Trio of Clarendon Hills labels - Astralis, Bakers Gully and Romas

Clarendon Hills Baker's Gully Shiraz 2003

After drinking the Clarendon Hills Astralis at the gala Pour Boys tomahawk ribeye wine dinner last weekend, for midweek meatloaf dinner I pull from the cellar another Clarendon Hills label, this aged single vineyard syrah-shiraz, Baker's Gully Syrah. At seventeen years, this bottle is past its prime and its time to drink while it is still within its drinking window. This is the final bottle of several that I obtained more than a dozen years ago. On my last tasting note of this label, three years ago, I wrote it was past its drinking window and starting to show its age. Ideally, I wouldn't finished consuming the remaining bottles rather than waiting three years to consume this final bottle as it has diminished linearly over that time. 

Clarendon Hills winery was founded in 1990 by Roman Bratasiuk in Clarendon, a town 40 kilometres (25 mi) south of Adelaide, part of the McLaren Vale Wine Region in South Australia. Bratasiuk, a viticulturalist as much as a winemaker, selected Clarendon as a base because of the significant number of old vine vineyards that were planted there, vineyards of 50 to 90 years.

The township of Clarendon was established in 1880 by European migrants, who brought with them pre-clonal, original French vine cuttings that they planted and propagated across the surrounding hilltops. Clarendon is home to hugely varied terrain with sandy, clay based soils in the lower elevated regions and contrasted with shattered shale and ironstone rich, quartz ridden soils in the highest areas. It is ideal growing conditions for traditional French Rhone varietals - Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre as well as Bordeaux varietals Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Clarendon Hills vineyards sources lie within the Clarendon, Blewitt Springs and Kangarilla districts. Using single vineyard designated fruits, Clarendon Hills seeks to express terroir driven varietal expression in its wines. 

Today, there are many single vineyard wines in Australia, but when Roman started in 1990, he was a pioneer in this approach. In the early 1990s, Roman started becoming known for his Grenache, but today he has an extensive portfolio of premium and ultra premium quality wines across 19 single vineyard cuvee labels. 

With the release of the 1994 vintage. Roman hired his first employee and rebranded his $30 Clarendon Hills Shiraz as 1994 Clarendon Hills Astralis. It was the first bottle in Australia to be priced at $100. It sold out and became his signature flagship label which remains to this day.  

Robert Parker has written that  "Clarendon Hills is one of the worlds elite wine estates".  In 1996,   Parker tasted the 1994 Astralis and wrote in his newsletter, Wine Advocate issue 110: "This is the hottest wine in Australian wine circles, as it came out ahead of two great vintages of Henschke and Penfolds’ Grange in a recent tasting. If readers can believe it, it is a bigger denser, more concentrated wine than the Grange," and in issue 108 (1996) he named Roman wine producer of the year. Thereafter, Astralis became a cult wine.

 

Two vintages of Astralis (1996 and 1994) were recently included within the 'Greatest 1000 Wines of all time 1727-2006" as a result of 15 international MW's collaborating with Scandinavian publisher FINE. 

 

Clarendon Hills was awarded New World Winery of the Year in 2006 by Wine Enthusiast. To date, Astralis is either the highest or equivocally scored as the best Australian Shiraz/Syrah based wine every year according to US publications Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate.

 

Today, Clarendon Hills produces broad portfolio of nineteen labels; eight Syrah, six Grenache, three Cabernet Sauvignon and one Merlot and Mourvedre wine. Roman exclusively produces single vineyard wines, all single vineyard, single varietal wines, produced from low yielding, dry grown old vines which are hand pruned, hand picked. All wines are aged in high quality French oak barriques.  

Clarendon Hills Baker's Gully Shiraz 2003

This Baker's Gully label was produced to be an entry level wine targeted at the restaurant trade which found the Clarendon Hills Old Vines range too pricey for some wine lists. This also provided an introduction to Clarendon Hills wines to a broader customer base.  

 

The Bakers Gully vineyard from which this label is sourced, is located approximately 1 km from the winery. Bratasiuk has been looking at this site for a few years, which consists of 10 year old dry grown Shiraz. The cropping levels are at the higher end of the quality status at 3 ½ tonnes per acre. Roman believes that over a period of 2-5 years the yields will be reduced to 2-2 ½ tonnes per acre. The soil profile is similar to those of another popular well known vineyard/label, Liandra, with sandy and clay soils which are typical of Blewitt Springs. The wine is aged in 15% new oak consisting of a mixture French Allier and Nevers.

Over the years we've had and still hold several labels from this producer including the flagship, premium Astralis that we consumed last weekend at our gala Pour Boys dinner. My actual favorite label from this producer, and perhaps most memorable drinking experiences is their Piggott Range Syrah. My experience is that those labels were always vastly exceeding this label. Lastly, we hold and recently tasted their Romas Grenache varietal label. It was underwhelming to the extent that I did not publish a review at that time. I'll wrap that up at the bottom of this post.

