Gulf view dining at Camille’s Crystal Beach

Gulf view dining at Camille’s Crystal Beach Restaurant

Vacationing at The Cove, our vacation home getaway in Destin (FL), we love it that we’re walking distance to nearly a dozen restaurants. Tonight we walked down the beach boulevard to Camille’s Crysal Beach Restaurant for Gulf front sunset dining. We timed our dinner and walk to enjoy the sunset enroute to the restaurant which opened shortly thereafter. 

Camille’s at Crystal Beach is located on the Scenic 98 beachfront highway at Crystal Beach, down the street from our community/enclave. Camille’s is upstairs above Camille’s Cafe located on the ground level, a popular trendy gathering place that offers coffee, breakfast, lunch and cocktails and features popular live music on the sidewalk opposite the beach walk. 

Founded in 2003 by Charles Morgan, Camille’s at Crystal Beach was named after Morgan’s grandmother and mother, referred to as Big Camille and Little Camille, respectively, two women who made a great impact on him. 

Camille’s is a sister restaurant to Harbor Docks Seafood Market that sources the freshest possible Gulf seafood that is caught in local waters by local fisherman and unloaded right on the dock, to a dozen local restaurants, ensuring a ‘Gulf to Table’ experience. The Catch of the Day is served blackened, grilled or fried. 

Besides the local fresh catch, they’re known for their sushi prepared by Executive Sushi Chef Yoshie Eddings who is well known internationally as having catered to an A-list celebrity clientele. Eddings trains all of the sushi staff at Camille’s and at the sister restaurant locations, maintaining the highest quality and standards possible to ensure that each bite will be the freshest and most delectable possible. 

We dined on the small outside veranda that overlooks the beach rode and Gulf beach opposite, at sunset for a colorful dusk sky. 

As a starter we shared the house salad which we delicious - mixed greens, grape tomatoes, figs, roasted pecans, bacon, goat cheese, house croutons, creamy vinaigrette.

Tonight, the daily fresh catch was Grouper or Red Snapper. We ordered for our main course from the menu the regular feature, Macadamia Nut Encrusted Snapper with blood orange cream, butternut squash medley, bacon & toasted coconut risotto. It was delicious. 

Additionally, we ordered the Jumbo Lump Crabcakes which were a bit disappointing seeming less than fresh or slightly fishy.

With dinner we ordered to two WBTG - Wines By The Glass, from the modest and limited wine list two glasses, a Chardonnay and a Sauvignon Blanc. 

Raeburn Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2021 

Raeburn Winery hails from the Russian River Valley in west Sonoma County. Its name originates from Olde English meaning the stream where one drinks - apropos for a wine crafted in this unique watershed which provides habitat for grapes and creatures alike. “A fitting nod to those who prefer to slow down to observe, appreciate and flourish in nature’s surroundings,” says Derek Benham, owner. 

Raeburn Wines are the handiwork of owner/winemaker Derek Benham, inspired by his mother, Phyllis Benham, who preached to “appreciate nature’s gifts, but ‘to leave well enough alone’”. Benham takes that approach when making wine, a task made easier because he selects grapes from Sonoma County’s finest vineyards and carefully crafts wines. “Rather than engineer, we guide the grapes toward the best version of themselves.”

This cool, marine-influenced region is perfectly suited to exceptionally flavored Chardonnay. Fresh layers of green apple, and pear are accented by a creamy richness due to sur lie aging. A glass of Raeburn Chardonnay is the start to a beautiful friendship. - Derek Benham, Owner.. 

Raeburn produce Sonoma County AVA wines but source grapes not only from the Russian River Valley, but also Monterey, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley, Sonoma Carneros, Dry Creek Valley and small amounts from Lodi and San Benito County.

This Raeburn Russian River Valley Chardonnay was crafted from our winemaker’s favorite vineyard lots in the Russian River Valley and aged for 11 months in a combination of French, American and Hungarian oak barrels; the result is a supremely structured and flavorful wine that offers an elevated expression of Raeburn Russian River Valley Chardonnay.

Winemaker notes - “Raeburn Rassian River Valley Chardonnay is a nod to classic California Chardonnay—elegant and expressive with bright fruit character, creaminess and toasty vanilla.”

It was rate 89 points by Wine Spectator. 175,000 cases were made

Golden straw colored, light medium bodied, peach and citrus flavors with notes of mango and vanilla on a tangy finish. 

RM 88 points. 

https://raeburnwinery.com/

Black Cottage New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Black Cottage estate and vineyards are situated along the Marlborough’s Ōpaoa River, owned by founder Dave Clouston and crafted by Winemaker Sanna Stander. They produce sustainable New Zealand wines sourced from select parcels from Marlborough, Central Otago and Hawke’s Bay. Their portfolio offers moderately priced Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris whites, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Merlot reds, and a Rose’.

This Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from the New Zealand Wairau & Awatere valleys.

Producer’s notes - “This year’s vintage is one of the finest in the last ten years. A cool summer allowed the grapes to ripen gently and evenly and show concentrated and distinctive flavours, The nature of this season allowed for optimal picking decisions. Our Sauvignon Blanc is vibrant and expressive in character, with refreshing acidity and a refined structure on the palate. We achieve maximum fruit purity and varietal character through cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks, aged on lees for 2 months to add texture and complexity.’

