Club Lucky Bucktown Chicago celebration dinner features special BYOB Flight

Club Lucky Bucktown Chicago celebration dinner features special BYOB Flight

To celebrate Michelle's Ides of March thirtieth birthday, and their expecting daughter, Ryan booked a gala dinner at neighboring Club Lucky in Bucktown, Chicago. They did a great job accommodating our group of 16 and handling our BYOB special selections commemorating Michelle's birthyear, the year they met, and their anniversary year. Service was superb especially considering our large group and our special handling of our wines.

The food was equally spectacular, even including the anti-pasta salad and grilled calamari starters. The chef's selection Tortellini with asparagus and chicken was good but outclassed by the regular feature Tortellinis filled with chicken and herbs with english peas and pinenuts in vodka cream sauce. The Salmon Oregatano was also very good, served Mediterranean style with white wine, oregano, Italian parsley, fresh lemon and potato wedges. I opted for the Rigatoni with veal meatballs baked with escarole, fresh mozzarella cheese, and marinara which went superbly with the Viader Red wine blend.

To celebrate the gathering Ryan brought a 2001 Chateau Gruaud Larose St Julien Bordeaux and a La Dame Montrose St Estephe Bordeuax 2008. I added a 2001 Viader Napa Valley Proprietary Red Blend. Later, back at the house with birthday desserts featuring artisan cupcakes and Linda's chocolate mousse, we opened a 1983 Hardy's McLaren Vale South Australian vintage port.

While we've been fans of the Cordier conglomerate's Chateau Gruaud Larose from the St Julien appellation since the early 80's and hold a deep vertical selection of this wine in our cellar dating back to 1978, its been especially rewarding and great fun to be a part of son Ryan's discovering this wine. The highlight and one of the events contributing to this was tasting the 2010 vintage while meeting David Launey the winemaker taste the new release with him at the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Chicago 2010 release tour together. Ryan and I are now on a discovery tour of our own discovering/revisiting this wine together. Regrettably I didn't have any 1983's left to bring tonight although we still have magnums or double magnums of 1981, 1982, 1985, 1989 and 1990 releases. The 2001 didn't disappoint, in fact was a surprise in its accessibility, suppleness and forward fruits. 

Chateau Gruaud Larose St Julien Bordeaux 2001

Ironically, like the 2010, this was surprisingly expressive and vibrant for a Gruaud Larose, medium full bodied, deep purple color with full forward black and red berry fruits and classic left bank Bordeaux nuances of floral, subtle earth, leather and smoke leading to a layer of cassis, oak and exotic spices, ending in silky smooth polished tannins on a firm lingering finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4765


La Dame de Montrose St Estephe 2008

Lacking the pedigree of the almost super second Gruaud Larose, this second wine of St Estephe producer Chateau Montrose, while not as complex, concentrated or polished, presented itself respectably well. The 2008 second label La Dame de Montrose was 28% of the estate’s production. The blend is surprisingly 56% Merlot and 44% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Deep ruby purple colored, medium to full bodied, the focused but somewhat subdued dark berry and currant fruit gives way to a layer of mineral and smooth soft tannins on the finish.  

RM 88 points.  

Viader Napa Valley Proprietary Red Blend 2001 

We also enjoyed this wine with the producer at An evening with Delia Viader back in late 2005 in Chicago. We then visited the property up on Howell Mountain during our Napa Howell Moutain Wine Experience - Viader back in 2008. This was my run away favorite of the evening although this might come across a bit sweet for some, it reflects a style that is most suited to my preference - bold, forward, expressive fruits with sweet nuances of oak, mocha and spice - very true to the Howell Mountain terrior. Interestingly, Viader, sitting at an elevation of 1200 on lower Howell Mountain, is designated Napa Valley appellation. The Howell Mountain appellation starts at that level which is the highest elevation point that the overnight and morning fog reaches. 

Dark ruby colored, full bodied, vibrant full forward blackberry fruits are accented by sweet chocolate mocha with tones of cedar and tobacco giving way to sweet spicy oak with lingering smooth silky tannins on the finish.

The blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Cabernet Franc.

 RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=10043

 

Thomas Hardy's Reynella McLaren Vale South Australian Vintage Port 1983

After dinner we retreated to Ryan and Michelle's where we had artisan cheeses and desserts with fresh fruit - Bellavitano with French Bread, artisan cupcakes, and Linda's rich chocolate mousse with fresh berries. To accompany these we opened a Hardy's McLaren Vale South Australian vintage port blended from old vines shiraz.  

Although the cork was very soft and spongy and the fill level was nearing the bottom of the tall neck, the color was ruby colored although it was slightly murky, yet it tasted fine - super ripe red and black berry flavors, hints of dark mocha, almost raisiny fig flavors, blackberry liquor tones, anise, a layer of soft sweet essence of brandy and a sweet aftertaste on the lingering finish.

RM 88 points.

