PureCru (Napa) Lodi Rosso Sangiovese 2017

PureCru (Napa) Lodi Rosso (Sangiovese) 2017

This is from well known California Winemaker, Mitch Cosentino who has been making wines in Northern California since 1980 when at 28 years of age, he began Crystal Valley Cellars, where he produced wines at a winery in Santa Clara and two wineries in Sonoma County before setting up operations in Modesto and later moving to Lockford, producing wines under the Crystal Valley Cellars and Cosentino Select  labels. 

Mitch produced award winning wines winning medals at the Orange County and Los Angeles County fairs in 1982. In 1986 Cosentino won Best of Class and a gold medal at the Los Angeles County Fair for several of his wines bottled under Crystal Valley Cellars. In those early years he sourced most of his grapes from Central Valley vineyards, but later he began sourcing more grapes from vineyards closer to the coast. 

In 1990 Mitch opened Cosentino Winery in Napa Valley which he operated for 20 years, selling out in late 2010. He consulted for the new owners for a few years but is no longer involved, however, his former winery still carries his name, a tribute to his work in developing the property and brand.

PureCru wines released their first wine in 2007, primarily focused on Napa grown wines from local vineyards, however, some of their wines such as this one, are sourced from other parts of Northern California. PureCru wines do not own any vineyards, rather they source the grapes from relationships with premium vineyards that Mitch has developed over his long career in the valley.

“For many years, I had been reminiscing about creating a small, hands-on winery, like I had in the beginning; the result was pureCru where I released my first premium vintage in 2007, says Mitch.” The pureCru label and brand he regards as a “Winemakers Wine Project,” as he is personally involved in every aspect, from the vineyard to the bottle. 

PureCru Wines was originally established as the result of a business partnership between winemaker Cosentino, a grocer broker, a real estate developer and an oncologist, partners that shared mutual interests in winemaking and golf. So, he and the three friends formed pureCru to focus on small lot wines that are handcrafted to be enjoyed on their own or with food. Today, pureCru Wines is owed by the Scotto family, proprietors of Scotto Cellars.

This label is sourced from family owned and operated farmer growers Mohr-Fry Ranches who started back in 1855 with just row crops and over time grew to develop vineyards and farming 12 varieties of wine grapes, 2 varieties of cherries and over 25 varieties of dry heirloom beans. 

The agricultural history of the Mohrs and Frys dates back to the 1850s when Bruce Fry's great-great-grandfather on Jerry's mother's side, Cornelius Mohr left his job on a whaling ship in the port of San Francisco and began a farming operation on a Spanish land grant in Mt. Eden near what later became Hayward. Today Mohr-Fry Ranches farm 12 unique varieties of wine grapes in Lodi in the central valley of California.

With over 165 years of farming in California over 5 generations, Mohr-Fry Ranches consists of 5 properties in the Lodi area. The grow 12 varieties of wine grapes they grow are: (Alicante, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier & Zinfandel). 

I take a little bit of umbrage with the branding of this wine as the label prominently features the "PureCru Napa Valley" logo implying this is a Napa Valley wine consisting of Napa Valley fruit. While they produce several other labels of such wines, this one is sourced from Central Valley fruit from vineyard sources around Lodi.

While this wine is produced and bottled by PureCru Wines that is based in Napa, it is not a Napa Valley wine. This is misleading and takes improper liberties leading consumers to the believe this is a Napa valley product. Only when one reads the rear label is there a reference to Lodi, while both front and rear labels sport the PureCru logo with the word Napa Valley. 

Wine labels are mystifying and confusing enough for consumers without misdirection or misleading information added. I think this is wrong and should be corrected. 

I am surprised Napa Valley folks don't address this since appellation rules cite that for a wine to be labeled "Napa Valley", it must be at least 70% sourced from Napa Valley fruit to bear that designation on the label. Otherwise, this should rightfully be labeled California or some other specific designation. 

No other region in America commands a greater 'tax' or premium on its wine prices than Napa Valley, as witnessed by the escalation in land prices and associated wine prices over the years. That said, its egregious to attach a Napa Valley label to a wine sourced from Central Valley California - especially in light of the specific rules associated with such labeling. 

In any event, I picked up this Sangiovese based wine, albeit California Sangiovese, at the recommendation of wine merchant Michel Chang at Malloy's Finest wine shop in Lisle ((IL). I try to stop in and support him and other local wine merchants as the Chicagoland market becomes more and more dominated by big box wine and beverage super store Binny's who now has 45 outlets and take a larger and larger market share. As their market presence and share increases, their margins and applicable prices and discounts have become increasingly predatory and less consumer friendly. 

Perhaps Cosentino and Purecru were held to task and they corrected their alleged mis-deeds because as I pull up this label on  Cellartracker, the on-line repository of a million labels, I only find 2017 pureCru Rosso di Sangio in which the 'offending' Napa Valley designation is missing.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4761278

Another (the only) Sangiovese label listed on the pureCru website is 2016 Purecru Sangio Vetta. The description states, “Proving that Sangiovese can triumph in Northern California, this small production, 38-month barrel-aged red shows all the charm of old-world acidity and vivid red cherry. Its juicy middle is armed with oregano and chervil, with chalky plum skin tannins and a weaving of salty minerality." - Meridith May - Publisher’s Picks"

Composition: 93% Sangiovese, 7% Merlot Winemaking: Each lot was hand-picked and destemmed where it was fermented and then aged individually, primarily French and eastern European oak barrels for over three years then blended about a month prior to bottling. It is released when it is considered ready for tasting, much like a Brunello. Historically this wine from its hillside vineyard has a potential for developing and complexing for up to two decades.

Tasting Notes: Briary with red and black fruit, rhubarb, and baking spices that tend to dominate upfront. Big structured and intense pomegranate and plum with ripe tannins, minerally mountain characteristics. Brunello style, polish, and balance with depth and long aging future. - Mitch Cosentino, Winemaker

Under the "Wine Specs" for that label, it specifically states, Appellation: Napa Valley.

