Birthyear Bordeaux bottle celebrates new grand-daughter

Birthyear Bordeaux bottle celebrates new grand-daughter - welcome Lavender !

First family photo with Lavender

Celebrating the birth of our granddaughter Lavender, to son Sean and daughter-in-law Michelle, we pulled a birthyear bottle for toasting with some artisan cheeses and fruits. 

I pulled from the cellar a St Julien Bordeaux from one of the producers we visited during our trip there back in 2018, Château Gruaud Larose. 

Those wines we tasted then (from the barrel) are now being released and we've acquired a flight of those labels to commemorate our memorable trip in future tastings. This also extends our vertical collection of these wines.

One of the highlights of that trip was a tour and tasting at the magnificent estate of  Château Gruaud Larose on the outskirts of the village of Beychevelle St Julien. 

Linda and Rick at
Château Gruaud Larose

We hold more than two dozen vintages of this wine dating back more than three decades including birthyear bottles of our kids' vintages, taking advantage of the long term cellaring age-worthiness of this producer. 

We opened bottles of this label last year celebrating Sean and Michelle's wedding, and three years ago leading up to our trip to Bordeaux. 

Tonight's tasting was consistent with those most recent tastings, showing the progression of aging and the differences between aging in a magnum, standard and split size bottles, the larger bottles aging better and showing slightly better as well. 

This release was awarded 93 points by Wine Spectator, 92 points by Neal Martin's Wine Journal, 91 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 90 points by Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar.

Tonight we tasted this from a 375ml small format split (shown left), ideal for simple casual sipping with cheeses and snacks, but less than ideal for aging / cellaring. Its time to drink these up, they are still holding on at 36 years, amazingly, but past their prime, showing their age and continuing to diminish from aging. 

The fill level was ideal for its age, to be expected, near the bottom of the neck, the label and foil were in good condition, and the cork was also ideal, especially for its age. 

My notes from last year - tasted from a magnum: "Dark garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, a bit closed and slightly subdued complex, ripe earthy blackberry and black current fruits with tones of tobacco leaf, truffle, hints of cassis and spice box, turning to slightly tart black cherry on the long floral full tannin laced finish."

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/09/big-bottle-birthyear-mania-for-wedding.html

And, my notes from three years ago, in 2018, tasted from a standard size bottle:

Showing its age a bit as the fruit has fallen off a bit and the dark ruby garnet colored is showing a bit of brickish rust color with a bit of opacity - medium bodied, this opened with a hint of that fragrant floral bouquet which is giving way to more earthy leather and tones of mushroom and tapenade.

Earthy blackberry fruit is overshadowed by tones of tobacco leaf, truffle, mushroom and spice box, turning to slightly tart black cherry on the long floral full tannin laced finish.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/05/pichon-lalande-gruaud-larose-1985.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=20848

https://www.gruaud-larose.com/

 

 

Marilyn Merlot 2016

Nova Wines "Marilyn Merlot" Napa Valley Merlot 2016

Wine geeks, oenophiles,  often take their passion for wine way too seriously, or certainly so to those not so compulsive or fixated, which is most folks. Its important to back it down and simply have fun with wine too.

This blog focuses on wine tasting and collecting. Another discussion thread is a study in wine branding and marketing. One unique approach is Marilyn Wines, of the entity Nova Wines, who have created an entire franchise on one celebrity identification theme based on a play on words - Marilyn Merlot featuring the iconic starlet Marilyn Monroe. Marilyn Wines holds an exclusive agreement with the estate of Marilyn Monroe for the use of the name and the images in their wine marketing and packaging.

The brand is the creation of Bob and Donna Holder of Rutherford in Napa Valley, who initially crafted a homemade Merlot back in 1983 using some purchased grapes and some grapes from the Holder property. They started selling their wine and created the brand.  In the early days, they purchased bulk wine, then, in 1997, they shifted from purchasing bulk wine to purchasing grapes. The wine is made at the Napa Wine Co. in Oakville, CA.

Marilyn Wines has extended the brand to a broad portfolio of labels based on Marilyn Monroe. In addition to Marilyn Merlot, they also produce Marilyn Meritage, Sauvignon Blond, Marilyn Cabernet and Norma Jean, a lesser label with 'younger' second label grapes. The brand has grown further with the release of Marilyn Merlot Rose and Marilyn Monroe Chardonnay.

Of course the most famous or notable iconic collector series is Mouton Rothschild. A study in wine branding and marketing at some point invites a discussion of art label series featuring original or reproductions of notable art or artists on the wine labels. No wine producer in the world captures the imagination or attention of wine collectors and wine art enthusiasts more than Mouton Rothschild with their annual artist series artist featured wine labels.

Each year a renowned artist is commissioned to do the artwork for that vintage. The featured artist is said to be paid ten cases of various vintages of the classic Chateau Mouton Rothschild for their work. Every collector dreams of collecting a 'vertical' collection (wines of multiple vintages of the same wine) of the classic premium First Growth Bordeaux to display the 'artwork' of Mouton.

My Winesite Label Library lists the Mouton Rothschild Label Library Series Artists and associated works by the artists for reference or to aid in further exploration or research of the library and its history.

As with Mouton Rothschild, I've assembled a portfolio of Marilyn labels in my label library on my winesite. 

The 2016 vintage release of Marilyn Merlot this annual feature label just appeared this week in stores in the Chicagoland market.  They also just released Norma Jeane, the 21st vintage of the Norma Jeane.

