Showing posts with label robert craig. Show all posts
Showing posts with label robert craig. Show all posts

Sunday, June 16, 2024

Robert Craig Affinity Bordeaux Blend with grilled tenderloin beefsteak

Vintage aged Robert Craig Affinity Bordeaux Blend for Great QPR - ideal pairing with grilled tenderloin beefsteak and chocolate caramel sundae 

Monday night dinner - grilled filets of beef from a section carved full beef tenderloin, with baked potato and grilled asparagus. I pulled from the cellar this aged, twenty year old Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux Blend

It’s been four years and a couple weeks since we last tasted this vintage release of this label. We know this producer and label well and look to this Bordeaux Blend as ideal for pairing with grilled beefsteaks

Excerpts from that last tasting blogpost … 

Robert Craig Napa Valley Affinity Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux Blend 2004.

As I have written numerous times in these pages, we've been collecting this wine since its' inaugural vintage in 1993 and we still hold several cases spread across almost two dozen vintages. 

Crafted to provide a sophisticated Cabernet Sauvignon at a reasonable price with early gratification, Affinity defies this approach with its age worthiness, as this tasting testifies. 

This label was also understated in another way, it is actually a Bordeaux Blend and contains the other Bordeaux varietals. The Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from Craig vineyards and contract sources throughout Napa Valley. Robert used to refer to it as "three mountains and a Valley", referring to their vineyards and sources on Howell Mountain, Mt Veeder, Atlas Peak, Mt George, and the valley floor. According to the rear label, this 2004 Affinity release was 'sourced from the Tulocay estate in southern Napa Valley, blended with Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot from exceptional vineyards in Napa Valley'. As was often the case, the specifics of blend was not specified. 

R & L with Robert Craig 
at Harvest Party
We may hold more Robert Craig wine in our cellar than any other producer. We've been fans of Robert Craig since the early nineties. We've been to many events at the winery as well as several private functions with Robert, his wife Lynn, and former hospitality and wine club ambassador, Rachel, and various members of the Craig team.   

I remember Robert Craig exclaiming his love for this label and how proud he was to hold it to an affordable pricepoint to introduce consumers to Robert Craig wines. I've written recently that in recent years, as Robert and Lynn turned over the reigns to new management, and the recent passing of Robert, this label has crept up in price significantly and is now priced where their premium labels used to be. Never-the-less, it provides good value and quality (QPR) drinking both early and yet also stands up to aging. 

Sadly, Robert passed in 2019 - we posted a Robert Craig Tribute in these pages at that time.


Tonight showed this label at its absolute best, at twenty years, showing sophistication and elegance and complexity - great QPR - quality price ratio. 

Six years ago I wrote, "This ten year old 2004 remains consistent with earlier tasting notes, deep dark purple inky color, the ripe berry fruit aromatics, full body, ripe berry fruit, accented by a undercurrent of caramel are starting to give way to a layer of anise, tobacco, leather and firm full tannins on the long fruit filled finish."  

Previously, last tasted at sixteen years of age, this release may be at the apex of its drinking window and is as good as ever.  In an earlier tasting when I wrote, "Tasted from a 375 ml split. In this smaller format, it may be starting to show its age," I attribute that to perhaps a combination of bottle variation and the smaller format which ages less gracefully.

Tonight, at twenty years of age, the important fill level and cork were pristine, testament to the provenance of our cellar for long term aging. 

This release was a blend of Bordeaux varietals - 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Wine Advocate says this is sourced from the Tulocay estate in southern Napa Valley.

This was delicious, showing exceedingly well, better than expected and than earlier tastings, ideally paired with the grilled beefsteak, still drinking at the apex of its drinking window and showing no signs whatsoever of diminution from aging. It should have a half dozen years yet in its prime drinking. 

Winemaker Notes - “Heady perfume of ripe black cherry and currant, with black tea, spice and violet notes. Bright and abundant dark fruit and black currant liqueur are intertwined with sweet spice box, licorice and violets. Opulent black cherry drives the lively, long-lived finish.’

“A rich, multi-layered Cabernet that balances power with finesse. The 2004 vintage Affinity is a Cabernet-driven Bordeaux blend that showcases the power and richness of Napa Valley hillside fruit backed by an underlying band of round, ripe tannins. Luscious fruit flavors of great depth and purity are hallmarks of Affinity along with integrated tannin structure for long-term aging.’

"When ready to blend, we assess the relative strengths and merits of every wine, tasting through barrel samples. The aroma, flavor and texture profile of each wine lot has been influenced by the distinctive soil and weather characteristics of the source vineyard, the dictates of the growing season, and our winemaking regimen. After lengthy discussion and evaluation, we prepare the trial blends. In orchestrating these blends, we not only focuses on the quality and character of each wine, but also its "affinity" with the other blending components. This process is more intuitive than scientific. The ideal balance of flavors, aromas, textures, and concentration gradually emerges to create the master blend for that vintage."

"Consistent excellence from year to year is our ultimate goal for Affinity. The wine is known for its juicy, fruit-forward aromas and flavors, elegance in balance and structure, a silky texture, and approachable tannins." -- Chad Alexander, Winemaker.

To top things off even further, Linda prepared a fabulous sundae dessert of sautéed nuts in butter, with melted chocolate and caramel over vanilla bean ice cream. It was remarkable and spectacular with the remains of the Affinity. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, firm, structured, yet ideally harmoniously balanced,  nicely integrated black fruits accented by notes of black tea, spice box, hints of creosote, licorice, graphite and oak with firm yet approachable tannins on a lingering finish. 

RM 92 points - better than earlier tastings when I gave it 90 points, increased a point from past tastings.

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/search?q=Robert+Craig+Affinity

https://x.com/unwindwine

Monday, April 1, 2024

Robert Craig Affinity with comfort food

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend with comfort food dinner

A cold damp rainy spring night prompted desire for comfort food for a quiet cozy dinner, so Linda prepared one of my favorites, meatloaf, served with asparagus and scalloped potatoes.  


To accompany dinner I pulled from the cellar a favorite producer Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend from Robert Craig cellars. I’ve written often in these pages about our broad and deep collection of Robert Craig Napa Valley Cabernets, one of the most extensive in our cellar. 

We visited Robert Craig numerous times as posted often in these pages. We tasted and acquired this label during one such Robert Craig tasting events. I featured Robert Craig and this label in detail in an earlier blogpost - https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/03/robert-craig-affinity-napa-valley.html.

Robert was always proud of holding the price point on this label to serve as and entry point and introduction to the brand and the portfolio of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons. I lamented as new leadership took over Robert Craig and increased the price, however it still provides good QPR - Quality Price Ratio at the release price of around $65.  

Robert Craig "Affinity" Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend 2008

Affinity is Robert Craig's Bordeaux-style blend featuring Cabernet grapes from the winery's estate vineyard in Coombsville, in the eastern foothills of Napa Valley. The cooler growing conditions and well-drained soils of this vineyard produce a distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon that is an ideal complement and  counterpoint to grapes from other Craig sources in Rutherford, Oakville and Carneros that are used in the blend. 

This vintage release 2008 Affinity is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot, and the rest Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.

Winemaker Notes - “A delicious nose of mélange of dark black berries, dark-roast espresso and hints of anisette opens up to reveal underlying warm mineral notes, cassis, violets and spice. Signature black and red fruit flows freely across the palate, entwined with more espresso, dark chocolate, and touches of violet and licorice. A warm mineral component echoes the wine's foothills heritage. Firm, supple tannins along the base of the wine keep the luscious fruit aloft through a generous finish, bolstered by crisp acidity.”

A perfect complement to the ground beef meatloaf and at sixteen years is probably at the apex of its aging/drinking profile, not likely to improve further with additional age, but certainly capable to age gracefully for another decade. The label, foil and most importantly fill level and the cork were all in ideal condition.

Consistent with earlier tasting notes (links below) ... 
This was dark plum/ruby colored, medium bodied, full round black berry and plum fruits are accented by notes of bitter dark mocha chocolate and hints of anise, elegant spices and cedar with notes of tobacco on a moderate tannin laced lingering smooth polished finish. 