The Cellartracker community records show nine vintages of this label dating back to 2007. Five vintages show labels, four of which refer to this wine being Napa Valley Sangiovese, except the fifth for the 2007 vintage, which interestingly designates "California Sangiovese". 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2181367

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1332407

Notably, that label logo for PureCru, does not mention Napa Valley. Should this same treatment be applied to this 2017 Rosso label as well?

Other similarly situation and branded PureCru wines and their appellation designations are:

Vintage	Wine	Appellation
2015	Rosato di Sangio	Lodi
2014	Purety White Meritage	Napa Valley
2013	Chardonnay	Napa Valley
2012	Sangio Vetta	Napa Valley
2009	Pure Coz Red Blend	Napa Valley
2017	pC Verdelho	Lodi
2017	pC Rosato	Lodi
2015	pC Rosso	Lodi

I don't know or can't tell the intent, or the outcomes of this branding confusion, so I leave it here. 

Never-the-less, the focus on Sangiovese by Cosentino continue where he writes:

From pureCru "Spotlight on Sangiovesse", 4 wines from 1 grape ... Rosso di Sangio,  Brut Rose, Nuovo, Rosato

From Mitch: "While pureCru Winery is a Napa Valley Winery, occasionally we will acquire grapes from an old Lodi family that has been growing prized fruit for many decades. I first discovered them in the early '90's. I found Mohr-Fry vineyards to be growing grapes to Napa Valley standards. Exceptional quality with excellent balance. I still use several grapes they grow for clients for whom I make wine. And I still use one of their youngest vineyards albeit about 25 years old. The grape is Sangiovese. This vineyard is quite amazing because over the years I have made award-winning Red and Rose wines from these grapes."

This offering is somewhat unique, based on rare American, California (not Napa Valley) Sangiovese. The specific label from this vintage calls this PureCru (Napa Valley) Rosso. The rear label denotes Lodi Sangiovese and mentions the Mohr-Fry vineyard sources. It states the blend is 89% Sangiovese and 11% Alicante Boushete.

Traditional Rosso comes from the Italian designation once called 'Vermiglio' (vermilion), Rosso di Montalcino, a dry, fruity red wine produced in the village of Montalcino in Tuscany. Rosso comes from the same area of origin as the prestigious Brunello di Montalcino, sharing the same Mediterranean climate and also based on 100% Sangiovese. 

In the modern era, Sangiovese is now blended with Bordeaux varietals in the Tuscany region in wines called Super Tuscans, a branding and wine style that has gained much notoriety and become very popular. As noted, this wine is a blend is 89% Sangiovese and 11% Alicante Boushete.

Somewhat opaque garnet colored, medium bodied, notes of black berry and black cherry fruits with tones of tobacco, black tea and hints of smoke and oak with a smooth moderate finish. 

RM 89 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4767044

As noted above, this Cellartracker record and label did not exist until I created it just now. 

https://www.purecruwines.com/

https://www.purecruwines.com/blog/Spotlight-on-Sangiovesse

https://www.mohrfry.com/

https://www.purecruwines.com/Wines

Hungry Blond Napa Chardonnay Fantesca Napa Cabernet

 Hungry Blond Napa Chardonnay and Fantesca Napa Cabernet for surf and turf dinner

Newlyweds Sean and Michelle joined us for an intimate dinner Linda prepared, serving lobster tails with cheese pasta and grilled tenderloin beef steaks. I pulled from our cellar two fun, special bottles of wine to commemorate the occasion, Hungry Blond Chardonnay and Fantesca Napa Cabernet.

Davis Estate Hungry Blonde Carneros Chardonnay 2016

 
This Hungry Blonde is the last bottle of several we special ordered last year. It was one of our favorite drinking everyday Chardonnays, a fun label to serve celebrating our two blonde daughters-in-law.

We discovered this wine from the winelist at Fiora Restaurant in Geneva during a lunch outing there last year during a pleasant summer afternoon outing. Interestingly, Sean now works out of an office nearby and walks past Fiora which lies between his office and the local trainstop on days he visits the office. 

 

At the time, I wrote about Davis Estate Hungry Blonde Carneros Chardonnay and how we liked it so much we went out and bought all the remaining inventory in local merchants, then special ordered more of this label, the then new vintage release.

"We love the distinctive taste profile of this full bodied, forward fruit filled Chardonnay. Jeb Dunnuck - jebdunnuck.com  said of the the 2015 release of this wine, "There's 2000 cases of the 2015 Chardonnay Hungry Blonde, and it's one seriously good Chardonnay.  It's the real deal and will keep for 5+ years. At 30 bucks it's a killer value." He gave it 94 points."

James Suckling gave the 2016 90 points. "A chardonnay with plenty of butter, apricot, flan and bread dough. There is good density to this and the acidity gives some form and clarity'"

Davis Estate Hungry Blonde Carneros Chardonnay 2016

Winemaker notes for the 2016, "Our Hungry Blonde Chardonnay is the perfect expression of cool-climate Napa Valley Chardonnay from the Carneros region. Inviting aromas of lemon zest and white flowers make way for waves of bosc pear, Tahitian vanilla, and baked apple tart. All held together with fresh acidity and a supple texture inviting another sip."

According to Wine Country Connection, Hungry Blonde is made by the well known Napa producer Cary Gott. The fruit comes from the Poe Vineyard, which sits adjacent to the world renowned Hyde Vineyard. Larry Hyde’s HDV Chardonnay, sells for $60.

 

Straw colored, full bodied, a rich concentrated buttery flavors that resemble butterscotch, notes of vanilla, oak and citrus fruits, stone fruit and white flowers. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3289150

 

Continuing the theme for the occasion, we served this whimsically named Napa Cab, another fun tribute to our new daughter-in-law. 

 

The elegant upscale Fantesca packaging and branding features etched and painted weighty bottles each explaining the namesake Fantesca. 

 

The name of the winery comes from a character in the Italian comedy troupe that inspired Cirque Du Soleil. La Fantesca was the single female character in the early theatrical performances of Commedia dell’Arte. Both the lover and the equal of the protagonist, Harlequin, Fantesca could always be counted on to charm the audience. Owners, Duane and Susan Hoff write that "when we heard Fantesca described as ”Sexy, Smart, and Unpretentious,” we knew we had found a name worth living up to."'