Producer’s Tasting notes: “Pale straw in colour, this sauvignon blanc has a complex nose of paw paw, passionfruit, pineapple and a touch of cut grass and crushed herbs. The juicy palate is packed full of tropical fruits and lime zest with a hint of sweet pea and crunchy red capsicum. Good balance and refreshing acidity complete this expressive wine.”

Light straw colored, light bodied, crisp acidity highlights zesty citrus and stone fruits.

RM 87 points. 

 
https://www.blackcottagewines.co.nz/

https://www.camillesatcrystalbeach.com/

Fine dining at 360 Grille Florence Alabama

Fine dining at 360 Grille Florence, Alabama 

We traveled to Florence, Alabama to tour the Rosenbaum House, designed by iconic American architect, Frank Lloyd Wright, a Usonian style house, the only Wright building in Alabama, considered "the purest example of the Usonian” concept.  

(Read more about my work as a Docent/Interpreter and Researcher for the Frank Lloyd Wright Trust on my Wright-site at http://www.mcnees.org/flw/).

We arrived the night before and dined at 360 Grille at the Marriott Shoals Hotel, Spa and Conference Center. 

360 Grille is a circular revolving restaurant atop a 300 foot 27 story tower overlooking the lock and dam on the scenic Tennessee River, the entire community of Florence, (Alabama), and the town of Muscle Shoals across the river, as it revolves slowly. It is Alabama's only revolving restaurant. It offers a unique and distinctive fine dining experience with ‘American chef’s creations’ and a Wine Spectator award winning wine list. 

In the end, while a technological and engineering marvel, with a 360 degree vista of the region, aside the river view, there is no skyline or cityscape to offer any sense of view - it might as well be in the middle of a forest as most of the scene is treetops in almost all directions other than the river. Of course, we are immensely spoiled being accustomed to one of the most spectacular cityscapes and skylines on the planet in Chicago! Alas, many Chicago restaurants offer memorable, world class views - too many to mention here.

As is customary, I spent much time researching and planning all the details of our trip and travel including evaluating dining options based on site and location, and primarily food and wine offerings based on published menu’s and wine lists ahead of time, as part of selecting a dining venue in the region.

360 Grille published their menu and wine list on-line which offers the chance to plan such an event. The menu was essentially up to date and accurately reflected what was on offer. The wine list however, was a bit chaotic with multiple listings for several wines including several conflicting or duplicate labels, and the typical challenge of out of date vintages and prices. 

The (historical) Wine Spectator Award Winning winelist, published on-line, shows about 75 Red Wines, 45 White Wines and Seven dessert or after dinner wines. As shown, they are arranged in a very haphazard confusing manner, and priced ranging from $30 to $375, with price points ranging from slightly over one times retail to five times retail prices. 

As I expected, the actual wines on offer bore only slight resemblance to what was published on-line. Interestingly, case in point is a wine we know extremely well, having visited the Chateau and estate in France, and holding a not-insignificant collection of the producer’s labels in our home cellar. 

Looking to support one of our favorite producers, ordering a wine we know well, we had hoped to possibly order Château Vieux Télégraphe, Châteauneuf Du Pape. I was prepared to be disappointed, though, when they also published on-line Château Vieux Télégraphe ‘Télégramme’, Châteauneuf Du Pape. Télégramme is the ‘second’ label and wine from this producer, which sells for half the price of the grand vin, but both were posted at the same price.

Ironically, this was a replay of a similar situation we encountered last year where the wine on offer was the grand vin, while the wine served was the second label. In this case, the actual wine list corrected the duplication error, offering only the second label, however at an even higher price point than the grand vin published on-line. I wrote about this similar experience in this blogpost in these pages - The James Geneva features wine friendly menu and fine wines.

The result, tonight, was a wine sold at five times the retail price, versus two times the retail price as advertised! 

There were several other errors and anomalies between the published list and actual current list in the restaurant. I wasn’t surprised and expected as much having seen this many times before, but not to this level of breadth, depth and magnitude. 

Being from Chicago, we’re used to sophisticated, upscale fine dining experiences, which we perhaps take for granted. The disparities become apparent when you visit arguably the top establishment in a small remote third tier town like Florence. The folks at 360 Grille exuded an abundance of warm friendly southern hospitality, and the venue a spectacular site experience, still, the vibe was as much akin a diner or coffee shop as it was an upscale elegant restaurant.     

For our dinner, we ordered as a starter the Baked Brie, and for entrees, I ordered the filet of beef while Linda selected the fresh seafood special selection, grilled Wahu. 

Diners were treated to an Amouse Buche of crabmeat on a small bread crust. 

For a starter, Linda ordered the Oven Baked Brie with Toasted Pecans and Apricot Jam. This is a dish we know well from several restaurant experiences, and which she personally prepares often, based on some of our favorite preparations and presentations. I wrote about her baked Brie, and some of the inspirations for it in this blogpost -  Baked Brie Tranche Slice of Pape Blanc Columbia Valley White Blend. Tonight’s presentation while imaginative and nicely done was a bit uninspiring with a somewhat simple preparation of cheese with the fruit topping. They might take note from this blogpost. 

