UGCB 2020 Vintage Release Tour Chicago 2023

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB) North American 2020 Vintage Release Tour Chicago Preview Tasting 2023 

The UGC Bordeaux (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)), annual release tour visited Chicago this week unveiling/showcasing their 2020 vintage release wines. The Union is the association of 130 members of the top premier estates from the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations. 

This year's North American tour visited Toronto, New York, Washington DC, Chicago, LA , Seattle and San Francisco. 

As in previous years, members of our 'Pour Boys' wine group (left) helped conduct the event in Chicago. 

This year, after a Covid disrupted alternate site last year at Chicago Union Station Grand Hall, which actually was delayed to June, as in years past, returned to the Drake Hotel in the magnificent grand Gold Coast Ballroom (shown below). 

The Pour Boys serve as volunteers, working with the hosts Mike Wangbickler, Kat and the Balzac Communications team, and the UGCB Bordeaux events team of Chloe Morvan and Marie Damouseau.

We help prepare the room and the wines, checking in trade registrants, and standing in for producers who faced travel or other disruptions, presenting and pouring their wines. 

We start early in the day unpacking and distributing the wines, carefully setting up each wine station for the arrival of the producers' and their representatives for presenting and pouring the wine during the afternoon session.

Several times over the years, several producers or their representatives were delayed in travel or had other disruptions and we were called in to service to pour their wines, hence we earned our moniker, the 'Pour Boys'.  This was our fourteenth year working this gala annual event.

As usual, close to a hundred producers were represented at the event that was attended by over five hundred members of the trade, merchants, hospitality and media.

As is their custom in the third week of January, this annual roadshow is a marathon trek across North America by the producers and their representatives offering wine professionals and oenophiles the chance to meet the Bordeaux principles, winemakers and commercial directors. 

As I've written in previous years, we appreciate the investment in time and effort expended by the producers and their brand ambassadors to visit Chicago. It provides a wonderful opportunity to meet them firsthand and discuss their perspectives on their brand, approach to crafting their style, their history, businesses, and their vintages including, of course, the current release.

Overcast skies and early morning snow
through windows of Gold Coast Ballroom

As collectors and holders of a not-insignificant collection of Bordeaux wines dating back four decades, we Pour Boys hold as many as several dozen or more vintages of some of these labels. Meeting the owners, family members, producer / winemaker / representatives of these great Chateaux is a great privilege and offers a collector the chance to learn more about their investment and wines. 

As such, I tend to focus on and taste those wines that I know well and hold verticals (multiple vintages of the same label), of which my wine buddies and I have holdings.  Shown left, Chateau Lynch Bages and Ormes de Pez.  

The new Lynch Bages winery was under construction during our visit in 2019. It is now open and in production with this 2020 release being the first vintage produced in the new state of the art facility. 

Marking four centuries of history and the culmination of four years’ hard work, the 2020 vintage, the first in the renovated cellars is commemorated in a new label design for the vintage.

The new cellars and vat room, were designed by architect Chien Chung Pei to put emphasis on natural light, functionality and innovative technologies. As such a light iridescent shadow suggesting the new building is set on the architectural architecture, while the vintage is handwritten by Chien Chung Pei to commemorate the collaboration.

Despite the inclement weather, this years event was well attended to a full house (shown below).

Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts.

Grand Cru Bordeaux 2019 Vintage Release Tour Chicago

 UGCB 2017 Release Tour Chicago

After working to set up the event, register attendees and fill in for late arriving producers' due to travel delays, we were able to partake of the release tasting. 

As usual, we focused on the producers that we own and collect, with particular interest in those that we visited during our last trip to Bordeaux, as well as those we are targeting for our next or futures visits to the region.

The 2020 vintage is another great year for Bordeaux. The year opened with a mild start triggering an early bud break and even flowering thanks to a warm and dry month of May. Early June brought frequent rainfall which provided reserves of water during nearly two-month period of drought which began from mid-June, continuing well into August.

While it was very warm in the first part of the year, significantly warmer than 2018 or 2019, the heart of the summer however was marginally cooler than those excessively hot years. Taken as a whole, 2020 was as warm as the baking 2018, but not as intensely hot during the summer.