Playing on the name of the famous cinema starlet, Marilyn Monroe, the marketers at Nova Wines have  built the brand on an annual release of moderate priced Merlot varietal featuring an authentic Marilyn Monroe photo on the label. What might have started out as a whimsical or even corny idea has turned into a fun wine that has an almost cult following in some precincts of collectors.

The producer tries to maintain a delicate balance and moderate the hype of the collectability of the wine and the valuation of bottles over time versus the novelty and fun of the wine. It appears they've earnestly worked to improve the pedigree and quality of the product to produce a wine more worthy of and capable of long (er) term cellaring by sourcing from notable vineyard sources and producing a Red Bordeaux varietal blend. As such, the release price of the wine has crept up in recent years as well. This year's release price is $36 however the 'street price' still remains at the traditional price point in the $25 to $28 range.

The producer site says, "Each new vintage of Marilyn Monroe Merlot sells out quickly. While collectors have made Marilyn Monroe Merlot one of the fastest-appreciating wines on the market, it is wine enthusiasts with a sense of humor who have long enjoyed the playful spirit behind Marilyn Merlot wines that are now also seeking the Marilyn Monroe Merlot because of the emphasis on making a notable wine from prized Napa Valley grapes. While the concept and engaging label of these wines has given these bottles a degree of fame, it is the wine in the bottle that merits the enthusiasm of those who seek it out every year.'

"This wine is every bit as special as its package," says Donna Holder, one of the owners of Marilyn Wines. "It is a must for collectors, but is also a Napa Valley Merlot that stands beautifully on its own."

The producer promotes highly escalated prices for vintage bottles of the label asking high prices that far exceed the pedigree of the wine, explicable only due to the marketing/branding of the label collection. I know of one reputable wine shop in a mid-size midwestern city that until recently held a 1985 Marilyn Merlot that they were offering at $3500.

I've assembled a portfolio of Marilyn labels in my label library on my winesite. And, I admit I've collected a 'vertical' collection of the wine and am still holding what now spans fifteen vintages. Indeed, we drank a dozen year old 2006 recently and it was drinking quite nicely. We do have fun gifting these wines to friends for suitable occasions, great for those not into the wine so much, but taken by the clever packaging. The Marilyn Merlot label is now in its 32nd year.

The 2016 vintage release is a blend of 91% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, all from Napa Valley. The Vineyard source for the fruit in the 2016 vintage release wine is primarily from grapes from Andy Beckstoffer’s Missouri Hopper vineyard near Oakville with a supporting cast of vineyard sources in Napa Valley including merlot from St. Helena and Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena and Oak Knoll appellations.


The iconic photograph adorning the label for this 2016 release was taken by photographer Milton Greene of Marilyn Monroe in September, 1953. It features a extraordinary close-up photo of Marilyn in a large green sweater.

The Winemaker's Notes for this vintage: The 2016 Marilyn Merlot is a rich scarlet hue with purple tones that immediately catch one’s eye as it is poured in the glass. The aromas exhibit a complexity of characters, including but not limited to, cherries, cinnamon, plums, juniper berries and hints of mocha. This merlot has wonderful structure and weight on the palate, is well balanced with suitable tannins for aging. The flavors amplify the aromas with added nuances of tart, rich, blackberries, and vanilla. Very enjoyable now but will improve with 4-7 years of aging.

Try it and enjoy the novelty as well as the grape juice. Have fun with wine. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2720220

https://www.marilynwines.com/

Paradigm 1995 Oakville Cab

Paradigm 1995 Oakville Cab

My overseas flight arrangements were disrupted and rescheduled so I had four hours to chill before heading back to the airport. I pulled from the cellar a half bottle 'split' of this aged Paradigm Napa Cab to enjoy with some artisan cheese and biscuits. Its convenient to keep on hand 375ml half bottles for occasions where a couple of glasses suffices and opening a full bottle is too much.

Paradigm Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1995

We tasted and acquired this wine during our Napa Valley Wine Experience visit to the Estate back in 1999. I last wrote in these pages abour Paradigm and our visit in March of this year.

In 2010 I tasted this release and wrote: "Fragrant, soft supple tannin, medium body, the layers of cherry and black currant fruit are being overtaken by earthy leather, licorice, and herbs, with under-currants of spice and cedar."

Three years later, my last notation on this release, I wrote I had consistent tasting experience.

Five years later, at 24 years of age, this wine is showing its age and is in the last phase of its acceptable drinking window.

Tonight, the color is starting to give way taking on a faint and subtle but apparent rust brown tinge. The nose is beginning to take on a slight barnyard dry grass funk, and the fruits are starting to give way further to non fruit notes of earth, smoke, creosote, and leather, with the still apparent notes of licorice, spice and cedar. This was tasted from a 375ml half bottle which may have contributed to the diminution from aging, as smaller bottles age less well than larger format bottles.

RM 86 points,

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/

After Dinner Trio - El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010 Warres Filhot

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010 stands up to after dinner wine flight medley that includes a Warre's Vintage Port and a Chateau Filhot Vintage Sauterne Dessert Wine  

Following our Chicago Restaurant Week dinner at Vie Restaurant in Western Springs we came home and had some chocolates, fruits and cheeses with a trio of after dinner wines - a Warre's vintage port, a Chateau Filhot Sauterne dessert wine and Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010.  

As shown, the two dessert wines were from 375 ml half bottles. 

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010 

After tasting the Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2014 at the Corkscrew wine shop in Springfield last week, I was inquisitive to try another vintage so I pulled the oldest one from our cellar, the 2010. 

Amazingly this big bold red blend stood up to the trio of wines that included the Warres single vineyard vintage port and the Sauterne.

