Pour Boys Cityscape Fall Classic Wine Dinner

Pour Boys Cityscape Fall Classic Wine Dinner

The fall gathering of the Pour Boys was hosted by Lyle and Terry on their West Loop cityscape deck on a picture perfect early autumn evening.

Big Reds were the order of day to compliment the dinner of ceasar salad, mushroom soup, grilled steaks, puffed potatoes, stripped zuchini, and cheese veggie ravioli.

The Antipasta course (shown below) featured a plate of mixed proscuittos, deviled eggs, assortment of olives and a selection of artisan cheeses, highlighted by Lyle's grilled sea scallops.

Red wine flight

The main course red wine flight (shown left) featured Sangiovese, Bordeaux blends, several Syrahs, a couple Zins and a vintage port.

John served a champagne and white wine flight with the starters of Salon and Veuve Cliquot, and a Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru.

There is always room for bubbly, and the whites were spectacular with the scallops, antipasta and cheese selection.

The cheeses included aged cheddars from Fair Oak Farms - 5 and 6 year olds and a Wisconsin;  a pair of aged Goudas from Wisconsin and a Dutch, Bellavitano and some others.

Cheese selection

Anti-Pasta

The white flight -

Salon Blanc de Blanc Brut Champagne 2004

At a dozen years of age, this premium vintage label showed its class - straw colored, medium bodied, elegant, rich, crisp and clean, full bright flavors accented by a layer of zesty yeast, vibrant flavors of pear, apple, nut and hint of zesty citrus.

I wish my palate for Champagne was more discriminating to appreciate the nuances of this elegant polished, nicely balanced label.

RM 93 points 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2334797

 

Veuve Cliquot NV Champagne

Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru en Clos 2009

As a follow on to our recent Vivere wine producer dinner, Ernie brought a Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino and Fluris, which he procured from the Italian Village wine cellar when the distributor/retailer couldn't fulfill our order for a shared case of the dessert wine. Following the pairing of this with the orange cake at the dinner, this was a priority to compliment Terry's classic orange cake dessert.

The Brunello Sangiovese was an ideal compliment to Terry's mushroom and celery root soup. She and Lyle had this on their recent river cruise on the Danube River to Budapest and Terry coerced the chef to give her the recipe. 







Lyle grilling the scallops.
















The Red Flight -

 

 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Sangiovese 2010

100% Estate grown Sangiovese.

Deep intense dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, subdued black cherry fruits, tones of leather, tobacco, anise and hints of floral, spice and vanilla.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1770395




Eric and Cathy brought Flower Merlot from Yates Family Vineyards which they discovered and obtained at our our winery visit during our Mt Veeder Appellation wine experience 2011. This was a great transition wine from the white to red flight with its soft approachable easy sipping bright acidity and vibrant fruits, before moving to the Big Reds.


Yates Family Vineyards Flower Merlot 2005

While predominantly Merlot, this includes in the blend some Cabernet Sauvignon (4%) and Cabernet Franc (2%).

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant black berry, black raspberry and black cherry fruits, lively acidity, dark spices on a long moderate tannin finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1129204

http://www.yatesfamilyvineyard.com/



For the dinner course, we started with Bill's Chateau  Lascombs to align with the grilled strip steaks.

Château Lascombes Margaux Bordeaux 2000

Contrary to my earlier tasting experience with this wine, tonight this was surprisingly un-Bordeaux like ... while this was lacking the floral and earthy notes I associate with Margaux, it showed much brighter and more forward, vibrant tangy fruits, more like a Napa Cab, than a left bank claret.

Dark deep ruby colored, medium-bodied, bright forward blackberry, black currant, and black cherry fruits with a layer of tangy spice and tones of soft oak on the moderate tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6403


Continuing in the dinner course, I brought another 2000 vintage label as part of a mini vertical of Rosemount Balmoral Syrah, 1999-2000.

Rosemount Estate Balmoral McLaren Vale Syrah 1999-2000

We have about a half dozen contiguous vintages of this label. I think this '99 label is a bit bigger and more forward and fruit filled than the others which have more predominant non-fruit tones. 

This vineyard is one of the few in Australia with vines dating back a hundred years. The concentrated fruit is akin to the Chateau Tanunda with its legendary 100 year old vines. The story of  we Pour Boys discovering and then capturing the US allocation of this wine is written often in these pages. 

