MR Pedestal Merlot Tribute Remembrance Dinner

Michel Rolland Pedestal Merlot Tribute Remembrance Dinner 

Readers of these pages might think I’m obsessive and make too much out of a bottle of wine or its label, and they might be right. But selecting and tasting a wine often brings back memories of friends, good times, travel, and evokes many stories. You be the judge.  

Tonight was such a case. Friday evening, end of a busy event filled week, I longed for an enjoyable casual sipping wine with dinner. Scouring the wine cellar I was looking at Merlot for its complex but velvety soft drinking, and pairing with food. 

Wife Linda grilled quality prime chopped beefsteak prepared in my favorite Pittsburgh-style (charred with hot pink center). We also enjoyed a plate of olives and fine olive oil produced by and gifted from our French friend Philipe from fruit from the tree in their backyard in the Luberon in Provençal France. Philippe brought a large container of their fine olive oil during his visit last fall. A visit to the Speziani family home was one of the drivers and highlights of our visit to Aix-en-Provence and the Luberon this past summer. Our relationship with them dates back to our hosting Philipe as a French exchange student in our home when son Alec was his sponsor back in High School.

I selected a bottle of Merlot from the Long Shadow’s Vintners Collection, crafted by the legendary master of Merlot, Michel Rolland, producer of and consulting winemaker to the world’s most iconic Merlot labels. We own several of his and his clients’ labels including his proprietary Michel Rolland Napa Cabernet, Chateau Clinet and Chateau Figeac, one of our signature birthyear labels we collect for our son’s birthyear.  

Long Shadows created their special Collection of wines, each crafted by a world renowned winemaker selected for their particular expertise in a specific varietal and style of wine. Michel Rolland was chosen to craft the Pedestal Merlot label. 

Michel Rolland was a French Bordeaux-based oenologist, with hundreds of clients across 13 countries as consulting winemaker to produce Merlot based wines. Wine Enthusiast memorialized Roland in a feature, ‘The Master Blender Who Turned Bordeaux into a Global Sensation Leaves the Wine World Forever Changed“, excerpted below.

The celebrated Bordeaux-based oenologist and winemaker who pioneered a style of wine that became fashionable in the 1990s and 2000s, died suddenly of a heart attack on March 20 at age 78.

“Rolland was a master blender who developed the style known for its ripe fruit, extended maceration, low yields, and new wood, crafting wines that were soft, lush, and generous, with unusually high alcohol for the time. Some loved it, especially in the American market; others found it too heady and alcoholic. But everyone can agree that he changed the wine world forever.’

“Born in 1948, into a Libourne wine family, owners of Château le Bon Pasteur in Pomerol, Rolland grew up surrounded by Merlot vineyards. His career began in 1973 after he graduated from Bordeaux University’s Wine Faculty. Rolland became known as the original “flying winemaker,” traveling the world and advising wineries as far-flung as California, where he created the cult Cabernet style in Napa, Chile, and Argentina.”

It just so happened that this week, I also lost a dear friend, for whom I just recently traveled to Florida to visit in what turned out to be his final days. LLL, or L3 as we called him, grew up on 105th in the Beverly section of Chicago, and we reminisced about him growing up in his neighborhood amongst historic architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright and legendary associate Walter Burleigh Griffin. He was unaware of Griffin, and I was able to share the importance of the legacy and history of Griffin for whom 104th Place is today called “Griffin Way”, for the large number of turn of the century prairie style homes he designed and built there. Griffin is a key character of my tours that I give at the Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio in historic Oak Park. 

Below shows some of the historic Frank Lloyd Wright and Walter Burleigh Griffin homes in my friend’s old neighborhood. This is a screenshot from The Prairie School Traveler, an amazing source of prairie school architecture sites. 

Such is the backdrop of my selection of a special Michel Rolland label, as a dual tribute to two recently departed special individuals. 

Long Shadows Vintners Collection Pedestal Merlot 2017

I wrote about Long Shadows Vintners Collection in this blogpost, Long Shadows Cellars feature world class winemakers and Columbia Valley fruit, and this Pedestal Merlot and other Collection wines in several blogposts back in 2022 - Long Shadows Pedestal Merlot 2015, and Long Shadows Duo Showcase Katy Business Dinner, and Catch 35 Naperville Surf & Turf and Wine Dinner, excerpted here. 

Long Shadows Vintners' Collection 

I have written in these pages about Long Shadows, the brand portfolio of several labels, all crafted by world famous winemakers from fruits sourced in the Washington State Columbia Valley. This was the vision of Allen Shoup, former CEO of Chateau St Michelle, champion and evangelist for Washington State wines. He formed the brand and recruited a world famous winemaker for each varietal based label. 

As noted above, Michel Rolland, Pomerol vintner and consultant to many of the world’s top wineries, was selected to produce this Right Bank Bordeaux Blend wine. He is the 'Master of Merlot', winemaker to some of the leading Bordeaux labels from the Right Bank where Merlot is the predominant varietal in the blend as well as the Napa based Merlot based Red Blend release cited herein. 

We've long known about the brand and joined their club while visiting their tasting room hospitality center in Woodinville WA during our Seattle Wine / Dine Experience in 2018. We remain Vault Club Members of the allocated portfolio and get a case each quarter of two of the varietal based selections including this Pedestal label.

Long Shadows Vintners Collection Pedestal Merlot 2017

We know this wine well as I have several vintages of this label in our cellar collection, having been a wine-club member for close to a decade. As noted, we also know and hold several vintages of the winemaker Michel Rolland's flagship labels, legendary Pomerol Bordeaux and Napa Valley oenologist, vintner and consultant to some of the world’s best wineries. 

This was the best tasting vintage of this label I have had as this vintage selection and food pairing met my lofty expectations. As I write often in these pages, an optimal food/wine pairing amplifies the enjoyment of both. 

At nine years, the bottle was pristine and this is drinking at the apex of its drinking profile, but should continue to age for pleasurable drinking for perhaps another decade. 

