Enjoying wine - perspectives on wine buying, collecting, tasting, a study in wine marketing & branding; observations, experiences and ruminations of a winegeek & frequent traveler. Sharing so others can 'unwindwine' for greater wine discovery, understanding and appreciation.
Magnificent Dinner at Michelin 3-Star Alinea Kitchen Table in Chicago
When we closed the
business transaction, selling the company and bringing to an end my tenure as
CEO, and the next to latest chapter of my storied career in enterprise software, I reserved the Kitchen
Table at legendary 3 Michelin Star Alinea Restaurant in Chicago for a celebration dinner.
Linda
and I were joined by son Ryan and d-in-law Michelle, daughter Erin,
while husband, son-in-law Johnny was traveling with their two sons to pick up a new car out of state, and son
Alec, while d-in-law Viviana was in Connecticut for another special
family event.
Alinea is the only Michelin 3-Star restaurant in
the midwest and founder, luminary chef Grant Achatz actually has four
(stars) taking into account another star for his second restaurant,
Next.
Achatz'
culinary career started working in his parents' diner restaurant in St.
Clair, Michigan as a teenager before studying at The Culinary Institute
of America in Hyde Park, New York. Following graduation in 1994, Achatz
landed a position at iconic Charlie Trotter's in Chicago, then moved
on to Thomas Keller's highly acclaimed The French Laundry, in
Yountville, Napa Valley, California. There he eventually rose to the
position of sous chef.
Achatz moved to Chicago in 2001 to become
Executive Chef at Mobile four-star Trio in suburban Evanston, earning a
coveted fifth star from Mobil,
becoming one of just 13 restaurants so honored at the time.
Achatz opened Alinea in 2005, which has become universally recognized for its innovative approach to modern cuisine, having been named the Best Restaurant in the World by Elite Traveler, the Best Restaurant in North America by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and the Best Restaurant in the U.S. by Gourmet and Business Insider.
Alinea is one of only 14 restaurants in the U.S. to earn the coveted Michelin 3-Star rating. It has also won James Beard Awards for Outstanding Restaurant in the U.S., Outstanding Service in the U.S., and Outstanding Chef in the U.S.
The
Kitchen Table is Alinea's premier dining experience, so named as it
is adjacent the working kitchen, seating just six, and with its proximity,
actually provides incredible entertainment, dinner and a show, watching
the choreography of the bee-hive of activity of the chef culinary crew.
The Kitchen Table View
Tonight's Kitchen Table Menu
The
other Alinea dining experiences are The Gallery, which
combines "fine dining with experimental moments," and The Salon, which
offers "a multi-course tasting menu," and the most intimate offering.
The three distinct experiences each offer rotating menus that are
preset, and mix art, pop-culture and food. Its
impossible to capture and describe the magnificent experience that is
Alinea. Each of the ten dinner courses is an extravaganza of sensory
overload, with the presentation, the service, the accompanying music, the
accompanying wine pairing, and of course, the food, with its distinctive
presentation and sensational explosion of tastes.
For our special
dinner, we ordered the Alinea Wine Pairing, their top tier selection of
wines matched to each dinner course. I've written often in these pages about
the amplifying impact of properly pairing the right food and wine
thereby accentuating the enjoyment and experience of each. There was no
debate that to optimize the Alinea experience warranted opting for their
premier wine pairing as well.
It was tempting to select wines from their winelist, its thirty-seven pages featuring many of our favorite wines as well as bucket list wines that we've been wanting to try. In the end, experiencing the chef's selection of wine paired to each course was as much a part of the experience as either the wine or the food - not to be missed!
Everything was spectacular - service, food, wine, presentation, ambiance, the pairing, the Alinea experience. A memorable experience not to be missed!
The dinner courses and their associated wines:
Krug "Grande" 170Eme Edition Champagne
Golden Osetra Caviar, Caper, Lemon, Onion, Egg, Brioche
Domaines Ott Chateau Romassan Mourvedre Blend Bandol Provence Rose' 2021
COLLAR Cobia Collar with Mango, Pine, Uni and Candy Cap Tofu - Chateau d'YQuem Sauterne Bordeaux 2019
We then were lead into the kitchen to experience the intricate preparation and consumption of the next course, "Spiral",
featuring Caramel Apple Pie with Pecan and melted Raclette cheese
accompanied with a specially prepared smoked Texas Rye Whiskey Michigan Apple Cider Liquor
Sour.
And,
when we returned to our table, the Alinea Kitchen Table has been
transformed into an elegant dining setting, where upon we were served
the remaining courses.
Squab Potpourri, Pear, Foie Gras, Angre-Doux
Sine Qua Non "Esto No Es Una Salida" Santa Rita Hills Grenache
Then,
once again, the Alinea Kitchen Table was transformed for the final
course. We adjusted our seating to the two sides of the table while the
linens and table centerpieces were replaced with an large acrylic sheet
that became the platform to showcase the preparation and presentation of
the dessert course.
Dessert Wine D'Oliveiras Boal Frasqueira Madera Port 1977 (Bottled 2022)
And finally - the famous Alinea helium filled taffy green apple sugar balloons ...