I thought the older Clio was even better and liked it even more than the '14, perhaps since it was four years older and more settled, but also, because I thought the 2010 was more complex with notes of ripe sweet blue fruit to complement the layer of concentrated full bodied black raspberry, and with a bit more sweetness which I also like. Still, like the 2014, it also had that dark chocolate, hint of vanilla, almost caramel like, finishing with smooth polished sweet tannins on the long smooth finish. A powerful, decadent but smooth approachable wine.

Like the '14, the 2010 Clio is also a blend of 70% old-vine Monastrell with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.

RM 94 points. 

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar gave this 92 point, Wine Spectator 91 points, and Robert Parker Wine Advocate 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1467288

Next to the Clio we also had these two big forward dessert wines, both from half bottles.


Warres Porto Vintage Quinta da Cavadinha 1995


Consistent with earlier tasting notes. Dark coffee color - full bodied, a bit of an edge of sweet black fruits, layer of smokey creosote with hint of expresso, cedar and cassis and dark black cherry on the finish.

From a half bottle.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3721

Château Filhot Sauternes - 2ème Grand Cru Classé 1988

Trolling the cellar with Dr Dan looking for some after dinner wines, I found this perfectly suited vintage Sauterne that I must admit was not registered in my Cellartracker wine database inventory. I don't remember purchasing this wine or having had it previously. This should not be surprising with more than a thousand bottles in the cellar. Perhaps what is more surprising is how seldom this happens.

Château Filhot is a classic Sauterne Bordeaux, having been classified a 'second growth', a Grand Cru Classe', back in the original 1855 Bordeaux producer classification. The vineyards date back to the 1630's and the château was founded by Romain de Filhot in 1709. According to Wikipedia, after the French revolution, the estate was taken over by Romain-Bertrand de Lur-Saluces who added the estate of Pinaud du Rey and had the château redesigned to its English appearance in 1840.

Legend has it that Thomas Jefferson drank this wine and ranked it directly behind the legendary Chateau d'Yquem. During that time, Filhot enjoyed a greater reputation than today, and the two wines were comparably priced. This was during the time that Jefferson was American ambassador to France. He spent much time there and traveled the wine regions. He became a great admirer and oenphile of French wines. He actually brought back grape vines and labored unsuccessfully to grow them in Virginia at his Monticello estate.


In 1935, Comtesse Durieu de Lacarelle (the sister of the Marquis de Lur-Saluces, proprietor of Château d'Yquem) bought the estate, which was subsequently modernised by her son, Louis Durieu de Lacarelle, during the 1970s. The estate is currently run by the Vaucelles family.

Today Filhot vineyards cover 150 acres on the 700 acre estate with the grape varieties of 60% Sémillon, 36% Sauvignon blanc and 4% Muscadelle. Their annual production is an average of 6500 cases. They also produce a second label wine called Chateau Pineau du Rey.

For an almost thirty year old wine, the 1988 was still light golden honey colored. These wines start out straw colored and darken with age. I would have expected it to be weak tea colored at least, or even darker. It was medium-full bodied, crisp and clear with complex notes of honey and pineapple aromas with what Robert Parker called a "fine underlying acidity, an earthiness that added to the wine's complexity, and a clean, rich, crisp finish". This was more subdued and not as sweet or unctuous as a d'Yquem or other popular premium Sauterne. It was very pleasant and enjoyable none-the-less. It would be nice with soft moderate cheeses or even a salad course.

RM 88 points. Robert Parker also gave this 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=97425

Clark Claudon Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Clark Claudon Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Finishing out the year, we enjoyed a quiet dinner and peaceful evening at home watching a movie. Linda prepared filets of beef with baked potato and peas. I selected from the cellar this Clark Claudon Napa Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. This is the same wine we had the other night for our gala family holiday dinner, so I could compare another vintage of this label of which we hold more than a dozen vintages. Such a tasting comparison between multiple vintages of the same label is considered a 'vertical' tasting. I opted for this ten year old 2006 vintage, at tens years of age, a benchmark tasting, and, to celebrate the tenth wedding anniversary of our daughter, Erin and son-in-law Johnny.

As I reminisced with a couple friends on the phone the last few days, its hard to believe it has been ten years since we hosted our daughter's gala wedding banquet at which we served a horizontal selection of her birthyear wines from large format bottles (shown right). 

Tonight, with Linda fighting the flu, she wasn't up for any wine so, drinking alone, I opened a 375ml half bottle of this selection.

At ten years of age, this bottle is probably at the peak of its drinking window, matured to the point to reveal its true character and profile, but not likely to improve any further with age. Yet, this bottle probably has at least ten and perhaps twenty years of life, so no need to hurry consuming our stock.

Dark garnet/purple colored, medium full bodied, elegant, concentrated and complex but nicely balanced core of black berry and black currant fruits, accented by tones of cedar, spice, cigar box and hints of mocha and tangy sweet oak with a long smooth lingering tannin finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=773571

http://www.clarkclaudon.com/

Silverado Vineyards Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Silverado Vineyards Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

The local independent wine shop, Peterson's, had this Estate Napa Cab blend available in half bottles so I picked up a few to try and to have available for future consumption/tasting. I opened this one to try before buying more. Based on this tasting, I'll opt out of getting any more, let alone a case, content on having a few for suitable drinking.

Often, I hear folks speak of having bought a case of a particular wine, sometimes without having tasted it first. I learned a long time ago that if I am going to buy a case of a wine, I better really enjoy it since life is too short to drink wine you don't enjoy. Moreover, having multiple different wines vs. multiple bottles of an particular wine, affords the option of trying more labels and vintages. This to me is part of the adventure and fun of tasting wine. Hence, I'll most often opt to acquire more, different wines, than larger quantities of a particular wine.

