Tensley Colson Canyon Syrah 2021

Tensley Colson Canyon Syrah 2021

Watching the Netflix Series “Homeland”, we opened a Big Shiraz to enjoy with a selection of artisan cheeses and crackers. I pulled from the cellar one of our favorite labels for such a food wine pairing and one of the currently best drinking wines our cellar.

We’ve written often in these pages about this producer and this highly acclaimed label, which I replay here. 

Tensley Colson Canyon Syrah 2021

We discovered this producer and label and acquired earlier vintages of this and several other Tensley Santa Barbara County Wines, that I wrote about here, and replay below, during our Santa Barbara County Wine Experience. This was the standout of that tasting and best represents the style that we love.

We discovered Tensley Santa Barbara County Wines during that Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley Wine Experience while driving the Foxen Canyonwine trail. One of the producer's we visited recommended we check out Tensley Wines, which was near that estate we were visiting. 

We drove by the Tensley vineyards on Alisos Canyon Road, (shown left) which was closed, so we stopped in the Tensley tasting room in downtown Los Olivos (below).

I was not aware of this brand prior to this trip. It was a top discovery and revelation and may certainly be one of our go-to boutique labels going forward. We joined their wine club to obtain a supply of their labels from those tasted and going forward.  

As I have written in earlier posts, Tensley was one of the great surprises of our Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley wine experience was the revelation of Syrah being one of the lead varietals in the area. 

We were expecting to see Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which are predominant taking advantage of the cool climate being close to the coastal maritime eftects. The cool coastal breezes run up the valleys of the mountains that run perpendicular to the coast. 

We were delighted to find several producers featuring or even specializing in Syrah, Tensley included. At the Tensley tasting room, we were able to taste a flight of their Rhône varietals centered on their Syrahs.  

Colson Canyon Vineyard | Santa Ynez Mountains 

Since joining their wineclub, we have acquired a half dozen labels from this producer, but this single vineyard designated label remains our favorite. Sourced from Colson Canyon Vineyard, high up in the Santa Ynez Mountains north of Los Olivos, it has been providing exceptional Syrah fruit to Joey Tensley since 2000. It is this fruit that helped Tensley become the one of most sought after Syrah's on the coast with consistent high ratings, one vintage flirting with Robert Parker perfection at 99 points.

Joey Tensley launched Tensley Wines in 1998, producing 100 cases, while serving as the assistant winemaker at Beckmen Vineyards, where he was given space to launch his own label.

Three years later, in 2001, he relocated to Buellton, CA to open his own winery, producing 750 cases of wines that immediately appeared on some of the country's top wine lists. That same year, Matt Kramer added two of Tensley's 2001 Syrah wines to the Wine Spectator's Top Ten Wines in the World list. followed by 90-95 point scores from Robert Parker for Tensley's 2001-2004 vintages. 

Tensley released his first vineyard-designate Syrah from Colson Canyon in 2001 and the wine press took notice. That year Matt Kramer of the Wine Spectator named two of Tensley’s 2001 Syrah’s to his list of the Top Ten Wines in the World. Robert Parker, Jr. scored all the ‘01’s in the high 90’s, calling them “serious, hand-crafted efforts.”

By 2008, Food and Wine Magazine named the Colson Canyon Syrah “Top Syrah in America Over $20.” Two years later, Robert Parker gave the 2008 Anniversary Series Colson Canyon Syrah 99 points, and Wine Spectator Magazine named the 2008 Colson Canyon Syrah "#17 of its Top 100 Wines in the World". The 2007 Colson Canyon Syrah was ranked #22 the year before. Since then, the string of high scores has been consistent. 

Tensley and his wife Jennifer, purchased the Colson Canyon property about five years ago, ensuring that they would always be able to tap the most distinctive site. 

 

Today, Tensley produces 3,300 cases a year. Taking advantage of the numerous micro-climates in the Santa Barbara mountain ranges, Joey also produces a Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in areas closer to the ocean, while growing his Rhone varietals--Syrah, Grenache, and Viognier--further inland.  

 

Winemaker Notes: "Everything we farm in house is something very special to us. This site is one of the most unique and special places in the world of wine. High (1400 elevation) in the hills north of the Santa Maria Valley with some of the most iron-laced soils I have seen in Santa Barbara County."

Perched high up at an elevation of 1,400 feet, from a site located in the hills above Los Olivos, the Colson Canyon Vineyard benefits from the combination of warm days and cool nights that produce dense, fruit-forward wines with opulent jamminess. The site covers 115 acres but has only 16 acres of grapes because the elevation and rugged terrain make so much of the site untamable. Tensley believes that only three more acres have the potential to be planted.