Ridge Estate Chardonnay Ideally Paired with Chicken Breast stuff with spinach and feta cheese
Linda prepared a hearty chicken breast stuffed with spinach and feta cheese over a bed of asparagus and mashed potatoes. The cheese took over the whole dish for a delicious wintry comfort food entree that begged for a full robust white wine. I pulled from the cellar this recent vintage premium Chardonnay from iconic producer Ridge.
While I might normally select an older vintage to cycle our holdings as part of cellar management, and the pundits write that this should age well for 7-8 years and that this label often benefits from a few years of aging, I was eager to try this label from a lot that I just picked up recently.
Since 1962, Ridge has produced small bottlings of chardonnay that
reflect the cool climate and limestone subsoils of the heralded Monte Bello
Estate, high atop the Santa Cruz Mountains, on the eastern facing slopes, of the Santa Cruz Range that separates San Francisco Bay and Silicon Valley to the east, from the Pacific Coast to the west.
The Santa Cruz range is also known for its alignment along the famous San Andreas fault, which can be easily identified from the air, and runs along the beautiful scenic I280, high above Silicon Valley, between San Jose and San Francisco.
This is especially favored since we used to live up against the mountain, below but near where the vineyard sits, in tony Saratoga (CA) when we were in Silicon Valley long ago, early in my tech career.
From their website, "Ridge produced its first chardonnay
in 1962 from fully-mature vines planted in the late 1940s on the Monte
Bello Estate vineyard. Production never exceeded ten barrels, and Monte
Bello Chardonnay was sold principally at the winery. Several great
vintages, among them the 1973, ‘74, ‘79, and ‘84, showed that the cool
climate and fractured limestone sub-soils were well suited to the
varietal.'
"By 1985, the old vines were producing less then a half-ton per
acre and were taken out. The younger vines, planted in the ‘70s,
provide the majority of grapes today. Initially these newer plantings
were on the “lower” vineyard—not yet farmed as part of the Monte Bello
estate—so the wine was called “Santa Cruz Mountains” and these vines
have long since been included. Since 2009 the wine has been designated
Ridge Estate Chardonnay. In years when differences among lots are
sufficient to warrant a separate bottling, they make a limited amount of
Monte Bello Chardonnay as well."
The Monte Bello Estate vineyard is much heralded and historically renowned, best known perhaps for Ridge's flagship, "Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon", which we've had over the years, but, we've also had the vineyard designated Merlot from there as well, and now this Chardonnay.
Ridge Estate Santa Cruz Mountain (AVA) Monte Bello Vineyard Chardonnay 2020
As is so often the case, we were fortunate enough to enjoy this ideal pairing that amplified the enjoyment of both the food and the wine!
This is 100% Chardonnay sourced solely from the legendary Ridge Monte
Bello Estate vineyard in the Santa Cruz Mountains Appellation (AVA).
It was highly rated receiving a consensus 94 Points from Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, Jeb Dunnuck, JebDunnuck.com and Owen Bargreen, OwenBargreen.com.
Fine Wine Review wrote: "I might mistake it for a Corton-Charlemagne."
Light straw colored, medium bodied, bold, full and round yet impeccably smooth and what Jeb Dunnuck decribes as "brilliantly balanced", elegant, buttery with layer of ash notes that Wine Enthusiast describes as "flinty aroma to the nose, like smoke from chiseled granite", crushed stone that permeates the subtle flavors of peach and apple with hints of toasted spice and what Wine Spectator calls "overtones of salted butterscotch" on an abrupt, crisp, clean finish with nice well behaved acidity.
Hourglass HG III Proprietary Red Blend at RH - Restoration Hardware Rooftop Restaurant in Oak Brook
New Years Day late lunch early dinner dining out, we dined at the stylish trendy RH Rooftop Restaurant located on the third floor of the RH - (Restoration Hardware) at Oak Brook Center, in nearby Oak Brook (IL).
RH is a
spacious 60,000-square-foot design gallery, part residential, part retail furniture store. The dining room is a year-round skylit
garden surrounding a trickling fountains amidst heritage olive trees and
glimmering chandeliers under a glass skylit ceiling.
This has become one of Linda's favorite dine-sites that she loves to frequent when shopping at the adjacent upscale fashionable Oak Brook outdoor mall. While we considered a ladies spot with a girlie menu, I must admit RH exceeded my expectations in every respect - ambiance, food, wine - the totality of the dining experience, and intimate dining site.
The glass enclosed dining room provided a serene setting under the dusk sky.
The dining room is bright and airy yet intimate with the soothing accoustics of trickling water from the large central fountain surrounded by warm full grown olive trees.
The chic restaurant also features a wine bar and broad selection of
classic curated wines from esteemed US and European vintners offering 60
wines, 40 wines by the glass (WBTG).
While limited, the winelist features classic notable upscale producers and selections - sparkling, rose, white and red.
Top rated reds reads like a who's who of top labels including: Caymus Special Selection, Zena Crown Slope, Eola-Amity Hills, Spottswoods St. Helena, Lail Vineyards Blueprint, Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast, Marchesi Antinori Tignanello, Shafer Hillside Select, The Mascot, Napa Valley, La Spinetetta Vignetto Garretti, Barolo, Chateau Rauzan-Segla Margaux Grand Cru Classé, Chateau Mont Reddon Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Penfolds Shiraz, RWT .
