Pour Boys Wine Dinner at Del Ray Beach Wine Kitchen

Pour Boys Wine Dinner at Wine Kitchen Wine Cellar in Del Ray Beach

The Pour Boys descended upon Del Ray Beach to visit Bob & Gloria in their sunshine state home for a mini-reunion. We held a wine dinner in the private cellar dining room at Wine Kitchen in Del Ray Beach. We dined there on our previous trips to the area and planned a dinner in their cellar private dining room on our next trip into town. 

I first wrote about the Delray Beach Wine Room Kitchen Wine and Cheese Bar after our first visit back in 2019. They boast to have "The World's Largest Selection of Wine by the Glass!"  with over 200 hand-selected wines available through their Enomatic wine dispensing machines. Bill and I visited there again when we were in town later in the year and had a Spectacular Wine Cheese Pairing featuring Cliff Lede Poetry 2004.

Rick & Bob with Wine Director Ron Mitchell
in the cellar during our winter visit last year

A major attraction of the venue for serious wine aficionados is their extensive wine cellar of fine wines with a Reserve List of top vintage wines dating back several decades. Most importantly, they offer such wines at close to retail prices rather than marking them up 1.5, 2 or two and a half times retail or more.

The Reserve Wine List includes extraordinary vintage selections of premium and super premium wines including First Growth classified Bordeaux that are also offered at fair market price or current retail prices for such wines, a fraction of what most other restaurants would charge.

With this enticement, we reserved the private dining room for our gathering. Dr Dan and our two Lindas and I flew in from Chicago, and Bill and Beth C drove down from Charleston. 

We selected a flight of extraordinary wines, perfectly paired with the selection of artisan cheeses and charcuterie, our pre-entree selections, our entrees and the dessert courses. 

One of the showcase highlights of the Del Ray Wine Kitchen, beyond the wine BTG (By-The-Glass) selections and the Fine and Rare Cellar Collections, is their Cheese program. The Cheese program is designed and developed by world-renowned Maître Fromager and James Beard award-winner Max McCalman. He was America's first restaurant-based Maître Fromager. Max was honored by L'Esprit Alimentaire (French Food Spirit Awards) in NYC. 

Max is the author of Mastering Cheese which received the World's Best Book on Cheese award in Paris at the 16th Annual Gourmand World Cookbook Awards and was designated a finalist by the prestigious International Association of Culinary Professionals.

Max has also written two more books on cheese - "The Cheese Plate" (Clarkson Potter Publishers, 2002), which was nominated for awards by the James Beard Foundation and by the International Association of Cooking Professionals, and Cheese: A Connoisseur's Guide to the World's Best (Clarkson Potter, 2005), an expansive reference on the world's finest cheeses and their wine pairings, which won a 2006 James Beard Award. 

Max personally currated our cheese and charcuterie plates from the incredible selection of over 80 cheeses and a broad variety of charcuterie meats in a Mix & Match offering. In addition to the cheeses were olives, almonds and artichoke hearts. 

Max was so into the cheeses and the whole culinary experience, he made no effort to leverage the opportunity to promote or commercialize his brand. Earlier in the day I asked that he come in and meet us and bring and sign copies of his book which we looked forward to purchasing. We never got around to it. A missed opportunity for all.

The Wine selected was guided by Wine Director Ron Mitchell. 

Our wine flight journey started with this extraordinary white with the cheese and charcuterie selections. 

Kongsgaard Napa Valley Carneros Chardonnay 2016

John Kongsgaard and his wife Maggy are fith-generation Napa natives. They began their Napa Valley wine experience in the 1970s planting The Judge vineyard on the Kongsgaard estate family land near Napa. The inaugural Kongsgaard wines came in 1996. 

Today, in addition to their legendary signature estate The Judge labels, they produce a portfolio of Napa Valley varietal wines - Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Albariño. They craft their wines in their underground winery — a cave dug into the volcanic rock, high on the eastern rim of the Napa Valley where they have also planted their spectacular mountain vineyard. 

My son's and I had the Kongsgaard Carneros Hudson Ranch Syrah for my father-son birthday celebration dinner just a couple weeks ago. This is sourced from the same vineyard as tonight's Chardonnay. 

Kongsgaards source the fruit for this label as well as their Syrah from several perfect acres in the Napa Carneros, of which they direct the farming under long-term contracts. They also source fruit from several sites near the winery. They write that "these intensely farmed, shy-bearing vineyards and their traditional low-intervention winemaking produce powerful, graceful wines—vivid expressions of vineyard and variety". Production is limited to what they, along with their son Alex, hand craft in their own proprietary labels. 

This release was awarded 97 points by The Wine Advocate and 95 points by Vinous / IWC (International Wine Cellar). It should be noted that the 2016 Kongsgaard "The Judge" Napa Valley Chardonnay was awarded 100 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

Golden colored, medium full bodied, rich, focused, complex, round, decadent fruits of what Wine Advocate calls "nectarine, spiced pears and apple pie... and candied ginger", with stunning sprites of what I struggled to describe as nutty almond and nutmeg with a long smooth sumptuous finish. 