So it was that I acquired four bottles of this to try, to determine if I wish to go get more, and so in any event,  I have a couple half bottles in the cellar for appropriate occasions. I write in here often about the convenience and suitability of a having a 375ml half bottle.

This came across as a bit obtuse, with the pronounced ripe plum and black cherry fruits having a bit of a sharp edge, lacking polish and balance. The concentrated and firm fruits were accented by tones of earth, mineral and hints of anise and a layer of sweet cherry on the moderate tannin lingering finish. Several Cellartracker tasters noted this may benefit from more time in the bottle to settle and perhaps round out that edge.

RM 87 points.

P.S. - I customarily save some wine to taste the next day or even the day thereafter. Two days later, this was indeed smoother and more approachable, warranting another point to 88 score.

This is a blend of  81% Cabernet, 15% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot. The fruit is sourced from multiple Estate Napa Valley vineyards from Stag's Leap District (60%),  Mt. George Vineyard (33%) and Oakville Station (7%).

Many visitors to Napa Valley have passed by, or even visited Silverado Vineyards, on the Silverado Trail along the eastern arterial route of Napa Valley. Few realize the land/vineyard holdings of the producer extend far and wide up and down the valley beyond their primary Stag's Leap District site. Indeed, Silverado represent having six different vineyards sites. Some are for the traditional Bordeaux varietals while a couple are dedicated to Chardonnay.

On their website, Jon Emmerich, Winemaker is quoted as saying, "This is a great wine growing property. Each one of the vineyards has its own distinctive flavors and character. We work to make better use of the land, to farm it better, to help each block express exactly what and where it is. I believe that’s how to make wine." Indeed, having such vineyard assets affords a producer greatest control over their sourcing and branding over time.

The term Estate on a wine bottle designates that all (75%?) of the fruit in the bottle was sourced from proprietor owned sites, rather than purchased from contract or independent growers. While this provides the ability for consistency over time and across vintages, the diversity of the vineyard sites in this particular wine, defies this wine having any sense of terroir. Such a designation would be allocated to their premium label (s).

Generally, the rules dictate that for the wine to be labeled a particular varietal, in this case Cabernet Sauvignon, and from a particular location, Napa Valley, 75% of the grapes need to comply with that designation. In other words, at least 75% of the fruit in this wine is Cabernet Sauvignon, and 75% of the fruit came from Napa Valley.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2075867

http://www.silveradovineyards.com/

Château Corbin St. Émilion Grand Cru 2006

Château Corbin St. Émilion Grand Cru 2006

Home alone for the evening, as it protocol, I opened this 375ml half bottle to taste with dinner. Even then, I had one glass, half the half the first evening, and the remainder the following evening. This was a nice complement to some hearty cheeses and French bread.

I wrote about the allure of half bottles a couple times in recent weeks in these pages. 

Château Corbin is one of the oldest estates in Saint-Emilion, dating back to the 15th century.

Built in the middle of the 19th century, Corbin was purchased in 1924 by the great-grandparents of the current owners. Since 1999, the estate has been managed by Anabelle Cruse-Bardinet, a Bordeaux University oenology graduate, who represents the 4th generation of the family. Jean-Philippe Fort, one of Michel Rolland's team of œnologists, has been Corbin’s wine-making consultant since 2006.

The Corbin vineyards cover 13 contiguous hectares (32 acres) in the commune of Saint-Emilion, adjacent to the Pomerol appellation. The grape varieties planted in the tradition of the 'Right Bank', 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, with the average age of the vines being about 30 years. The finest grapes from the best plots and the oldest vines are used for making Château Corbin while grapes from younger vines go into a second label wine (XX de Corbin and DIVIN de Corbin).

I wrote recently about the Right Bank of Bordeaux and the grape varieties and style of wines produced there. 

The producer's website lists sites where the wine can be obtained in the US, a small number of wine shops, including Bassin's MacArthur Wines in WDC, where I recall obtaining this bottle.

This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, was a bit tight and closed the first evening, being more open and approachable the second day when the smoke, creosote, black olive and herb layer gave way to the dark berry and tangy black cherry fruits, with notes of cedar, black tea and clove spice turning to fine tannins on the crisp clean moderate finish.

RM 87 points, same as WS.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=360786

http://www.chateau-corbin.com/uk/home.php

Lail Vineyards Blueprint Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Lail Vineyards Blueprint Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

Home alone for the evening I pulled this 375ml half bottle to taste with the leftover steak from Saturday night dinner.

Lail Vineyards is a legendary Napa Valley producer with roots dating back five generations to the founding of Inglenook Vineyards in 1879 by their great, grand-uncle Gustav Niebaum. Today, Niebaum ancestors continue the tradition making premier Napa wines with this label “Blueprint”, based on Jon Lail’s wine country architectural practice, which dates back to the 2001 vintage release.

Blueprint is a blend of Bordeaux varietals with the 2005 vintage being a cuvee of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. The wine is based on the estate's flagship wine, J. Daniel Cuvee, which was a proprietary blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from 1995 -2000. The grapes are sourced from vineyards in several sub-appellations in Napa Valley including Howell Mountain, Oakville, St. Helena, and Yountville. The wine is crafted by well known winemaker Philippe Melka who has been winemaker at Lail Vineyards since the inaugural vintage in 1995. We have several wines from Melka from several leading producers across Napa Valley including his own private labels.