The premier top rated whites include: Louis Roederer Cristal Brut and Dom Perignon Champagne, Maison Champy Le Rognet, Corton Grand Cru, Burgundy, Domaine Laroche Chardonnay, Les Blanchots, Chablis Grand Cru, US Chardonnays from Sonoma-Cutrer Les Pierres, Sonoma, Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay, Reserve, Gary Farrell Hallberg Vineyard and Rochioli Russian River Valley.
The winelist is premium selections with but a few budget or moderately priced bottles, yet the BTG are thoughtfully selected with several options such as our feature selections.
Our wine pairings were ideal accentuating the enjoyment of the food as well as the wine.
From the limited, focused carefully selected menu we ordered, we ordered for our afternoon lunch/dinner: To share we enjoyed the Burrata with Roasted Peppers, Della Terra Aged Balsamic, Basil, Charred Sourdough. Linda order for her entree the Arugula with Fennel, Grapes, Sunflower Seeds, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Citrus Vinaigrette topped with the Broiled Salmon with Honey, Black Pepper, Brown Butter and Lemon.
I ordered the Shaved Ribeye on Charred Garlic Bread with Emmentaler
Swiss, Cherry Peppers, Au Jus, and a side of the Yukon Gold Potato Puree
with Chive Butter.
For wine accompaniments, we ordered B-T-G, (by the glass), Chalk Hill,
Sonoma, Russian River Valley Chardonnay, and the Hourglass "HG III" Napa
Valley Proprietary Red Blend.
Hourglass "HGIII" Napa Valley Proprietary Red Blend 2019
This proprietary red blend is from Napa Valley Hourglass, who have been producing ultra premium super high-scoring Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot since their inaugural release in 1997. The estate sits at the northern center of Napa Valley and consists of two
vineyards focused on Bordeaux varietals.
Hourglass wines are crafted by veteran Napa Valley winemaker Tony Biagi who gained notoriety working at some of the Valley's elite wineries including Duckhorn, Paraduxx,
Plumpjack, and Cade, where he was founding Winemaker before joining Hourglass.
Biagi is a
sixth generation Californian whose first memories of wine go back to his
father making small amounts of wine in his garage. He earned a degree in
Fermentation Sciences at U.C. Davis in 1995 before working for the listed well-known estates, then joining Hourglass in 2012.
HG III is
Hourglass' proprietary red blend second label produced exclusively from the Napa
Valley. Biagi has made a name for himself with the critically acclaimed
Hourglass wines, known for elegant tannin structure, rich mouthfeel,
layers of silky textural depth and harmonious balance of richness and
acidity. Biagi says: “I want my wines to be rich, but if that’s all they
are they become one dimensional and monotonous,” he outlines. Writes a leading pundit, "HG III
delivers a big, rich, powerful red blend, but always impeccably
balanced. A real showstopper, even better with a good decant".
The 2019 HG III harmoniously combines 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petite Syrah sourced from the Hourglass Blueline Estate vineyard and a select few
top-of-the-line vineyards.
This is a somewhat unconventional blend, the core trio of varieties all offer
distinctive characteristics yet harmony to the final blend: Merlot leads with finesse
and approachability, Cabernet Sauvignon elevates with structure and
polish, and Petite Syrah grounds the blend with what one pundit calls 'gravitas and bass'.
The 2019 vintage was aged 16 months in a combination of
new and seasoned French oak, contributing to its multilayered complexity
and smooth tannins.
Winemaker Notes: “The 2019
vintage for HGIII is a knockout – an unequivocal example of how this
expansive, rich and deeply textured wine over delivers. Tony’s ingenious
blend, the core trio of varieties all offer distinction and harmony to
the final blend: Merlot leads with finesse and approachability, Cabernet
Sauvignon elevates with structure and polish, and Petite Syrah grounds
the blend with gravitas and bass. With red and black currant forming the
aromatic core, dried herb and fennel are their verdant, savory
counterparts. A ripe juicy frame of dark sour and red cherry mingles
with inky black cassis laced with fine streaks of dark Belgian
chocolate. Undeniably approachable now, and yet with the structure,
density, and complexity for great ageability.”
This was rated 94 Points by Master Sommelier Kevin Vogt, and 92 points
by Jeb Dunnuck.
I enjoyed this so much I went home and went on-line and snatched up all the remaining bottles in stock at Binny's, our Chicagoland wine superstore.
Bright garnet colored with hues of purple, medium full bodied, elegant, polished, full round forward, nicely integrated briary blackberry and ripe plum fruits with notes of mocha dark
chocolate, clove spice, hints of vanilla, and delicate floral, with a
balanced long finish combining slightly chalky
tannins.
Linda prepared hearty Chicken Cacciatore in a zesty sauce of tomatos, mushrooms, onions, herbs of provence and sherry. Cacciatore means “hunter” in Italian, and it is hunters who first ate
this dish. It is thought that the first Chicken Cacciatore was
not made with chicken, but with rabbit or other wild game,
sometime during the Renaissance period, between the 14th and 16th
centuries.