Dark inky purple garnet colored, medium-full bodied, forward  currant, plum, blackberry fruits turning to blueberry on the mid-palate, accented by a layer of anise, raisin and fig with hints of clove and spice.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3000 

2000 Vintage - 

Consistent with previously reported tasting notes from 2010 and 2012. 

Dark inky purple/garnet colored, medium-full bodied. Aromatic, leather, slightly earthy aroma that gives way to complex flavorful blue fruit and ripe black raspberry fruits that turn to raisin, black cherry, cassis, tar, and tobacco turning to an aftertaste of smoke, currant and a hint of plum. Over the course of the evening, the wine seemed to age as the berry fruits gave way to the more fig raisin aged feel while the deep aromatics lingered.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=14749

The Syrah flight continued with John's classic Cayuse Shiraz from Washington State.

Cayuse Vineyards Cailloux Vineyard Walla Walla Valley Syrah 2012

John brought the 2007 vintage of this big hitter to our Cityscape wine of the deck dinner in 2013 when I wrote on this label and producer more extensively.

Like that earlier event, I saved this wine for the end of the meal to pivot to the dessert course as it is suited more for the dark chocolate desserts and more than even the grilled beef steaks. And, like before, it provided a perfect set up to the Vintage Port. Thanks again, John for offering up this classic Washington State Syrah, a real treat.

Not for the feint of heart ... no wimps here ... Dark inky garnet colored, full bodied, huge powerful concentrated, complex thick chewy black berry and black raspberry, bramble, bacon fat, game, tones of dark mocha and tobacco with hints of tar, black pepper and anise turning to vanilla on the tongue coating finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1683780

http://www.cayusevineyards.com

Orange cake with berries and whipped cream

 

Finally, the dessert course featuring Terry's orange cake with mixed berries and fresh whipped cream, and a selection of dark chocolates and dark chocolate covered berries, accompanied by Ernie's Floris and Lyle's Croft Port.

Castello Banfi Florus Late Harvest Moscadello 2011

Golden colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant bouquet and flavors of sweet apricot, honeysuckle, tones of raisins, almonds and honey on full lingering unctuous finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1840229




Croft Vintage Port 1994

From Lyle's collection of vintage ports, the 1994 vintage was a classic vintage, even for vintage declared Ports, as two were selected as Co-Wines of the Year for that vintage. 

Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied, moderately sweet with an essence of cognac, gripping tannins are pervasive with thick tongue coating richness, yet the power is refined and polished rendering this big wine approachable for smooth sipping. One of the top performances for this label.

RM 92 points.  


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=8960

http://www.croftport.com/en/




The Pour Boys Story-

UGC Bordeaux 2013 Release Tour Chicago 2016

Pour Boys Serve Grands Crus Classes of St Emilion 2015 Chicago Tasting

Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux

Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux BYOB at Indigo Springfield


For a team dinner in Springfield we dined at Indigo Restaurant, what I believe is perhaps the best dining in the area.  Knowing I was probably going to order a steak and longing for an appropriate Bordeaux wine, I took BYOB this recent vintage Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe. If I tasted this at the UGCB vintage release tastings I didn't remember so I was eager to try it.

I ordered the New York strip steak Pittsburg style and they delivered as specified. The wine was a perfect complement to the dinner. Considering our group of nine, service was attentive, professional, timely and prompt without being obtrusive or doting. Dinner was up to fine dining standards in all respects.

Château Prieuré-Lichine Margaux Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux 2012

This was a pleasant approachable drinking Bordeaux from a vintage that has been panned in the ratings and the press. Garnet colored, medium bodied, very Margaux like in the dark and red berry fruit aromas accented by bright floral.

Nicely structured and balanced with expressive black cherry and plum fruits with bright lively acidity with hints of cedar and subtle cassis graphite turning to soft moderate tannins on the finish. This represents decent value for near term drinking or aging.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1601104

Indigo - http://www.indigocuisine.com/

Sizzling steak and Bordeaux on the Deck

Sizzling steak and Bordeaux on the Deck

For a delightful summer evening dinner on the deck under the bright Blue Moon at friends Beth and Bill's, Bill and I paired a duo of vintage Bordeaux to highlight the grilled steak au poivre dinner with sliced buttered potatoes and green beans with onions.

I had just dropped off a selection of wine at Winebid.com as part of a cellar thinning exercise, including an OWC (original wood case) of Chateau Clerc Milon '95. I pulled two bottles from the case to retain so I had one ready at hand to take as I headed directly over for dinner.

