Saturday, August 17, 2024

Del Dotto Napa Cab at Bijoux Bistro Sandestin

Del Dotto Napa Cab at Bijoux Bistro Sandestin

For our actual fiftieth anniversary, we had a getaway week to our Destiny East Cove vacation rentalin Destin, FL, and dined at Bijoux French Bistro restaurant in nearby Miramar Beach, Sandestin. 


Pictured above at earlier celebration, and, at the right,  the anniversary couple, not at elegant dinner, but on our pickleball courts at Destiny East, earlier in the day. 

Bijoux has been acclaimed for being the "Most Romantic Restaurant" as well as "Restaurant of the Year” and “Best French Restaurant on the Emerald Coast", 

Their wine list has been recognized by Wine Spectator Magazine with their Award of Excellence over the last decade. 

From the Bijoux Award Winning wine list we selected a producer and label we know well, Del Dotto Cave Napa Valley Cabernet, which was an ideal pairing with our filet of beef entrees. 

As a starter, I ordered the Lobster Spring Roll, Tempura Fried Maine Lobster Tail, with Green Tea Soba Noodle Slaw, Spicy Thai Peanut Sauce, and Wasabi Aioli.

We both ordered the “Black Skillet” Filet Mignon with Buttermilk Gruyere Mashed Potatoes, Bacon Braised Greens, Roasted Garlic Herb Butter and Demi-Glace sauce. 

Note - I ordered my filet of beef my customary “Pittsburgh Style” - charred with a hot pink center, and it was prepared perfectly!  

Del Dotto Caves Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 

While the wine list offered several labels from several of our favorite producers, we chose this producer since we’ve had many memorable visits to the Del Dotto estate and wineries over the years. 

We've been fans of Del Dotto Vineyards and their Estate wines since the early nineties dating back to their inaugural release in 1993. We still hold a vertical collection more than two decades of vintages of their Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon dating back to those earliest vintages. We visited and featured Del Dotto during several of our Napa Valley Wine Experiences in 1998 through 2008, then again in 2017 and 2019.

We wrote about Del Dotto Family Vineyards and Wineries extensively in our feature of our Del Dotto Napa Valley Cave Tour Barrel Tasting during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2017. 

Del Dotto is one of the largest holdings in our cellar collection, but we’ve not had this vintage selection of this label before so it was a new experience to celebrate the festive occasion. 

Even though it says, Cabernet Sauvignon, we chose this particular label as it is actually a Bordeaux Blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot,  3% Petit Verdot, - ideal for pairing with our filets of beef. 

Note - This label is not to be confused with their “Cave Blend”, which is artistically identical to this label, but is a completely different wine. 

Producer’s Tasting Notes:

The Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is our classic blend showcasing a conglomerate of vineyards and Bordeaux varietals. This is the painter's palette of Napa's finest appellations. With fruit from the hillsides and valley floor, this is about 80% Cabernet Sauvignon with a splash of Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. For an everyday Cabernet, this is the perfect bottle. The bouquet is refined with both floral notes, cedar shavings, milk chocolate and red berries. The mouthfeel is medium bodied and supremely balanced with crushed cherries, vanilla cream and brownie crumbles. The finish is soft and lengthy creating a perfect complement to many foods or by itself with a great movie or book!

Dark ruby garnet colored, medium to full bodied, complex, full round, smooth and polished sweet ripe dark berry fruits accented by spice and mocha chocolate, hints of oak, black tea and cedar with a smooth soft tannin lingering finish. 

RM 91 points. 

Saturday, August 10, 2024

Gala Family Anniversary Celebration Dinner at Uptown Cafe, Bloomington, IN

Gala Family Anniversary Celebration Dinner at Uptown Cafe, Bloomington, IN

For the fiftieth anniversary of our college graduation and marriage, we gathered the entire family back at our Alma Mater, Indiana University in Bloomington (IN) for a gala celebration. 

We rented a motor coach and took the kids and grandkids on the Rick & Linda Memories Campus Tour of our beloved school and what is arguably one of the prettiest college campuses anywhere. 

Readers of these pages know we’re into family, friends, food and wine, and this post exemplifies that and as such is amplified by the integration of it all in all respects! 

We arranged for a photographer to capture some special moments of us, the entire family, and each of the kids and their families. 

Here we are all gathered together on the IU campus Jordan River walk.

Saturday evening, we hosted a special dinner at Uptown Cafe that included some special memorable wines commemorating our graduation and marriage vintage year, and the birthyear vintages of our oldest kids, and the next generation first grandchild. 

The next generation … 

And the next generation … 

We were also joined by Sister Dr Pat and Rodger, and fellow Pour Boy wine buddy Dr Dan and Linda. 

We dined at the trendy upscale Uptown Cafe, just off the courthouse square in Bloomington, IN. 

Opened In 1976, by Chef Michael Cassady at the age of 26, as a 30-seat café that could only be described as "dineresque," it evolved to the current landmark Uptown Cafe which since 1999, has been a family business, with wife, Crystal and their six sons who each have contributed at one time or another.

Inspired by Chef Paul Prudhomme, Uptown offers a variety of food featuring hearty, regional cooking styles with Louisiana New Orleans Cajun flair. 

Uptown delivered a wonderful wine and dining experience with impeccable service from Dina and wine director Sommelier Vivi.

The private back room was perfect for our gathering for the adults and the eleven grandkids. We loved the atmosphere with its stylish warm cosmopolitan vibe of the bar and dining rooms decorated with warm woods and the brightly colored stylish soulful artwork of Wayne Mann paintings, a local Bloomington artist musician with a New Orlean’s flair. 




More Uptown Cafe gallery Wayne Mann photo’s at bottom of this post. 

We planned the dinner well in advance, ahead of time, selecting the menu, starters and beverage options. We made arrangements to have some special wines available to commemorate the special occasion. 

The dinner was prepared under the direction of Chef Adam Noffsinger, who coincidentally is the son of one of Linda’s sorority pledge sisters. They had discussed our preparations for the dinner when they made the connection. 

Adam returned to Bloomington, IN after an impressive extensive career in culinary studies and work experience. After earning a degree in Hospitality Management at Purdue University, he studied Culinary Arts and Chef Training at the CIA - Culinary Institute of America, in Hyde Park, NY. From there he spent time at legendary Three Michelin Star Restaurant Daniel in New York, as Sous Chef at Park Hyatt Chicago, Chef de Cuisnie at Grand Hyatt in Tokyo and Alexander Steakhouse in San Francisco.

Alec, Adam and the author

Highlights of the entree selections were

- Grilled New York Strip served with Mashed Potatoes, 
- Gorgonzola-encrusted Filet Mignon with Port-Shallot Demi Glace served with Mashed Potatoes,
- Blackened Tuna with a Sweet Habanero Sauce, served with Basmati Rice
- Uptown Pot Roast, served with Mashed Potatoes
- Polenta Marinara



On the tour bus, and then at dinner, we had from magnum of vintage Champagne from first grandchild, Lucy’s birth year. 

Canard Duchene ‘V’ Champagne 2010

Charles Heidseick Brut Reserve NV


Canard Duchene ‘V’ Champagne 2010

We often have fun with the ‘V’ label from Venge Vineyards with our dauther-in-law, Vivianna. This ‘V’ label is named for Victor Canard, who founded the Maison Canard-Duchêne in 1868. This vintage release marks Canard-Duchêne’s 150th anniversary. In commemoration of the special year, from a special vintage harvest, Laurent Fédou, cellar master of the House writes of this release, “Selected from the premier quality and character of several plots of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from an exceptional terroir ‘V’ (is) an embodiment of the House’s history and Laurent Fédou’s savoir-faire, was born.”

Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: 

Nose: slightly toasted, and upon aeration, pastry, baked lemon, and white floral notes.
Eye: straw gold, glossy with a ribbon of delicate and homogeneous bubbles.
Palate: an initial fresh and zesty mouthfeel. The finish is long, persistent and aromatic.

A word from our Cellar Master, Laurent Fédou: “The harvest began on September 13 for the earliest crus, the weather was dry and sunny. The terroirs of Ambonnay, Aÿ and Rilly reveal their delicacy and intensity, complemented by subtle Pinot from the Côte des Bar. The elegance and freshness of the Chouilly Chardonnay invigorate the Pinot.”


https://www.canard-duchene.fr/en/

At dinner, we supplemented this with a NV Reserve Brut from Charles Heidseick, Reims, Champagne France.

We then had a Red Wine Flight with some select special vintage wines - 

Chappellet Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1974
Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1981
Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1982
Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 50th Anniversary Edition 


Chappellet Pritchard Hill Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1974

This was served from a Magnum, similar to one that we acquired from the Library Collection at the Winery during out visit there back in 2009. 

There was amazing life and vibrancy still left in this fifty old Napa Cab! Who would imagine, or expect a fifty year old Napa Cabernet to still be consumable? While the label was fully intact, showing character with the aged glue marks, the foil, and most importantly, the fill level and cork were still in ideal condition, albeit the cork was understandably a bit soft. 

In 2017 this was rated 95 points by pundit Art Gilman, and a year later Wine Advocate rated it 94 points! 

John Gilman - wrote  “The 1974 Chappellet Cabernet included 10% Merlot in the blend, which was rather a new approach at this point in time in Napa Valley. The wine was released in August of 1977 for $8.00 a bottle! This most recent bottle was one of the finest of our two tastings of the 1974s, with depth, breed and complexity to burn. The nose offers up a superb blend of cassis, dark berries, sale leather, cigar ash, dark soil tones a nice touch of meatiness and beautiful spice tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full and beautifully-balanced, with a rock solid core superb length and grip and still a bit of tannin on the very long, complex and vibrant finish. This outclassed wines such as Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace and Volcanic Hill in the flight it was positioned in and really is one of the absolute superstars of the 1974 vintage. (9/2017) 

Wine Advocate captured the essence of this wine well in their review - “The 1974 Chappellet Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is pale brick in color and hits the dance floor with a gregarious baked cherries, dark chocolate and Ceylon tea nose with touches of allspice, Sichuan pepper and dusty earth. The palate is medium to full-bodied and packed with rich, decadent fruit, supported by ripe, plush tannins and finishing very long with the spice layers coming through. (LPB) (5/2018)”

Pale brick in color, medium to full bodied, dark berry fruits with notes of leather, dusty earth, smoky ash, and tones of spice and tea tones with subtle tannins on a long lingering finish. 

RM 90 points,

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?734537


Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1981 and 1982

This is one of our favorite labels, which we served at the kid’s weddings from large format bottles. We still hold nearly a score of vintages dating back to and including each of their birth year vintages, ‘81, ‘82, ‘85 and ‘90. 

Our collection of, and serving those big bottles for special occasions was the impetus of our cellar collection being featured in Wine Spectator Magazine in the Collector section back in June of 2001. 

Our affinity and enthusiasm for this producer was a reason they were gracious to host us for Our visit to the Château Ducru Beaucaillou estate  for a  private tour and tasting at the Chateau in St Julien during our Bordeaux trip in 2019. 

Once again, there was amazing life and vibrancy left in these two aged vintage releases, especially surprising for the 1981 release! Both capsules, corks and fill levels were ideal for their age. 

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1981

While the 1981 vintage was supposed to be an ‘off-vintage’, its lackluster reviews and ratings were amplified in large part, overshadowed due to the stellar 1982 vintage. Like so many similarly situated back to back releases, this showed as well as the 1982, another wonderful, pleasant surprise of the evening from these aged vintage wines. 

The 1981 vintage experienced ideal hot dry weather through the year until September when occasional light rains fells up until harvest in October, which no doubt detracted from what some say might have been a vintage to rival the standard bearer vintage of the century in 1961.

Typical of the estate, this is a classic Left Bank Bordeaux Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc. 

This vintage release was rated 94 points by John Gilman in 2016 when he wrote, “As I have written in the past, the 1981 vintage at Ducru-Beaucaillou is the great, sleeper vintage here in the decade of the 1980s and this is one of the top wines produced on the Gironde in ’81. The nose wafts from the glass in a youthful blend of sweet dark berries, cassis, cigar wrapper, a hint of the chipotles to come with further bottle age, a beautiful base of gravel, gentle fresh herb nuances and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and beautifully balanced, with a great core of fruit, moderate, seamless tannins and outstanding length and grip on the focused and complex finish. There is absolutely nothing 'off vintage' about the superb 1981 Ducru.” (8/2016) 

Jancis Robinson wrote about it in 2014 and wrote, “Pale, light but fresh and vital. Super clean and lively though maybe a bit too light to serve with anything substantial. Warm, complex nose but bone dry on the end. Racy. Delicate. Classic.” (6/2014) 

Robert Parker of Wine Advocate wrote about it back in 2002, “Consistently one of the most successful wines of this vintage, this mid-weight Ducru-Beaucaillou is showing some pink and amber at the edge. The wine has an attractive nose of wet stones, sweet currant and mulberry fruit intermixed with a hint of spice and earth. The wine has medium body, light tannin, and an easygoing finish.” (RP)  (12/2002) 

And James Suckling of Wine Spectator wrote about it back in 1994, “A wonderful balance of rich fruit and silky tannins, with plum, vanilla and light tar character. Full-bodied and tannic yet so well integrated; excellent harmony.” (JS) (10/1994)

The foil, label and most importantly the fill level and the cork were all ideal, in nearly perfect condition for their age. This cork was moist and dark from slight saturation but completely intact. 

This was dark garnet colored, medium bodied, very expressive floral notes throughout that linger long beyond tasting; initial slight dark cherry astringency gave way to black berry fruits, hints of cinnamon spice, leather, tea and violets lingering on a soft smooth polished tannin finish. 

Consistent with my earlier tastings back in 2012 and 2010 when I gave it 89 points  … 

Medium bodied, classic left bank Bordeaux bouquet of floral and perfume with that elegant and well integrated classic earthy leather that gives way to berry, black cherry, a hint of anise, vanilla, plum and a lengthy finish. Breaking out a 1981 Bordeaux, Erin's birth-year wine as we celebrate news and all being together. Still life left in this mature St Julien, Bordeaux, but need to be mindful of last two bottles and large format dbl magnum remaining.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=22740

Château Ducru Beaucaillou St Julien Bordeaux 1982

I remember after acquiring this Super Second producer label for Erin’s birth year vintage in 1981, it was followed by the magnificent highly rated 1982 vintage and prices escalated such that instead of buying a large format 5l Jeroboan or 6l Imperial, I procured a 3ltr double magnum instead, for even more money. I recall paying $192 for standard 750 bottles later in the decade, which was an extraordinary, exorbinant price at the time, the most I had paid for wines in that day. Notably, I was not able to obtain (afford) or justify the prices for  the 100 point Las Cases or Mouton Rothschild in that vintage. (I later acquired the 1982 Mouton for a bargain price of $144 - a two decades later, sold it at auction for more the $1000).

The 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou, was awarded 97 points by Jeb Dunnuck, John Gilman, and Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate as late as 2020, and 95 points by Decanter and 93 points by James Suckling. 

