Christmas dinner offers medley of festive wines

Christmas dinner offers medley of festive fine wines - old world, new world ... Left Bank, Right Bank ...

The tree was trimmed, the stockings were hung on the fireplace, and the house was decorated and lit up as the entire family gathered for a festive Christmas celebration and dinner. In all, there were twenty-six of us assembled for the gala festivities. 

 This is how we imagined our house decorated for Christmas ! ! ! In reality it looked like this ....

Linda prepared a Bone-in Prime Rib and Beef Tenderloin with Beef Bourgogne sauce, mashed potatoes, mixed vegetables and haricot verts, and cranberry fruit jello. 

The kids brought an extensive cheese and charcuterie board, shrimp cocktail and a selection of Christmas cookies. 

The gala provided an opportunity to open a broad medley of wines and Champagnes. 

For the cheeses and charcuterie and salad courses, and to celebrate the recent birth of grand-daughter Millie to Alec and Vivianna, we opened a birthyear vintage Champagne.

Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé 1990

The House of Delamotte is the fifth-oldest Champagne house in the historic wine region, founded in 1760 and is the little sister winery to the legendary House of Salon producing just 25,000 cases annually, and are both run by Didier Depond. The two wineries sit side-by-side in the heart of the Côte des Blancs in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger to the south of the village of Epernay. 

This vintage Delamotte is made from 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay. Winemaker notes - Delamotte Blanc de Blancs exhibits absolute purity, with the vinification process taking place in stainless steel tanks. Blanc de Blancs is a mineral champagne, with a chalky sensation achieved by a modest addition of reserve wine (10% maximum). This particular note is the very essence of the Delamotte vineyard and its Chardonnays, which grow in a pure chalk soil. The wines tend to be a little austere when young, which they manage by allowing maturation on the lees – far longer than the statutory fifteen months – extended to four or five years before disgorgement. Ageing after disgorgement continues to perfect the finesse and elegance of the final cuvée.

This vintage release was awarded 95 points by Wine Spectator, Ranked #15 Top 100 Wines of 1998 and Highly Recommended, 92 points by Wine Advocate, and 91 points by International Wine Cellar.

Its always a risk to hold vintage wine, and moreso for Champagne, for long term cellaring and aging, in this case, collecting birthyear wines to served at special occasion such as this. Upon opening, the bottle didn't 'pop' from the release of pressure as is customary with sparkling wine. We were worried it was gone, having lost its effervescence, but, in the end, it was very approachable and tasty for memorable and enjoyable drinking.  

Wine Spectator said, "Mouthfilling and wonderfully flavorful but not overpowering, blends abundant ripe fruit flavors with a subtle mousse and weaves great complexity with an elegant restraint. Like a classic Meursault that sparkles." 

Wine Advocate called it "'other-worldly' exquisite, loaded with leesy, wheat thin, buttery flavors, exceptionally complex, rich flavor, yet oh so delicate and light. It seems obvious that the quality of the 1990 Champagne vintage is going to be remarkable."

International Wine Cellar said, "Complex, smoky aromas of lemon, spring flowers, minerals, marzipan and spices; like a grand cru white Burgundy. Vibrant and ripe, with beautifully integrated acidity and superb flavor intensity. Big but fine. The palate-cleansing aftertaste features a note of caraway seed. "

One fellow Cellertracker, ThompsonandFrench held this same vintage until Christmas last year and on 12/27/2022 had a similar experience noting, "Initially tasted like it was over & wld last for 10 mins tops, but give it those 10 mins, and it become heaven! Limited sparkle, rich and delicious. Moorish - very." He 'Liked' it and gave it 95 points.

After settling this was delightful, mature but complex and tasty, we gave it 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=572333

https://www.champagne-delamotte.com/en/

We then moved from the 'old world to new world' and opened this American sparkler ....  

King Estate Willamette Valley Brut Cuvee Sparkling Wine 2016

King Estate is a 1033 acre vineyard complex and state of the art winery situated atop the rolling slopes in the Coast Range foothills, near the southern end of Oregon's Willamette Valley producing Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. King Estate also has an innovative culinary program.

Willamette Valley’s cool climate is ideal for growing fruit that is well suited for sparkling wine. The 2016 King Estate Brut Cuvée was four years in the making and eight years since they last produced a sparkling wine.

Winemaker Notes - A luxurious nose awakens the senses with aromas that carry through to the palate: bruised apple, lemon and flowers along with toast, biscuit, fresh bread, slate and walnut. Tiny bubbles create an excellent mousse followed by bright and fresh acidity that rounds out nicely on the mid-palate. Stark and yet elegant acidity on the finish provides backbone with a complexity that lingers.

This is a Blend of 83% Pinot Noir and 17% Chardonnay, mostly estate sourced by also from neighboring growers within the Willamette Valley AVA, the fruit was predesignated for the sparkling program based on how it ripened.

Winemaker Tasting Notes - "A luxurious nose awakens the senses with aromas that carry through to the palate: bruised apple, lemon and flowers along with toast, biscuit, fresh bread, slate and walnut. Tiny bubbles create an excellent mousse followed by bright and fresh acidity that rounds out nicely on the mid-palate. Stark and yet elegant acidity on the finish provides backbone with a complexity that lingers."

Light, crisp and refreshing. RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3784770

https://kingestate.com/

We then moved to red wines, and in light of the beef entrees, we opted for pairing with blends with their increased complexity. We pulled from the cellar a couple of classic Bordeaux Grand Cru Classes', a Right Bank with its Merlot predominance, and a Left Bank with Cabernet Sauvignon focus. We also selected a selection from the new world, one in a right bank style and one left bank to compare with the aged mature old world offerings. 

Prior to the blends, for casual sipping we opened a favorite Napa Cabernet. 

Hall Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Vérité "La Muse" Sonoma County Bordeaux Blend 1999

I written often in these pages about Jess Jackson (1930–2011) who founded what became one of the most successful family-owned wine companies in the world. Jackson’s lengthy career spanned more than 30 years in pursuit of his vision and passion to produce extraordinary wine from California’s best vineyards. Over the years Jackson Family Wines developed and acquired nearly forty iconic brands as the empire expanded beyond California Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Monterey and Santa Barbara counties to Oregon, and beyond our borders to Australia, France, Italy, Chile and South Africa. 

The meteoric rise of Jess Jackson was chronicled in the book A Man and His Mountain, the story of self-made billionaire Jess Jackson and his pursuit of his dream to build a brand of premium varietal based wine for the mass market. His accomplishments over the ensuring two and a half decades exceeded all expectations achieving the art of the possible building a multi-billion dollar wine empire. I wrote about the book in these pages in this blogpost - Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2018.

From the earliest days, Jackson had longed to create wines that would be just as good as the world’s best wines and was confident that the terroir in Sonoma County had that potential.

Jackson first met French Vigneron Pierre Seillan during a visit to France in the 1990s. A friendship developed between the Jackson family in California and the Seillan family in Bordeaux.  When Pierre Seillan visited California in 1997, he bought in to Jackson's vision to develop the potential of Sonoma County terroir and Vérité was born.