To pair with the Clerc Milon, Bill pulled from the cellar a Chateau Giscours Margaux 1998. This provided not only a perfect pairing with the grilled beef steak, but an interesting contrast in styles reflecting their respective terroir of Pauillac vs Margaux.

Chateau Clerc Milon Pauillac 1995

This second wine of legendary first growth Chateau Mouton Rothschild can rival its regal premier label in top vintages. Showing classic Pauillac terroir character and profile, this may be at its prime at twenty years of age.  Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, complex but nicely balanced slightly subdued black berry and black raspberry fruits accented by tones of black tea, tobacco and truffles with hints of pencil shavings and cassis on a lingering firm, gripping but smooth tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4864








Chateau Giscours Margaux Grand Cru Classe 1998

We enjoyed meeting the producer and tasting Giscours as one of the standouts of recent UGC vintage release tour tastings here in Chicago. This was an interesting study in Bordeaux terroir, a fun comparison against the Pauillac.  Dark ruby colored, medium full bodied, this showed classic Margaux floral violet aromas and flavors punctuating the bright expressive black raspberry and plum tones, showing complex but polished and balanced weight and body, accented by hints of earth and leather, turning to a lingering tongue coating powder dry soft silky tannin layer that filled the mouth with a berry-floral tone that lingered for minutes on the finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=30802

 

Arns, Rusbissow, Cantenac Brown Highlight Flemings Prime Beefsteak Dinner

Arns, Rusbissow, Cantenac Brown Highlight Flemings Prime Beefsteak Dinner

A gathering of the original 'pour boys'. Saturday night dinner in bustling Chicago following afternoon at the theatre for the ladies, was the setting for tasting this trio of fine wines. The ladies took in a musical at Lyric Opera and then we gathered at Lyle and Terry's at their nearby west loop pied-a-tere turned permanent residence for a pre-dinner tasting. Bill and Beth brought an Arn's Napa Valley Cabernet which we enjoyed with cheese, olives, proscuitto and crackers. We then proceeded to Flemings Prime Steakhouse Chicago for dinner.

To celebrate Bill and Beth's son Matt's recent engagement announcement to Molly, I took a birthyear Bordeaux befitting the occasion - Cantenac Brown Margaux 1989. We ordered from the winelist a Rubissow Mt Veeder Merlot to round out the pairing.

Arns Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

Bill brought this bottle which he acquired at the winery/estate during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2013 - Arns Estate (Blog post at http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/). As I write in that visit blogpost report, Arns Estate Vineyards and Winery is a small artisan boutique producer of handcrafted Arns Estate Grown Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

The estate consists of 160 acres of which just eleven are planted in vineyards situated on the lower tier of Howell Mountain on the eastern slope above the town of St. Helena.

Arns' wines bear a Napa Valley designation since the Howell Mountain appellation demarcation point is 1200 feet elevation, determined by the level the fog rises up the hill. Never-the-less, the Howell Mountain terroir is clearly evident in Arns Cabernet.

John Arns, Rick, Linda, Bill

We love this wine which I first discovered at Andy Bassin's MacArthur Wine Shop in WDC where I acquired this label over the years dating back to the 1996 vintage.

Bill's note from this CT - "Medium garnet color. A bit of a musty nose on opening but this blew off in 5 or 10 minutes. After 30 minutes, this opened to reveal bright red fruit, mocha and a bit of sweetness that I would typically associate with Mt Veeder. However this winery located on Howell Mtn below the fog line produces something much more layered and complex. A delicious bottle drinking very well right now."

WCC - 90 points.

I give it a 92, I love this ripe berry sweetness with tones of sweet mocha. This has an amazingly similar profile to the Merlot below with its elegant approachable Merlot like smooth softness. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1014194

http://arnswinery.com/

Rubissow Napa Valley Mount Veeder Merlot 2004

A rare find from the Fleming's winelist, since only 130 cases were produced of this wine. We discovered and acquired this wine during a winery/estate visit during our Napa Wine Experience Mt Veeder excursion in 2011 - Rubissow Mt Veeder Napa Valley Vineyards. 

The artisan boutique producer estate of 45 acres sits high atop the south end of Mt Veeder with views of San Pablo Bay in the distance. Eighteen acres are planted in Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and some Syrah. 

Today the winery is operated by second generation, Peter Rubissow who has taken over the main operations duties from his father, founder and patriarch George Rubissow.

