Italian Village Wine Dinner

Italian Village Wine Dinner Features Two Classic Aged Vintage Release Labels

For an important business dinner we dined at Italian Village in the Chicago City Centre, our go to venue for such occasions. We had a private dining alcove, ideally suited for our business dinner. Wine Director, Jared Gelband (right w/ colleague Jeff L, touring the wine cellar), served up a classic pair of aged wines that perfectly matched our dinner selections, a eighteen year old legendary Super Tuscan Guado al Tasso from a classic vintage, and a thirteen year old Sangiovese, Vigna di Pianrosso. 

Count on the deep deep broad wine list of over 1200 labels to offer such a selection. What a treat! Two aged bottles drinking at their apex and capable of aging for another decade, if they would last that long.

Antinori Tenuta Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore 2000

This is one of my favorites, a classic premium label from a historic vintage. This was a memorable bottle ideally suited to our dinner entree selections, especially my Veal Marsala with its brown sauce and angel hair pasta.

While this is an Italian wine, its Super Tuscan blend is French Bordeaux varietals - 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and the remaining 10% Syrah with a mix of lesser amounts of Cabernet Franc and other red grape varieties.



Dark blackish garnet colored, medium full bodied, firm structure but elegant and nicely balanced;  forward blackberry and black cherry fruits accented by mocha, expresso, tobacco and spicy clove with tones of mineral on the lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

This got 93 points from Wine Spectator,
93 points from Stephen Tanzer.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=12750


Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona "Vigna di Pianrosso" Brunello di Montalcino 2004

We finished with Sangiovese to match our Italian entree selections. Once again, the depth of the IV cellar presented a fourteen year old vintage release.

Dark ruby colored, full bodied and structured yet approachable, intense forward black raspberry, black cherry and plum fruits, floral tones turning to earthy eather, dark spices, minerals turning to round smooth silky tannins on a long finish.


RM 92 points. 

The Pianrosso from proprietor Paolo Bianchini. Ciacci’s Pianrosso is an old-vines selection that spent 36 months in Slavonian oak.

92 points Wine Spectator
91 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
94 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=626465

https://italianvillage-chicago.com/

Italian Village Dinner features Amarone and Brunllo di Montalcina

Team Dinner at Italian Village features Amarone and Brunello di Montalcina

With my management team in town for planning meetings we ended the day with dinner at my usual host site, Italian Village.

As is customary, we dined in our usual private room so we could have an intimate working dinner. And. as usual, friend and Wine Director Jared Gelband selected a couple of ideal wines to complement our authentic Italian dinners.

Several of the group had the trio of vitello with three different preparations. I had my favorite, Veal Marsala entree with the brown mushroom sauce which is a perfect complement to the Amarone Volpolicella red wine.

For our starters and salad course had a Sangiovese based Brunello Di Montalcino from Caprili. As we moved to the entree course we drank an Amarone della Valpolicella from Giuseppe Lonardi.

Caprili Brunello di Montalcino 2013

I asked for a Sangiovese varietal wine which calls for Brunello di Montalcino. Jared served this Caprilli which paired well with our salad and  Anitposto courses.

Brunello di Montalcino is from the area surrounding the town of Montalcino which is located south of Florence in the Tuscany wine region. Brunello is the designation for wine produced with 100% Sangiovese varietal grape.

Since 1980, Brunello di Montalcino has been designated DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status, which refers to quality controls and guaranteed designation of origin. This is akin to the American AVA with regards to to place of origin, and the French AOC - Appellation Origin Controlee system which regulates quality. DOCG labelled wines are analyzed and tasted by government–licensed personnel before being bottled. To prevent later manipulation, DOCG wine bottles are sealed with a numbered governmental seal across the cap or cork.


This was garnet colored, medium bodied, lighter than I expected, slightly astringent with bright acidity, bright red fruits accented by notes of spice, minerals, leather dusty earthiness and hints of smoke with fine tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2607727
 

Giuseppe Lonardi Amarone della Valpolicella

Corte Lonardi is a small winery located in Marano, in the heart of Valpolicella. The owner, Silvia Lonardi is the daughter of founder and namesake Giuseppe Lonardi whose life was immersed in wine and cuisine, growing up in the vineyards and the family owned tavern.

Silvia’s great-grandfather Giuseppe, was a restaurateur, as was her grandfather Aldo. Giuseppe began producing wine in the early 80s with his friend and winemaker Roberto Ferrarini.