I ordered the filet of beef, which came with my choice of two sides, spinach and truffle mashed potatoes. This offering is priced at $34 for lunch, and $52 for dinner. 

The second infraction, or disappointment of the evening, involved preparation of my filet of beef. Regular readers of these pages know I often order filet of beef with a ‘Pittsburg’ style preparation. Fully expecting the waitstaff to not know to what I was referring, I didn’t mention Pittsburg, but rather, described how I wished my steak to be prepared. I stated, slowly and distinctly, “hot pink center, and if possible, and if it doesn’t present any trouble, light charring, so long as it doesn’t result in over-cooking the beef.”  

When my entree arrived, the presentation was nice and well laid out, but it tasted smoked with a strong smoky flavor, (that unfortunately I hate to say, resembled a sense of lighter fluid). Linda, a competent and experienced cook, attributed it to ‘liquid smoke’, a cooking aide, which apparently was applied in the quest to provide the essence of charring. Needless to say, charring and smoking are very different methods of preparation, with very different taste effects and outcomes. 

In the end, Linda loved her seafood chef’s special entree which had an ample portions such that we traded mid-meal and I was able to enjoy the remains of her entree, and she found my filet less off-putting than I did. 

I was prepared and expecting to take the high road, be polite and restrained, yet mention the winelist, and perhaps also the condition of my steak preparation, to anyone in the restaurant that might be interested in feedback and willing to listen. Alas, the assistant manager happened to come by the table and asked about our dining experience, so, I offered to provide some candid and unvarnished feedback. He was a slight bit overwhelmed in the breadth and depth of my research, and expectations relative to the outcomes. In the end, he took it exceedingly well, sincerely and genuinely interested in our candid feedback and evaluation of their standards of offering and service. 

The bright spot of the evening was the Chef's Fresh Seafood Special, Grilled Wahu, served with Creamy Polenta, Spiced Pear Chutney, Frisee, Citrus Vinaigrette and Crispy Beet. This was wonderful, and delicious, although perhaps slightly overcooked so as to be a bit dry. 

With her entree we ordered a Chardonnay B-T-G, by the glass, from the available options. 

With my entree I ordered one of the reds that was available at a slightly more reasonable value - two and a half times the retail price, which I consider a bit high (especially for a place like Florence, Alabama), but acceptable and somewhat ‘customary’ for upscale fine dining establishments. 

Gary Farrell Sonoma Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2021

I selected this as a cross-over wine, one that could go with both Linda’s grilled seafood and my steak dinner. 

Like the Vieux Telegraphe above, we know this producer well and had visited the Gary Farrell estate and winery in the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, during or Napa / Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017.  I wrote about this producer and our visit there in this earlier blogpost.

Farrell produces and is most noted for a wide portfolio of single vineyard designated Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from Sonoma County and the Russian River Valley. 

This is their standard bottling blended from numerous vineyard sources. 

This Russian River Selection bottling is a classic Russian River Valley profile, sourced and blended from several of the region’s top vineyards, taking advantage of varied climates and unique site characteristics. 

From the Producer - Tasting Notes - “This gorgeous Pinot Noir opens with seductive aromas of cherry liquor, sweet tobacco, fresh fennel, rose petal and boysenberry preserves. The broad, youthful, tangy, yet complex palate offers juicy flavors of blood orange, sour cherry jam, tamarind, raspberry jerk sauce, with a hint of savory green plantains. The firm tannins and tangy acidity create a full-bodied texture, lending to the incredibly long, spicy finish.” 

Vineyard Notes - “Our Russian River Selection bottlings are quintessential Russian River Valley wines blended from some of the region’s top vineyards, taking advantage of varied climates and unique site characteristics. The Rochioli and Bacigalupi vineyards are located in the Middle Reach subdivision, where close proximity to the river awards foggy mornings, warm and sunny days, and cool nights – the perfect balance that characterizes the Russian River Valley. The Martaella vineyard is located in the Santa Rosa Plain, a distinctly cooler and foggier sub-region, while the Hallberg and McDonald Mountain Vineyards, located within the Green Valley and Sebastopol Hills neighborhoods, exhibits even more extreme cool climate conditions. A beautiful expression of the varietal and of the appellation’s unique terroir, this Pinot Noir blend captures the richness, purity and elegance that are Gary Farrell Winery’s trademarks.”

This was rated 93 points by Wine Enthusiast and 91 points by Jeb Dunnuck. 

Ruby colored medium bodied, dusty rose floral perfume tones with black cherry fruits with notes of what Jeb Dunnuck calls ‘cherry cola’, and the winemaker cites ‘savory, sweet tobacco’ with tangy, nicely balanced acidity and fine grained tannins on a lingering finish. 

RM 90 points.    

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?2609748

https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/mslmc-marriott-shoals-hotel-and-spa/overview/

https://www.360grille.net/our-menus

Sole Meunière Amandine with RRV Chardonnay

Sole Meunière Amandine with RRV Unoaked Chardonnay

Once of my favorite dishes is Sole Meunière, or similar delicate white fish with a buttery white wine sauce. I have fond memories of the succulent Petrale Sole at Scott’s Seafood in Palo Alto (CA), a regular feature on their menu. I dined there weekly for many years, across the street from my Silicon Valley office on Embarcadero and Bayshore Road. Even more delectable was the seasonal special of Sand Dabs when they were available - a delicate white fish, also known as Rex Sole, found on the Northern California Pacific Coast during springtime.