Jeb Dunnuck wrote, “The finest bottle I’ve had of this wine (which came from the estate), the 1982 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou continues to drink brilliantly and is a magical Saint-Julien. Still healthy ruby hued with a mature yet insanely complex bouquet of sweet red and black fruits, cedary herbs, graphite, tobacco, and forest floor, it’s powerful yet seamless on the palate, with resolved tannins, no hard edges, and a fabulous finish. This is mature Bordeaux in all its glory.  (2/2020) 

And, John Gilman was similarly magnanimous in applauding this release, “The 1982 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou remains one of the very finest wines of the vintage on the Left Bank and it is just now starting to blossom properly and hit on all cylinders. The bouquet is pure and displays First Growth depth and complexity, soaring from the glass in a fine constellation of sweet cassis and dark berries, a very complex base of gravelly soil tones, Cuban cigar wrapper, gentle smokiness and a deftly turned base of smoky new oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and sappy at the core, with stellar focus and balance, still a touch of ripe tannin perking up the backend and a very, very long, refined and complex finish. This is a great, great vintage of Ducru that may one day rival the near perfection of the 1961.  (1/2020) 

The recent 97 points Wine Advocate review from 2020: 'The harvest lasted 16 days from the 16th September,' proprietor Bruno Borie mentioned about the 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou. Medium brick colored, it comes galloping out of the glass with bold, expressive notes of Black Forest cake, preserved plums and mincemeat pie with hints of cigar box, star anise, eucalyptus and espresso plus wafts of roasted nuts and iron ore. Medium to full-bodied, generous and opulent, the palate has beautifully ripe, fine-grained tannins and tons of youthful fruit, finishing with epically long-lasting layers of preserved black fruits and exotic spices.” (LPB)  (8/2020) 

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gave it 96 points and wrote: "Medium to full-bodied and beautifully pure with sweet tannins, this wine has aged more slowly than I initially expected. It is the finest Ducru Beaucaillou produced after the 1961 and before the 2003." (6/2009) 

William Kelley of Wine Advocate also gave it 96 points in 2022: "From my cellar, the 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou is one of the most youthful of the Médoc crus classés today. Unwinding in the decanter and glass with a rich bouquet of blackcurrants, licorice, cigar wrapper and loamy soil, it's full-bodied, fleshy and muscular, with a broad attack that segues into a deep core of fruit framed by ripe, powdery tannins and succulent acids. It's an unusually big-boned rendition of this elegant-styled wine, but it's no less compelling for that." (12/2022)

Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 50th Anniversary Edition 2022

We couldn’t resist serving up the Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet latest release, their 50th Anniversary label bottling. They starting the Anniversary year branding on the Foil and the year prominently displayed on the label ten years ago for their 40th Anniversary edition, according to our cellar holdings and records, leading up this 50th. 

Of course, as their anniversary year (according to the release date on the vintage bottles), aligned with our college graduation and wedding anniversary year, we couldn’t resist acquiring these bottles and keeping them in our cellar collection.

Our estate visit and tasting at Caymus was one of the highlights of our Napa Wine Experience in 2019.

Indeed, Caymus is a crowd please, a well known iconic benchmark California wine for those who like their reds big, bold, silky and smooth, with decadence and full-bodied flavor. 

Equally notable, Caymus typically provides early gratification, ready to drink upon or soon after release. Yet, it also ages well, certainly for a decade or more. I still recall memorable bottles from 1994 and 1996 that we held and enjoyed from our cellar a dozen plus years later. It’s typically said to be best served at between 5-10 years. 

What is perhaps most notable about Caymus, is that they consistently deliver all this in large quantities with large production, sourced from estate vineyards as well as a large collection of contract grower sources from across the region. As such, Caymus is not estate bottled, or even appellation specific, rather, it is Napa Valley designated, but nothing more (granular). . 

 Winemaker Notes - “Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (50th Anniversary) greets the palate with an opulent bouquet of dark fruits, prominently featuring blackcurrant, blackberry, and ripe cherry, intertwined with subtle notes of cocoa and espresso. This Napa Valley gem exudes elegance with a full-bodied texture, offering velvety tannins that are both supple and structured. Hints of vanilla, cedar, and sweet tobacco emerge as the wine breathes, complemented by a whisper of baking spices. The finish is long and luxurious, leaving a lingering impression of dark chocolate and a touch of mineral freshness. Perfectly balanced, this celebratory vintage showcases the quintessential richness and depth characteristic of Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon, making it a standout in their esteemed lineup.”

This year’s Caymus was especially ripe, big, bold, forward and expressive, almost overtly so, even moreso than my preference or liking, a crowd pleaser, none-the-less. 

This was ideally paired with the Gorgonzola laced Filets of Beef but would’ve been too obtuse for casual sipping. 

RM 91 points. 


After dinner with a medley of desserts, we had a pair of Ports - a Madeira and a Tawney


Taylor Fladgage 20 Year Tawney Port

Port is one of the great classic wines of the world. Produced in the Douro Valley of Portugal, a UNESCO cultural site for its historical significance, port, along with Champagne, is the ultimate celebration wine. 

Taylor Fladgate is one of the most highly respected producers of aged tawny Port wines. Their 20 Year Old tawney is purported to be the most popular 20 Year Old Aged Tawny Port in the United States.

Taylor Fladgate blends its magnificent 20 year old tawny Ports from its extensive reserves of old cask aged Ports matured in the firm’s cool historic cellars (known as ‘lodges’) in Oporto on Portugal’s Atlantic coast.

The 20 Year Old Tawny Port is fully matured in seasoned oak casks each holding about 630 litres of wine. Over the many years of ageing, the Port wine gradually takes on its characteristic amber ‘tawny’ colour, slowly developing complex mellow flavours and the smooth luscious palate which are the hallmarks of this style of port. In the 20 Year Old tawny, the fruit has mellowed further than in the 10 Year Old, and the spicy, nutty aromas of ageing are more powerful and intense.

This label was awarded 95 points by James Suckling, 94 points by Wine & Spirits, and 93 points by Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator.

James Suckling wrote, “The aromas to this beautiful tawny port are saturated with burnt orange peel, caramel, candied fruit and hints of honey-coated nuts. Full-bodied, very fruity and dense with intense nut and mahogany flavors. Hints of sultanas, chocolate and coffee. Extremely creamy, long and flavorful. Delicious all the way. Better served slightly chilled. (6/2019)”

Wine & Spirits - “A complex and satisfying Tawny, this sits on the cusp of maturity with freshness continuing to infuse its deepening flavors. That freshness arrives in bold scents of orange zest and juicy citrus flavors, while the maturity mellows those flavors into layers of Marcona almond, date and sweet oak-smoke notes. It finishes with a hint of schist in the tannins. For fruit and cheese at the end of the meal. (12/2016) “

Wine Advocate- Robert Parker wrote, back in 1995: "It is my opinion that Taylor's tawny ports are the best of their type. When tasted against other tawnys, they all exhibit more aromatic personalities, greater fruit and ripeness, and a wonderful sweetness and length. Although I find the Thirty-Year-Old Tawny admirable, I prefer the richer, more vibrant Twenty-Year-Old Tawny."