Even though we received this label as part of our wineclub allocation shipment directly from the producer, we enjoy this particular label so much we arranged to pickup several bottles from big box wine merchant super store Total Wine during a recent trip to Indianapolis. This wine is not available in our marketplace as they have no distribution in our state of Illinois. 

Tensley Colson Canyon Vineyard Santa Ynez Mountains Santa Barbara County Syrah 2021

Winemaker notes for this 2021 Colson Canyon label:"Coming from one of the coolest vintage in a decade the wine has a serious freshness. With that said the extremely low yields of 1.7 ton per acre the texture is what the wine is all about. When you put your nose in the glass think of cracked pepper, black currant and raspberry with a touch of vanilla on the finish. The finish will last a long time from the high level of acid and tannin. Drink now, but probably best to wait a few years and for those who like aged wines don’t touch for 15-20 years!"

https://tensleywines.com/product/2021-colson-canyon-syrah/ 

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate writes, "This hedonistic Syrah could use another 5+ years in bottle to unwind and will be long-lived in the cellar. Best After 2024."

Despite guidance to wait at least five years before diving into this full throttle Syrah, we were eager to try it and we weren't disappointed.   

This release was awarded 97 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate who called it "a perfumed powerhouse!", 94-96 by Vinous, and 93-95+ by Jeb Dunnuck. Vinous says, "The 2021 Syrah Colson Canyon Vineyard is one of the highlights among the 2021s I tasted from Joey Tensley." 

Ruby and inky purple colored, full-bodied, dense, powerful, ripe, concentrated black and blue fruits, with accented by notes of menthol, bitter dark chocolate, tar, black pepper and hints of vanilla, floral and lavender, with full tannins and bright vibrant acidity on a long perfumed finish. 

 

This might benefit from a few years further aging to settle a bit. 

 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4404852
 

Earlier reviews of this label: 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/01/family-celebration-dinner-smoked-ribs.html

Earlier, last fall I wrote about the previous vintage of this label: "Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, thick concentrated unctuous juicy black and blue fruits with layers of cassis and chocolate nuances with notes of oak, leather and tobacco on a tongue coating lingering finish." 

RM 94 Points

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2022/10/tensley-colson-canyon-vineyard-syrah.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4090797

https://twitter.com/tensleywine

https://tensleywines.com/ 

@tensleywine

BV Tapestry 2001 With Artisan Cheese

BV Tapestry 2001 With Artisan Cheese

For some casual sipping with some artisan cheeses, I pulled from the cellar this vintage aged Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend from a historic iconic producer. 

Beaulieu Vineyards Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve 2001

This iconic label Tapestry Reserve is from the iconic historic Napa Valley producer Beaulieu Vineyards, that dates back to 1900. French founder Georges de Latour initially bought a small, four-acre property in the town of Rutherford as a surprise for his wife. The land eventually became the foundation for Beaulieu Vineyards. The producer survived Prohibition by having one of a handful of contracts to supply churches with sacramental wine. After Prohibition the winery grew and continued to thrive, experimenting with varietals, blends and aging. Under the direction of the legendary André Tchelistcheff, the winery became one of California's preeminent producers.

Tchelistcheff, trained as a wine master in France, shaped the character of BV’s wines during the 1950s and 1960s. Today the winery is famous the breadth and depth of its portfolio, anchored by its flagship, BV Georges de Latour Private Reserve, but also includes, besides Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel.

The landmark Beaulieu Vineyards estate winery sits prominently on Napa Valley Highway 29 in Rutherford. It has grown to one of the pre-eminent Napa Valley producers, through acquisition of vineyards in other parts of Napa Valley, the winery owns 1,029 acres and produces a total of 750,000 bottles a year.

I’ve written about Beaulieu Vineyards and the Tapestry Reserve label often in these pages, notably in this more detailed feature back in 2023 - BV Tapestry with Beef bourguignon.

We hold nearly two  dozen vintages of this popular label going back to a few remaining bottles of a full case acquired from the highly acclaimed 1997 vintage. Interesting that that vintage was uniquely packaged in a premium heavier, slightly larger bottle than all the others. It consistently offers sophisticated drinking for a high QPR - Quality Price Ratio, often rivaling the much more expensive flagship label. We strive to keep this label in stock, replenishing consumed bottles with current vintage releases for reliable, quality, sophisticated wine to pair with grilled beefsteak, or enjoyable sipping such as this.  