This vintage release is a blend of 82% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot, that was aged 22 months in French oak barrels, with 86% being new.  

The 2017 Pedestal Merlot was predominately grown on the Wahluke Slope, a warm area of the Columbia Valley that produces Merlot with layers of fresh, dark fruit and beautiful aromatics. A small amount of Merlot from Dionysus Vineyard and The Benches was used to build layers and complexity. Red Mountain’s Tapteil Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon added backbone. Petit Verdot from Dionysus Vineyard contributed to the finished wine’s rich mid-palate.

This release was awarded 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 94 points by Wine Advocate and International Wine Reviews, 93P points and a Cellar Selection by Wine Enthusiast, and 92+ points by Stephen Tanzer.

Winemakers tasting notes - “Vibrant and deep in color, with a beautiful array of red and dark berries woven around a hint of well-integrated oak spice and refined tannins. Soft and rich on the mid-palate extending through a lengthy finish that leaves an elegant impression.”

Dark inky ruby purple in color, full bodied, bright vibrant opulent black raspberry and blackberry fruits with notes of cassis, spice, dark mocha chocolate, cigar box, black tea and hints of vanilla with a smooth polished medium silky tannin laced finish.

RM 94 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3581700

http://www.longshadows.com 

@LongShadowsWine

  

Unique Rhône White Blend with Lobster Marsala

Unique Rhône White Blend with Lobster Marsala for a delicious food wine pairing 

Linda prepared a delicious Lobster Marsala dish with medallions sautéed with creamed spinach and shallots in a Marsala wine sauce, served with mashed potatoes. 

To pair with the dish, I pulled from the cellar this unique Blend of White Rhône varietals. As I’ve written often in these pages, an optimal food wine pairing such as this amplifies the delight and appreciation of both the food and the wine. 

Carol Shelton "Coquille Blanc" Paso Robles White Rhône Blend 2021

This interesting "Coquille Blanc" label is from producer Carol Shelton,  a white Rhone-style blend from Paso Robles. This label was initially created in 2008 to celebrate the 10th anniversary of their winery in 2010. 

Carol developed a distinctive ‘nose’ for wine at a very early age when her mother developed an “identify the scent” game using herbs and spices out of their kitchen cabinet. Carol developed a keen sense of smell and became remarkably adept at figuring out new smells as the game evolved. As Carol recalls, “it was probably the beginning of my path into the wine industry”.

Carol enrolled at UC Davis in 1974, initially in an undeclared major with a penchant for language and an aptitude for science. While on a tour of Sebastiani Winery, she was inspired by the scent of red wine and oak in the air, and the power and complexity of aromas. It was then she decided to become a winemaker. She declared her major as Fermentation Science, earning a Bachelor’s degree in Enology. 

She was fortunate to gain experience working with legendary winemakers André Tchelistcheff at Buena Vista and Peter Lehmann at Saltram in Australia. 

In 1981, Carol began working for Rodney Strong and Windsor Vineyards. Over the ensuing 19 years as winemaker at Windsor, Carol had the opportunity to bottle 45 different wines each year, ranging from sparkling wines to port, to Zinfandel. She was drawn to the unpretentiousness and range of flavors and pursued further exploration of Zinfandel from different growing regions. 

In 2000, at the urging of Carol’s husband Mitch, she set out on her own, starting her own winery. With her husband and business partner, Mitch Mackenzie, they sought out exceptional vineyards throughout California including Dry Creek Valley, Rockpile, Russian River Valley, Fountaingrove District, Paso Robles, Lodi, Mendocino County, and the Cucamonga Valley of Southern California. She sought out and developed close partnerships with growers to source fruit for her wines that would express the unique terroir of the vineyard.

Carol Shelton was named ‘Winemaker of the Year’ five times, and was named one of eight Pioneer Women Winemakers of Sonoma County in 2005. She has won countless gold medals and accolades for her wines - her 2011 Wild Thing Zinfandel was included in the Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2014.

She characterizes this “exotic complex, food friendly white Rhone-style blend as a “red-drinker’s white,” a complex alternative to the more one-dimensional white varietal wines like Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc”. 

As Carol, the producer projected, this was the perfect complement to its namesake shellfish with buttery-cream sauce. Coquille, pronounced “ko-keel”, is French for shellfish or scallop, like the scallop shells on the Shelton family coat of arms. 

This is a blend of Rhône Varietals: 30% Grenache Blanc, 30% Roussanne, 30% Viognier, and 10% Marsanne, 98% sourced from the Nevarez Vineyard in the Central California Coast Paso Robles Appellation.

Fermentation Characteristics: 100% barrel fermented, then stirred every Wednesday for 8 months: About 50% finished malo-lactic fermentation. 

It was aged 8 months in all older French barrels: 70% oak, 30% Acacia 25% 2-yr-old, 75% older/neutral 

Case production was 1069 cases.

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: “Exotic nose of spicy pears and white peaches, almond paste/marzipan, a touch of honeysuckle perfume. Multi-dimensional (many layers), a hard-to-describe range of aromatics, intriguing, almost mysterious! In the mouth it is crisply dry yet creamy and round and full-bodied, with nice almond paste on crisp-yet-juicy pear fruit. “

This was rated 93 points by Wine Enthusiast, and 92 points Wilfred Wong of Wine.com and Wine Spectator.

The full body and complex full round fruit and spice flavors were a perfect complement to the lobster with the Marsala wine sauce. 

This was golden straw colored, medium bodied, complex, bright vibrant but nicely balanced pear, stone fruit and green apple flavors with notes of spicy peach, honey, lemon and honeysuckle and a hint of coconut, with fresh acidity on a lively lingering tangy finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4447685

https://www.carolshelton.com/

Sharko’s BBQ with Yakima Valley Syrah

Sharko’s Beef Brisket BBQ with Yakima Valley (Washington) Single Vineyard Syrah  

Wife Linda picked up Beef Brisket BBQ at Sharko’s in nearby Downers Grove, (IL), our favorite and arguably the best BBQ in the western suburbs. 