At this writing, the Baker's Gully still holds its dark inky garnet color and full bodied concentrated fruits, but a slight earthy leathery funk has set in with notes of a slight burnt note that was described a decade ago but a fellow cellartracker reviewer, offset by a raisin tones and a bit of a cognac alcohol heat tone. Satisfactory sipping as it nears end of life. 

RM 86 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=161636

Clarendon Hills Romas Clarendon Grenache 2007

Last week I opened this Clarendon Hills Romas Vineyard Grenache. This is Clarendon Hill's top Grenache, sourced from the Romas Vineyard, which sits in the tenderloin/best part of the more famous Blewitt Springs Vineyard.

The vineyard was planted in 1920 with the 'Romas Grenache' in the steepest, most elevated section. What makes this site special is its elevation of almost 1000 ft and its proximity to the ocean, which sits only a few miles away.  The hillside site in some places reaches above a +40˚ slope gradient where the old vines struggle to survive on a steep rock hill face with yields a microscopic 1.2 ton to the acre.The elevation and slope combined with the proximity to the ocean results in a cooler-climate site and not prone to producing the ‘jammy’, ‘porty’ styles of Aussie Grenache so popular from the broader area, rather, this wine is more like wines from the north side of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. 

This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied with strong nose of cherry liqueur, ultra ripe raisiny berry and strawberry fruits are accented with an offsetting medicinal glycerin and high alcohol tone, with notes of oak, clove and mineral.

RM 84 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=933956

https://clarendonhills.com.au/

 

Special wines for Family gathering ...

Special wines for Family gathering ... 

On the eve of the wake memorial service for step-father Keith, family arrive from both coasts for a week of family events, a funeral and a wedding. Sister Jan and her family arrived from SoCal, son Alec and Vivianna from NYC. 

We gathered at our house and had a somewhat poignant gala reunion with dinner of grilled steak fajitas, fresh fruit, artisan cheeses, and wines. 

McNees Conrad Clan

I invited Bro-in-law Bill to select wines from the cellar and he asked for some single varietal wines and the flight was on. I pulled a selection of family oriented wines from Spring Valley Vineyards in Walla Walla. We visited the tasting room and picturesque vineyards in during our Walla Walla Wine Experience 2018. Out at the vineyards site we met grower producer Dean Derby. 

As I have featured numerous times in these pages, the Spring Valley portfolio is branded with labels each named for an ancestor going back three generations. Several of the labels are single varietal specific wines, perfect for the occasion and Bills request.

We started with a Napa Valley Petite Sirah, followed by Spring Valley Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, then a Merlot based Bordeaux Blend before moving on to more adventurous labels. 

I wrote earlier this week about the commemoration to Keith Lorentzen and Robert Craig and our wine selections based on visits together to the various wineries during our Napa trips over the years. 

We pulled a Robert Craig Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon from the 2006 vintage, that we tasted with Jan and Bill during our private tour and tasting at the estate winery high atop Howell Mountain back in 2008. Following that, we opened another Howell Mountain Cabernet from Ladera which we also visited together during that trip. 

In recognition of our trip to France a year ago with Alec and Vivianna, we opened a Rhone varietal Grenache, but from the notable Australian producer Clarendon Hills.  

 The flight:

Katherine Corkrum Cabernet Franc 2011

Sharilee (Corkrum) Petite Verdot 2012

Uriah Red Blend 2010

Robert Craig Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 

Clarendon Hills Romas Grenache 2007 

Long Meadows Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2017 

Stay tuned as the festivities of the week play out we unwindwine many more wines.

 

BBQ Ribs and Syrah Syrah

BBQ Ribs and Syrah Syrah - Clarendon Hills Piggott Range and Marquis Philips '9'

The family gathered for son Ryan's birthday and Linda served Salmon and BBQ Ribs with buttered potatoes, asparagus and baked beans. Ryan and I went down in the cellar and he picked out two wines he wanted to try as an accompaniment.

With the BBQ ribs, son Ryan chose from our cellar two Australian Mclaren Vale Shiraz' - a Clarendon Hills Piggott Range and a Marquis Phillips '9' - both from the 2004 vintage.

Clarendon Hills Piggott Range Shiraz 2004

As written in my earlier tasting, this luscious Australian Syrah was given a 96 point rating by Robert Parker, stating "A superstar effort, it reveals off-the-chart richness, complexity and intensity. Floral-scented, exhibiting a distinctive minerality along with wonderful blackberry and cassis fruit, and a hint of wood. The mid-palate and finish are both long, textured and intense. It needs 2-3 years of bottle age and should keep for a minimum of 2 decades."