This is another favorite Napa Valley Bordeaux varietal that we've enjoyed visiting at the estate. We acquired later vintages of this wine during the visit and ordered more of this varietal and joined their wine club, but we have never heard anything more or received and further wines from the producer. Tasting this earlier vintage raises the anticipation of opening selections from our cellar, and raises the disappointment of not obtaining more (despite having placed hard orders.) 

Rick and Linda with George Rubissow

This was amazingly similar to the Arns Cabernet that we tasted earlier with its full body, bright vibrant sweet raspberry fruits and predominant layer of mocha accent. Even more amazing since the two wines come from opposite corners of Napa Valley, and one is a Merlot and the other a Cabernet Sauvignon! 

Never-the-less, this Estate Merlot could pass for a Cabernet in a blind tasting, raspberry fruits, smooth, polished, elegant, sweet, tones of mocha, sweet spicy oak, hints of dusty rose floral, and black tea on a smooth firm but silky smooth tannin finish. This must be at its prime right now - I can't imagine it being better in its youth or with more age. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=560552

http://www.rubissowwines.com/

Château Cantenac Brown Grand Cru Classe Margaux 1989

As I wrote above, Bill and Beth just announced the engagement of their son Matt to Molly, so I brought this birth year 1989 vintage Bordeaux which I have been holding for such an occasion, to highlight our dinner. 

Opened and decanted about an hour before we turned to this as part of the main course with our entrees. It needed this time to 'settle' and burn off an earthy leather essence and reveal its true fruit and floral character. 

The cork was moist and saturated but was intact and in good condition. Dark garnet color, classic nose of Margaux perfume with floral, hints of leather, earth and cassis. Medium bodied, nicely balanced concentrated black berry and black cherry fruits accented by earth, leather, tobacco leaf and hints of tea, turning to a smooth polished moderate tannin finish. This is likely at its apex or the end of its optimal drinking window and probably will start to diminish from here forward, so it was suitably aged and time to drink. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=159186

.

 'Pour boys', Lyle, Bill, and Rick with UCG Oliver Bernard
and Frank Kronthal at the UGC Tasting Chicago 2014

La Sirène de Giscours

La Sirène de Giscours Margaux 2005

L prepared a tantalizing English Pub stew with a beef bourguignon and carrots in breading, which begged for a dark earthy complex Bordeaux. Picked this up and pulled from the cellar following the Giscours off-label last week as a point of comparison.

This lacked the sophistication, complexity and balance of a Grand Cru, but a top year such as 2005 provides the opportunity to dip into the lesser labels for more affordable (QPR - quality price ratio) every day enjoyable drinking. At $35, this is not necessarily an every day wine, (for most of us), and isn't necessarily a great buy at that price-point. I suspect it is less so in lesser vintages.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, huge floral front, firm tightly bound black fruits give way to leathery creosote layer. Initially flabby and lacking balance or polish, after an hour a firm tannic backbone set in and held together the modest black cherry fruit and black olive on a lingering tangy spicy oak finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=410171 

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Chicago 2015

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGC) 2012 Vintage Release Tasting Chicago 

For Bordeaux lovers, one of the premier wine events of the year is the annual North American vintage release tour of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB).  The UGC is an association of 133 grands crus producers from heralded Gironde estates. Shown below left is the colorful Bernard Olivier, Proprietor of Domaine Chevallier and President of the UGCB, with son Hugo.

Wine enthusiasts will know that Grand Cru refers to the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855, where Grand Cru (French for 'great growth') is the classification that designates a vineyard (or producer) as reputable, known for its consistency in producing favorable wines. Grand Cru is the second highest rating of five levels, second only to Premier cru or Premier cru classé, the highest level of the five within the "Grand cru classé" designation for red wines, and the second-highest of three in the Sauternes appellation, where the highest is Premier Cru Supérieur (superior first growth). These highest rated wines are often known as or referred to as the classic 'First Growths', of which there are only six. 

The First Growths generally cost an order of magnitude more than the Grand Crus, beyond the budget of most, or certainly, only obtainable as once a year wines, or even once in a lifetime, special occasion wines. In top vintages, First Growths often cost more than a $1000 per bottle. 

Often the Grand Crus wines approach the quality and rating of the higher classified and much more expensive First Growth wines, and are certainly indistinguishable, except to the most discriminating. Hence, Grand Crus are the most popular and most widely collected wines for the masses of Bordeaux wine enthusiasts.  

The annual UGCB vintage release tour event is open to the trade - restauranteurs, merchants, distributors, importers and the press during the day, and then it is open to the public in the evening through special arrangements with Binny's Beverage Depot, the Chicagoland wine super merchant with over thirty stores. Other featured merchants host the event in other cities.
 