Wine Advocate notes: “On first taste, this was simply Taylor: big, concentrated and serious. Simply filling the mouth on first taste, this shows fine complexity for its age and it does everything else rather brilliantly. Succulent and inviting, it finishes with waves of concentrated flavors. The fruit remains lifted and and it has a bright, transparent feel. It is hard to resist, often seeming like a bit of an overachiever. (MS) (12/2015) “

Producer’s Tasting Notes: “Intense amber tawny colour. Opulent and voluptuous nose of complex spicy, jammy and nutty aromas, hints of orange flower and a fine oakiness coming from the long period of aging in cask. The palate is full of very rich and concentrated flavour and has a long mellow finish.”

Complex and elegant, full, rich, deep, intense long spicy flavors of wild berries, fig, dried apricot and mango with deep nutty notes, spice, caramel, chocolate, and melange of dried fruits. 

https://www.taylor.pt/us/port-wine/20-year-old-tawny


Henriques & Henriques Sercial 10 Years Old Madeira

Henriqes & Henriques 10-Year Old Sercial is made from 100% Sercial varietal from Madiera, aged for at least ten years in the traditional canteiro method, the process of aging the wines in naturally heated storage in the cellars.

Since the 1500’s the archipelago of Madeira profited from its position in shipping lanes, 550 miles off the coast of Morocco, when ships would pick up food and wine before the trade winds blew their ships west to the New World. Port wine was a key provision as it would age in its casks in the holds of the ships and survive the long journey at sea. 

Madeira wines traveled to the new world and were a favorite of our Founding Fathers, especially Ben Franklin, George Washington, Thomas Jefferson and James Madison, Madeira was in fact America’s most popular wine for more than 200 years, from 1640-1850.

Madeira is a small island, only 36 by 24 miles with a mere 1176 acres, making it one of the smaller vineyards for appellation wine in the world. Island viticulture remains primitive with some 1500-1700 growers on the island, the average vineyard is less than 1⁄2 an acre situated on a homeowner’s property.

The historic house of Henriques & Henriques is synonymous with the history of Madeira itself. Legend has it that Infante Dom Henriques planted the island’s first vines in 1425. These vines gave fruit to one of the “first families of Madeira”. Henriques’ descendant and successor João Joaquim Gonçalves Henriques founded the firm in 1850 as a partidista, a trader or stockholder of wine who buys stocks and/or makes wines in order to mature and sell to shippers or other traders., supplying wine to other merchants from extensive Henriques vineyard holdings while continuing to amass significant stocks of old wines in the family cellars.

In 1925, Henriques & Henriques pioneered the practice of bottling and exporting Madeira produced entirely from their own vineyards. Today, Henriques & Henriques is led by CEO and winemaker Humberto Jardim, one of Madeira’s great visionaries and ambassadors. The firm continues to source some of its needs from its own vineyards, most notably from a terraced, 10-hectare vineyard at Quinta Grande—the single largest on island, replanted in 1995.

Madeira wines are governed by the Madeira DOC which designates the fortified and heated-to-oxidation wines of the island, regulating the grapes, minimum age, and residual sugars of each category. While the Madeira laws give producers plenty of leeway in terms of blending and age statements, Henriques & Henriques’ blending approach is to produce true minimum age statements and only monovarietal wines.

Sercial is the palest and driest of the classical Madeira varieties, known as ‘Esgano Cão’, ‘dog strangler’ on the Portuguese mainland, due to its tongue-puckering acidity in its youth. Sercial is racy and high-toned, its sweetness balanced by a tang of acidity. Pungent with dried orange, almonds and saline spices in youth, Sercial mellows in maturity.

Reseller’s Tasting Notes - “Energetic and appealing, the H&H Sercial 10-Year is the firm, polished style of the house: full, deep and suave, with the balance and concentration for which H&H is known. Well-calibrated acidity, mineral, saline and wood elements from the bold savor of dried apricot, lemon zest and spiced almond in route to a long, tapered finish.”

Producer's Notes:  “Of amber medium color, this is a wine with a lightly smoked aroma with nuts, apricots and vanilla. Dry on the palate with slight acidity and nutty and woody flavor. A complex wine with fresh acidity and an extraordinarily long finish.”


More of and the story behind Uptown Cafe Wayne Mann’s art collection … from YouTube … 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CaqYoIsc8t4

https://www.the-uptown.com/





  

Saturday, August 3, 2024

Italian wine duo for baked Lasagna dinner

Italian wine duo for baked Lasagna dinner

We were invited to neighbors Richard and Adessa’s for dinner of baked lasagna, salad and garlic bread. We took a cheese plate of artisan cheeses with fresh pear and from our cellar a duo of Italian wines, a white and a red.

I wrote recently about a red wine we acquired from the WSJ - Wall Street Journal wine club. This was the other wine included in that offer which I was eager to try. 

It’s always caveat emptor when sampling wines from one of these sources. Both of these labels exceeded our expectations offering wonderful wines at tremendous QPR - Quality Price Ratio value. 

With the cheese and fruit starter course we enjoyed a traditional Italian Piedmont Moscato - perfect for a hot summer evening. 

Albino Rocca Rosso di Rocca Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2021

This was a perfect pairing with the delicious baked lasagna - amplifying the enjoyment of both the food and the wine!

This is from the Albino Rocca Barbaresco vineyards and winery family owned and operated over four generations dating back to the 1940's, when Giacomo Rocca began bottling wine in demijohns. In the 1960's, his son, the proprietors’ grandfather, Albino, expanded the vineyard holdings, eventually operating by his son Angelo Rocca, father of the current generation.

The family has vines in some of the most prestigious Crus of Barbaresco: Ronchi, Ovello, Montersino and Cottà. Albino Rocco produce a dozen labels all sourced from their four estate vineyards located in the most noble areas of production of Barbaresco DOCG, which consist of Nebbiolo and also include Barbera, Dolcetto, Cortese, Chardonnay and Moscato.

They strive to produce the highest quality wines that express the characteristics, purity and elegance that are so recognizably linked with the terrior of their estate.

While their winemaking activities started in the 1940’s, they had previous experience in viticulture starting from the nineteenth century. The family’s vineyard area is almost 50 acres, located in three out of the four productive communes; Barbaresco, Neive, and San Rocco Seno d’Elvio (Alba) as well as various cultivated vines: primarily Nebbiolo, then Barbera, Dolcetto, Cortese, Moscato, and Chardonnay.

This label is sourced from a vineyard in Magliano Alfieri, a municipality on the left side of the river Tanaro, which gave birth to this new version of Nebbiolo, acquired by the family in 2016, with current production wines planted between 1967 and 2002. 

Nebbiolo is the native varietal synonymous with and originated in Piedmont in Italy, where it remains the region's most important red grape. Its name comes from the Italian word nebbia, which means fog, a feature of the hills where the grape traditionally grows. Nebbiolo is thick-skinned, early-budding and late-ripening; it needs long periods of sunshine to ripen fully and is often planted on south- or southwest-facing hillsides for maximum exposure. The best examples come from calcareous marl vineyards, with some planted in sandy soils.

The result was a highly fragrant red wine, with young fruit and flower aromas, fresh flavors that are ready to enjoy.

This is a blend of  Nebbiolo (97%) augmented with a slight bit of Cabernet Franc (3%) which adds some color, structure and flavors of spice. 

Average annual production is about 9000 bottles.

Bright ruby red colored, light-medium bodied, vibrant aromas and flavors of juicy ripe red berry, cherry and pomegranate fruits with floral and subtle earth tones, balanced by vibrant acidity and ultra-fine tannins, with a refreshing lingering finish.

RM 89 points.

Friday, August 2, 2024

Summer dinner on the patio at Chez Joel

Summer dinner on the patio at Chez Joel Bistro, Chicago, with special vintage birth year BYOB wine

Going back more than a decade it’s been a tradition of summer to have dinner on the patio at Chez Joel Bistro in Little Italy, Chicago

We dined with Son Sean and his family, MIchelle and their two daughters, our grand-daughters for whom we babysit for several days each week, including the last couple of weeks.
 

