Desperada Big Red Blend at Paris Bistro Cafe

Desperada Big Red Blend at Paris Bistro Cafe

This complex big bold expressive red blend was featured at the Saturday afternoon tasting at our local wine shop, Vin Chicago in our Chicago suburb of Naperville. We grabbed a bottle and took it BYOB to lunch with L and friends Bill and Beth at Paris Bistro Cafe which we've featured before in this blog.

This complex wine was best with food and was a great when accompanied by the country cheese and meats/pate' plate (shown below left) and our entrees. 

Desparada is the artwork of owner/winemaker Vailia Esh who is married to Russel P. Fromm of Herman Story wines. In her words, she has been a 'wine importer, broker, retailer, cellar rat, harvester, and now vintner'.

This label from her collection of wines, is bold, expressive, and imaginative, sourced from numerous sites on California's Central Coast. She draws inspiration from the finest wines from famous classic wine areas such as Pauillac, Chateauneuf and Montalcino, but she is not inhibited or constrained to confine herself and her wines to those varietals and styles. 

Vailia writes that she 'seeks to discover and explore new horizons, guided not by relying on old maps but more by spirit than style with each wine representing a particular vision, in each vintage, using new knowledge, varietals and vineyards to bring that vision into sharper focus'. 

Her approach may be summed up in the quotes featured on her website from Virginia Wolfe or this adaptation from Henry David Thoreau: “If a woman does not keep pace with her companions, perhaps it is because she hears a different drummer. Let her step to the music which she hears, however measured or far away.” 

Esh's Desperada branding is imaginative and quite distinctive with a collection of wines with unique names with label featuring vintage historic looking tintype or daguerreotypes photographs (left) of Victorian maidens in various random settings clad in nothing but a layer of line scribbling on the image.

Desparada "Sackcloth & Ashes" Central Coast Proprietary Red 2013

 This 2013 "Sackcloth & Ashes" is a complex melange, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (39%), Cabernet Franc (17%),  Petit Verdot (16%), Malbec (14%), Merlot (7%), and Sangiovese (17%). Eight hundred cases were produced.

The fruit is sourced from numerous vineyards from several areas across the region - Chelle Mountain, Coghlan, D'ambino, Luna Matta, Santa Barbara Highlands, Vogelzang and White Hawk. The range is so diverse that the appellation designation is simply and broadly stated as 'California'. 

Winemaker's notes - This is the memory of the abandoned abbey you discovered when in lithe summer nights, when you were young and alone. Crushed violet, ripped jeans, quarter sawn spruce, blueberry cake, warmed sage, buckwheat honey, anisette, chocolate brownie batter, ancient incense, cherry-skin cigar, palo santo smudge and sassafras bark.

This is the most tasty, smoothest and most complex wine I recall ever tasting from the Paso Robles Central Coast region.  With such a broad blend of so many diverse varietals this might have come across as disjointed or even schizophrenic but it was nicely balanced and very approachable even at this young age. This is remarkable too given the 15.2 alcohol content.  I look forward to obtaining more, and to trying more labels from this producer. 

Dark garnet purple colored, full bodied, complex, rich bright, expressive but smooth and nicely polished with ripe blue berry fruits accented by a layer of sweet soft mocha, hints of vanilla, violet and cinnamon spice with sweet oak on the moderate finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2035553

http://www.desparada.com/

http://www.parisbistronaperville.com

Del Dotto Gio Tuscan Reserve - Spring Valley Uriah Highlight Angeli's Italian Dinner

Del Dotto Gio Tuscan Reserve - Spring Valley Uriah Highlight Angeli's Italian Dinner

For a Saturday evening dinner outing with Gary and Laurie M. at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria, we took two mature vintage reds BYOB from the cellar - 1997 Del Dotto Giovanni's Tuscan Reserve and 2003 Spring Valley Vineyard Uriah red wine. As usual the carefully prepared with fresh ingredients and homemade pasta was great featuring seasonal favorites Pasta and Peas with Italian Sausage in Vodka Cream Sauce, Clam Chowder and Angelis Special Salad. Angelis has raised their  corkage fee to $20 which we feel is too high and will detract from and reduce the frequency of the dining experience.

