Monday, September 9, 2024

Il Bruciato Super Tuscan, Torbreck Barossa Shiraz with Gia Mia Naperville Pasta, Pizza

Il Bruciato Super Tuscan, Torbreck Barossa Shiraz with Gia Mia Naperville Pasta and Pizza 

As summer wanes, we dined Monday outside with neighbors Richard and Adessa, on the deck/patio at picturesque Gia Mia in Naperville. Their Naperville location is sited in the old historic library amidst the bustle of downtown city centre. 


They have also in recent years opened several other similarly situated downtown locations in the Chicagoland western suburbs of Wheaton, Geneva, St. Charles and Downers Grove.

Their formula for success is ‘chef-driven, farm-to-fork food concepts, … Neapolitan style wood-fired pizzas, creative small plates, fresh pasta, antipasto, and hand-made mozzarella’. This is based on the vision, experience and drive of Chef Brian Goewey, who has been involved in or partially responsible for the opening of over 50 restaurants, ranging from quick-serve style to high-end 5-star restaurants.

We’ve become big fans of Gia Mia, and several of their pasta dishes including their Linguini, Risotto and their meatballs with polenta.  

Tonight we ordered these favorite signature dishes:

“The Bruno” (meatlover’s) Pizza - meatballs, pepperoni, Italian sausage, tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil with spicy Soppresatto Sausage, (I usually have them hold back the spicy sausage which I find overwhelming to the wine accompaniment),
Linguini Carbonara with bacon, garlic, black pepper, Parmesan cream, pecorino and egg yolk,
Arancini Mozzarella, Creamy Risotto with fontina, tomato sauce, garlic and basil,  
Rigatoni, and their Meatballs with Polenta

From their wine list we ordered this Super Tuscan from mega brand producer Antinori. 

This is from the broad Antinori portfolio of estates, Guado al Tasso, located in the small but prestigious Bolgheri DOC, on the coast of upper Maremma, about one hundred kilometers southwest from Florence. 

This relatively young appellation, DOC Bolgheri was established in 1995.

The huge Antinori Guado al Tasso estate covers 2500 acres of which 790 acres are planted with vines, set in the rolling hillsides known as the "Bolgheri Amphitheatre" due to its particular shape. The vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Vermentino. 

The proximity to and effects of the nearby sea provide a mild climate with constant breezes that mitigate summer heat and alleviate harsh winter weather, maintaining a clear sky and a high level of sunlight exposure. The remainder of the estate is covered with wheat fields, sunflowers and olive groves.

Il Bruciato was created in the year 2002 during one of the most difficult vintages at Guado al Tasso in order to present the unique terroir of Bolgheri and give it a greater visibility and recognition. The first blend to be used was that of Guado al Tasso only to see, in the years which followed, a modification of the varietal composition and the identification of a series of vineyard plots intended to be used exclusively for this wine. 

Il Bruciato Guado Al Tasso Antinori 2022

In the fashion of what has become known as ‘Super Tuscans’, wines sourced in the Italian Tuscany region, but crafted from French Bordeaux and Rhône varietals. 

Il Bruciato is the ‘second’ label of the estate, first introduced in 2002 as a lower cost every day drinking label to the flagship premium Guado Al Tasso Super Tuscan blend, a more affordable interpretation of  and introduction to Bolgheri’s unique terroir made from carefully selected Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grapes from Guado al Tasso’s vineyards with their geological composition of the soil is diversified giving the wine structure and complexity. 

Generally, this label provides high QPR - quality price ratio, available for a fraction of the price of the ultra-premium flagship and has gained a broad following to have for every day sipping with pasta, bold cheeses and meat dishes. The bold fruit flavors of the Syrah, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot added to the blend make this a crowd pleaser for wine lovers at all levels. 

The 2022 Il Bruciato is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with Merlot, Syrah and a small percentage of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot: the blend was reintroduced into barriques where it was left to age before bottling. 

Producer’s tasting notes - “Il Bruciato 2022 is intensely ruby red in color. Dominant aromas on the nose include small ripe red fruit accompanied by notes of sweet spices and light hints of mint and tobacco. The palate has excellent structure, is remarkably mouth filling with a pleasant fruity aftertaste that makes it pleasantly easy to drink and closes with a lingering finish.

This release was rated 93 Points by Audrey Frick of JedDunnuck.com, James Suckling (JS93), and Wine Advocate (WA93), and 92 Points by Wine Enthusiast.