19% alcohol. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=389343    

Château Gruaud Larose St Julien Bordeaux 1985

We pulled this '85 vintage Bordeaux from the cellar to enjoy over grilled sirloin steak dinner and to celebrate son Sean's birth year and birthday. This coupled with the occasion of having met the winemaker recently at the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, during their United States Tour stop in Chicago.

Dark ruby garnet colored with a bit of opacity - medium bodied, this opened with a huge fragrant floral bouquet that fills the mouth and nostrils and lingers for minutes. Earthy blackberry fruit is overshadowed by tones of tobacco leaf, truffle, mushroom and spice box, turning to slightly tart black cherry on the long floral full tannin laced finish.
RM90 points 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=20848

David Launay - Gruaud
Larose Winemaker at
Chicago UGCB tasting.

The Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tour was showcasing their 2010 vintage release in a tasting held at the Drake Hotel. A highlight of the event was meeting many of the winemakers and producers including Gruaud Larose winemaker David Launey. It was fun to ask him about the various vintage releases that we hold in our cellar. We hold this in abundance going back to the 1978 vintage including the 1981, '82, '83, '85, '86, '88 through '1990, from the nineties and the new millennium. Most notably, we still hold large format bottles of Gruaud Larose 1985 and 1990 from son's Sean and Alec's birth years. David said the 1985 is holding up well but is ready to drink now. It certainly was vibrant and expressive and showing no sign of diminution, but don't expect it to improve further with age.


 

 

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Chicago

Bordeaux Producers 2010 Release Tasting Chicago

Olivier Bernard -
Domaine Chevalier

The Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, currently on their United States Tour, came to Chicago this week. We attended their 2010 vintage release tasting held at the Drake Hotel in the grand ballroom. The UGCB, established in 1973, representing over 130 producers, developed and conducts wine-tasting programmes in France and abroad to educate about and promote the reputation and image of the Grands Crus of Bordeaux. This provides an special opportunity to meet the people involved in producing and/or promoting some of our favorite wines. For me, this was extra special to share my passion and this experience with son Ryan, who is developing a keen interest and discriminating palet for fine wine. For those that traveled so far to share with us their artwork, we say Merci et Bienvenue.

From January 18-26 the tour visits San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, New York and Washington in the US, and then on to Toronto and Montreal in Canada.

About 125 different producers served their wine to the trade during the day and then to a public tasting in the evening event sponsored by Binny's Beverage Depot, the leading wine merchant with over twenty-five stores throughout Chicagoland. Similar tastings were held in San Francisco, hosted by K&L Wines, in LA by Wally's, New York by Zachy's and in Washington hosted by Pearsons.

Our wine group consisted of Dr Dan, Ernie S., Lyle F, #1 son Ryan, Mike S., Mark C and myself. As has become our custom with the Grand Tour and other such gala tasting events, I picked the top wines I wanted to taste ahead of time and then we focused on those twenty-five or so selected wines during the evening. In truth, the evening would have been a success and I would have been happy to taste about ten select targeted wines.

Lyle, Dan with David Launay
Gruaud Larose Winemaker

For Dan, Ernie and me, the targeted twenty wines represent several of our favorite wines that we hold in our cellars that we collect and hence are most likely to purchase in this vintage release. They also represent wines we know well so that we can appreciate the new release against a historical understanding of the wines going back in some cases forty years to the 1970 vintage release or even earlier.

For Ryan, and his friends Mark and Mike, this gathering of a hundred different producers showing one horizontal release, was an excellent opportunity to experience and learn the styles and nuances of terrior of several different Bordeaux appellations and numerous leading producers from across the Bordeaux region.


Indeed, thirteen different appellations were represented with more than a dozen different producers representing Margaux, St Emilion and  Pessac-Leognan. There were at least ten producers from our favorites, St Julien and Pauillac, and another ten from Sauterne & Barsac. Any one of these would represent a horizontal tasting treat worthy of an evening in their own right.

David Launay - Gruaud
Larose Winemaker

The target wines mentioned above are represented by a half dozen different vintages in our cellars in many cases, and by more than a dozen different releases for several, and in some cases, as many as two dozen vintages. One such wine that we hold in abundance is Gruaud Larose which we still hold going back to the 1978 vintage including the years 1981, '82, '83, '85, '86, '88 through '1990 and into the nineties and the new millennium.We also still hold large format bottles of Gruaud Larose 1985 and 1990 for son's Sean and Alec's birthyears. (More on that below). So it was an honor and great fun to meet their winemaker David Launey and taste the new release in his presence. Being so familiar with this wine, we instantly recognized and commented on the change in style, to a vibrant, expressive and especially approachable wine at this young age. Much to the delight of the winemaker, David explained how they changed their technique in recent years to focus on the fruit resulting in a more approachable wine when young, for earlier drinking gratification.

A highlight of the evening was to see Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier and current President of the UGCB.   We've presented his wine at several of our wine group's gatherings including the grand tasting last summer, so we're all familiar with this wine. We were fortunate and honored to attend the gala Darioush - Domaine de Chevalier Gala Wine Dinner, a fabulous private dinner hosted by Olivier Berrnard and Darius & Shaptar Kaledi of Darioush Winery at Everest Restaurant in Chicago in the summer of 2004. It was fun to reminisce with him about that evening with him.  