Del Dotto Napa Valley Giovanni's Tuscan Reserve 1997

We don't collect Italian wines and they represent perhaps a mere 1% of our cellar. This Sangiovese based blend is the closest we come to an Italian accompaniment so it is a lead wine we take to Italian dinners. I have written often in this bog about Del Dotto pioneering efforts with Sangiovese in Napa Valley and this wine.

These is the second to last bottle from a case of this vintage. Initially, upon opening this was consistent with earlier tasting notes ... medium bodied - ruby color starting to take on a slightly brownish rust color at the rim; aromatics of black berry and woody cedar and a slight earthy funkiness showing its age, eventually giving way to slightly tart black cherry fruit with tones of leather, anise and spice turning to moderate silky tannins on a pleasant lingering finish of soft oak. We saved a third of the bottle and the next evening the tangy dark fruits were accented by cedar and floral tones with a smokey oak tannin on the finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=148343

 

Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Valley Uriah Red Wine 2003

This is the oldest of ten vintages we hold of this wine and is the last bottle from this year. This is a Merlot based Bordeaux blend. At fourteen years its likely at the apex of its tasting window/curve.

Dark garnet colored, medium to full bodied, bright vibrant flavors of black berry, cherry and currants with tones of tea and cigar box turning to mild tannins and  lively acidity on the long, silky, finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=148343

Kilikanoon Testament Barossa Shiraz 2004

Kilikanoon Testament Shiraz 2004

On a cold blustery snowy Chicago winter evening, we ventured out to Angelis, our local neighborhood Trattoria for a hearty wine and dine meal. We took this Kilikanoon Testament Shiraz, BYOB which turned out to be a perfect complement to both our entree selections - Linda's Butternut Squash Gnochi (think brown sugar - to which she has them add spinach), and my Pasta and Peas with Italian Sausage in Vodka Cream Sauce - a winter favorite (see below).

For a starter, we had Angeli's extraordinary clam chowder which is the best anywhere with its thick, chewy smoky bacon undertones.

Kilikanoon Testament Barossa Valley Shiraz 2004

Perhaps it was the warm ambiance and the food pairing, or the dozen years of age added to this wine, but tonight, while consistent with earlier tasting notes, it was even more delicious and tasty than I remember. This typifies everything we love in a hearty Shiraz with its rich, concentrated, complex succulent fruit flavors.

Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, the blackberry, blueberry and black cherry fruits are accented by a layer of creosote expresso with tones of cigar box and cedar with hints of mocha, black pepper and anise on the lingering chewy tannin finish.

Upon opening and for the first hour, the non-fruit tones detract a bit from the polish and finesse of the wine in my opinion hence it is perhaps best consumed with hearty food, dark chocolate or full cheese. The next day this was balanced, nicely polished and harmonious.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=292243 


http://www.kilikanoon.com.au/

Angeli's Pasta and Peas
with Italian Sausage in Vodka Cream Sauce

Angeli's decadent Butternut Squash Gnochi
(with some spinach added)

Surh Luchtel Mendocino County Cabernet and Columbia Valley Syrah

Surh Luchtel Mendocino County Cabernet and Columbia Valley Syrah

For a casual dinner at Angeli's our local neighborhood trattoria, we took two bottles BYOB from the cellar, an incredibly full flavored tasty recent release Syrah and an aged vintage Cabernet from Mendocino County California. 


Surh Luchtel Mendocino County Eaglepoint Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

I picked this up at auction after a good experience with another vintage from this producer from 2004. The earlier tasting was a  Surh-Luchtel Napa Valley wine while this one is from Mendocino County. These labels are the result of collaboration between two long time friends Don Suhr and Gary Luchtel who produce about 3000 cases per year.

Since these releases are small batches of wine crafted from purchased fruit, rather than fruit sourced from the producer's own estate or property, its not realistic to necessarily expect continuous years of the same wine from the same vineyards or terrior as it is known. So purchasing product based on earlier experience may not be an indicator of what to expect, other than perhaps similar care and attention to detail.

So it shouldn't be a surprise that this wine had no resemblance to the earlier experience, one being from Napa and the other from Mendocino County, two very different areas with very different terroir.