Pierre Seillan has spent the previous five decades perfecting his micro-cru philosophy to create world-class wines from diverse terroirs. He teamed with Jack to use the same approach to capture the unique expressions of Sonoma County that he applied in Bordeaux, and Tuscany in each vintage.

Seillan’s wine career began at Bellevue, his family's estate in Gascony, France, where he learned to grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and several white varieties. Later he focused on Cabernet Franc at Château de Targé in the Loire Valley. Seillan then spent two decades in Bordeaux making wine at several châteaux across eight different appellations, where he discovered the distinctive nuances between various vineyard sites. He perfected his micro-cru approach to build elegant and complex architecture in  his wines that reflected their source sites.

Beginning in 1998, Pierre Seillan has crafted the wines of Vérité, joined by his daughter Hélène Seillan who stepped into the role of assistant winemaker at the estate.

Born in 1987, Hélène Seillan spent her childhood in both France and California, surrounded by family and friends for whom winemaking was as much a passion as it was a profession. Following in her father’s footsteps, Hélène pursued a career in winemaking and began splitting her time between Sonoma County and Saint-Émilion. Starting in 2006, she served as assistant winemaker for her father at the family’s Bordeaux estate, where she worked on all aspects of winery management showing the same talent, passion and ability as her father. Hélène studied Viticulture and Oenology at the Institut Rural de Vayres in Bordeaux.

Vigneron Pierre Seillan carefully crafts each blend of Vérité from the mosaic of more than 50 “micro-crus” across four Sonoma County appellations, each contributing its unique palette of aromatics, flavors, textures and structural elements he needs to craft the wines of Vérité. Each micro-cru is harvested and fermented separately, then aged in French Oak barrels of various custom toasts.

Seillan carefully tailors his winemaking techniques and oak regimens to the personality of each lot, providing him with hundreds of unique components he can use to create the architecture of the final blends of three distinctive labels of the Vérité portfolio, La Muse, La Joie and Le Désir.

La Muse is the label developed in the style of the Right Bank of Bordeaux, delivering the incredible depth and texture with a Merlot-based blend from the top micro-crus of eastern Sonoma County.

This 1999 release was the second vintage of this ultra premium producer label, it was composed of a blend of 89% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon (84% of the fruit from Sonoma and 16% from Napa).

It was rated 97 points by Wine Advocate and 93 points by Vinous.  

At twenty-four years, the label, foil and most importantly the cork were all in pristine condition. The wine was likely at its peak, but not likely to improve further with more age. 

Garnet colored, medium bodied, complex yet balanced, integrated, elegant and polished, soft and smooth black and red currant and plum fruits highlighted with notes of cedar, tobacco, expresso and hints of leather and forest floor turning to smooth fine and mildly sweet tannin. 

Robert Parker noted - "plush and vinous, seamless and energetic, in the mold of an old-style Pomerol. (Right Bank Bordeaux appellation)"

RM 92 points. 

Winemaker Notes - "This wine is noticeably denser and richer in texture than the 1998 Vérité. The wine retains a similar lineage with red and black fruit characters and a velvety texture. What one notices last is the broad finish that lingers on the palate." 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=421

https://www.veritewines.com/wine/la-muse/1999

https://twitter.com/verite_wines

https://www.jacksonfamilywines.com/

Melka "Métisse" Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2003 

If you're selecting a Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend, one can't get a more authentic representation than a label produced by French Bordeaux turned Napa winemaker Phillip Melka. 

I've written often in these pages about Phillip Melka and his Bordeaux heritage and experience, his Napa estate wines and his influences and collaborations across Napa Valley and beyond, including as a contributing winemaker in the Long Shadows Vintners Collection program. 

Melka CJ Napa Valley Cabernet BYOB at Carnivore & Queen

Long Shadows Duo Showcase Katy Business Dinner

Château Boswell Napa Valley Estate Reserve Red Wine 2016

Melka's influence even reaches here to Illinois where Phillip was the mentor for Eric White of Galena Cellars Vineyards and Winery in Galena, IL, whom we met during our stay in the estate guest house during a getaway holiday week.

Philippe grew up in Bordeaux, earned his degree in Geology at the University of Bordeaux and later his Master’s degree in Agronomy and Enology. His first wine job was at Château Haut Brion in Bordeaux. His first introduction to the Napa Valley came in 1991 as an intern with Christian Moueix, proprietor of Chateau Petrus in Bordeaux and Dominus in Napa Valley. Philippe came to Dominus to study soils – then spent a few years as a traveling winemaker and ultimately settled in the Napa Valley in 1994.

Melka Estates started with Philippe and Cherie Melka sourcing fruit for their first two labels, two wines  named in honor of their two children Chloe and Jeremy and Metisse. They have since grown to four collections, CJ (a red blend very approachable in its youth sourced from premium vineyards throughout the Napa Valley), Metisse (a word that means ‘blend of cultures’ with wines from the Napa Valley), Mekerra (from the property they own in Sonoma County) and Majestique (single vineyard wines from outside of the Napa Valley). As a footnote, one quickly realizes the affinity the Melka’s have for the letter ‘M’.

This 2003 Metisse, is a blend in the Left Bank Bordeaux style with 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot, sourced from the famed Madrona Ranch Vineyard. The 2003 is a Bordeaux blend based on 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, from Jim and Stephanie Gamble's Madrona Ranch vineyard located near Spottswood at the foot of Spring Mountain on the edge of the town of St Helena.  

This vineyard is located on the eastern side of Saint Helena, at the base of the Mayacamas where it is protected from the northern and western winds. This old river bench settles mostly large gravelly sediments and a small portion of thinner clay particles which explains why varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit verdot and Merlot were planted. This 3.5 acre estate is reminiscent of the Graves area of Bordeaux.

Winemaker's Notes - "The wine from this vineyard displays classic profile of gravelly soils characteristics; dark and red cherry layered with spices, the wine is perfume, seductive and refined."

"Bright medium ruby. Black plum, black cherry, caramel and violet on the nose. Sweet and round but high-pitched, with nicely integrated acidity lending freshness to the dark berry and licorice flavors. Finishes with fine tannins and excellent length. The 2004 Metisse is full ruby. Black plum, minerals and a hint of game on the slightly wild nose. Dense, silky and lush but with perfectly integrated acidity and a violet florality giving this rather claret-like wine a distinctly juicy character. Offers terrific subtle sweetness and finishes with outstanding persistence."

This label was awarded 93 points by Wine Advocate and 92 points by Int'l Wine Cellar.

Bottled in June 2005 after aging 19 months in 59 gallon French barrels, 75% new oak, 520 cases were released in the Spring of 2006. 

Winemaker's Notes - "This wine is a densely structured full bodied Cabernet with a deep red color. The aromatics are a mix of blackberry, tar and chocolate with floral overtones. The wine is rich with dark fruit flavors, possessing layers of complexity which give it such dimension and character. The finish is silky."

This may have been the WOTN - Wine of the Night, it was certainly my favorite of the evening being in the style that I prefer.

At twenty years, the label, foil and most importantly, the fill level and cork were in ideal condition. This was likely at its apex although not likely to improve with further cellar aging.