Sharko’s have a long history and legacy of restaurants in Chicago and the Western Suburbs dating back to the 1930’s, starting with a family butcher shop in Chicago opened by George Sharko. In the 1950's, Sharko’s sons Jerry and George promoted the Sharko brand selling spices, extracts, and small wares through catalog sales. 

In 1956 they opened Sharko's on 63rd St in Chicago, which was successful from the beginning, leading to 2 more additions and the start of a traditional family style menu. Joined by brothers Don and Greg, and Jerry Sharko’s son Ron, the business expanded with four more restaurants in East Chicago, Villa Park, Lisle and Lombard (IL), as well as banquet halls and a catering company. Greg eventually went on to start Sharko's Catering in Scottsdale, Arizona which is still thriving.

We dined at the Lisle Sharko’s restaurant back in the late seventies, a fine dining establishment that eventually closed when the site was taken over and incorporated into the vast Molex Corporation global headquarters campus. 

In recent years, Sharko’s opened in Naperville on the Freedom Drive restaurant row, then moved to the current location in Downers Grove. Sharko’s BBQ Sauce took 1st prize fat Naperville's First Rib Fest, an immensely popular event for more than a decade. 

For pairing with the Beef Brisket, we pulled from the cellar this limited release single vineyard designated Syrah. 

Arnaut “Avenida” Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley Syrah 2017

We wrote about this producer and this label last year about this time, in this blogpost, Arnaut Avenida Boushey Vineyard Columbia Valley Syrah, as excerpted here:

Last year, we eagerly opened this just acquired, highly regarded Columbia Valley Syrah. I admited I’d never heard of this producer or this highly acclaimed vineyard source, hence I was curious to try this highly rated label.. 

Avennia is the partnership project of entrepreneur Marty Taucher and winemaker Chris Peterson, founded in 2009 based on core principles; “a passionate commitment to signature vineyards and natural processes in the cellar - resulting in timeless, world class wines that are solely and undeniably Washington”. 

This approach and objective is similar to another high profile Washington State producer, Long Shadows, and their Vintners Collection Series of labels, which we love, and have collected as wine club members since discovering them on our trip to the region back in 2017. 

Interesting, that like Long Shadows, Avennia also sources their fruit from contract growers, and promotes their brand through three different tasting rooms in three of the major Washington State wine areas, Woodinville, Walla Walla, at their sole estate vineyard site in the Red Mountain appellation in Yakima Valley. We visited both the Woodinville and Walla Walla wine areas during trips to the region. 

In their first year of production, 2010, they acquired 16 tons of fruit that they transformed to wine that was ultimately released in 2012, Receiving much acclaim in that inaugural release, and affirming and building upon relationships in place with several of the state’s most legendary growers, the stage was set to secure the best fruit in the region for follow-on vintages. More than a decade later, the same core principles continue to guide the direction of the winery and the business.

Marty Taucher, Managing Partner, a native Oregonian, Marty graduated from Oregon State in 1977 and started at then upstart Microsoft in 1984. He went on to lead Public Relations and Event Marketing, then, spent his last five years as Director of Marketing and Brand Strategy for a consumer and online product group. 

In 2009, Taucher signed on as a crush intern at DeLille Cellars where he met Chris Peterson and together they laid the plans for what is now Avennia.

Always inspired by new ideas and fresh thinking, Marty is an angel investor. He serves on numerous non-profit boards. When he’s not in the cellar, he’s an avid golfer, a world traveler, and a perfectly reliable

Chris Peterson, Winemaker/Partner was engaged in the Washington wine industry for more than a decade,  working to make some of the state’s most heralded and award-winning wines at DeLille Cellars. 

Together they founded Avennia with the quest to showcase Washington as a unique and compelling place for great wines, acquiring fruit from some of the finest vineyards in Washington, with a specific focus on the grape varieties used in Bordeaux and the Rhône, in light of their similar latitude to Washington, which makes them a natural fit to excel there.

In thoughtfully choosing vineyard sites to match their winemaking style and preferences, they chose not only the vineyard sources themselves, but down to our favorite vineyard blocks. There is an emphasis on older vines, and moderate climates, as these features tend to create wine with more depth and complexity—a balance between fruit and non-fruit characteristics. 

They strive to craft wine that is balanced and harmonious - the fruit, acid, tannin, perhaps oak. 

Avennia "Arnaut - Boushey Vineyard" Yakima Valley Syrah 2017 

The 2017 Syrah Arnaut Boushey Vineyard is 100% Syrah from Dick Boushey's highly regarded vineyard on the western side of the Yakima Valley AVA, considered one of the state's premier Syrah vineyards. 

This is a cooler site, that tends to instill Northern Rhone-like character in the fruit. Dick Boushey was the first grower with whom Avennia partnered. 

From the Boushey site they source three different varieties which go into the three flagship wines. Boushey is best known for Yakima Valley Syrah and Avennia is the only winery that uses both of the oldest blocks of his coveted fruit. The combination of these two Syrah blocks makes up this Arnaut, a wine we have made since our first vintage, 2010. 

The older, called Grand Côte (meaning "great hillside”), produces wine that is piercingly pure and focused, with meaty and mineral aromas backing up its deep blackberry and damson plum fruit flavors. Wines from the second block, Factory Road, show richer body and feature savory cured meat notes, along with orange peel, and a distinct iron note. 

This release was awarded 95 points by Decanter, 93 pints by Jeb Dunnuck and Vinous, and 92 points by Robert Parker and Wine Enthusiast, an Editor’s Choice. 

Aged 18 months in 15% new French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Case production was 354 caees

Winemaker's Tasting Notes - "This vintage brings an exceptional level of finesse to Arnaut, but no shortage of the wild, savory aspects we expect from this wine. The nose features, blueberry, salted blackberry, charcoal-grilled pork chop, asphalt, bittersweet chocolate, bee pollen, and a hint of grapefruit pith. Rich and beautifully textured on the palate, with pure Boushey notes of blueberry reduction, bacon fat, cacao nibs, charcoal embers, and grilled thyme. The elegance here hints at this wine drinking well on release, and it should age nicely for 8-12 years." - Chris Peterson, Winemaker

Dark garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, black berry and black raspberry fruits are layered with intense forward notes of black pepper with accents of creosote, dark spices, black olive, black tea, garrigue, and cigar leaf.