Of course Dover Sole is such an offering, when available, although it is a much larger fish and hence is a much larger portion, and tends therefore to be expensive. Never-the-less, I loved the Dover Sole at Il Postino Restaurant near tony Sutton Place and Lenox Hill neighborhood in New York City which I featured several times in these pages. - Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Chardonnay at Il Postino NYC.

Also, I would say my near favorite seafood dish is Flounder, and once again enjoyed at one of my favorite and memorable eateries for such another New York favorite, featured in these pages - Eataly NYC Flounder Seafood Dinner, and - Eataly New York Wine Dine Options.

We went to Omaha Steaks’ retail outlet in nearby Lombard to pick up a beef tenderloin for our Easter Sunday family dinner. There, they had filets of Sole Almondine which we were tempted to pick up for a special dinner. Omaha Steaks describe their offering - “Boasting a rich flavor … only the finest wild-caught, natural, white sole fillets … our Sole Almondine - premium boneless sole topped with tasty cheese-flavored bread crumbs and crunchy sliced almonds.”

We picked up a case and Linda prepared a buttery muniere sauce for the sole and side of balsamic rice, served with mixed medley of peas, corn and shallots.

I pulled from the cellar an Unoaked Chardonnay from the upper Sonoma Russian River Valley, expecting it to be more neutral and delicate to accompany the sole entree. 

Williams Selyem Unoaked Sonoma Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2017

Winemakers Notes - “Notes of spiced pear and yellow apple come to the forefront of the aromatics, and a touch of jasmine adds a wonderful lift to the nose. Fruit sourced from mature vines provides great acidity and livens the palate, while balancing the tannin structure. Aged on the primary yeast in tank, this wine has a developed weight and texture while being bone-dry. Subtle minerality is apparent on the nose and palate, and further adds depth and complexity.”

This was rated 95 points by Wine Enthusiast and 90 points by Wine Advocate 

Silver golden straw colored, light bodied, crisp bright acidity with notes of stone fruit, ripe apple and hints of pear and citrus on a tangy finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.williamsselyem.com/wine/2017-unoaked-chardonnay/

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3205080

Elmhurst fine dining caps day of suburbs' museum tours

Elmhurst (IL) fine dining caps day of suburban museum tours

Linda and I visited the Lizzadro Museum in Oak Brook, then the Picasso Exhibit at the Elmhurst Art Museum. Following our museum outings, we visited downtown Elmhurst and dined at Victory Restaurant. 

As a I child, I grew up in Elmhurst and attended Hawthorne Elementary School across the street from the original Lizzadro Museum and the current day site of the Elmhurst Art Museum. Back then, the museum site was a street and a block of aging homes that I would walk and pass enroute to school. It was during that time that the original Lizzadro Museum was built in Wilder Park directly across from my school. 

So, it was heartfelt to revisit my childhood neighborhood and hometown. Also, Linda was touched by the history and legacy of the Lizzardro Museum, so we joined and became supporting members. This pays homage to ancestors, one of whom was a stone mason in southern Indiana who worked on the National Cathedral In Washington DC, her brother, a geology major in college, her mother Lucy, an artist who painted, drew, and did work in ceramics and some in lapidary arts, and Linda's several years selling fine jewelry for a major department store, more for recreation and enjoyment than the remuneration.

While in the Elmhurst neighborhoods, we visited two historic, architecturally significant homes - driving by the FB Henderson House by legendary architect Frank Lloyd Wright, and then while visiting the Elmhurst Art Museum, we toured the McCormick House, by another legendary architect, Mies van der Rohe. This was especially interesting since we visited the notable Mies van der Rohe Farnsworth House earlier this summer. Also, readers of these pages know I give tours at the Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio in suburban Oak Park.

Our visit to the Elmhurst Art Museum was to see the Picasso exhibit, which was a precursor to our visit to the magnificent Art Institute of Chicago and the Picasso exhibit there, the follow day which included a Pour Boys Wine Group Dinner at Italian Village Chicago.

Visiting downtown Elmhurst we visited Tannins Wine Shop and Wine Bar and met proprietor and Certified Sommelier Mike Allas. He has a carefully selected offering of wines for sale and for sipping on-site, with a broad selection of WBTG - Wines By The Glass. The retail selection included wines from Chateau La Nerthe, one of our favorite producers from the Rhone, which we visited a couple of times. It also included a couple labels from HourGlass Vineyards in Napa, some of which we hold in our cellar, but also a label we've not seen before which we're eager to try at some point. 

The real crown jewel of the establishment may be the Reserve Wine List which is available on request. It includes for retail sale a who's who of Napa Valley ultra-premium labels with the usual suspects included - Shafer Hillside Select, Opus, Joseph Phelps Insignia and Dominus, to name a few. We'll look forward to visiting Tannins again soon for causal wine sipping and small bites.

We then went next door to dine at Victory Meat and Seafood Restaurant.  

They offer a formal fine dining room adjacent the bar, and a more casual dining seating area at, along and to the rear of the bar. As the first diners of the evening we were seated in the rear. Next time we visit, we'll seek to sit in the nicer more formal dining room.