This label dates back to its inaugural release in 1990, Tapestry Reserve is a tribute to the producer’s French heritage and the classic world renowned Bordeaux blends and Clarets. It is sourced from a selection of specific vineyard blocks of top-quality grapes that give Tapestry “the combined attributes of terroir expression and a round, approachable tannin structure”.

About half of the Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the western benchland of the Rutherford American Viticultural Area (AVA), and the balance from the Calistoga, Howell Mountain and St Helena AVAs. 

It also contains in the traditional Bordeaux Blend, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, all sourced exclusively from BV estate vineyards in Calistoga, Knights Valley, Rutherford and Yountville. Also, Cabernet Franc, added to lend complexity, depth and “intrigue”, comes from Howell Mountain.

At twenty-four years, this label, foil, and most importantly the cork and fill level were still pristine. I selected this older vintage as part of cellar inventory management, drinking an older vintage before it wanes from diminution of aging past its prime drinking window. It was a pleasant surprise that this turned out to be a Goldilocks bottle, not too young, not too old, still at the apex of its drinking window/profile. 

We already had opened a couple artisan cheeses from earlier in the week which were a nice pairing with crackers and the wine. Especially good pairing was the Murray’s Jarlsberg. 

Beaulieu Vineyard "Tapestry Reserve" Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2001 

This release was rated 92 points by Wine Enthusiast back in 2004.

Winemaker Joel Aiken said, “A lovely wine, one that is more accessible than Private Reserve, but the tannins suggest ageability.” 

Winemaker Notes - “Dark ruby in color, the Tapestry's aromas evoke scents of black cherry, herbs, vanilla-oak and some black pepper. Medium-full bodied, the wine's fruit flavors are at the forefront; cherry and blackcurrant, followed by nuances of licorice, dark chocolate and peppercorn. Fleshy yet backed by firm, ripe tannins, the finish shows some torrefaction notes from the oak now, but should evolve gracefully with 4-7 years in the bottle.”

Dark garnet colored, medium-full-bodied, complex and nicely integrated, smooth, polished, elegant, black currant fruits are highlighted by notes of mocha chocolate, black tea, coffee and herbs with hints of licorice, with soft silky tannins on the graceful finish for very pleasant drinking. This exceeded my expectations. Wish I had more of this, Would be fabulous with a grilled beefsteak! 

RM 92 points. 

https://go.cellartracker.com/wine/191504

https://www.bvwines.com/

Big Red Wines for Christmas & Birthday Celebration

Big Red Wines for Christmas Lights Tour and Birthday Celebration Gathering 

Alec and Vivianna hosted a gala second birthday celebration for daughter/grand-daughter Millie, that included for the second year, a bus tour of neighborhood Christmas holiday decoration light displays. 

Highlights of the Napeville Christmas Lights tour including the “Believe” house and the Taylor Swift Tribute display. 

The gathering provided an opportunity to share a broad selection of festive food and wines. 

Alec served a flight of whites and reds ….

Alec served a favorite label, Venge Vineyards Scout’s Honor from a large format magnum, paired with another Venge, Stagecoach Vineyard Shiraz, that I brought from our home cellar. 

We have fun with the Venge branded portfolio of wines with their prominent “V” on the label, in regards to daughter-in-law Vivianna! 

Venge Vineyards Napa Valley Scout’s Honor Red Blend 2018

This is a mainstay of our cellar that we keep on hand for such occasions. We have a half dozen vintages of this label in our cellar, drinking and cycling the oldest, replacing it as we go with the latest current release. This is the latest, most current release in which they introduced the new branding of a painted wine bottle as opposed to the more traditional and modest glued paper label. This was our first tasting of this vintage release that just appeared in distribution in Chicagoland in recent weeks and is slated for general distribution this winter. 

This wine is based on a tradition of producing a full bodied, robust, fruit filled red wine based on old-vine Zinfandel and blended with dry-farmed Petite Sirah, old-vine Charbono, and finished with mountain vineyard Syrah. 

The result is an unpretentious, generous mouthful of red wine that we recommend be opened and enjoyed immediately upon release.

This is unique Red Blend is always a crowd pleaser! 

The blend for this release is 63% Zinfandel, 16% Charbono, 12% Petite Sirah, and 9% Syrah; aged in 50% new American Oak and the balance in once-used tight grained French Oak for 14 Months.

