Showing posts with label Stalworth. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stalworth. Show all posts

Saturday, February 28, 2026

Pour Boys Wine Group - OTBN 2026

Pour Boys Wine Group - OTBN - Open That Bottle Night 2026 

For the fifteenth year in a row, our Pour Boys Wine Group gathered together to celebrate OTBN - Open That Bottle Night. As is customary, the annual OTBN wine event – Open That Bottle Night OTBN is held on the last Saturday night in February. This year was the 25th such event since its creation in 2000 by Dorothy Gaither and John Brecher wine columnists for the Wall Street Journal. OTBN was established to set aside to share and compare special bottles of wine, that have been held in our cellars, waiting for the special occasion to open, that hasn’t yet come, so as to eventually succumb to the inevitable, its time, open that bottle (to)night! 

Tonight's wine flight offered an extraordinary selection of wines including no less than five 100 point perfect score labels!  While we don't subscribe to the ratings and rankings as our true north, they do provide a valid benchmark for judging a label.

Last year, we all traveled to Charleston (SC) for a getaway weekend to visit fellow Pour Boy Bill and Beth as featured in this blogpost - OTBN 2025 in Charleston.

OTBN 2026 was our fifteenth straight year, since 2011, that we have celebrated together,  Last year we traveled to Charleston (SC) for a getaway weekend to visit fellow Pour Boy Bill and Beth.  That an abbreviated replay of our OTBN - Open That Bottle Night - 2023, which was also held in Charleston, as featured in these pages in this blogpost, excerpted below. 

Invariable, OTBN provides an opportunity to gather with like minded friends and share and compare a selection of spectacular wines!!!
 

The last two years we followed the seasons, striving to head south during the winter, and back north during the other seasons. After our October gathering, it was decided Chicago was a more amenable meeting point this year so we agreed to host on the traditional end of February date.  

This year we were joined by regular’s Lyle, Dan, and John (below), who came in from Williamsburg, and Eric & Cathy who just returned from a tour in Italy. 

We were joined this year by son Ryan and two of his wine buddies, Brian W and Mark C, and son Alec. 


My remarkable wife Linda, loves to cook, and single-handedly prepared a wonderful dinner of tenderloin Beef Bourguignon, an extensive medley of roasted vegetables, pomme purée, and a course of ramekins of lobster medallions with fresh croutons and butter, a fresh mixed salad and extensive charcuterie and cheese course. 

She also spent the previous day preparing the Chocolate Mousse and Beef Bourguignon sauce. 


 

Prior to dinner there was an extensive selection of artisan cheeses, charcuterie, fresh fruits, mixed nuts, artisan chocolates and shrimp cocktail.  


 

As to be expected, we had a fabulous extensive flight of extraordinary wines - Champagne, whites, reds, and dessert wines.

As he is known to do, “Champagne John” brought two exceptional single vintage Champagnes.  

Krug Brut 2011 

The final blend of this vintage is forty-six percent Pinot Noir, thirty-seven percent Chardonnay and seventeen percent Pinot Meunier. 

This was a star in a challenging vintage ... It was rated  98 points by James Suckling, 97 by Jeb Dunnuck and Wine Spectator, 96 by John Gilman and 94 by Decanter. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4926833

https://www.krug.com/en-int 

Tattinger Champagne de Comtes Grands Cru Blanc de Blanc 2007 

Another highly acclaimed top rated label - this was rated 98 points by James Suckling, 97 and Cellar Selection by Wine Enthusiast, 96 by Decanter, Vinous and Int'l Wine Review, and 95 by Wine Advocate and John Gilman. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1555753

https://www.taittinger.com/en 

In addition, for the cheese and salad course shrimp and lobster, there was a diverse selection of interesting white wines - a traditional Napa Chardonnay, two Rhône blends and a Spanish Priorat. . 


Merryvale 'Silhouette' Napa Valley Chardonnay 2017

This Napa Valley label is sourced from “the best Chardonnay blocks on the historic Stanly Ranch and Hyde vineyards” in Carneros.  This bottling represents the best Chardonnay fruit of the vintage. 

The wine captivates with aromas of orange blossoms, jasmine, and candied pineapple, evolving as it opens. Full on the palate, the unctuous mouthfeel is brilliantly supported by the wine’s natural acidity, leading into a long finish that showcases the traditional minerality and freshness of Stanly Ranch.

This premium limited release label is packaged in a distinctive heavy painted bottle showing the 'silhouette' images of the producers. 
 
 
Winemaker Notes - The 2017 Silhouette Chardonnay has an intense nose filled with exotic fruit notes including pineapple, stone fruit and tangerine, and a fragrant vanilla finish. The mouth is very round with a nice sweetness and very clean minerality. The wine is dense and ample with a touch of sweetness and citrus (yuzu) finish. A very balanced and elegant wine with a stylish touch of oak and a beautiful finish.

It was rated 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, and 92 points by James Suckling, Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.

The wine fermented in barrel with native yeasts and full malolactic. It was aged 16 months with the full lees in 40% new French oak. 700 cases were produced. 
 
 
 
Lillian California Rousanne 2015

This is produced by Maggie Harrison, legendary winemaker who gained fame working at Sine Qua Non, known for ultra-premium Shiraz. This white wine is a unique Rhône Valley varietal, Rousanne.


From the winery: "The goal with all Lillian wines — Roussanne, Syrah, Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon — is to work with these historical, noble varieties in a sun-drenched place but raise the wines in such a way that gives the wines levity.  