Melka's notes on this wine, “The 2005 Blueprint is seductive and approachable. The wine reveals dark notes of blackberries intermixed with vanilla, cacao and coconuts. In the mouth it is round with a pure attack and good balance finishing with raspberry and cherry flavors and well-integrated sweet tannins.”

Dark blackish garnet colored with brownish hue setting in, medium full bodied, black fruits are overtaken by licorice and cedar/camphor and tones of smoke and creosote that burn off over time turning to tangy firm, tight black cherry and black raspberry fruits with tongue coating tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=472976

https://www.lailvineyards.com/

Château de Ferrand St. Émilion Grand Cru 2010

Château de Ferrand St. Émilion Grand Cru 2010 in 375 Half Bottle Format

Traveling on business, I picked up a 375ml half bottle of this Château de Ferrand, St. Émilion Grand Cru at Total Wine to taste with carry-out dinner back at the hotel. 

I've written often about half bottles in these pages; ... as late as last week. Here's another scenario where a small format bottle is in order. For the money spent, while I got half as much wine, I got a much better wine. Since I was dining alone and wouldn't consume a whole bottle anyway, and can't take the remainder on the airplane home (in carry-on luggage), I consider this a useful option, when opting for a higher quality wine. 

The challenge of course is the options are very limited in seeking small format labels. Smaller merchants likely won't offer any, while a beverage super store such as Binny's in Chicagoland, and in this case, Total Wine, will offer a selection of wines in small format. Binny's has close to a hundred labels on offer (their Oak Brook store aisle is shown above) while Total Wine had perhaps a score. 

Note, that a half bottle will cost sightly more than half the price of a standard 750ml format, so there is a bit of an uplift in price for the lower volume unique offering. In the case, a standard bottle cost $39.99, the half bottle was $23.

At six years of age, this was perfect for current drinking now, probably at the apex of its drinking window, not likely to improve with further aging. It was very pleasant with smoked cheese and a hearty salad.

Immediately upon opening, bright berry fruit and floral aromas erupted from the bottle. Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied with nicely balanced, bright, forward black berry and black raspberry fruits with tones of anise and hints of dark mocha and subtle spicy oak on a lingering polished tannin finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1732472

Château La Louvière Pessac-Leognan 1994

Château La Louvière Pessac-Leognan 1994

Home alone for the evening, I opened a half bottle from the cellar to enjoy a glass with leftover BBQ rib dinner. I enjoy keeping 375ml small format bottles for such occasions for convenience and for temperate consumption. This is one of a half dozen remaining from a case of 1/2 bottles acquired back on release of this wine, noting that a such a case contains the same amount of wine, in twice as many bottles - 24x375 is 9 liters, the same as a 12x750ml case. I've also written in these pages, that the 375ml, 1/2 bottle format, also allows for tasting two times as many wines if opening multiple bottles for a tasting, with the same consumption.

The last time I reviewed this wine in a 1/2 bottle from this case eighteen months ago, I wrote, "While I lauded that there was life left in the earlier bottle tasting note, tonight, the dark berry fruits are definitely giving way to non-fruit earth, leather, creosote and musty wood notes.

Dark ruby color with a brownish tinge starting to set in. Medium bodied, leathery and smoky creosote tones predominate over the black cherry and black berry fruits, accented by cedar and tangy and slightly tart cinnamon spice that gives way to a big full floral note that fills the mouth and lingers for minutes with the tongue coating moderate tannins."

That deterioration of this wine approaching the end of its drinking window continues as the fruit continues to fall off with non-fruit tones encroaching. It should be noted that wine ages less gracefully in smaller format bottles. I need to keep this in mind and not wait so long between bottles, and need to consume these remaining soon (er).

PS. Saving half of the bottle until the second night, the funkiness had blown off, replaced by the floral tones of its youth, with the fruit re-emerging to the grandeur of earlier. The lesson: don't be hasty to rush a twenty plus year old... give it some time to open, settle and return to its native character and profile. 

RM 85 points the first evening on opening, 87 points the second evening.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=38869


Previous reviews ....

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/06/chateau-la-louviere-pessac-leognan-1994.html

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2013/12/chateau-la-louviere-pessac-leognan.html

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2005

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classé 2005

Tasted with a mid-week dinner of leftover grilled steak, baked potato, green beans, sweet corn and brussel sprouts. Tasted from a 375 ml half bottle. At eleven years of age, I sense this is approaching the end of its prime drinking window as the fruits seem to have given way slightly to the emergence of the non-fruit flavors based on earlier tasting notes from three and five years ago.  Knowing the small format half bottle will age less gracefully that full size or larger bottles makes me wonder if that affected this tasting - will find out when I open a standard format bottle of this label.

Château Larmande lies north of the town of St. Emilion, close to Soutard and Cadet-Piola. It consists of 25 hectares of vineyards planted with Merlot (65%), Cabernet Franc (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). In 1991 Larmande was sold to the French insurance conglomerate, La Mondiale.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, aromatic blackberry and black cherry fruits accented by tones of tar, smoke, earthy leather, hints of cedar, spice and whisper of mocha on a firm lingering tongue puckering tannin finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=351693 

http://www.chateau-soutard.com/chateau-larmande-.aspx

Fun with Small Bottles Chardonnay Tasting

Small is Better Offering Two Tastings in One - Fun with Small Bottles

Following the tasting of Rombauer Chardonnay at the Vin Chicago Rombauer Wine Dinner at Adelle's Restaurant the other night, I picked up a half bottle at Binny's to enjoy the following evening. I also picked up a half bottle of Ramey Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2013.