RM 95 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2719612

www.kongsgaard-wine.com

We then moved to a flight of red Bordeaux blends wines that were a perfect pairing with our next courses. This provided a nicely diverse but balanced trio to compare.

From the charcuterie we shared a 56 ounce tomahawk ribeye steak sliced for sharing by the group. 

Château Beychevelle St Julien Bordeaux 2010

We hold more than a dozen vintages of this label in our cellar dating back to the eighties. We visited Château Beychevelle and had a private tour and tasting during our visit to Beychevelle St Julien, Bordeaux in 2019. 

As usual, we were attentive to the tasting order of the wines based on our experience and knowledge of their character, profiles and the vintages. We tasted this first in our flight of three reds. In the end, we were correct in our approach in all respects. 

The Chateau Beychevelle 2010 blend consists of Cabernet Sauvignon (54%), Merlot (38%), Cabernet Franc (5%) and Petit Verdot (3%).

This release was awarded 95 points by James Suckling,  94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Enthusiast, 93 points by  Wine Spectator, and 91 points by Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar.

Suckling summed this up well, "Beautiful aromas of blackberries, currants and flowers. Very aromatic. Full body, with ultra-fine tannins and gorgeous fruit. It's polished and very refined. One of the best Beychevelles in years."  

Wine Enthusiast also captures the style and approach, "Beychevelle's style privileges elegance over weight, and such is the case with the 2010. It's a pure-fruited, ripe and lightly tannic wine, emphasizing a blackberry note."

This was the lightest, and most approachable of the three labels. Ruby colored, medium bodied, soft, nicely balanced, initially slightly astringent on opening (what Stephen Tanzer referred to as 'medicinal'), it opened up and that blew off after 1/2 hour to reveal pleasant black currant and black berry fruits, notes of floral, earthy leather, herbs and hints of plum on the smooth moderate finish. 

 

RM 91 points. 

 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1358113

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac 2011

We toured the estate and grounds of the Pichons, Chateau Pichon Baron and the adjacent Chateau Pichon Lalande (shown left), during our Bordeaux trip to the Medoc, the same trip we visited Château Beychevelle. 

This is another one of our favorite labels that we hold going back more than three decades, including our kids' birth-year vintages, several in large formats. 

Next in the tasting order, despite being from a lesser, lighter vintage, this was bigger and more complex than the Beychevelle. 

Classic Pauillac in its profile and character, dark garnet colored, full bodied, more tight and firm with its structured backbone, complex black berry fruits with notes of smoke, anise and graphite with a firm long tannin laced finish.

This was a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 12% Cabernet France, and 2% Petit Verdot.

This was awarded 95 points and a *Cellar Selection* by Wine Enthusiast,  93 points James Suckling, 92 points by Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, and 91 points by Wine Spectator.

Dark garnet purple colored, full bodied, concentrated with weight and power, rich black fruits with blackberry, dark-chocolate, cassis, spice, tobacco and hints of cedar with firm tannins on a long, intense finish. 

RM 93

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1355736

Peter Michael Les Pavots Sonoma County Knights Valley Red Wine 

Fellow Pour Boy Ernie was not with us tonight. but we toasted him with this super premium Sonoma County Bordeaux Blend that he collects as a member of their club. In retrospect, as I research and write this blog, I see Ernie served this same label to us at our OTBN wine gathering tasting in 2014. 

We hold a few bottles of this in our cellar. 

The 2005 Les Pavots is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot.

This was awarded 95 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 93 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, and 92 points by Wine Spectator.

While this was last in our tasting order it might've been best placed in the middle but it was great to compare the Bordeaux and then move to the Californian. 

This was the most elegant, polished and refined of the three wines, more complex, fuller, more round than the Beychevelle, but more approachable than the more powerful brutish Pichon. 

Parker likened this wine more to a Right Bank Merlot based blend, "a sensational wine, with a style that suggests a hypothetical blend of a great St.-Emilion and Pomerol". 

Ruby colored, medium full bodied, smooth and harmonious layers of black berry, black raspberry and currant fruits with notes of tobacco, mocha and hints of anise and graphite on a soft silky tannin laced lingering finish. 

Consistent with my earlier tasting six years ago, "Dark ruby colored, elegant and polished, full bodied with full complex concentrated layers of blackberry, black raspberry and blackcurrant with tones of black tea, cigar box and hint of dark mocha and cedar on a silky smooth finish." At that time I gave this 95 points. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=505831

 http://www.petermichaelwinery.com/

 After dinner we had dessert selections, Parisian Beignets, Crispy Pâté à Choux, Cinnamon & Sugar, Salted Caramel, Spiced Ganache, Passionfruit Curd and decadent Double Dark Chocolate Cake, Coconut Dulce de Leche, Sweet Shiraz Jam, Dried Blueberries, Hazelnut Crumble.