Lillian is also winemaker for the ultra-premium Antica Terra, in Dundee, OR, who shares the winery and tasting room with Lillian.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2739240

https://www.lillianwinery.com/

https://www.lillianwinery.com/lillian-wines/

E. Guigal “La Doriane” Condrieu (Viognier) 2014

This is from iconic prolific producer E. Guigal, known for their vast portfolio of wines - this Northern Rhône Viognier is a blend of five-choice parcels from the Condrieu appellation, vinified separately and blended just before bottling.. 

It the was rated 96-97 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 95 by Wine Spectator, and 93 by James Suckling and Vinous. 

Parker’s Wine advocate writes - “The 2014 Condrieu la Doriane is a sensational white with full-bodied richness, awesome purity and integrated acidity. Deep, rich, lengthy and profound, it’s up there with some of the greatest Condrieu ever made.”

Winemaker Notes - “La Doriane is a luxury cuvée of Condrieu that E. Guigal has produced since the 1994 vintage. A great success since the firstvintage, the wine always seems richly oaked and very fruity when young, transforming in 3-4 years into a seamlessly complex,aromatic and vibrant wine. La Doriane contradicts the accepted wisdom that Condrieu does not age well.” 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2118402

Another unique white varietal … 

Laurel Blanc Clos i Terrasses Priorat 2023
 
 
This is the artwork of producer/winemaker Daphne Glorian, the visionary behind Clos i Terrasses, long celebrated for her exceptional red wines in Priorat. The Priorat wine region in northeastern Spain, is 90 miles southwest of Barcelona in the Catalonian province of Tarragona. It is the only other appellation besides the Spanish region of Rioja to achieve the highest quality level in Spain, Denominación d’Origen Qualificada (DOQ).

In 2023, Glorian expanded with this inaugural release of Laurel Blanc, crafted from Priorat’s Clos i Terrasses estate vineyard  on a recently acquired 13-hectare parcel in Les Manyetes near Gratallops on the Mediterranean coast.

The Laurel Blanc 2023 is a blend crafted with 85% Garnacha Blanca, 8% Chenin Blanc, and 7% Viognier. The grapes were hand-harvested in early meticulously destemmed and gently pressed using a manual press. Fermentation occurred with native yeasts in a combination of 400-liter barrels and amphorae, where the wine matured for seven months. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?5283639

https://www.europeancellars.com/wine/laurel/

Moving to the dinner course of Beef Borgogne and roasted vegetables we had a broad diverse flight of exceptional reds … 


In the true OTBN tradition of opening bottles that have long been held in the cellar waiting for that special moment, I served three aged vintage classics from Napa, Bordeaux and McLaren Valley …. Both 1986’s, at forty years were still in good condition, label, foil, and importantly, the corks and fill levels. Same for the 1990 vintage release. 
 

Dominus Napa Valley Red Blend 1986 

This classic wine is the US Napa Valley offering from this legendary French producer Christian Moueix - owner of an extensive collection of some of the world's greatest vineyard properties. He founded the Napanook vineyards and winery in 1983 on the historic property that George Yount planted some of the very first vines in Napa Valley back in 1838.
  
This is the next to last bottle of a full case I acquired on release. Opening one every couple of years, it wasn’t until bottle 8 or so that it started to show its true potential. The last bottle opened was past prime and at the end of its drinking window. This one, a couple of years later was still approachable and enjoyable, more so on day two. 

Back in those days, from 1983 to 1991, Dominus labels were were a ‘artist series’ of pencil, chalk or watercolor drawings of the legendary producer, Christian Moueix, making for a fun collection. We still hold bottles from those years 1983, ‘86, ‘88 and ‘90, at least. 
 
In a horizontal tasting of the 1986 vintage releases Robert Parker's Wine Advocate wrote - "One of the richest, densest, most concentrated offerings in the entire tasting, it also proved to be one of the best-balanced, with better integration of acidity and tannin than many 1986s exhibited." He rated this 93 points.   
 
At forty years, the label, foil and most importantly the fill level and cork were still in ideal condition, taking into account their age! The cork extracted entirely intact using an 'Ahso' two pronged cork puller. 
 
 
 

Chateau Montrose St Estephe 1986 

Interesting mini-horizontal tasting of these two 40 year olds wines. I recall reviews of the 1986 Bordeaux release and pundits talking about how long it would take for those wines to be ready to drink. Parker said his grandchildren would benefit from aging some of those labels. 
 
Tonight, this was very much approachable, enjoyable, still in its drinking window, with a few years yet to go. 
 
This bottle was acquired upon release back in 1988 and has been stored in our cellar ever since. At forty years, the label, foil and most importantly the fill level and cork were still in good condition. The cork was partially saturated but still extracted intact using an 'ahso' two pronged cork puller. It might have been retrieved using a traditional corkscrew but is clearly nearing the end of its functional life.  
 
Decanter rated this 98 points and wrote, "This is a masterclass in the ageing aromas of Bordeaux."
 
Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon (67%
), with Merlot (27%
) and Cabernet Franc (6%
). 

Wine Spectator rated it 95 points and a *Spectator Selection*. Wine Advocate gave it 92 points. 
 
We drove by the Montrose Chateau estate and vineyards during our Bordeaux region tour in 2019.  
 
 
 
http://www.chateau-montrose.com/ 

Penfold’s Grange Hermitage 1990 

This is part of our special birthyear vintage collection where we hold several bottles from the birth year vintages of our kids. This label in particular is special as it was also Wine Spectator’s #1 Wine of the Year back in 1995 and was rated 100 points, and a near perfect 99 points by Decanter.
 
Penfolds Grange has been awarded over 30 perfect scores from top wine critics around the world, including 100 points from both Wine Spectator and Robert Parker's Wine Advocate for the 2008 vintage and eight perfect scores for the 2018 vintage.