Bright ruby colored, medium-full bodied, full round bright vibrant flavors of sweet plum, blackberry and black currants with notes of mocha, caramel and violets with hints of creosote on a smooth polished fine tannin laced lingering finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=199889

https://www.melkaestates.com/

https://twitter.com/MelkaEstates

Cos d'Estournel Grand Cru Classe St Estephe Bordeaux 1989

One of the classic historic Left Bank Bordeaux producers, we hold a dozen plus vintages of this label dating back to the 1979 which we featured in a blogpost below, including this 1989, and large format birth-year vintage bottles that we have served at family special events and celebrations as featured in these blogposts:

Family Celebration Dinner Features Birthyear Vintage Wine,

Birthyear vintage magnum Cos d'Estournel

Other posts featuring vintages of this label dating back to the 1979 vintage..

Pour Boys Impromptu Wine Dinner on the deck

OTBN 2019 - Open That Bottle Night

We visited the magnificent historic iconic Chateau Cos d' Estournel during our visit to the Medoc in the summer 0f 2018. Leaving the Pauillac town and appellation, driving past Chateau Lafite Rothschild, one crosses a miniscule creek leaving Pauillac and entering the St Estephe appellation. Rounding the bend and climbing the gentle hill, the iconic gate looms over the highway framing the historic Chateau, overlooking the estate vineyards across the road with the Lafite estate in the distance. 

Chateau Cos d’Estournel is a Second Growth Bordeaux from the Bordeaux classification of 1855. The estate is located on the border as one leaves Pauillac and enters St.-Estephe, adjacent to and looking across the vineyards at Chateau Lafite Rothschild. The historic iconic Chateau sits atop the hill and emerges in full view as one rounds the bend on the D4 route. According to the producer,  'Cos' means "the hill of pebbles".

Its oriental facade is adorned with three pagoda turrets, all cast in a soft golden sandstone. Chateau Cos d'Estournel today covers 170 acres separated from Chateau Lafite, along the southern edge, by the stream between St. Estephe and Pauillac. The chateau is surrounded by 160 acres of vineyards planted to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot.

The gravelly soil, over a flint, limestone and silicate subsoil low in nitrogen, has eroded over centuries to form steep ridges which perfectly drain the vineyards. The vineyards are planted 60 percent in Cabernet Sauvignon vines, 2 percent of Cabernet Franc, and 38 percent in Merlot. Naturally, the percentage of Cabernet or Merlot in the composition of each vintage depends on the climate for that vintage which favors one grape variety or the other.

Founded in the 18th century by Louis Gaspard d’Estournel, the chateau’s wines were in demand all over the world from the 19th century. The chateau was bought and sold many times during the late 19th and 20th centuries, and in 2000 it was acquired by Michel Reybier, who has managed it and maintained it's excellence.

Robert M. Parker Jr. has noted that Cos d’Estournel “has been particularly successful in difficult vintages” and “remains impeccably managed.” Some 200,000 bottles of the signature Cos d’Estournel are produced each year. 

Our Cellartracker records indicate we still hold a half dozen vintages of this label from the eighties and nineties including a half case of this vintage release.

We acquired and have held this bottle in our cellar since release - the foil and label are like new, the cork was intact despite starting to saturate. Again, evidence our cellar conditions are suitable for decades aging fine wines. 

This release was awarded 95 points by Robert Parker and his Wine Advocate, 94 points by  James Suckling, 93 points by Wine Spectator, and 18.5/20 points by Jancis Robinson. Parker was prescient when he projected to "Drink now-2025" back in 2010.

Garnet colored with a slight tinge of brown rust bricking, medium full bodied, complex, concentrated, rich black berry and black cherry fruits with notes of leather, tobacco, coffee, herbs, spice and hints of cedar with lush tannins and crisp acidity on a long aromatic finish.  

RM 93 points. 

Fellow Cellartracker'er Vinnut Reviewed and "Likes this wine" just last month and gave it 93 points. Reading his review, it was 100% consistent with out experience tonight, even down to the saturated yet intact condition of the cork. I respectfully repost his review here below which sums up perfectly our tasting this evening.

"Medium-dark garnet in color with slight clearing at the edges. Full, forward & fragrant nose of ripe fruit aromas of dark cherries, blackberries & cassis with overtones of classic cigar box notes of cedar & tobacco, leather, graphite, floral notes of violets, herbs, forest floor/loam, mushrooms, minerals, cocoa, tar & some sous-bois notes. Medium-full bodied with a very good concentration of well balanced & smooth textured, ripe fruit flavors of dark cherries, blackcurrants & cassis with herbs, mushrooms, minerals, coffee & a slight hint of oak/vanilla. Long lingering silky-smooth finish. Drinks quite well at present with decanting & airing. At 34 years of age, I doubt any further development would occur from additional aging, but it should hold here for another 4 to 5 years. Fill was in lower neck; cork was saturated 1/2 up but intact."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1624

https://www.estournel.com/en/ 

https://twitter.com/Cos_dEstournel 

Swithing from the Left Bank back to the Right Bank, another 1989 vintage Bordeaux .. 

Château Pavie Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé 1989

Château Pavie, situated on Saint-Emilion's limestone plateau and Pavie-Decesse is one of the "happy few” Saint-Emilion Grands Crus Classés. It is the Premier Grand Cru Classé flagship of the Perse family portfolio of estates that includes Saint-Emilion Châteaux Pavie, Pavie-Decesse, Monbousquet and Bellevue-Mondotte and Clos Lunelles in the Côtes de Castillon appellation.

All are managed by  owner Gérard Perse who move to Saint-Emilion in the early 1990s and purchased Château Pavie in 1998, followed a year later with the purchase of Grand Cru Classe Pavie Decesses.

The first Pavie vines were planted in Saint-Emilion on the "Pavie Hillside” south east of the town of Saint-Emilion, which previously grew red-fleshed peaches on the hills, a variety called "Pavie peaches” gave their name to the vineyard. Over time, peaches give way to vines.

The estate dates back to early owner Ferdinand Bouffard, a Bordeaux négociant, who inherited the Domaine de la Sable. Gradually, and over twenty years purchased the smaller neighboring vineyards of Pigasse, Chapus, Fayard and Dussaut to create a property of almost 125 acres which would become Château Pavie. Bouffard continued to vinify and sell each property's wine separately: Larcis-Bergey, Pavie-Pigasse, Pimpinelle, Clos Simard and La Sable.

Bouffard passed and the individual domaines continued through the First World War while awaiting a new owner when in 1919 they were acquired by Albert Porte. He sold Pavie-Pigasse which would become Pavie-Decesse, and united the other domaines to create the current Château Pavie.  

In 1943, Château Pavie was purchased by Alexandre Valette, a négociant from Saint-Ouen who already owned the neighboring vineyard of Troplong-Mondot. 

In the first Classification of Saint-Emilion wines in 1955, Pavie achieves the rank of Premier Grand Cru Classé "B”.

Jean-Paul Valette sold Château Pavie to current owners Gérard and Chantal Perse in 1998.