 

We visited the Fantesca Estate & Winery during our Napa Valley Spring Mountain Experience in the autumn of 2009, and earlier during our Napa Wine Experience 2007.

 

We first met owner/producer Dwayne Hoff when we hosted him in our home during his promotion tour to Chicago shortly after acquiring the Spring Mountain Estate. 

 

 

Fantesca Estate and Winery, Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2004.

Fantesca Napa Valley,
Spring Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon
Etched glass, painted bottle.
(2006 shown)

Medium-full bodied, dark garnet color; complex but smooth and polished with bright forward fruits of black currant, dark berry and cherry, accented by sweet dark chocolate, a hint of cassis, and a tone of spice on the lingering refined tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

As always, this was the blockbuster hit of the evening, a great complement to grilled beef tenderloin steaks.

http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=355836

http://www.fantesca.com

 

@FantescaWine -  https://twitter.com/FantescaWine

Magic Door Napa Cab

Confusion and Mystery Surround Magic Door (Napa Valley) Cabernet Sauvingon

Magic Door Napa Valley Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Magic Door is a collection of Napa Valley or other regional wines sourced from various producers and marketed under the private branded label under the negociant portfolio also more widely known as Ninety-Plus Cellars. Of Magic Door, they write, "Magic Door is a collection of small-production wines from esteemed wine regions and acclaimed vineyards around the globe. All wines are selected by the wine team behind 90+ Cellars."

Ninety-Plus Cellars assign a 'Lot Number' to each label to identify that distinctive offering and to follow that label from vintage to vintage. They break from that convention here and as a result that method of tracking or following a particular source of product is lost.

Here, Magic Door Napa Valley Cabernet 2017 is different from the 2105 release in that this is attributed to be sourced from Rutherford while the latter was said to be sourced from Oakville.

If they set upon this approach to add clarity, they've achieved the opposite in their less precise branding. I can only imagine they did this to add a sense of cache or elan to the brand, a premium level vs. the standard Ninety Plus Cellars.

However, if that were their objective, why would they associate the new Magic Door branding with the old Ninety Plus Cellars? I'm paying attention, I am in the dark as to their strategy. Hopefully this will be clarified through further research, correspondence or disclosures.


Of the 2015 Magic Door Cabernet they write, "This full-bodied Cabernet comes from a top producer in one of Napa's most elite AVAs. We were able to put together a small allocation of this wine under the Magic Door label, and at a price point that's just a fraction of what the source winery sells it for. Napa Cab lovers: prepare to indulge." The same could be said for the 2017 release, yet one is from Rutherford and the other from Oakville. Go figure.

As I research this further in Cellartracker, which often is a source of vast data with their millions of bottles in the collective cellar inventory of more than a hundred thousand collectors, the confusion or lack of clarity regarding this label is even more than I alluded to or imagined. Cellartracker shows Magic Door Cabernet Sauvignon represented in thirteen different labels from eight different vintages from 2010 to 2017 from four different regions or appellations - Columbia Valley, Red Mountain, Oakville and Rutherford.

I hope and expect Ninety Plus Cellars and Magic Door endeavor to clear this up.

Once again, the charter and mission of this unwindwine.blogspot.com blog is intended and directed at situations just such as this, studying, researching, unpicking and sorting, and hopefully clarifying - unwindwine - branding, labeling, marketing and distribution.

 This was dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, nicely structured blackberry and black currant fruits were accented by tones of mocha, cassis, hints of eucalyptus or cedar leading to soft smooth tannins on a lingering finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=341218

Ninety-Plus writes: "Oakville is one of the preeminent wine regions in America. It sits just north of the Yountville Mounts, a large hill which acts as a barrier to the cooling coastal influence of the San Pablo Bay. In Oakville, the wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon are less austere than examples made from grapes grown in Yountville to the south, but with more structure than wines made from fruit grown in Rutherford to the north."

C'est la vie; hopefully more to follow! 

http://www.magicdoorvineyards.com/

Marilyn Merlot 2016

Nova Wines "Marilyn Merlot" Napa Valley Merlot 2016

Wine geeks, oenophiles,  often take their passion for wine way too seriously, or certainly so to those not so compulsive or fixated, which is most folks. Its important to back it down and simply have fun with wine too.

This blog focuses on wine tasting and collecting. Another discussion thread is a study in wine branding and marketing. One unique approach is Marilyn Wines, of the entity Nova Wines, who have created an entire franchise on one celebrity identification theme based on a play on words - Marilyn Merlot featuring the iconic starlet Marilyn Monroe. Marilyn Wines holds an exclusive agreement with the estate of Marilyn Monroe for the use of the name and the images in their wine marketing and packaging.

The brand is the creation of Bob and Donna Holder of Rutherford in Napa Valley, who initially crafted a homemade Merlot back in 1983 using some purchased grapes and some grapes from the Holder property. They started selling their wine and created the brand.  In the early days, they purchased bulk wine, then, in 1997, they shifted from purchasing bulk wine to purchasing grapes. The wine is made at the Napa Wine Co. in Oakville, CA.

Marilyn Wines has extended the brand to a broad portfolio of labels based on Marilyn Monroe. In addition to Marilyn Merlot, they also produce Marilyn Meritage, Sauvignon Blond, Marilyn Cabernet and Norma Jean, a lesser label with 'younger' second label grapes. The brand has grown further with the release of Marilyn Merlot Rose and Marilyn Monroe Chardonnay.

Of course the most famous or notable iconic collector series is Mouton Rothschild. A study in wine branding and marketing at some point invites a discussion of art label series featuring original or reproductions of notable art or artists on the wine labels. No wine producer in the world captures the imagination or attention of wine collectors and wine art enthusiasts more than Mouton Rothschild with their annual artist series artist featured wine labels.

Each year a renowned artist is commissioned to do the artwork for that vintage. The featured artist is said to be paid ten cases of various vintages of the classic Chateau Mouton Rothschild for their work. Every collector dreams of collecting a 'vertical' collection (wines of multiple vintages of the same wine) of the classic premium First Growth Bordeaux to display the 'artwork' of Mouton.