In addition to serving this at son Alec and Vivianna’s wedding celebration, we also toasted their engagement with this label as well. We’ve featured it in these previous wine posts - 


In a tasting back in September 26, 2020, it was WOTN - Wine of the Night in a tasting.
In a previous tasting in October, 2019 ... 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/10/parents-son-dinner-features-birth-year.html

October 26, 2019 - Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, flawless, elegant, polished, harmonious, perfectly balanced, silky smooth flavors of concentrated black berry and black raspberry fruits with notes of vanilla, licorice, spice, black truffles and oak with hints of spice and cedar turning to fine grained tongue puckering tannins on the long lingering finish.

Consistent with earlier tasting of this label, dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, flawless, elegant, polished, harmonious, perfectly balanced, silky smooth flavors of concentrated black berry and black raspberry fruits with notes of vanilla, licorice, spice, black truffles and oak with hints of spice and cedar turning to fine grained tongue puckering tannins on the long lingering finish.
 
 

Dan brought Kathryn Hall Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 

We’ve visited the magnificent Hall Rutherford estate vineyard and winery on several occasions and met Kathryn together at the Kathryn Hall Vertical Tasting - Hall Wine Release Tour 2015. Our visits to the Hall Rutherford site have been highlights of several of our Napa Valley Wine Experiences including our trip in 2013 and again in 2017.

Dan also brought a Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2017 

Lyle brought his customary Vintage Port for the dessert course, and a Super Second Bordeaux … 

Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 2014 

This is one of our favorite producers of which we hold a large collection dating back four decades. Our Visit to Château Ducru Beaucaillou was a highlight of our visit to the St Julien Appellation in Bordeaux back in 2019. 

Beside the Champagnes, and the Viogner, John brought a fabulous arguably Super Second Margaux …

Chateau Palmer Margaux Bordeaux 2016

John brought this spectacular 100 point ‘super second’ Margaux, from one of our favorite producers. 

Upon opening, I immediately considered this a candidate for WOTN - Wine of the Night!

At ten years old, this is just beginning to settle and integrate and start showing its true character and potential. We’re still holding this label going back to our kid’s birth years, 81, ‘82, ‘85 and ’90. We opened the ‘81 in magnum format for Christmas dinner just last year. 

It was rated 100 points by Wine Enthusiast, Vinous and Jeb Dunnuck, who rated this 100 points and wrote, "The finest vintage I’ve ever tasted from this estate, surpassing the 2009 and 2010, the 2016 Château Palmer."

It was rated 98 points by James Suckling, Wine Advocate and Decanter.  

This release is a blend of 47% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance Petit Verdot, all of which was brought up in 65% new French oak. This release should keep for half a century. (Jed Dunnuck) 

We stayed within walking distance of the Chateau during our Bordeaux wine Experience back in 2019. Regrettably, we played phone tag over several days and were never able to synch up to confirm our tasting tour. We did walk over and see the magnificent Chateau and grounds. 


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2594466 

https://www.chateau-palmer.com/en 

Primissimo Puglia Salento Negra Amaro 2021 
 
Eric & Cathy just returned this week from Italy and brought this limited release Italian Nebbiolo that they obtained while staying at the Producer’ estate winery … 

Primissimo is an organic wine produced by Guy Martin, a Michelin-starred chef who discovered, fell in love with and acquired wine estates and a nine acre vineyard in Nardò in the heart of Solento, in Puglia in Southern Italy. The site is organically farmed land, the vines grow in clay-limestone soil, nourished by the ample sun and the Mediterranean climate - “exceptional terroir gives the wine its structure and roundness, and a strong Mediterranean identity that is both wild and controlled.”

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5696827

Son Ryan arrived with wine buddies Brian W and Mark C, each with a couple of notable wines to share and compare. 

Ryan brought from his cellar two spectacular 100 point labels …

Sine Qua Non “The Hated Hunter” California Syrah 2017

 
This classic, highly allocated label is named after winemaker Manfred Krankl’s grandfather. The 2017 Syrah "The Hated Hunter" is 82.4% Syrah, 7.8% Petite Sirah, 5.2% Mourvèdre, 2% Grenache, and the rest a mix of varieties that spent just over 23 months in 59% new French oak. 

Sine Qua Non produce Rhone Ranger wines from primarily Rhone varietals sourced from four different vineyard sites in the Central California Coast.

It was rated 100 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 98 points by Wine Advocate, and 96 points by Vinous. 

This may have been the clear WOTN - Wine of the Night, except I would put it in almost its own category ... apart from the Bordeaux varietal labels.   

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3368169

http://www.sinequanon.com/ 

Cliff Lede Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

Cliff Lede is one of our favorite Napa Valley producers. We've visited the estate several times and our tastings there have been highlights of several of our Napa Valley trips.  

https://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa-09/lede-0909/napa_harvest_09_lede.htm 

This was arguably my WOTN - Wine of the Night, (amongst the Bordeaux varietals, although the Turnbull was notable, and the Bordeaux blends were in a class by themselves). 

This was rated a perfect 100 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 98 points by Wine Advocate, 96 by Int'l Wine Review, 95 by James Suckling, Wine Spectator and Vinous/

Suckling wrote, "The Cliff Lede, 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon is pure perfection in a glass. This extraordinary wine is unquestionably one of the finest in this report and has an awesome, singular style that's hard to believe."
 
Jnt'l Wine Review wrote, "The 2016 Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon from Cliff Lede is an absolute monster. This colossal wine instantly grabs your attention with its impressive opaque, dark inky color and intense aromas of ripe black and blue fruits which are joined by fresh violets, graphite and sweet exotic spices that all come together and burst from the glass."
 
Vinous wrote, "The 2016 is one of the finest editions of Cliff Lede's To Kalon Cabernet I can remember tasting."
 