Bright ruby colored with opaque purple hues, full bodied, rich, dense concentrated ripe black and blue fruits with notes of blackberry liqueur, black olives, licorice, leather and hints of espresso and herbs with gripping but approachable tannins, supple texture and fresh acidity through the long finish.

RM 91 points. 

Then several days later, with friend Pat R, after a day trip to the Indiana Dunes National Seashore, we had the same dinner entrees, carry out, at home on our deck. 

For a wine accompaniment with the pizza and pastas, we opened another big bold expressive red for the girls while I had the remains of the Bordeaux Blend from the previous evening

Torbreck "Woodcutter's" Barossa Valley South Australia Shiraz 2021

This is another big full throttle, powerful big red wine, that offers high QPR for ideal accompaniment to zesty pasta and pizza. 

The producer’s website speaks of this wine on the content of their Gaelic heritage - “You’d imagine a high country Scottish woodcutter might like a satisfying red at the days end – something rich, warming, full bodied and affordable.’

“Torbreck is the name of a forest near Inverness, Scotland. You’ll find more than a passing nod to the Celts in our wine naming conventions including this tribute to the foresters of this rugged high country.’

“This wine reflects the up and coming Shiraz vineyards of the Barossa, rather than the battle hardened old vines that make up the core of our other cuvées.” This is the producer’s polite way of saying this is a lower  cost affordable alternative crafted from younger vines, versus the mature old vines in the premium labels of the brand. 

Hence, the producer website continues, “But like all Torbreck wines, Woodcutter’s Shiraz receives the very best viticultural and winemaking treatment. Fruit is sourced from hand-harvested and hand-tended, low-yielding vines, then open fermented and gently basket pressed before ageing on fine lees for 12 months in large format seasoned barrels and foudres.”

Although this wine is constantly praised for its succulence and richness, there is also a complexity and texture which is rarely found at this price.

This label is 100% Shiraz sourced from the sub-region vineyards in Marananga, Greenock, Seppeltsfield, Gomersal, Moppa, Lyndoch and Ebenezer in the south central Australia Barossa Valley

Winemaker’s note about this vinetage and release: “The 2021 summer growing season was mild, with even and cool daily temperatures throughout. Enhanced by good rains provided during the winter and spring of 2020, our vineyards grew wonderful canopies and developed well-formed grape bunches. As a result of this long flavour development cycle in the vineyard, 2021’s signature is wines of high aromatic lift with densely coloured tints and exceptional balance. Lifted red, black and blue fruits of red cherry, raspberry coulis, blueberry conserve and wild blackberry and blackcurrant. There is a spicy edge showing cardamom, star anise and Chinese five spice. Soft caressing tannins and voluptuous mouthfeel from plump Shiraz berries gives this wine a posture that belies its pedigree.”

Winemaker’s tasting notes: “This wine is crimson with subtle red plum undertones. Upon the first smell, the nose is a complex bouquet of dark plum and ripe blackberries, interwoven with the rich, dark essence of cassis and cherries. This fruity ensemble is accented with a hint of spice and star anise. On the palate, the wine reveals a medium to full body that masterfully balances intensity and elegance. The soft tannins contribute to a smooth and textural mouthfeel.”

25,000 cases were produced with 400 cases imported.

Wine James Suckling pundit loves this wine and gave it a whopping 96 points. Wine Spectator gave it a more down to earth 91 points. 

After tasting the more complex but subdued Bordeaux Blend, I switched to a glass of this big red and was overwhelmed by its big bold, almost obtuse vibrancy. 

Dark garnet inky purple colored, full bodied, dense concentrated vibrant expressive ripe blackberry and raspberry fruits notes of black tea, anise, bittersweet chocolate, green pepper, herbs sage and rosemary, 

RM 91 points. 

Sunday, September 8, 2024

Vintage Branaire Ducru St Julien Bordeaux with grilled beefsteak

Vintage Branaire Ducru St Julien Bordeaux with grilled beefsteak

A delightful end of summer turning to autumn Sunday night, dinner on the deck, we grilled beef tenderloin beefsteaks with baked potatoes and grilled vegetable medley of tomato’s, onions, red pepper and zucchini. 


For an ideal wine accompaniment, I pulled from the cellar a Bordeaux Blend from St Julien. 