We ordered several starters before dinner - our usual Pate’, the Escargot and tonight’s special Cerviche

Pâté de deux Sortes - Duck Liver Pâté with Traditional Garnish & Toast Points

Escargots A La Bourguignon - French Snails with Garlic Butter, Pernod & Herbed Breadcrumbs

For our dinner entrees, Linda had one of the daily specials, Pan Seared Alaskan Halibut with bok choy, corn/mango salsa and pomme puree’.

Sean and I both ordered from the menu the regular Duck entree -  

Magret et Confit de Canard, Sauce à L’orange - Seared Duck Breast & Leg Confit, Wild Mushrooms, Red Cabbage, Beets, Poached Pear, Sweet Potato Puff 


Michelle ordered the Rack of Lamb chops served with pomme’ purée. 


For a special wine with dinner, I pulled from the cellar an aged vintage wine commemorating Sean’s birth year that we took BYOB.

Cos d’Estournel St. Estephe Bordeaux 1985

For a special wine with dinner, I pulled from the cellar an aged vintage wine commemorating Sean’s birth year that we took BYOB.

Chateau Cos d'Estournel is a Grand Cru vineyard located on the road from Pauillac as you enter the St. Estephe appellation. Its oriental facade is adorned with three pagoda turrets.


The estate is situated in the very south of Saint-Estèphe, just north of Pauillac's Lafite Rothschild where the south-facing vineyard slopes gently down to the Jalle du Breuil stream which separates it from the first growth Chateau Lafite Rothschild. 

We visited the iconic Chateau Cos d'Estournel with oriental facade adorned with three pagoda turrets and the Grand Cru vineyards in St. Estephe during our visit to Bordeaux in 2019. 

Cos d’Estournel St. Estephe Bordeaux 1985

In old Gascon, "cos" means "hill of pebbles", and the vineyard does consist of deep Quaternary gravels and clay on limestone bedrock. 

The Chateau Cos d'Estournel estate covers 170 acres separated from Chateau Lafite Rothschild on the southern edge, by the stream between St. Estephe and Pauillac. The gravelly soil, over a flint, limestone and silicate subsoil low in nitrogen, has eroded over centuries to form steep ridges which perfectly drain the vineyards. 

The vineyards are planted 60 percent in Cabernet Sauvignon vines, 2 percent of Cabernet Franc, and 38 percent in Merlot. Naturally, the percentage of Cabernet or Merlot in the composition of each vintage depends on the climate which favors one grape variety or the other.

In the 1855 Classification, it was classified as a second growth and remains one of the most prominent and sought-after of all Bordeaux wines. Historically, the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant grand vin has had a high percentage of Merlot compared with other Médoc growths, although this has lessened in recent years. 

Cos d'Estournel is known to be dark, brooding and tannic when young, developing complexity and intensity with time.

1985 Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe

This release was awarded a concensus 93 points by Wine Advocate, Vinous and Wine Spectator. 

Still holding its own at forty years shows the age worthiness of this wine in top vintages and the 1985 from cask could have been a lighter version of the 1982 and 1953 vintages. We’ve held this since acquiring it on release back in the eighties. The foil, label and importantly the cork and fill level were all acceptable for their age. The cork was partly saturated and a bit soft but was able to be extracted by the waiter with his traditional cork screw. 

Showing its age, the color was garnet colored and a bit opaque with moderate bricking, medium bodied, ever so slight subdued nose on the concentrated red and black berry and black cherry fruits accented by leather, tobacco and spice with a hints of cedar and pain grille on a moderate finish of fine grained tannins. 

Vinous said “This bottle constitutes the best example of the 1985 that I have encountered.”

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?13153

https://www.chezjoelbistro.com/

https://www.estournel.com/en/


 

Tuesday, July 30, 2024

Neyers Sage Canyon Red Rhône Blend Wine 2020

Neyers Sage Canyon Red Rhône Blend Wine 2020 

With grilled beefsteak sandwiches with avocado, roasted potatoes and caprese balsamic salad we opened this Rhône style California red blend. We just picked up several bottles and were eager to try it. 


In 1970, Bruce Neyer’s deployment in the Army brought him and his wife Barbara to San Francisco during which time they developed a keen interest in wine. Upon discharge from the Army in 1972 Bruce landed a job at Mayacamas Winery in the Napa Valley where he spent two years as assistant winemaker to Bob Travers. While there he studied enology at the University of California, Davis. 

In 1974, Bruce and Barbara moved to the Nahe region in Germany where Bruce worked as an apprentice winemaker, returning to the US in March 1975. At that time, he was hired by Joseph Phelps in his new winery that bears his name, where he worked for 17 years, leaving as GM in 1992.

During that time, In 1982, Barbara and Bruce started Neyers Vineyards and in 1984 bought a 35-acre parcel in Conn Valley and began to develop it for vineyards with the idea of starting their own winery. 

In the fall of 1999, they purchased a 30-acre parcel in the Sage Canyon area of Napa Valley, a few miles east of Rutherford on Highway 128, near Lake Hennessey. There they built a winery with ‘state of the art’ wine production facilities. 

In 2004, they hired Tadeo Borchardt as winemaker. Tadeo’s winemaking experience was learned in the vineyard and the winery through on-the-job training.

Working for Restaurateur Roger Roessler, who was building a wine label in Santa Rosa with Copain winemaker Wells Guthrie, Borchardt was sent to the Russian River Valley to help with the harvest. What was intended to be seasonal work turned into a full-time position as Guthrie’s assistant. Borchardt later traveled to New Zealand to experience harvest in the southern hemisphere at Craggy Range, before returning to California to join Neyers Vineyards in 2004.

After leaving Phelps, Bruce became national sales manager for Berkeley-based importer Kermit Lynch until his retirement in 2017, where he grew the business many times over during his years there. Working closely with 100+ French wine producers, he was exposed to and learned winemaking, farming practices and production techniques.

During this time, they continued to develop their own estate Cabernet and Merlot growing production to 15,000 cases annually.

During his time with Kermit Lynch, Bruce became particularly interested in the wines from the southern Rhône. On the urging of Daniel Brunier of Châteauneuf du Pape producer Domaine Vieux Telegraphe, who he calls ‘one of my favorite producers from the area,’ he sought out to develop this blend similar in style to the great wines of that region. 


Neyers and Borchardt spent the next several years seeking out sources of the red varieties traditionally grown in the south of France and honing the techniques used to craft such wines. They also traveled together through the wine regions of France, where they met multi-generational winemakers who grew up among the vineyards, learning by doing. The instinctual approach of Old World winemakers in Burgundy and the Rhône Valley left an indelible impression on Borchardt. The wines he crafts for Neyers are heavily influenced by the philosophical approach of French winemakers.

Neyers Sage Canyon California Red Wine 2020

In the southern Rhône style, this is a blend of Rhône varietals Carignan, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah.

The 2020 is mainly old vine Carignan Evangelho & Jessie’s Grove vinyards with smaller amounts of Grenache, Mourvèdre, and a dash of Syrah for completeness. The added fruit is sourced from vineyards in Monterey County, San Luis Obispo County, Lodi, and the Sierra Foothills to the unique blend. This broadened the wine’s complexity and added ‘further elements of rusticity and elegance’.

The grapes for this wine are all hand-harvested, meticulously sorted during a visual inspection, then crushed by foot rather than by machine, using traditional French ‘pigeage’. 