 
 
Ryan's buddies Brian and Mark brought the Laurel Blanc Priorat, above, and some notable big Napa Valley reds. … 

Stalworth Napa Valley Rutherford Bench Cabernet Sauvignon 2021


This is the product of Sabrina and Timothy Persson who took over the family Napa Valley winery in 2012. They farm two vineyards on the Rutherford Bench of Napa Valley, known for narrow alluvial fans that spill out from the Mayacamas foothills along the western edge of Rutherford and Oakville. These ancient deposits marry depth and complexity with natural drainage, compelling the vines to reach deep into the soil while tempering vigor. 

The two vineyards showcased by Stalwørth sit along Napa Valley’s western benchlands and share the hallmarks of the Rutherford Bench, yet each brings its own distinctive voice. 

The Rutherford vineyard is a small, organically farmed site producing more red-toned fruit with supple tannins and graceful texture. 

The Oakville vineyard is a small, dry-farmed vineyard at the base of the Oakville Grade, yielding darker fruit with a refined, velvety structure. Together, these vineyards capture the full range of the western benchlands’ character, complementing each other in balance and expression.
It is crafted by legendary winemaker Celia Welch. 

Turnbull Black Label Oakville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 

Turnbull Winery sitting on St Helena Hwy in Oakville, are owners and farmers of four premiere estate vineyards in Napa Valley, 90 acres in Oakville and 60 acres in Calistoga dating back over four decades. 

This is their ultra-premium label sourced from the Oakville vineyards, primarily from the Leopoldina vineyard and the remaining 30% of the fruit from the Fortuna vineyard. 

The Fortuna vineyard sitting atop the Oakville bench with a western exposure was the original homestead of the pre-vine era Weitz cattle range and then home to the first vines planted in the area. 

The remainder is from the historic Fortuna vineyard site from pre-Prohibition and originally sourced by the venerable Christian Brothers winery. Fortuna sits at the base of the gently sloping Oakville Bench, on the eastern side of the Oakville appellation. 

Only 62 cases were produced in this select bottling. 

This release was rated 96 points by Vinous and Wine Enthusiast (Cellar Selection), 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator and 92 by James Suckling.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4115879

https://www.turnbullwines.com/ 

Altamura Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Altamura Vineyards and Winery, established in 1985 by Napa natives Frank and Karen Altamura, is the only winery in Wooden Valley located within the Napa Valley appellation. Born and raised in Napa Valley, Frank began working with his cousin, a vineyard manager, right out of high school working at Sterling Vineyards in 1976, the at Caymus with mentor Charlie Wagner for five years.

Their sprawling 400 acre Altamura Ranch in historic Wooden Valley, on Mt George at the south end of the Vaca Mountain range that forms the eastern wall of Napa Valley, high above the town of Napa. The historic ranch was settled by members of Karen Altamura’s family back in 1855. Frank and Karen cleared 65 acres and planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese on six different sites. Caves were dug and they constructed a stone winery at the Altamura Family home in Wooden Valley.

We visited the Altamura estate winery on one of our first Napa Valley trips back in the late 1980's. 

Their hillside and valley floor estate vineyards in Wooden Valley are at elevations of 700 to 1000 feet with diverse soil types on the ranch which are similar to the Rutherford Bench and the mountainous regions of Howell Mountain, Pritchard Hill and Mount Veeder.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3830998

https://www.altamura.com/ 

Son Alec arrived and brought this interesting Napa Cab .. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3830998

https://www.altamura.com/

Soquel Partner’s Reserve Atlas Peak Stagecoach Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

Soquel is a small winery on Glen Haven Road in the Santa Cruz Mountains high above the south end of Silicon Valley. They also produce several labels in concert with several neighboring growers partners as well as this label, sourced from the historic Stagecoach Vineyard on Atlas Peak in Napa Valley. 

This label was rated 95 points by Wine Advocate, 93 by Vinous and 92 by Jeb Dunnuck.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3005686 

https://soquelvineyards.com/ 

For finishing the evening Linda prepared her delectable chocolate mousse. For an accompaniment, Lyle opened his signature Vintage Port, and I opened a limited production Austrian dessert wine. 

As the night wore on, the boys raided the cellar and pulled some additional interesting reds to taste and compare … including the Penfold’s Grange, mentioned above, and this limited release Diamond Mountain selection … 

Constant Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

At twenty years, this is very much in stride at the apex of its drinking window. We tasted and acquired this label at the Estate, high atop Diamond Mountain during our Diamond Mountain Wine Experience - Constant Vineyards & Winery back in 2011. 

Taylor Fladgate Quinta de Vargellas Vintage Port 1995

If John is the 'Champagne guy', Lyle is the 'port guy' ..., although he's acquired a collection of and has been bringing some spectacular Brunello's in recent years ... as well as the occasional Bordeaux ... 

Taylor’s is one of the oldest of the founding Port houses dating back to 1692. 

The Taylor's Port Quinta de Vargellas vineyard was acquired in 1893 and is now a Class A vineyard, one of the pre-eminent among the wine estates of the Douro dating back to the 1820s. It ranks among the great vineyards of the world.

Wine Spectator cited this as "Ranked #10 Top 100 Wines of 1998", and gave it 92 points. 

Vinous rated it 94 points, and John Gilman gave it 91 and gave it a drinking window out until 2030 - "Drink between 2011-2030"

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19047

https://www.taylor.pt/ 

And I pulled from our cellar some aged TBA's from Austria … 

Kracher Welschriesling Trockenberenausliese Zwischen Den Seen Number 8

From the Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee region, we hold more than two dozen labels of this Austrian producer’s releases spanning more than two decades. 

https://mcnees.org/winesite/labels/label_library_pages/label_library_Europe.htm 

These rare ultra-premium dessert wines are fun to watch as they age, turning from straw colored, to butter, to golden, to weak tea and to tea colored, as shown here at twenty-five years. 