Ryan and Rick - Father Son Tasting Team

This outstanding event offers a rare opportunity to meet the producers and many of the actual winemakers and the opportunity to taste their latest Bordeaux release. About 100 wines are presented for tasting and offered for pre-sale 'en premiere' or as wine futures to the public prior to actual availability of the wines in distribution. This provides a preview of the release and the opportunity to lock in an allocation of the wine at the pre-release price. For a collector seeking that release, it typically affords the best means to obtaining wines at early market price. 

Chateau Pichon Baron -
one of the standouts

The event provides enthusiasts and collectors the chance to meet and speak with the winery representative who offers unique insights and perspectives on the current vintage release, the recent harvest projecting next year's vintage release, as well as previous earlier vintages releases of the label. 

We hold many cases of Bordeaux wines dating back to the early eighties as well as many large format bottles of key vintages that we're holding for special occasions. The producers are exposed to these wines regularly and are a library of knowledge of the state of each release and how it is aging and drinking, even in the various size format bottles. They have vast knowledge and insights and can offer great perspectives on the historic vintages as well as the nuances of the current and upcoming releases.

As with recent years, the tour visited New York, Chicago and San Francisco. The Chicago event was held in the classic famous Gold Coast Ballroom (shown left) of the chic Drake Hotel at the the corner where the Magnificent Mile North Michigan Avenue meets Lake Shore Drive. 

Like last year, when snowstorms in New York delayed the arrival of many producers in Chicago, a winter blizzard across the eastern third of the US threatened to disrupt the event, but a group of flight delayed courageous producers arrived from New York an hour before opening.

In fairness, naturally, I did not taste every wine, but of those tasted, here are the highlights of this year's event. I focused on wines that I know and collect as a basis of comparison to calibrate the vintage. I then ventured to try some new wines, especially wines that are from producers I already know, and then I tried some new discoveries. 

Cellar Angels Founders Martin and Denise Smith Cody
with Dean Noonan of SipsonSherman and Cecile Rocher,
Brand Ambassador for Chateau Larose-Trintaudon

Professional tasters, or those in the trade know the routine and rigor of tasting, but for the average person, they're not likely aware of the demands of such a tasting. For such an event, with so many wines tasted, I'll rate them on a scale of 1 to 5 with 5 being the best. 

Tasting so many wines in one setting, I admit I succumb to palette fatigue and start to lose my sense of discrimination, so I won't try to rate on the more precise 100 point scale that is so often used. 

Also, note I didn't drink any wine, rather spit out the wine tasted, so my diminution of discrimination was not due to alcohol. 

Lastly, I did endeavor to occasionally cleanse my palette with water, bread and cheese, and while this helps immensely, I believe my olfactory senses ebb and flow over the course of the day as a result.

The 2012 will not be a blockbuster vintage, like the 2010, or 2009, but with careful selection, will provide pleasurable drinking at more affordable prices. The wines should show to be more approachable at an earlier age as well. 

 The stand out appellations that seemed to be high performing appeared to be wines from the Pauillac Appellation followed by Margaux, and then St Julien.

The Pauillac appellation seemed to not only be showing the best results for the vintage but also seemed to be most consistent amongst the group of producers represented. 

Pauillac wines tasted and showing best:
 
Five stars: Gold
Chateau Pichon Baron  (shown left)
Chateau Pichon Comtesse Longueville de Lalande
Chateau Lynch Bages 
All showed full body, complex concentrated forward dark fruits, very structured with a firm tannic backbone on the long finish.
Four stars: Silver
Grand Puy Lacoste  
Grand Puy Ducasse
Chateau Clerc Milon




From St Estephe - Phelan Segur a perennial favorite stood out - 4 stars / Silver
 

 








Margaux seemed to show well however it seemed to lack the consistency of the Pauillacs. 

From the 'heart of Margaux' - Lascombes,
Malescot St Exupery, and Marquis de Tertre

Four stars each:  Silver

Chateau Dauzac (a new discovery)
Chateau Giscours
Chateau Brane-Cantenac
Chateau Cantenac Brown
Chateau Lascombes
Chateau Marquis de Tertre

 







St Julien is one of our favorite appellations and most widely held in our cellar. 