Today Silvia produces high-quality wines which reveal the terroir of the Valpolicella region and the soil of the Marano hills 1000 feet above sea level above the Marano di Valpolicella valley. Valpolicella is in the province of Verona, within the large Veneto region near Venice in northeastern Italy.

Amarone della Valpolicella, also known as Amarone for short, is a red wine blended from the Corvina (45–95%, of which up to 50% could be substituted with Corvinone), Rondinella (5–30%) and other approved red grape varieties (up to 25%). 

In Italian, the name Amarone literally means "the Great Bitter" which distinguished it from Recioto and Repasso wines produced in the same region, which tend to lighter and slightly sweeter in taste.

What distinguishes Amarone from other wines is that the grapes are partially dried for approximately  90 days before pressing, which results in higher degree of residual sweetness and lower acidity. The resulting wines allows long aging and have a distinctive flavor profile described as full, warm, velvety notes and notes of ripe fruit and woodland tones. Amarones are often consumed ten to fifteen years after harvest.

Volpolicella wines are designated DOCG status.

Giuseppe Lonardi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2011

This was bright deep garnet colored, full rich concentrated ripe sweet red fruits accented by notes of leather and tobacco leaf with hints of forest on the firm but polished finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2114460

http://www.lonardivini.it/wines/?lang=en

http://www.italianvillage-chicago.com/

Italian Village Chicago for Reliable Business Wine and Dine Experience

Italian Village Chicago for Reliable Business Wine and Dine Experience

For an important business partner dinner, we hosted dinner at our reliable go-to venue, Italian Village in Chicago. The Village has three different restaurants, each with its own kitchen and chef, each with its own ambiance and personality.

We dined in the 'Village' dining room upstairs at our regular table where our group selected six different entrees and all were excellent. We traversed a flight of three different Italian wines that perfectly complemented the courses of our dinner.

 Carpineto Poggio Sant' Enrico Toscana IGT Sangiovese 1999

At nineteen years of age, this is at the apex of its drinking window but not likely to improve with further cellaring, rather more likely to start to diminish from here forward. Great starting wine with our caprese and starters, dark, deep, blackish-ruby colored, full bodied with firm backbone of bold, intense black berry and ripe plum fruits, notes of black pepper, hints of smoke, leather and subtle vanilla with a long lingering supple tannin finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=101164
 

Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Sangiovese 2012 

For the salad courses, this was slightly lighter and more approachable for pleasant drinking, especially for those less feint at heart for big robust wines. This was dark garnet colored, subdued fruits of black cherry and black berry fruits accented by earthiness and tones of tobacco and brown spices with moderate tannins on the well behaved finish.

RM 90

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2631507

 Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero Nebbiolo 2008

This was an ideal finishing wine as it was quite expressive and vibrant. Bright dark garnet colored, full bodied, forward bright lively forward red berry fruits that jumped from the glass and excited the tongue, turning to full firm but manageable tannins with bright tangy acidity that projected the berry fruits on a long expressive full finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1315282

Normally, we'd meet and be attended to by good friend and Wine Director Jared Gelband who oversees the massive 15,000 bottle wine cellar that serves all three restaurants of Italian Village. Tonight he was consumed attending to a large party of forty in the Vivere wine dining restaurant to whom he served a selection of ten different wines (shown below).

https://italianvillage-chicago.com/

Murray's Cheese - and wine too

Cheese, Murray's Cheese ... and some wine too ...

Enjoying a get-away weekend with son Ryan and daughter-in-law Michelle, visiting son Alec in NYC, we dined at Murray's Cheese Bar in Greenwich Village, one of his favorite haunts. The eatery is a few doors down Bleecker Street, from the legendary cheese retailer and wholesaler. As in earlier adventures there, we left it to the 'Cheese Monger' to select our cheese flight - one of five and one of eight different cheeses or meats.

Each cheese meat combination is paired with a sauce, spread or associated delectable accompaniment such as a orange marmelaide or a pistachio paste, both shown below.

The presentation of the cheese plates by the Cheese Mavin servers was masterful, poetic, professional and informative, a performance deserving of more attention and respect and worthy of an ovation! Following the cheese meat plates came Mussels in white wine broth, grilled Kale sprouts, and Lamb meatballs in a tomato fennel sauce and feta cheese.