Chicken Cacciatore’s simple but delicious recipe was likely developed
to satisfy the appetites of hunters who may have been on the track of a
larger animal or herd of animals for several days, and who needed a
tasty, filling stew that could easily be cooked outdoors to keep them
going.
This warranted a nice hearty red wine - not too big or complex, but not too small/light, not too fruity, but firm enough to stand up to the sauce. I selected from the cellar this Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon and it proved to be an ideal pairing for maximum enjoyment of both the food and the wine.
Before I write any more about this wine or this food pairing, I found this ..... Amazingly, the last time we tasted and I blogged about this wine was exactly a year ago tonight! Wine karma? In any event, history repeats itself, and tonight's tasting was a recreation of that earlier evening and the experience was consistent with that last year in every respect when I published the following post.
The deep freeze
in Chicago continues and we remain shut in for winter and of course
Covid. Having a deep and broad wine cellar reduces the dread of cabin
fever and makes for enjoyable evenings dipping in to our collection.
Tonight,
Linda created a delicious medley of grilled steak, sweet potatoes and
mushrooms. This was a wonderful pairing that suited this Sonoma County
Cabernet perfectly. As I've written several times recently, an ideal food and wine pairing such as this accentuates the enjoyment of the whole experience, enhancing the wine and the food.
We've
visited or stopped by the Arrowood winery a couple times during visits
to Sonoma, the winery sitting just north of town back off the highway.
We hold a collection of this label dating back to 1991 of which we
acquired a case upon release and still hold just a couple remaining
bottles, along with a half dozen other vintages including this '04.
My
opinion and experience is that the Sonoma County Cabs tend to be
lighter and softer (than Napa's) and therefore a bit more approachable
and less challenging, more suitable to casual sipping and lighter or
less complex food pairing.
This is the craftwork of winemaker
producer Richard Arrowood. Born in San Francisco and raised in Santa
Rosa, he started his winemaking career in 1965
at Korbel Champagne Cellars just north of St Helena. He earned degrees
in organic
chemistry at California State Sacramento and graduate work in enology at
California State, Fresno. He moved from Korbel to United Vintners, then
Sonoma Vineyards.
From 1974 through 1990, he was winemaker at
Chateau St. Jean,
where he developed some of the first vineyard-designate Chardonnay and
Cabernet Sauvignon produced in Sonoma County. His role there grew to be
winemaker and Executive Vice President of Chateau St Jean.
He and
his wife, Alis, founded Arrowood Winery with the 1985 vintage where they
produced small-lot varietals and vineyard
designates. In April 1990, after sixteen years at Chateau St. Jean,
Richard
set out to devote himself full-time to Arrowood where he was
producer/winemaster. He originally planned to produce reserve quality
Chardonnay and Cabernet
Sauvignon only, but his passion for making wine
lead him to explore and develop unusual varietals that he
believed had potential to produce exceptional fruit. The Arrowood
portfolio expanded
to include Merlot, Viognier, Pinot Blanc, Late
Harvest wines, Malbec, Syrah and a few special reserve wines.
Richard
and Alis were successful building the Arrowood brand and portfolio
which they sold to Robert Mondavi in 2000. Richard and Alis stayed on,
but left after Constellation Brands purchased
Mondavi in 2004 and subsequently sold Arrowood in 2005 to the (now
bankrupt) Legacy Estate Group.
Richard continued as winemaster
there until June 2010, when he founded and left to devote his energies full-time to
Amapola Creek Vineyards and Winery. They sold Amapola in 2019 and set out to retire after 54 years in the wine business.
Arrowood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
This release is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (89.9%), Merlot (7.2%), Malbec and (1.6%), Petit Verdot (1.3%), all from Sonoma County.
Winemaker notes: "This 2004 Arrowood Caberent Sauvignon is a lovely, complex wine that
exemplifies our distinctive style. Beginning with exceptional fruit from
several Sonoma County vineyards, we selected and blended small lots of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. Each key component
was aged for nearly two years in French and American oak. To retain
maximum complexity, we chose not to fine or filter this wine, hence a
small amount of harmless sedimentation may occur. Although delicious
now, this rich and complex claret will develop well beyond the next
decade.'
"Our 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon is a complete wine. It is a testament to
both vintage and the vineyards. The growing season opened with a heat
wave in the first half of March triggering an early bloom. The remainder
of the year was awash in warm days, cool nights and morning fog. All in
all, we feel it was one of the finest Cabernet vintages of the last
decade.'
"For vineyards, this Cabernet combines our favorite bench, hillside
and mountain sites (many organically farmed) in Sonoma, Alexander and
Dry Creek Valleys. By blending lots from a variety of sources Richard was
able to capture the character of the vintage and the essence of Sonoma
County Cabernet."
Back in 2016 I wrote about this release, "I have two left in the cellar and I wish I had more. At a dozen years
old, it must be at the apex of its drinking window - it was delicious
and a perfect compliment to the steak and to the anti pasta caprese
salad.'