As I've written in these pages (screens) before, buying 375ml half bottles allows one to enjoy two wines with dinner rather than just one. Tonight, this provided the chance to do a comparison tasting of the just discovered/tasted Rombauer Chardonnay 2014, alongside another known brand and label, Ramey Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2013, also available in half bottle small format.

Or course, one could open two bottles of wine, but the half bottle provides an affordable, convenient comparison tasting.

Such comparison tastings provide not only a fun experience, but a more in-depth and revealing side-by-side comparison of one against the other. A selection of half bottles can be found at Binny's Beverage Depot, the wine mega-merchant super store (pictured below).

For a casual Friday night dinner and wine and cheese tasting, Linda prepared her delicious, decadent Baked Brie Cheese in Filo Dough with toasted almonds, whipped fresh berries, and honey.

Interesting, the tasting revealed our preference for the less expensive Rombauer over the Ramey. Both were awesome when paired with the berry fruit, nut cheese and honey plate.

Rombauer Carneros Chardonnay 2014  

We had this wine just last evening at the winemaker dinner, served with seared U12 scallop, vanilla bean butter sauce, and mango-pineapple salsa. The Chardonnay was one of the highlights of the dinner tasting flight of six wines across five courses. So it was, ideal to compare it against another similar Chardonnay.
 

From the 2014 vintage, another ideal growing season with warm, dry conditions that resulted in excellent fruit quality that resulted in wine with rich flavors and a creamy texture for great QPR - quality price ratio in a quality Napa Chardonnay.

Butter colored, medium bodied, pleasant aromas and rich bright flavors of citrus with tones of pear and creamy vanilla, with hints of mango, melon, spice and butter with nice acidity on the tangy finish. 

RM 90 points.  
 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2162560

Ramey Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2013 
 

This 2013 Russian River Chardonnay is 36% from four different Dutton ranches (Perry, Mengle, Sebastopol & Mill Station); 16% from Martinelli’s Laughlin Road Vineyard; 13% from King Vineyard; 13% from four Rochioli vineyards (Allen, Mid-40, River, Hill); 10% from Forchini Vineyard; 5% from Westside Farms; 4% Frostwatch; and 3% from Hudson Vineyard.

Clear, pale straw color, medium bodied, this is a complex cacaphony of flavors - fruits, toasted nuts, spices - perhaps revealing the broad multitude of sources in the blend. This is a contrasting style to the Rombauer - firmer, tighter and more structured and more complex, probably more suited to more complex and bigger food accompaniment, but less suited to the mild baked brie with berry fruit and honey, which set up well with the pear, vanilla, citrus tones of the Rombauer. Hold this for grilled Salmon entree.

A compendium of notes from the popular well known reviewers refer to this wine's power and elegance, rounder, weightier and richer with with flavors as diverse as apricot pit, mint, butter and dried flowers blossom, baking spices and honeysuckle, finishing with a mineral bite for some contrapuntal complexity....

A fun and revealing comparison and tasting none-the-less.

RM 88

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2251265

Silvercreek Urbana Wine Dine Experience

Silvercreek Urbana Wine Dine Experience

Traveling cross-state we stopped enroute in Champaign/Urbana for a fine dining experience at Silvercreek Restaurant. Their website speaks to their Silvercreek Restaurant 'modern American cuisine' - 'quality interpretations of classic dishes using only the freshest ingredients from local farmers, or right from our own garden'. Their on-line menu featured many enticing selections, so we planned our route accordingly and called for reservations.

The Silvercreek website has only a terse mention of 200 wines on offer but no details so we took a chance on committing to the experience. Readers of this blog know that wine is a major determinant of our dining experience so imagine our delight when we arrived, settled in and were presented with an award worthy extensive wine list. It offers a respectable selection by region, varietal and includes a nice selection of WBTG - wine-by-the-glass, as well as a couple half bottles. Several of our favorite and reliable standby wines were available such as Napa Valley staples Robert Craig, Caymus, Silver Oak, and Seavey. But there was also a selection of French and other regions represented as well. Prices were a bit steep at two times retail which we would consider big city or Chicago prices.

I ordered the roasted duck with balsamic cherry jam, wild mushroom risotto, baby kale and arugula salad, while Linda ordered the Crispy Potato-Crusted Michigan Whitefish with carrots, grilled asparagus, pancetta, wild mushrooms and citrus cream. The offer of half bottles provided the perfect opportunity to select a quality red wine pairing for my entree, while  Linda could get a well matched white pairing for her fish. While convenient and accommodating for casual sipping, WBTG seldom offer premium or more sophisticated selections for a wine-dine pairing.

When asked how things were by the server, I admonished him that the wine was too warm, and the food too cool. The wine was room temperature which detracts from the enjoyment and discrimination of fruits. The food was warm, not hot, which in retrospect on viewing the pictures may be due to the fact they combined cool salad on the same plate as the hot entree, a practice I would avoid for just this reason.

I then ordered the multi-layered chocolate desert - dark chocolate over chocolate mousse over chocolate cake. This also was a great accompaniment to the Chateauneuf-du-Pape we orderd.

While delicious and a great pairing, it wasn't as moist or fresh as it could be, and begged to be served with au-lait or coffee, which inexplicably and regretably always seems to be served as a follow on course!