My Winesite Label Library lists the Mouton Rothschild Label Library Series Artists and associated works by the artists for reference or to aid in further exploration or research of the library and its history.

As with Mouton Rothschild, I've assembled a portfolio of Marilyn labels in my label library on my winesite. 

The 2016 vintage release of Marilyn Merlot this annual feature label just appeared this week in stores in the Chicagoland market.  They also just released Norma Jeane, the 21st vintage of the Norma Jeane.

Playing on the name of the famous cinema starlet, Marilyn Monroe, the marketers at Nova Wines have  built the brand on an annual release of moderate priced Merlot varietal featuring an authentic Marilyn Monroe photo on the label. What might have started out as a whimsical or even corny idea has turned into a fun wine that has an almost cult following in some precincts of collectors.

The producer tries to maintain a delicate balance and moderate the hype of the collectability of the wine and the valuation of bottles over time versus the novelty and fun of the wine. It appears they've earnestly worked to improve the pedigree and quality of the product to produce a wine more worthy of and capable of long (er) term cellaring by sourcing from notable vineyard sources and producing a Red Bordeaux varietal blend. As such, the release price of the wine has crept up in recent years as well. This year's release price is $36 however the 'street price' still remains at the traditional price point in the $25 to $28 range.

The producer site says, "Each new vintage of Marilyn Monroe Merlot sells out quickly. While collectors have made Marilyn Monroe Merlot one of the fastest-appreciating wines on the market, it is wine enthusiasts with a sense of humor who have long enjoyed the playful spirit behind Marilyn Merlot wines that are now also seeking the Marilyn Monroe Merlot because of the emphasis on making a notable wine from prized Napa Valley grapes. While the concept and engaging label of these wines has given these bottles a degree of fame, it is the wine in the bottle that merits the enthusiasm of those who seek it out every year.'

"This wine is every bit as special as its package," says Donna Holder, one of the owners of Marilyn Wines. "It is a must for collectors, but is also a Napa Valley Merlot that stands beautifully on its own."

The producer promotes highly escalated prices for vintage bottles of the label asking high prices that far exceed the pedigree of the wine, explicable only due to the marketing/branding of the label collection. I know of one reputable wine shop in a mid-size midwestern city that until recently held a 1985 Marilyn Merlot that they were offering at $3500.

I've assembled a portfolio of Marilyn labels in my label library on my winesite. And, I admit I've collected a 'vertical' collection of the wine and am still holding what now spans fifteen vintages. Indeed, we drank a dozen year old 2006 recently and it was drinking quite nicely. We do have fun gifting these wines to friends for suitable occasions, great for those not into the wine so much, but taken by the clever packaging. The Marilyn Merlot label is now in its 32nd year.

The 2016 vintage release is a blend of 91% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, all from Napa Valley. The Vineyard source for the fruit in the 2016 vintage release wine is primarily from grapes from Andy Beckstoffer’s Missouri Hopper vineyard near Oakville with a supporting cast of vineyard sources in Napa Valley including merlot from St. Helena and Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena and Oak Knoll appellations.


The iconic photograph adorning the label for this 2016 release was taken by photographer Milton Greene of Marilyn Monroe in September, 1953. It features a extraordinary close-up photo of Marilyn in a large green sweater.

The Winemaker's Notes for this vintage: The 2016 Marilyn Merlot is a rich scarlet hue with purple tones that immediately catch one’s eye as it is poured in the glass. The aromas exhibit a complexity of characters, including but not limited to, cherries, cinnamon, plums, juniper berries and hints of mocha. This merlot has wonderful structure and weight on the palate, is well balanced with suitable tannins for aging. The flavors amplify the aromas with added nuances of tart, rich, blackberries, and vanilla. Very enjoyable now but will improve with 4-7 years of aging.

Try it and enjoy the novelty as well as the grape juice. Have fun with wine. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2720220

https://www.marilynwines.com/

Herman Story Nuts and Bolts Syrah 2013

Herman Story Nuts and Bolts Syrah 2013

Dining at son Ryan's for dinner, he opened this Herman Story Nuts and Bolts Syrah. I own several vintages of this wine including this vintage but have not tasted it so this was a treat to get a highly anticipated preview of this label.

This label from Russel From, Herman Story winemaker and proprietor  is a tribute label from one of those producer's with a sense of humor.

Every Herman Story label tells the story on the rear label, "Herman Story was a Rancher, Logger, Swapper, Banker, Philanthropist, a teller of tales and my Grandfather. - Russel From, winemaker, proprietor.:

This is a unique, creative and imaginative branding strategy. The entire portfolio of Herman Story wines have artistic photo art labels with various clever whimsical names such as Bolt Cutter, Milk & Honey, Casual Encounters, On the Road and this one, Nuts and Bolts, and a white Rhone blend called Tomboy, a 'white wine for the red wine drinker'.

The Herman Story lineup ...  each label tells a story ... an interesting library ... and of course the image art changes from vintage to vintage to make it more intriguing ...

  

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

Herman Story offer more ... including several vineyard designated or single varietal selections as well. 

I am normally not a huge fan of Paso Robles wines and I know this label regularly gets highest ratings, but this exceeded my expectations on all levels. I can't wait to delve deeper into the portfolio and sample more of their wines.

Herman Story "Nuts & Bolts" California Syrah 2013 

This is 100% Syrah sourced from estate vineyards and select growers from the greater Central Coast region. This is a big bold expressive powerful bruiser that packs jammy flavorful fruit but is approachable, delicious and delightful to drink. Its not for the feint of heart but is smooth enough for casual sipping, or stands up to hearty cheeses and BBQ.

This vintage release got 96 points from Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and 92 points from Vinous.

Robert Parker writes, "A wine that stood out in my Paso Robles tasting was the 2013 Syrah Nuts and Bolts. Made from 100% Syrah that saw 16 months in 70% new French oak, it's the greatest vintage of this cuvee I've tasted and it offers off the hook notes of creme de cassis, melted licorice, caramelized meats, pepper and crushed flowers. Full-bodied, voluptuous and hedonistic, it's also seamless and balanced, with ultra-fine tannin, no hard edges and blockbuster length."