By early August, a welcome flurry of rain showers swept over the region breaking the prolonged period of drought before entering a dry and sunny September, which pushed the grapes into their final period of ripening. The earlier ripening Merlot benefited from the superb conditions of an early September harvest.

Mid-September light rain falls provided a final infusion of freshness to the Cabernet grapes. Only those with late ripening plots of Cabernet Sauvignon were left in a rush to bring them in in before the concerning forecast pertaining to storm Alex at the beginning of October.

The overall harvesting conditions of 2020 were also perfectly suited for the earlier ripening Merlot grape, while the Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon vines picked towards the end of September when warm winds imposed an evaporation effect on the grapes, resulting in unusually small berries with high levels of tannins. This translated into wines with deep colors, very concentrated flavors, and abundant, well-ripened, fine-grained tannins.

Anne-Francoise Quie Château Rauzan-Gassies
Lise Latrille - Château Prieure Lichine

For the white wines of 2020, the effects of the intense summer heat was compensated by the moisture reserves from the spring showers, producing dry whites which were less aromatic than in 2019, but with plenty of complexity and vibrant acidity. 

Although the grapes had reached a perfect level of ripeness by early September, the crucial rain showers did not arrive until October, which meant that only the most patient and diligent growers were rewarded by the small harvesting window with lower levels of wine produced.

James Suckling stated, “The 2020 vintage is another great year for Bordeaux, marking a rare trilogy of excellent vintages that produced wines at the same or very close quality level across the board from great named chateaux to lesser-known estates.” 

Jancis Robinson decreed, “Some stunning wines have been produced in 2020. On the Left Bank, they tend to be made by producers who can afford to be extremely selective in their final blends. There is a host of very successful wines on the Merlot-dominated Right Bank too. I have found myself falling back in love with St-Émilion” thanks to a continuing trend where “wines are so much fresher and more expressive than they used to be.” 

Jane Anson, reporting for Decanter says, ‘I would say 2018 is the most exuberant, 2020 the most structured and concentrated, while 2019 combines both and for me is the strongest of the three – certainly the most consistent.’ She also points out that ‘Yields overall were around 25% lower than in 2019, particularly with Cabernet Sauvignon but also Cabernet Franc in many cases."

Lilian Barton-Sartorius - Châteaux
Leoville and Langoa Barton

The event is sponsored by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, (UGCB) and is hosted and orchestrated by Balzac Communications, boutique wine marketing and communications consultancy firm in Napa, under the leadership of Mike Wangbickler.

As is the custom, the afternoon session is for the benefit of the press and trade and wine professionals, and in Chicago, the evening session in Chicago was hosted by merchant partner Binny's Beverage Depot, the Chicago-land wine superstore, offering tickets to the evening session to their valued customers and the public. This year, over four hundred collectors and vinophiles registered for the even. 

My perspective was that many of the wines showed better this year being more approachable at this early age with expressive forward and full fruits – especially the right bank Merlot based wines. 

One of my standout favorites of the tasting was the Chateau Canon which was especially approachable with bright vibrant fruits and a delicious sweetness.

From a branding perspective, in addition to Lynch Bages above, a couple other new special bottling or new labels emerged.

Château Léoville Poyferré presented a striking gold painted bottle with embossed molded emblem at the top commemorating their anniversary vintage. 2020 marks the symbolic centennial vintage for the Cuvelier Family, the centennial anniversary of their ownership of this Second Grand Cru Classé of Saint-Julien. 

And, for Sara Lecompte Cuvelier, fourth generation to be at the helm of the domain, this historic vintage is encapsulated in a special bottle to commemorate this significant milestone.

The unique bottle inlaid with gold, the details of which 'pay tribute to the enduring strength of Léoville Poyferré and its multifaceted terroir'. 

 

Our visit to and tour of Château Léoville Poyferré was one of the highlights of our visit to the region in 2019.

 

Another new branding approach is Château Siran who introduce in the post Covid era an artist label series featuring artwork that will be updated with each vintage release. 