This winery Clarendon Hills is the namesake of the town and area around Clarendon which was established in 1845. Many of the vineyards surrounding the winery are over seventy years old; the gnarly and twisted bush vines are dry farmed and the grapes are hand picked. The soil profiles of each vineyard are very different with the Piggott Range known for the rock and shale. This is a hillside vineyard planted in the 1960's adjacent to the Onkaparinga Valley. The soil there is notable by it's absence rather predominant with solid rock and shale torturing the vine roots to reach deep for nutrients to survive. Low yields rarely exceeding two tonnes/acre produce deeply rich fruit with firm structure and tannins. 

 
Consistent with earlier notes, this exhibited a rich dark purple color, full bodied, and full smooth polished aromas and flavors of raspberries, blueberry, blueberries and smoked meat with notes of spice and floral elements with hints of oak with nicely integrated silky tannins on the lingering finish. However, the fruit was more subdued and a bit leaner than the full throttle profile of previous experience a few years ago.

This exhibited a rich dark purple color, full bodied, and full smooth polished aromas and flavors of raspberries, blueberry, blueberries and smoked meat with notes of spice and floral elements with hints of oak with nicely integrated silky tannins on the lingering finish.

It seems with this latest tasting of this label, the fruit seems more ripe or extracted so as to be a bit more raisiny with a subtle tone of graphite or a metallic note - perhaps or most likely attributable to aging at this stage of life - fifteen years of age. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=153424

http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2012/08/clarendon-hills-clarendon-piggott-range.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/10/cityscape-syrah-zin-bbq-ribs-wine.html

Marquis Phillips '9' McLaren Vale Shiraz 2004

Our Cellartracker records show we still hold almost four cases of this label from seven different vintages.

From previous tastings of this release I wrote: "This is huge full bodied, deep dark inky color. Almost overpowering forward over ripe black berry, raisin, blue berry fruits, hints of caramel, vanilla, glycerin and cedar. Firm, full chewy unctuous tongue coating tannins that reveal more blueberry, vanilla, mocha on a long alcohol finish. Begs for bar-b-que or like food."

Similar to the 2004 Piggott Range Shiraz above, this too is starting to show its age and lose some of the vibrancy of its fruit. At fifteen years of age this is starting to show a bit of heat from the alcohol as this starts to wane and pass its prime drinking window.



RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=144787

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/05/marquis-philips-mclaren-vale-shiraz-2004.html

Varied vintage wine flight complements beef brisket dinner

Varied vintage wine flight complements beef brisket dinner

For an impromptu post Thanksgiving dinner, we hosted Dr Dan and Linda over for beef brisket and a broad flight of accompanying wines. This was our first get-together since our Napa Sonoma Wine Experience. One of the highlights of our Napa trip was the barrel tasting in the caves at the Del Dotto estate in Rutherford. Our cases of wine purchased during that trip are shipping this week so we featured a couple of Del Dotto Napa Bordeaux varietals to commemorate that tasting, and to make room for the Del Dotto due to arrive this week.

We enjoyed a broad flight of five wines that maintained a consistent theme of bold, bright expressive tangy spice fruits accented by cedar and eucalyptus notes that perfectly matched the tangy barbecue dinner, and pecan and pumpkin pie desserts. The progressive flight built in intensity, then complexity, then closing on the consistent harmonious theme.

We started the evening with Domaine Serene Evensted Reserve with artisan cheeses and transitioning to opening with the smoked beef brisket. As we got into the medley of Original, Sweet, and Spicy barbecue sauces, we drank a big  concentrated spicy Clarendon Hills Bakers Gully Shiraz. We following with a spicy Del Dotto Cabernet Franc, a perfect transition from the barbecue to rest of the accompaniments and transition to the dessert course. Next we served a Del Dotto "David", signature flagship and namesake wine of the producer. Finally, we closed out with an aged vintage Silver Oak to match the signature oak profile with the pronounced spicy cedar notes of the David.

Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir 2005

This was the initial vintage of this wine that we discovered eventually culminating in this being one of our favorite Pinots that we keep in the cellar for suitable pairing and enjoyable casual sipping.

Dark garnet opaque color, medium bodied, black berry, black raspberry and black cherry fruits with notes of violet, dusty rose, hints of earthy leather, spice, clove and whisper of white pepper, medium to tart acidity, moderate tannins on the medium finish. Still holding at a dozen years but slight bricking on the edges indicates this is at the end of just beyond its prime drinking window and will continue to decline here forward.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=373020


Clarendon Hills Baker's Gully Shiraz 2003

Its hard to believe its been a half dozen years since we last opened this label when I wrote this tasting note that still holds true. While this is past its prime and starting to show its age, it is still drinking very well; "Dark garnet inky color, full bodied, concentrated thick chewy, almost coating the tongue - forward black and blue fruits, ripe black raspberry turns to a tone of spice, hint of cedar and kirsch with a slight metallic/mineral undertone - ends with a full, moderate soft chewy tannin finish."