RM 92 points. 

Saturday, March 16, 2024

Iconic legendary Monte Bello and birthyear vintage Diamond Creek for birthday celebration

Iconic legendary Monte Bello and birthyear vintage Diamond Creek for birthday celebration ...


We joined son Ryan and his family for a celebration of D-in-law Michelle's and g-daughter Mackenzie's birthdays. For the occasion Ryan opened a birthyear vintage ultra-premium namesake Diamond Creek label that I obtained long ago at auction and gifted to them a while back for such an occasion. He also opened an ultra-premium Ridge Monte Bello to compare.

What better way to celebrate a special occasion than to serve a 100 point wine. This 2017 Ridge Monte Bello is a classic monumental release that got perfect 100 point scores from two critics, and near perfect 99 and 98 scores from the next three. 

I've written in these pages as guidance for neophytes and collectors, there are 'every day' wines, 'once a week' wines, 'once a month' and 'once a year' wines, and then there are 'once in a lifetime', and/ore special occasion wines. Choose your frequency, based on your budget, in any event, these would be 'special occasion' wines! 

This extraordinary exemplary wine "needs a solid decade of bottle age and will have 50-60 years of overall longevity", according to perfect scorer Jeb Dunnuck who wrote, "a legendary Monte Bello, pure perfection ... despite the long drinking window, it offers plenty of pleasure even today."

I wrote in depth about the Ridge Monte Bello vineyards and estate in a tasting journal blogpost back in 2015

Monte Bello has been called an American 'first growth' and is known for bold, complex, long lived Bordeaux style wines. Monte Bello is the unique flagship label of this prolific producer known for a broad line of vineyard select Zinfandels from throughout Northern California  including Sonoma and Napa Counties. Monte Bello is unique not only that it is a Ridge produced Bordeaux blend, but also because it is sourced from fruit from the Monte Bello vineyard, high atop the Santa Cruz mountains that separate Silicon Valley and San Francisco Bay to the east and north, from the Pacific Ocean and the Monterey Bay/Peninsula to the west and south. The Santa Cruz Mountains have their own AVA, little known but highly regarded for some legendary wines such as this.

This is especially notable to us since it is closest to, yet high above the location of our home from when we lived in Saratoga, California, nestled up against the Santa Cruz mountain range down at the bottom of Silicon Valley, near the crease where the road leads up into the mountains and over 'the hill' down to Santa Cruz on the Pacific coast.

Ridge Monte Bello 2017

The 2017 Monte Bello is a Bordeaux Blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc, aged mostly in new American oak. It is sourced 100% from the Santa Cruz Mountains' Monte Bello vineyard.

Deep saturated garnet/purple colored, full-bodied, "incredibly powerful, and one of the most concentrated versions of this cuvée ever made", says Dunnuck.

Synopsis - Complex, yet elegant, bouquet of crème de cassis, lead pencil shavings, graphite, chocolate, and chalky minerality, roasted plums, tar, aniseed and exotic spices, incredible intensity and depth of blackberries, pine needles, blackcurrants and black olives, many layers of fruit and very fine, creamy, velvety tannins.

 RM 96 points.

As noted above, this was rated 100 points by Jeb Dunnuck and Wilfred Wong of Wine.com, 99 points by James Suckling, incredible concensus of 98 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, The Somm Journal and Wine & Spirits, 96 by Wine Spectator, #77 of Wine Spectator's Top 100 of 2020, and 94 by Connoisseurs' Guide. 

100 Points – Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com
100 Points –  Wilford Wong of Wine.com
99 Points – James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com
98-100 Points – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
98 Points – Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate
98 Points – Joshua Greene, Wine & Spirits
97+ Points – Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media
96 Points – James Molesworth, Wine Spectator

The accolades were substantial and momentous - "Ridge's Monte Bello occupies a rarefied space and time. This iconic wine, produced out of the Santa Cruz Mountains, has a life of its own that can never be replicated." - Jeb Dunnuck

"The 2017 vintage is cosmic." - James Suckling

What sets the palate apart is its purity: though incredibly layered, it offers a kaleidoscopic journey from blackcurrant to tobacco and dried flowers, offering continual sparks of flavor long after the wine has been swallowed.

Refined, spicy nose; velvety texture. Fresh and tangy, elegant and complex, with layers of juicy plum and berry; wonderful now, it will be spectacular in a few years - 98 Wine & Spirits

One of California’s most iconic Cabernets since its inaugural release some fifty years back, the Ridge Monte Bello bottling justly remains so to this day.

Winemaker Notes- Opaque purple-ruby color. Ripe blackberry fruit, barrel spice, anise, violets, and crushed limestone. Opulent mountain fruits on entry, fennel, sweet oak, well-structured tannins, and firm acid. Powerful complexity and tremendous length to the finish.

https://www.ridgewine.com/

A tough act to follow but this is another legendary wine,vintage aged from a birthyear vintage, hence special in its own right, beyond comparison.


Diamond Creek "Gravelly Meadow" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1983

We have fun with this label commemorating daughter-in-law Michelle, whose maiden name was Diamond. We hold a collection of Diamond Creek Vineyards single vineyard bottlings from their four estate vineyards dating back to the early 80's with highlights such as this birthyear vintage 1983. 

Special wines for special occasions -

We served a horizontal selection of each Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon from magnums at the wedding of our son Ryan to Michelle Diamond! Several magnums were birth year vintages. 

We have visited the Diamond Creek estate several times over the years including a private tasting during our Diamond Mountain Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2011, and again during their release tour open house for their release tasting of the 2015 vintage Diamond Creek releases at an Open House held at the Estate as part of our 2017 Napa Valley Wine Experience.

Diamond Creek Vineyards was founded in 1968 by Al Brounstein, an entrepreneur and was the first California estate to focus solely on and produce only Cabernet Sauvignon.

Located in the Diamond Creek district, on the lower reaches of Diamond Mountain, at the northern end of the Mayacamas range, just south of Calistoga, Diamond Creek, Brounstein was also an early American adopter of the European practice of bottling wines according to which vineyard had produced the grapes, , focusing on, taking advantage, and highlighting the area’s numerous micro-climates and soil types by selecting and bottling distinctive single vineyard designated wines. . 

By the early 1990s he was bottling by even smaller “microclimates” within the various vineyards. Diamond Creek wines are known for their concentration, austerity and deep color and they consistently earn high marks from reviewers. They are known to be long lived, age-worthy wines lasting decades with proper cellaring.


This is another unique tasting experience - one of the four Diamond Creek labels - all single vineyard designated bottlings from one of their distinctive four vineyards at the estate.

 Diamond Creek is a case study in terroir - each of its four vineyards with its own micro-climate, soil type and geography that are revealed in their single vineyard designated Cabernet Sauvignon wines - named for their four distinctly different origination vineyards. 

The vineyards of Diamond Creek, as pictured here are Gravelly Meadow (5 acres - center left), Red Rock Terrace (7 acres front), Volcanic Hill (8 ac,res opposite), and Lake (¾ acre), plus Petit Verdot (1 acre) to the left outside of frame. 

The vineyards are amazingly co-located close to each other yet have distinctive individual characteristics that are revealed in their wines. 

Though Brounstein died in 2006 the wines remain highly collectible. Today the vineyards are planted to Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. About 3,500 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon are produced annually.

With co-founder, matriarch
Boots Brounstein

With fellow 'Pour Boys' Dan and Bill at the
Diamond Creek estate open house

Winemaker notes about Gravelly Meadow - "Our second coolest microclimate is our five-acre Gravelly Meadow vineyard. Originally a prehistoric river bed, this stony, gravelly soil drains rapidly and the vines struggle for moisture.'

"Gravelly Meadow is our lowest yielding vineyard. The wines are described as "earthy, cedary, jammy and ripe blackberry with a spicy expansive finish."