Domaine de Beaurenard Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2010

As noted above, ordered from 375ml half bottle. I wrote the other day about the imperative of keeping Zinfandel in the cellar for the occasional pairing with BBQ. Another such collection note is to keep Chateauneuf-du-Pape (CDP) for game dishes such as duck, another natural perfect pairing. Duck and CDP are one of my favorite such pairings - the complexity and boldness and forward fruits of CDP with the bold forward flavors of duck and the bright expressive compote accompaniment.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape complexity comes from the fact that it is typically a blend of several grape varietals, as many as thirteen are sanctioned by the Appellation tenants, with bold fruit forward Syrah being one of the more predominant. This Chateauneuf cuvée represents classic terroir and representation from a strong vintage. This is a blend of Grenache (70%) and the rest of equal part Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.

Dark purple colored, medium full bodied, complex but nicely balanced dark berry and black cherry fruits predominate with a layer of a mix of tones of black olive tapenade, garrigue, tree bark, spice, floral, hints of leather, anise and pepper with nice balance and smooth approachable tannins on the slightly acidic finish. 

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=1225374

So what is garrigue? According to Dr Vinny of Wine Spectator - "Garrigue refers to the low-growing vegetation on the limestone hills of the Mediterranean coast, not the limestone itself. There are a bunch of bushy, fragrant plants that grow wild there, such as juniper, thyme, rosemary and lavender, and garrigue refers to the sum of them. Think herbes de Provence, or a mix of fresh minty-herbal notes with more pungent, floral fragrances." And of course Provence is the doorway to the Rhone River Valley of which Chateauneuf-du-Pape is the standard bearer premier wine region and style of the southern Rhone.

Linda's white fish was nicely prepared and tasty. We ordered the Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc by the glass which complemented nicely.

For desert Linda order the trio of creme-brulee - one of rigorous bold blueberry, one of pronounced orange peel, and one of chocolate. Had we known or internalized the ramekin portion size we would have shared. Regretably, the chocolate selection came with canned spray on creme rather than creme fraiche. Nevertheless they were tasty.

Overall, Silvercreek offered a trendy stylish building setting in the rustic historic building with open rafters, high ceilings, natural oak, and airy well lit window seating. The staff were students, who are still learning the trade and getting settled into the routine but were earnest, sincere and attentive. The overall food and wine experience was very pleasant and good quality, although if they're going to ask big city prices, they need to be slightly more attentive to the details. I suspect that as they get into the school season, they'll catch their stride. We look forward to visiting again.

http://www.couriersilvercreek.com/

Chateau La Louviere Pessac-Leognan 1994

Château La Louvière Pessac-Leognan Graves Bordeaux 1994

I last tasted and wrote about this wine about eighteen months ago when I wrote, "There is still life left in this nineteen year old. We still have half a dozen half bottles of this original case we purchased upon release. The original wood cases of 375ml small format half bottles contained 24 bottles equaling the same amount of wine as twelve regular 750ml bottles."  

That OWC - Original Wood Case, shown left, was buried in a double stack of cases in the corner of the cellar. When I moved the stack to gain access to our well tank recently, which provides passive cooling in our subterranean cellar, I pulled out this case and realized, that while its a half case, its twelve bottles remaining, since a case of 375 half bottles actually contains twice as many bottles, (but the same amount of wine (as a standard case of 12 bottles of 750ml each, as noted above.))

So we still have ten or eleven bottles of this left, and based on tonight's tasting, its time to drink up! Still not bad since the smaller 375 ml format bottles tend to age less gracefully and not hold as long as standard or larger format bottles. Our Tasting Journal Index for this wine shows a half dozen tasting notes going back seven years. (I suspect I have earlier tasting notes not indexed. I'll look into this at some point.)

While I lauded that there was life left in the earlier bottle tasting note, tonight, the dark berry fruits are definitely giving way to non-fruit earth, leather, creosote and musty wood notes. 

Dark ruby color with a brownish tinge starting to set in. Medium bodied, leathery and smoky creosote tones predominate over the black cherry and black berry fruits, accented by cedar and tangy and slightly tart cinnamon spice that gives way to a big full floral note that fills the mouth and lingers for minutes with the tongue coating moderate tannins.

This wine provides a good QPR - Quality Price Ratio with its pleasant early drinkability coupled with its longevity.

RM 86 points, (diminished from 89 at last tasting).

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=38869

Château Sansonnet - Grand Cru Classé St Emilion 2005

Château Sansonnet - Grand Cru Classé St Emilion 2005

Château Sansonnet is a smaller producer by Bordeaux Grand Cru standards with 7 hectares (about 14 acres) of vineyards, mostly Merlot (85%) and the balance is Cabernet Franc for blending.

At ten years, this bottle may have been mishandled in distribution as it is showing significant diminution from such, or from aging in the small 375ml (half bottle) format, which doesn't age as well as standard size. But '05 was a highly rated vintage which should be showing better, so I suspect this bottle may be flawed. I have several bottles and this is the first one I've tried so I'll have to check another soon.

Dark blackish garnet with a slight brownish hue on the rim which is a sign this may not be right, medium bodied, the layers of dark fruits are offset by detracting funky aroma and flavors of damp earth, grass and rotting/wood, overshadowing ripe raisin and fig tones accented by smokey anise and hints of mocha and cedar, with a clinging tannic finish. It was slightly less offsetting and more approachable day two but still showing the same profile.

RM 83 but may be flawed.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=207948

http://www.sansonnet.com/

Carmenet Sonoma Valley Moon Mountain Estate Meritage Reserve 1995

Carmenet Sonoma Valley Moon Mountain Estate Meritage Reserve 1995
 

This is the last of a 'six pack' of half bottles of this label. Unlike several previous tasting notes of this same wine and format (see links below) - this bottle did not show diminution from aging, rather it drank like a gracefully aging Bordeaux, to which it aspires to emulate. Surprising since its the last and therefore oldest tasting at twenty years, and from a half bottle, which tends to hold age less than a regular or larger format bottle. Great accompaniment to grilled pepper steak.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, there was no opening with a slight barnyard funkiness (as one tasting before), rather it opened with vibrant floral and fruits, ripe cherry, black cherry, raspberry and some blue notes, with slightly earthy, leather, cedar and herb with hints of smoke on a moderate tannin finish. 