With the delicious dessert course we took advantage of the BTG program and tasted two perfect accompaniment dessert wines. 

Dolce Napa Valley Late Harvest 2013

This Dolce Late Harvest White dessert wine is a meal course in itself! Dolce is one the most notable late harvest wines in America, first crafted in 1985 by the partners of Far Niente. Dolce stands as standard bearer. Wine Enthusiast lovingly calls it "one of the greatest sweet California wines in memory". 

Dolce’s 20-acre vineyards are located in Coombsville, east of the city of Napa, and are situated at the base of the Vaca Mountains, which define the eastern border of the valley. The volcanic soil is loose and well drained, and the west-facing vineyard is protected from the prevailing winds so that the damp, morning fog of autumn—a very important factor in the development of Botrytis cinerea—hangs longer amongst the vines, often until midday. A combination of high humidity followed by drying conditions encourages, but does not guarantee, the growth of Botrytis. As the mold develops, its coverage is seemingly random with individual berries succumbing to Botrytis at different rates, if at all. 

With a classic blend of late harvest Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc varietals in the style of a classic Bordeaux Sauterne, Dolce is the only American winery dedicated to producing a single late harvest wine. 

Dolce has produced a wine in every vintage, yet in small, unpredictable quantities; testament to the incredible difficulties presented every year in the effort to make Dolce. "Dolce is an extraordinary wine bred from a combination of sunshine, soil, fog, expertise and dedication; a wondrous luxury, limited by nature to always being a gift of absurd rarity." 

Dolce is a blend of 89% Semillon and 11% Sauvignon Blanc.

Winemaker's Notes: "The 2013 Dolce offers lifted and youthful aromas of orange zest, vanilla bean and butterscotch with subtle notes of minerality and oak-derived spices. The entry is juicy, and Dolce’s signature texture is lively and enduring on the palate leading to a mouthwatering finish. Flavors of orange, pear and dried apricot mingle together with rich caramel notes and hints of minerals that make this vintage a delicious expression of the season’s exceptional ripeness." 

After nearly three years in French oak, this luxurious vintage shows bright stone-fruit aromatics and flavors, elegant caramel undertones and has a texture like silk.

RM 94 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2547948

Fonseca Vintage Port 2016

Winemaker's Notes: "Dense purple black with a narrow purple rim. The nose opens with very fine pure black fruit, a fusion of black cherry, cassis and blackberry jam aromas, with notes of crushed mint, an ethereal fragrance of violets and undertones of ripe tropical fruit. The year has added an additional layer of purity and refinement to the subtle, complex Fonseca fruit character, as well as an attractive minerality. The palate is supported by a vibrant acidity and taut, wiry tannins that provide structure but also texture and volume. The fresh berry flavours carry into the long finish A finely crafted and perfectly balanced Vintage Port."

This was awarded 98 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and James Suckling, and an extraordinary consensus 97 points by Wine Enthusiast, Wine Spectator, Decanter and the Tasting Panel.

Parker said, " Don't even think of buying it if you aren't prepared to cellar it. The 2030 start date that I have will not be even close to late enough if you want harmony and complexity. To me, this is the best of the three 2016's from the Fladgate Group this issue (Croft and Taylor being the other two), thanks to its pure intensity, but time will tell if it becomes as sexy as I'm sure Taylor's will be. In the meanwhile, Fonseca looks like one of the greats of this vintage."

We're holding in our cellar releases of this label dating back to the eighties, most notably the 1985 vintage, birthyear of son Sean. 

Dark ruby colored, full bodied, dense, mildly sweet with notes of figs, sweet cassis, vanilla, hints of creosote and toast with tongue puckering gripping sweet tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 93

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=2977974

http://www.fonseca.pt/

https://www.thewineroomonline.com/delray-beach

@maitrefromager

@wineroomonline

Max McCalman's works available at DelRay Kitchen Wine and Cheese Bar:

OTBN 2014

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2014

This night's tasting featured a varied selection of wines following a couple themes. One  commemorating this year being the 4th decade for Linda and me featured the four decade anniversary vintages of '74, '84, '94 and '04. The others reflected the spirit of OTBN, to bring whatever label was desired for drinking that night. As is always the case, the occasion produced a great tasting event of fabulous and interesting wines, great wine and food pairings, fellowship, friendship and fun.

Bill and Beth hosted and prepared a great wine friendly dinner of beef tenderloin, duck breast, scalloped potatoes, haricot verts, green salad, caprese salad and a desert course. Before dinner there was a selection of artisan cheeses, and shrimp cocktail.  A mixed green salad was accompanied by a cold tomato based soup.

The 'line-up'.