Read More: https://www.thedailymeal.com/wine/diamond-creek-gravelly-meadow-cabernet-sauvignon-magnum-1983/

At forty years, this aged Napa Valley Cabernet was still approachable, showing and drinking remarkably well. While past its prime, it was still within its drinking window, showing very little diminution from age.

James Laube of Wine Spectator cited, "A successful 1983, with remarkable length, finesse and texture, remarkable flavor for such a difficult and tannic vintage..."

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, complex and still vibrant plum and berry fruits with notes of cedar, tobacco, earthy leather and hints of anise, dark bitter mocha and smoke with moderate tannins on a moderate lingering finish.

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=45804

 https://www.diamondcreekvineyards.com/

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2011/03/diamond-mountain-wine-experience.html

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2017/07/diamond-creek-open-house-2013-release.html  

Ryan then opened one of our favorite producer's labels.

Robert Craig Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2015

How touching for Ryan to open one of our favorite producer's labels for continuing the Cabernet flight. Robert Craig is one of the broadest and deepest producer holdings in our cellar collection. Our Cellartracker records show we hold four cases of this label across a dozen vintages. Notably, this was the last vintage release of this storied label.

Robert Craig produced five different labels - what he called four mountains and a valley - a mountain fruit Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Atlas Peak, Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain, and this one from Mt Veeder. I recall Robert telling us on numerous occasions that his favorite label was the Mount Veeder (Napa Valley) Cabernet Sauvignon. This was likely in light of his early years managing vineyards up on Mt Veeder on behalf of Hess Collection, and then Robin William's winery (Toad Hollow, named for his brother Todd, whose name he couldn't pronounce as a child calling him Toad instead of Todd), and then his long history sourcing fruit from vineyards there to supply one of his key labels, the Mt Veeder Cabernet of the Robert Craig portfolio. 

This long association ended just a couple of years ago with the purchase of the vineyards by the Tesseron French conglomerate from the estate of the departed Robin Williams. This was the last vintage release of this label as noted by the producer - "After 22 years sourcing our Veeder Cabernet from the Pym Rae Vineyard, the 2015 will be our final bottling from the late Robin Williams’ 19-acre property. Pym Rae is on the north end of the appellation, free from coastal influence, where the fruit develops incredible structure and purity. For now, we say a fond farewell to an outstanding property and old friend, while looking ahead to 2019, when we will introduce our first Cabernet from our new estate vineyard—newly christened “Amentet Vineyard”—which abuts the Pym Rae property.

Notably, Robert Craig also passed away around this time. I wrote about Robert and this label in a tribute in these pages in 2019 - Robert Craig Tribute - Robert Craig Tribute and Remembrance - Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon. Sadly, this is the end of an era for this label with which we have a long history and many memories dating back to the inaugural release in 1993-94.


Winemaker's Notes - "Our 2015 Mount Veeder offering is a towering wine of tremendous tannin structure coupled with dense color. Classic Mount Veeder markers are present in force; dried cocoa, pencil shaving, cassis, and mountain violet are woven into this tightly wound wine. This Mount Veeder release is without doubt one of the most profound Cabernets that we have produced at Robert Craig Winery in terms of its size and power. If enjoying this wine young, a two-hour decant is recommended. The 2015 Mount Veeder will cellar comfortably for decades yet should start to show well as soon as 2020."

This was a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Merlot. It was aged 18 months in Chateau-style French oak; 80% new & 20% 2nd year.

This was described as Amentet Estate Vineyard, Mount Veeder and was rated 95 points by Antonio Galloni of Vinous. He wrote: "One of the highlights in this range, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mt. Veeder) is seriously beautiful. A healthy dollop (24%) of Merlot gives the wine terrific mid-palate pliancy and fruit depth to play off of the more intensely mineral and soil-drive signatures, of which there are many. Raspberry jam, crushed rocks, blood orange, white pepper and red cherry jam infuse this deep, powerful Cabernet Sauvignon from Robert Craig." Antonio Galloni, Vinous, March 2018

Going forward, this label will continue with the 2019 vintage, explained by the producer below:

https://store.robertcraigwine.com/2015-Mount-Veeder-Cabernet-Sauvignon

"Perched at 1,700’ of elevation along Wall Road on the north end of the Mount Veeder AVA, this 6.5-acre vineyard is destined for greatness. After 22 vintages of purchasing fruit on a handshake contract with the late actor Robin Williams from the neighboring Pym Rae vineyard, it was a joy to receive a first harvest from our own immaculate young vineyard in 2016. We christened the property Amentet Vineyard, after the Egyptian Goddess of the West. With the “rebirth” of our Veeder Cab, Amentet (pronounced “AH-men-TETT”) seems the perfect patroness—the goddess of fertility and rebirth, who was often depicted with a hawk perched upon her head. Given the number of red tails spotted from our new vineyard, this seems particularly providential. The site was planted and managed by the same man who farmed the neighboring Pym Rae vineyard for Robin for more than two decades, and it is no surprise that the resulting wines are so similar. The sandy, gravel-based soils of shale with a sandstone topsoil produce wines that are black in color with very low PH values and naturally high acids. A perfect combination for longevity. The beauty of this warmer, fog-free northern section of Mount Veeder is that the wines are free of any unwanted vegetal or rustic characteristics that can affect cooler climate sites to the south." 

Tuesday, November 14, 2023

Robert Craig Affinity and Beef Bourguignon - A Perfect Pairing

Beef Bourguignon and Robert Craig Affinity for a Delicious Perfect Food and Wine Pairing

Following our dinner the other night featuring Beef Bourguignon and a Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend, we did a repeat with leftovers and another similarly situated wine selection. Tonight we pulled from the cellar a Robert Craig Affinity, his Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux Blend. This turned out to a perfect 100 point wine and food pairing.

I've written often that Robert Craig Napa Valley Cabernets are one of the largest holdings in our cellar dating back to the inaugural release vintage back in 1993 and 1994. Affinity is the basic Bordeaux Blend aside several appellation specific Cabernet Sauvignons in the Robert Craig portfolio. I've written how Robert intimated that he was most proud of this label and went to lengths to keep the price affordable so it could used as an entry point introduction to the brand and portfolio.

I could not imagine a wine that would be better suited for tonight's spectacular delicious dinner. This evening we had the beef over buttery cheese mashed potatoes rather than the linguini noodles.

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux Blend 2005

This is a classic example of the optimal pairing of wine with food accentuates and amplifies the enjoyment of both! We've had at least of dozen vintages of this label over the years and I don't recall any one that I enjoyed more. 

This vintage release is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot.

Winemaker Notes - "Expansive ripe black cherry and currant aromas, with spice, black tea and violet notes. Bright and abundant dark fruit flavors and black currant liqueur are intertwined with sweet spice box, licorice and violets. Opulent black cherry drives the lively, long-lived finish. A rich, multi-layered Cabernet that balances power with finesse.'

"The 2005 Affinity marries the power and richness of Napa Valley hillside Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot for a complex, supple and stylish Bordeaux-blend, backed by silky, ripe tannins. Luscious fruit flavors of great depth and purity are hallmarks of Affinity together with integrated tannin structure for long-term aging."

This release was awarded 90 points by Wine Advocate and 89 points by Wine Spectator. Robert Parker called it a "elegant Margaux-like stylish, graceful wine".

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, well-balanced, full round rich intense flavors of black currant and black cherry fruits with notes of cinnamon spice, sweet cassis, toasty oak, graphite, and hints of cedar. 

RM 93 points.

At eighteen years the fill level was ideal as was the foil, the label was slightly torn, and most importantly, the cork was slightly saturated and a bit soft from some past seepage, but still intact.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=442936

https://robertcraigwine.com/

@RobertCraigWine 


Thursday, September 14, 2023

Robert Craig Spring Mtn Cab with T-Bone Steak

Robert Craig Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon with grilled T-Bone Steak

Linda grilled a T-Bone steak served with baked potatoes, grilled corn with peppers and chopped salad. I pulled from the cellar this aged Napa Spring Mtn Cabernet for the occasion for an ideal food wine pairing. 