Winemaker Russell From says, "It is a no holds barred expression of Syrah that chases flavor at nearly any cost."

Dark inky purple, full bodied, concentrated structured full flavorful fruits but nicely balanced and approachable, black and blue fruits with notes of spice, cherry cola notes, hints of black olive and pepper.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2028299

https://www.hermanstorywines.com/

Del Dotto Sangiovese for Family Lasagna Dinner

Del Dotto Sangiovese for Family Lasagna Dinner

With the family gathered for the Holiday weekend, Linda prepared baked Lasagna for a gala dinner and I pulled from the cellar two Italian varietal Sangiovese based wines - Del Dotto Piazza Sangiovese and David Arthur Merritaggio. The comparison illustrated contrasting styles and profiles of two wines based on the same core.

Del Dotto is a family favorite paying tribute to the close knit family there, and our family having 'grown up' with the brand over the years, and many of us having visited Del Dotto during our many visits to Napa Valley.

Del Dotto Napa Valley Sangiovese 1998 - 2016

I have written often in these pages about Del Dotto pioneering Sangiovese in Napa Valley back in the late nineties under the collaboration with legendary winemaker Nils Venge. Del Dotto continues their lineage of Sangiovese wines with this offering under the Piazza label, the recent addition to the growing list of Del Dotto brands.

We discovered the Piazza brand during our Del Dotto Estate Cave Tour and Tasting during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017. We then targeted the just opened Piazza Winery Delicacies Wine and Food Tasting Experience during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2018. It was the highlight of our entire Napa trip. We tasted and acquired this 2015 release during our Cave Tour tasting.

For the record and for reference for anyone tracking such details, the Cellartracker dossier, our inventory management system and normally reliable reference guide, is confused and misguided on this wine. It contains two references to this wine, both partially right and wrong. It lists the wine twice, Del Dotto Piazza Sangiovese and Del Dotto Sangiovese Piazza. For the first, it lists vintages 1999, 2003 (wrong) and 2013, '15 and 2016 (correct). For the latter it correctly lists 2013, '14, '15 and 2016, and errantly lists 1998 and 2003.

Del Dotto offered Napa Valley Sangiovese under the historic flagship 'David' label (shown right) from 1998 through 2003 and also appeared as Rutherford Estate Sangiovese 2013. (The 1998 label is shown here. The 1999 label calls it St Helena Sangiovese. We tasted and acquired these wine during our Del Dotto Napa Estate visit and Del Dotto Wine Producer Dinner back in 1999, and again at our Napa Wine Experience in 2003.

Del Dotto then offered Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Blend Sangiovese under the Cave Blend brand from 2004 through 2016. I believe Cellartracker references to this label from 2001 are in error and should refer to the 'David' branding. There is no photo evidence of this (Cave Blend 2001) label in the Cellartracker library or in internet searches.

The Piazza brand appeared with the 2013 release and continues to this day.

Del Dotto Vineyards was established in 1990 when David and Yolanda Del Dotto planted vineyards on 17 acres in Rutherford at the homestead Estate on the corner of Highway 29 and Zinfandel Lane in Napa Valley. It truly is a family affair with David's father John being involved in the early days, and daughter Desiree and son Giovanni being involved in the business and having their own labels as well. I had the pleasure of meeting John back in the late nineties and working with Desiree as she took on marketing duties during that era.

Rick and Linda with David Del Dotto circa 2003

The Del Dotto first release vintage was 1993. Since then the estate has grown significantly to 437 acres of vineyards producing 8,000-12,000 cases annually. Around 2010, the Del Dotto brand expanded further with the release of Villa Del Lago, an ultra-premium label from Pritchard Hill.

Indeed, Del Dotto is one of the largest holdings in our cellar dating back to the inaugural vintage release back in 1993. Our association with Del Dotto dates back to our Napa Wine Experiences and wine producer and winemaker dinners back in the mid-nineties.




Del Dotto Piazza Napa Valley Sangiovese 2015

This was delicious and everyone loved it making me wish I had more than the single case we acquired last year. I'll be looking for more.

We tasted and acquired this wine during our Del Dotto Estate Cave Tour and Tasting last year. Our first recorded tasting note was just three months ago when we took it took it BYOB to our favorite neighborhood Italian Trattoria, Angelis Italian. Tonight's tasting experience was consistent with my notes from that evening (caution about the color and slight opaqueness aside, which was not present tonight.)

My notes from previous tasting three months ago. "This was dark garnet colored ((with a slight grayish hue that signaled caution but the wine was fine, we'll monitor the next bottle (s) with interest to see if this is an early warning of trouble ahead) (as noted, this was not present tonight)); medium full bodied, this was delicious with sweet ripe raspberry fruits accented by notes of vanilla and almond with supple smooth silky tannins on the lingering finish.


RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2579868

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/08/del-dotto-piazza-sangiovese-at-angelis.html

We also opened this second wine, a Sangiovese based blend.

David Arthur Napa Valley Meritaggio 2003

David Arthur is typically known for premium Estate Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from vineyards on Pritchard Hill overlooking southeast Napa Valley. We visited the winery during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2013.

This is a serious wine with fun name - Meritaggio is a play on the word Meritage - a US trademarked moniker for a Bordeaux Blend - a red blend of Bordeaux varietals. This is a rendition of a Sangiovese based Bordeaux style blend, with fruit sourced from Napa Valley. As such, this was more complex than the single varietal Sangiovese, and more akin to the traditional Italian Sangiovese based wines - more earthy - leathery and a touch of cedar. This exceeded expectations with vibrant bright flavored dark and red berry fruits with layers of complementary flavors. Complex and sophisticated but easy drinking wine.

Dark garnet color - full bodied - bright, vibrant, rich, mouthful of black raspberry, currant, ripe plum, layer of anise and hint of spice, smoke, cedar and leather with nicely integrated fine tannins.

RM 93 points.

http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=85665

Spring Valley Vineyards Frederick Red Blend

Spring Valley Vineyards Frederick Red Blend

Following our Walla Walla (Washington) AVA Wine Experience week before last, and our visits to Spring Valley Vineyards vineyards and tasting room, we opened this  Spring Valley Vineyards Frederick Red Bordeaux Blend for a grilled steak dinner.