"We often turn to Sonoma County Cab's for more casual sipping as they are
thought to be a bit lighter and softer than their Napa counterparts.
There was nothing wimpy or second class to this Big Cab."
While the Arrowood winery and vineyards are located in Sonoma Valley
just north of the town of Sonoma, they source the fruit for this label
from three different Sonoma County AVA's - Knights Valley, Alexander Valley and Sonoma Valley. We consider Arrowood to be a benchmark, representing the best of Sonoma Cabernet.
We have visited the Arrowood properties on several of our trips to Sonoma Valley.
This wine represents great value, high QPR as Arrowood seem to have held the price on this label as similar Napa and Sonoma labels have risen by 30-40% over the decade.
At
sixteen years, this was drinking very nicely, probably still at its
apex, not likely to improve any further with aging, but not showing any
signs of diminution whatsoever. The filled level was proper and the cork
was in perfect condition.
Back in 2016 I wrote, Dark blackish garnet color, medium-full bodied, the berry fruit aromas
filled the room on opening, bold expressive black cherry accented by a
layer of leather, mocha and hint of cedar and spice on the long smooth
soft tanning finish.
Tonight
this was dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex yet nicely
integrated and balanced rich elegant dark berry fruits with floral notes
turning to cassis, hints of black tea and oak with smooth soft tannins
and balanced acid on a lingering finish.
Saggi Long Shadows Vintners Collection Sangiovese Red Blend with Angeli's Italian Dinner
We dined with Sean and Michelle and newborn grand-daughter, Lavender at Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. To accompany our Italian cuisine selections, I pulled from the cellar this unique Sangiovese red blend from the notable Long Shadows Vintners Collection which was a perfect pairing thereby amplifying the enjoyment of both the wine and the dinner.
Our visit to Woodinville was part of our Seattle Culinary and Wine Experience. During our visit to Long Shodows we
discovered and acquired this wine. This is a selection of the Long Shadows Vintners
Collection, a portfolio of seven ultra-premium wines showcasing the
viticulture of the Washington State Columbia
Valley growing
region and the artwork and expertise of internationally acclaimed
winemakers who crafted them.
This Saggi label is crafted by the father-son team of Ambrogio and Giovanni Folonari, one of Italy’s
oldest and most prestigious Tuscan wine families from A. & G. Folonari Tenute that produces a
collection of small, ultra-premium wines from the family's numerous
Tuscan estates. The Folonaris teamed with Allen Shoup to produce a wine that
showcases Washington State's terroir with plenty of Italian character through the Long Shadows Vintners
Collection program.
Saggi (meaning "wisdom") is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon,
and Syrah.
Vibrant and lively, this weighty Sangiovese-dominant blend offers
enticing aromas and flavors of red berries and currants with an
appealing hint of nutmeg and sweet spice. An elegant and refined wine,
its bright acidity pops on the palate with expressive red fruit
character that echoes across a long-lasting finish.
The 2016 Saggi is mostly Sangiovese at 60%, but has 29% Cabernet Sauvignon and
11% Syrah.
Bright ruby-colored, medium-full bodied, nicely balanced and polished, black cherry fruits are accented by with notes of spice box,
dried flowers and hints of cedar and vanilla, smooth sweet tannins linger on a clean,
graceful finish.
RM 92 points.
Wine Advocate Jeb Dunnuck gave it 92 points noting, "It's certainly one of the best expressions of
Sangiovese from Washington."
The deep freeze in Chicago continues and we remain shut in for winter and of course Covid. Having a deep and broad wine cellar reduces the dread of cabin fever and makes for enjoyable evenings dipping in to our collection.
Tonight, Linda created a delicious medley of grilled steak, sweet potatoes and mushrooms. This was a wonderful pairing that suited this Sonoma County Cabernet perfectly. As I've written several times recently, an ideal food and wine pairing such as this accentuates the enjoyment of the whole experience, enhancing the wine and the food.
We've visited or stopped by the Arrowood winery a couple times during visits to Sonoma, the winery sitting just north of town back off the highway. We hold a collection of this label dating back to 1991 of which we acquired a case upon release and still hold just a couple remaining bottles, along with a half dozen other vintages including this '04.
My opinion and experience is that the Sonoma County Cabs tend to be lighter and softer (than Napa's) and therefore a bit more approachable and less challenging, more suitable to casual sipping and lighter or less complex food pairing.
This is the craftwork of winemaker producer Richard Arrowood. Born in San Francisco and raised in Santa
Rosa, he started his winemaking career in 1965
at Korbel Champagne Cellars just north of St Helena. He earned degrees in organic
chemistry at California State Sacramento and graduate work in enology at California State, Fresno. He moved from Korbel to United Vintners, then Sonoma Vineyards.
From 1974 through 1990, he was winemaker at Chateau St. Jean,
where he developed some of the first vineyard-designate Chardonnay and
Cabernet Sauvignon produced in Sonoma County. His role there grew to be winemaker and Executive Vice President of Chateau St Jean.