The 2020 vintage marks the return of the family tradition of Château Siran’s illustrated labels with a collaboration with Federica Matta, a Franco-Chilean artist 'sensitive to the natural elements and the culture of wine'. 

Producers Sevrine and Edouard Miailhe wanted to memorialize the pandemic that paralysed the world in 2020. They chose a theme of an anti-Covid allegory recognizing the olfactory qualities together with the beneficial properties of red wines with the new label's bright colors, celebrating "the joy of living and the happiness of sharing". 

Charlotte Burckhard showing
new Chateau Siran label branding

'Pour Boys' Tom C, me, Ernie and Lyle with
UGCB Ambassadors Chloe Morvan and
Marie Damouseau

Anne-Francoise Quie Château Rauzan-Gassies
with enthusiastic patron

Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts.

https://twitter.com/ugcbwines 

@ugcbwines

Round Lake Vineyards and Winery - Round Lake Minnesota

Round Lake Vineyards and Winery - Round Lake Minnesota

On our cross country roadtrip getaway, we stopped at Round Lake Vineyards and Winery in Round Lake, Minnesota, a further exploration and discovery of Midwestern Wines. Round Lake Vineyards is the family owned and operated enterprise of Scott Ellenbecker and Jenny Ellenbecker, and their two sons, Logan who serves as winemaker, and Mason who manages events and marketing.

Scott Ellenbecker, CEO, and Logan Ellenbecker,
Winemaker

We started our trip with a visit to Galena Cellars Vineyards and Winery in northwestern most Galena, Illinois. I wrote in an earlier blogpost about Galena Cellars' efforts to determine the ideal grapes for the unique terroir of their Northern Illinois site - the exposure, soils, drainage, climate and elevation - all the elements that contribute to and manifest themselves in the wines produced from grapes grown on the property. 

For our visit to Round Lake, we met and were hosted by founder proprietor Scott Ellenbecker who took us on an extensive tour of the vineyards and the production facilities. 

Round Lake has taken great care and put much attention to the careful selection of grape varietals that are best suited to their unique site. They have twenty-two acres planted to vineyards on the thirty acre estate on the shore of Round Lake, which provides some micro-climate moderation in extreme weather.

The Round Lake Vineyards were first planted in the spring of 2007 in three grape varieties: La Crescent, Frontenac Gris and Marquette which are some of  their most treasured vines producing some of their best and most award-winning wines. 

In 2008, they planted two more blocks in the grape varietals St. Pepin and Brianna, which source two of the most distinct wines produced by the winery. They also added to their Marquette plantings.

 

Since then, they have added Petite Pearl, Sabrevois, King of the North, Petite Amie, Frontenac Blanc and Louise Swenson grape varietals.

Most recently, they also planted the Itasca grape developed by Peter Hemstedt who at the time was at the University of Minnesota. 

The Marquette grape has proven to be especially well suited to the distinctive terror of the site and produces strong canes and beautiful bunches. 

Round Lake's south-facing slope runs from the crest of the hill north of the winery towards the south and has sandy loam soil with great drainage for both water and air and rich topsoil that holds great nutrients - an ideal vineyard location to grow grapes.

Marquette grapes due
to be picked in a couple of weeks

Round Lake has had the most success with the Marquette grape of which they have three different blocks, each producing fruit with distinctive characteristics - one lighter and fruity while the others are richer and more complex. 

The Round Lake property has rich black soils that are streaked with fractions of sand and gravel that provide good drainage and also gives the wines great mineral character. The well water on the property reflects the strong odor of iron and minerals, which also translates to the wines we grow. 

Today Round Lake grow over 19,000 vines across four vineyards in seven blocks. They also source grapes from contract growers across the region as well as sources as far away as California.   

Wines produced by Round Lake are branded and labeled according to their source and are attributed to Estate wines, Minnesota Wines and American Wines for grapes sourced from outside the state and region.

During our visit they were amidst the crush of several ton of Brianna grapes that had just arrived from their source in Iowa and we were able to witness them 'crushing' and de-stemming the grapes and pumping the juice into the stainless steel tanks for fermentation - overseen by winemaker and production manager Logan. 