The always delightful David Launay
of Gruaud Larose

Four 1/2 stars each: Silver/Gold
Chateau Leoville Barton
Chateau Langoa Barton

Four stars each: Silver
Chateau Gruaud Larose
Chateau LaGrange
Chateau Beyechevelle
Chateau Branaire Ducru

Medium bodied, core of concentrated dark fruits, tones of cedar, tobacco leaf and leather, with moderate tannins.  

A new discovery of the tasting was Chateau St Pierre from the same ownership as Chateau Gloria. I've had this a couple times but never in a setting to compare to other benchmark appellation producers.

Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse

Chateau Branaire-Ducru

Several of the Right Bank St Emilion and Pomerol appellation Merlot based wines seemed to come across a bit austere and slightly astringent with a woody and green cedar tone. 

Highlights of the that sub-region that were standouts were:

Again, as with last year, Chateau Clinet (left) was a standout of the event and certainly of the Right Bank selections.

Four and 1/2 stars: Silver/Gold

Chateau Clinet
Chateau Gazin 
Chateau Troplong Mondot

Four Stars: Silver
Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere











From the Barzac et Sauternes appellations, home to sweet white dessert style wines, the standouts were:

Five Stars: Gold
Chateau Giraud - regretably, this was gone by the evening session

Four Stars: Silver (Shown above)
Chateau Rayne Vigneau 
Chateau La Tour Blanche

The next generation - son Ryan McNees, collector and enthusiast, and Hugo Olivier of Domaine Chevalier.
 

Gruaud Larose v Chateau Palmer

Gruaud Larose vs Chateau Palmer - contrasting styles vintage Bordeaux

For a gala birthday dinner celebrating wife Linda's birthday with kids Ryan & Michelle, I pulled from the cellar two vintage twenty-five year old Bordeaux, Chateau Palmer and Chateau Gruaud Larose. For my bride's birthday, I know of no label that defines elegance more than the distinctive gold on black of the super second Margaux, Chateau Palmer with its smooth refined floral perfume laced fruit. And Gruaud Larose has emerged as a signature Bordeaux wine of Ryan and me as we've tasted several vintages together including our encounters with winemaker David Launay at the UGC events. What a contrast in styles with the muscular firm bold Gruaud aside the diminutive refined Palmer.

We still hold each of these wines in magnum and other large formats from each of the kids' birthyears as well as several other vintages in standard format.

At twenty-five years old from an average vintage, I was hopeful that the wines were still holding and up to the occasion. I opened and decanted them about 1:00 pm and returned them to the cellar before rebottling and recorking them for dinner. On initial opening they were both closed and withdrawn and both appeared to have lost some of the luster of their color. Even then, upon re-opening at the restaurant around 7:00 pm, over the course of the evening, it was still two hours before they really opened and started to reveal their full fruit and nuances of their breadth and depth.

Our celebration dinner took place at Cafe Absinthe in Wicker Park, Chicago, a French influenced American bistro. The picturesque trendy eatery is part Paris part Chicago with rustic brick walls revealing a faded painted billboard, high ceilings, wood floors and white tablecloths. While it sits at the high energy bustling corner of Damen, North and Milwaukee Avenues, the unconventional entrance is around the corner in the alley.

The menu is basic selection of four starters, chowder, four salads and less than a dozen entrees of beef, lamb, chicken, scallops, a risotto, salmon and breast of duck. The wine list is minimalist but they cater to BYOB interests. All the selections were imaginative, nicely presented, delicious and fairly priced.

The Palmer was a perfect complement to the Hudson Valley Foie Gras, the roasted beet salad with nuts and white pepper, and the chocolate lava cake. The Gruaud Larose was the perfect complement to my New York strip steak with red wine reduction and au gratin potatoes, the beef tenderloin and the lamb chops.


Chateau Palmer Margaux 1988

I purchased a case of this wine upon release back in the early nineties and this is the second to last bottle remaining.

Medium bodied, ruby/garnet colored, moderate acidity, the boysenberry and black raspberry fruits were accented by tones of cigar box, a whisper of eucalyptus and earthy leather, before giving way to a mouthful of bright floral perfume that lingered on the long finish of sinewy silky tannins.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6045
 

Chateau Gruaud Larose St Julien 1988

We hold this wine in a dozen vintages dating back to early 80's including magnums from several vintages. We asked David Launay, winemaker about this vintage when we met him at the UGC Chicago tasting event and he advised we should start drinking it over the next few years.

Full bodied, dark garnet colored, lively acidity with firm core of black berry fruits accented by tobacco, leather and hints of cassis with moderate tannins on the finish.

RM 89 points.

More to come ....