As written in my Spring Valley Vineyards blogpost, the branding of Spring Valley wines is based on the rich family history and heritage. The wine portfolio is comprised of labels named for family members dating back to Uriah Corkrum, who is the inspiration and namesake of their Uriah label, their Right Bank Bordeaux Blend. Their other Bordeaux Blend, a Cabernet based blend in the Left Bank style is this Frederick, named for Uriah's son, father of current vineyard owner Shari Corkrum Derby.

Meeting Dean Derby, son-in-law of Frederick was one of the highlights of our Walla Walla wine region experience. Dean and Shari Corkrum Derby started planting the first grapes at Spring Valley in 1993 and the first vintage of Estate grown and bottled Spring Valley Vineyard wines were released with the 1999 vintage.

We tasted the latest current release of this label, Frederick Red Wine Blend 2015 in the Spring Valley Vineyards tasting room there downtown Walla Walla. This evening we opened a vintage bottle from our cellar ten years older from the 2005 vintage.


Spring Valley Vineyard Walla Walla Columbia Valley Frederick Red Bordeaux Blend 2005 -

Dark inky color, full bodied, big, firm, complex but balanced, brooding ripe sweet dark berry - blackberry & black raspberry fruit flavors, tones of cassis, spice, lead pencil - firm but smooth nicely integrated polished tannins on a full lingering finish.

As I have been writing in my blogposts on Washington wines, like many of the other high quality labels coming from the region, this represents high QPR (quality price ratio) relative to comparable wines from the stories more established Bordeaux or Napa Valley regions.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=425182

At thirteen years of age, this wine is likely at the apex of its drinking window and won't likely improve any further with age, but it should last another five years before falling off, and should be consumable for a decade yet. I wish I had more to try over that time. Pick up this label when you get a chance.

https://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/


 

Walt Sonoma Coast Grgich Blue Beret Chardonnays

Walt Sonoma Coast, Grgich Blue Beret Chardonnays BYOB for Longboard's Lobster Fest

Passing through Orange County on my west coast roadshow, I stayed with Sister Jan and Bro-in-law Bill in Huntington Beach. We went downtown where they were holding their Tuesday evening festival.

We dined at the legendary Longboard bar where they are featuring Lobster Feast '18 for the fall. We picked up some Chardonnay up the street to take BYOB, Walt Sonoma Coast, and Grgich Blue Beret Napa, 2016's.

The Walt wine brand is from Hall Wines in Napa, named for Kathryn Hall's maiden name and her parents, Bob and Dolores Walt who were dedicated winegrowers. The Walt family produced six different varietals that they sold to several notable wineries.

We tasted a Walt Pinot Noir at the recent Kathryn Hall regional release tour in Chicago. That was a vineyard designated select label from Bob's Ranch vineyard on the Sonoma Coast. While this Chardonnay is designated Sonoma Coast, the rear label cites Bob's Ranch Vineyard as one of the sources for this bottling, a blend from numerous sources from the area.

Hall Vineyards Walt Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2016

The winemaker notes: "Our Sonoma Coast Chardonnay sources from cool climate vineyards located near the influence of coastal breezes within the Sonoma wind gap. Notes of lush tropical fruit and vanilla lead to a palate of stone fruit and citrus, bolstered by lively acidity and underscored by toasty oak."

This was bright lively and full bodied, ideal for pleasurable sipping, and perfect for the lobster fest dinner accompaniment.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2852784

https://www.waltwines.com/ 

Our second wine for the dinner, this was lighter and less complex than the Walt. It might have been fine for the dinner but after drinking the Walt, it was diminished by comparison.

Grgich Hills Estate "Blue Beret" Napa Valley Chardonnay 2016

Miljenko “Mike” Grgich is a legend in the wine world and Napa Valley. He gained international recognition at the celebrated 'Paris Tasting of 1976' known as the Judgement of Paris, the historic blind tasting by a panel of eminent French judges did a comparison tasted of notable French wines opposite selections from upstart California Napa Valley. When their scores were tallied, the French judges were shocked to learn they had chosen the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, crafted by Mike Grgich,  as the finest white wine in the world. The results stunned the international wine establishment and immediately earned Mike a reputation as one of the greatest winemakers in the world. The story chronicled in the book 'Judgement of Paris' and is told in a fantastic pop culture movie 'Bottle Shock'.

Thirty two years later, in 2008, 93 year Mike Grgich was was inducted into the Vintners Hall of Fame in honor of his many contributions to the wine industry. He hallmark is a sporting blue beret. Hence, this whimsical 'Blue Beret' label designated Estate Napa Valley Chardonnay.

Curiously, I find no reference to this label on the Grgich wines website, nor even on Cellartracker with its five million labels, only several postings from restaurant winelists. Perhaps its too early in its release cycle but wouldn't you think the producer would at least feature it? Its invisible in web postings to date. All I can think is that they consider this their 'generic' Napa Estate Chardonnay, but the Blue Beret is prominently featured on the label in a branding effort, that is clearly falling short in promotion and execution.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2717448

https://www.grgich.com/

Afterwards, we picked up some artisan chocolates and took home to enjoy with an after dinner big red wine.

Caymus Estate Cab Anniversary

Caymus Estate Cab Anniversary Branding Caps Day in the City Outing and Celebration Dinner

A couple years ago, in 2014, the well know Napa Valley producer Caymus changed their longstanding label branding and associated packaging to commemorate their 40th anniversary. One of the notable packaging elements was a prominent '40' on the top of the foil. It just so happens that Caymus' anniversary aligns with our wedding anniversary so we served the 40th commemorative bottle at several family dinners including a gala family celebration dinner in honor of our 40th.

So it was only fitting that Linda and I selected a Caymus '43' Cabernet for a special anniversary dinner outing together. We ventured into Chicago for the day to celebrate the end of summer and it turned into an all day outing, culminating in a upscale dinner at Chicago Cut Steakhouse on the Chicago River.