He and his wife, Alis, founded Arrowood Winery with the 1985 vintage where they produced small-lot varietals and vineyard
designates. In April 1990, after sixteen years at Chateau St. Jean, Richard
set out to devote himself full-time to Arrowood where he was producer/winemaster. He originally planned to produce reserve quality Chardonnay and Cabernet
Sauvignon only, but his passion for making wine
lead him to explore and develop unusual varietals that he
believed had potential to produce exceptional fruit. The Arrowood portfolio expanded
to include Merlot, Viognier, Pinot Blanc, Late
Harvest wines, Malbec, Syrah and a few special reserve wines.
Richard and Alis were successful building the Arrowood brand and portfolio which they sold to Robert Mondavi in 2000. Richard and Alis stayed on, but left after Constellation Brands purchased
Mondavi in 2004 and subsequently sold Arrowood in 2005 to the (now
bankrupt) Legacy Estate Group.
Richard continued as winemaster
there until June 2010, when he founded and left to devote his energies full-time to
Amapola Creek Vineyards and Winery. They sold Amapola in 2019 and set out to retire after 54 years in the wine business.
Arrowood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
This release is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (89.9%), Merlot (7.2%), Malbec and (1.6%), Petit Verdot (1.3%), all from Sonoma County.
Winemaker notes: "This 2004 Arrowood Caberent Sauvignon is a lovely, complex wine that
exemplifies our distinctive style. Beginning with exceptional fruit from
several Sonoma County vineyards, we selected and blended small lots of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. Each key component
was aged for nearly two years in French and American oak. To retain
maximum complexity, we chose not to fine or filter this wine, hence a
small amount of harmless sedimentation may occur. Although delicious
now, this rich and complex claret will develop well beyond the next
decade.'
"Our 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon is a complete wine. It is a testament to
both vintage and the vineyards. The growing season opened with a heat
wave in the first half of March triggering an early bloom. The remainder
of the year was awash in warm days, cool nights and morning fog. All in
all, we feel it was one of the finest Cabernet vintages of the last
decade.'
"For vineyards, this Cabernet combines our favorite bench, hillside
and mountain sites (many organically farmed) in Sonoma, Alexander and
Dry Creek Valleys. By blending lots from a variety of sources Richard was
able to capture the character of the vintage and the essence of Sonoma
County Cabernet."
Back in 2016 I wrote about this release, "I have two left in the cellar and I wish I had more. At a dozen years
old, it must be at the apex of its drinking window - it was delicious
and a perfect compliment to the steak and to the anti pasta caprese
salad.'
"We often turn to Sonoma County Cab's for more casual sipping as they are
thought to be a bit lighter and softer than their Napa counterparts.
There was nothing wimpy or second class to this Big Cab."
While the Arrowood winery and vineyards are located in Sonoma Valley
just north of the town of Sonoma, they source the fruit for this label
from three different Sonoma County AVA's - Knights Valley, Alexander Valley and Sonoma Valley. We consider Arrowood to be a benchmark, representing the best of Sonoma Cabernet.
We have visited the Arrowood properties on several of our trips to Sonoma Valley.
This wine represents great value, high QPR as Arrowood seem to have held the price on this label as similar Napa and Sonoma labels have risen by 30-40% over the decade.
At sixteen years, this was drinking very nicely, probably still at its apex, not likely to improve any further with aging, but not showing any signs of diminution whatsoever. The filled level was proper and the cork was in perfect condition.
Back in 2016 I wrote, Dark blackish garnet color, medium-full bodied, the berry fruit aromas
filled the room on opening, bold expressive black cherry accented by a
layer of leather, mocha and hint of cedar and spice on the long smooth
soft tanning finish.
Tonight this was dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex yet nicely integrated and balanced rich elegant dark berry fruits with floral notes turning to cassis, hints of black tea and oak with smooth soft tannins and balanced acid on a lingering finish.
“A Night in Sicily”Covid Lock-in Virtual Wine Dinner Presented by Chicago's Italian Village Restaurants
Italian Village Restaurants in Chicago hosted “A Night in Sicily” presented by Jared Gelband, Italian Village Wine
Director and Chef Jose, and guest host Italian Wine Specialist, Daniele Sbordi, who lead a virtual journey to the
island of Sicily and a tasting of wines from producer Donnafugata
Winery.
A four course dinner was specially prepared for pick-up at the restaurant complete with preparation directions and a wine course selection of three bottles of Donnafugata Sicilian wines.
For the occasion, we were joined by son Sean and daughter-in-law Michelle in person in our dining room, and daughter Erin and son-in-law Johnny and their four children, who attended virtually via zoom from their home. We were joined via zoom with another dozen folks.
To facilitate and optimize the experience, we set up a large screen TV and our computer in the dining room for the occasion.
The dinner:
Antipasta Crostini con Caponata - Rustic Italian Bread / Caponata Topping
Primi Ravioli con Ricotta - Hand made Ravioli / Ricotta and Parmesan Cheese / Pistachio pesto sauce
Secondi Braciole alla Siciliana - Filet Mignon / Proscutto / Provolone / Green Onion / Salsa di Pomodoro
Dolce Italian Cannoli / Italian Biscotti
Vini - The Wine
Donnafugata "Sur Sur" Sicilia DOC Grillo 2019
Donnafugata "Floramundi" Cerasuelo di Vittoria DOCG 2018
Donnafugata "Sul Volcano" Etna Rosso DOC 2017
I wrote in these pages recently about the art and magic of pairing food and wine to magnify the overall experience. Tonight, the masterful pairing of the wines to the food courses by Wine Director Jared and Chef Jose amplified both the food and the wine. As a result, as I wrote Jared in a follow up note, "everything exceeded my expectations, the food, the wine, the pairing, the overall experience".