Château Pavie was promoted to the rank of Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé "A” in 2012.
Appellation

 

In 2001, Perse purchased the Château Bellevue-Mondotte property which is just several vines distant from Pavie and Pavie-Decesse, a 'little jewel' of but 5 acres in size, situated on excellent terroir at the summit of Saint-Emilion's famous limestone plateau. The second part of the Château 's name, reminiscent of its famous neighbours La Mondotte and Château Troplong-Mondot, became Château Bellevue-Mondotte's with exceptional terroir.

In 2001, Gérard Perse, already owner of the famous Château Pavie, Pavie-Decesse, Monbousquet and Bellevue-Mondotte, creates « Esprit de Pavie » A Bordeaux red wine.

The estate is planted to 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon with an average age of the vines being 43 years. Annual production is 70 000 bottles.

Château Pavie has diverse terroirs: typical of the Saint-Emilion limestone plateau composed of clay-limestone soil on an asteriated limestone subsoil, located at an altitude of approximately 85 meters above the Dordogne River. The terroir is called "milieu de côte" (middle of the slope), located approximately 55 meters above the Dordogne and composed of very fine brown limestone. 

Today, Perse's daughter Angélique, along with son-in-law Henrique, and their two children, born in Saint-Emilion, live at the property.

Château Pavie Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé 1989

This release predates Gérard Perse's acquisition of the estate by almost a decade and does not quite match the highly acclaimed 1990 Pavie, but it continues to drink well. It was awarded 90 points by Wine Spectator and 17.5/20 points by Jancis Robinson.

Like the Cos above, at thirty-four years, the fill level, label, foil and importantly the cork, were all in pristine condition - the cork showing slight saturation but still integrally intact. This was past its apex but pleasant and still within its acceptable drinking window, but at a point where it will no doubt diminish from age here forward.

Garnet colored, medium to full-bodied, balanced, smooth but relatively simple blackberry fruits with notes of mushroom, tobacco, dusty rose and hints of milk chocolate with soft fine tannins and elegant texture on the moderate finish. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=20878

https://www.vignoblesperse.com/en/chateau-pavie/home

https://twitter.com/Chateau_Pavie

 

Following dinner we opened several other festive bottles for sipping with deserts ... 

Madame de Beaucaillou 2018

Fluffy Billows Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Josh Phelps GW Steady State 2015

Merry Christmas!

Pour Boys Winers & Diners 23 Cityscape Beef Tenderloin Wine Dinner

 

Pour Boys Winers & Diners 2023 Cityscape Beef Tenderloin Wine Dinner

Our 'Pour Boys' wine group gathered prior to the Indy 500 race weekend in Chicago and were hosted by Lyle and Terry for their customary 'Winers & Diners' CityScape beef tenderloin dinner. 

As usual, it was a wonderful evening of friends and fellowship that included an extraordinary dinner and wine experience with a broad extensive selection of fabulous wines featuring some new labels and old cellar favorites. The gathering pulled together an extraordinary, spectacular selection of fine wines for the tasting - two rated 100 points and five rated 95 points or higher. 

The group were joined by 'Champagne John' who brought his customary spectacular sparklers, a pair of ultra-premium vintage labels, and Steve, who brought his usual ultra-premium vintage Borgogne. 

This year we were joined by newcomer Pour Boy, Tom C, who joined the Pour Boys in their traditional wine-pouring duties at the UGCB 2020 Vintage Release Tour Chicago 2023 tasting in January. Tom and Lisa brought a trio of premium Borgogne Chardonnays.

Host and hostess Lyle and Terry prepared their usual extensive fabulous dinner with Lyle grilling scallops and beef tenderloins, accompanied with escalloped potatoes and asparagus wrapped in prosciutto.

 

 

 The Hor'd Ovres and starter courses before dinner included a broad selection of shrimp cocktail, grilled scallops, an extensive selection of artisan cheeses, with fresh vegetables, fruits and nuts, deviled eggs and more. The soup course included Vichysoiss with fresh baked biscuits. 

The Champagne course included a pair of vintage Billecart-Salmon vintage Champagnes brought by John, the  Elisabeth Salmon Cuvée 2008 and Les Clos Saint-Hilaire 2006. Ernie added a Veuve Clicquot Gold label.

Billecart-Salmon Champagnes

The Champagne House of Billecart-Salmon dates back to 1818 when Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon were married, a family story from the beginning with Louis Salmon, brother of Elisabeth, a talented oenologist, overseeing the creation of the wines. Continuing the family tradition for seven generations, they remain faithful to the motto: "Give priority to quality, strive for excellence".

The champagnes of Maison Billecart-Salmon are created from the estate of 240 acres, and sourcing grapes from an area totaling 750 acres across 40 crus of the Champagne region.

The majority of the grapes used for vinification come from a radius of 20km around the village of Epernay along the Marne River at the bottom of the Champagne region. There the Grand Crus of Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay flourish in the vineyards of the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs.

We toured the region and vineyards during our Champagne Wine Experience back in 2006. 

Billecart-Salmon "Cuvée Elisabeth" Brut Rosé Champagne 2008

The 2008 Billecart-Salmon “Cuvée Elisabeth” is named for the founder matriarch. This Rosé Champagne is made mostly from Grand Cru vineyards, but it is the 1'er Cru that goes into it that makes it so special. 

The blend includes about 10 percent red wine that gives this rosé its color that comes from a small plot of 80-year-old Pinot Noir in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ called the Valofroy. This parcel, adjacent to the Clos des Goisses faces due south and directly down at the Marne. 

The production from this ancient site is the limiting factor for the production of this rare tête de cuvée. 

The wine is composed of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay to which is added the old vine Pinot red wine that makes up about 10% of the total that gives this wine its color.

The 2008 Billecart-Salmon "Cuvée Elisabeth" Brut Rosé was awarded 98 points by James Suckling and Decanter, 97 points by Wine Advocate and Vinous, 96 points by Wine Enthusiast, and 94 points by both Jeb Dunnuck and Wine Spectator. 

Wine Advocate says "the 2008 Brut Rosé Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon is one of the finest wines I've tasted from Billecart in recent years."

Dark orange copper colored, full-bodied, silky texture and complex, super dry intense layered flavours of cherry, strawberry and nectarine with notes of clove and cinnamon spice on the long, elegant harmonious finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3901361

Billecart-Salmon Champagne Les Clos Saint-Hilaire 2006

This is a unique classic single varietal Blanc de Noirs cuvée that bears the name of the Patron Saint of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. This source Clos (vineyard) is a mere two acres that meets strict standards: a single, unbroken and enclosed plot planted like a garden in the middle of the Billecart property in Mareuil. The vines are all old massals that were planted in 1964. 

Only one press load of this 100% Pinot Noir was made for a total production of 3,700 bottles, the wine is completely barrel fermented, and dosed at just 2 grams per liter. This is a profound wine that ages 13 years on the lees  rendering immense concentration and power.  

Although it was disgorged in November 2020, winemaster Mathieu Roland Billecart held on and delayed the release, ageing post disgorgement that he cites "is just as important as that before it and sometimes overlooked".

The 2006 Billecart-Salmon "Le Clos Saint-Hilaire" Brut Blanc de Noirs Champagne was awarded 98 points by Vinous, 95 points by Wine Advocate, and 93 points by Decanter.