RM 91 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=161636

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2002

Del Dotto were one of the first producers to bottle Cabernet Franc as a standalone bottling. This is a great wine to keep on hand for special pairing with food highlighting the distinctive characteristics of this varietal.

Like the other wines tasted, this one too at fifteen year is aging very nicely and still holding well within its drinking window. Consistent with earlier tasting notes, dark garnet color, full bodied, bright cinnamon spice, raspberry, hint of cedar and mocha on a big, long silky smooth tannin finish.

RM 92

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19187



 Del Dotto "The David" Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2002

On initial opening, this was closed and muted, lackluster in all respects, then after about a half hour it seem to explode with a bright expressive nose and burst of fruit and spice flavors. The  tones of eucalyptus and cedar almost made one's eyes water they were so pronounced from the glass.

Consistent with my tasting notes five years ago, now in its fifteenth year, this was still vibrant and lively but will likely not improve further with age. Dark garnet colored, full bodied and bold, complex and concentrated, the Rutherford fruit shows through as the expressive full forward black berry and black cherry fruits predominating with accents of cassis, spice box and Mayacamas cedar / eucalyptus tones. That Del Dotto craftsmanship of layered oak and hints of mocha are apparent on a long soft, plush, layered fine tannin finish.

RM 93 points.

Robert Parker gave this 94 points in his 02/05 review of this wine when he wrote: "The flagship wine, the 2002 David, is a 400-case blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and 19% Cabernet Franc. The wine has tremendous density and a gorgeously perfumed nose of cedar, spice box, black cherries, and cassis. Opaquely colored, deeply flavored, and rich, with chocolatey ,currant flavors, a savory texture, and a persistent palate, it will drink well for 7-8 years."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=74222

Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1989

As the third label from this legendary producer, following the flagship Bonny's Vineyard that was discontinued in the early nineties, then the Napa label, the Alexander Valley bottling shows amazing longevity and staying power. Few people hold this wine for three decades but we enjoy it new and aged.

This bottle actually showed and tasted better than my earlier review a couple years ago. Like the other wines, this one showed the same consistent style and profile as with my earlier tasting notes, when I wrote, "At twenty six years, this was showing its age in the rust brickish color showing on the edges. Muted upon opening, the expressive signature layers of 'silver' oak emerged and amplified over the course of the evening. The slightly astringent acidic black berry fruit was punctuated by a layer of leather, earthy tobacco leaf and black tea before giving way to the layer of oak that permeated the finish. This was a special bottle that showed its heritage and terroir well."

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=41259

Notable too is that Dr Dan brought two exquisite bottles for our dinner - Joseph Phelps Backus 2010 and a Sea Smoke Sea Spray 2012, anticipating a grilled steak dinner, which was the original plan. We cellared these and we'll enjoy them together at a future tasting dinner.

Cityscape Syrah Zin BBQ Ribs Wine Dinner 2015

2015 Cityscape Wine on the deck Features Syrah Zinfandel with BBQ Ribs Dinner

Our 'pour boys' wine group dinner was hosted by Lyle and Terry for their third wine night on the deck with cityscape views.

The theme for the evening was set for Syrah and Zinfandel to accompany their bar-b-cue rib dinner preparation. Their west loop residence features an extraordinary deck with cityscape views of the Willis (Sears) Tower (looming in background as shown left) and the west loop neighborhood.

The spectacular mid-September evening provided a perfect clear cloudless sky and comfortable evening. This was a replay of the success of last years event of the same theme. As usual, like the previous two years, Terry and prepared an wonderful dinner ideally suited for the wine theme - bar-b-cue ribs, potatoes, green beans, salad, cornbread, corn, followed by home-made profiteroles with ice cream, chocolate and caramel sauces.

Before dinner there was a selection of artisan cheeses, shrimp, grilled scallops, dips, nuts and olive trays. These complimented several champagne, sparkling and other white wine selections.

The main dinner wine flight ... (pictured below):

 

As usual we went through our ritual of placing the flight tasting order based on the anticipated weight, sweetness and complexity of the wines. Once set, the wines are opened and tasted to calibrate their appropriate tasting order. For me, this is almost the highlight of such evenings, determining the tasting order, but also testing knowledge and perceptions of the wines and vintages and their respective tasting profiles. As usual we had the basic order generally correct, but made a few modifications based on the tasting results. Shown above is the original expected order. 

Surprisingly, as a result of the tasting, the Killikanoon Oracle moved to the farthest right most position - signifying it as being the biggest and most complex wine, subsequently to be tasted last, so as to overpower a 'lesser' (lighter, less complex) wine. This was remarkable considering the previous tasting experiences of the other four 'big syrahs'.