Château Branaire-Ducru St Julien Bordeaux 2004 

Our Visit and tour of the historic Château Branaire-Ducru estate was one of the highlights of our trip to the St Julien Appellation (AOC) in Bordeaux back in 2019, as featured in these pages. 

Patrick Maroteaux bought Branaire Ducru in 1988 from the Tapie family who owned Chateau Branaire Ducru since 1919. Prior to his arrival at Branaire Ducru, he had no prior experience in the wine business coming from a background in banking and as the president of the massive sugar company, Eurosucre. Patrick Maroteaux served as the President of the UGCB, Union of Grand Crus Bordeaux, and as the President of the Saint Julien appellation. 

We met Patrick’s son, François Xavier Maroteaux (below) several times at the UGCB Annual Release Tour Tastings in Chicago. He followed in his father’s footsteps and took over the full-time responsibilities of managing the property after his passing in 2017.




At twenty years of age, this was at its Goldilocks ideal age, not too young, not too old, perfect for pairing with our grilled beefsteaks. The label and capsule, and most importantly, the fill level and cork were in perfect condition from aging in our cellar’ ideal conditions. This is probably at the apex of its drinking profile and will not improve further with aging.

Perfect for pleasant sipping and ideally paired with the grilled beefsteak, this is a classic Left Bank Bordeaux blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc.

This release was awarded 91 points by Wine Enthusiast, 90+ points by NM, 90 by Wine Advocate and VM, and 88 points by Wine Spectator. This was considered a high achiever success from what was generally a modest vintage in the Medoc. 

Sitting literally across the road from Chateau Beychevelle, adjacent to super second growth Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, and near Gruaud Larose, Branaire is generally available for half the price of the premier labels, and a third less than the others, thereby offering good QPR - Quality Price Ratio’s for the Appellation. 

Winemaker Notes - “A very pure, fruity nose, still extremely young, with a lot of finesse. Woody hints perfectly well integrated into the fruit. Classic, dense, complex and pleasant on the palate. Delicate and gorgeous tannins with a long finish. Good balance.”

Dark ruby garnet colored, medium to full bodied, round, nicely balanced and modestly polished, ripe blackberry fruits with notes of black tea, tobacco and leather with hints of licorice, smoke and cedar on a smooth soft tannin laced lingering finish. 

RM 90 points. 

Sunday, September 1, 2024

Family Holiday Gathering brings out flight of varied reds

Family Holiday Gathering brings out flight of varied reds

Son Alec and D-in-law Vivianna hosted an end of summer party for friends and family featuring yard games, food and wines. 

Alec prepared a beef tenderloin which he served on French bread with horse radish sauce, and pulled pork from a fourteen pound pork shoulder. 


Prior to the meats, there was a broad selection of chips and dips, artisan cheeses and charcuterie. 

Linda prepared a cheese board with fresh honeycomb and pears with a selection of artisan cheeses we picked up at the local farmer’s market that morning. 

I took from our home cellar a vintage Syrah from our ‘V’ collection producer Venge Vineyards, a play on the ‘V’ insignia on the label for Vivianna, which was a great complement to the pulled pork and bbq.

Venge Vineyards Stagecoach Vineyard Block 1-4 Syrah 2013

This is one of five vintage releases that I obtained as part of a vertical collection at auction of this single vineyard designated label. 

I wrote about the 2015 release of this label earlier this year in these pages … 

Saturday, January 6, 2024

Venge and Beau Vigne wines with intimate family dinner

This post actually featured two different producers’ Syrahs from two vintages from this vineyard. 

 Venge Napa Valley Stagecoach Vineyard Block 1-3 Syrah 2015

This is from one of our favorite producers, Venge Vineyards. We’ve been collecting Venge wines for three decades and hold a deep and broad collection of their wines. 

We’ve visited Venge several times over the years and are delighted they’re thriving under next generation Kirk Venge who has expanded the portfolio significantly.  

Today, two of our favorite wines in the Chardonnay and Syrah varietal are Venge labels. 

This is a big tongue puckering rich forward style we love and consider it a perfect pairing with BBQ such as tonight. 

This is a distinctive, unique single vineyard designated label from the Stagecoach Vineyard, which the producer proclaims “continues to produce Syrah of unparalleled quality. The Syrahs from that mountain vineyard really shine from the steep, rocky terroir of the location”. 