RM 91

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3277603

https://avennia.com/

https://sharkosbbq.com/

Long Shadows Sequel Shiraz with BBQ Ribs

Long Shadows Sequel Columbia Valley Shiraz with BBQ Ribs

Quiet relaxing night at home, watching this week’s episode of “The Voice”, Linda prepared BBQ ribs with baked potatoes, texas toast and salad. I pulled from the cellar this classic Columbia Valley Shiraz from legendary Australian producer John Duval, for one of our favorite food and wine pairing combinations.

I wrote about this label, the winemaker, and the Long Shadows Vintners program upon release and receipt of our wine club allocation shipment back in 2020 which I featured in these pages, excerpted here.  

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2020/03/long-shadows-sequel-syrah-2017.html

From March 16, 2020

Long Shadows “Sequel” Syrah 2017

We just received our Vault Key Club release allocation shipment of Long Shadows Vintners Series which included this Sequel Syrah 2017. We discovered and signed up for this during our Washington Wine Experience when we visited the winery tasting room in Woodinville last fall.

This is a selection of the Long Shadows Vintners Collection, a portfolio of seven ultra-premium wines showcasing the viticulture of the Washington State Columbia Valley growing region and the artwork and expertise of internationally acclaimed winemakers who crafted them.

Long Shadows was founded in 2003 by Washington State wine legend Allen Shoup, former Chairman and CEO of Chateau St Michelle, one of the premiere wine producers in the State. There he evangelized Washington Wines and championed collaboration with notable winemakers from around the world. 

Upon retiring, he started Long Shadows with a vision to produce the best, art of the possible wines showcasing/featuring the region's grapes, each produced by a world renowned winemaker reputed for producing grapes of that varietal. Each vintner had access to Washington State's best grapes and a winery outfitted to accommodate their exacting cellar specifications. The idea was a resounding success as the wines have received critical acclaim that has grown with each vintage. The Long Shadow collection went on to win numerous awards, including recognition as Food & Wine magazine's "Winery of the Year."

The winemaker for Sequal Syrah is notable legendary Shiraz/Syrah winemaker John Duval, best known for his work with Penfolds’ Grange, the gold standard for Australian Shiraz. Few winemakers are as synonymous with the iconic wines of a country as John Duval and this label, arguably the most famous and well known label from Australia.

John joined Penfolds winery in 1974 after completing his studies in agriculture and winemaking. In 1986 John was appointed Chief Winemaker, following the winemaking greats Max Schubert and Don Ditter. During his time as Chief Winemaker, John helped establish Penfolds as one of the world’s great wine brands.

While his honors and awards are too numerous to list, some of the highlights include the Robert Mondavi Trophy for Winemaker of the Year in 1989 at the International Wine & Spirits Competition in London; two-time recipient of the Red Winemaker of the Year award at the International Wine Challenge in London, first in 1991 and then again in 2000; and Wine Spectator’s “Wine of the Year” award in 1995 for the 1990 vintage of Penfolds Grange. We collect and hold that wine as one of the signature wines for our son Alec as part of his birth-year wines horizontal collection. Hence, our affinity for and special interest in this label - appropriately named, “Sequel”.

After 28 years, John stepped down from the company in 2002 to establish John Duval Wines, debuting with the 2003 vintage and producer today of four wines under his John Duval Wines label, all Rhone varietals, a white from Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier, and three reds; one a "GSM" (Shiraz, Grenache, and Mourvedre), and two Shiraz'.

In addition to making his own wine, John also has a joint venture project with Ventisquero in the Apalta Valley, Chile.

In 2003, John traveled to the Washington State Columbia Valley at the invitation of Long Shadows Vintners’ founder Allen Shoup to make his first U.S. wine, Sequel, a name chosen in recognition of his life’s work with Syrah.

Never one to be far from great Shiraz, he currently resides in the Barossa Valley, home to some of Australia’s oldest vines.

Long Shadow's Vintners Series “Sequal” Shiraz 2017

Long Shadow's Vintners Series Sequal 2017 Shiraz is sourced from Yakima Valley's Boushey Vineyard for 1/3 of the fruit, to which the winemaker attributes 'bright and elgant character', one third is from Bacchus Vineyard Syrah, grown on a south-facing block planted in 1993, adds black fruit character and richness, and Red Mountain Syrah adds to the wine's dark, brooding character and backbone. Two thousand eighty five cases were produced. 

According to the producer's, the 2017 vintage was a 'classic' much like the 2012 and 2013, with moderate temperatures and extended hang times which enabled the grapes to achieve full maturity and color. This laid the foundation for vibrant dark fruit characteristics lifted by bright and well balanced acidity. 

This release was awarded 94 points by International Wine Review and James Suckling, and 93 points by Jeb Dunnuck, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and Vinous. 

Winemaker's notes: "Deep and inky color ... aromas and flavors of fresh blueberry, violet and a hint of cassis. Black olive tapenade and savory spice persist across the mid-palate. Multi-layered an well structured, the wine's refined texture and enticing viscosity lead to a long impressive finish. 

This was finished by aging 18 months in French oak barrels, with 60% of them being new. 

Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, bold and concentrated yet smooth, balanced and polished, flavors of black raspberry and blue fruits, notes of cassis, spice and what the winemaker called black olive tapenade are apparent, turning to a long flavorful finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=3545970

In 2020 I wrote, “Give it some time to settle and integrate the fruits for more polish and balance.” That said, it was much more approachable, more smooth, balanced and polished, than the unctuous sweet fruit bomb Venge from the other evening (review coming), or the evening more intense, huge, Tensely Santa Barbara County Shiraz 2022 (which I called “almost intense”) from earlier in the week. Vinous actually called it “Silky and seamless on entry“. Wine Advocate called it “beautifully balanced”. 