Grapes were farmed and harvested from four single vineyards in Napa Valley. The Zinfandel was picked from two, old-vine (60 to 100+ years old), dry-farmed vineyard sources: Venge’s newly acquired “Signal Fire Vineyard” estate, and the Frediani Vineyard—both located in the heart of Calistoga. The Charbono is from old, dry-farmed vines (60 to 100+ years old) also planted in the Frediani Vineyard. Robbie Mondavi’s Oso Vineyard located on Howell Mountain supplies the Petite Sirah; the Syrah from  Napa’s finest, from Stagecoach Vineyard, high in the mountains of the Atlas Peak AVA.

The Winemaker notes sum it up perfectly: "The result is an unpretentious, generous mouthful of red wine that we recommend be opened and enjoyed immediately upon release.' 

"This vintage has a gorgeous, concentrated assemblage of violets, anise, honeysuckle, blue herbs, and a touch of vanillin. The palate is pure richness with loads black fruits and currants, pepper spice, and an enveloping masculinity of char and tannins from the Syrah, Charbono and Petite Sirah. A seamless balance and mouth coating deliciousness lead to a wine that is quite pleasing to the senses. Cellared correctly it will age for 5 to 8 years."

Everyone loved this wine, especially with the tangy BBQ ribs. 

RM 92 points.  

https://www.vengevineyards.com/ 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3525137

I took from our home cellar another Venge “V” wine - a favorite label that we all enjoyed together last month as part of another family celebration that was featured in this blogpost, Venge Stagecoach Vineyard Lot 1-4 Shiraz, which is excerpted here.

Venge Napa Valley Stagecoach Vineyard Lot 1-4 Shiraz 2015

As we did when we visited our newest grand-daughter, Ryleigh, home from the hospital/delivery, and took from our cellar this big bold ‘sipping’ wine to enjoy with artisan cheeses, for the occasion. Shown below, proud grand-mothers and the new grand-baby.

We took one of our Venge Vineyards wines, with their signature “V” branding, that we have fun with daughter-in-law Viviana, now able to drink again after her maternity abstention. 

Venge Vineyards up in Calistoga, Napa Valley, is owned by Kirk Venge, son of legendary Nils Venge, whose family emigrated from Denmark four generations ago. Originally in wine and spirits importing, the family became winemakers in the 1960s, when Nils studied viticulture at the University of California at Davis. By the 1970s Nils was producing wine in the Oakville district of Napa Valley. He started Saddleback Cellars and became one of the valley’s leading winemakers. 

We visited Nils at Saddleback and at other wineries, several times during the nineties. One of our more memorable days, featured in this blogpost, Visit to Venge Vineyards and Nils Venge, we toured Saddleback, then lunched together at Tre Vigne in St Helena, then we drove up to Calistoga to meet Kirk at the new Rossini Ranch location where they were digging wine caves. 

The old Rossini Winery in Bell Canyon, had a historic stone building that dated back to 1891. The Venge’s purchased this property in the mid 1990s and completely restored this old ‘ghost’ winery which had sat vacant from prohibition until their purchase. 

They produced their wines there until they sold the winery in 2008 to the Foley Wine Group, (although they kept the rights to the Venge brand and name). Nils sold that property to vintner William Foley and it is now home to Merus Vineyards. 

After selling the Rossini property, Kirk acquired their Calistoga property including the Bone Ash Vineyards, as well as taking over the Venge Vineyards brand from Nils. They built a new winery that was completed two years later. In the fall of 2020, the winery survived a very close encounter with flames from the Glass Fire burning right onto the property and almost up to the winery itself. 

Venge wines are popular and highly allocated, the most premium labels exclusively to their wine club, appropriately titled “In Venge Veritas” and now is called the Wine Guild; it is limited to 1,000 members and is at capacity, subject to a waiting list. 

We hold numerous Venge labels spanning a dozen vintages, including a few dating back to the early days when Nil’s was still principle. We acquired a mixed case of several vintages, from 2013 through 2017, of this limited release label at auction. 

This vineyard and Lot specific designated label is sourced from the notably Stagecoach Vineyard that sits high in the Vaca range on the east side of Nape Valley, high above Oakville and St Helena, about eight miles up Soda Canyon Road sitting about 1,800 feet above the valley floor. This was considered some of the last frontier of the Napa Valley – a wilder, more rugged country, fragrant with wild herbs and dotted with rare native plants.

The Stagecoach site rugged terrain first made history when gentleman bandit Charles Earl Bowles, known as Black Bart, robbed the daily stagecoach that travelled over the hill from St. Helena to Monticello. The hills were planted to vinis vinifera (wine grape vines) by early German settlers in the late 1800’s. They were abandoned during Prohibition and the remote ground lay fallow until 1995 when Dr. Jan Krupp purchased the 1,100+ acres that stretches from the southern edge of Pritchard Hill overlooking Oakville to the westernmost regions of the Atlas Peak Appellation. 