Surprisingly, the Chateau Tanunda 100 year old vines Shiraz moved a couple places to the left although it compared favorably with the others. 

The wine flight in tasting order:

Domaine Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet 1999

Niner Wine Estate Boot Jack Ranch Paso Robles Syrah 2006

Robert Biale Black Chicken Napa Valley Zinfandel 2011

Regusci Napa Valley Stags Leap District Zinfandel 2010

Outpost Napa Valley Howell Mountain Zinfandel 2012

The Big Shiraz flight ...

Two Hands  Bella's Garden Barossa Shiraz 2012

Chateau Tanunda 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz 2008

Clarendon Hills  Astralas Shiraz 2007

Clarendon Hills Piggot Ranges Shiraz 2004 

Killikanoon Clare Valley Oracle Shiraz 2004

And after dinner with dessert and for casual sipping:

Antoine Alard Chateau Theulet Monbazzilac 1998
Chateau Breustet Saunterne Bordeaux 2001
Grahams Vintage Port 1991, 2000

The Zinfandel flight also included the Niner Paso Robles Syrah which exhibited a profile more aligned with those wines. The Regusci and Biale compared similarly while, not surprisingly, the Outpost stood out with its Howell Mountain terroir showing bigger forward mountain fruit with that classic bramble tight firmness with a creosote anise layer. 

The standout of the evening for me was the Killikanoon Oracle, which I expected to show well as it is one of my favorite wines. It showed dark inky purple, intense, rich, thick, full bodied, forward fruit of blueberry, ripe plum and blackberry, violet floral, and a hint of anise on the finish.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=234312

Big Aussie Syrah flight ...

I brought the Oracle to compare in a mini-horizontal 2004 against the Clarendon Hills Piggott Range Clarendon Syrah which I expected to mirror the profile but perhaps exhibit even bigger, more forward firm concentrated fruits, which it did, but less so than the Oracle.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=153424

The Piggot Range exhibited a rich dark purple color, full bodied, and full smooth polished aromas and flavors of raspberries, blueberry, blueberries and smoked meat with notes of spice and floral elements with hints of oak with nicely integrated silky tannins on the lingering finish. It was more lean than the full throttle thick rich version I tasted a couple vintages back. It's certainly ready to drink, and doesn't appear it will improve any with age.. probably certainly at its apex and needs to be consumed .. but I'd say no need to hurry .. has a couple years left ....

Dan brought the ultra-premium Clarendon Hills Astralis also provided an interesting comparison between the two Clarendon Hills' labels since they no doubt contain fruit sourced from the same sites.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=94812

Ernie brought Chateau Tanunda from his cellar. I've written herein about us capturing nine OWC three packs of this wine - the entire allocation of this wine for midwest America during the Wine Spectator Grand Tour a few years ago. This wine continues to be a staple of our big syrah tastings that we all enjoy. 

Chateau Tanunda "The Chateau" 100 Year Old Vines Eden Valley Barossa Shiraz

We discovered this wine at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour in Chicago when it was being poured by Chateau Tanunda's Dagmar O'Neill. Only 100 cases were produced. We orchestrated a purchase of nine three packs in OWC's (shown below) which we split amongst the 'pour boys' wine team, pictured below.

The Barossa is home to some of the world’s oldest Shiraz vines and the grapes for this wine come from hundred year old vines from a high altitude, one acre single vineyard in the Eden Valley.

The 'pour boys' sighted at WS
Grand Tour

Full bodied, complex, concentrated, full lingering tannins predominate the dense, black and blue berry fruits with hints of licorice, plum, spice and spicy oak.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=937673

http://www.chateautanunda.com/

Grahams Vintage Port 1991, 2000

 

Lyle was concerned that his beloved Grahams Vintage Port 1991 was diminished and entering the later stage of its drinking window. He acquired a case of this wine and has been enjoying it over the decades but was concerned about its recent change in its profile. The consensus of the group was that is was fine, aging normally and gracefully, simply showing it natural aging maturation. We're all getting older! 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=21593

Clarendon Hills Astralis Shiraz 2005

Clarendon Hills Astralis McLaren Vale Shiraz 2005

Son Ryan opened this to celebrate the first week in their new home and his first day on the new job. And he invited Dad over for a taste. While this is the flagship of the extensive  Clarendon Hills line which includes eight different Shiraz labels, I prefer the style of their Piggott Range more. This has more of the tasting profile of the incredible Tanunda 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz we tasted last weekend, not surprising, since this too is sourced from old vines, from their first vineyard planted in 1920. Like the Tanunda, Astralis has limited production of only 150 cases.

At a release and market price of $180, this is in the super ultra-premium stratosphere, even more than the Tanunda at a release price of $125. This is a classic example where taste is in the eyes of the beholder and all that matters is one's personal pallet preference. I much prefer any one of several of my favorite Shiraz labels that are all in the $70 to $90 range and a select few at even less. Of course, as I often write in this blog, the thrill of the hunt and ultimate quest is to find that high QPR (Quality Price Ratio) wine that offers the same satisfaction at a fraction of the (premium) price.