The wine spent 18 months aging in neutral French oak barrels.

Winemaker notes - Look for a broad aroma of wild fruits and exotic spices accompanied by attractive flavors of berries and ginger. 

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, this had bright vibrant expressive juicy ripe black and red berry fruits accented by notes of spice and cedar with a tangy acidic finish. 

This was good with the steak but would be better suited with pizza, tangy bbq or pasta. 

RM 89 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4438724

https://www.neyersvineyards.com/



Saturday, July 27, 2024

Pour Boys Wine Dinner on the Deck

Pour Boys Wine Dinner on the Deck

We hosted a few of the remaining Chicago area Pour Boys of our wine group for a dinner on the deck featuring grilled tenderloin beefsteaks and a flight of premium red wines. 


Prior to dinner we served an extensive selection of artisan cheeses with assorted biscuits.


Blue Castillo Triple Cream Blue Cheese
Murray’s Gruyere
Mango Ginger Stilton
Wensleydale with Blueberries
Sumerdale IL Trufflino infused Chedder

With the cheeses and salad course of Balsamic Caprese Salad with cherry bomb tomatoes and fresh garden grown basel, we served a vintage Napa Valley Methode Traditionelle Champonaise Sparkling Wine and an Italian white blend. 




Mumm’s DVX Napa Valley Methode Champonaise Sparkling Wine 2000

This is from the legendary GH Mumm leading international champagne brand in France that dates back to its founding by the Mumm brothers in 1827 in Reims, France.

We visited the G.H. Mumm estate vineyards during our tour of the French Champagne region back in 2006. 


From 1976-1979 G.H. Mumm sent Winemaker Guy Devaux to discover the ideal winemaking area for growing traditional Champagne grapes in the United States. In 1979 they established Mumm Napa in California to produce premium hand crafted sparkling wines using traditional wine making techniques of its French heritage.

In 1983, they produced the first wine under the name Domaine Mumm  following the French Méthode traditionnelle method. The Mumm Napa brand was established in 1990 and in 1991 they developed the Estate Vineyard, Devaux Ranch in the Carneros Region of Napa Valley.

This special label is in memory of Mumm founding winemaker Gary Deveaux who in 1979 determined Napa Valley an ideal place to source grapes for classic sparkling wines. He crafted this blend from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for this 2000 vintage special bottling. 



2020 Vini Franchetti Passopisciaro Terre Siciliane IGT "Passobianco," Sicily, Italy



Instead of the indigenous Carricante, which grows on the eastern side of the volcano, Passobianco is made of 100% Chardonnay. 

This is from notable wine producer Andrea Franchetti proprietor of two very different vineyard projects, his first estate Tenuta di Trinoro developed from scratch, on rough farm and woodland in the far-flung reaches of southwest Tuscany. His other is on the slopes of Mt. Etna, and was the renaissance of reclaimed formerly abandoned terraces of vines upon Sicily’s live volcano. Both sites are extraordinary, complex, and poles apart in terms of terroir. From both his Tuscan and Sicilian estates, he produces a portfolio of wines that is rich and diverse. Each wine expresses the characteristics of the vintage, the particulars of the locations, and the fullest potential of the varieties.

In 2000 Andrea Franchetti restored an old farm and cellars on the slopes of Mount Etna, an active volcano in northeastern Sicily. The winery sits at about a thousand meters of altitude above the small wine town of Passopisciaro in the district of Castiglione di Sicilia, on the northern slope of the volcano. 

He cleared and restored long-abandoned terraces of ancient vines on the northern slopes of the mountain,  replanting at a density of 12,000 vines per hectare on thin lavic soil. At the Passopisciaro estate, he focuses primarily on the native grape Nerello Mascalese and its various expressions of terroir and altitudes through a series of crus, but also produces wines of the varieties Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, and Cesanese d’Affile.

There on Mt. Etna, Franchetti planted ten acres on steep terraces between 850 and 1,000 meters /2,600 and 3,300 feet above sea level in Contrada Guardiola, in very loose, deep, powder like lava that is rich in minerals. 

The high altitude, sun-drenched vineyards are are planted on lava flow from the volcano that possess a rich unique mineral profile, giving rise to the notion of various terroirs, here called contrade. Franchetti leverages the strengths of his chosen terroir on Etna, producing wines of remarkable complexity and individual personality. Significant temperature differences between day and night also play an important role, necessitating a longer growing period and this, in turn, contributes complexity and intensity, as do the profound mineral elements of the volcanic soils.

This is 100% Chardonnay, first released 2007, then known as Guardiola Bianco. Its complexities bring together the specific light, drastic changes in temperature, altitude, and volcanic influences of Etna, and the choice of Chardonnay was meant to allow these influences to meld and evolve over time as the white ages, inspired by the aging potential of the great whites of Burgundy. 

The site conditions are extraordinarily fussy, such that they pick small select portions of the vineyard every day, tasting the berries trailing along the terraces day after day, harvesting only when each individual cluster is ripe. The resulting wine is rich yet fresh, bright yet layered.

This 2020 release was rated 93 points by Monica Larner, Robertparker.com, 92 points by Danielle Callegari, Wine Enthusiast and Othmar Kiem – Simon Staffler, Falstaff, and 90 points by Eric Guido, Vinous.  Production was 36,000 bottles.

Light straw colored, light medium bodied, extraordinarily complex and evolving flavors over the course of the evening, notes of mineral, spice and crushed rocks, citrus and pear fruits that turned to peach, then honeysuckle and lime with hints of  toasted nuts and what one pundit referred to as ‘buttered sourdough bread on the back palate’, which was quite imaginatively insightful and illuminating, with tangy acidity on the rich finish. 

RM 91 points,




https://www.vinifranchetti.com/passopisciaro/the-wines/passo-bianco/


For the main dinner course, Linda prepared grilled beef tenderloin, ramekins of Gruyère Chive Mashed Potatoes, and a Vegetable Medley of summer squash, zucchini, green onions, cherry bomb tomatoes and baby portobello mushrooms with Parmesan cheese. 




With the main course we opened an imaginative flight of assorted premium red wines. As usual, care was taken to serve the wines in the proper order - light to heavy, with the complex red blend for the main course, and the heavier big bold red last as we pivoted to the dessert course and dessert wine.  


Red wine flight - 

Scarànto 2020 Italian Sangiovese Blend
Costello Banfi Poggio Al’Oro Brunello Di Montalcino Reserva 2015
Cloud View Napa Valley Pritchard Hill Red Blend 2001
Don Melchor Puente Alto Vineyard Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon 2019



Scarànto 2020 Sangiovese based blend from Italy

Scarànto is a medium- to full-bodied red wine with expressive Morello cherry, blackberry, dried red fruit, and herb aromas. Look for the same flavors on the concentrated, velvety-smooth palate. Hints of spice introduce the long, satisfying finish.

This Tuscan red is from special vineyards in the Conca d’Oro (golden conch)—a hallowed, shell-shaped slope in the heart of Chianti's famed Panzano district. Those vineyards are next door to Fontodi, whose flagship red costs over $100 a bottle. This release received a perfect 100-point score from Italian critic Cosimo Dell'Anna.

Scarànto is the first solo project from the talented Matteo Bernabei who heretofore worked alongside his legendary father, Franco — dubbed “Mr. Sangiovese” by the Italian press—as a consultant to some of Italy’s top estates (like the aforementioned Fontodi). See the duo below.