Robert Craig Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

We first drank one of our bottles of this label release and wrote about it back in January 2023 when we served it at a Wine Dinner Featuring Spring Mountain Wines. Excerpts from that blogpost here.

This Robert Craig Spring Mountain District Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon label was first released in 2005. It was sourced from the picturesque Joan Crowley vineyard perched at 2000 foot elevation along the summit of Spring Mountain, high above the town of St Helena in the Mayacamas Range that forms the western slope of Napa Valley. The site is primarily dry-farmed, reducing vigor and crop yield resulting in small, flavor-packed berries. 

As I have written often in these pages, (the late) Robert Craig focused on and specialized in hillside and mountain fruit from leading producing regions of Napa including Mt. Veeder, Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain and Diamond Mountain. Add Mt George and Atlas Peak above the town of Napa and you have the four corners of the Napa Valley. He often referred to it as 'four mountains and a valley' in describing his portfolio of Cabernets. 

We hold a vertical collection of Robert Craig Cabernets going all the way back to their inaugural vintage release in 1993. It is one of the largest producer collections in our cellar across seven different labels and three decades of vintages.

While Robert Craig Winery owned many of their vineyard sources, they bought fruit from select vineyards on the various mountains. They worked with Napa Valley based hillside vineyards generally at altitudes of 1,600 feet or higher. 

Robert started his career up on Mt Veeder, initially developing the William Hill vineyard, and then later, at The Hess Collection as their General Manager. In addition, he helped develop 300 vineyard acres on Mt. Veeder for the movie star comedian Robin Williams estate. Robert Craig sourced Cabernet Sauvignon fruit from there for over two decades for the Mt Veeder designated Cabernet label until Robin's passing and the recent sale of the estate and the Pym Rae vineyard to the French Tesseron wine empire Family. Their recent first release label from that property was priced at $350. Robert often said that Mt Veeder was his favorite of his Cabernets. He was instrumental in forming sub appellations for both Mt. Veeder area and Spring Mountain.

We memorialized Robert who passed away a in September 2019 from complications from Parkinson’s disease in this blogpost - Robert Craig Tribute.

The Robert Craig Winery is perched at an elevation of almost 2300 feet high up on Howell Mountain on the north east side of Napa Valley. It is among some of Napa’s highest vineyards. At this elevation they actually see some snow in the winter at times. The location sits above the town of Angwin and their permit at the actual winery limits them to an extremely small number of visitors, as well as only several events per year at the actual winery, hence, they maintain a tasting room in the city of Napa. 

We attended a several tastings and dinners over the years with Robert and Lynn Craig and sometimes staff at numerous various events. 

Some of the highlight over the years were a private dinner with Robert and Lynn at the CIA (Culinary Institute of America), St Helena, back in 1988, another was a private tasting there at the Robert Craig Howell Mountain Estate in 2008, where we also attended the Harvest Party at the estate in 2009.

http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa-09/napa-09-craig/napa_harvest_09_craig.htm

http://www.mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa_08/napa_08_craig.htm

My recollection is that I first tasted this Spring Mountain label upon its release during that visit in 2008 (shown above and left). Craig served a comparison tasting against the Mt Veeder and Howell Mountain labels. The Spring Mountain was served from the barrel, and it was my standout favorite, being slightly sweeter than the other two.

 I remember the allocation for Club members was limited to three bottles. I negotiated a mixed case purchase of twelve bottles of the 05, 06 and 07 vintages, the remains of which we're enjoying tonight.  

Robert Craig writes of this label; "The Crowley vineyard is a close fit for our mountain Cabernet portfolio from the highest elevations of Napa Valley. Overlooking St. Helena from its perch at 2,000 feet, this vineyard’s rocky volcanic soil, varied hillside exposures, and moderate climate produce densely concentrated winegrapes. Joan Crowley’s low-yield, biodynamically farmed vineyard has provided us with deep, aromatic and structured wines since our first vintage with it in 2005. The mountain is cooled by afternoon breezes from the nearby Pacific Ocean, creating moderate daytime temperatures and cooler nights that allow grapes to ripen slowly without pushing high alcohol and sugars. The heady, deep perfume that is a Spring Mountain District signature is always present in this cabernet that is hard to come by." 

In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon varietal grapes, Robert Craig also sourced from the Crowley vineyard Bordeaux varietal Petite Verdot.

Robert Craig Napa Valley Spring Mountain District Crowley Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

This release was awarded 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 92 points by Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator, and 17.5/20 by Jancis Robinson.

Parker wrote, "This is a very exciting wine that should drink well for 20-25 years." (RP) 94+  (12/2009)

Production of the 2007 release was a mere 640 cases.

Winemaker notes on Spring Mountain and the Crowley vineyard: "
The Crowley vineyard is a close fit for our mountain Cabernet portfolio from the highest elevations of Napa Valley. Overlooking St. Helena from its perch at 2,000 feet, this vineyard’s rocky volcanic soil, varied hillside exposures, and moderate climate produce densely concentrated wine grapes. The mountain is cooled by afternoon breezes from the nearby Pacific Ocean, creating moderate daytime temperatures and cooler nights that allow grapes to ripen slowly without pushing high alcohol and sugars. for a sense of place that establishes a wine’s unique identity, is the perfect concept to describe the qualities of Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignons." 
 
 At sixteen years, the fill level, foil and most importantly the cork were in pristine condition. The label was only slightly soiled from excess humidity in the cellar at some point.

Dark inky garnet purple colored, full-bodied, complex, dense concentrated full and round blackberry, wild berry and plum fruits with notes of clove spice, smoked meat and cassis and a hint of mint, with a lingering smooth polished finish.

RM 93 points. 

In 2009 Robert Parker wrote that this is a very exciting wine that should drink well for 20-25 years. Wine Enthusiast said this this is a good wine to seek out for the cellar. The producer comments on the 2019 vintage release of this label - "That is to say, it is one of the highest quality red wines to be produced anywhere in the Napa Valley at any price."

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=863547

https://robertcraigwine.com/

https://twitter.com/RobertCraigWine

@RobertCraigWine

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/09/robert-craig-tribute.html

 


Friday, May 26, 2023

Pour Boys Winers & Diners 23 Cityscape Beef Tenderloin Wine Dinner

 

Pour Boys Winers & Diners 2023 Cityscape Beef Tenderloin Wine Dinner

Our 'Pour Boys' wine group gathered prior to the Indy 500 race weekend in Chicago and were hosted by Lyle and Terry for their customary 'Winers & Diners' CityScape beef tenderloin dinner. 

As usual, it was a wonderful evening of friends and fellowship that included an extraordinary dinner and wine experience with a broad extensive selection of fabulous wines featuring some new labels and old cellar favorites. The gathering pulled together an extraordinary, spectacular selection of fine wines for the tasting - two rated 100 points and five rated 95 points or higher. 



The group were joined by 'Champagne John' who brought his customary spectacular sparklers, a pair of ultra-premium vintage labels, and Steve, who brought his usual ultra-premium vintage Borgogne. 

This year we were joined by newcomer Pour Boy, Tom C, who joined the Pour Boys in their traditional wine-pouring duties at the UGCB 2020 Vintage Release Tour Chicago 2023 tasting in January. Tom and Lisa brought a trio of premium Borgogne Chardonnays.

Host and hostess Lyle and Terry prepared their usual extensive fabulous dinner with Lyle grilling scallops and beef tenderloins, accompanied with escalloped potatoes and asparagus wrapped in prosciutto.

 




 The Hor'd Ovres and starter courses before dinner included a broad selection of shrimp cocktail, grilled scallops, an extensive selection of artisan cheeses, with fresh vegetables, fruits and nuts, deviled eggs and more. The soup course included Vichysoiss with fresh baked biscuits. 

The Champagne course included a pair of vintage Billecart-Salmon vintage Champagnes brought by John, the  Elisabeth Salmon Cuvée 2008 and Les Clos Saint-Hilaire 2006. Ernie added a Veuve Clicquot Gold label.