The OTBN (Open That Bottle Night) tradition calls for the event to occur the last Saturday night in February. This year's event was postponed twice, initially due to an outbreak of the flu and then for another conflict. So we declared tonight's tasting to effectively became our fourth OTBN in this column. See our 2011, 2012 and 2013 OTBN reports.

As written in this blog to explain previous OTBN's, here's the story. Credit (or blame) for this annual wine bachanalia goes to Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal. OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, was conceived for those that have a special bottle of wine or champagne hidden away being saved for a special occasion that for whatever reason hasn't happened.  

Every year since 2000, on the last Saturday night in February, Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) has been celebrated - the time to uncork and enjoy that cherished but here-to-for elusive bottle. OTBN was conceived by Gaiter and Brecher to say, what the heck, go for it, Open That Bottle (to)Night. They realized they weren't alone - having that special bottle set aside for an occasion that just never happens. On this night, you don't need an excuse or a reason - just do it! Take advantage of OTBN to open that bottle and enjoy it! Enjoy it by yourself, or better yet, enjoy it with someone special, or even better, with a group of special friends. Have everyone bring such a bottle and let the story telling begin, because amazingly, every OTBN bottle has a story or some meaning, or not. What the heck, Open That Bottle (To) Night!. Let the fun begin.   

The ritual for all our tasting events starts with the 'lineup', the exercise of lining up the bottles in the planned order of tasting. This is a fun debate that by default conforms to the prescribed tasting conventions - starting with the lighter and simpler wines first since a heavier or heartier wine will overpower lesser wines and you'll lose all sense of discrimination or calibration for them.

More precision on tasting order is:

Dry before sweet: This is probably the most important of the following rules, so if in doubt - opt for the "dry before sweet" rule. Sweet wines typically carry a long finish - drinking a dry wine with a short finish following a sweet wine with a long finish will almost always leave the dry wine tasting sour.

Old before young: Mature wines tend to provide the most subtle, elegant, and finessed nuances and should be sipped first to honor the complexity of the flavors that aging provides. Younger wines bear more tannin and fruit and will often wipe out some of the subtle qualities of older wines if tasted first.

White usually before Red: White wines are usually more delicate than reds - which is why many presume that red should always follow white. However, in some cases (ex. light Pinot Noir vs. full-flavored Voigners) sweeter wines pack a longer finish than dry wines, so save your sweet syrupy whites to follow drier reds for optimum flavor.

Light-bodied before full-bodied: The delicate flavors and aromas found in light-bodied wines will be missed entirely if consumed following tannic, robust reds.

Once the initial tasting order is set, part of the fun is testing it to see if we got it right based on the actual tasting results. Most often we get it right with just a few tweeks along the way. Again on this night, this was the case. 

Before we ventured into the flight, Bill served a pair of chardonnays with the pre-meal shrimp and assorted cheeses - Sancerre 2012 and Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2009.

We started the red wine flight with two 1984 California Cabernet Sauvignons - Guenoc Lake County, and Silver Oak Napa Valley.

Guenoc Lake County Cabernet Sauvignon 1984

The story behind this bottle goes back to a tasting that occurred in July 1998 when I served a large format six liter bottle of this wine to colleagues from around the world at a global country managers meeting. Colleague Pete F and I entertained the group and I hosted a special wine tasting featuring 16 different wines from their respective countries from my cellar. One of the highlights of the tasting culminated with the 6 liter bottle the label of which we all signed (left). 

My notes from that event - "What do you expect from a 14 year old Lake County Cab? What a pleasant surprise to find this one full of berry, plum, cherry and an earthy mocha chocolate. This was tasted from a six liter bottle which no doubt held the fruit." 

The story about tonight's bottle resulted from our visit to the winery in the early 90's seeking a bottle of 1984 from their library. They said there weren't any for sale. When I told them I was holding this 6 liter bottle in my cellar for a special occasion and I wanted some from that vintage to 'test' before serving, they kindly obliged with a couple bottles. This is the last remaining bottle from that purchase. Read more about large format bottles.

I was prepared to dump this and move on to the next bottle, expecting that I had held onto this thirty year old for too long. Not to be as we were pleasantly surprised to find it was still holding was eminently drinkable, albeit with diminished color, structure and fruit being whispers of what they once were as noted above. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=34985

Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1984

Notice (above) the Silver Oak '84 bears the old historic 'silver' label that today is used only for the Alexander Valley release while Napa Valley is now adorned by an upscale painted bottle branding and packaging.

As with the Guenoc above, this was still drinkable although it had diminished color and fruit. That Silver Oak signature oakiness still predominated and stood out over the subdued earthy berry and cedar leathery finish. 

RM 84 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=22527


Leoville Barton St Julien Bordeaux 1994

From Bill's cellar. From a more modest Bordeaux vintage, this still showed classic left bank complexity of earthy leather and notes of cedar with smooth polished subdued blackberry fruit accent with a hint of anise on a nicely refined lingering tannin finish.