The 1997 Mendocindo Eaglepoint Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon was garnet colored, medium bodied with full flavors of plum and black cherry with a layer of tobacco leaf and tea on a leathery earthy finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=315084

The other wine we took is replay of a recent release that we've been enjoying that we wanted to share with friends Mark and Gayle who share our preference for bold full flavored fruit filled wines.

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 101: Collectors Series Columbia Valley, Washington, Syrah, 2009

I discovered and first reviewed this wine last month in my blogpost. I love this style as my preferred profile of a Syrah, thick, chewy with sweet forward fruits. Dark inky colored, medium to full bodied, this full throttled Syrah reveals layers of blackberry and black currants fruits with tones of sweet vanilla, caramel and spice with hints of black pepper on a lingering smooth silky tannin finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1742790

Clos Fortet Bordeaux for Paris Bistro French Cuisine Dinner

Clos Fortet Bordeaux for Paris Bistro French Cuisine Dinner

After a tumultuous day, we planned to dine out and to check out Paris Bistro in south Naperville. We went to see and support our friend Rosa who works there as a server. When we discovered it allowed BYOB,  we selected this eight year old Bordeaux from the cellar to take to accompany our French cuisine dinner. While they offer half priced bottles of wine on Monday nights, the selection is very limited and that offer does not apply to few the premium labels on the wine list, so we stuck with our BYOB selection.

Paris Bistro is part wine bar, part Boulangerie Patisserie, it promotes itself as a Rotisserie and Creperie. Its open for breakfast and lunch as well as dinner. While this is true, it doesn't do justice to its serious dinner entree beef and seafood offerings. The menu is simple and limited with a seafood and beef entree in addition to its crepe and rotisserie features. The menu is the handiwork of a local artisan chef who is eastern European but develops and serves authentic French cuisine. They offer a simple limited wine list of French labels to compliment each menu selection either by the bottle of by the glass. The selection included a couple of Crus Bourgeois du Médoc equivalent Bordeaux, a Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and a varied selection of other reds and whites - mostly modest wines at frugal prices.

I chose the day's special, a beef shank on the bone served in onions, carrots and mushrooms in a red wine reduction that was delicious, with truffle infused whipped potatoes (shown left). Linda chose the other day's special selection, shrimp and sea scallops served on a bed of polenta. Both were moderate portions served in a stylish thoughtfully prepared presentation, and were tasteful. While prices for most of the menu selections offered good value, our daily special selections were priced at 'upscale' suburban or even 'city' prices (thirty+ dollars).

Prior to dinner, we had a featured plate of cheese, pate and olives in olive oil ($14), served with toast points. Three various cheese, creamy, soft and moderate, were served in this delightful offering which by itself would be a great small plate accompaniment to a couple glasses of wine. It was tempting to not try their by-the-glass selections with the plate but we had our BYOB Bordeaux which turned out to be a perfect complement to this plate as well as our entrees.

After dinner we enjoyed superb creme brulee and chocolate mousse desserts.

Clos Fortet 1er Grand Cru Classe St Emilion Bordeaux 2004

The Clos Fourtet château sits right outside the gates of the medieval city of Saint-Emilion and is one of the oldest, most renowned and frequently visited estates in the area. It is within walking distance from the luxury hotel and restaurant Hostellerie de Plaisance. The property has about fifty acres of vineyards planted with Merlot (72%), Cabernet Franc (22%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (6%).

Clos Fourtet has had several owners over the years and underwent a mini-renaissance under the stewardship of the Lurtons family who bought the property in 1949. The winemaker Pierre Lurton established the property`s reputation as one of the finest on the St. Martin plateau. He left to become winemaker at the esteemed Cheval Blanc and was replaced by Daniel Alard. In 2001, Clos Fourtet was bought by Paris businessman Phillipe Cuvelier who continued to modernize and develop the property. 

Clos Fourtet has had an exceptional run of terrific vintage releases in recent years. Robert Parker, the legendary acclaimed critic loves this wine and has praised their efforts in recent releases. Parker cited their 2003 a breakthrough vintage for this estate and their best ever. He said this 2004 was a worthy successor to the 'brilliant' 2003, however not as powerful. He gave their 2005 vintage a classic 98 points rating, and then he awarded the 2009 a perfect 100, saying 'it was one of the greatest young Bordeaux (he) had ever tasted'.