Tensely Santa Barbara County Shiraz 2022

https://www.cellartracker.com/barcode.asp?iWine=3545970

https://longshadows.com/

@LongShadowsWine 

Pour Boys tasting red wines with blue cheese assortment

Pour Boys Wine Weekend Kick-off continues with red wine tasting with blue cheese assortment 

Following our Pour Boys Wine Weekend Kick-off Dinner, early dinner on the eve of our Pour Boys ‘Winers & Diners’ Gala Wine Dinner, we came home and had a relaxed evening socializing, catching up, and sipping some wines with artisan cheeses and fresh fruits. 

Inspired by the special feature in the current issue of Wine Spectator on blue cheeses paired with wines, I had gone out and picked up selection of Murray’s Blues - Cotswald, Cave Gorgonzola, Blue Stilton and Smokehaus Blue. We enjoyed these with assorted biscuits/crackers and fresh berries, pears and apples. 

All of these were fabulous and enhanced the wine pairing with the red wines. I especially liked the Cotswald and the Blue Stilton! 

We have many wines in our cellar acquired with fellow Pour Boy Bill, or tasted at special tastings or wine producer visits together. So it is that we pull these to revisit with Bill when the occasion arises. One such wine is from Arns on Howell Mountain that we visited together during our Napa Wine Experience in 2013 as featured in this blogpost - Arns Napa Valley Estate Vineyards Visit. We tasted and acquired this label at the winery that day.

Here we are with John Arns in the Arns Winery and Vineyarda barrel room. 

Arns "Estate Grown" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

We first discovered Arns in Washington DC at Andy Bassin’s MacArthur Wines. Co-producer Sandy Belcher hails from Virginia and would take wine back to supply MacArthurs during her pilgrimages home. 

This release was part of the flight of Arns Cabs we tasted and subsequently acquired at the winery during our visit in 2013. 

This release was rated 92 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 90 points by Connoisseur’s Guide, 89 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Dark garnet colored with purple hues, medium to full-bodied, focused, concentrated, structured blackberry and blackcurrant fruit flavors with notes of dark mocha chocolate, cassis and expresso on a lingering tannin laced finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2445860

Another joy of having a cellar collection is to share favored wines with friends. Trolling the cellar, Bill came across and was eager to try this producer label which we opened to enjoy with the cheeses and fruits. 

Long Shadows Vintners Collection Pirouette 2017

We’re members of the Long Shadows wine club and hold nearly a decade of vintages of their various label releases.

Checking our cellar inventory, we hold nearly a decade of vintages of this label so we pulled one of the oldest in our holdings, and one year adjacent to a recent earlier release tasting. We supplemented our wine club allocation with several bottles of this label acquired at auction, which we opened tonight. 

As I wrote in a recent blogpost - Pirouette Red Blend at Sullivan’s Steakhouse Naperville, this is one of our favorite labels for a Bordeaux varietal red blend, a sleeper, not well known or sufficiently regarded, given the pedigree of the winemaker and the quality of the product. 

This is the Bordeaux varietal red blend from the Long Shadows Vintners's Collection that features world class winemakers and Washington State Columbia Valley fruit. 

This label is produced in collaboration with legendary winemakers Philippe Melka, named one of the top nine winemakers in the world by Robert Parker, and Agustin Huneeus, Sr., another legendary wine producer. 

We visited their initial collaborative project, August Huneeus’ Quintessa Vineyards, crafted by Philippe Melka, as part of our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 2003.  

I’ve written about Philip Melka numerous times in these pages including that tasting at Sullivan’s Steakhouse post and previously - Château Boswell Napa Valley Estate Reserve Red Wine 2016. I featured Huneeus in a recent blogpost here - Faust Napa Cab with St Pat’s Dinner.

We’ve featured Long Shadows and their vintners collection in these pages, including our visit to their hospitality center and tasting room in Woodinville (WA), as part of Seattle Wine and Dine - Washington State Wines Tastings in Woodinville.

The 2017 Pirouette is a left-bank Bordeaux blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 13% Malbec, and the rest Petit Verdot, crafted from small lots from Washington State's finest vineyards.  It was aged 22 months in French oak barrels with 85% being new.

 

Winemaker notes - “The Cabernet Sauvignon, primarily sourced from a collection of Red Mountain’s best vineyards, gives Pirouette the structure and textured richness that has come to characterize this acclaimed growing region. A small percentage of old vine Cabernet from Sagemoor Vineyard, planted in 1972, adds complexity. Merlot brings juicy richness to the finished wine. Malbec from Sonnet Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills adds spice. Finally, Dionysus Vineyard’s Petit Verdot enhances the wine’s color and contributes to the wine’s layers of intense aromas and flavors.’

“The 2017 Pirouette has an expressive nose with a firm core of dark fruit and mocha flavors, displaying a layered concentration of black cherry and well-integrated oak spices. Vibrant and full-bodied across the mid-palate, this is a texturally pleasing wine with a broad and lengthy finish.” 

This was a blockbuster release, rated 96 points by Jeb Dunnuck and International Wine Report, 94 by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and 93 by Steve Tanzer.

Dunnuck wrote - “It can be drunk today but will develop additional complexity with 3-4 years of bottle age and keep for two decades or more.”

Dark ruby colored, full bodied, vibrant expressive expressive vibrant blackberry, plum and black currant fruits with savory accents of cinnamon and clove spice, bitter dark chocolate and crème de cassis with smooth polished tannins on a sumptuous finish.

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3581703

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3581703

https://longshadows.com/library/pirouette/6951

https://longshadows.com/

@LongShadowsWine

@unwindwine

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2025/04/big-reds-with-tomahawk-beefsteaks.html?spref=tw

Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc for refreshing summer sipper

Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc for refreshing summer sipper

A casual evening at home, continuing our viewing of the Netflix series, Blindspot, we opened this Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc with a plate of artisan cheeses, biscuits and fresh berries. 