This is the first bottle we have tasted from a case Ryan purchased and split with me recently. As part of its premium price-point, Astralis (like the Tanunda) comes with premium packaging in its own branded OWC, Original Wood Case (pictured left).

McLaren Vale is in south central Australia on the north-west of the Fleurieu Peninsula about 25 miles south of Adelaide. It is one of the oldest and highly regarded wine producing areas in the country. It was granted its appellation status, in Australia known as GI or Geographical Indication in 1997.

The climatic and geographical diversity of McLaren Vale is suitable for a wide array of grape varieties which are grown there including Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache and Mourvedre, which, together with Shiraz, make up some of the most acclaimed 'GSM' blends. Other varietals grown in the region in lesser amounts are Merlot, Zinfandel, Tempranillo,  Sangiovese and Viognier.
 
McLaren Vale is also the source of white wine varietals, most notably Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Shiraz leads the region's list of award-winning wines with the best wines coming from very old vines, some planted more than 100 years ago.

This wine got huge reviews and scores from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (99 points) and Wine Spectator (96 points) and  Stephen Tanzer's IWC (95 points). Either our bottle was slightly tainted (which I don't believe), the cork showed ever so slight signs of seepage (shown right), or, at nine years old it is in a somewhat closed period in its aging profile. I found it a bit closed and its aromatics suppressed. Never-the-less, this is a big unctuous, tongue-coating complex wine, deep dark inky purple colored wine with layers of concentrated ripe black and blue berry fruits with a layer of graphite and mineral, which in my opinion detracts from the fruit and other complementary tones of expresso, tobacco and spice box, leading to a smooth silky polished tannin lingering finish. It did not seem to have a firm structure and backbone built for longer term aging.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=421401

http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/home.aspx

OTBN 2013

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2013

Its hard to believe a year has passed but its that time again - OTBN - Open That Bottle Night. With the inclusion of the next generation, our group grew from twelve to 28 resulting in an extraordinary collection and selection of wines that offered something for everyone. There were some new discoveries, a couple disappointments and some exceptional wines. Once again, OTBN - Open That Bottle Night provided great fun, food, friends and family, and of course, great wine in our OTBN 2013. Its hard to believe we surpassed the extravaganza of OTBN 2012. Also see our feature from OTBN 2011.

If you're new to OTBN, or to this blog, here's the story. Credit (or blame) for this annual wine bachanalia goes to Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal. OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, was conceived for those that have a special bottle of wine or champagne hidden away being saved for a special occasion that for whatever reason hasn't happened.  Every year since 2000, on the last Saturday night in February, Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) has been celebrated - the time to uncork and enjoy that cherished but here-to-for elusive bottle. OTBN was conceived by Gaiter and Brecher to say, what the heck, go for it, Open That Bottle (to)Night. They realized they weren't alone - having that special bottle set aside for an occasion that just never happens. On this night, you don't need an excuse or a reason - just do it! Take advantage of OTBN to open that bottle and enjoy it! Enjoy it by yourself, or better yet, enjoy it with someone special, or even better, with a group of special friends. Have everyone bring such a bottle and let the story telling begin, because amazingly, every OTBN bottle has a story or some meaning, or not. What the heck, Open That Bottle (To) Night!. Let the fun begin. 

  
The increased number of wines provided wine flights in their own right of Bordeaux, Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, and Australian Shiraz. There was also a selection of other Europeans and a medley from Central California.

Once again, Linda distinguished her hostess and hospitality skills by preparing a superb wine accompaniment dinner of beef tenderloin, pasta with grilled Italian Sausage, twice baked potatoes, green beans, corn casserole, and a dinner salad. Bev, Dan and Terry all brought a broad selection of cheeses, mixed nuts and berries. Gloria brough a 'flight' of chocolates of all cocoa percentage levels to pair with the various red wines. Ryan brought fresh shrimp cocktail, Cathy and Elise brought chocolate mousse, and I'm sure I regretably missed someone and their contribution.

But most notably, the evening was devoted to the fruits of the vine. Everyone outdid themselves with their wines selections - thanks for participating. 

The friends.... the wines: 

Some of the tasting highlights are posted.  

Ernie brought four Bordeaux - Chateaus Clinet 2008, Haut Gravet 2000,
Chateau Palmer 2006 and Lafon Rochet 1996.
The '08 Clinet was recommended by the Producer at the UGCB Tour recently and Ernie managed to obtain one, and then to share! Thanks Ernie.
  