Stagecoach is one of the Napa Valley’s largest and leading mountain vineyards located near the Atlas Peak AVA at an elevation of around 1,700 feet above sea level. The soil is very rocky and topography very steep. Temperatures are warm in the midday and cold at night. This diurnal effect makes for a balance of vibrant acidity and fruit structure that is concentrated and focuessed. “Block I-4” is referenced in this bottling because of its very high elevation relative to the rest of the Stagecoach Vineyard.

Venge Vineyards Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah Block I-4 2013 was awarded 96 points by The Wine Advocate, 94 points by Wine Enthusiast and 92 points by Wine Spectator. 

Dark inky black garnet/purple colored, full bodied, complex, powerful deep concentrated savory blackberry and black plum fruits accented by notes of anise, black pepper, hints of bacon fat, clove spice creosote, camphor, vanilla and graphite with a long tongue coating finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3223878

Winemaker notes - The body is full with soft, dark, tarry, slightly sticky tannins. Delicious wire to wire. Fresh, juicy and ripe. Blackberries, black plum, an array of purple fruits, black licorice to the core of anise, deep sweet tarriness, light pepper, dark spice, limestone minerals, big vanilla, cinnamon, clove, some nutmeg, cigar, tobacco, leather, crushed rocks, sandstone style minerals, underbrush with lavender & violets. Lovely round acidy. The long, rich, lush, ripe, well balanced finish is persistent and absolutely delicious.

https://www.vengevineyards.com/

Ryan brought from his home cellar a medley of wines, white and red, including this Spring Mountain District Red. 

Fantesca “All Great Things’ Hope Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2014

We featured and wrote about this label and branding in earlier blogposts in these pages back in April, 2023 - Family birthday dinner at Son Ryan's features a flight of big red wines

This was served by son Ryan at grand-daughter MacKenzie's birthday, when Ryan and D-inlaw Michelle hosted a gala family celebration dinner. 

With dinner Ryan served from his cellar several vintage premium wines including this interesting label from Fantesca. “All Great Things”, Freedom 2009.


What great fun it is to share our wine interests together and experience the convergence of our respective cellar collections in producers' labels such as this one.  We've both have amassed a collection of Fantesca Napa Valley Spring Mountain District wines - Ryan most recently, collecting their ultra-premium special labels, while our collection goes back to the inaugural release and the ensuing early years. 

We first met producers Dwayne and Susan Hoff when they acquired the Spring Mountain property in St Helena in February 2004 and Fantesca was founded. Dwayne visited us in Chicago during one of his early promotion tours for the 2004 release of Fantesca Cabernet in 2006. 

The Fantesca Spring Mountain District estate with 10 acres of vineyards were originally a historic 19th century vineyard with ties to Charles Krug, the property's viticulture didn't survive Phylloxera and prohibition and was reclaimed by the surrounding forest for more than 70 years. 

The historic vineyard was reclaimed and replanted in 1997,and the new estate erected.
 We hold a vertical collection of more than a dozen vintages of Fantesca with their classy etched bottles, one of our favorites that we hold for special occasions and for special gifts.

In early 2008, Fantesca signed on veteran winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett, whose Napa Valley resume includes winemaking stints at Screaming Eagle, Dalla Valle, and her own La Sirena.

Fantesca All Great Things …

The "All Great Things" series of labels is Heidi Barret's annual Bordeaux blend produced for Fantesca - a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The grapes for this red wine come from mountainous vineyards on the eastern side of Napa Valley, in contrast to the western side where Fantesca's estate vineyards are planted.

Fantesca Estate and Winery Napa Valley "All Great Things - Freedom" 2009  

That first tasting was the inaugural release of the series, which is inspired by the words of Winston Churchill:  “All great things are simple, and many can be expressed in a single word: freedom, justice, honor, duty, mercy, hope.”  
 
Each vintage release commemorates one of those notable words from the legendary Churchill quote - freedom (2015), justice (2016), honor (2011, 2017), duty (2012, 2018), mercy (2013), and hope (2014) - this one christened the (first) "Honor" release. 

Previously, the previous fall, Ryan served another of the labels, ‘Honor’ from the 2011 vintage. 

Fantesca Estate and Winery Napa Valley "All Great Things - Honor" 2011   

This was the third release of the series, which is inspired by the words of Winston Churchill. 

Hence, tonight’s label that Ryan brought was the ‘Hope’ label from the 2014 vintage release of the series.