Billecart-Salmon Champagnes

The Champagne House of Billecart-Salmon dates back to 1818 when Nicolas François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon were married, a family story from the beginning with Louis Salmon, brother of Elisabeth, a talented oenologist, overseeing the creation of the wines. Continuing the family tradition for seven generations, they remain faithful to the motto: "Give priority to quality, strive for excellence".

The champagnes of Maison Billecart-Salmon are created from the estate of 240 acres, and sourcing grapes from an area totaling 750 acres across 40 crus of the Champagne region.

The majority of the grapes used for vinification come from a radius of 20km around the village of Epernay along the Marne River at the bottom of the Champagne region. There the Grand Crus of Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay flourish in the vineyards of the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs.

We toured the region and vineyards during our Champagne Wine Experience back in 2006

Billecart-Salmon "Cuvée Elisabeth" Brut Rosé Champagne 2008

The 2008 Billecart-Salmon “Cuvée Elisabeth” is named for the founder matriarch. This Rosé Champagne is made mostly from Grand Cru vineyards, but it is the 1'er Cru that goes into it that makes it so special. 

The blend includes about 10 percent red wine that gives this rosé its color that comes from a small plot of 80-year-old Pinot Noir in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ called the Valofroy. This parcel, adjacent to the Clos des Goisses faces due south and directly down at the Marne. 

The production from this ancient site is the limiting factor for the production of this rare tête de cuvée. 

The wine is composed of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay to which is added the old vine Pinot red wine that makes up about 10% of the total that gives this wine its color.

The 2008 Billecart-Salmon "Cuvée Elisabeth" Brut Rosé was awarded 98 points by James Suckling and Decanter, 97 points by Wine Advocate and Vinous, 96 points by Wine Enthusiast, and 94 points by both Jeb Dunnuck and Wine Spectator. 

Wine Advocate says "the 2008 Brut Rosé Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon is one of the finest wines I've tasted from Billecart in recent years."

Dark orange copper colored, full-bodied, silky texture and complex, super dry intense layered flavours of cherry, strawberry and nectarine with notes of clove and cinnamon spice on the long, elegant harmonious finish.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3901361

Billecart-Salmon Champagne Les Clos Saint-Hilaire 2006

This is a unique classic single varietal Blanc de Noirs cuvée that bears the name of the Patron Saint of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. This source Clos (vineyard) is a mere two acres that meets strict standards: a single, unbroken and enclosed plot planted like a garden in the middle of the Billecart property in Mareuil. The vines are all old massals that were planted in 1964. 

Only one press load of this 100% Pinot Noir was made for a total production of 3,700 bottles, the wine is completely barrel fermented, and dosed at just 2 grams per liter. This is a profound wine that ages 13 years on the lees  rendering immense concentration and power.  

Although it was disgorged in November 2020, winemaster Mathieu Roland Billecart held on and delayed the release, ageing post disgorgement that he cites "is just as important as that before it and sometimes overlooked".

The 2006 Billecart-Salmon "Le Clos Saint-Hilaire" Brut Blanc de Noirs Champagne was awarded 98 points by Vinous, 95 points by Wine Advocate, and 93 points by Decanter.

Vinous writes, "The 2006 Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is fabulous. In this radiant year, the Clos Saint-Hilaire has a touch more mid-palate sweetness and generosity, but that’s a good thing, as it balances some of the more austere leanings that can make young vintages hard to appreciate upon release. Apricot, lemon confit, ginger, graphite, spice and crushed rocks are strands in a gorgeous, captivating tapestry that dazzles right out of the gate. The precision here is just mind-blowing. Billecart's 2006 Clos Saint-Hilaire is a very special Champagne."

Golden rust colored, full-bodied, powerful, layered and vinous,  complex, concentrated, muscular with aromas of pear and plum, dried red cherry fruits, hints of brioche and nuts and spices with racy acids on a long, finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4209557

https://www.champagne-billecart.fr/en

Dan brought a pair of dessert wines for the cheese and salad course, a Sauterne Premiere Grand Cru Classe, and a label Yellow Muscat he acquired and brought from Slovenia.

Château Rabaud-Promis Premiere Gran Cru Classe 2009 Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend

The Rabaud-Promis castle lies opposite Chateau d'Yquem on the hill Rabaud and dates back to the late eighteenth century. The estate vineyards dating back to the birth of Sauterne surround the house on the gentle slopes. 

Premier cru classified in 1855, Chateau Rabaud-Promis was bought in 1950 by Louis Raymond Lanneluc. Today, the property is family managed by Michele and Philippe Dejean and his son Thomas, representing the 9th generation of winemakers in Sauternes.

Winemaker Notes - Full and intense, this vintage envelops you in its aromas of honeyed yellow fruit, apricot jam, quince paste, exotic fruit with a hint of lemon balm.

This was rated 96 points by Wine Enthusiast, 94 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, and 93points by Wine Spectator.

Dark golden colored full bodied, rich, thick and unctuous with intense bouquet and flavors of pear, zesty orange and peach and with spicy honey and roasted nut on a persistent long acidic finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=894124

Rodica Truške, Istria, Slovenia Rumeni (Yellow) Muscat 2016 

Dr Dan acquired this wine traveling to the region and brought back to share with our wine group.

From the Producer - "The Rodica Family Organic Winery is located in the heart of Slovenian Istria, in the village of Truške near Marezige above Koper. The wine cellar lies on top of a hill overlooking the sea of the Gulf of Trieste and the unspoiled nature of the Dragonja River. The vineyards are spread on the southern slopes of the Istrian hills at an altitude of 250 to 350 m. We cultivate 60,000 vines on 15 hectares, planted mainly with indigenous varieties of Refosco, Malvasia, and Yellow Muscat, as well as others, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Pinot Gris'. 

"The lands on which we have planted our vines were abandoned and overgrown for the past 50 years. Planted in poor, shallow soil, the vines grow modestly. By showing great respect for nature, thus, we grow great-tasting, healthful grapes from which we produce healthful and strong wines that reflect the character of our wine-growing district."

From US Distributor Vinum - "In 1998, Marinko Rodica, a car mechanic by trade, decided to start a new chapter in his life and became a winemaker. 10 years later, in 2008 Rodica family winery had sixty thousand vines and was certified organic. The brand new environmentally friendly and energy efficient wine cellar was completed in 2012. None of this would be possible without Marinko’s vision and passion and the support of his entire family. Today, Rodica estate organically farms 15 hectars of vineyards, with most of them planted with Malvasia and Refošk.:

Classification: Sweet white wine 

Varietals: 100% Rumeni Muskat (yellow muscat) 

Appellation: Truške, Istria, Slovenia 

Annual Production: 5,000 bottles 

Climate: Mild Mediterranean, with dry and hot summers, and mild winters. 

Terrain: The picturesque hills near Marezige and Truške are located 5 km from the Adriatic sea, more specifically the Gulf of Trieste. Rodica family vineyards are planted at 250-350 meters asl, terraced, facing South. They enjoy significant day-night temperature swings, constant breezes, which keeps the vineyards well-ventilated and naturally healthy for organic farming. The soil is rich with minerals, consisting predominantly of limestone. The vines are forced to “fight” to get water, which results in better quality grapes. 

Vinification: After de-stemming the grapes are macerated with the pulp and skins for just a few hours and spontaneous fermentation begins. The wine is then transferred into stainless steel tanks where it continues controlled fermentation process. Matured for 6 months in 2,500-liter acacia barrels and bottled unfiltered.

Tasting Notes: From Merchant MrDWine - "Our favorite Slovenian sweet wine, period! This wine combines the typical floral, honeyed lemon peel aromatics of yellow muscat with gorgeous acidity and earthiness. It offers so much more than a regular sweet wine. Beautiful pine notes on the nose, light freshness and mineral texture on the palate. Enjoy chilled with not-so-sweet desserts, or just by itself."