RM 89 points. 


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1174





Château Malescot St. Exupéry Margaux Bordeaux 2004

Bill had open this magnum of this savory Bordeaux to start the evening. 

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied with huge floral perfume aromatics that typify the best of Margaux. They give way to pleasant, nicely balanced black raspberry and black currant fruits with tones of anise, expresso, and hints of spicy mocha on a leathery tobacco finish. 


RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=87208




La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva 2004

Lyle brought this Tempranillo based Rioja Reserva.

Garnet colored, medium bodied, black fruits give way to earthy, tobacco, spice, smoke and leather with a long balanced finish.

RM 90

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=844857




Peter Michael Les Pavots Sonoma County Knights Valley Red Wine 2005

Ernie brought these two Peter Michael selections from his cellar.

Les Pavots is an estate bottled Bordeaux blend from the slopes of Mt Helena above the eastern Knights Valley in Sonoma County.

Dark ruby colored, elegant and polished, full bodied with full complex concentrated layers of blackberry, black raspberry and blackcurrant with tones of black tea, cigar box and hint of dark mocha and cedar on a silky smooth finish.

Blend: 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc, 12% Merlot & 2% Petit Verdot

This got huge reviews and scores - 95 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator
and 93 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

RM 95 points.

 http://www.petermichaelwinery.com/

Peter Michael Esprit Des Pavots 2004

’Esprit des Pavots' literally means “The Spirit of the Poppies.” This wine is sourced from the original Les Pavots vineyard blocks recently replanted with the rarest and best clones of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

Dark ruby colored, full bodied, bright vibrant expressive full forward concentrated rich berry and plum fruits, smooth and polished despite complexity from hints of mocha, anise and black tea with full tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=224266

Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Red Wine 2004

Dan brought this and the Dominus Estate from his cellar - two napa Valley Bordeaux Blends. This may have been my favorite of the evening although the Les Pavots was a close second.

A blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec

Another huge point scorer with  97 points from Wine Enthusiast, 94 from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator.

Dark ruby and inky purple color, full bodied, this required about an hour to open and reveal its true charachter and fruits - complex but elegant, balanced and polished, rich deep concentrated notes of blackberries, cassis, with hints of rich, crème caramel, sweet oak and cedar with smooth polished finely integrated tannins on the long finish.

RM 95 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/editnote.asp?iWine=165834


Dominus Estate Napa Valley Red Wine 2010 

While this got a 100 point rating from Robert Parker, the most noted major reviewers, like so many Dominus releases, it may take a decade or more for it to reveal its full potential.

While clearly a spectacular wine, at this young age, its a bit closed and tight suppressing its fruits and other nuances.

Blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, firm, dense concentrated complex layers of black fruits, black tea, creosote and anise with hints cedar of spice and dark chocolate with firm tight but well integrated tannins on the finish.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1374630



d'Arenberg Dead Arm McLaren Vale Shiraz 2004

Ernie also brought this from his cellar. The '04 is as big and dense as Dead Arm gets but was not as sweet as some vintages.

Dark inky black purple color, full bodied, thick, dense, tongue-coating unctuous layer of ripe plum, black raspberry, ripe blueberry and a layer of anise and black cherry with a spicy long firm tannin lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=246254



Taylor (Fladgate) Vintage Port Quinta de Vargellas 1974

I acquired this bottle at the legendary British wine merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd at their shop at 3 St James's Street London back in the early eighties. Back then of course you carry it in your hand luggage on the airplane.


Single Quinta Vintage Port (SQVP) is a title given to Port wines produced from a single vineyard (quinta) and from in a single vintage.

This is regarded by many as the most exciting category of port wine, since it offers the winemaker the opportunity to explore a more terroir-driven approach to fortified winemaking. An emerging style, SQVP started to gain popularity after 1986 when transportation restrictions were raised and smaller estates started to enter the market.

Single-quinta, or single-vineyard, vintage Porto is produced only in exceptional years in which a general vintage is not declared. Quinta de Vargellas vineyard has been part of the Taylor Fladgate estate for more than a century. It is known as one of the top 100 vineyards in the world with the highest percentage of old vines of any quinta in the Douro, with 60% over 75 years old. 


The 1974 vintage was a moderate year that was not declared by the major port houses. Some excellent single harvest colheitas were produced. For the vintage ports, despite a huge crop, very few vintage port-wines were bottled from this year and the bottles are very rare.

Quinta de Vargellas is the flagship of Taylor Fladgate's declared vintage Portos. In the best undeclared years, Quinta de Vargellas is produced on its own as a single-quinta vintage Porto.

While top vintage Vintage Ports often age for several decades, these SQVP's tend to last a decade or two so at forty years of age, this was pushing the limits of its aging window. Furthermore, the bottle and cork showed some signs of seepage although I don't recall ever noticing this in the cellar. Lastly, upon decanting, there was no less than a half a cup of sediment resembling coffee grounds in the bottom of the bottle. 