For this hugely acclaimed, barrel-aged Super Tuscan-blend of Sangiovese (70%) and Merlot (30%), he used the traditional governo method. After hand harvesting the fruit in September, he held back a small amount of Sangiovese grapes, air-drying them until December. Called leggermente appassito, these raisined grapes are added to the wine for a flavor-boosting secondary fermentation that brings extra richness and concentration.

Over to critic Cosimo Dell'Anna on what you can expect in the glass:

“Superb...cherry, blackberry, dried rose, tobacco and tar, with a balsamic finish. Soft and enveloping on the palate, it's rich and warm...with hints of jam and cocoa. 100 points.”

View awards

From hallowed Chianti Classico vineyards (next to Fontodi, whose flagship red costs over $100 a bottle), this “superb” Sangiovese-Merlot from stellar 2020 was made using an ancient, flavor-boosting met


Costella Banfi Poggio All’Oro Brunello Di Montalcino Reserva 2015

A Banfi family jewel, the Reserva Brunello, Poggio all'Oro is produced exclusively in the great vintages. A particularly elegant Brunello with a complex personality, which is expressed to the nose through a series of scents that are expressed slowly, from licorice, coffee, plum jam, and tobacco to end even with a slight hint of violet. The refined structure is in perfect balance with the acid part, which excellently supports the long persistence, perfectly suited to long ageing. It perfectly pairs with rich and complex dishes, also excellent as a meditation wine.


Winemaker Notes
The Poggio All'Oro Brunello di Montalcino Riserva has a deep ruby red color and a complex aroma of ripe black cherry, plum, tobacco, leather, and spices. On the palate, this wine is full-bodied, with a firm structure, balanced tannins, and a long, lingering finish.
Wine Enthusiast

98+ points Luca Gardini: "Thirty months in small barrels followed by fermentation with maceration lasting 12-14 days. A wine of unique character on the nose recalling cherry, bay leaf and caper berries with hints of caramel. The mouthfeel is taut, iodized and balsamic. On the finish, a salty return with excellent persistence. (Nov 2020)"

96 points Monica Larner (Wine Advocate): "[$200 list] The Castello Banfi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all'Oro is the top-shelf wine and shows careful integration and well-managed intensity. It opens to tart berry fruit, cassis and sour cherry. As it reveals itself in the glass, it begins to slowly deliver more spice, smoke and tar. All these various elements come together with balance and harmony, although these 2015 Riservas remain plumper and richer compared to their counterparts from 2016. Wait a few more years before opening this bottle; it needs more time. Some 27,000 bottles were made, and this wine will be released in September 2021. (Nov 2020)"

96 points/'Cellar Selection,' Kerin O'Keefe (Wine Enthusiast): "[$200 list] Forest-floor, new leather and pipe-tobacco aromas mingle with notes of violet and coffee bean. Elegantly structured, the taut, savory palate doles out ripe black cherry, blackberry jam, licorice and a hint of espresso while polished, fine-grained tannins and tangy acidity provide age-worthy support. It's still youthfully austere so give it a few more years to come around. Drink 2024–2036. Alcohol 14%. (May 2021)"

95 points Jeb Dunnuck: "The 2015 Poggio all’Oro Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is only produced in exceptional vintages and was aged for 30 months in 70% large French oak casks and 30% in French oak barriques. It reveals smoky aromatics of cedar, dried black cherry, and dark mineral earth and a persistent core of ripe black fruit that is cloaked with ripe, velvety tannins and notes of black tea and clove. A luxurious and contemplative wine from the historic Banfi estate, it will benefit from additional time in the cellar and keep over the next 20 years. Drink: 2025-2045. (3/4/21)"

95 points James Suckling: "Mixed-cherry, floral and crushed-stone aromas. Full-bodied with firm tannins and a fresh finish. Linear and tight with a line of fine tannins that holds this all together. Iodine and mushroom notes come through. Try after 2023. (11/5/20)"


96 points, Kerin O’Keefe, Wine Enthusiast: “Forest-floor, new leather and pipe-tobacco aromas mingle with notes of violet and coffee bean. Elegantly structured, the taut, savory palate doles out ripe black cherry, blackberry jam, licorice and a hint of espresso while polished, fine-grained tannins and tangy acidity provide age-worthy support. It's still youthfully austere so give it a few more years to come around. Drink 2024–2036.” 05/21

Wine Advocate
96 points, Monica Larner, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: “The Castello Banfi 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all'Oro is the top-shelf wine and shows careful integration and well-managed intensity. It opens to tart berry fruit, cassis and sour cherry. As it reveals itself in the glass, it begins to slowly deliver more spice, smoke and tar. All these various elements come together with balance and harmony, although these 2015 Riservas remain plumper and richer compared to their counterparts from 2016. Wait a few more years before opening this bottle; it needs more time. Some 27,000 bottles were made, and this wine will be released in September 2021.” 11/20

James Suckling
95 points, James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com: “Mixed-cherry, floral and crushed-stone aromas. Full-bodied with firm tannins and a fresh finish. Linear and tight with a line of fine tannins that holds this all together. Iodine and mushroom notes come through. Try after 2023.” 11/20




Cloud View Napa Valley Pritchard Hill Red Blend 2001

I wrote about Cloud View in a detailed blogpost last summer - Cloud View Napa Valley Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. I wrote that the estate was sold and is now owned by Tim Mondavi of Continuum. 

Excerpts from that and earlier posts ...

The Cloud View Vineyards estate was located on Pritchard Hill in the Vaca Mountain range that forms the eastern wall of Napa Valley, just south of Lake Hennessy and to the east of the Oakville AVA. The vineyards are grown between 1,000 and 1,500 feet above the Napa Valley floor. They were originally planted by owners Linda and Leighton Taylor who moved to Pritchard Hill in 1990 and began planting 23 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot on the 90 acre property five years later in 1995.

The property eventually included 26 acres planted to Bordeaux varietals Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot, planted by the original owners Linda and Leighton Taylor.

After selling the property, the Taylors had intended to continue the brand, but use purchased Pritchard Hill grapes but we've never seen any indication of a release from them.

Pritchard Hill is the site of some of Napa's most prestigious labels including Brand, Bryant Family, Colgin, Del Dotto's ultra-premium Villa Del Lago, Ovid and one of our favorites, Chappellet and David Arthur. We visited David Arthur on Pritchard Hill during our Napa Wine Experience in 2013, and previously, we visited Chappellet on other side of Pritchard Hill during our Pritchard Hill, Napa Valley Experience - Autumn '09 with our visit to long time resident/producer Chappellet Vineyards.

While Pritchard Hill is not an official appellation (AVA - American Viticultural Area), it certainly could be, but lacks a sponsor to apply and lobby for designation. Donn Chappellet, owner/producer, the earliest settler in the modern era owns the 1971 Pritchard Hill trademark and firmly declares, “It will not become its own AVA.”This 1999 Cloud View release was the inaugural release of wine and this label from this estate. Production was limited with 400 cases produced in 1999, 560 cases were made in 2000, growing to 2,000 cases were made in 2004.

We have six vintages of this label, from the 1999 through the 2005 vintage. A fellow Cellertracker'er contacted me year before last, seeking one of our vintages to fill out his vertical collection. We traded bottles to each fill out our verticals in a perfect trade scenario. Of our six vintages we hold of this label, we selected the oldest one, tonight, as part of cellar inventory management. Earlier we drank the ‘99 and 2000 releases so tonight, this ‘01 was our oldest vintage. We recently drank an ultra-premium Napa Bordeaux from this same 2001 vintage, so I was eager to compare the two.