Today, nearly 600 acres of the vast site are planted to various varieties, most notably stagecoach is Cabernet-focused however Syrah is planted in the highest elevations. Venge has a long-term contract on the I-4 Block, that sits on the highest peak of the vineyard, adjacent Pritchard Hill. It is considered one of the most ideal areas for growing mountain Syrah.

The property was acquired in 2016 by the E. & J. Gallo Winery. Today the 600+ acres of Stagecoach vineyard planted to vines, is the largest contiguous vineyard in the Napa Valley. The 1,300+ acres of rocky, volcanic terroir extends from the south-eastern of Pritchard Hill area overlooking Oakville and Yountville to the westernmost regions of the Atlas Peak appellation.

Over 80 Wineries source grapes from Stagecoach Vineyard, with over 30 wineries featuring the Stagecoach name on their labels, and over 25 produce vineyard designated labels specifying the  Stagecoach Vineyard. 

View Regional Map of Stagecoach VIneyard site, from the vineyard owner.

Venge Napa Valley, Atlas Peak, Stagecoach Vineyard “Block I-4” Syrah 2015

We hold a half dozen vintages of the Venge Single Vineyard designated labels. This particular vintage is from the year that the new parents, Alec and Vivianna first met. 

This single vineyard, select block designated label is 100% Syrah from the iconic vineyard high up in the Vaca range near Atlas Peak. 

Winemakers notes for this label - “Goodness, this is pure, volcanic mountain Syrah at its finest! This wine possesses a bold, deep, dark color that opens the door to an array of black fruit aromatics. Cassis, blackberry, warm toasted bread and French Oak vanillin all fill the glass with purpose. While still young and in development, the palate shows superior promise with minerals, tongue swirling acidity, cherry and black plum. The tannins are firm and support the back palate for several moments beyond the initial taste. If cellared correctly, this wine will continue to improve for over a decade. Limited production runs make this single-vineyard Syrah all the more precious”. 

This was produced according to the “Method, Pellenc Destemmed Via Gravity to Open Top Fermenters, 5-Day Whole Berry Cold Soak, Slow Cellar Temp Fermentation Over 19 Days On Skins, 100% Carbonic Native Primary and Secondary Fermentation, Free Run and Press Fractions Combined to Build Structure and Durability”.

This was aged in 100% French Oak, 60% New Francois Frères, then bottled Unfiltered

Typical annual production for this label is about 400 Cases

Various releases of this label were rated 95 points by The Wine Independent and 94 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 93 from The Wine Enthusiast and 92 from Wine Spectator. Wine Advocate gave the 2011 release 96 points, while the 2010 got 94 points from The Wine Enthusiast.

This was dark inky purple colored, full bodied, rich, dense concentrated, super sweet ripe black berry and plum and blue fruits, with notes of cassis, bacon fat, clove spice, cigar box and tobacco leaf on the full round tannin lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3223878

https://www.stagecoachvineyard.com/map/index.php

https://x.com/vengevineyards   @VengeVineyards

View Regional Map of Stagecoach VIneyard site, from the vineyard owner. 

The George Tavern Naperville Replay

The George Tavern Naperville Replay

We loved the atmosphere and vibe of The George Tavern in Naperville so much, the other day, that we returned for late lunch, casual small bites and wine. 

As featured in an earlier blogpost of our visit, The George American Tavern, Naperville, we sat in the tony, chic, comfortable, cozy Pontiac Lounge. 

We wanted to treat, and share the experience with sister Jan, visiting from SoCal. 

We ordered the BRÛLÉE FRENCH ONION soup, 12-hr onions, gruyére in rich beef broth, and the THAI CURRY MUSSELS, coconut broth, red curry, lemongrass, ginger, cilantro, lime, with charred bread. Both were delicious. The creative Thai Curry Mussels exceeded our expectations and were especially good.  

As I wrote in that blogpost of our recent visit, The George American Tavern, Naperville, excerpted below, The George is named for several historic Napervillians, all named George. As we left the restaurant and walked down the street, we revisited the historic mural painting and marker plaque affixed to the adjacent building, outside neighboring Sullivan’s Steakhouse, at the opposite end of the block. These have new significance now, given the history of the site, and the memorializing of the earlier Georges, proprietors, citizens and patrons that frequented there, namesakes for The George.  