Note - This label was not listed among the nearly 5 million labels in Cellartracker. I added it to the collection. Its hard and rare to find a label not already listed in their massive database.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4668723

https://www.rodica.si/en

For the transition from sweet wines and Champagne to the whites, Ernie brought this 2017 d'Yquem "Y" Bordeaux Blanc. 

 d'Yquem "Y" Bordeaux Blanc 2017  

This is an exotic dry white wine that could be considered the 'second wine' of famed ultra-premium producer Château d'Yquem.

This is a blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon. 80% of the blend was aged in used Yquem barrels with 20% new oak.

This release was rated 98 points by James Suckling, 95 by points Wine Spectator, 94 by points Decanter, 92 points by Vinous, and 17.5 of 20 by Jancis Robinson, the same she gave to the grand vin.

Light silver straw colored, full bodied, crisp, seductive, exotic dry white with dense rich notes of tropical fruits - peach, mango, pineapple, yellow apple and lemon peel, with fine acidity on the smooth balanced finish. 

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3095929

 

With the salads and soup course we enjoyed this trio of  Michel Colin-Deleger  Chassagne-Montrachet Burgundies brought by Tom and Lisa.

Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly 2015

From the original domaine located in Chassagne-Montrachet, founded in 1950, Domaine Michel Colin-Deléger was created in 1987 by Michel Colin-Deléger, the nephew of the great Georges Deléger. 

Michel Colin inherited part of the Chevenottes vineyard, combining it with holdings from the Colin family’s domaine. The 2015 vintage was Michel's last, as he finally retired after a stellar career in which he vinified some of the most esteemed climats of the Côte de Beaune.

Michel semi-retired in 2003, passing on his vineyard holdings to sons Philippe and Bruno Colin. Until his full retirement twelve years later in 2015, he continued to farm three small parcels, producing just a handful of barrels per year: Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Demoiselles, and Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

Though the quantities were small, the mature master vigneron produced Chardonnay’s that represented the domaine's greatest terroirs. All three vineyards are within a stone’s throw of one another, with En Remilly just around the corner on the south side of Chevalier-Montrachet and Puligny Les Demoiselles on the northern edge of Le Montrachet. 

Michel Colin-Deléger continues to works with his sons, Philippe and Bruno to produce a notable portfolio of premium white wines.

Colin-Deleger owns nearly 50 acres of vineyards in the vicinity of Chassagne-Montrachet. These include the well-known Le Demoiselle, Puligny Premiers Crus La Tryufer, battery-Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet, from a crop from which the farm produce great wines with a fruity aroma and complex, full-bodied taste.

Currently Michel Colin is almost retired, handing the business over to the sons, but continues to control a limited edition wines of the most valuable vineyards - Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet Premiers Crus An Remiyi and Puligny-Montrachet Premiers Crus Les Demoiselle .  

Distributor notes -  Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru En Remilly has a brilliant yellow-gold visual aspect. Its nose is expressive, exhaling floral aromas with light buttery notes. There is beautiful substance on the palate, with a light richness and fairly marked acidity.

Pale straw coloredm medium bodied, concentrated, almost rich flavors of delicate peach, pear and a touch of lemon, white stone fruits with hint of sweetness.

RM 91

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2585993

The interim pivot to the 'big reds' was filled by Steve's classic Vosne-Romanée Burgundy.

Domaine François Gerbet Vosne-Romanée 2014

Of course, the commune in the Côte-d'Or department in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté produces the region's, perhaps the world's most celebrated wines, all made entirely from the Pinot Noir grape.

While the appellation is known for the dynastic monopoly of four of the six grandest of grand crus, the village has at least forty growers that also comprise and share its vineyards. The wines produced from the vineyards are diverse but generally considered to be rich, silky and well balanced, with a complexity which surpasses many of the other wines of Burgundy. 

Wines from the famous village include several renowned premier cru level producers, aside the villages sensational and legendary six grand crus: Romanée-Conti, La Romanée, La Tâche, Richebourg, Romanée-Saint-Vivant and La Grande Rue. 

While the Premiers Crus do not command the same prices as their grand cru neighbours, the village is home to many outstanding premier cru wines. Besides the legendary plots, the top vineyards include Les Gaudichots, Les Malconsorts, Les Suchots, Cros Parantoux, Les Chaumes, and Clos des Réas.  

A stand-alone Pinot Noir, this was one of the standouts of the evening with bright vibrant, elegant and harmonious fruits, although Steven had to pinch himself as he couldn't believe I was saying so!

Bright ruby colored, medium bodied, aromas and flavors fresh bright vibrant strawberry, cherry and slighter subdued fruits of blackberry, accented by notes of spice and hints of tobacco and leather finishing with elegant smooth polished fine tannins.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2750048

We then moved to the entree course of beef tenderloin and the Bordeaux varietal reds. 

We invariably spend time at the beginning of each evening, setting up the tasting, sampling the wines so as to serve them properly in order, from lighter to heavier or bolder. The placement occurs and then is fine tuned throughout the evening as the wines open up and reveal their character and profiles. 

It was through this tuning that the St Estephe revealed itself and moved up front of the other Bordeaux, showing itself to be especially approachable and elegantly polished. 

Château Cos d' Estournel St. Estephe Bordeaux 2009

I started to write that this stand-out wine emerged as one of the stars of the evening, but then when I researched its rating and ranking, I realized that it was wholly noted and recognized to be deserving of such. Leave it to John to produce a (not-so) hidden gem of the evening. 

The ever modest John noted that this vintage release showed as well as the legendary 2005 vintage, and he was right on.  

Ernie and I reminisced about the impressive majestic and commanding Château with its gates overlooking the bages (right) as one turns the corner on the road climbing the hill into Saint Estephe from Pauillac. 

We were both visiting the region during the time that Château Lynch Bages was under construction, and we were directed to visit the Château de Pez estate immediately opposite Cos d'Estournel. In fact, Ernie ended staying there at the Château during his visit. 

The 2009 Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe was ranked 100 points by Jeb Dunnuck and Wine Advocate. It also received 98 points by James Suckling, and 97 points by Wine Spectator. 

This is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc.

Dark deep inky garnet colored, full-bodied, while massive on the palate, it's elegance and flawless polish and balanced presented a remarkably approachable pleasurable drinking wine, plum, red currant and blackberry fruits with classic Saint-Estèphe notes of dried tobacco, creosote, earthy spices, and licorice with subtle graphite on silky smooth plush tannins and fantastic freshness, finishing very long and very spicy.

Clearly this was the best, and most memorable Cos I have ever tasted from the dozen or so vintages that I have had. I'll relish my collection with more reverence, and attention, going forward.

RM 96 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=874488

https://www.estournel.com/en/

Ernie telegraphed he was bringing an 'older' Lynch Bages (1993), so I pulled from the cellar an aged vintage from the spectacular 1990 vintage to compare. Lyle rounded out the mini-vertical with a recent release. 

Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac Bodeaux, 1990, 1993, and 2018

As mentioned, Ernie and I jousted with our reminiscences of visiting the Château and estate vineyards on the outskirts of the commune of Pauillac during about the same time.

We've both served Lynch Bages at the UGCB event and hold a vertical collection of the label spanning (more than) three decades. Indeed, I am hold a large double magnum of the label from the early nineties of
which we need to find a suitable occasion at which to serve.

1990 Lynch-Bages Pauillac 

I violated one of my normal tenants and brought from our collection a birth-year vintage wine from son Alec's birthyear collection, holding for a family event.

I found this wine probably at its apex, the height of its drinking window, and likely to start to diminish from age from this point forward.  It was ideal to pair and compare with the other vintage (s). As one of the oldest vintages, I triple decanted this, allowing it to open, and it showed remarkably well from the outset.

From a spectacular vintage, this is another spectacular showing wine, this was awarded a near perfect 99 points by Wine Advocate. It also was awarded 96 points by Vinous, 94 points by Wine Spectator, and 93 points by Int'l Wine Cellar. I should also note that Jancis Robinson gave it 18.5 points on her 20 point scale. I should then note that I personally find her twenty point scale more logical, rationale and easier to manage, but the pack has taken commanded and the industry has subscribed to the 100 point model.  