Fantesca Estate and Winery Napa Valley "All Great Things - Hope" 2014 


Winemaker’s Tasting Notes - “All Great Things “Hope” is a dark ruby color in the glass. The aromatics are bright with ripe blackberries, black cherry and toasty French oak. The grapes for this red wine come from mountainous vineyards on the eastern side of Napa Valley, in contrast to the western side where Fantesca’s estate vineyards are planted. All Great Things “Hope” is big, bold and ripe. It’s quite delicious with spicy jammy fruit flavors, a touch of vanilla, and compact silky tannins. This wine is nicely balanced and should age well for many years. Enjoy!” - Heidi P. Barrett, Winemaker
Bottled 7-21-16

All Great Things “Hope” is a dark ruby color in the glass. The aromatics are bright with ripe blackberries, black cherry and toasty French oak.

Similar to and consistent with the earlier releases, Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, smooth, elegant and polished with bright black fruits with floral notes of and subtle notes of spice, mocha, tobacco and leather with smooth moderate tannins on the finish.

RM 93 points.
 
 

Alec served a selection of beverage include white and red wines, highlighted perhaps by this popular  ‘crowd pleaser’ premium Napa Cabernet - Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Following our serving of the 50th Anniversary edition of this label at our recent (50th) anniversary celebration dinners, which we featured extensively in this recent blogpost, Gala Family Anniversary Celebration Dinner, Alec opened #49 from the previous 2021 vintage. This was more approachable than the almost obtuse 50th release. 

Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

Our estate visit and tasting at Caymus was one of the highlights of our Napa Wine Experience in 2019.

Indeed, Caymus is a crowd please, a well known iconic benchmark California wine for those who like their reds big, bold, silky and smooth, with decadence and full-bodied flavor. 

Equally notable, Caymus typically provides early gratification, ready to drink upon or soon after release. Yet, it also ages well, certainly for a decade or more. I still recall memorable bottles from 1994 and 1996 that we held and enjoyed from our cellar a dozen plus years later. It’s typically said to be best served at between 5-10 years. 

What is perhaps most notable about Caymus, is that they consistently deliver all this in large quantities with large production, sourced from estate vineyards as well as a large collection of contract grower sources from across the region. As such, Caymus is not estate bottled, or even appellation specific, rather, it is Napa Valley designated, but nothing more (granular). 

Winemakers notes for this release show why I call this a ‘crowd-pleaser’ wine - “ Dense purple/black color. Extravagant and voluptuous aromas of black cherry, mountain blueberry, cassis, and licorice. Richness and density are the name of the game in this Cabernet of exquisite purity and density, which is filled with a hedonistic mix of crushed-black-fruit preserves, sweet crème de cassis, eucalyptus, and sweet spice, all carried on the silken tannins that Napa Cab fans know so well. A monument to Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now–2030.”

“This wine are farmed in a range of Napa’s sub-appellations – from Coombsville to Calistoga – with fruit from the valley floor creating lushness and the hillsides providing backbone. Diversification enables us to make the best possible wine in a given year, featuring layered, lush aromas and flavors, including cocoa, cassis and ripe berries.”

RM 92 points.

And for an ideal comparison pairing/tasting, Alec opened one of his favorites, another popular crowd pleaser wine, what some might call ‘poor man’s Caymus’, given its QPR - quality price ratio, at a more affordable price points. 

Austin Hope Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 

Family-owned since 1978, Hope Family Wines were traditionally a producer of Rhône varietals in the heart of Paso Robles. Austin joined the family business in the 1990s and created his namesake label in 2017, continuing the tradition of big Rhône styles, but he always felt like Cabernet Sauvignon could be the star of Paso.

Winemaker Austin Hope created this namesake Cabernet Sauvignon starting in 2017 sourced from Paso Robles, in the central coast of California where Cabernet Sauvignon has emerged as the region’s number one varietal with over 40% of plantings.

While viticulture in the region dates back to the 18th century, legendary winemaker and consultant Andre Tchelistcheff first recognized Paso’s potential for Cabernet Sauvignon in the early 1960’s. 

This is created in the concentrated, over-the-top style of big reds like Caymus, Papillon, and Prisoner, but can be had for a more affordable price, consistently delivering high QPR - quality price ratio. 

Winemaker notes - “Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon can be mesmerizing, with rich aromas and flavors of blackberry, cassis, black cherry, graphite, toasty oak, vanilla and spice. The structure, balance and unbridled opulence of these wines impress from first sip to last.”

RM 91 points.