We hold a half dozen vintages of this label and pulled the oldest vintage in the cellar as part of effective cellar rotation and inventory management. 

Cliff Lede Vineyards Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Cliff Lede is one of our favorite producers and a visit to the Napa Valley Stag's Leap District estate has been a highlight of several of Napa Valley excursions.

The Cliff Lede winery estate and vineyards with their picturesque sculpture gardens at Yountville Cross Road and Silverado Trail are one of our popular visits during our many trips to Napa Valley. We've had many memorable visits there with the most memorable, our private tour and tasting during our Napa Wine Experience 2009.

In certain vintages this is our favorite Sauvignon Blanc with its bright expressive fruits - pear, lychee, passion fruit and peach with hints of grapefruit and notes of lemon citrus. This 2017 is one of those vintages - butter colored, medium bodied, crisp clean, full flavorful fruits with nicely balanced acidity.

RM 91 points.

Fellow Pour Boy, wind buddy Bill C had posted - "Crisp, clean and refreshing. Pale straw color. Zesty grapefruit and lemon on the palate. Nicely balanced acidity. Always a favorite."

WCC - 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2942346

https://cliffledevineyards.com/

Les Pallieres Racines Gigondas With Pizza

Les Pallieres Racines Gigondas with Pizza

For carry in pizza dinner, we opened what I would call a classic ‘pizza wine’ - full, round, tangy robust with good QPR, lower price point for every day sipping such as with pizza or tangy BBQ.

This southern Rhône varietal based wine is a relatively new label from one of favorite Rhône producers that we discovered during our 2019 visit with owner/producer Daniel Brunier at the Domaine Vieux Telegraph Estate. 

This is produced in a joint collaborative venture with notable wine distributor Kermit Lynch. Our visit, tour and tasting was a highlight of our visit to the Luberon and Southern Rhône that year. We also visited the Vieux Télégraphe estate during our CDP appellation tour back in 1998.

This is very similar in style and comparable in price point to another wine from this same producer, from the same vintage, that I opened for a similar occasion a few weeks back - featured in these pages in this blogpost - Brunier Family Piedlong CDP Red Blend with BBQ Ribs. Then, I pulled that wine to take to son Alec’s and Vivianna’s, since they were with us during our 2019 visit with owner/producer Daniel Brunier at the Estate.

Domaine les Pallieres “Les Racines” Gigondas 2017

This Racines label is produced from thee domaine’s oldest vines, up to 80 years old with an average age of 65 years, grown in red sandy clay, limestone, scree soils. This is one of two Les Pallières labels/bottlings, and is the one that typically is open younger in its life, being riper and more concentrated than the its peers Terrasse du Diable bottling. The profile is typically of soft tannins with fruit that dark, expressive, pure and elegant, with a savory character reminiscent of tapenade. 

It is crafted primarily with 80% Grenache in the blend, with the blend for this release is 80% Grenache 15% Syrah – Cinsault (co-planted) and 5% Clairette, all from the Gigondas Appellation. It ages in cuvees for 10 months, then in foudres for 7-9 months.

The Winemakers for this label are the proprietors of the grand vin, Vieux Telegraph: Frédéric and his brother Daniel Brunier.

This was rated 95 points by James Suckling, 93-95 by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 94 by Vinous, 92-94 by Jeb Dunnuck, and 93 by Wine Spectator. 

At seven years, this is likely at the apex of its tasting profile, but should continue to hold with age for several more years. 

Dark ruby garnet colored, full bodied, dense concentrated and tightly structured yet approachable black raspberry and black currant and black cherry fruits accented with spice, black tea, smoke, finishing with garrigue, licorice, pepper and herbs with a long moderate and slightly edgy tangy, spicy, acidic finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/3131598

https://www.vieux-telegraphe.fr/en/

Arnaut Avenida Boushey Vineyard Columbia Valley Syrah

Arnaut Avenida Boushey Vineyard Columbia Valley Syrah

Sunday evening dinner, we dined in and eagerly opened this just acquired highly regarded Columbia Valley Syrah. I admit I’d never heard of this producer or this highly acclaimed vineyard source, hence I was curious to try this highly rated label that I picked up at Binny’s, our ‘big box’ beverage superstore.

Arnaut Avenida Boushey Vineyard Columbia Valley Syrah 2017

Avennia is the partnership project of entrepreneur Marty Taucher and winemaker Chris Peterson, founded in 2009 based on core principles; “a passionate commitment to signature vineyards and natural processes in the cellar - resulting in timeless, world class wines that are solely and undeniably Washington”. 

This approach and objective is similar to another high profile Washington State producer, Long Shadows, and their Vintners Collection Series of labels, which we love, and have collected as wine club members since discovering them on our trip to the region back in 2017. 

Interesting, that like Long Shadows, Avennia also sources their fruit from contract growers, and promotes their brand through three different tasting rooms in three of the major Washington State wine areas, Woodinville, Walla Walla, at their sole estate vineyard site in the Red Mountain appellation in Yakima Valley. We visited both the Woodinville and Walla Walla wine areas during trips to the region. 

In their first year of production, 2010, they acquired 16 tons of fruit that they transformed to wine that was ultimately released in 2012, Receiving much acclaim in that inaugural release, and affirming and building upon relationships in place with several of the state’s most legendary growers, the stage was set to secure the best fruit in the region for follow-on vintages. More than a decade later, the same core principles continue to guide the direction of the winery and the business.

Marty Taucher, Managing Partner, a native Oregonian, Marty graduated from Oregon State in 1977 and started at then upstart Microsoft in 1984. He went on to lead Public Relations and Event Marketing, then, spent his last five years as Director of Marketing and Brand Strategy for a consumer and online product group.

In 2009, Taucher signed on as a crush intern at DeLille Cellars where he met Chris Peterson and together they laid the plans for what is now Avennia.