For pairing, we selected three wines from Murray's winelist, one white and two reds. For the white, there's always room for a bubbly, a sparkling wine, we selected Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant, a Chenin Blanc based wine from the Vouvray in the Loire Valley in Northern France.

Chenin Blanc is not normally associated with sparkling wine, the specialty and province of Champagne in France, rather the incredibly versatile grape is used across the range of dry whites, to semi-sweet to luscious sweet wines.

This version of sparkling wine is considerably less expensive than a Champagne of equivalent quality.

Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Cuvée Huet Brut 2010

This was light, straw colored, crisp and minerally with a bouquet and flavors of floral, peach, ripe pear and sweet spice giving way to almond and a layer of yeast that came across as a bit pasty that diminished the fruits.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1413192






Laurent Betton Saint-Joseph Syrah 2013, Rhone Valley, France

The tangy acid was a nice accompaniment to the hearty bold cheeses and meats.

Son Ryan favors and drinks a lot of these Northern Rhone Valley Syrahs. This was much lighter than those we are accustomed to drinking, from the Rhone Valley, or Syrahs we get from Australia or even California.

This was ruby colored, medium light bodied, crisp bright acidity with black berry fruits, tones of black pepper and a layer of graphite creosote with a tangy spicy finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2112330


La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino Sangiovese 2010, Tuscany, Italy 

This bigger bolder more complex and concentrated wine rounded out our flight with a different style and character that matched the boldest and most forward cheeses, and the meats in the tasting.

This was ideally paired with the Lamb meatballs in tomato fennel sauce. 

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium full bodied,  complex, concentrated layers of rather subdued dried blackberry and black cherry, tones of smoke, leather, tobacco and hints of cedar spicy oak and graphite on a smooth polished moderate tannin finish.

This was so good, we ordered a second bottle! 

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2104005

http://www.murrayscheesebar.com/

A highlight of the weekend was seeing Alec's new apartment with its spectacular views from Midtown to the financial district, shown below.

Murray Cheese Selection

Castello Banfi Producer Wine Dinner at Vivere Italian Village Chicago

Castello Banfi Wine Producer Dinner at Vivere Italian Village Chicago

We've written recently about Jared Gelband, the new wine director at Italian Village in Chicago, and his efforts to revitalize the historic cellar and wine program there. An element of the wine program is a series of wine dinners featuring storied wine producers. The inaugural wine dinner of the new era featured the American owned prolific Italian producer, Castello Banfi which translates to English Banfi Cellars.

Wine Director Jared Gelband
with Erin & Johnny Fort

Presenting the wines and representing Banfi was Lars Lecht, Director of Communications and wine ambassador, Castello Banfi (shown left).

Preparing the evening dinner were Executive Chef, James Giacometti and Sous Chef Kevin Lundy. Also in attendance to welcome guests and oversee operations was Italian Village third generation owner Gina Capitanini.

The dinner featured six courses, each paired with a Banfi wine selection - three red and three whites including a sparkling wine and a late harvest dessert wine.

First course - Cocomero -

Grilled Watermelon, sea salt flakes, cherry Heirloom tomato (grown on the urban rooftop garden atop the restaurant), baby frisee, black sesame seed vinagrette, fresh Buratta cheese and shaved radish.

The course wine accompaniment -

Castello Banfi Alta Langa Cuvée Aurora Rosé 2011

 Produced from 100% Pinot Noir fruit sourced exclusively in Banfi Estate vineyards located on the Piedmontese hilltops in the provinces of Cuneo, Asti and Alessandria.

Full bodied, darkish pink colour, silky smooth elegance with notes of toasted almond nut accented by smoke, apple, hints of citrus and whisper of vanilla.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2136742

RM 91 points. 

The second course - Capesante -

Iron eared Diver Sea Scallop, eggplant caponata, toasted hazelnuts, citrus froth. This was so good, any wine would have been a nice accompaniment. The crisp clean Pinot Grigio was wonderful.

The wine accompaniment -

Castello Banfi Pinot Grigio San Angelo Toscana IGT 2013

Straw colored, light bodied, lively acidity, dry, subdued modest flavors of lemon citrus fruits, wet stone, and lychee.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1825424



Third course - Pasta

Housemade tomato flavored half moon shaped pasta filled with braised pork shoulder, hand dipped ricotta cheese, Parmesan-Reggiano, rooftop grown cherry tomatos, purple basil. The sweetness of the sauce was a perfect balance to the acidity of the brilliant red wine.

Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino Sangiovese 2013 


100% Sangiovese - Banfi calls this their 'baby Brunello'. Ruby red colored, medium bodied, subdued black cherry fruits, bright acidity,  tones of leather and tobacco leaf with nice silky tannins on the moderate finish.


RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1961894



Fourth Course - Anatra

Pan seared Maple Leaf Farms Duck breast, Bourbon honey glaze, carrot mango spears, parsnip pur'ee, rooftop grown greens, lemon, extra virgin oil.

Castello Banfi Belnero Toscana IGT 2012

This wine discovery, a blend of Italian and Bordeaux varietals was one of the highlights of the evening. Unique blend of 85% Sangiovese with moderate amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Deep intense dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, sweet black cherry fruits with tones vanilla, leather, tobacco leaf and hint of expresso turning to nicely balanced smooth soft tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2260446

Fifth course - Agnello

Roasted loin of lamb, raspberry truffle jus, heirloom carrot, charred baby turnips. 

Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2010 

100% Estate grown Sangiovese.

Deep intense dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, subdued black cherry fruits, tones of leather, tobacco, anise and hints of floral, spice and vanilla.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1770395




Sixth course - Dolci

Meyer lemon, toasted almond bread pudding, lemon honey sorbet. This dessert was delicious and was a perfect accompaniment to the sweet late harvest dessert wine below.

Castello Banfi Florus Late Harvest Moscadello 2011


Golden colored, medium bodied, bright vibrant bouquet and flavors of sweet apricot, honeysuckle, tones of raisins, almonds and honey on full lingering unctuous finish.

RM 91 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1840229


http://www.banfiwines.com/

http://italianvillage-chicago.com/

Vivere dinner setting

 

Sous Chef Kevin Lundy and Executive Chef, James Giacometti.

Diners and blogger, Rick McNees and Linda

Vivere Diver Sea Scallop

Vivere Braised Pork cheese pasta

Vivere Duck Breast

Vivere Roasted Loin of Lamb

Celebration dinner features Progressive Red Flight

Celebration dinner features Progressive Red Flight

Following a gala bridal shower Linda gave for friends Bill and Beth's soon to be daughter-in-law Alyssa, they hosted a dinner with an extensive progressive wine flight. Dinner featured beef tenderloin, twice baked potatoes and hericot verts with prosciutto and dinner salad. Pre-dinner featured a selection of artisan cheeses. For the pre-dinner wine flight Bill opened with Freestone Sonoma County, then Sea Smoke Ten Pinot Noirs.

For a midi, transition from the Pinot's to the big Napa Cab's I brought a Fidelitas Optu Columbia Valley red blend. The Main course was highlighted by Diamond Creek Gravelly Meadow, followed by birth-year vintage wine for son and groom to be, Drew, Duckhorn Napa Cabernet. Following dinner with medley of chocolates, Dan opened a brooding a Brunello di Montalcino.

Freestone (Joseph Phelps) Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2011

Label from 2007 vintage from cellar.

I write often about how difficult it is to find a high QPR Pinot Noir at a lower price point. This is such a find. Bill posted his tasting notes for his hosted wines so I defer to his lead.

"This is usually our "go to" everyday Pinot and it never disappoints. A bit brighter on the fruit than is my preference but still has some earthiness to provide balance. Was a nice opener to the evening but was overwhelmed by the Sea Smoke 10 that followed."

WCC - 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1650014


Sea Smoke Ten Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2009

Bill and Dan love this wine and are both club members and get regular allocations. This is a classic example of that addage, the next best thing to having a great wine cellar is having a wine buddy with a great cellar! I enjoy an occasional Pinot Noir, especially in the summer with lighter food fare but generally trend to the Bordeaux varietals which predominate in our collection.

This was an elegant and polished pre-dinner wine, great witht the artisan cheeses. Bright vibrant cherry, dusty rose with hints of rhubarb and cranberry.

Bill's tasting notes from Cellartracker - "Full disclosure - I am a bigger fan of Sea Smokes Southing than I am 10. I usually find the 10 to be a bit hot and heavy on the alcohol. In retrospect, I likely have been drinking 10 too early. This was delicious. Full bodied, polished, full of ripe cherry and strawberry, balanced by earthy, smoky flavors. This pretty much overwhelmed the 2011 Freestone Pinot that preceded it. An elegant complement to a charcuterie tray to start the evening event."