Tonight this wine was dark purple colored, medium to full bodied. Upon opening it burst with aromas of berry fruits. It was vibrant and bright with a symphony of youthful exuberant black cherry, black berry and blue raspberry fruits, accented by tones of  spice, creme de cassis and licorice, with hints of smoke and mocha, turning to a soft spicy lingering moderately tannin finish.

RM 92 points. RP 91-93 points.

I wish I had more than my few bottles of this to taste over the next decade or so. 

http://www.closfourtet.com/

http://www.parisbistronaperville.com/

Opus One Pride Highlight Anniversary Dinner

Opus One Pride Highlight Anniversary Dinner

To celebrate our anniversary, we dined at Sullivan's Naperville with dear friends Beth and Bill C. For the occasion I pulled from the cellar a wine befitting the occasion, OPUS One. I chose a '96 vintage following our horizontal tasting from that vintage the other night.  Also, that was the vintage we tasted on our first visit to OPUS during our Napa Wine Experience 1998. To round out our dinner feast we selected from the wine list Pride Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2010. Prior to dinner Bill and Beth treated us to Tattinger Champagne.

The wines were all spectacular and paired perfectly with the food. Naturally we all dined on Sullivan's aged prime steaks - Bill the mushroom stuffed filet with Bordelaise sauce, Beth had the filet, Linda, the filet with the peppercorn cream sauce and I had the filet, artfully prepared 'Pittsburgh' style with lobster tail surf and turf. The spinach and dinner salads were perfect. The chocolate and berry deserts were spectacular.

We added cheddar au-gratin potatoes and creamed spinach side dishes.  Aaron provided superb service - cordial, attentive, informative and gracious in decanting and appropriately handling of the wines. The finale to the gala evening was a cellar tour (pictures coming).

OPUS ONE 1996

The joint venture of the two masters of these top wine producing regions, Baron Phillip Rothschild of Mouton Rothschild from Bordeaux and Robert Mondavi from Napa Valley. I admit I've often considered OPUS as over-hyped, over priced and over played, the choice of image conscious drinkers with more money than taste. Tonight, OPUS lived up to all the hype and exceeded all expectations. In fairness, I think many of our OPUS encounters that left something to be desired were due to drinking it too early, too young. Tonight, the 1996 was at its prime and showed off the best of what OPUS can be.

The Opus was dark inky purple colored, medium to full bodied. It opened with a huge nose, reminiscent of a classic Margaux from the mid-eighties. Elegant, complex, smooth and polished it was a symphony of black fruit flavors accented by harmonious tones of leather, tobacco, lead pencil and soft tones of cassis and a hint of mocha. Decanted, over the course of the evening the fruit became slightly muted giving way to classic left bank Bordeaux earthy leather, but never losing its harmonious balance. The fragrant finish continued to linger for minutes.  

RM 94 points. Had the fruit held, I would have given this a 95.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=305

http://www.opusonewinery.com/

Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

We visited Pride Mountain Vineyards and Winery high atop Spring Mountain of the Mayacamas Range overlooking Napa Valley to the east, and Sonoma Valley to the west during our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 1999 and again in 2003. We've enjoyed Pride since and often 'gift' Pride to friends on special occasions. Being huge fans of rich concentrated extracted mountain fruit, we hold Pride Cabernet going back to the mid-nineties. We love the Spring Mountain expression of terroir which I believe is as complex and flavorful as the other popular mountain appellations.

So it was a tall order to select a wine that would complement Sullivan steaks during a special occasion dinner up against the legendary Opus One. We weren't disappointed as the 2010 Pride stood tall holding its own against such formidable expectations. All of use were pleasantly surprised by how well the Pride showed, especially given its youth.

We decanted the Pride before serving. It was bright garnet colored and was full bodied with complex, nicely balanced bright vibrant forward expressive ripe black raspberry fruits with a layer of sweet mocha, tones of tea, tobacco and cassis with hints of vanilla and soft oak with firm gripping but manageable tannins. Delicious already, this will no doubt improve with further aging for a decade or more. I am anxious to open and compare some of our vintage bottles.