Donnafugata was established in Sicily in 1983 byGiacomo Rallo, the fourth
generation of a family with over 160 years of experience in quality
wine, along with his wife Gabriella, a pioneer of viticulture in Sicily. Giacomo passed away in 2016, so the company today is run by their children José and Antonio and a team of people focused on excellence.
The name Donnafugata comes from a novel by Tomasi di Lampedusa entitled Il Gattopardo (The Leopard). The name that means “donna in fuga”
(woman in flight) refers to the story of a queen who found refuge
in the part of Sicily where the company’s vineyards are located today.
The adventure tome also inspired the corporate logo, the image of a woman’s
head with windblown hair that dominates the brand and adorns every bottle. All Donnafugata wines' labels and names are inspired by Gabriella Rallo and designed by Stefano Vitale whose original artwork is featured each on the labels of each of the two dozen wines they produce. His works were featured in an exhibition "Art and Wine - Chasing Donnafugata”, presented by
FAI – Fondo Ambiente Italiano in Milan in 2018 in the
prestigious Villa Necchi Campiglio.
Donnafugata produce over forty estate wines meaning they are sourced from the producer owned vineyards that span almost six hundred acres of 45 different varieties of grapes indigenous to Sicily. Total production is near 5 million bottles annually.
Donnafugatta "Sur Sur" is produced from Grillo, an ancient Sicilian grape varietal. The grape name grillo means cricket, for the crickets that are common in the region and said to bring good luck. The name comes from the classical Arabic language
which was once also spoken in Sicily. The label features Stefano Vitale artwork of Gabriella (founder
of Donnafugata, with her husband Giacomo) as a girl in flight, running
barefoot through the flowers and fresh grass.
This is 100% Grillo classified grapes from the Sicilian DOC, according to Italy’s 'denominazione di origine controllata' (DOC) classification system, akin to France's well-known Appellation d’origine controlee (AOC) and America's AVA systems. DOC, means designation of 'controlled origin', it is the second highest quality classification of the Italian system.
There are 329 different DOCs in Italy, across a wide range of red and
white wines across the country, from Prosecco sparkling wines to the Vin Santo dessert wines of Tuscany. Each DOC has its own rules about
permitted grape varieties, maximum harvest yields, alcohol levels, and aging
requirements including use of barrels.
The grapes are from the western tip of Sicily, the Contessa Entellina estate and neighboring areas and in the hilly hinterland between Marsala and Salemi in the Baiata, Alfaraggio, Pioppo district. The region has a distinctive terrior, hilly with altitudes from 200 to 600 meters, loamy sub-alkaline limestone soils, arid with little rainfall, with substantial variance in warm daytime to cool nightime temperatures with Meditteranean breezes, that is ideal for the growing and ripening of Grillo grapes.
Donnafugatta have five hundred acres in eight different sites in the region where they grow both white and red grape varietals.
This label has been produced since 2013 with 4000 cases annual production. It was awarded 91 points, #86 of the Top 100 Wines of 2019 by Wine Enthusiast.
This was a wonderful pairing with the antipasta courses. We cheated and added a starter course of Linda's wonderful lobster tails on a ramukan of buttered croutons. Following was the Italian Village Crostini con Caponata - Rustic Italian Bread / Caponata Topping. Linda improvised with this course and chopped the Caponata into a wonderful tapenade. Both were wonderfully complemented by this wine.
Winemaker notes: "Brilliant straw yellow, on the nose SurSur offers a fresh bouquet with
notes of white fleshed fruit (peach and cantaloupe melon) combined with
scents of wildflowers and mint. A soft palate, the fruity notes return
combined with pleasant freshness."
This was straw colored, light bodied, aromatic with sprites of citrus, tropical fruit, floral, melon and hints of peach, dry with crisp clean acidity. Good QPR in this label.
Donnafugata "Floramundi" Cerasuelo di Vittoria DOCG 2018
This is a blend of grape varietals: Nero D’Avola, King of the Sicilian red grapes, and Frappato,
one of the most ancient native varieties of Sicily, sourced from 88 acres of eight Donnafugatta estate vineyards from the prestigious denomination: Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, in the territory of Acate on the western side of the southern tip of Sicily.
The terroir is gently sloping terrain from 120 to 150 meters with sandy medium tectured limestone soils with warm temperate Mediterranean climate of warm temperate days moderated by sea breezes, and cool nights.
This label is classified DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), the highest quality classification designation for Italian wines. , while the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC), has less strict guidelines. The rules
for DOCG are stricter than DOC, yields must be lower and the wines
must be aged in barrels longer. Also, DOCG requires the wines be submitted for technical analysis and tasted for approval
by a government committee before they can be sold as DOCG wines. Interesting too, DOCG wines even have a numbered, government seal across the neck of the
bottle to prevent counterfeiting.