The mural shows Judge George Knoch, and the plaque memorializes George Laird and the Preemption Inn & Tavern that stood on the site, nearly two centuries earlier. 

Like our earlier visit, we tasted the Russian River Valley Chardonnay, this time from bottle, which was an ideal pairing with the soup and mussels. 

Davis Bynum River West, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley, Chardonnay 2022

The Davis Bynum estate and River West Vineyard, is located on Westside Road on a low riverside bench in the far northern end of the valley. 

Initially they combined grapes from Napa with local Russian River Valley fruit, until they sold the Napa property in 1976. Their first Pinot Noir, the 1973 Davis Bynum Pinot Noir was sourced from the Rochioli Vineyard and was the first Pinot to carry a Russian River designation.

Today, Davis Bynum Winery produces about 15,000 cases of wine annually under the Davis Bynum label. While Davis oversees the vineyards and business, winemaking in managed by winemaker/producer Gary Farrell and Bynum winemaker is Greg Morthole. Bynum’s son, Hampton, manages daily operations, sales, and assists with winemaking and production.

Davis Bynum crafts wines that showcase the estate with its Yolo sandy-silt loam soil with a pocket of gravelly Cortina soil in one block, and near coastal moderated climate cool foggy climate.

This is the entry level, basic Chardonnay, part of the broader Bynum portfolio of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir labels. It offers good QPR (quality price ratio) for every day casual sipping and enjoyment, ideal for a WBTG (wine-by-the-glass) selection. 

It was rated 90 points by Wine Spectator

Winemaker’s tasting notes - Aromas of lemon curd, apple pie and graham cracker, along with flavors of baked golden apple, pie crust and a sweet floral undertone. French and Eastern European barrel aging brings a measure of dusty oak tones and notes of butterscotch, tempered by a balanced acidity. 

Light straw colored, light medium bodied, crisp, nicely balanced, zesty green apple, pear, citrus and notes of pineapple with floral, vanilla, stone fruit, toasted almond and mineral notes on a bright lingering finish.

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4865246

https://www.davisbynum.com/

https://www.georgenaperville.com/

Vintage Dunn Napa Cab at Family Reunion Dinner

Vintage Dunn Napa Cab at Family Reunion Dinner 

Sister Jan and nieces Krysta and Jenna visited from Southern California for a holiday visit and mini-family reunion as part of Krysta traveling to the time zone for a wedding. 

Braving the cumulative seventeen inches of recent snowfall and single digit temperatures, we used the occasion to bring the kids/cousins together for a gala mini family reunion dinner.  

Linda prepared hearty comfort food including Sharko’s Beef Brisket, Mac-n-Cheese, Baked Beans and Scalloped Potatoes.

I pulled from the cellar some special, vintage aged wines from producers that we have visited together in Napa Valley over the years. 

We turned to another iconic producer and label of which we also have a long history, including estate visits with Sister Jan and Bro-in-law Bill. These visits prompted them to serve these wines at daughter Krysta’s wedding celebration - featured in these pages in this blogpost -  Diamond Creek, Dunn, Craig Napa Big Reds Highlight Gala Wedding Celebration Dinner.

Dunn Family Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

This Napa Cab is from legendary producer Randy Dunn. We visited theDunn Family Vineyards estate and vineyards during our Napa Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience back in 2008. We were hosted by Kristina Dunn that day but we had the privilege to meet winemaker, producer, patriarch and Napa Valley pioneer Randy Dunn. 

We have been collecting their wines since the early ‘80’s  and hold two dozen vintages of this label spanning three decades. While not one of the larger holdings in our cellar in terms of number of bottles, it may be one of our broadest holdings in terms of number of vintages in our vertical collection of this label, and the flagship premium label Dunn Howell Mtn Cab. We also collect Randy Dunn's "Feather" label that he produces for the Long Shadows Vintners Collection Series in Washington State.

This is the Dunn's standard Napa Valley bottling which is supposedly more 'accessible' earlier on than their legendary Howell Mountain bottling. This is 85% estate Howell Mountain fruit, but blended with 15% Napa fruit for earlier drinking. 

Randy Dunn wines are notable for their long lives and this is certainly testament to that. At 13.8% alcohol, this is an old school style Cabernet. This was showing no signs of diminution from aging whatsoever. 

At twenty-four years, the label, foil and most importantly, the fill level were as to be expected for the age. The cork was intact but came upon upon opening, even when using an ahso - two pronged wine extractor. 