Fruit is sourced from 53% Napa/ 47% Sonoma. The blend is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and 7% Petit Verdot.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1480956

http://www.pridewines.com/

Chateau Brane-Cantenac Margaux Bordeaux 2004

After dinner we retreated to the C's for dark chocolate mud cake and fresh berries and Bill opened a 2004 Brane Cantenac Margaux.

Bill's posted his tasting notes - "Deep maroon color. Some light floral notes on the nose. Leather, earthy and full bodied on the palate. Integrated tannins are ready to drink now."

My notes - Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, subtle earthy, leathery black cherry fruits with a touch of anise, slight floral and spice on a lingering moderate tannin finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=108850

Cellarcrashers ...  The picturesque Sullivan's Naperville working/showcase wine cellar ...

Sullivan's showcase working cellar.

Sullivan's working cellar interior.

Cellarcrashers, Bill and Rick

Large format Imperials - Halo, Opus ... . Party!

 

Cellarcrashers ... anniversary couple - Linda, Rick ...

Tie in the wine again, I hate it when that happens!

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

Del Dotto Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

Much has been written here in this blog about our enjoyment of and support for Del Dotto Vineyards and their selection of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons. Indeed, we've been fans and collectors since their inaugural release in 1993 and hold a vertical collection dating back that far. We continue to be rewarded for our patience in holding these wines and enjoying their longevity. They're safely in their prime drinking window and promise several more years of fine drinking to come. Tonight was typical as we chose their 1999 vintage for a special dinner welcoming a new colleague with our leadership at Angelis' Italian, our favorite local Italian bistro in Naperville.

Consistent with earlier tasting notes - the 1999 Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is dark ruby colored, full bodied, complex but nicely balanced with intense dark cherry, black currant and blackberry fruits, a spicy tangy oak layer on a lingering finish of tight structured tannins. This was a perfect complement to Angelis' pasta with peas and ground Italian sausage in a vodka cream sauce. 

RM 92 points. 

Previous tasting journal entries for this wine -  Dec 25, 2003, April 2, 2003, Dec 25, 2002, Aug 24, 2002, May 30, 2008,  October 19, 2012  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=616988

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/ 

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997


Much has been written here in this blog about our enjoyment of and support for Robert Craig Vineyards and his family of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons. Indeed, we've been fans and collectors since his inaugural release in 1993 and still hold a vertical collection dating back that far. We continue to be rewarded for our patience in holding these wines and enjoying their longevity. They're safely in their prime drinking window and promise several more years of fine drinking to come. Tonight was typical as we chose their 1997 vintage for a special dinner welcoming a new colleague and trying out a new local eatery, Cuisine de Saigon - an Asian French fusion restaurant in Naperville. They offer a nice selection of entrees featuring all fresh and authentic preparations at great prices for fantastic value and a economical BYOB policy. This wine was a perfect complement to their soy rib-eye steak entree.

My Winesite features six tasting notes of previous bottles of this wine from the case we bought at the winery in Napa Valley a dozen years ago. This bottle continues to be expressive, still revealing itself and its full potential with lingering fruit and staying power. - rich, medium full bodied, dark garnet colored - fruit filled with black currant, black berry, raspberry, cassis and earthy leather reminiscent of a left bank Bordeaux with silky tannins on the finish. (82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc).

The 1997 vintage was praised at the time while the panned follow-on 1998 vintage has been more enjoyable over the last several years. Finally the '97 is awakening and revealing itself, as we're getting down to the last few bottles of a case we purchased long ago. It will be fun to see how this continues to evolve, and how long it lasts in its glory.


RM 92 points.




This is Robert Craig's Cabernet Saivignon Blend from his three mountains (Mt Veeder, Howell Mountain and Spring Mountain) and a (Napa) Valley collection. Known for its good value and early drinking ability, this fifteen year old is holding up well.
 
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=29715

From our Robert Craig vertical collection that is highlighted regularly in this blog. Click on the Robert Craig link for more features.



Previous tasting journal entries for this wine are: July 26, 2000, June 23, 2000, April 28, 2007 , December 25, 2007, April 1, 2009, February 21, 2012, August 29, 2012.

http://www.robertcraigwine.com/