Olivier Bernard with Ernie, Dan
and Ryan

Olivier shared a fascinating exposition  about the significant investment a producer makes in quality corks, and on the importance of  properly determining the 'top' and 'bottom' of the cork, thereby inserting the grain of the cork correctly so the proper end is 'wet', exposed to the wine, and the appropriate opposing end is left 'dry', exposed to the air. 

Another highlight was to taste Chateau Figeac St Emilion with son Ryan. This was one of his signature wines that we collected for his birthyear, 1982, which we've tasted together on many occasions including his wedding banquet. .We still hold this selection including large format bottles which we continue to enjoy on special occasions. Our large bottle collection of our kid's birthyear wines was featured in the Collecting section of Wine Spectator Magazine back in June, 2001. 

Ryan with Emeline Borie
of Grand Puy Lacoste

It was great fun and an honor to meet several other winemakers and executives of many of our favorite wines, including Nicolas Santier of Chateau Pichon Baron to get his perspective on the 1985 vintage large format Imperial we're still holding in our cellar to commemorate son Sean's birthyear. We had similar discussions about our cellar holdings dating back to the 80's with Gabriel Vialard Technical Director, Winemaker at Chateau Haut Bailly, Veronique Dausse, Managing Director Chateau Phelan Segur, Emeline Borie, who shares ownership and management duties at Grand Puy Lacoste with her father François-Xavier Borie co-owner and winemaker, and Figeac.

It was fun to see a strong showing from Chateau Coutet. Ernie got to share our recent tasting experience when he brought a 1959 vintage bottle to our autumn tasting dinner at Dr Dan's.  

Canon-Le-Gaffeliere
St Emilion Grand Cru

Perennial favorite wines that were excellent, showing exceedingly well and met or exceeded already high expectations were Pichon Lalande and Pichon Baron, from Pauillac, Gruaud Larose from St Julien, and Figeac from St Emilion. The surprise new discovery of the evening was Chateau Clinet from Pomerol. Special honorable mention also goes out to Canon-Le-Gaffeliere St Emilion Grand Cru. Ernie and Dan both also liked and purchased the Lynch Bages Pauillac.

Highlighted wines were standouts with exceptional wines of the evening shown with ..

Select tasting notes and observations to come. Meanwhile ... 

The wines we tasted are listed below with highlights in bold:

Margaux

• Château Brane-Cantenac 
• Château Giscours 
• Château Lascombes 
• Malescot-St-Exupery
• Château Rauzan-Ségla 

Ernie & Dan with Lea Zuger of
Malescot St Exupery

Pauillac

• Château Clerc Milon
• Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse
• Chateau Grand-Puy-Lacoste
• Château Lynch-Bages 
• Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
• Château Pichon-Longueville

Ryan with Veronique Dausse,
Managing Director,  Chateau Phelan Segur

Pessac-Léognan

• Domaine de Chevalier 
• Château Haut-Bailly 
• Château la Louvière
• Château Smith Haut-Lafitte 
• Château Pape Clément

Gabriel Vialard Technical Director,
Winemaker, Chateau Haut Bailly

Pomerol

• Château Clinet

Chateau Clinet -
Moniqe Montepini
discovery of the evening!

Saint Estephe

• Château Lafon-Rochet 
• Château Phélan Ségur 

Rick with Nicolas Santier
of Chateau Pichon Baron

Saint Julien

• Château Beychevelle 
• Château Gruaud Larose
• Château Lagrange 
• Château Langoa Barton 
• Château Léoville Barton 

Saint-Émilion Grand Cru

• Château Canon 
• Château Canon-la-Gaffelière
• Château Figeac
• Château la Dominique
• Château Pavie-Macquin
• Château Troplong Mondot 

Chateau Giuraud

Sauternes et Barsac

• Château Bastor-Lamontagne 
• Château Climens 
• Château Coutet
• Château de Fargues 
• Château de Rayne Vigneau 
• Château Doisy Daëne 
• Château Guiraud 
• Château la Tour Blanche 
• Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 
• Château Suduiraut

No shows? Two producers we specifically targeted and sought out that either were not in attendance or we did not find them - Chateau La Conseillante Pomerol and Chateau Larmande St Emilion. I have fond vivid memories of a case of Chateau La Conseillante 1983 that we enjoyed in the 1980's (before the internet and keeping blog posts or on-line tasting notes). We now realize we drank it too soon, or at the very least, should have saved a couple bottles to enjoy much later in the drinking window. I also remember first trying Chateau Larmande from that era as well. We are currently enjoying the 2005 vintage immensely which is drinking very nicely already. I'll strive to restrain myself and keep a few of these bottles for more mature drinking as we watch this wine age.   
  

Rick & Binny's Doug Jeffirs

Rick & Binny's Bill  Newton

More to come ...