 

 We also toured the bottling and labeling line and the barrel storage cellar. Scott shared the challenges they have faced in the past year with their supply chain - experiencing severe difficulties in sourcing barrels, bottles, corks and supplies. 

 

Scott showed us the barrel storage facility which is being readied for filling, that includes barrels sourced from leading French cooperages that used to operate out of Napa Valley, but have since closed, forcing them to ship barrels from France through the port of Norfolk. He also sources new American Missouri oak barrels from the Oak Cooperage in Higbee, Missouri.

We toured and wrote about the Cooper's Oak Winery and OAK Cooperage facilities during our Missouri Wine Experience a few years ago, when we got the chance to watch them cut and shape the wood, assemble and toast, then trim the barrels. Oak produces barrels for some of the top producers and brands in the United States, France and beyond, including, most notably, the cult Napa Cabernet producer Silver Oak, who have since acquired the business to ensure an ongoing supply of their specified optimal barrels for their wines.

Round Lake do a great deal of marketing and promotion of their venue which sits on the shore of Round Lake, as a site for special events including weddings. Scott talked at length about his culinary preparations and the many dishes he created for wine dinner special events at the winery. 

Round Lake have a Bistro restaurant and host live music at events and on weekends. They also host many wine dinners paired with Round Lake Wines. Scott shared with Linda many of his culinary creations that he has crafted for such events.

We dined at the Round Lake Bistro restaurant and did a wine flight tasting outside on the veranda adjacent a small pond and fountain. 

Round Lake produce a broad portfolio of wines - Red, White, Sweet and Sparkling.  

We tasted a Red Flight of the following labels:

• Round Lake Vineyards Sangiovese 2019 - This is actually sourced from the Sierra Foothills, Amador County California
• Round Lake Vineyards Heron Red Blend 
• Round Lake Vineyards Gander Red Blend
• Round Lake VIneyards Petite Pearl 2019
  

 
We also tasted Round Lake Brianna - one of their most popular white wines. It is a grape that is most consistent and natural in reflecting the source fruit.

The restaurant and adjacent grounds with live musicians performing on the lawn.

 

https://www.roundlakevineyards.com/

 

Galena Cellars Vineyards and Winery

Galena Cellars Family owned and operated Vineyards and Winery in historic Galena, Illinois

We took a cross-country driving getaway road-trip for a week and pursued our interests in wine, Frank Lloyd Wright architecture sites, historic landmarks and magnificent scenery. 

Our journey started in historic Galena, Illinois, where we stayed in the 'Old Farmhouse' country house amidst the vineyards of Galena Cellar Winery and Vineyards.

Galena is known as the hometown of legendary civil war general Ulyses S Grant who went on to be President of the United States. US Grant is featured on two of the Galena Cellars flagship wines, a red and a white. 

Sourced from their website, Galena Cellars has a long storied history in Midwest wines dating back to 1974 when Robert Lawlor took a class in home winemaking in Cedar Rapids, Iowa. 

In 1976, Christine Lawlor graduated with a Degree in Enology from Fresno State University and opened Christina Wine Cellars in MacGregor, Iowa, producing 200 cases of Cherry Wine.

In 1980, the Lawlors opened a second winery in an old Milwaukee freight depot in LaCrosse, Wisconsin. 

Galena Cellars was born in 1985, when the Lawlors, during a trip to purchase grapes, seized the opportunity to open a third winery in Galena, Illinois. They called up Christine’s brother, Scott, and his wife, Karan, to move to Galena to help with the project.  They restored an old historic 1840’s grainary building on Main Street in Galena. Galena Cellars celebrated its first annual “Beaujolais Nouveau” Wine Celebration and was featured on the Today Show.

In 1990, they acquired the current farm vineyard site on North Ford Road, just outside of town, and began growing experimental grapes. They moved the wine production to the vineyard location. The family decided to focus production in Galena and closed the McGregor and LaCrosse locations.

Christine Lawlor-White was honored as “Winemaker of the Year” by the Illinois Grape Growers and Vintners Association. She went on to win this award again in 2008, and 2017.