Robert Parker wrote, "This magnificent Lynch Bages has been drinking well since the day it was released and it continues to go from strength to strength. The biggest, richest, fullest-bodied Lynch Bages until the 2000, the fully mature 1990 exhibits an unbelievably explosive nose of black currants, cedarwood, herbs and spice. The majestic, classically Bordeaux aromatics are followed by a full-bodied, voluptuously textured, rich, intense wine with superb purity as well as thrilling levels of fruit, glycerin and sweetness."

On the same vintage Vinous writes, "The 1990 Lynch-Bages remains the towering Pauillac it has always been, even if Jean-Michel Cazes personally prefers the 1989. It has a riveting, graphite-infused bouquet that is brilliantly defined, very focused and sharp as a razor-blade. Poured directly against the 1990 Lafite-Rothschild, this Fifth Growth beats it hands down. ...  this is an aristocratic Lynch-Bages with impressive grip after 28 years (in 2019)."

Note the price I paid on release of this wine back in early nineties. 

Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied, blackberry and black currant fruits with notes of tar, herbs, spice, black tea, leather and hints of cedar, turning to silky tannins on a long, long finish. Probably a bit past its prime but still showing well.

RM 92 points. 

Its a bit remarkable that this label has a 'three digit' number out of the millions of labels now registered with Cellartracker in their vast database.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=451


1993 Lynch-Bages, Pauillac

This release was awarded 91 points by Wine Advocate and  90 points by Int'l Wine Cellar.

Classic Pauillac Lynch Bages profile, dark inky garnet colored, medium full bodied, blackberry and black plum briary fruits with earthy leather and smoky, cigar box, spice, cedar, anise and black tea notes on a moderate tannin laced finish. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=31772

https://twitter.com/lynch_bages 

@lynch_bages

Dan brought a Chateau Pichon (Longueville Comtesse) Lalande, so Lyle pulled from his cellar a vintage release to compare.

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2010 & 2014

Two more spectacular wines. These were both markedly tight and somewhat closed, perhaps, and likely in that awkward interim period of aging, needing a couple more years to open and reveal their native character and profile. Great to try and interesting tasting of one of my favorite labels and a typically classic long lived Bordeaux wine.  

This is one of my absolute favorite labels. Touring the grounds of the Château estate and vineyards was one of the highlights of our trip to the appellation in 2019. (below) 

Château Pichon Lalande 2010 

Another blockbuster wine with giant ratings, the 2010 Pichon-Lalande was also awarded 100 points by Decanter, 98 points by Vinous, 96 points and "Cellar Selection" (one for long term aging) by Wine Enthusiast, and 95 points by Wine Spectator. This is why we do tastings and make note of how they are aging at various stages of their life! 

One Cellartracker wrote in spring of 2013, "Too young to drink now, need years of further cellaring to show its deep potential." He gave it 96 points!

Decanter wrote, "For me this is getting better as it ages, starting to rival the 1982 at Comtesse, and I can't wait to keep tasting it over the decades to come. Last time I rated this wine, in 2016, I gave it 98 points, and I questioned whether to keep it there, which is already an exceptional score, but I want to mark just how clearly it stood out in this horizontal. (1/2020)

Vinous called it "An eternal wine, a total showstopper. The first impression is one of explosive power, but time in the glass brings out the wine’s more delicate, floral side. Violet, graphite, crème de cassis, licorice and menthol overtones recall the 1996.

Wine Enthusiast writes that "a stronger presence of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend than in the past, making it more structured than its predecessors, with a dominance of black currant flavor"

Classic Pichon Lalande tasting profile, dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, firm, tight and a bit closed surpressing that complex concentrated yet elegant and polished black fruit with notes of black tea, cassis, graphite and tobacco leaf with hints of truffle and anise on a firm lingering structured tannin finish. 

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1128959

Chateau Pichon Lalande 2014

Ditto the comments on the 2010 above, very similar state, the   2014 Pichon-Lalande got monster ratings, awarded 97 points by Vinous, 95 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 94 points and Cellar Selection by Wine Enthusiast, 94 points, Wine Spectator, and 93 points by James Suckling and Wine Advocate.  

Vinous says "the 2014 Pichon Comtesse might very well be the wine of the vintage on the Left Bank."

Dunnuck wrote: "deeply colored (especially in the vintage) and delivers a heavenly bouquet of crème de cassis, ripe plums, graphite, cedar pencil, roasted coffee, and tons of building minerality and liquid rock-like nuances. Incredibly pure, textured, full-bodied, and with a seamless integration of its fruit, tannin, and acidity, it’s already approachable but will keep for two to three decades."

Wine Enthusiast wrote, "It looks likely the wine will develop slowly, so don't drink before 2025."

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, classic Pauillac black fruits with Crème de cassis, licorice, lavender, licorice and sweet spices with notes of cedar and graphite turning to velvety-textured tannins on a long and flavorful finish.

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2075299

https://twitter.com/PichonComtesse/ 

@PichonComtesse

Bill projected he was going to bring a Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon, one of our favorites. Having just opened this label for my birthday dinner, the 2002, I was anxious to try another vintage, so I pulled from our cellar an aged vintage release to share and compare.

Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 & 2013

Bill and I have enjoyed a dozen vintages of this label over the years and still hold as many in our cellars. We've visited the Robert Craig estate up on Howell Mountain on numerous occasions including the Robert Craig Howell Mountain Harvest Party 2009  (with Robert, right).

I couldn't resist but to bring this aged vintage inaugural release of this legendary Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. It was the 1994 release that Wine Spectator recognized in an article back then citing the vintage and noting Robert Craig as an up and coming producer to watch!. We were hooked and started collecting his wines and notably hold every vintage since of at least one of his labels. And, its time to drink them, so, tonight was an ideal occasion to open this classic label with folks that would appreciate it.

1994 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon  

Like the aged vintage Lynch Bages above, I also triple decanted this bottle as well. 

While showing its age and some diminution of the fruit and slight brickish coloring,  it was still in its drinking window and a notable pairing and comparison with the same label, and similarly aged vintage releases of the evening. This is what these broad tastings are all about, sharing and comparing such labels and releases!

This release got 90 points from both Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator, both reviewed upon release back in 1997.  

Dark blackish purple garnet colored, medium full bodied, complex and concentrated Howell Mountain profile of black currant fruits with hints of classic clove and cinnamon spices, notes of anise, leather and lead pencil and a bit of cedar on a lingering tannin finish. 

RM 90 points.  

 2013 Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 

Winemaker notes ; "2013 was the perfect example of the stark differences between mountain and valley vineyards in Napa. While valley floor yields were up 15-20% overall, Howell Mountain was down 5%*. Why such a difference? The valley saw mild weather during flower and fruit set, while the mountain had cool, very windy conditions. The result was small, loose clusters with tremendous structure, concentration and acid backbone."

Winemaker notes - While 2012 was a classic vintage for Howell Cabernet, 2013 raised the bar. Fruit complexity is off the charts, with stunning acid and tannin backbone. This wine, having spent two years in barrel and an additional year in bottle is showing lovely, lush fruit in its youth, with classic Howell bramble-berry fruit character framed by coffee, mineral and deep, dark, mountain violet tones. Patience, however, will prove to be a virtue: this wine will only get better with age. Cellar now for future rewards. 