They were great to taste over the ensuing week for sipping with a variety of entrees and desserts. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=19088 

http://www.kracher.at/ 

 


At the risk of missing some wines, and numerous photos, and not clipping Links to other pages, I’m publishing this now, before it’s ready, as I’m getting on a jet plane and don’t know when I’ll get an opportunity to finish this post … Watch for updates and a cleaned up version … 

And THANK YOU to all that attended for sharing some great wines!!!
 
Posted by at No comments:
Labels: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Location: 4R52PP4H+4X

Sunday, May 12, 2024

Mother’s Day Surf ‘n Turf dinner paired with ultra-premium wines

Mother’s Day Surf ‘n Turf dinner paired with spectacular flight of ultra-premium wines

We were blessed to have all four of our children drop in for Mother’s Day. Some had to move on to mother-in-laws for dinner but Ryan and Alec were able to stay. 

After some spirited blistering pickleball on the driveway court we settled in to a fabulous dinner with some spectacular wines. 

For a very special Mother’s Day dinner we dined on the deck and Linda prepared surf ‘n turf lobster tails and ribeye beefsteak served with grilled asparagus and baked potatoes. Son’s Ryan and Alec brought over from their cellars some ultra-premium wines, which I supplemented with some labels from our cellar.



Our initial wine flight included these labels plus a couple others … 

Kistler Durrell Vineyard Sonoma County Chardonnay 2019 

Ryan brought from his cellar this classic, legendary producer single vineyard select Chardonnay. Kistler produce one heritage Californian selection Chardonnay based clone planted across fifteen select vineyards, from Carneros to Sonoma Valley, to the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. From those sites they produce eleven vineyard designate Chardonnays, each representing the unique terroir of the site.

This label, Durrell Vineyard Chardonnay, has been bottled since 1986, sourced from a vineyard at the bottom of Sonoma Valley where it meets the Sonoma Coast and Carneros appellations. The site contains loamy soil that is heavily influenced by a vein of stone that runs through the blocks that are dedicated to this label. 

Winemaker notes for this release - “Pale yellow. Luxurious perfumes lift high, pinned by the marine-earthen tones of the lower reaches of Sonoma Valley/Carneros. Fully ripe yellow and orange citrus flesh and blooms, and a golden fruited body lead to a silken-weighted middle, sparked by natural acids and a lengthy finish that persists with hints of herbed nut oils. The weightiest of our fall release wines but so driven by its well-integrated acidity, that it belies its own density and sits perfectly balanced.”

This release was awarded 97 points by Lisa Perrotti-Brown of The Wine Independent and James Suckling, and 95 points by Vinous, Antonio Galloni.

Golden straw colored with light green hue, medium-full bodied, polished nicely integrated and balanced, expressive vibrant notes of lime, lemon and grapefruit citrus with notes of stone fruit and minerality with smooth acidity on the long finish.

RM 93 points, 

https://www.kistlervineyards.com/wines/2021-durell-vineyard-chardonnay/


Cuvée 'L' Veuve Doussot Champagne NV 

This Pinot Noir Chardonnay blend Champagne comes from the southern Aube region, the vineyards surrounding the village of Noé-les-Mallets in the Côte-des-Bar, situated near the house of general Degaulle and its memorial, opposite the village of Troyes. The area is closer to Chablis than the center of the Champagne region, with a warmer microclimate ideal for Pinot Noir. 

The Champagne house of Veuve Doussot has been home to several generations of winegrowers, involved in all aspects of growing and producing wines since 1746. Today it is run by third generation Stephane Joly.

The Joly family have been winegrowers and producers in the heart of the Champagne region for over a century. In 1970, Georges Joly and his sons created the first Veuve Doussot brand, continuing the family winemaking history set by his grandfather, father and uncles. 

Stephane Joly took over after the death of his father. He restructured the vineyard taking over parts from his cousins, and took over all aspects of  winemaking, marketing and distribution. He is a member of the commandery of “Saulte bouchon Champenois” and local member of the general winegrowers union.

The vineyards are 90% planted to Pinot Noir, best suited to area for its soil rich with clay and limestone. To add fresh and floral flavours to the Champagne they also grow Chardonnay; creating a smell and a taste unique to the distinctive terroir. Because of the proximity to Chablis, you often find similar veins of the chalky Kimmeridgian soil, interspersed with red clay and limestone.

The Veuve Doussot portfolio includes 10 different Champagne cuvees, a few still wines, and an excellent Ratafia (an aperitif made from distilled Champagne grapes).

This cuvee is primarily composed of Pinot Noir, blended with 15% chardonnay, and aged in the classical Champagne tradition, on the lees in bottles for a minimum of 18 months. The dosage level here is designated as Brut.  

This was rated 92 by Wine Enthusiast. 

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, rich and textured, intense bright pear, melon, green apple and citrus fruit flavors with toasty pain grille notes accentuated with dusty rose, white flowers and chalky minerals ending with a bright, crisp finish.

RM 91 points. 

Viña Cobos, Vineyard Designate Malbec, Marchiori Estate, Luján de Cuyo, Argentina, 2019

Ryan brought the remains of this bottle from his cellar. We first tasted this wine when Ryan served it at a family gathering about a year ago, which I wrote about in detail in pages at that time, excerpted below. 

Viña Cobos is the Argentine project of legendary California winemaker/producer Paul Hobbs. 