The menu offers a selection of seafood, steaks, chicken and pasta dishes, soups, salads, appetizers, oysters, and desserts. 

There is a limited but adequate, carefully selected wine list with several offerings of WBTG - Wines By The Glass.

For starters, in consideration of being their 'first diners of the New Year', we were treated to Lobster Bisque! It was delectable, rich, warm, flavorful with ample chunks of fresh lobster meat. 

Linda ordered the Baked Oysters, sourced from the Northeast Atlantic coast which we were advised, are considered the most delectable and sweetest by the chef. 

For our entrees, Linda had the Maryland Crabcakes and I the SeaBass. 

Maryland Crab Cake

Linda loved the hearty rich crab filled preparation. The smaller portion size was due to the fact it was a starter, which she selected for her entree. Even then, it was sufficient for her dinner. 

Seabass - Broccolini and EVOO

The Sea Bass was prepared and presented nicely and properly, the brocolini and beans prepared with EVOO (extra virgin olive oil) accompaniment was filling and tasty, but suffering from a comparison with the extraordinary Sea Bass with black truffle risoto we had the other evening at Entourage Restaurant in Naperville. 

For wine pairings we ordered from the ample BTG - By The Glass offerings a pair of two current release young Sonoma County Chardonnays. 

Neyers "304" Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2022

This is from namesake Bruce and Barbara Neyers, originally from Delaware, they moved to Northern California in 1970 and ultimately purchased the Conn Valley Ranch in 1984 and established Neyers Vineyards in 1992.

In 1999, they purchased the winery and thirty-acre parcel in 1999, in the Sage Canyon area of Napa Valley. They renovated the estate building a modern winery. They produced their first Neyers Vineyards vintage in the new facility in 2000 and in 2002 were named Artisan Winery of the Year by Wine and Spirits Magazine.

On their 50-acre Conn Valley ranch estate they grow Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon which accounts for about 25% of their production. They also purchase grapes from a select group of growers including the Sangiacomo family of the Carneros District, Will Nord of Napa, the Rossi Ranch of Sonoma County, Markus Bokisch and the Evangelho family. 

Bruce started his career as a chemist, but pursued a career in wine starting at Mayacamas Winery in the Napa Valley in 1972 where he spent two years as assistant winemaker while studying in the wine program at University of California, Davis. He and Barbara spent two years in the Nahe region in Germany where he worked as an apprentice winemaker. Returning in 1975, he joined Joseph Phelps who was just starting his winery, and worked there for 17 years, leaving in 1992 as general manager.

From Phelps, Bruce joined Berkeley-based importer Kermit Lynch serving as National Sales Manager until his retirement in 2017. Working with 100+ French wine producers he learned about viticulture wine-making and production.

Bruce's experience with French wine importer Kermit Lynch and their French producers had an influence on their wines such as organic farming, making wines naturally without use of cultured yeast or lab designed malo-lactic starter, and bottling wines without fining or filtration. Also, Neyers uses French barrels made to their specifications from wood they buy in bulk.

Meanwhile, Barbara taught then pursued her love of food and cooking, eventually managing the heralded Chez Panisse Restaurant in Berkeley for 20 years.

Bruce and Barbara raised three children on their ranch in the Conn Valley area of the Napa Valley, where they now grow grapes while they jointly manage the winery, which is now a joint venture with Trinchero Family Estates.

Tadeo Borchardt is winemaker who oversees the winemaking process along.

Bruce Neyer's says, “No expense has been spared in our grape growing, winemaking practices, or processing equipment, yet customers repeatedly tell us that our wines represent great value in today's highly competitive wine market.”  Bruce Neyers produces the company blog, “Vintner Tales.”

Neyers "304" Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2022

Winemaker Notes - "A crisp freshness is the main component the winery looks for, but they enjoy the bright minerality as well, and the naturally low alcohol level makes the wine even more enjoyable. There is no contact with oak barrels during the production, so the charming fruit component is allowed to take center stage."

This was rated 91 points by Wine Enthusiast and 90 points by James Suckling.

Light straw colored, light medium bodied, notes of golden apple, pear and hints of peach fruits with wet stone and mineral with a crisp abrupt finish. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4753140

https://www.neyersvineyards.com/

Hartford Court Sonoma Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2022

This is from Hartford Family Winery, founded in 1993 by Don and Jennifer Hartford, natives of the Russian River Valley. Their vineyards and winery are located in the Sonoma County town of Forestville, about 15 miles the cool Pacific Coast in difficult locations along the rugged foothills of the region.

Hartford Family makes wines under two brands, the Hartford Family and this Hartford Court which is labels of small lot single vineyard designated Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that express the "high-personality distinctive qualities inherent in each vineyard's terroir" - the interplay of soil, slope, exposure and climate. They produce a dozen different vineyard specific labels sourced from more than a dozen vineyards in the Russian River Valley, Green Valley and Sonoma Coast appellations.

This is their estate label, not vineyard specific but a blend from numerous vineyard sources.

Winemaker Notes - "The 2022 vintage, one of Hartford Court's earliest harvests on record, gave them wines with precision and concentration. The Chardonnay has great elegance and bright acidity from the fruit harvested in August, with the fruit harvested in September giving more ripe fruit and richness."