Vinous writes, "The 2006 Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is fabulous. In this radiant year, the Clos Saint-Hilaire has a touch more mid-palate sweetness and generosity, but that’s a good thing, as it balances some of the more austere leanings that can make young vintages hard to appreciate upon release. Apricot, lemon confit, ginger, graphite, spice and crushed rocks are strands in a gorgeous, captivating tapestry that dazzles right out of the gate. The precision here is just mind-blowing. Billecart's 2006 Clos Saint-Hilaire is a very special Champagne."

Golden rust colored, full-bodied, powerful, layered and vinous,  complex, concentrated, muscular with aromas of pear and plum, dried red cherry fruits, hints of brioche and nuts and spices with racy acids on a long, finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4209557

https://www.champagne-billecart.fr/en

Dan brought a pair of dessert wines for the cheese and salad course, a Sauterne Premiere Grand Cru Classe, and a label Yellow Muscat he acquired and brought from Slovenia.

Château Rabaud-Promis Premiere Gran Cru Classe 2009 Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend

The Rabaud-Promis castle lies opposite Chateau d'Yquem on the hill Rabaud and dates back to the late eighteenth century. The estate vineyards dating back to the birth of Sauterne surround the house on the gentle slopes. 

Premier cru classified in 1855, Chateau Rabaud-Promis was bought in 1950 by Louis Raymond Lanneluc. Today, the property is family managed by Michele and Philippe Dejean and his son Thomas, representing the 9th generation of winemakers in Sauternes.

Winemaker Notes - Full and intense, this vintage envelops you in its aromas of honeyed yellow fruit, apricot jam, quince paste, exotic fruit with a hint of lemon balm.

This was rated 96 points by Wine Enthusiast, 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 93points by Wine Spectator.

Dark golden colored full bodied, rich, thick and unctuous with intense bouquet and flavors of pear, zesty orange and peach and with spicy honey and roasted nut on a persistent long acidic finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=894124

Rodica Truške, Istria, Slovenia Rumeni (Yellow) Muscat 2016 

Dr Dan acquired this wine traveling to the region and brought back to share with our wine group.

From the Producer - "The Rodica Family Organic Winery is located in the heart of Slovenian Istria, in the village of Truške near Marezige above Koper. The wine cellar lies on top of a hill overlooking the sea of the Gulf of Trieste and the unspoiled nature of the Dragonja River. The vineyards are spread on the southern slopes of the Istrian hills at an altitude of 250 to 350 m. We cultivate 60,000 vines on 15 hectares, planted mainly with indigenous varieties of Refosco, Malvasia, and Yellow Muscat, as well as others, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Pinot Gris'. 

"The lands on which we have planted our vines were abandoned and overgrown for the past 50 years. Planted in poor, shallow soil, the vines grow modestly. By showing great respect for nature, thus, we grow great-tasting, healthful grapes from which we produce healthful and strong wines that reflect the character of our wine-growing district."

From US Distributor Vinum - "In 1998, Marinko Rodica, a car mechanic by trade, decided to start a new chapter in his life and became a winemaker. 10 years later, in 2008 Rodica family winery had sixty thousand vines and was certified organic. The brand new environmentally friendly and energy efficient wine cellar was completed in 2012. None of this would be possible without Marinko’s vision and passion and the support of his entire family. Today, Rodica estate organically farms 15 hectars of vineyards, with most of them planted with Malvasia and Refošk.:

Classification: Sweet white wine 

Varietals: 100% Rumeni Muskat (yellow muscat) 

Appellation: Truške, Istria, Slovenia 

Annual Production: 5,000 bottles 

Climate: Mild Mediterranean, with dry and hot summers, and mild winters. 

Terrain: The picturesque hills near Marezige and Truške are located 5 km from the Adriatic sea, more specifically the Gulf of Trieste. Rodica family vineyards are planted at 250-350 meters asl, terraced, facing South. They enjoy significant day-night temperature swings, constant breezes, which keeps the vineyards well-ventilated and naturally healthy for organic farming. The soil is rich with minerals, consisting predominantly of limestone. The vines are forced to “fight” to get water, which results in better quality grapes. 

Vinification: After de-stemming the grapes are macerated with the pulp and skins for just a few hours and spontaneous fermentation begins. The wine is then transferred into stainless steel tanks where it continues controlled fermentation process. Matured for 6 months in 2,500-liter acacia barrels and bottled unfiltered.

Tasting Notes: From Merchant MrDWine - "Our favorite Slovenian sweet wine, period! This wine combines the typical floral, honeyed lemon peel aromatics of yellow muscat with gorgeous acidity and earthiness. It offers so much more than a regular sweet wine. Beautiful pine notes on the nose, light freshness and mineral texture on the palate. Enjoy chilled with not-so-sweet desserts, or just by itself."

Note - This label was not listed among the nearly 5 million labels in Cellartracker. I added it to the collection. Its hard and rare to find a label not already listed in their massive database.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4668723

https://www.rodica.si/en

For the transition from sweet wines and Champagne to the whites, Ernie brought this 2017 d'Yquem "Y" Bordeaux Blanc. 

 d'Yquem "Y" Bordeaux Blanc 2017  

This is an exotic dry white wine that could be considered the 'second wine' of famed ultra-premium producer Château d'Yquem.

This is a blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon. 80% of the blend was aged in used Yquem barrels with 20% new oak.

This release was rated 98 points by James Suckling, 95 by points Wine Spectator, 94 by points Decanter, 92 points by Vinous, and 17.5 of 20 by Jancis Robinson, the same she gave to the grand vin.

Light silver straw colored, full bodied, crisp, seductive, exotic dry white with dense rich notes of tropical fruits - peach, mango, pineapple, yellow apple and lemon peel, with fine acidity on the smooth balanced finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3095929

 

With the salads and soup course we enjoyed this trio of  Michel Colin-Deleger  Chassagne-Montrachet Burgundies brought by Tom and Lisa.

Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly 2015

From the original domaine located in Chassagne-Montrachet, founded in 1950, Domaine Michel Colin-Deléger was created in 1987 by Michel Colin-Deléger, the nephew of the great Georges Deléger. 

Michel Colin inherited part of the Chevenottes vineyard, combining it with holdings from the Colin family’s domaine. The 2015 vintage was Michel's last, as he finally retired after a stellar career in which he vinified some of the most esteemed climats of the Côte de Beaune.

Michel semi-retired in 2003, passing on his vineyard holdings to sons Philippe and Bruno Colin. Until his full retirement twelve years later in 2015, he continued to farm three small parcels, producing just a handful of barrels per year: Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Demoiselles, and Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. 

Though the quantities were small, the mature master vigneron produced Chardonnay’s that represented the domaine's greatest terroirs. All three vineyards are within a stone’s throw of one another, with En Remilly just around the corner on the south side of Chevalier-Montrachet and Puligny Les Demoiselles on the northern edge of Le Montrachet. 

Michel Colin-Deléger continues to works with his sons, Philippe and Bruno to produce a notable portfolio of premium white wines.

Colin-Deleger owns nearly 50 acres of vineyards in the vicinity of Chassagne-Montrachet. These include the well-known Le Demoiselle, Puligny Premiers Crus La Tryufer, battery-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet, from a crop from which the farm produce great wines with a fruity aroma and complex, full-bodied taste.