RM 90 points.

From 375ml (half bottle). Blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=63738

http://classicwinesofcalifornia.com/carmenetwinery.html 

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/01/carmenet-moon-mountain-estate-reserve.html

http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2011/10/silom12-bucktown-chicago-thai.html

Other earlier tastings: Sept 4, 2004, Feb 23, 2006, May 3, 2009

Davis Family Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel

Davis Family Vineyards Russian River Valley Old Vine Zinfandel 2002

Thin crust pizza with sausage, pepperoni and spicy sauce and a plate of hearty cheese calls for fruit forward bold expressive pizza wine. Davis Family Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel from the Russian River Valley answers the call - not complex or sophisticated but easy drinking, single dimensional and focused.

The fact this was a small format 375ml bottle may have contributed to its aging to the point of being in the last stage of its drinking window for this twelve year old. Lasting that long speaks well for this label, indicates a pretty robust and stable wine, and appropriate cellar conditions. Glad I pulled this from the cellar and caught it in time, appropriately for a weeknight wine and pizza experience.

Dark inky purple colored, medium bodied, at twelve years of age the fruit has turned to bramble black berry accented raisin tones with a layer of leather and tobacco.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=32211  

http://www.davisfamilyvineyards.com/

Clark Claudon Howell Mountain Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Clark Claudon Howell Mountain Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Following our Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon wine theme dinner the other night, I couldn't help but continue the tasting flight by opening this selection. I event noted in my wine journal post from the other night where I cited this wine as the next one I would open if we had more participants to taste such. Tonight's tasting was possible because I have 375ml half bottles of this wine allowing me to open one for a week night dinner for just bride L and me with left over tenderloin and roasted potatoes from our Saturday night wine dinner.

As I've written before in this blog about this wine, we've been collecting this Howell Mountain classic since our Napa Valley Wine Experience 1999 when we first met Tom Clark and Laurie Claudon-Clark and hosted them at one of our wine producer dinners.

We have collected and maintain a vertical collection of this wine consisting of a dozen and half vintages dating back to their inaugural 1993 vintage. We have tasted this in several Napa Cabernet wine flights with a consistent outcome - often a blockbuster crowd pleaser.

Deep inky garnet colored,  full bodied - explosive aromas of ripe dark berry fruits, big mouth-full of forward complex, balanced, silky smooth, polished spicy black currant and edge of red berry fruits, with mouthful of floral violets, tones of dark mocha and turning to a predominant forward accent of sweet smooth spicy sweet oak that lingers on and on and on the smooth tannin finish, revealing the two years aging in new oak barrels. This was more vibrant and expressive than earlier tastings.

The 2004 Napa growing season was condensed with early bud break, warm days, cool nights and one challenging heat spike. The result was a small harvest of intense, flavor packed fruit from an unusual, but exceptional year that is showing and drinking well and should last another decade.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=229261

www.clarkclaudon.com 

Carmenet Moon Mountain Estate Reserve Sonoma Valley Meritage 1995

Carmenet Moon Mountain Estate Reserve Sonoma Valley Meritage 1995

A bona fide Meritage. Tasted at home with beef roast, potatoes, gravy, and artisan cheese with cracked black pepper crackers.

Last of several bottles. Consistent with earlier and previous tasting notes of this same wine and format - showing gradual further diminution from aging, opening with a slight barnyard funkiness before giving way to the vibrant fruits. From earlier post - dark, medium bodied, slightly earthy and leathery revealing its age, overpowering the berry currant, smoke, cedar and herb with moderate tannins.

From 375ml. Blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. Not too late but time to drink up.

RM 87 points, reduced from 88 previously.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=63738 

Clark Claudon Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Clark Claudon Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2004


We discovered Tom Clark and Laurie Clark-Claudon shortly after their inaugural release back in the early nineties. We hosted them as a featured wine producer at one our wine dinners back during our Napa Wine Experience 1999. We still hold a vertical collection in our cellar going back to the 1995 vintage. This 2004 release was drinking very nicely a couple years ago, at a young age, somewhat out of character with the normally long lived, slower to emerge, label.

Clark-Claudon typifies the Howell Mountain terroir of its heritage and origins. Their vineyard sits back on the north east side a bit more than half way up Howell Mountain between 800 ft and 1,000 ft elevation. They have 18 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and a bit of Petit Verdot vines, 'carved out', as they say, of their 117 acre hillside property.

The shallow, rocky, mountain soils, consistent sun exposure tempered by the cool evening breezes just about level with the fog line hovering over the valley below provide ideal conditions to produce intense extracted mountain fruit with that ,characteristic Howell Mountain spice and firm solid core of smooth tannins.

We hold several bottles of this vintage in both standard, half bottles and a few magnums. Tonight, I opened a 375 ml half bottle for casual sipping with a steak dinner. I raise this as it seemed to be less vibrant and expressive than earlier experience with this label. I will attribute that to the bottle size rather than the aging of the vintage. Only time, and further tasting experiences will tell if that is the case.
 
Deep dark purple - full bodied - big mouth-full of forward spicy black and edge of red berry fruits, violets, layers of mocha and oak with a long lingering tannin finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=229261

http://www.clarkclaudon.com/