Château Clinet Pomerol Bordeaux 2008

Ruby color, medium-full bodied, smooth, balanced, floral, blackberry and black raspberry fruits with hints of cassis and mocha, earthy leather, tea, and touch of spice on a polished moderate finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=678473

http://www.chateauclinet.com/uk/index.html

Chateau Palmer Margaux Bordeaux 2006

From the center of the Margaux appellation, this is the first of the great 'super second' producers, in this case, second only to the classic first growth Chateau Margaux. These classic wines have the potential to age for at least two decades in an average vintage and up to five in a great vintage, hence its easy to drink these wines too young but a great treat to watch them age by tasting a vintage over the years. 

The '06 was somewhat closed upon opening through two hours after decanting, showing medium to full body and a subtle floral nose with dark fruits of black cherries and blackberries with tones of subdued dark chocolate, tobacco, spice and sweet oak on a nicely polished and balanced moderate tannin finish; this very young wine needs at least another decade before it begins to display the full range of its true character and potential. Cabernet Sauvignon: 56%, Merlot: 44%

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=355934

http://www.chateau-palmer.com/

 

Bill shared a heartfelt story about the year 1993 and brought three twenty years old Napa Cabernet Sauvignons to commemorate the year - Chateau Montelena, Grace Family Vineyard 29, Robert Mondavi Private Reserve and a Justin Isosceles 2000. The Grace may have been my top choice of the evening - certainly was short list favorite.. 

Grace Vineyards 29 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1993 

Inky purple color, medium-full bodied, smooth polished, complex black berry, black cherry fruits accented by layer of mocha with hints of tea, spice, oak, flint and smoke on a silky smooth tannin lingering finish. Surprising life in this 25 year old showing now signs of diminishing. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=291433

http://www.vineyard29.com/wines_29_cab_1993.html

Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve 1993

Bill's notes from earlier tasting. Medium garnet color, very restrained nose. Took about two hours for this to open up. Upon popping the cork, this showed signs of being well past prime. Seemed carmelized and thin although the color showed no bricking. Between 90 and 120 minutes, this opened to reveal anise, mocha and graphite and some remaining tannins.

WCC 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=97829

 

Ryan following in footsteps brought two aged Bordeaux from the early eighties,
Canon-la-Gaffeliere 1983 and Grand Puy Ducasse 1984, and I pitched in a 1966 Suduiraut
Grand Cru Classe Sauternes.

Following our recent gala tasting of these wines at the UGCB Tour of the 2010 vintage release, Ryan procured the Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere St Emiilon 1983 to commemorate Michelle's birthyear and the occasion of them expecting their first child! For a near vintage comparison test, he brought the Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse Pauillac 1984, a challenging vintage, certainly not ageworthy like the '83. Regretably these bottles were beyond suitable drinking with their fruits having given way to leather and wood elements. Initial funk on opening did give way but the fruit never revealed itself over the ensuing days.

 Eric brought a collection of top flight bottles, Kaesler Old Bastard Shiraz, Dom Perignon and Hollywood & Vine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. 

mazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf

mazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf

Amazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf

Amazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf

Amazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf

Hollywood & Vine Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

Named for the address of the vineyard property purchased by this tandem of Hollywood entertainment industry executives, this small production hand crafted cabernet is a big bruiser fitting its oversize heavy almost magnum like bottle.

Nicely balanced and polished, dark purple color and full bodied with full forward black berry, black currant and spicy oak flavors with a layer of mocha, tea and hint of cassis on a lingering smooth moderate tannin finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=159041

http://www.hollywoodandvinewine.com/

Spottswoode Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Served from Magnum. Lighter and more subdued than I expected - medium bodied, smooth and well balanced, hints of leather and tobacco on the nose, black berry and black cherry fruits, moderate, soft tannins on the finish. Holding its own for the age, perhaps due to the magnum, but not overly flavorful or structured. An expensive bottle for a grand occasion did live up to expectations, although was not flawed or diminished, just not impressive. 

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=25904

Lyle brought a aged Dow Vintage Port 1977
and a Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2000. 
Lyle had the runaway best wine story of the evening that took everyone by surprise, no one saw it coming!  

 

Mark C brought two Eden Valley Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignons 2005, 2009.
Cabs from Paso Robles? - Undoubtedly the surprise discoveries of the evening!

Eden Canyon Paso Robles “Estate” Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

This was the surprise discovery of the evening. Cabernet from Paso Robles? Here's one. The producer calls this "The Chocolate Vintage".  Medium body, black berry and black cherry fruits with hints of chocolate, cassis and a vanilla on a moderate, smooth tannin finish. The 2009 was nice too but not as polished, full bodied or flavorful, but still respectable, exceeding expectations with a 88 score.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=640714 

http://www.edencanyon.com/

 Justin brought a double magnum of James Tobin Paso Robles Rock--Roll Syrah 2007 signed by the winemaker. We had just announced that 'size counts' before Jared arrived late - did he have a mole?