This was a bit lean in body and the color was a bit opaque and showed tones of rust color with an orangish hue. It had a big aromatic nose and flavors of intense concentrated black berries, black raspberry, and anise, with tones of cloves, cedar and touch of smoke with a big strong layer of high alcohol. It open immediately and continued to soften throughout the evening. It was drinkable and a tribute to our 1974 anniversary celebration but clearly nearing its end of life.  

Two nights later this was smooth and nicely balanced and resembled a moderate cognac which we enjoyed with some caramel, chocolate and berries. 

RM 85 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=36107

Taylor Fladgate Vintage Porto Quinta de Vargellas 1995

Lyle is a big port enthusiast and he matched my Taylor Fladgate with this vintage selection. 

Dark ruby colored, medium bodied, intense berry, dried raisins, fig with layers of cedar and anise with a long fruity, alcohol laced finish. 

RM 88 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19047




The OTBN crew and their wine contributions to the flight are pictured below.

The hosts - Bill and Beth. 

 The author/blogger of unwindwine blogspot.

Gala Dinner - Awesome Reds Wine Tasting

Gala Dinner - Awesome Reds Wine Tasting

Almost like the alignment of the sun, moon and stars for a celestial event, our autumn gala dinner tasting get-together at Dr Dan's featured an awesome line-up of memorable reds and a spectacular aged vintage white. What might have been billed as a battle of dueling reds turned surprisingly harmonious with intriguing complements and smooth transitions across a tasting of disparate styles of master class selections. One had to pay attention for fear of missing a spectacular wine in the mix! Ironically, this also provided an unplanned almost mini-horizontal of dozen year old disparate Napa Valley Reds from 1998 and 1999. Even the vintage selections proved to be well matched as the mid-flight included 2003, a pair of nicely 2004's and recent releases.

Joining L & I at Dan's with Linda were Bill and Beth, Bobbie, Ernie and Gina. Dan and Linda prepared a marvelous dinner of grilled beef tenderloin, marinated pork tenderloin, butternut squash with creme fraisch, artisan cheeses, and chocolate cakes and truffles to finish.

Awesome Reds Flight minus the Sea Smoke (not shown)

The line-up included, listed in order of tasting after thoughtful assessment and lively discussion, explained further in the discourse below:

• Sea Smoke 'Ten' Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2009
• Beaulieu Vineyards Georges de Latour Private Reserve Napa Valley Red 1998
• Joseph Phelps Backus Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
• Peter Michael 'Les Pavots' 1999
• Freddie Constant Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1999
• Barbour Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
• La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barbaresco Riserva Vürsù Vigneto Starderi 2008
• d'Arenberg 'The Dead Arm' Shiraz 2002
• Mollydooker 'Carnival of Love' McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010
• Coutet-Barzac 1959
• Joseph Phelps Eisrebe 2004

Sea Smoke 'Ten' Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2009

The name 'Ten' is from the clones on which this Pinot Noir varietal is based.

 Ruby colored, medium bodied - silky, polished - a symphony of nicely balanced delicate fruit flavors, nice tart acidic, expressive elegant aromatics, nice floral scents turn to strawberries, plum and black cherry, hints of cola, nut and dusty rose with a touch of soft oak on the smooth finish.

Winemakers' notes - "A brooding and intense wine. The aromas begin with notes of chocolate cake, dried blueberry and lavender, then cassis and dusty black berries. Firm, mature tannins—evidence of Ten’s ageability—are followed by a long, velvety finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1025981

https://www.seasmoke.com/index.asp


Beaulieu Vineyards Georges de Latour Private Reserve Napa Valley Red 1998

It would have been easy for this to be overshadowed by the full forward concentrated fruit bombs except that we staged this as the transition between the Pinot and the 'big' Cal cabs to follow, before closing with the Aussie Shiraz'.

Garnet colored, medium bodied,  this was a symphony of smooth polished nicely integrated black berry and black cherry fruit flavors accented by a layer of tobacco, hints of leather, a bit of earthiness with a finish of moderate oak. After about two hours delicate floral notes emerged as a highlight like a lower left bank Bordeaux. This wine has held up well and was very Bordeaux like in showing well despite its pedigree of a modest vintage - more like the challenging years more often found in Bordeaux than the more consistent seasons of Northern California all seemingly make more Bordeaux like than Napa-esque.

RM 89 points.



Joseph Phelps Backus Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

A wonderful transition and progression adding weight and structure at each step in the flight. Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, this was silky smooth, nicely balanced, polished and elegant with black berry and black raspberry fruits with hints of currant, chocolate truffle and touch of vanilla bean with a layer of soft oak and silky smooth tannins. Dan likened it to a refined St Julien Bordeaux.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=165835







Peter Michael 'Les Pavots' 1999

This was my favorite of the tasting flight. I still remember my first encounter with this wine back around 1990 when we had it at dinner dinner at Cab's Restaurant and Wine Bar in Glen Ellyn, IL, one of our then favorite dining places.