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, rich round complex, ripe apple and pear fruits with notes of sweet papaya or mango, and lemon citrus and tropical fruit notes with hints of oak and medium acidity on the finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4808170

https://www.hartfordwines.com/

https://twitter.com/HartfordWines

https://www.victorymeatandseafood.com

Lunch at Hemingway's Bistro Oak Park after FLW Tour

Lunch at Hemingway's Bistro Oak Park after FLW Tour features delightful casual sipping WBTG pairing

College friends and Linda's sorority sister Sara and husband Chuck were in town to visit family and friends. We met up and arranged to host them on a tour of the Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio in Oak Park where I am a docent interpreter. Afterwards we met two other sisters and their partners for lunch at Hemingway's Bistro in Oak Park. 

Hemingway's Bistro is one of our favorite dinesites and one we love to combine my tour activities at the Frank Lloyd Wright home just blocks away with lunches or dinners for such occasions. We've featured some of those tour and dining outings in these pages' blogposts -

Hemingway's Bistro Wine Dinner Highlights FLW Architecture Tours

FLW Home & Studio Tour and Hemingway's Bistro Oak Park

Linda and I ordered the daily special fresh fish, Walleye served with crab cake crust, mashed potatoes and haricot verts. With our lunch, we ordered WBTG - wines by the glass, a Russian River Valley Chardonnay and Northern Rhône Crozes-Hermitage Sryah.

Before our entrees, I ordered for a starter course the Chicken Liver Pate'. As an accompaniment I had a glass of the Crozes-Hermitage. 

Paul Jaboulet Aîné "Les Jalets" Crozes-Hermitage 2017

Paul Jaboulet Aîné owns parcels of vines in several Rhône appellations both north and south, and produces an extensive range of both estate bottled and négociant wines. Paul Jaboulet Aîné is one of the most prolific producers in the Northern Rhône, notably in Hermitage and Crozes Hermitage. 

The earliest record of the Jaboulet family producing wine dates back to 1834, and the eventual house of Paul Jaboulet Aîné remained in Jaboulet family ownership until 2006. It was then sold to the Frey family, proprieters of Ch La Lagune in Bordeaux, and numerous other vineyards and labels.

Frey obtained the famous brand names such as Hermitage "La Chapelle" and Crozes Hermitage "Domaine de Thalabert", but not all of the vineyards historically used for producing those wines. Notably the vineyard used to produce Crozes Hermitage "Domaine de Thalabert" - a vineyard historically known as Les Grandes Vignes - was split, with part remaining under the control of Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet. Frey succeeded in restoring the reputation of Paul Jaboulet Aîné which had fallen away during the 1990s.

Domaine de Raymond Roure is a nine acre Crozes Hermitage vineyard high on the back of the Hermitage hill which Jaboulet acquired in 1996. The red now sells at a premium to Thalabert and is the wine for longer keeping.

Les Jalets is a modest priced casual sipper with good QPR - quality price ratio, from the Northern Rhône Crozes Hermitage AVA that produces distinctive earthy dark fruity Shiraz/Syrahs. 

Bright garnet colored, medium to full-bodied with lively expressive forward briery blackcurrant and red berry fruits accented by black pepper, licorice, spices and savory truffle notes with a tongue puckering tangy acidity on a moderate tannin laced finish. 

RM 89 points.

This was awarded 92 points by Decanter and commented by Jeb Dunnuck and Wine Advocate.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3495500

http://www.jaboulet.com/Website/site/fra_prehome.htm

With our entree course Linda and I both selected this lively Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley.

Lake Sonoma Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2020 

Another modest priced good QPR selection served BTG from the winelist.
Lake Sonoma Winery produces a range of red and white wines from across the Sonoma County winegrowing region representing its diverse assemblages of terroirs and micro-climates.  This diversity is expressed through Sonoma’s sub-appellations, many of which are renowned for specific varietals that thrive in each. 

Lake Sonoma Winery work with the most celebrated of these sub-appellations to offer their portfolio of  wines designed that showcase the region’s unique characteristics and the varietal for which it has come to be known.

This moderate priced Chardonnay is sourced from Lake Sonoma estate vineyard in the Russian River Valley. 

Lake Sonoma Winery’s winemaker, Jaime “JJ” Dowell joined Lake Sonoma Winery in 2021 after spending time in New Zealand managing the production of a high-end Pinot Noir at Villa Maria Estate in Blenheim. 

The native Californian started out working as an Associate Winemaker alongside highly regarded Jean Hoefliger at Alpha Omega Winery in Napa Valley’s Rutherford AVA for five-years. She then took over winemaking duties at Round Pond Estate before moving to Lake Sonoma Winery on the other side of the Mayacamas Mountain range that separates Napa and Sonoma Valleys.

When she arrived this wine was still in barrel. The previous winemaker made the decisions on harvest and fermentation, and left it to her successor to blend the final bottled wine. JJ put her spin on things, and through the blending, the identity was crafted. 

Winemaker Notes: "This classic Chardonnay expresses the best of the Russian River Valley appellation through vibrant citrus and tropical fruit aromas with hints of vanilla.  Bright fruit flavors including kiwi, lime and nectarine round out the palate followed by a rich and lingering finish."