This was drinking very nicely, holding on at two decades, still very much within its prime drinking window, surely able to hold for a few more years.

This vintage release was rated  93 points by International Wine Cellar, 91 points by Connoisseurs Guide and 90 points by Wine Advocate.

Randy Dunn increased his percentage of new oak to 100% with this vintage.

Winemaker Notes -  “The Napa Valley wines are a blend of the Howell Mountain fruit from the estate and a small quantity of valley floor fruit that the winery purchased. This valley floor fruit contributes to the wine’s earlier approachability and softer tannic structure. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 32 months in 100% new French oak.”

Bright, dark ruby colored, full bodied, vibrant rich concentrated but elegant and balanced ripe black currant fruits with notes of cassis, mocha, licorice, tobacco, fresh herbs and graphite with a long lingering finish with full smooth palate-saturating tannins. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=22076

https://www.dunnvineyards.com/

https://x.com/dunnvineyards - @dunnvineyards

Oakville Grill and Cellar, Fulton Market, Chicago

Oakville Grill and Cellar, Fulton Market, Chicago

Sunday evening, we dined in the City, in Chicago’s Fulton Market district at the tony, trendy,  Oakville Grill and Cellar with fellow Pour Boys Lyle and Dan of our Wine Group. 

The upscale eatery, a Lettuce Entertain You restaurant, is stylish, rustic, contemporary California design and decorating, light, bright, airy, with an upbeat energetic vibe. 

The dining room and adjacent bar were festively decorated for the holiday season. 

Oakville Grill prepares California inspired Midwestern cuisine. Their “Quality Statement” says “The menus are inspired by the team’s partnerships with farms, ranches, and wineries throughout California and the Midwest ….  simply prepared dishes made with expertly sourced, seasonal ingredients.”

While unfortunately unavailable tonight, Lyle and Dan would’ve liked the normally offered as sides, ‘warm sourdough by middle brow, house-whipped butter’, and, ‘housemade focaccia bread with calabrian chili, olive truck olive oil’.

For my dinner entree, based on the extraordinary wines available, I ordered the filet of beef - ‘Creekstone filet au poivre, classic peppercorn sauce, mashed yellow finn potatoes and crispy parsley’.

Linda ordered the ‘coal roasted branzino with oven roasted tomato and buckley swiss chard’.

Dan ordered the ‘Harrison's Farm’s duck breast confit with farro risotto and local root vegetables’.

Linda ordered the ‘wood-fired brick chicken gilroy garlic confit, preserved lemon jus’.

The Oakville Grill and Cellar wine program specifically cites a “deliberate focus on high-quality, lesser-known California regions like Santa Barbara County and Santa Ynez Valley AVA’s”, as well as premiere high profile Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Paso Robles, and Santa Barbara regions and their sub-regions. 

Wines are organized by the varietal, then region. 

The Oakville Cellars wine selection features an extraordinary, magnificent 48 page leather bound wine list with an extensive selection of 750 plus premium, ultra-premium and cult California producers’ labels - some with multiple vintages, some with a broad rare and extensive special bottling offerings. 

There are seven pages devoted to the Reserve List of rare, highly allocated and super premium labels. 

There are also several pages of Half bottles, Large Format bottles, and a small selection of WBTG - Wines By the Glass. 

Dan and Lyle have dined there several times and have become accustomed to taking advantage of their BYOB policy. Tonight, we each brought favorite producers and special labels from our cellars for dinner.

In order of tasting … 

Lyle brought a Sangiovese Brunello

Altesino Brunello Di Montalcino 2018

We started with this Sangiovese based Brunello that Lyle brought from his cellar, since, as we expected, it was more delicate, than the bigger, bold Napa Cabs. This was ideal, better suited perhaps than the Big Reds, with the lighter entrees, the chicken, branzino, and even the duck. 

I wrote about this popular producer in detail in a previous blogpost - BYOB Brunello Italian Wine and Dine at Angeli’s Italian Naperville.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2024/11/byob-brunello-italian-wine-and-dine-at.html

This highly acclaimed release was rated 95 points by James Suckling, 93 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate and Jeb Dunnuck, and 92 points by Wine Spectator, Decanter and Vinous.  

Winemaker Notes - “Ruby-red with a garnet rim, this wine's bouquet displays ample aromas of violet, wild berries, tobacco, chocolate, and vanilla. On the palate, Altesino Brunello is rich, full-bodied, and velvety.”

Ruby-garnet colored, medium bodied, smooth, polished, full round dark raspberry and berry fruits with notes of tobacco, chocolate, dusty earth, dried flowers and black tea with fine soft tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4481252

http://www.altesino.it/en/altesino/

Dan brought a Joseph Phelps Backus Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet. 