Dark inky garnet colored, full bodied, a backbone core of concentrated but smooth polished and balanced black currant, blackberry, more subtle black cherry  and hints of blueberry fruits with nicely integrated layers of mocha, soft oak and hints vanilla, cassis and tea on a lingering silky tannin finish. This was a delicious balance of a full throttle Cal-Cab and a Pauillac Bordeaux.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=8110

http://www.petermichaelwinery.com/

There is remarkable irony here as the principle Sir Peter Michael happens to be in the technology business, like me. He is also owner of two lodging properties located in Newbury, Berkshire, England. That was the home to Micro Focus, the software company that brought the Cobol programming language to the PC, and eventually to over six hundred platforms. I was with Micro Focus during those formative years from 1983 to 1996 during which time it grew from $3.5 to $140m becoming the 20th largest software company in the world, and largest in the UK at that time.  During those years, as a Group VP, I visited Newbury almost two hundred times. I've not yet had the opportunity to meet Sr Michael but look forward to doing so one day, either in Newbury, or at the Winery Estate in California. .




Freddie Constant Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

L, Bill and me with Freddie at
Constant Diamond Mtn Vineyards

We refer to it as Freddie Constant Wine based on our adventure having met the producer Freddie Constant during our visit to the magnificent winery high atop Diamond Mountain during our Napa Valley Diamond Mountain Wine Experience in 2011.

What an amazing pairing with the Les Pavots above! On initial opening and decanting, it was almost as if this were the core central component of the blend, this exhibited the same profile of  full bodied backbone core of concentrated but smooth polished and balanced black currant, blackberry, more subtle black cherry fruits with hints of blueberry fruits but lacking the moderating tones of the blend. After about two hours, this opened up even more to reveal more concentrated and forward black fruits with a hints of black pepper and olive - separating itself from the moderating effects of the more elegant and polished blend.

Bill's tasting notes from CellarTracker - "Inky purple in the glass. Full of dark fruit, pencil lead and coffee. Opened after 2 hour to reveal notes of pepper and spice. Very unexpected and absolutely outstanding."

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=43558

http://www.constantwine.com/



Barbour Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

If we did this flight again, I think this would better fit between the Bacchus and the Peter Michel. It was narrower (than the Les Pavots) and more modest than the Constant and others to follow and hence overshadowed such that it probably didn't show nearly as well as it likely would if held up stand-alone or against more similarly situated peers. Not bad company to be compared against indeed, it suffers from damning with faint praise in this comparison flight of blockbuster wines! 

All in all this is a dark inky purple full bodied smooth polished cab with forward black berry fruits, accents of dark chocolate and sweet oak with nicely integrated fine silky tannins on a lingering finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1155213



La Spinetta (Rivetti) Barbaresco Riserva Vürsù Vigneto Starderi 2008

Forgive the repetition but I'll reiterate my comments above about the Barbour, if we did this flight again, I think this would better fit between the Bacchus and the Peter Michel. It was narrower (than the Les Pavots) and more modest than the Constant and others to follow and hence overshadowed such that it probably didnt show nearly as well as it likely would if held up stand-alone or against more similarly situated peers. Not bad company to be compared against indeed, it suffers from damning with faint praise in this comparison flight of blockbuster wines!  Perhaps too, these both were consumed too young and would reveal themselves more fully after a couple years in the cellar.

How can you not take seriously a wine with a Rhinocerus on the label!?!  Its either farcical or to be taken very deliberately - this is another blockbuster wine that is caught in between the more polished elegance of the blends and the bigger full-throttle varietal Cabernets.

First we should parse the wine label to explain this wine. From the producer La Spinetta, the grower and winemaker is George Rivetti; fruit for this wine are sourced from the single vineyard Vigneto Starderi in the Barbaresco appellation in the Langhe district in the Piedmont region. The varietal is the Nebbiolo grape.

The Nebbiolo black-skinned Italian variety is the basis for some of the best and longest lived red wines of Italy, however, despite the preeminence Nebbiolo has in its native Piedmont region in northern Italy its is relatively unknown beyond. Because of its success in DOCGs of Barolo and Barbaresco, it has begun to be planted in the new world in the Central Coast near Paso Robles and Santa Ynez Valley, and in drier regions of the Pacific North West, such as Washington’s Columbia Valley and Oregon’s Rogue Valley, in South America, and Australia.