Currently Michel Colin is almost retired, handing the business over to the sons, but continues to control a limited edition wines of the most valuable vineyards - Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet Premiers Crus An Remiyi and Puligny-Montrachet Premiers Crus Les Demoiselle .  

Distributor notes -  Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru En Remilly has a brilliant yellow-gold visual aspect. Its nose is expressive, exhaling floral aromas with light buttery notes. There is beautiful substance on the palate, with a light richness and fairly marked acidity.

Pale straw coloredm medium bodied, concentrated, almost rich flavors of delicate peach, pear and a touch of lemon, white stone fruits with hint of sweetness.

RM 91

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2585993

The interim pivot to the 'big reds' was filled by Steve's classic Vosne-Romanée Burgundy.

Domaine François Gerbet Vosne-Romanée 2014

Of course, the commune in the Côte-d'Or department in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté produces the region's, perhaps the world's most celebrated wines, all made entirely from the Pinot Noir grape.

While the appellation is known for the dynastic monopoly of four of the six grandest of grand crus, the village has at least forty growers that also comprise and share its vineyards. The wines produced from the vineyards are diverse but generally considered to be rich, silky and well balanced, with a complexity which surpasses many of the other wines of Burgundy. 

Wines from the famous village include several renowned premier cru level producers, aside the villages sensational and legendary six grand crus: Romanée-Conti, La Romanée, La Tâche, Richebourg, Romanée-Saint-Vivant and La Grande Rue. 

While the Premiers Crus do not command the same prices as their grand cru neighbours, the village is home to many outstanding premier cru wines. Besides the legendary plots, the top vineyards include Les Gaudichots, Les Malconsorts, Les Suchots, Cros Parantoux, Les Chaumes, and Clos des Réas.  

A stand-alone Pinot Noir, this was one of the standouts of the evening with bright vibrant, elegant and harmonious fruits, although Steven had to pinch himself as he couldn't believe I was saying so!

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, aromas and flavors fresh bright vibrant strawberry, cherry and slighter subdued fruits of blackberry, accented by notes of spice and hints of tobacco and leather finishing with elegant smooth polished fine tannins.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2750048

We then moved to the entree course of beef tenderloin and the Bordeaux varietal reds. 

We invariably spend time at the beginning of each evening, setting up the tasting, sampling the wines so as to serve them properly in order, from lighter to heavier or bolder. The placement occurs and then is fine tuned throughout the evening as the wines open up and reveal their character and profiles. 

It was through this tuning that the St Estephe revealed itself and moved up front of the other Bordeaux, showing itself to be especially approachable and elegantly polished. 

Château Cos d' Estournel St. Estephe Bordeaux 2009

I started to write that this stand-out wine emerged as one of the stars of the evening, but then when I researched its rating and ranking, I realized that it was wholly noted and recognized to be deserving of such. Leave it to John to produce a (not-so) hidden gem of the evening. 

The ever modest John noted that this vintage release showed as well as the legendary 2005 vintage, and he was right on.  

Ernie and I reminisced about the impressive majestic and commanding Château with its gates overlooking the bages (right) as one turns the corner on the road climbing the hill into Saint Estephe from Pauillac. 

We were both visiting the region during the time that Château Lynch Bages was under construction, and we were directed to visit the Château de Pez estate immediately opposite Cos d'Estournel. In fact, Ernie ended staying there at the Château during his visit. 

The 2009 Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe was ranked 100 points by Jeb Dunnuck and Wine Advocate. It also received 98 points by James Suckling, and 97 points by Wine Spectator. 

This is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc.

Dark deep inky garnet colored, full-bodied, while massive on the palate, it's elegance and flawless polish and balanced presented a remarkably approachable pleasurable drinking wine, plum, red currant and blackberry fruits with classic Saint-Estèphe notes of dried tobacco, creosote, earthy spices, and licorice with subtle graphite on silky smooth plush tannins and fantastic freshness, finishing very long and very spicy.

Clearly this was the best, and most memorable Cos I have ever tasted from the dozen or so vintages that I have had. I'll relish my collection with more reverence, and attention, going forward.

RM 96 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=874488

https://www.estournel.com/en/

Ernie telegraphed he was bringing an 'older' Lynch Bages (1993), so I pulled from the cellar an aged vintage from the spectacular 1990 vintage to compare. Lyle rounded out the mini-vertical with a recent release. 

Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac Bodeaux, 1990, 1993, and 2018

As mentioned, Ernie and I jousted with our reminiscences of visiting the Château and estate vineyards on the outskirts of the commune of Pauillac during about the same time.

We've both served Lynch Bages at the UGCB event and hold a vertical collection of the label spanning (more than) three decades. Indeed, I am hold a large double magnum of the label from the early nineties of
which we need to find a suitable occasion at which to serve.

1990 Lynch-Bages Pauillac 

I violated one of my normal tenants and brought from our collection a birth-year vintage wine from son Alec's birthyear collection, holding for a family event.

I found this wine probably at its apex, the height of its drinking window, and likely to start to diminish from age from this point forward.  It was ideal to pair and compare with the other vintage (s). As one of the oldest vintages, I triple decanted this, allowing it to open, and it showed remarkably well from the outset.

From a spectacular vintage, this is another spectacular showing wine, this was awarded a near perfect 99 points by Wine Advocate. It also was awarded 96 points by Vinous, 94 points by Wine Spectator, and 93 points by Int'l Wine Cellar. I should also note that Jancis Robinson gave it 18.5 points on her 20 point scale. I should then note that I personally find her twenty point scale more logical, rationale and easier to manage, but the pack has taken commanded and the industry has subscribed to the 100 point model.  

Robert Parker wrote, "This magnificent Lynch Bages has been drinking well since the day it was released and it continues to go from strength to strength. The biggest, richest, fullest-bodied Lynch Bages until the 2000, the fully mature 1990 exhibits an unbelievably explosive nose of black currants, cedarwood, herbs and spice. The majestic, classically Bordeaux aromatics are followed by a full-bodied, voluptuously textured, rich, intense wine with superb purity as well as thrilling levels of fruit, glycerin and sweetness."

On the same vintage Vinous writes, "The 1990 Lynch-Bages remains the towering Pauillac it has always been, even if Jean-Michel Cazes personally prefers the 1989. It has a riveting, graphite-infused bouquet that is brilliantly defined, very focused and sharp as a razor-blade. Poured directly against the 1990 Lafite-Rothschild, this Fifth Growth beats it hands down. ...  this is an aristocratic Lynch-Bages with impressive grip after 28 years (in 2019)."

Note the price I paid on release of this wine back in early nineties. 

Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied, blackberry and black currant fruits with notes of tar, herbs, spice, black tea, leather and hints of cedar, turning to silky tannins on a long, long finish. Probably a bit past its prime but still showing well.

RM 92 points. 

Its a bit remarkable that this label has a 'three digit' number out of the millions of labels now registered with Cellartracker in their vast database.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=451

1993 Lynch-Bages, Pauillac

This release was awarded 91 points by Wine Advocate and  90 points by Int'l Wine Cellar.