In addition to his global consulting career, Paul Hobbs has navigated producing wines globally, engaging annually in two harvests across nine countries.  Today, Paul is the owner and winemaker for Sebastopol, California based wineries Paul Hobbs Winery and Crossbarn, as well as his international partnerships: Viña Cobos of Argentina, Crocus of Cahors, France, Yacoubian-Hobbs of Armenia and his two latest projects in development: Hillick & Hobbs, focusing on Finger Lakes riesling, and Alvaredos-Hobbs in Galicia, Spain.

Paul Hobbs visited Mendoza in Argentina in 1989 and started working with Malbec, exploring different terroirs of Mendoza, looking for the most distinguished regions in Luján de Cuyo and the Valle de Uco, to produce wines that uniquely express their origins.

He established Viña Cobos in 1998, After twenty years of experimenting, development, innovation and improvement, Viña Cobos has evolved to become internationally recognized for producing luxury-class wines and a world quality leader for Malbec based wines. Viña Cobos creates extraordinary wines of outstanding quality, highlighting Malbec as the emblematic variety of Mendoza.

With the inaugural vintage of Cobos Malbec in 1999, Viña Cobos marked a milestone in viticulture, defying existing standards and firmly positioned Malbec and Argentina on the international wine scene.

Viña Cobos, Vineyard Designate Malbec, Marchiori Estate, Luján de Cuyo, Argentina, 2018  

The winery’s elegant and balanced wines are a result of meticulous vineyard farming and utmost attention to showcasing the specific terroir of the region. This Malbec is sourced from Estates and vineyards in Luján de Cuyo and Valle de Uco. The Marchiori Estate is the cornerstone of Viña Cobos. Malbec grapes grown in block C2 have been the key source since the inaugural vintage release, Cobos Malbec 1999. 

Luján de Cuyo is the premier growing region of Mendoza, fed by the snow-melt of the Andes through the Mendoza River. High altitudes range from 945 - 1,100 m (2,624 - 3,608 ft). The soils are alluvial, with a subsoil of clay, sand, silt and rock.

Valle de Uco with proximity to the Andes Mountains characterizes this cool, high altitude region. Vineyards sites range from 900 - 1,400 m (2,950 - 4,600 ft) in elevation. The soils are alluvial, sandy and rocky, and in some areas, limestone.

In addition to Malbec, Viña Cobos grows and produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay.

The 2015 Cobos Marchiori Estate Malbec was awarded 98 points by JS. This release was awarded 97 points by James Suckling and 95 by Wine Spectator.

Winemaker Notes - “Cobos Marchiori seduces with its extraordinary aromatic richness, it is an intense and elegant wine, in which its great freshness stands out. It shows an intense red color with violet tones. We find red fruit, cassis, plum, spices, blond tobacco, coconut, white pepper, chocolate and subtle notes of cardamom. The richness on the nose is repeated in the mouth in an exquisite way. It is long and sweet, with soft tannins. A meaty and complex wine, with a long finish on the palate.”

“This is really dynamic and focused with blueberry, blackberry and mineral character. Hints of lavender and sandalwood. Full body, yet so tight and lifting. The palate just grows at the finish which goes on and on. Juicy, meaty and dried herb flavors at the end,” writes James Suckling..

The first release of this wine was 2018, under the 'Viña Cobos Vineyard Designate' label. The Viña Cobos Vineyard Designate line captures the richness and power of exceptional vineyards and estates within Valle de Uco and Luján de Cuyo. 

This was dark inky purple colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated extracted black and blue fruits with notes of bacon, tobacco, black tea, spice and herbs with a full lingering finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4240423 

https://www.paulhobbsselections.com/vinfata-cobos
 
https://twitter.com/VinaCobos 

@VinaCobos

Stalworth Rutherford Bench Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Ryan also brought this recently acquired limited release label to try to determine his cellaring strategy and expected drinking profile. 

This is the Rutherford Bench label from co-owner and general manager of the Stalworth project Tim Persson who, with his wife, Sabrina, took over his father-in-law's wine business, Hess Family Wine Estates, which today is called Hess Persson Estates. 

Tim took over running the wine estates after spending time with his father-in-law, Donald Hess, during the post-financial crisis in 2010 and 2011. In 2012, Tim and his wife moved to Napa Valley to oversee the estate and family wine business.

Tim has a unique background being raised in one of the smallest African countries, Eswatini – Africa's last absolute monarchy, previously known as Swaziland. After attending university in Europe, he became a corporate lawyer and practiced in New York and London before meeting his wife Sabrina.

Tim oversees and leads the wine business as Sabrina tends to her psychotherapy practice. Together they managed to navigate a series of setbacks and natural disasters including the 2014 earthquake that destroyed one of their main wine cellars, the landslides in 2016 that cut off power and access to the winery, wildfires in 2017 causing the winery only being able to make a small fraction of its high-end wines due to the wildfires and the smoke, and wildfires agin in 2020 forcing them to make no Napa wine at all.

Yet, Tim's initial mission to "reestablish" the credentials of Hess with regards to making high-end Cabernet Sauvignon wines was never deterred. As he thought about the 30th anniversary of Hess Family Wine Estates, celebrated in 2011, it was now his responsibility to make sure that the winery stayed relevant for the next 30 years and that is where Stalworth comes in. 

For the Stalworth project, Tim searched for a great Napa winemaker who would oversee creating an iconic wine from the Rutherford Bench, raising the bar when it came to Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon wines. 

He as able to sign Celia Welch, an expert in making iconic Rutherford wines including the hard to obtain Scarecrow. They found the ideal vineyard in the Rutherford Bench in 2015 but the back-to-back unfortunate events of extreme accumulation of drought from 2012 to 2015 as well as all the disasters suffered from 2014 to 2017, put off the first vintage of Stalworth until 2018 - considered a "spectacular year" that is "terroir-driven" according to Wine Spectator. 