The wine was left on the lees for three months to enhance the mid-palate richness. Aged for 22 months in 20% new French oak, 50% neutral oak and 30% stainless steel tanks.

This was delightful and a perfect complement to the walleye fresh fish special. 

Straw colored, medium bodied, balanced and flavorful peach, and tangerine citrus fruit flavors with accents of lychee tropical fruit on a smooth elegant lingering finish. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4170830

https://lakesonomawinery.com/

http://hemmingways-bistro.com/

Previous lunch and dinner dining experiences at Hemingway's Bistro featured in these pages:

Roots Klee Pinot Noir Hemingway's Bistro in Oak Park

Hemingway's Oak Park BYOB BTG Dinner

Hemingway's Bistro Wine Dinner Highlights FLW Architecture Tours

Château La Couspaude St Emilion Grand Cru Classé with Hemingway's Oak Park French Fare

Festive Holiday Dinner at Hemingway's Bistro Oak Park

Anniversary Dinner at Hemingway's Bistro Oak Park

Lunch at Hemingway's Bistro Oak Park

Wine BTG with small plates at Hemingway's Oak Park

FLW Home & Studio Tour and Hemingway's Bistro Oak Park

Belle Glos RRV Dairyman Vineyard Pinot Noir

Belle Glos Russian River Valley Dairyman Vineyard Pinot Noir 2015

Following the pair of Belle Glos Pinots we had at two restaurants on our summer getaway to our Destiny Cove vacation rental the last week, when we returned home, I pulled from the cellar the third label in the series of vineyard designated labels from this producer. We had this with a home grilled pizza and it was a  delicious accompaniment.

Last week we had the Belle Glos Clark & Telephone Pinot Noir at the Beach Walk Café, Henderson Park Inn, in Destin FL, then the Belle Glos Las Alturas Pinot Noir at Firefly Grill Effingham, IL

We hold all these labels from various vintages in our cellar collection, so we tried the Belle Glos Dairyman Vineyard Pinot with home grilled pizza on the deck for dinner. 

Each of the Belle Glos Pinot Noirs are produced from top growing areas along the California coast: the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey County; the Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County; and the Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County. 

The wines showcase the distinctive climatic and terroir differences of the sites, notable for the amount of fog, wind, sunlight and soil type at each site.

The Belle Glos Pinot Noirs are very distinctively packaged with the top third of the bottles being dipped in red wax at an angle to form the  signature capsules protecting the corks.

The name Belle Glos (pronounced BELL GLOSS), honors Winemaker Joseph J. Wagner’s grandmother, Lorna Belle Glos Wagner, a co-founder of Caymus Vineyards."  Wagner is a fourth-generation winemaker from a family with farming and winemaking roots in the Napa Valley since 1906.  

Belle Glos Sonoma County Russian River Valley Dairyman Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016

As reported in these pages, in the midst of summer, its was a nice departure from the big bold hearty Syrah's/Shiraz's we enjoy, and the robust Bordeaux varietals to the finer, more refined, less bold and burdensome Pinot Noirs. Each of these tastings were delightful and frankly, exceeded our expectations for a ideal accompaniment to our various entrees. 

As noted, each of the Belle Glos labels is from a designated vineyard in the different popular coastal influenced growing regions suited to growing Pinot Noir. This vineyard designated label is from their source in the Russian River Valley in Northern California, Sonoma County. Situated in the southern alluvial plains of the Russian River Valley, Dairyman Vineyard’s proximity to the Pacific Ocean results in a cool morning fog and afternoon coastal breezes that elongate the growing season.

While the Russian River Valley is a large and diverse appellation with multiple climate zones and soil types, as it meanders from the inland mountain and foothill valleys westward to the Pacific, it is best known for cool-climate varieties, with Pinot Noir as the most popular. 

Russian River Valley grapes benefit from the persistent late afternoon flow of Pacific Ocean fog through the Petaluma Gap and along the Russian River Valley that ensures slow and steady ripening and the preservation of grape acidity. 

Historically Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs had bright red fruit and delicate earthy, mineral notes. But changes in viticultural and winemaking practices have led to stylistic changes in some of the region’s wines. Adjustments to canopy management, among other techniques, have resulted in riper fruit and bolder wines as well. These show flavors of black cherry, blackberry, cola, spice and darker, loamy earth tones, accenting traditional Pinot Noir notes of strawberry, raspberry and light cherry.

The terroir of the site results in small, concentrated and flavorful berries, producing bright cherry characteristics, brown spices, and a keen minerality overlaid with a rich, velvety mouth feel. Named as a result of its history, once an old dairy farm, the pastureland was planted to Dijon clone Pinot Noir in 2000, preserving the longstanding agricultural history of the property.

Winemaker's Notes - "Dark ruby red in color with satisfying aromas of boysenberry, dark cherry and mulberry along with delicate hints of baking spices, dill, cola, nutmeg and vanilla. On the palate, bold flavors of cranberry, ripe plum, cherry and super-ripe strawberry are uplifted by gentle notes of cocoa powder and sweet fig for a generous and silky mouthfeel. This tremendously complex and broad-shouldered wine finishes with grace."