The name derives from nebbia, the Italian word for ‘fog’, which regularly enshrouds the foothill vineyards of the region. Benchmarks for Nebbiolo wines are Barolo and Barbaresco, Piedmontese wines known for  powerful tannic structures, finesse, intense, earthy, dark noses, and hints of floral. Aroma of classic Barolo are characterized to reflect tar, tobacco or smoke, combined with violets and rose petals. Neighboring Barbaresco Nebbiolos tend to be slightly more feminine. While Barbaresco can be more approachable when young than Barolo, it should not be consider light in weight or structure, both Barolo and Barbaresco Nebbiolos can possess muscular tannins and high acidity requiring extensive cellaring to fully show off the grape’s more subtle fruit character.  

This selection exhibited dark purple color, medium full body, black berry fruits with hints of smoke, tar and touch of leather on a lingering moderate tannin finish.

RM 89 points.  

As of this date, the CellarTracker community has not yet discovered or encountered his wine, hence the most recent listing is the 2007 vintage. 
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=791203

http://www.la-spinetta.com/

Still a work in progress - more to follow ! Stay tuned for the Mollydooker Shake!

d'Arenberg "The Dead Arm" Shiraz 2002

Dead Arm refers to the (one armed) vines that when afflicted in the early days of the last century were spared from being turned under and emerged to produce highly concentrated fruit from the single remaining arm that survived after the loss of the other side of the vine. Always a big fruit forward complex wine, the 2003 is true to form with its big forwardness but what was an off-tone of minerality. It has uber ripe almost raisin-fig with a layer of cedar predominating over complex black berry fruits with tones of pepper, spice, and cassis and hint of vanilla with a big long bold finish that has a slight tone of tangy cherry. Linda likes this ripe boldness but its a bit too much to my liking it needs to be tasted with hearty meats, even bar-b-que, or artisan cheeses, such as tonight when it complemented the beef tenderloin, marinated pork tenderloin and then the course of dark chocolate deserts.

RM 89 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=27221




Mollydooker "Carnival of Love" McLaren Vale Shiraz 2010

From Sarah and Sparky Marquis, these left-handed winemakers so named their label 'Mollydooker' which is Aussie for what we call a 'south-paw'.  Their wit and sense of humour is further indicated by their cartoon-esque labels and whimsical names of their wines such as this 'Carnival of Love' their high end Shiraz. Just reading their winelist and looking over their labels is like a journey through the Sunday comics, but rest assured there is nothing funny about this big bold intense Shiraz that  is not for the feint of heart. .

Being a recent release, Bill had to conduct the 'Mollydooker shake' to this bottle. You had to be there!


Building up to this crescendo indicated by its 15.5% alcohol content, this boasts dark opaque inky purple color - full bodied, huge bursts of dense syrupy ripe black berry and dark plum fruits, layers of cassis, spice, sweet dark chocolate, cedar, black pepper and spicy oak with huge but mercifully balanced tannins, that go on and on and on.

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1181887

http://www.mollydookerwines.com/web/index.cfm

Château Coutet a Barzac 1'er Grand Cru Sauterne 1959

What a rare treat to indulge in a 50+ year old vintage wine. This Sauterne brought by Ernie (along with the Les Pavots) would have been straw or butter colored upon release, then turn darker to weak tea color and eventually to a maple syrup color. Amazingly, as 53 years of age, it is rusty brownish orange colored with life still although not likely to improve from further aging. It showed a slight citrus edge on the nut flavors with a subtle layer of smokiness, I wonder if it held more sweet fruit at one stage that bled off with age.  

From the producer's website: "Tasting Notes - The year was marked by an early spring and flowering took place at the beginning of June. The summer was very hot and sunny. On September 24th and 25th, strong rains accelerated the development of Noble Rot in the vineyard that required a team of 150 harvesters. These conditions contributed to the making of a great Sauternes. The harvest took places from September 20th to November 2nd.  The wine is of a dark yellow amber color. Its well-developed nose is rich and complex, an experience that is shared by the palate."

RM 87 points.

The CellarTracker community had not encountered and hence not entered this vintage selection however they list the two adjoining vintages from 1958 and 1960 as noted below respectively: 
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=31099
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=222509


What fun to enter the 1959 vintage selection along with my tasting notes and bottle and label photos!  
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?AllV=True&iWine=1484667

http://www.chateaucoutet.com/




Joseph Phelps Eisrebe Napa Valley Scheurebe Ice Wine 2004

This is consistently one of California's very best dessert wines from a region not known for such. It's vinified from the relatively obscure Scheurebe grape grown in a the small Spring Valley vineyard near the St. Helena estate. Unlike German or Canadian ice wines (see recent post in Inniskillin Ice Wine), where the grapes are left on the vines until they freeze, Phelps uses commercial refrigeration to freeze the grapes before pressing. This results in low yields as the water in the grape freezes leaving the remaining resulting must high in sugar such that the wine ends up with about 8% alcohol and 25% residual sugar. Full bodied, thick and chewy with intense apricot aromas and flavors. A deliciously sweet, unctuous wine, which still has enough acidity to avoid cloying on the palate.


RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=94617

 http://www.josephphelps.com/