Always inspired by new ideas and fresh thinking, Marty is an angel investor. He serves on numerous non-profit boards. When he’s not in the cellar, he’s an avid golfer, a world traveler, and a perfectly reliable

Chris Peterson, Winemaker/Partner was engaged in the Washington wine industry for more than a decade,  working to make some of the state’s most heralded and award-winning wines at DeLille Cellars. 

Together they founded Avennia with the quest to showcase Washington as a unique and compelling place for great wines, acquiring fruit from some of the finest vineyards in Washington, with a specific focus on the grape varieties used in Bordeaux and the Rhône, in light of their similar latitude to Washington, which makes them a natural fit to excel there.

In thoughtfully choosing vineyard sites to match their winemaking style and preferences, they chose not only the vineyard sources themselves, but down to our favorite vineyard blocks. There is an emphasis on older vines, and moderate climates, as these features tend to create wine with more depth and complexity—a balance between fruit and non-fruit characteristics. 

They strive to craft wine that is balanced and harmonious - the fruit, acid, tannin, perhaps oak. 

Avennia "Arnaut - Boushey Vineyard" Yakima Valley Syrah 2017 

The 2017 Syrah Arnaut Boushey Vineyard is 100% Syrah from Dick Boushey's highly regarded vineyard on the western side of the Yakima Valley AVA, considered one of the state's premier Syrah vineyards. 

This is a cooler site, that tends to instill Northern Rhone-like character in the fruit. Dick Boushey was the first grower with whom Avennia partnered. 

From the Boushey site they source three different varieties which go into the three flagship wines. Boushey is best known for Yakima Valley Syrah and Avennia is the only winery that uses both of the oldest blocks of his coveted fruit. The combination of these two Syrah blocks makes up this Arnaut, a wine we have made since our first vintage, 2010. 

The older, called Grand Côte (meaning "great hillside”), produces wine that is piercingly pure and focused, with meaty and mineral aromas backing up its deep blackberry and damson plum fruit flavors. Wines from the second block, Factory Road, show richer body and feature savory cured meat notes, along with orange peel, and a distinct iron note. 

This release was awarded 95 points by Decanter, 93 pints by Jeb Dunnuck and Vinous, and 92 points by Robert Parker and Wine Enthusiast, an Editor’s Choice. 

Aged 18 months in 15% new French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Case production was 354 caees

Winemaker's Tasting Notes - "This vintage brings an exceptional level of finesse to Arnaut, but no shortage of the wild, savory aspects we expect from this wine. The nose features, blueberry, salted blackberry, charcoal-grilled pork chop, asphalt, bittersweet chocolate, bee pollen, and a hint of grapefruit pith. Rich and beautifully textured on the palate, with pure Boushey notes of blueberry reduction, bacon fat, cacao nibs, charcoal embers, and grilled thyme. The elegance here hints at this wine drinking well on release, and it should age nicely for 8-12 years." - Chris Peterson, Winemaker

Dark garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, black berry and black raspberry fruits are layered with intense almost obtuse notes of black pepper with accents of creosote, dark spices, black olive, black tea, garrigue, and cigar leaf.

RM 91

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3277603

https://avennia.com/

PureCru (Napa) Lodi Rosso Sangiovese 2017

PureCru (Napa) Lodi Rosso (Sangiovese) 2017

This is from well known California Winemaker, Mitch Cosentino who has been making wines in Northern California since 1980 when at 28 years of age, he began Crystal Valley Cellars, where he produced wines at a winery in Santa Clara and two wineries in Sonoma County before setting up operations in Modesto and later moving to Lockford, producing wines under the Crystal Valley Cellars and Cosentino Select  labels. 

Mitch produced award winning wines winning medals at the Orange County and Los Angeles County fairs in 1982. In 1986 Cosentino won Best of Class and a gold medal at the Los Angeles County Fair for several of his wines bottled under Crystal Valley Cellars. In those early years he sourced most of his grapes from Central Valley vineyards, but later he began sourcing more grapes from vineyards closer to the coast. 

In 1990 Mitch opened Cosentino Winery in Napa Valley which he operated for 20 years, selling out in late 2010. He consulted for the new owners for a few years but is no longer involved, however, his former winery still carries his name, a tribute to his work in developing the property and brand.

PureCru wines released their first wine in 2007, primarily focused on Napa grown wines from local vineyards, however, some of their wines such as this one, are sourced from other parts of Northern California. PureCru wines do not own any vineyards, rather they source the grapes from relationships with premium vineyards that Mitch has developed over his long career in the valley.

“For many years, I had been reminiscing about creating a small, hands-on winery, like I had in the beginning; the result was pureCru where I released my first premium vintage in 2007, says Mitch.” The pureCru label and brand he regards as a “Winemakers Wine Project,” as he is personally involved in every aspect, from the vineyard to the bottle. 

PureCru Wines was originally established as the result of a business partnership between winemaker Cosentino, a grocer broker, a real estate developer and an oncologist, partners that shared mutual interests in winemaking and golf. So, he and the three friends formed pureCru to focus on small lot wines that are handcrafted to be enjoyed on their own or with food. Today, pureCru Wines is owed by the Scotto family, proprietors of Scotto Cellars.

This label is sourced from family owned and operated farmer growers Mohr-Fry Ranches who started back in 1855 with just row crops and over time grew to develop vineyards and farming 12 varieties of wine grapes, 2 varieties of cherries and over 25 varieties of dry heirloom beans. 

The agricultural history of the Mohrs and Frys dates back to the 1850s when Bruce Fry's great-great-grandfather on Jerry's mother's side, Cornelius Mohr left his job on a whaling ship in the port of San Francisco and began a farming operation on a Spanish land grant in Mt. Eden near what later became Hayward. Today Mohr-Fry Ranches farm 12 unique varieties of wine grapes in Lodi in the central valley of California.

With over 165 years of farming in California over 5 generations, Mohr-Fry Ranches consists of 5 properties in the Lodi area. The grow 12 varieties of wine grapes they grow are: (Alicante, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier & Zinfandel). 