Joseph Phelps Backus Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Our Joseph Phelps Napa Valley Winery Visit and Tasting, arranged and hosted by Dan, as featured in this blogpost, was a highlight of our Pour Boys 2017 Sonoma/Napa Wine Experience - a private tasting at the spectacular Joseph Phelps Vineyards and Winery hospitality center. 

The magnificent Phelps winery, tasting facility sits overlooking Phelp's vineyards nestled in its own Spring Valley above St Helena on the western facing foothills of the Vaca range that form the eastern face of Napa Valley. 

Joseph Phelps Vineyards was founded in 1973 when Joe Phelps purchased a former cattle ranch near St. Helena in the Napa Valley, the winery now controls and farms nearly 375 acres of vines on eight estate vineyards in St. Helena, the Stags Leap District, Oakville, Rutherford, Oak Knoll District, Carneros and South Napa Valley. 

Phelps is best known for its flagship Napa Valley blend of red Bordeaux varietals, Insignia, first produced in 1974. Awarded Wine Spectator's "Wine of the Year" in 2005. Equally revered is this highly allocated single vineyard designated label from the esteemed estate Backus Vineyard in Oakville. Dan has an extensive collection of this label, procured as part of his Phelp’s Wine Club allocations over the years. 

As I noted in these page when Dan served this wine at his daughter Hillary’s wedding, Gala celebration dinner features Phelps Backus - Insignia Napa Cabernets, you know its a special wine when each bottle label has its own serial number. Such is the premier selection of the Joseph Phelps collection.

This release was rated 96 points by Jeb Dunnuck and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 93-96 points by  Vinous. 

The 2014 Backus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon  is a blend of 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Malbec and was aged in 100% new French oak.

Dark garnet/purple colored, full bodied, opulent, hedonistic, rich and concentrated black berry and black currant fruits with notes of cassis, dark mocha chocolate, earth, clove spice, graphite, truffle and cedar, with ripe tannins on a long finish. 

RM 95 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?2454790

https://www.josephphelps.com/

Then, for a comparison of a bottle we drank the previous evening at another dinner gathering, I brought a vintage Napa Valley Howell Mountain Cabernet.

Lamborn Howell Mountain Generation I Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 

Lamborn Family Vineyards is a small boutique family operation focused on distinctive terroir handcrafted Estate Cabernets and Zinfandel from their vineyards high up Howell Mountain, 10 minutes outside of the small town of Angwin in the northern Napa Valley Howell Mountain appellation. At an elevation of 2200 feet, the property is above the 1200 ft. Napa Valley fog line, the line of demarcation between Napa Valley and Howell Mtn AVA’s. With it’s near summit elevation, it occasionally experiences some winter snowfall - in February 2022 they got nearly 14 inches, blocking roads and toppling trees.

Lamborn Family Vineyards was started in 1971 when Bob and Mike Lamborn, a father and his adult son, purchased 40 acres on Howell Mountain. Eight acres are planted to vines. The 1982 debut vintage was made by winemaker Randy Dunn, a friend and neighbor. The legendary acclaimed winemaker Heidi Barrett started making Lamborn wines in 1996. 

We visited the wonderful and hospitable Mike and Terry Lamborn at their estate high atop Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience 2008 (shown below). 

Mike and Terry Lamborn with wine buddy Andy, sister
Jan, Linda, and brother-in-law Bill

This Lamborn Howell Mountain Cabernet is very similar to the Outpost Howell Mountain 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon label we tasted earlier this weekend, one vintage removed, and sourced from vines literally across the road from each other, that years earlier, prior to 1998, were part of the same vineyard. That wine was featured in this blogpost - Big Reds Celebrate Big Red Win.

At twenty-two years, this is showing no discernable signs of aging, except for the dry but otherwise perfect cork that started to separate on opening. Of course the label is perfect, since it’s painted onto the glass of the large, oversize heavy bottle. 

Robert Parker wrote, “there is no question that there are some surprisingly youthful 2003s that will last much longer than any of us thought at their inception.”

This 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon was aged 22 months in French oak of which 35% was new. It is a big red packaged in a heavy, oversize, premium painted glass in lieu of label bottle. 

Dark garnet colored, full bodied, classic intense Howell Mountain black fruits with complex rich textured  notes of cassis, licorice, spice and earth with a pleasant, smooth tannin lingering finish. 

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?1182340

https://www.theoakville.com/