"The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mt has an inky purple color that is certainly as saturated as any in the impressive Robert Craig lineup. This is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot with similar elevage as the other wines. Beautifully sweet tannin, whole berry, blackberry and graphite notes are present in this full-bodied, opulent, delicious Howell Mt Cabernet Sauvingon. The color is an opaque purple, the wine expansive, savory and impressive. Drink it over the next 20 years."
Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, 12/30/15

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=49569

https://robertcraigwine.com/

https://twitter.com/RobertCraigWine 

@RobertCraigWine

 

Diamond Creek Napa Valley Red Rock Terrace Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 

Bill brought another spectacular label from a legendary producer. We Pour Boys have visited the Diamond Creek estate on Diamond Mountain on numerous occasions including when our group, Dan, Bill and we attended the vintage release tour there in 2015 (shown left and below). These are chronicled in these blog postings: 

Diamond Mountain Wine Experience - Diamond Creek Vineyards

 Diamond Creek Open House 2015 Release Tasting

As above, we just recently opened a family birth year vintage of this same label from this same producer for a family birthday celebration recently, so I was eager to try this release as a comparison

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2023/04/family-easter-and-birthday-celebration.html

Al and Boots Brounstein founded Diamond Creek Vineyards in 1968. Al Brounstein was one of the first to produce Bordeaux varietals in the Napa Valley Mountains back in the 1970's. He was so captivated by the terroir of his Diamond Mountain property, from the beginning he bottled each vineyard separately as its own designated label. He was one of the first to do so, to recognize and memorialize each vineyard thusly.

The three vineyards Brounstein planted have produced some of the most long-lived, elegant wines from the state of California, wines that make the case "that Diamond Creek is the finest producer of Cabernet Sauvignon in America," according to wine writer Pierre DuMont. 

This is from a seven-acre section of the vineyard estate, Red Rock Terrace is a warm micro-climate on the lower reaches of the mountain, below the fog line and protected from the winds that sweep up from the San Pablo Bay, or in from the Pacific. It is seven acres of iron-rich, north-facing vineyard on Diamond Mountain. 

This vintage label release was awarded 94 points by Wine Spectator, 93 points by Wine Enthusiast. and 92 points by Vinous.

Winemaker Notes: Our winemaker describes Red Rock Terrace as "having velvety tannins, rich and well balanced, medium dark ruby color with cherry, mint and black currant flavors."

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, pure, bright expressive black and red currant fruits with notes of earth, black licorice, anise and hints of cedar turning to silky smooth polished tannins on the moderate finish. 

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1622908

Pivoting between the Bordeaux varietals and the desserts, Bill was generous to bring a bottle of this select, full bore Aussie Shiraz wine from his cellar.

Chateau Tanunda 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz 2008

We, the Pour Boys, discovered this wine at the Wine Spectator Grand Tour in Chicago when it was being poured by Chateau Tanunda's colorful principle, Dagmar O'Neill

Only 100 cases were produced. We manipulated/orchestrated a purchase of eight three packs in OWC's (original wood cases), which was the entire allocation shipped to mid-America, which we split amongst the wine team, pictured in this blogspot feature.

Taking stock around the table, this was Bill's last bottle of that acquisition, Dan's is gone, and Ernie and I still hold one bottle each in our cellars.

Bill's notes from a tasting back in 2014 - "Still the best Shiraz I have tasted and there is a great deal of separation from number 2. Layered and complex with spice, granite, minerals on the palate with a touch of softness not usually expected in a Shiraz. Drinking beautifully now but will last for years."

And then again in 2018, "Almost 4 years exactly since I last tried this and still spectacular with plenty of life still left. Deep, opaque, indigo color. Berry and a bit of smoke on the nose. If anything, some of the roughness of the spice has diminished ( but not by much), to be augmented by sweet, blackberry and raspberry fruit. Spectacular!"

WCC 96 points. 

Tonight, while this was a bit more subdued at fifteen years of age, its still a huge thick chewy Shiraz. I can only think of a few that have been this dense and each of them are memorable tastings. It begs for a thick juicy steak or tangy barbecue. 

Full bodied, complex, concentrated, full lingering tannins predominate the dense, black and blue berry fruits with hints of liquorice, plum and spice and spicy oak.

RM 92 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=937673

http://www.chateautanunda.com/

https://twitter.com/ChateauTanunda

@ChateauTanunda

Terry and Lyle served up their traditional medley of desserts including Terry's decadent Orange Cake, and Chocolate Profiteroles with fresh berries and whipped cream. 


Ernie pulled out his signature ultra-premium Château d'Yquem Sauterne from his extensive broad vertical collection of the label that spans several decades.

To accompany the wine he brought a selection of carefully selection artisan cheeses, drizzles and roasted nuts, to showcase the wine. These were superb in a terrific pairing. 

Château d'Yquem Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend Sauterne 2007

A special treat, as usual, this wine was exquisite, a spectacular pairing iwth the dessert and specially selected cheeses. This is 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, carefully selected from the most ardent and rigorous viticulture and harvesting. 

When picking, they may pass through the vineyards more than two dozen times, in the middle of the night, when cool, to carefully hand select grape by grape, only those at perfect ripeness and brix (sweetness) levels to add to the blend.

This release was awarded 98 points by Wine Advocate. 96 points by Wine Spectator, and 17.5 of 20 by Jancis Robinson.

Distributor notes: "Exquisite. Presents a lovely amber colour, reminiscent of a golden sunset. The nose is an intoxicating blend of honey and apricots, a bouquet that is mirrored in its taste. Additional layers of complexity are revealed through notes of caramel, vanilla, and a hint of spice, adding depth to the honeyed apricot core. The wine is beautifully balanced, with a vibrant acidity that cuts through the sweetness, leading to a long, luscious finish. It's a wine that truly engages all the senses, leaving a lasting impression. Drinking very well already."

Deep orange golden colored, medium to full bodied, complex, rich unctuous and elegantly smooth with notes of dried pineapple, candied honey mango and apricot, hints of grapefruit and lemon on a tongue coating finish. 

RM 96 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=502174

https://twitter.com/Yquem_Official 

@Yquem_Official 

As a closer with the chocolates and cheeses, I had this aged Vintage Port open at home from the other evening and brought it to share.

Guenoc & Langtry Estate Vineyards and Winery, Guenoc Valley Estate Vintage Port 2000

I served a bottle of Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon at our Pour Boys OTBN tasting dinner back in 2014. 

This is from the Lily Langtree Estate, the hollywood silent screen actress from early last century. That's her period photo that adorns the label. 

The Guenoc Estate Winery & Vineyards are in Lake County, over the hill and on the back of Napa Valley Howell Mountain to the north and east.

We visited the estate back in the early nineties and acquired some Cabernets, one of which I served from a large format bottle at a special event a decade later, exceeding my expectations.

Lillie Langtry, was a famous actress and socialite during the 19th century. She was born on the British Island of Jersey in 1853 and was the only daughter of seven children of the Dean of Jersey. Although she never received a formal education, Lillie went on to have a successful acting career. She starred in many plays in England and the United States. 

In 1888, Lillie purchased 4,200 acres of land in California that would become Langtry Farms where she raised horses and founded the Langtry Farms Winery that is still in operation to this day. She set out to craft the world’s finest claret from the grapes grown at the highest elevation of her farm. During that time, she resided at the Langtry House which is still operating today, available for private events.

According to the rear label, this is from the Guenoc Valley Serpentine Meadow Reserve Estate Vineyard. 

They still offer this label on their website dating back to the 1994 vintage. The 1994 Guenoc Valley Port is made from Petite Sirah with a touch of Petit Verdot added to "lend elegance and subtle tones of blueberry and spice." The 1999 Guenoc Valley Serpentine Meadow Petite Sirah Port is crafted from Petite Sirah grapes.

I was intrigued when I saw this bottle on auction back then and acquired it. It has been sitting in our cellar for more than a decade and I opened it last week on a whim. Once again, it exceeded my expectations and was worthy of pairing with our desserts this evening. 

Wine Enthusiast rated this 94 points. 

I posted a tasting note about this label back in 2011, probably shortly after acquiring a couple bottles.  My note from then: "Great paired with cheese cake, fresh strawberry and chocolate fondue dessert. Full bodied - black and deep purple color - taste of brandy, black berry, black raspberry, deep blueberry, dark chocolate, cassis and black cherry, sweetness a nice complement to the dessert - would be great with a stilton cheese."

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=54302

https://langtryfarms.com/wine/