The plan was to head into the city, have lunch and then take in the Gauguin exhibit at the Art Institute of Chicago, one of our favorite city destinations.  We are long time members and make it a point to take in all the special exhibits. We get much joy from, appreciate and take advantage of our proximity to AIC which is truly a world class attraction, having been selected as the #1 museum in the world by Tripadvisor, a major travel site.

We ventured in looking for a place we could eat al fresco enroute or downtown. We researched and explored 'Little Italy' which we used to enjoy decades ago but had lost track of it. We've determined that the Little Italy as we used to know it doesn't exist any more having given way to the influx of Latinos taking over the near southwest side which has become Little village, Mexico of the Midwest, and the growth and spread of the University of Illinois at Chicago, and the emergence of the hip new University Village area, and the expansion of the Illinois Medical District on the near west south side.

Seeking a new adventure, we sidestepped several of our usual favorites in the area such as Chez Joel on Taylor Street, and May Street Cafe down in Pilsen. We ended up at Lagunitas Brewery north of the Little Village Neighborhood in what is actually Douglas Park neighborhood, tucked away above the BNSF railroad, in the industrial district to the east of the Douglas Park.

We had the address and set out for the site from University Village area and wandered through Little Village meadering back and forth across the railroad line a couple times as we headed west.

We had no idea what to expect and were amazed at the size of the facility and operations and hospitality areas that included of the Brewhouse Tap Restaurant overlooking the brewery and bottling packaging operations below.

Amazingly, this has become a destination in its own right. The anticipation of what is to come is heightened by the spectacle of the long access hallways, the second with long velvet ropes set up to accompany large crowds. We took in lunch and then opted for a self guided tour rather than the formal guided affair.

After the Gauguin exhibit we walked the new River Walk along the south bank of the Chicago River. The energy of the crowds, boat traffic, revelers, and multiple wedding parties was amazing as the city has clearly taken to this new attraction, from the water as well as by land. Clearly both feed on each other creating a vibrant spectacle. Not wanting it to end, we ventured across the river to Chicago Cut Steakhouse for a riverside table view wine and dine experience overlooking the river from the upper level.

The parade of boat traffic seemed to be endless as the tour boats were each completely full with folks taking in the scenery of the spectacular architecture and the whole river scene on the last holiday weekend of summer.

Its was with a sense of great pride and fun to share our wonderful city with visitors from around the world as we noted that it almost seemed that English was a second language among the throngs of people taking in the scene. At dinner we sat adjacent to French speaking visitors from Montreal as well as folks from neighboring Indiana and Michigan.

Caymus Estate '43' Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

The Caymus was dark garnet/purple colored, full bodied, with rich concentrated dense vibrant blackberry, black raspberry and blue berry fruits; initial alcohol heat that burns off with decanting and some settling time, notes of cassis and hint of sweet vanilla with silky smooth tannins on the long lingering finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2569303

The Caymas cab was a perfect accompaniment to our Chicago Cut prime filet steaks, perfectly prepared in my favorite 'Pittsburgh style', with sides of creamed spinach and whipped potatoes. The Kale and Quinoa salad with candied nuts and fruits was fabulous.

Caymus is one of our favorite Napa Cabs with it smooth polished but bold vibrant style. Caymus is known for early accessible drinking but also can be aged for further maturation in the bottle. While not known for its aging potential, we've held Caymus for close to twenty years for mature fine drinking enjoyment.

As is tooo often the case, Chicago Cut served our wine too warm, such that we actually had them put our red wine in an ice bucket to bring it down to appropriate serving temperature. When you're paying 2x plus times retail for a wine, its not unreasonable to expect ideal service with appropriate glassware, decanting and proper serving temperature. I don't know why this is so difficult for so many restaurants. Its unacceptable when paying $175 for a bottle of 'moderate' priced wine on the wine list to expect it at appropriate temperature for consumption, but it happens much too often.

We enjoy drinking our wine at proper cellar temperature which at 58-63 degrees is ten to fifteen degrees below room temperature, not room temp or above. We keep our home cellar even cooler at about 53 degrees and find it ideal for our drinking pleasure as well as for long term storage. Amazingly, more than once we've been served expensive bottles of fine wine, that were brought from a storage area adjacent to the kitchen, well above room temperature. Restaurants serious about their wine service (and expecting high price points and associated margins) should be held accountable, and should know better.

A great memorable special day in our beloved Chicago.

http://www.caymus.com/

http://www.chicagocutsteakhouse.com/

http://www.artic.edu/

https://lagunitas.com/taprooms/chicago#

Louis Martini Alexander Valley 14 - Melka CJ 04 Napa Cabs

Louis Martini Alexander Valley 2014 and Melka CJ 2004 Cabernet

For a belated birthday dinner for his mother, son Ryan invited us over for dinner with the kids and grandkids. He served grilled Prime New York strip steaks, asparagus and baked potatoes. With dinner, he served the just released Louis Martini Alexander Valley Cabernet 2014 that got a rave 97 point review from Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate. I brought a Melka CJ Napa Cab 2004.

While such a stratospheric rating is cause for notice and worth checking out, its often in the eye of the beholder and not necessarily consensus opinion. I found the Martini a good wine from a good vintage, offering good (but not extraordinary) value QPR (quality price ratio), not extraordinary in any way.

The Martini was a great accompaniment to the grilled steaks. It had a firm structured backbone core of smooth approachable tannins, but I didn't find it to back it up with the dense, rich full body and concentrated fruits cited by Parker. It was garnet colored, medium full bodied, black currant and black cherry fruits, accented by tones of black tea, tobacco leaf, smoke and glycerin.

I would not say it calls for one to rush out and buy it and try it. With 11000 cases available, it will be available in distribution, and will face competition from many other great wines that roll out from what will be a top rated vintage with many high achievers. A good buyer's market since Bordeaux will also be releasing a highly rated vintage this year as well.

RM 90 points. 

Parker wrote - "... this big, full-bodied, boisterous Cabernet Sauvignon (that) has a dense ruby/purple color, notes of underbrush, forest floor, tobacco leaf and oodles of blackcurrants and black cherries, with a touch of woodsmoke. The full-bodied wine hits the palate with a cascade of glycerin, fruit and purity. This is a beauty – dense, rich, and structured, but capable of lasting 20 or more years."