Celia said that they used that delay time to learn the vineyard and to experiment in the winery with the wines in building up to and preparing for the inaugural vintage. During that time, they also had to rebuild the original historic antique stone winery, built in 1903, that had been destroyed by an earthquake, allowing them to build a state-of-the-art facility setting the stage to reach greater heights.

This 2019 Stalworth, Rutherford Bench, NapaValley is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a minuscule amount of Malbec and Petit Verdot. 

Winemaker notes - “Delicious cassis flavor to this wine that has lots of juiciness with blackberry preserves and baking spice with sweet tobacco leaf and crushed rocks all wrapped up in lush tannins and a superb length of flavor.”

Adding a slight amount of Malbec and Petit Verdot, according to Celia, was more about "balancing the texture" as there might be either a dip in the mid-palate that needs to be filled in or maybe some rounding out as she always wants the last sip to be tasty as she wants to avoid any astringency. 

This was dark ruby colored, full bodied with elegant polished blackberry and black cherry fruits with notes of black tea, floral and anise with smooth polished tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

Only 167 cases were made of their inaugural release in 2018.

Del Dotto ‘Vineyard 887’ Connoisseur Series Colbert French Oak St Helena Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 

I pulled from the cellar this special limited release label from Del Dotto Vineyards, a family-owned winery which focuses on small production, premium wines. Since our introduction to Dave and Yolanda Del Dotto back in the 90’s they have gone on to acquire several more vineyards across the top Napa Valley American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) including Rutherford, Oakville, St. Helena, Spring Mountain, Howell Mountain, as well as out on the Sonoma Coast. 

Through our wine club allocations and purchases at the various Del Dotto wineries over the years, including the St Helena Winery and Caves, and the Piazza Del Dotto Winery in Oakville, this producer represents one of the largest holdings in our cellar collection, dating back to their inaugural releases in 1993-94. 

We’ve visited three of the Del Dotto winery estates including one of the most memorable wine tasting events we have had in Napa - the delicacies culinary wine pairing at Piazza Del Dotto during our Napa Wine Experience 2018. 

We’ve featured Del Dotto tasting and site visits many times in these pages including  our Del Dotto Winery and Caves tasting tour the year earlier, when we acquired this bottle. 
With small production counts and a dedicated team, they produce luxurious, high-quality wines. This is from their Rutherford estate, which consists of 12 acres of Bordeaux varietals. Robert Parker has praised the producer: "Don’t dare miss a tasting at Del Dotto’s cellars... Dave Del Dotto has put together an impressive team of winemakers and spent a fortune securing some of the best vineyard sites money can buy. All things considered, his wines, which he calls “silk juice,” are exceptional in quality, along with his charcuterie, which really could be sold for a small fortune, given the amazing quality it exhibits.”

  • In the unique, almost excessive Connoisseur Series, Del Dotto uses over 50 barrel types from cooperages around the world including France, USA, Russia, Hungary and Italy. Bottles are labelled with the oak type. For this single vineyard release the Del Dotto website lists no less than 37 different wines featuring different specific oak barrel and vintage combinations.


    Our Pour Boys wine group tour the Del Dotto
    St Helena Winery and Caves 
    I pulled from our cellar this ultra-premium single-vineyard designated select Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This was especially fun to taste this label as it represents some pleasant memories of our Napa Valley wine tours. We tasted and then procured this wine during our Napa Valley, Del Dotto Winery and Caves Tasting and Tour in 2018.

    This single vineyard designated select label is crafted from fruit from the Del Dotto 887 St Helena Vineyard. 

  • The vineyard is named for the address, 887 St Helena Highway, on the south approaches into the town, the picturesque vineyard sits just north of Zinfandel Lane nestled against the foothill along St Helena highway. It consists of nine acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, planted in 2000. 

    Rick & Linda with David Del Dotto, 2003

    Located on the south end of the St. Helena Appellation, Vineyard 887 is one of the highest rated vineyards in Napa Valley. It is purported to be the favorite vineyard of the producer.

    This vineyard shows the typical St. Helena characteristics of lush, fruity berries, with easily accessible tannins on the palate. 

    The inaugural vintage of an 887 Vineyard single vineyard designated wine/label was in 2004. By 2012 it was receiving 96-98 point ratings from Robert Parker. 


      

    The property also is the site of a guest cottage, amidst the vineyard surrounded by the vines. Linda and I had the pleasure of staying in the cottage during a memorable weekend at the Napa Valley Del Dotto winery, estate, vineyards and cave tour back in 2003 (left).

    The single vineyard designated label didn't exist back then, it came along the next year, but we didn't discover the label until our 2018 estate and winery visit and tour. We purchased this label at that time, much in remembrance of that earlier visit, and had great anticipation of tasting this wine again, which we finally did tonight. 


    Del Dotto Napa Valley Vineyard 887 St. Helena Connoiseur's Series Colbert French Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 

    This is a classic Napa Valley Cabernet Savignon, crafted in the unique Del Dotto method, it is part of the Del Dotto Connoisseur's Series where the same wine will be aged in different oak barrels of different oaks for the ultimate comparison tasting experience. We once did a horizontal tasting of the same wine aged in several different French and American Oak barrels. I recall this oak, was my favorite from that tasting, although many of the differences are very slight and nuanced. 


    This version was aged in Colbert French Oak. Robert Parker gives this wine 95 points and an aging window of 2018 out to 2040. 

    We have hosted wine dinners where we served a selection the Connoisseur Series of the same wine aged in different oaks. Only the discriminating experienced enophiles appreciated and discerned the differences. 