WCC - 90 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1025981

Fidelitas Optu Columbia Valley Red Wine 2002

The name Fidelitas means "faithful, loyal, true". I thought this was an appropriate wine for celebrating an upcoming betrothal. The producer's mantra cry is "Fidelitas is faithful to Bordeaux grape varieties, loyal to modern craft winemaking techniques, and true to Washington State's Red Mountain terroir."

I remember attending a wine tasting at the local Binny's, the Chicagoland mega-merchant, now with over thirty stores that recently extended downstate to Central Illinois, and hearing a fellow taster rave about this wine. I research it and obtained a six pack from the producer. It was in its infancy then, 2002 being just the third release. 

Today, the current release is their 13th vintage of what is now known as Optu Red Mountain, a big, bold wine red blend. The brand has now grown to 18 red wines and two white wines: all Bordeaux-varietals, 90% sourced from Columbia Valley Red Mountain appellation, with the exception of some "lasting vineyard relationships that are too good to pass up", according to the producer.

The name OPTU appeared with the 2002 vintage, which as the producer recalls, was their most 'most exciting vintage by packaging standards, and the origin of the name OPTU.'  Says, Jess Zander, "I also happen to LOVE this vintage and was lucky enough to hoard some for several years.  A blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, and 9% Malbec.  I believe that this is the first wine we included some Red Mountain fruit with 10% of the make up coming from Red Mountain Vineyard.  We bumped the line up to a total of 6 products in this vintage, most notably with the introduction of Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon."

This was appropriately ordered as a transition from the Pinots to the bigger deeper Napa Cabs. Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, subdued blackberry with hints of blueberry and plum fruits, with tones of tobacco, tea and hints of medium-light oak, appropriately balanced with medium acidity and moderate, soft tannins.

RM 89 points.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=107171 

http://www.fidelitaswines.com/

Diamond Creek Gravelly Meadow Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

We visited the Diamond Creek Estate with Bill and Beth and the vineyard tour and tasting experience were clearly one the highlights of our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2011. The Gravelly Meadow vineyard is shown left.

When Bill presented this, I anticipated it would be at the apex of its tasting profile and it certainly seemed to be so. When he opened the bottle and poured a taste, the aromas exploded out of the glass with huge fruit and floral perfume. This was exceptionally full flavored and perfectly balanced, its complexity was  a harmonious symphony of flavors.

Bill's tasting notes from Cellartracker for this tasting - "I cannot imagine this being any better than it was last night and consistent with prior experience indicating that the 2001 Napa Cabs are undoubtedly in their prime right now. Deep, opaque, purple in the glass. Nose very much resembling a St. Estephe with herbal earthy notes. But this explodes on the palate with layer upon layer of dark cherry, blackberry, chocolate and mocha. Also detected some minerality reflecting the soil composition. This really fills the mouth and has a long, long lingering finish. Likely the hit of a gala dinner with friends Rick, Linda, Dan and Linda. Wish I had another bottle."

WCC - 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=28307

http://www.diamondcreekvineyards.com/


Duckhorn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1984

We've stopped at the Duckhorn Estate in northeast Napa Valley on many occasions during our Napa trips as it sits at the foot and entrance to Howell Mountain. Its an idyllic setting and also enjoyable tasting. 

To commemorate the day's proceedings, Bill opened this special birth year vintage release Napa Cab. At thirty plus years it showed remarkably well with amazing resilience - still wholly approachable showing the aging potential of hearty Napa Cabs from reputable producers, when cared for and cellared properly. This was a nice complement to the beef tenderloin, the black pepper laced potatoes and the after dinner dark chocolates.

Bill's tasting notes from Cellartracker -

While past prime, this wine is still interesting for someone who has experience with older wines. This still retains its indigo color but is showing some bricking. On the palate, while there's still some fruit present, leather, tobacco and cedar flavors are more apparent. Tannins have given way to glycerine. Still this was very approachable, reasonably priced, better than the last bottle. A fitting birth year wine in recognition of second sons impending wedding and the wedding shower given by friends Rick and Linda.

89 Points

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=42636

http://www.duckhorn.com/

Conti Costanti Brunello di Montalcino 2007

Dan brought this from his cellar. A fitting finish to the evening. True to the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, this is 100% Sangiovese.

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, complex black berry and black cherry turning to sage, mushroom and earthy forest floor with firm but nicely integrated tannins on the acidic finish.

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1334850

http://www.costanti.it/eng/storia_ieri_en.html