The Wine Advocate. 97 Points. Robert M. Parker Jr. October 2016

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2506134

Peter Melka 'CJ' Napa Valley Cabernet 2004

For dinner with the kids and two grandkids, I was drawn to bring this label that is a namesake celebration tribute to Melka's two children, Chloe and Jeremy. Indeed, Melka writes on the rear label, "CJ reflects the balance and harmony that Chloe and Jeremy bring to the Melka family." The messaging and fun branding is reinforced with the 'children's' handprints represented on the label and on the wine capsule (shown below).

 

The 2004 Melka is dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, with subdued but nicely balanced black berry fruits with tones of spicy oak, hints of dark mocha, sweet vanilla, tea and tobacco leaf with moderate lingering tannins on the modest finish. 

Blend of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 93% and Cabernet Franc 7%.

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=283194

https://www.melkawines.com/

Old Rip Van Winkle Bourbon

Old Rip Van Winkle Bourbon

With son Alec visiting from NYC for the holiday, we did some day-after shopping wherein I stopped and picked up some special order wines at the local wine shop. We stopped in the local Binny's beverage superstore in Naperville where the GM offered us this one and only remaining bottle of this hard to get, highly allocated, limited production Old Rip Van Winkle Bourbon.

Alec knew he was on to something when he later posted the purchase on social media and immediately got a groundswell of responses.

While this blog is typically about wine and has never commented on whisky, it's also about branding, and this label offers a classic study in such.

As with wine, there are certain labels that command an almost cult-like following, where demand vastly exceeds availability. More often, the aura or cache' associated with such a label drives up the price such that it commands a higher price-point than otherwise less noted brands.

Old Rip Van Winkle rides on the coat-tails or in the wake of the producer's flagship premium label, Pappy Van Winkle, which is clearly one of those brands that command a huge following and a robust secondary market. A Washington Post article from 2014 featured the headline, "Pappy Van Winkle’s aged bourbon can’t keep pace with consumer demand" was devoted to the phenomenon.

The article speaks of the secondary market for the label where prices are geometrically inflated, like tickets to a hot concert or finals sporting event. It talks of lotteries set up by certain merchants to fairly distribute their precious highly sought after allocation to patrons. And it speaks of a bottle that sold on e-Bay for $108, an empty bottle! In summation, "The search for Van Winkle has inspired a song, a blog, an app and a delirious secondary market where a bottle has fetched as much as $2,600."

Like many highest revered wine labels, and vintages. the label has received highest acclaim by those that rate such things. In 1996, the 20-year-old Pappy received an unprecedented 99 whiskey rating from the venerable Beverage Tasting Institute. Indeed, all three labels in the brand, this Old Rip Van Winkle (10 year), as well as the Van Winkle Special Reserve (12 year) and Family Reserve Rye (13 year) have collected superb ratings and multiple awards. This only adds to the mystique, as if to legitimatize or rationalize the demand, but what is the cause, becomes the effect.

In the end, the Post article attributes the demand curve to the global demand for things of scarcity and quality. The ultra-premium wine market saw this spike in auction prices a couple years ago. I admit, I unloaded some of my coveted collectable bottles then, in retrospect, at the peak of the irrational exuberance for such, which has since subsided and not been seen since.

The producers are apologetic about the after market pricing effects on their website, "... unfortunately, some retailers choose to use this demand as a reason to increase their pricing. We know it’s often sold for far beyond our suggested retail prices, which you can find on the product pages of this site." Such practices go contrary to the producer's founder's philosophy and mission statement, prominently displayed on their homepage, "We make fine bourbon, At a profit if we can, At a loss if we must, but always, Fine Bourbon."

Such is the aura of this label, that when I visit the local wineshop, where I am a known patron, collector and frequent shopper, the manager takes me aside and with a sense of clandestine acts, shows me a special bottle that he is holding under the desk, behind the counter, and offers it to me as if it is highly coveted contraband. 

Old Rip Van Winkle bourbon is perhaps best known for the highly sought-after Pappy Van Winkle releases, which are today distilled under contract at Buffalo Trace distillery.

There have been Van Winkles in whiskey since 1893, beginning with the original Julian Van Winkle, known as Pappy, a consummate salesman and character. During the latter part of the nineteenth century, Julian P ‘Pappy’ Van Winkle Sr worked as a salesman for the alcohol wholesaler W L Weller and Sons in Louisville, Kentucky. Van Winkle and Alex Farnsley acquired the business along with the Stitzel Distillery. They merged the two businesses to form the Stitzel-Weller Distillery, producing such bourbons as Old Fitzgerald and W L Weller. Pappy Van Winkle’s son Julian Jr managed the business following his father’s death in 1965.

The Van Winkle label was launched after the family was forced, by stockholder pressure in 1972, to sell the famed Stitzel-Weller distillery, producer of the W.L. Weller, Old Fitzgerald, Rebel Yell and Cabin Still labels. In the following years, Van Winkle whiskey has been produced as a joint venture with the Sazerac Co. Since then, the entire range of labels are produced at the Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, Kentucky.

Today, the third-generation Van Winkle sits in the Louisville office that he shares with his son, the firm’s two sole employees, turning down ardent buyers from all over the globe. There have been four generations of Van Winkles working for the brand since Julian Van Winkle III’s son Preston joined in 2001.

One of the distinguishing characteristics of bourbon sold under the Van Winkle label is their extended aging which is more than double the average age of standard bourbon.

According to the producer's notes, "See a rich, copper color. Smell enticingly sweet, spicy, caramel-nut-fudge aromas. Enjoy a fruity, medium-to full-bodied palate with intense dried fruit and toasted nuts notes. Each sip finishes with a very long, bold wave of peppery brown spices, floral honey and charred barrel flavors that balance the weight of the alcohol. It’s a big, bold, aged bourbon that has great balance for its high proof and flavor."

So it was that we had a special father-son experience, a holiday tasting of this special libation. We tasted this neat, (without ice or water). The Rip Van Winkle was incredibly smooth, the sweet caramel tones predominated with hints of coconut, vanilla and nutmeg on the silky sweet finish.

http://www.oldripvanwinkle.com/