreements are done under confidentiality. In those circumstances the negociant will hint or tease about the source of such wines.

In this case the tag-line is, "An exceptional Cabernet from one of Napa's first 100-point producers," leaving one to conjecture whom the source might be. Of course the benefit to the marketplace is 'liquidity', no pun intended - the producer can monetize his otherwise un-marketable product (under their own label), although they could also release it in bulk for blending with other wines to be sold as a non-specified wine in another brand or label, or as part of a blend. Most larger producers have multiple labels to classify and sell product at the appropriate applicable price point, but boutique producer's don't have that capability, hence this market. The broker is able to fill a need in the marketplace and can build a meaningful business, and the consumer can get a quality, otherwise expensive label at a fraction of the price, if they're willing to forego the cache of the label brand. Often these releases offer extraordinary value. The challenge is that such releases are one-time opportunities that are short-lived and in limited quantity. And of course caveat emptor, buyer beware.

I wrote more extensively recently in this blog about this practice and another negociant broker, Ninety-Plus Cellars who has come on the scene in a big way with wide distribution of a large number of offers. Our discovery of their recent release of Lot 101 of their Columbia Valley Syrah was an extraordinary find.

Hence I took notice upon reading about this release. Their promotion says, "Lot 500 is our most important Cabernet release of 2013. It's our Centennial Lot that represents what we do best - source amazing wines and sell them at fantastic prices. Lot 500 was born in Oakville from the same vineyard that was one of the first Napa estates to receive a 100-point score from Robert Parker."

SavWay Fine Wine & Spirits in tony Hinsdale (near west suburb of Chicago) were promoting this as Groth product, extrapolating the teaser hint about the 100 point Parker producer. Indeed, the Groth 1985 Reserve Cabernet was the first California wine to be so annointed. Whether this is Groth or not, history shows there have been about forty such wines from but about a dozen and a half producers, a fraternity of the most exclusive producers of the most extraordinary wines. In any case, none of their releases would be found at or even near this pricepoint. Hence, even though this might be a shadow of the flagship or namesake label if released under its own brand, its a quality and distinctive wine at a good value offering a high QPR (quality price ratio). 

I almost don't want to release this before I go back and buy more before it is gone.

The negotiant's notes say "Dark black core with kiss of magenta at the rim. The youthful aromatics open up with dusty loam and blackberry fruit that give way to a very compelling and very pure blueberry essence. Hints of plum and rose petal shimmer in the background. The purity of expression at this stage is very exciting (the wine was bottled in late August 2013, so it’s just now emerging from bottle shock). Silky smooth, delivering highly polished textures across the palate, with bands of black currant and plum swirling about a densely packed mid-palate. Excellent length and depth, but the ultimate expression here is one of silky complexity, beautiful proportion, and balanced elegance. Classy juice."

I found this wine extremely vibrant and expressive, initially hot from alcohol - it needs to be decanted and left for an hour to open and settle to reveal its true nature and potential. Lively forward boysenberry and currant give way to a layer of caramel and hints of vanilla mocha on the long sinewy silky smooth gripping tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1778513

http://chwine.com/

http://www.savwaywines.com/

Private Labels Often Offer Great QPR Value

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 101: Collectors Series Columbia Valley, Washington, Syrah, 2009

Ninety Plus (aka 90+) Cellars operate under the practice known in the 'old wine world' as a 'négociant', the French word for wine merchant/trader acting as a middleman consolidator. They buy excess production from producers and sell it under their own 'private' label. They seek out producers of high quality wines, wines that consumers might hold for special occasions, but strive to price it at 'every day' wine prices, at a fraction of the original price.

The practice is a derivative of the original négociant role dating back in France where négociants, or Wine Merchants/Traders, were the dominant force in the wine trade until the last couple of decades. Historically, owners of vineyards and producers of wine had no direct access to buyers and did not engage in the practice of directly marketing their product. The practice was perpetuated over time due to the arcane French inheritance laws where land and vineyard holdings were often split up amongst the heirs such that offspring owned only parts of a vineyard,  sometimes no more than a single row of grapes. The resulting fragmentation often meant that an owner of only a small portion of a particular high-quality single vineyard where that grower had insufficient wine from a parcel to vinify on its own. Negociants purchased and consolidated wines and engaged in bottling, marketing and distribution.

The négociant might buy already fermented wine in barrels or in bulk containers and may age the wine further, blend in other wines or simply bottle and sell it as is. Often the wine is already bottled or 'in glass' but not yet labeled. The result is sold under the name of the négociant, not the name of the original grape or wine producer. Some French négociants in earlier times had long lived and recognizable labels sourcing wines from the same producer's and region over time so as to develop their recognizable house style.

I recall when I started buying wine early in my collecting 'career', buying wines under the négociant's label. One example I distinctly remember was the popular négociant label, B&G from Barton & Guestier. I remember buying their non-specific 1975 vintage St. Emilion, which referred to the appellation but lacking any specificity of the individual source producer. Today, Barton & Guestier tout themselves as the first French brand name known to millions of consumers worldwide. They have been in the wine business for almost three centuries. They cite that their role and expertise 'guarantees regular quality, vintage after vintage, and reassures consumers in increasingly complicated markets'. They are present in 130 countries on 5 continents.

Over time,  prices for a premier cru associated with the more specific appellation or even specific vineyard, or producer were higher than for wines attributed to a larger area like a village or region. Grower's realized they could make more money selling off the production as the premier cru rather than blending it into a less specific appellation or more generalized label. This works in vibrant markets when there is sufficient demand for the higher priced quality wines. When markets collapse or when production exceeds demand, excess inventory creates opportunity for the negociant to acquire and market the premier product at value prices - often great opportunities of high QPR - Quality to Price ratios.

While it is a stretch to compare Ninety Plus Cellars in the same sense as the historic brand B&G, their role here is no less significant to the consumer. They started the company during the economic downturn in 2009 when demand for wines priced more than $20 a bottle fell and and inventories grew. Rather than discount their wines and erode the value of their brands,  some producers were willing to sell off excess inventory at the distressed market prices on the condition they would be marketed under the 90+ Cellar's label. 90+ Cellars obtains the excess production and is able to sell it at discounted prices on the condition non-disclosure of the their source (s).

Ninety Plus Cellars' goal is to seek out, bottle and deliver fine wine at discounted prices.  Of course their tantalizing name would imply they only seek out or offer wines rated a 90 or higher on the overrated 100 point scale. While that may not always be the case, they often offer good QPR opportunities, none-the-less. Their cover was 'blown' in one case when they obtained bottled but as yet unlabeled product and resold it with their own 'private' label, but when the wine was uncorked, the producer's identity was revealed on their original corks. Aha!

As soon as I tasted this Syrah at the local wine merchant Malloy's store in Naperville, I knew they had a winner, substantiating their claims that they had landed a top rated Syrah and were able to sell it at a deeply discounted price. I probably should have bought as much as I could obtain. Well actually, I did clean them out, and then went back for more when their next shipment arrived the following week. But I did leave some for others. I may regret leaving it behind!

This is a 2009 Columbia Valley, Washington, Syrah that they market under the label Ninety Plus Cellars, Collectors Series, Lot 101. The label specified that '250 cases'. Interestingly it doesn't say produced. How many cases were sold under some other, perhaps well known, perhaps higher priced label?

Dark inky colored, medium to full bodied, this full throttle Syrah reveals layers of blackberry and black currants fruits with tones of sweet vanilla, caramel and spice with hints of black pepper on a lingering smooth silky tannin finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1742790

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/wines/lot-101-collectors-series-syrah

http://www.barton-guestier.com/en/index.php