Winemaker notes - “This is a very unique and dense Vineyard 887 Cabernet Sauvignon bouquet.  Powerful aromatics of leather, cedar, tobacco and blueberry and boysenberry fruits.  As the nose opens up, nuances of purple rose pedals and sweet Tahitian vanilla bean develop. The mouthfeel is very balanced and soft, yet rich from the mid to back palate. This lovely Reserve Cab showcases cassis, black currants and raspberry with an undertone of dark chocolate covered strawberries. The 2015 887 is drinking beautifully right now and will continue to unfold layers of flavors for the next 10+ years.”

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex, concentrated, forward, structured black berry and tangy black currant fruits with notes of pipe tobacco, black tea, graphite and hints of milk chocolate, anise and spicy cinnamon turning to firm but silky smooth approachable tannins on the long tangy acidic lingering finish. This is getting better every year. In 2020 I wrote, this needs a few more years to settle, soften and integrate further. It’s working as this was delicious and likely will continue to improve with some more aging over the next several years. I wish I had more. 

RM 94 

https://www.deldottovineyards.com/collection/vineyard-887

https://www.deldottovineyards.com/product/2015-vineyard-887-family-reserve-cabernet-sauvignon-750ml

Beau Vigne “Cult” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

Alec brought this ultra-premium Napa Valley Cabernet. 

This producer first caught our attention when buddy Bob brought one of their wines to our Pour Boys OTBN - "Open-That-Bottle-Night" 2022 in Charleston and I pegged it as WOTN - Wine of the Night, my personal favorite. Bob picked up the bottle at his local Total Wine beverage superstore in Boca Raton Town Center. I saw the label when there and also at the new Total Wine in Indy. 

Soon thereafter, son Ryan got their wine club promotional mailing and shared it and Alec and I picked up a mixed case of their Signature Series Bordeaux varietals including this aged vintage release from their library close-out. Since then we’ve continued to collect various labels and releases from their collection. 

I’ve written about Beau Vigne in several blogposts in these pages, (pronounced bo-veenya), Beau Vigne was founded by Ed and Trish Snider with their first vintage release in 2002. Translated from French it means beautiful vineyard in French.

Ed’s family has a long history in Napa Valley dating back to his Swiss Italian grandfather Martin Garzoli who arrived in Napa in 1913. He grew up on a ranch in Carneros and worked on farms in Napa and Sonoma. Martin made his own wines at home in the evenings. His son John Garzoli played for the San Francisco 49ers in 1955 and went on to coach football at St. Helena High School in the center of Napa Valley where children of many vintners attended school. A number of Ed’s former students are now in the wine industry.

In 2018, they sold Beau Vigne to Don Dady and Jason Kyle from Arizona. Jason was a former NFL football player, a long snapper for five different teams including the San Francisco 49ers. In addition to his wine interests, Jason is co-owner of Press Coffee Roasters with locations in Arizona.  Partner Dady is co-founder of Annexus, a financial company in Scottsdale and also owns Seven Apart Winery in Napa Valley just north of the city of Napa. 

Beau Vigne sourced fruit for their estate wines from their 10 acre Stags Ridge Vineyard at the top of Soda Canyon Road on the slopes of Atlas Peak at about 1650 feet elevation. The site was planted to 8 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and an acre each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Ed sold the vineyard and it is now a part of Seven Apart Winery’s estate. Beau Vigne continues to source grapes from there and other premium vineyards in Napa Valley. 

Since 2019, Beau Vigne has partnered with Appellation Trading Company to distribute Beau Vigne as part of their portfolio of brands. 

Over the years, Beau Vigne has been crafted by several highly regarded Napa Valley winemakers. Their founding winemaker was Dave Phinney who went on to develop several successful brands, most notably, Orin Swift Cellars and the Prisoner portfolio of wines. One of our favorite winemakers, Kirk Venge of Venge Vineyards has also crafted Beau Vigne wines. Today the winemaker is Julien Fayard.

Originally from France, Julien began his career as a winemaker producing quality rosé at his family’s winery in Provence. He worked at legendary Chateaux Lafite Rothschild and Smith Haut Laffite in Bordeaux before relocating to Napa Valley where he was Philippe Melka’s director of winemaking for a few years before setting out on his own.

Julien earned his Master in Agri-Business from ESA France and his Master in Winemaking from Toulouse France. In 2011, he received his MBA from UC Davis. 

Recently, Beau Vigne became part of a select collection of vintners represented at Vintner’s Collective, the city of Napa’s oldest collective tasting room. They showcase wines from an elite group of premier Napa Valley producers who do not have their own tasting rooms. Select bottlings and vintages of Beau Vigne are available for tasting and purchased there. 

Beau Vigne bottles wines under three different brands; the Legacy Series, the Signature Series and the Discovery Series.

Beau Vigne “CULT” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

First released in 2008 and is culled solely from barrels selected with complex aromatics, voluptuous texture and purity as well as depth. CULT is produced to “convey a pure expression of climate and soil with winemaker Julien Fayard nurturing its creation,” according to the producer. ‘

This label is a bit of an enigma, Release priced at $150, some sellers play on the ‘Cult’ label and market dynamics and sell it for $200. Yet, it can be found discounted at $99, and often for less. 

The 2020 Cult is a blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc and a dash of Petit Verdot magic.

Winemaker notes - Crushed black currant and bing cherry aromas. Among these scents are black licorice, clove, and melted dark chocolate. Flavors of shortbread, blackberry, and plum hit the palate. Loamy black truffle elements add layers of savoriness to the long finish.

Garnet colored, medium full bodied, tightly structured, ripe black currant and blackberry fruits with notes of anise, clove spice and bitter dark chocolate and cedar with moderate tannnins on a lingering finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4476435
Posted by at No comments:
Labels: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Subscribe to: Comments (Atom)