Cousins Eric and Sarah, Christine’s Son and Scott’s Daughter, pursue formal education in winemaking at California Polytechnic State University and Fresno State University, respectively. Upon graduation, they both embarked up winemaking careers. 

Scott, Karan, & Christine Lawlor retired after the passing of their parents and Galena Cellar founders and first generation winemakers, Robert & Joyce Lawlor. The third generation was called on to return from California, Britt White returning to take on operations of Galena Cellars, and Eric White to become Winemaker & President.

In 2019, Christine Lawlor had the honor of presenting the “Winemaker of the Year” award by the Illinois Grape Growers and Vintners Association to her son, Eric White.

The challenges to produce great Midwestern wines are numerous, starting with finding the ideal terroir - sense of place - combination of climate, terrain, soil, drainage - all the elements that manifest in the grapes that make up the wine. When we lived in California, we missed three notable things from the Midwest - steak, corn and tomatoes. All the elements of Midwest climate and soil that provide ideal conditions for corn and soybeans and such, are opposed to the environments and conditions best suited for vini vinifera - wine grapes , which are best served when starved and stressed in poor soil and arid climate.

Galena Cellars vineyard grapes

Another element affecting Midwestern wines is the quest to find or craft the ideal grape varietal to suit the specific terror of a location. 

'Old World' wine producers, in Italy and France, have been producing wines for six, even seven centuries or more, while 'new world' wine regions such as Central Coast and Northern California counties such as Napa and Sonoma, Washington and Oregon Columbia Valleys, have been producing fine wines for half a century. 

The new world is still experimenting and fine tuning the vineyard plantings to find the optimal grapes for each site. 

So it is that the Midwest is a newcomer to the wine business and are still in the early stages of finding or grafting and crafting the optimal grapes for their environs and sites. 

Although, this might be disputed as we learned and posted from our Missouri Wine Experience last year. Missouri has a long history of viticulture and winemaking dating back almost two centuries with some of the oldest wineries in the US, and some of the historic largest wineries and highest producing wine areas in the US. As early as 1850, there were nearly sixty wineries in the Hermann, Missouri area producing more than 10,000 gallons of wine per year.

By 1904, there were more than 100 Missouri wineries, the Hermann area alone produced 3 million gallons of wine, mostly by small wine grower/producers.When France’s vineyards were plagued by the phylloxera louse that threatened their entire wine industry, it was Missouri that came to the rescue. When nearly all France's grape vines were destroyed, Missouri’s state entomologist, C.V. Riley, was among the first to discover that Native American grapes were resistant to the pest. Missouri winemakers shipped millions of phylloxera-resistant rootstocks across the Atlantic, ultimately saving the French wine industry.

Missouri is also home to the first designated AVA, American Viticulture Area in the US.

Today, Galena Cellars are on the forefront of the effort to create or find the ideal grape and produce wines that best exemplify Northern Illinois is Eric White, President and Winemaker for Galena Cellars.

Eric grew up in the wine business of his mother, Chris Lawlor, who planted vineyards, tended the vines and crafted wines from the time he was yet a toddler. Several of the wine labels today still bear the branding of Lawlor Family Vineyards. Eric was exposed to all aspects of the business and as early as 1999, when he was but 12, Chris gave him his first opportunity to help make - now Galena Cellars’ flagship wine - Eric the Red. 

Eric studied winemaking and earned a degree in Enology from Cal Poly Polytechnic University in San Luis Obispo, CA. He worked internships at wine producers in the Paso Robles and Napa Valley wine regions during his studies. Upon graduation and completion of his harvest internship, he worked at legendary Heitz Cellars, one of the oldest family-owned wineries in the US working alongside David Heitz.  

Eric went on from harvest intern to Associate Winemaker where he crafted the 2010-2012 vintages of the notable estate label. The final vintage he worked at Heitz Cellars went on to earn 100 points from Wine Enthusiast Magazine.  

In 2015, Eric went to cult-cab Napa Valley producer Brand, sited up in the esteemed Pritchard Hill AVA in the Vaca Range overlooking southeast Napa Valley. It was during this time at Brand that he worked with Phillipe Melka, one of the most renowned winemakers in California.