 

Dan brought Sea Smoke Gratis Chardonnay, Valduero Gran Reserva and Clarendon Hills Astralis 

Rare sighting, the four amigos,
Eric, Rick, Bob & Dan.

Bob brought a duo of Napa Cabernets from Frog's Leap and Silver Oak and The Prisoner. 

Sara brought two Aussie Shiraz's, Shotfire and Hope.

'The house / (host)' served a pair of magnums from Napa Valley, Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 and Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc, a vintage 1966 Suduiraut Grand Cru Classe Sauternes Bordeaux, a Kracher TBA '6' 1998 and a pair of Italian sparklers.

Chateau Suduiraut Grand Cru Classe Sauternes Bordeaux 1966

Still life in this 45 year old but notably past its prime and reaching the last chapter of its drinking window. Decent cork and acceptable fill level - further indications of the suitability of our cellar for long term aging. A blend of Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc.Dark caramel or weak tea in colour. Still flavorful but lacking that apricot nectar sweetness, rather, more weak tea and moderate almond nut flavor with very subdued honey and hints of citrus.

RM 87

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=159298

http://www.suduiraut.com/  

Kracher Zwischen Den Seen Welschriesling Trockenbeereneauslese #6 1998 

Dark orange caramel tea colored, full bodied, essence of thick chewy unctuous apricot nector, hint of honey and almond on the finish, nicely balance of acidity and sweetness adds to length. At fifteen years this  is still in its prime.

RM 92 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=27074

http://www.kracher.at/en/ 

Post Mortem - Unfortunate, bottles that were past their time, or unsuitable specimens:

• Dow Vintage Port 1977 
• Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere 1983 
  
• Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse 1984

The wines by flight - 

Flight Sparklers

Flight White Varietals

Duckhorn Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009

Nice starting wine to set the pallete. An honest unadulterated wine that best reflects the fruit. Straw colored, medium bodied, clean crisp easy drinking with subtle flavors of citrus, melon, hints of lychee, pear and touch of peach turning to soft tones of grapefruit and lime notes on the finish.

RM 89 Points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=878604

http://www.duckhorn.com/Accolades/Sauvignon-Blanc/2009-Napa-Valley-Sauvignon-Blanc

 Flight Paso Robles

Flight Southern European Reds

 

Flight Bordeaux Rouge

 Flight Northern California (Napa/Sonoma) Cabernets

Flight Australian Shiraz

What a great opportunity to compare the flagship wines of these two premiere Australian producers, Kaesler and Clarendon Hills. I wonder if a better comparison might be the Old Bastard against Clarendon Hill's Piggott Range which is one of the biggest Syrahs I've ever experienced. Kaesler says it needs fifteen years of cellaring and can be held for fifty. By their own admission, Clarendon Hills refer to Astralis as being more 'svelte' in its balance and 'restrained power with super finely integrated extract, light on its feet and majestic once in focus." When compared against the extraordinary 2001, its easy to see Astralis being over powered by the bigger bolder Old Bastard, perhaps by design. 


Kaesler Old Bastard Barossa Valley Shiraz 2001 

The 2001 growing season in the south central Australian Barossa Valley was the hottest since 1904 resulting in immense full forward flavors and 15% alcohol content in this brooding monster. Dark inky purple colored and full bodied. Thick chewy tongue coating blackberry, black raspberry, plum, blueberry, with mocha and spice complexity. Aromas of vanilla, coffee and charred oak offer added complexity. 

RM 95 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=8610

http://www.kaesler.com.au/html/

Amazingly svelte in its balance of varietal depth with restrained power and super finely integrated extract, it is light on its feet and majestic once in focus. Overriding harmony meets an anarchical expression of Australian classic syrah. Lifted florals dance with rich meats, coffee, cola, chocolate, pan forte, turkish delight, graphite, bitumen, cigar tobacco, black cardamom, good quality soy sauce and crushed rocks. It is dense, yet creamy smooth. - See more at: http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx#sthash.Vc4fLh1r.dpuf

Clarendeon Hills Astralis Shiraz 2004

The Astralis was medium to full bodied but more subdued than the big brooding Old Bastard. Dark purple colored it presented forward spicy blackberry and black raspberry ruits highlighted by a layer of cassis and hints of mocha and touch of vanilla. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=94812

http://www.clarendonhills.com.au/Wines/Syrah/Astralis.aspx

 Flight Desserts

 

 Picture Gallery - 

 

Lyle holding court - the story..

 

The Kracher TBA

Terry & Linda

How do you like that aged Sauternes?

Erin & Johnny and Jared,
Val and Ann

 

Elyse, Cathy, Ann, Erin

 

Johnny, Jared

 

Bill, Ryan, Mark.

 

Bill and Grace Vineyard 29

 Erin, Terry.

 The Forts

 

 Sean working the kitchen