Classic Pauillac Lynch Bages profile, dark inky garnet colored, medium full bodied, blackberry and black plum briary fruits with earthy leather and smoky, cigar box, spice, cedar, anise and black tea notes on a moderate tannin laced finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=31772

https://twitter.com/lynch_bages 

@lynch_bages

Dan brought a Chateau Pichon (Longueville Comtesse) Lalande, so Lyle pulled from his cellar a vintage release to compare.

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2010 & 2014

Two more spectacular wines. These were both markedly tight and somewhat closed, perhaps, and likely in that awkward interim period of aging, needing a couple more years to open and reveal their native character and profile. Great to try and interesting tasting of one of my favorite labels and a typically classic long lived Bordeaux wine.  

This is one of my absolute favorite labels. Touring the grounds of the Château estate and vineyards was one of the highlights of our trip to the appellation in 2019. (below) 

Château Pichon Lalande 2010 

Another blockbuster wine with giant ratings, the 2010 Pichon-Lalande was also awarded 100 points by Decanter, 98 points by Vinous, 96 points and "Cellar Selection" (one for long term aging) by Wine Enthusiast, and 95 points by Wine Spectator. This is why we do tastings and make note of how they are aging at various stages of their life! 

One Cellartracker wrote in spring of 2013, "Too young to drink now, need years of further cellaring to show its deep potential." He gave it 96 points!

Decanter wrote, "For me this is getting better as it ages, starting to rival the 1982 at Comtesse, and I can't wait to keep tasting it over the decades to come. Last time I rated this wine, in 2016, I gave it 98 points, and I questioned whether to keep it there, which is already an exceptional score, but I want to mark just how clearly it stood out in this horizontal. (1/2020)

Vinous called it "An eternal wine, a total showstopper. The first impression is one of explosive power, but time in the glass brings out the wine’s more delicate, floral side. Violet, graphite, crème de cassis, licorice and menthol overtones recall the 1996.

Wine Enthusiast writes that "a stronger presence of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend than in the past, making it more structured than its predecessors, with a dominance of black currant flavor"

Classic Pichon Lalande tasting profile, dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, firm, tight and a bit closed surpressing that complex concentrated yet elegant and polished black fruit with notes of black tea, cassis, graphite and tobacco leaf with hints of truffle and anise on a firm lingering structured tannin finish. 

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1128959

Chateau Pichon Lalande 2014

Ditto the comments on the 2010 above, very similar state, the   2014 Pichon-Lalande got monster ratings, awarded 97 points by Vinous, 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 94 points and Cellar Selection by Wine Enthusiast, 94 points, Wine Spectator, and 93 points by James Suckling and Wine Advocate.  

Vinous says "the 2014 Pichon Comtesse might very well be the wine of the vintage on the Left Bank."

Dunnuck wrote: "deeply colored (especially in the vintage) and delivers a heavenly bouquet of crème de cassis, ripe plums, graphite, cedar pencil, roasted coffee, and tons of building minerality and liquid rock-like nuances. Incredibly pure, textured, full-bodied, and with a seamless integration of its fruit, tannin, and acidity, it’s already approachable but will keep for two to three decades."

Wine Enthusiast wrote, "It looks likely the wine will develop slowly, so don't drink before 2025."

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, classic Pauillac black fruits with Crème de cassis, licorice, lavender, licorice and sweet spices with notes of cedar and graphite turning to velvety-textured tannins on a long and flavorful finish.

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2075299

https://twitter.com/PichonComtesse/ 

@PichonComtesse

Bill projected he was going to bring a Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon, one of our favorites. Having just opened this label for my birthday dinner, the 2002, I was anxious to try another vintage, so I pulled from our cellar an aged vintage release to share and compare.

Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 & 2013

Bill and I have enjoyed a dozen vintages of this label over the years and still hold as many in our cellars. We've visited the Robert Craig estate up on Howell Mountain on numerous occasions including the Robert Craig Howell Mountain Harvest Party 2009  (with Robert, right).

I couldn't resist but to bring this aged vintage inaugural release of this legendary Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. It was the 1994 release that Wine Spectator recognized in an article back then citing the vintage and noting Robert Craig as an up and coming producer to watch!. We were hooked and started collecting his wines and notably hold every vintage since of at least one of his labels. And, its time to drink them, so, tonight was an ideal occasion to open this classic label with folks that would appreciate it.

1994 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon  

Like the aged vintage Lynch Bages above, I also triple decanted this bottle as well. 

While showing its age and some diminution of the fruit and slight brickish coloring,  it was still in its drinking window and a notable pairing and comparison with the same label, and similarly aged vintage releases of the evening. This is what these broad tastings are all about, sharing and comparing such labels and releases!

This release got 90 points from both Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator, both reviewed upon release back in 1997.  

Dark blackish purple garnet colored, medium full bodied, complex and concentrated Howell Mountain profile of black currant fruits with hints of classic clove and cinnamon spices, notes of anise, leather and lead pencil and a bit of cedar on a lingering tannin finish. 

RM 90 points.  

 2013 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 

Winemaker notes ; "2013 was the perfect example of the stark differences between mountain and valley vineyards in Napa. While valley floor yields were up 15-20% overall, Howell Mountain was down 5%*. Why such a difference? The valley saw mild weather during flower and fruit set, while the mountain had cool, very windy conditions. The result was small, loose clusters with tremendous structure, concentration and acid backbone."

Winemaker notes - While 2012 was a classic vintage for Howell Cabernet, 2013 raised the bar. Fruit complexity is off the charts, with stunning acid and tannin backbone. This wine, having spent two years in barrel and an additional year in bottle is showing lovely, lush fruit in its youth, with classic Howell bramble-berry fruit character framed by coffee, mineral and deep, dark, mountain violet tones. Patience, however, will prove to be a virtue: this wine will only get better with age. Cellar now for future rewards. 

"The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mt has an inky purple color that is certainly as saturated as any in the impressive Robert Craig lineup. This is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot with similar elevage as the other wines. Beautifully sweet tannin, whole berry, blackberry and graphite notes are present in this full-bodied, opulent, delicious Howell Mt Cabernet Sauvingon. The color is an opaque purple, the wine expansive, savory and impressive. Drink it over the next 20 years."
Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, 12/30/15

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=49569

https://robertcraigwine.com/

https://twitter.com/RobertCraigWine 

@RobertCraigWine

 

Diamond Creek Napa Valley Red Rock Terrace Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 

Bill brought another spectacular label from a legendary producer. We Pour Boys have visited the Diamond Creek estate on Diamond Mountain on numerous occasions including when our group, Dan, Bill and we attended the vintage release tour there in 2015 (shown left and below). These are chronicled in these blog postings: 

Diamond Mountain Wine Experience - Diamond Creek Vineyards

 Diamond Creek Open House 2015 Release Tasting

As above, we just recently opened a family birth year vintage of this same label from this same producer for a family birthday celebration recently, so I was eager to try this release as a comparison. 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/04/family-easter-and-birthday-celebration.html

Al and Boots Brounstein founded Diamond Creek Vineyards in 1968. Al Brounstein was one of the first to produce Bordeaux varietals in the Napa Valley Mountains back in the 1970's. He was so captivated by the terroir of his Diamond Mountain property, from the beginning he bottled each vineyard separately as its own designated label. He was one of the first to do so, to recognize and memorialize each vineyard thusly.