Readers of this column know we are huge fans of Phillipe Melka and collect numerous labels crafted by him, both under his own brand, as consulting winemaker to many other leading brands, and as contributing winemaker to the Long Shadows Vintners Collection project in Washington State. 

During his time working for Melka at Brand, Eric met his wife, Oniqueh, who was also working in the wine industry in California. 

Eric returned to Galena in early 2018 at the request of his mother and his grandfather's wishes, to became the winemaker and to oversee the business of Galena Cellars.

Galena Cellars produce estate wines, crafted from grapes grown on their four vineyards on the property, as well as wines from grapes sourced from growers across the Northern Illinois and Iowa region, across Illinois, and from growers in Northern, Central Coast and Central Valley California. These wines are labeled as Estate, or 'Illinois', 'Upper Mississippi Valley Region', vineyard designated, or 'American' accordingly.

One of Galena Cellars vineyards is devoted to research in the study of grape varietals seeking the varietal best suited to Northern Illinois terroir. The nearly two acre vineyard is devoted to a non-profit research project in conjunction with the Northern Illinois Wine Growers Association and planted to more than twenty different varietals in search for those best suited to the region (shown below). 

Northern Illinois Wine Growers non-profit
research vineyard plot

At the winery site where there are guest rooms in the main house, that once also served as a tasting room, a guest house in the old historic original farmhouse, which is adjacent to the winery, a large tasting room, wine cellar shed and bottling building.  

Galena Cellars produce a broad portfolio of two dozen labels of wines - red, white, sparkling and port style - offered in create your own tasting flights, BTG - By the Glass, and of course by the bottle, at their wine center retail tasting center downtown and at the winery vineyard site outside of town.  

In our tasting flights we tasted the following wines:

From the Wine Club Member Exclusives flight, Red Wines:

• Galena Cellars Malbec 2020
• Galena Cellars Frontenac Amphora 2020 - This is a locally sourced wine sourced from Galena Cellars Ryndak Ranch Vineyard
• Galena Cellars Chambourcin 2019 - This is sourced from the Wayside Ridge Vineyard in the Shawnee Hills of Southern Illinois

Galena Cellars Proprietor's Reserve Wines

Red Wines 

• Galena Cellars Cabernet Franc 2020 - This is sourced from the Wayside Ridge Vineyard in the Shawnee Hills of Southern Illinois
• Galena Cellars Generals Reserve Red - Blend of unspecified European Varietals
• Galena Cellars Gambler's Red - a blend of 80% Zinfandel, 18% Marquette and 2% Petit Sirah
  

Galena Cellars Red Wine Flight

White Wines 

• Galena Cellars General's Reserve White
• Galena Cellars Viognier  - This is sourced from the Wayside Ridge Vineyard in the Shawnee Hills of Southern Illinois
• Galena Cellars Oktoberfest - A German style semi-dry wine, a blend of Traminette, Riesling and Muscat Grapes 

Galena Cellars White Wines featuring
General US Grant and Proprietor Manager Britt White

We also tasted selections from their Dessert wine collection:

• Galena Cellars Maple Cask Niagara - Sherry Port style
  
• Galena Cellars Red Raspberry Framboise - Port style
• Galena Cellars Frontenac Port - Port style from locally grown Frontenac
  

Galena Cellars Dessert Wine Flight selections

Other examples of the breadth and depth of the Galena Cellars portfolio of wines ...

• Eric the Red
• The Secret Garden Edelweiss
• Frontenac Gris
• Señor Sangria
• Bubblin Blanc
• Muscat Canelli
• Chambourcin Rosé
• Britt White 
• Gratitude
• Cabernet Franc
• Peach
• Marquette
• Foxy
• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Vineyard Rosé
• Honey Mead
• Sparking Frontenac Gris
  

Galena Cellars Tasting Room,
Main Street, Downtown Galena

 

 We stayed in the 'Old Farmhouse' guest house sited on the Visitor Center property, adjacent the winery, cellars, bottling shed and the tasting room, overlooking the vineyards and farm fields to the horizon.

Great fun taking our wine flights back to the front
porch overlooking the vineyards.

https://galenacellars.com/