 

Like the earlier Pinots mentioned above, this was delightful, enjoyable drinking, bright ruby colored, medium full bodies, expressive black cherry and plum fruits with spicy notes of nutmeg, vanilla and sweet mocha with a smooth, almost elegant, balanced lingering finish. 

 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2823880

https://belleglos.com/

https://twitter.com/bellegloswines 

Jordan Chardonnay at Louisiana Lagniappe Destin Seafood

Jordan Sonoma County Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2020 at Louisiana Lagniappe Destin, FL

During our getaway week to our Destiny Cove vacation rental, with our daughter and grandkids, we dined at Louisiana Lagniape on the inner Destin Harbor in Destin, FL. Louisiana Lagniappe Destin is one of our favorites and a must try for spectacular fresh seafood when in the area.

As I wrote from our last visit back in May, Louisiana Lagniappe is somewhat of an institution in Destin, FL, opened in 1984 and established inside the Sandpiper Cove condominium community on the waterfront of the Destin Harbor lagoon.  Since then, Louisiana Lagniappe has developed a loyal following due to the quality of the food and the attention to detail of the service, consistently serving only the freshest Gulf seafood and steaks prepared with a Creole flair.

 

 

 Lagniappe is consistently ranked in the Top 10 restaurants on TripAdvisor and wins the Award of Excellence every year. 

As is necessary to get a table, especially with a group or with kids, we arrived shortly before 5:00 pm and were seated immediately on the outside deck overlooking the waterfront. By the time we left, the huge dining room inside and all the others were full and there was a line outside waiting for tables. There was a long line of cars waiting to be parked by the valet parking associate. 

Their extensive menus offers ten appetizers, ten 'Chef's Selections', eleven 'Lagniappe Favorites', three fried seafood and four steak offerings - all served with their delicious homemade hush-puppies, house salad and twice-baked potato.

With twenty delectable mouthwatering seafood dishes Louisiana Lagniappe is a landmark for finest Seafood in the area. 

For starters we had house salads, the Lagniappe favorite Corn & Crab Bisque - A rich, cream soup with jumbo lump crabmeat and fresh yellow corn and the Oysters Lagniappe - Baked Lagniappe stuffing and jumbo lump crabmeat. Each of the entrees comes with their delectable hush puppies and a choice of twice baked potato or rice.

I love meuniere sauce preparations and they have several from which to choose. Tonight, I had the Grouper Pecan Meuniere - Fresh Gulf Grouper, pan sautéed and topped with toasted pecans and meuniere sauce. It was a bit dry, I would prefer more of the meuniere sauce. Need to ask next time!

Following the incredible Shrimp & Grits at The Red Pony in Franklin, TN, Linda went for an encore and had the Lagniappe Shrimp & Grits - Jumbo Gulf Shrimp tossed in a smoked tasso ham cream sauce served over stone-ground cheese grits. It we delicious, not as good as The Red Pony, but delicious none-the-less.

The kids shared the Lagniappe Twin Lobster Tails and Blackened Bay Scallops served with a pineapple-rum butter sauce. After a do-over due to them being far too spicy, despite being ordered non-spicy, they were fine. Generally, that aside, everything was fabulous, perfectly prepared and presented.

With our dinner we ordered from the fundamentally sound basic wine list, an old standby favorite, Jordan Sonoma County Russian River Valley Chardonnay. This provides reliable casual easy sipping with great QPR - Quality Price Ratio.

Jordan Sonoma County Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2020

Winemaker's Notes - "Not a typical California Chardonnay, Jordan honors the finest white Burgundy with its crisp fruit flavors, vibrant acidity and lingering finish. This balanced, elegant style of Russian River Valley Chardonnay can be cellared for 5-8 years.'

"The 2020 Chardonnay is packed with delicious aromas and flavors. The Fuji apple aromas are always the mark of a good vintage, but the way that it is interlaced with Asian pear, lemon, persimmon and white flower is what sets this vintage apart—along with its mouth-watering acidity and French oak backbone.'

"Delicate aromas of Fuji apple, freshly cut persimmon and citrus blossom entice the nose. Upon first sip, mouthwatering grapefruit and bright lime interplay on the palate. The lively acidity balances seamlessly with French oak nuances, enticing you to take another sip."

"Following fermentation and sur-lie aging in a combination of stainless steel and barrel, this wine spends five and a half months in 100% new French oak, bringing out tropical notes of pineapple and gardenia. Crisp acidity and precise minerality entertain on the bright mid-palate. Tangerine, apple, and mint are focused and edgy yet tempered by that delicate oak influence.'

"The bouquet offers delicate aromas of Fuji apple, citrus, nutmeg, honey, and lightly toasted oak. The Jordan 2020 Chardonnay delivers lively and complex flavors of Asian pear, key lime, and Marcona almond. These refined notes offer a seamless expression of rich, bold flavors with a long, elegant finish. This wine is delicious now and will continue to gain honeyed richness with an additional 3 to 5 years of aging. Serve between 55 and 60 degrees to ensure the full flavor development."

This was aged 5 months in new french oak, 100%.

 RM 89 points. 

https://www.jordanwinery.com/product/jordan-chardonnay-2020

Can't wait to return! Get there early. 

They also have a sister restaurant just across the state line on the Alabama shore at Perdido Beach in Orange Beach, AL. 

http://www.thelouisianalagniappe.com/destin/