The three vineyards Brounstein planted have produced some of the most long-lived, elegant wines from the state of California, wines that make the case "that Diamond Creek is the finest producer of Cabernet Sauvignon in America," according to wine writer Pierre DuMont. 

This is from a seven-acre section of the vineyard estate, Red Rock Terrace is a warm micro-climate on the lower reaches of the mountain, below the fog line and protected from the winds that sweep up from the San Pablo Bay, or in from the Pacific. It is seven acres of iron-rich, north-facing vineyard on Diamond Mountain. 

This vintage label release was awarded 94 points by Wine Spectator, 93 points by Wine Enthusiast. and 92 points by Vinous.

Winemaker Notes: Our winemaker describes Red Rock Terrace as "having velvety tannins, rich and well balanced, medium dark ruby color with cherry, mint and black currant flavors."

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, pure, bright expressive black and red currant fruits with notes of earth, black licorice, anise and hints of cedar turning to silky smooth polished tannins on the moderate finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1622908

Pivoting between the Bordeaux varietals and the desserts, Bill was generous to bring a bottle of this select, full bore Aussie Shiraz wine from his cellar.

Chateau Tanunda 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz 2008

We, the Pour Boys, discovered this wine at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour in Chicago when it was being poured by Chateau Tanunda's colorful principle, Dagmar O'Neill. 

Only 100 cases were produced. We manipulated/orchestrated a purchase of eight three packs in OWC's (original wood cases), which was the entire allocation shipped to mid-America, which we split amongst the wine team, pictured in this blogspot feature.

Taking stock around the table, this was Bill's last bottle of that acquisition, Dan's is gone, and Ernie and I still hold one bottle each in our cellars.

Bill's notes from a tasting back in 2014 - "Still the best Shiraz I have tasted and there is a great deal of separation from number 2. Layered and complex with spice, granite, minerals on the palate with a touch of softness not usually expected in a Shiraz. Drinking beautifully now but will last for years."

And then again in 2018, "Almost 4 years exactly since I last tried this and still spectacular with plenty of life still left. Deep, opaque, indigo color. Berry and a bit of smoke on the nose. If anything, some of the roughness of the spice has diminished ( but not by much), to be augmented by sweet, blackberry and raspberry fruit. Spectacular!"

WCC 96 points. 

Tonight, while this was a bit more subdued at fifteen years of age, its still a huge thick chewy Shiraz. I can only think of a few that have been this dense and each of them are memorable tastings. It begs for a thick juicy steak or tangy barbecue. 

Full bodied, complex, concentrated, full lingering tannins predominate the dense, black and blue berry fruits with hints of liquorice, plum and spice and spicy oak.

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=937673

http://www.chateautanunda.com/

https://twitter.com/ChateauTanunda

@ChateauTanunda

Terry and Lyle served up their traditional medley of desserts including Terry's decadent Orange Cake, and Chocolate Profiteroles with fresh berries and whipped cream. 

Ernie pulled out his signature ultra-premium Château d'Yquem Sauterne from his extensive broad vertical collection of the label that spans several decades.

To accompany the wine he brought a selection of carefully selection artisan cheeses, drizzles and roasted nuts, to showcase the wine. These were superb in a terrific pairing. 

Château d'Yquem Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend Sauterne 2007

A special treat, as usual, this wine was exquisite, a spectacular pairing iwth the dessert and specially selected cheeses. This is 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, carefully selected from the most ardent and rigorous viticulture and harvesting. 

When picking, they may pass through the vineyards more than two dozen times, in the middle of the night, when cool, to carefully hand select grape by grape, only those at perfect ripeness and brix (sweetness) levels to add to the blend.

This release was awarded 98 points by Wine Advocate. 96 points by Wine Spectator, and 17.5 of 20 by Jancis Robinson.

Distributor notes: "Exquisite. Presents a lovely amber colour, reminiscent of a golden sunset. The nose is an intoxicating blend of honey and apricots, a bouquet that is mirrored in its taste. Additional layers of complexity are revealed through notes of caramel, vanilla, and a hint of spice, adding depth to the honeyed apricot core. The wine is beautifully balanced, with a vibrant acidity that cuts through the sweetness, leading to a long, luscious finish. It's a wine that truly engages all the senses, leaving a lasting impression. Drinking very well already."

Deep orange golden colored, medium to full bodied, complex, rich unctuous and elegantly smooth with notes of dried pineapple, candied honey mango and apricot, hints of grapefruit and lemon on a tongue coating finish. 

RM 96 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=502174

https://twitter.com/Yquem_Official 

@Yquem_Official 

As a closer with the chocolates and cheeses, I had this aged Vintage Port open at home from the other evening and brought it to share.

Guenoc & Langtry Estate Vineyards and Winery, Guenoc Valley Estate Vintage Port 2000

I served a bottle of Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon at our Pour Boys OTBN tasting dinner back in 2014. 

This is from the Lily Langtree Estate, the hollywood silent screen actress from early last century. That's her period photo that adorns the label. 

The Guenoc Estate Winery & Vineyards are in Lake County, over the hill and on the back of Napa Valley Howell Mountain to the north and east.

We visited the estate back in the early nineties and acquired some Cabernets, one of which I served from a large format bottle at a special event a decade later, exceeding my expectations.

Lillie Langtry, was a famous actress and socialite during the 19th century. She was born on the British Island of Jersey in 1853 and was the only daughter of seven children of the Dean of Jersey. Although she never received a formal education, Lillie went on to have a successful acting career. She starred in many plays in England and the United States. 

In 1888, Lillie purchased 4,200 acres of land in California that would become Langtry Farms where she raised horses and founded the Langtry Farms Winery that is still in operation to this day. She set out to craft the world’s finest claret from the grapes grown at the highest elevation of her farm. During that time, she resided at the Langtry House which is still operating today, available for private events.

According to the rear label, this is from the Guenoc Valley Serpentine Meadow Reserve Estate Vineyard. 

They still offer this label on their website dating back to the 1994 vintage. The 1994 Guenoc Valley Port is made from Petite Sirah with a touch of Petit Verdot added to "lend elegance and subtle tones of blueberry and spice." The 1999 Guenoc Valley Serpentine Meadow Petite Sirah Port is crafted from Petite Sirah grapes.

I was intrigued when I saw this bottle on auction back then and acquired it. It has been sitting in our cellar for more than a decade and I opened it last week on a whim. Once again, it exceeded my expectations and was worthy of pairing with our desserts this evening. 

Wine Enthusiast rated this 94 points. 

I posted a tasting note about this label back in 2011, probably shortly after acquiring a couple bottles.  My note from then: "Great paired with cheese cake, fresh strawberry and chocolate fondue dessert. Full bodied - black and deep purple color - taste of brandy, black berry, black raspberry, deep blueberry, dark chocolate, cassis and black cherry, sweetness a nice complement to the dessert - would be great with a stilton cheese."

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=54302

https://langtryfarms.com/wine/