Floramundi, a refined red, the dialogue between two souls: the one of
Nero D’Avola, King of the Sicilian red grapes, and the one of Frappato,
one of the most ancient native varieties of Sicily.
Like all Donnafuggati labels, Floramundi features distinctive colorful artwork by Stefano Vitale artwork, sponsored by proprietor Gabriella Rallo. This label features the stylistic figure of a woman in a rainbow of symbols, of the tradition of the historic Pupi Siciliani (Sicilian
Puppets).
This is the third vintage release of this label; it was awarded 92 points by James Suckling, and 90 points by Wine Enthusiast.
This was a wonderful complement to the Italian Village Primi Course; Ravioli con Ricotta - Hand made Ravioli / Ricotta and Parmesan Cheese / Pistachio pesto sauce. Linda was the favorite wine, food and pairing of the rest of our group. I preferred the Secondi course and pairing.
Winemaker notes for this release: "Intense ruby color with bright purple reflections; Floramundi offers
intense fruity aromas, among which the notes of black cherry and berries
(blueberry) stand out; the bouquet opens with delicate balsamic nuances
of laurel and characteristic spicy notes of black pepper. The tasting
is supported by freshness and softness that make it juicy and very
pleasant to drink. The tannin is fine and well integrated. Floramundi
2018 expresses the harmonious balance that Cerasuolo di Vittoria can
reach."
Bright Ruby colored, light-medium bodied, bright vibrant cherry and cranberry fruit flavors accented by tangy acidity, dusty rose floral tones and hints of white pepper.
For the main Secondi course, Chef Jose prepared this imaginative Braciole alla Siciliana - Filet Mignon with Proscutto, Provolone and Green Onion in a robust tangy Salsa di Pomodoro. The Chef's directions called for this to be mixed with the accompanying Italian Village signature rosemary potatos.
Linda called an option and served the potatos on the side which was a great move - they were akin to a whole additional course in of themselve and provided another complete wonderful tasting pairing experience.
The Donnafugata Sul Vulcano label is from the Etna Rosso Denomination. It is a Etna Rosso DOC classified wine. It is a blend of Nerello Mascalese, the main red grape variety from the prestigious Etna appellation, with a small percentage of Nerello Cappuccio grape varietal.
The fruit for this label is sourced from Donnafugata 45 acres of estate vineyards in Eastern Sicily, on the north side of the historic volcano of Mt Etna, Europe’s highest active volcano from which it derives its name, between Randazza and Castiglione di Sicilia.
The terroir there is a higher altitude of 750 meters with deep mineral rich volcanic soil, cooler sub-climate with the Sicilian dramatic variations of warm days and cool nights.
This was more my style of wine, darker, more dense concentrated and complex, more like a Nebbiolo or a Bordeaux varietal. Naturally, this style was ideally paired with the hearty beefsteak, cheeses and tangy pomodoro sauce. As noted above, it also paired superbly with the rosemary potatoes.
The art series stylistic label features a goddess-volcano with intense colors, red,
yellows, and iridescent blacks, another design of artist Stefano Vitale.
This is the second vintage release of this label, first released in 2016.
James Suckling and Wine Critics.com both gave this 93 points.
Winemaker notes: "Pale ruby red, Sul Vulcano offers an elegant bouquet with notes of red
fruits (raspberry and cherry) and flowery scents (violet), along with
delicate spicy nuances of cinnamon and nutmeg."
Garnet colored, medium bodied, robust flavors of black raspberry and black cherry with notes of tobacco, hints of graphite, floral violets, hints of cinnamon and nutmeg spices with moderate tannins on the finish.
We supplemented Jared's Italian Village Donnafugata wine flight with a dessert wine from our cellar for the Dolce Course of Italian Cannoli and Italian Biscotti. Linda also served her Pots-au-de-Creme Chocolat dessert.
Château Suduiraut 1er Cru Classe Sauterne 2002 We enjoy sweet unctuous desert
wines with salads, cheese or deserts. This was a nice finisher, a
perfect complement to the final Dolce course.
This is a classic Sauterne, a blend of Semillon (94 %) and Sauvignon Blanc (6 %). Château Suduiraut is considered to be one of the finest Sauternes.
The
history of Château Suduiraut, dates back to the 1600’s. It was
classified as a Premier Cru during the official 1855 wine classification
programme. The French conglomerate AXA Millésimes acquired Suduiraut
in 1992. Golden honey, dark amber colored,
full bodied yet delicate, nicely balanced fruit and floral aromas,
complex roasted and candied notes of apple, vanilla and honey, medium
sweetness and a long smooth silky finish. Not as sweet and unctuous as
some vintages, the fruit is more subdued lacking the apricot nectar and
honey of some vintages. This showed plenty of botrytis, with predominate
notes of smoke, marzipan, almond, ripe apple, and hints of vanilla on
the tongue cloying finish. RM 91 Robert Parker's Wine Advocate rated this wine 90-93 points, Wine Spectator, 90 points.