I take a little bit of umbrage with the branding of this wine as the label prominently features the "PureCru Napa Valley" logo implying this is a Napa Valley wine consisting of Napa Valley fruit. While they produce several other labels of such wines, this one is sourced from Central Valley fruit from vineyard sources around Lodi.

While this wine is produced and bottled by PureCru Wines that is based in Napa, it is not a Napa Valley wine. This is misleading and takes improper liberties leading consumers to the believe this is a Napa valley product. Only when one reads the rear label is there a reference to Lodi, while both front and rear labels sport the PureCru logo with the word Napa Valley. 

Wine labels are mystifying and confusing enough for consumers without misdirection or misleading information added. I think this is wrong and should be corrected. 

I am surprised Napa Valley folks don't address this since appellation rules cite that for a wine to be labeled "Napa Valley", it must be at least 70% sourced from Napa Valley fruit to bear that designation on the label. Otherwise, this should rightfully be labeled California or some other specific designation. 

No other region in America commands a greater 'tax' or premium on its wine prices than Napa Valley, as witnessed by the escalation in land prices and associated wine prices over the years. That said, its egregious to attach a Napa Valley label to a wine sourced from Central Valley California - especially in light of the specific rules associated with such labeling. 

In any event, I picked up this Sangiovese based wine, albeit California Sangiovese, at the recommendation of wine merchant Michel Chang at Malloy's Finest wine shop in Lisle ((IL). I try to stop in and support him and other local wine merchants as the Chicagoland market becomes more and more dominated by big box wine and beverage super store Binny's who now has 45 outlets and take a larger and larger market share. As their market presence and share increases, their margins and applicable prices and discounts have become increasingly predatory and less consumer friendly. 

Perhaps Cosentino and Purecru were held to task and they corrected their alleged mis-deeds because as I pull up this label on  Cellartracker, the on-line repository of a million labels, I only find 2017 pureCru Rosso di Sangio in which the 'offending' Napa Valley designation is missing.
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4761278

Another (the only) Sangiovese label listed on the pureCru website is 2016 Purecru Sangio Vetta. The description states, “Proving that Sangiovese can triumph in Northern California, this small production, 38-month barrel-aged red shows all the charm of old-world acidity and vivid red cherry. Its juicy middle is armed with oregano and chervil, with chalky plum skin tannins and a weaving of salty minerality." - Meridith May - Publisher’s Picks"

Composition: 93% Sangiovese, 7% Merlot Winemaking: Each lot was hand-picked and destemmed where it was fermented and then aged individually, primarily French and eastern European oak barrels for over three years then blended about a month prior to bottling. It is released when it is considered ready for tasting, much like a Brunello. Historically this wine from its hillside vineyard has a potential for developing and complexing for up to two decades.

Tasting Notes: Briary with red and black fruit, rhubarb, and baking spices that tend to dominate upfront. Big structured and intense pomegranate and plum with ripe tannins, minerally mountain characteristics. Brunello style, polish, and balance with depth and long aging future. - Mitch Cosentino, Winemaker

Under the "Wine Specs" for that label, it specifically states, Appellation: Napa Valley.

The Cellartracker community records show nine vintages of this label dating back to 2007. Five vintages show labels, four of which refer to this wine being Napa Valley Sangiovese, except the fifth for the 2007 vintage, which interestingly designates "California Sangiovese". 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2181367

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1332407

Notably, that label logo for PureCru, does not mention Napa Valley. Should this same treatment be applied to this 2017 Rosso label as well?

Other similarly situation and branded PureCru wines and their appellation designations are:

Vintage	Wine	Appellation
2015	Rosato di Sangio	Lodi
2014	Purety White Meritage	Napa Valley
2013	Chardonnay	Napa Valley
2012	Sangio Vetta	Napa Valley
2009	Pure Coz Red Blend	Napa Valley
2017	pC Verdelho	Lodi
2017	pC Rosato	Lodi
2015	pC Rosso	Lodi

I don't know or can't tell the intent, or the outcomes of this branding confusion, so I leave it here. 

Never-the-less, the focus on Sangiovese by Cosentino continue where he writes:

From pureCru "Spotlight on Sangiovesse", 4 wines from 1 grape ... Rosso di Sangio,  Brut Rose, Nuovo, Rosato

From Mitch: "While pureCru Winery is a Napa Valley Winery, occasionally we will acquire grapes from an old Lodi family that has been growing prized fruit for many decades. I first discovered them in the early '90's. I found Mohr-Fry vineyards to be growing grapes to Napa Valley standards. Exceptional quality with excellent balance. I still use several grapes they grow for clients for whom I make wine. And I still use one of their youngest vineyards albeit about 25 years old. The grape is Sangiovese. This vineyard is quite amazing because over the years I have made award-winning Red and Rose wines from these grapes."

This offering is somewhat unique, based on rare American, California (not Napa Valley) Sangiovese. The specific label from this vintage calls this PureCru (Napa Valley) Rosso. The rear label denotes Lodi Sangiovese and mentions the Mohr-Fry vineyard sources. It states the blend is 89% Sangiovese and 11% Alicante Boushete.

Traditional Rosso comes from the Italian designation once called 'Vermiglio' (vermilion), Rosso di Montalcino, a dry, fruity red wine produced in the village of Montalcino in Tuscany. Rosso comes from the same area of origin as the prestigious Brunello di Montalcino, sharing the same Mediterranean climate and also based on 100% Sangiovese. 

In the modern era, Sangiovese is now blended with Bordeaux varietals in the Tuscany region in wines called Super Tuscans, a branding and wine style that has gained much notoriety and become very popular. As noted, this wine is a blend is 89% Sangiovese and 11% Alicante Boushete.

Somewhat opaque garnet colored, medium bodied, notes of black berry and black cherry fruits with tones of tobacco, black tea and hints of smoke and oak with a smooth moderate finish. 

RM 89 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4767044

As noted above, this Cellartracker record and label did not exist until I created it just now. 

https://www.purecruwines.com/

https://www.purecruwines.com/blog/Spotlight-on-Sangiovesse

https://www.mohrfry.com/

https://www.purecruwines.com/Wines