This vintage release is a blend of 57% Merlot and 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, all sourced from the winery's estate vineyards. Interesting that they publish the lower percentage Merlot first and the majority Cabernet second (on the rear label - as shown here). Note this very limited production release was acquired at auction at Winebid.com. 

The winemaker for these wines was Karen Bower Turjanis who previously worked under Paul Hobbs at Lokoya and Cardinale Estate. We tasted a Cardinale Estate just the other evening, as featured in a blogpost in these pages - Boys night features flight of ultra-premium Napa Cabernets. Fernando Espinoza was the cellarmaster and owner Linda Taylor was the vineyard manager.

The entire 85-acre Cloud View property was acquired by Continuum, the wine label owned by brother and sister Tim and Marcia Mondavi with Margrit Biever Mondavi, widow of the legendary Robert Mondavi. The Continuum brand was founded in 2005, and is Tim Mondavi's first venture since leaving the Robert Mondavi Winery in 2003. Both the 2006 and 2005 vintages were made from grapes from a leased Oakville property, and the Pritchard Hill purchase helps realize the family's goal of being a single-vineyard estate winery. The switch from an Oakville bottling to a Pritchard Hill bottling began with the 2008 vintage.

The late Robert Mondavi, who was also a partner in the Continuum brand, visited the site with his family before he passed away in May of 2008. "It's so meaningful that he saw it, to see where we are headed in the future," said Carissa.

Winemaker Notes for the Cloud View Vineyard's 1999 Proprietary Red Table Wine .... "is rich with intensely dark ripe fruit, round mid-palate and a long lingering finish of velvety tannins. The myriad of aromas includes anise and fennel, black olive and wild ginger, and is supported by a solid base of dark fruit and the toasty vanilla of fine French oak. On the palate, the ripe fruit opens up to hues of raspberry, blackberry, and dark black cherry with subtleties of lavender. The tannic backbone, which draws itself directly from this mountain site, weaves seamlessly with the warmth of creamy oak. We have crafted this wine for enjoyment now and well into the future. Aroma & Color Earthy–red dust, dark ripe fruit, wild sage, anise, fennel, black olive, ginger, vanilla oak. Profoundly garnet with the deep colors unique to mountain fruit. Flavor - Dark ripe fruit, raspberry, blackberry, lavender, velvety tannins, and subtle, creamy oak. Overall comments - Lush, delicious, round mid-palate, long finish, mouth filling.

I featured other vintages of this label in these pages in these blogposts and Cellertracker posted tasting notes.
In February 2018 - I wrote I like this wine: and gave it 92 Points.

This was dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, with firm concentrated structured core of brambley earthy black currant and black berry fruits with a layer of sweet caramel accented by tones of cassis, sweet spicy tangy oak and silky tannins on the lingering finish.

I featured it in a blogpost in these pages - Cloud View Napa Valley Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2004.https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/02/cloud-view-napa-valley-pritchard-hill.html

In June last summer, 2023 I featured this label in these pages in this blogpost - Cloud View Napa Valley Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

The Brand estate had been owned by the Miner Family Winery till it was purchased by businessman Ed Fitts. Portuguese Gandona owners bought the land from Bob Long (Zelma’s husband) when Long Vineyards ceased operations.

The Cloud View Vineyards estate ceased operation with the 2006 vintage when it was sold to Tim Mondavi when he struck out on his own after the family broke away from Robert Mondavi Winery. When he acquired the Pritchard Hill estate and founded Continuum Estate, the 62 acre vineyard was the second largest estate in the region. Note that the Cloud View brand was not sold so we might see it re-emerge in some fashion at some point in the future although the website is gone and the domain name is for sale.

In November 2021, fellow Cellartracker'er Thirsty1 wrote about this wine in a vertical tasting.


"The 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005 Cloud View Vineyards wines were enjoyed side by side at Bourbon Steak with Rib Cap, grilled Vidalia onions and crispy brussel sprouts. The wines were left upright for a day, then opened with an ah-so at home an hour before dinner to keep the corks together, then quickly reinserted to minimize oxygenation. The clear winner was the 2002 - in full flight. Still exhibiting youthful fruit and towering structure, this beauty had weight, leather, dark hanging fruit and stunning aroma. Lingering, lasting finish. It still has much life ahead of it. The 2001 was a bit of a surprise. It was massive and brutish, but reserved. As if it were a towering building draped in a cape. The 2000 was a shocker. From a horrible vintage, it excelled. Not near the greatness of the other vintages there was no expectation it would be good, and it was - just to a lesser note. The 2003, 04 and 05 were fairly interchangeable; mature fruit, acid and tannins in balance. All delicious in their own right. The 1999 was the oldest and looked the part. It was brick around the rim and had that dried blackberry note, plowed earth and cocoa powder texture. It was the only one, aside from the 2000, that I would say was on the decline. Incredible wines on an incredible night."

I've been waiting for an opportunity to enjoy this rare label and the other five vintage releases that I hold in the cellar. This tasting was consistent with earlier tastings of other vintages.

2001 Cloud View Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 

91 points Wine Enthusiast

Smoky and tarry at first, later opening into black cherry and tobacco notes. Long, intense and tannic on the finish; needs time. (6/2005) Int'l Wine Cellar

Subtle aromas of dark berries, sassafras and bitter chocolate; became oakier with aeration. Lively, intense, supple flavors of dark berries, chocolate and spices, nicely framed by well-integrated acids. Finishes with firm, building tannins. (ST) (6/2004) 

K&L Notes

Continuum purchased this prime vineyard site on Pritchard Hill in the Vaca Mountains in the mid-2000s. Cloud View produced a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend that Robert Parker once noted "...adroitly marries the elegance of Bordeaux with Napa Valley's rich, ripe fruit."


We then moved to the final Cabernet Bordeaux varietal of the evening.

Don Melchor Puente Alto Vineyard Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

This is from Don Melchor Estate Vineyard located at the foot of the Andes Mountains on the northern bank of the Maipo River, 650 m above sea level. It consists of 310 acres, planted to 90% Cabernet Sauvignon; 7.1% Cabernet Franc, 1.9% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. The vines in the old vineyard average 30 years in age.







Antonio Federici Rosso Roma 2021
Red Blend from Italy
4.3 out of 5 stars, average rating value. Read 777 Reviews. Same page li3 out of 6 (50%) reviewers recommend this product

View awards


Cantine Federici is one of the first (and best) producers in Italy’s Roma region. You have insi




Wine Flavor Profile
Antonio Federici is a full-bodied red with ripe Morello cherry and delicate raspberry aromas. The sumptuous palate has luscious black fruit and cherry flavors, plus hints of warming spice on the long, complex finish.





Led by third-generation Damiano Federici, Cantine Federici is one of the first (and best) producers in Italy’s Roma region.


Named after Damiano’s grandfather, this powerful red marries hand-harvested Montepulciano and Cesanese grown in the hills outside of Rome—the same ones that supplied stone for the Colosseum.

Continuing a well-established tradition, the new release arrives with major acclaim. It sports a 98-point score from leading Italian critic Luca Maroni, as well as a double-gold medal and Great Value designation from the China Wine & Spirits Awards. Crafted with a portion of dried grapes (which creates seriously concentrated flavors), Antonio Federici delivers a sumptuous texture, with luscious black fruit and warming spice notes.

Most of Cantine Federici’s wines are sold directly to local restaurants (where they’re served with rigatoni all’amatriciana and other hearty pasta dishes)—so it’s rare to see them in the U.S. Act quickly for your share of this Roman sensation.





varieties
cabernet sauvignon cabernet franc merlot
petit verdot
bottling date
December 2020
92% 5% 2% 1%

winemaker
Enrique Tirado.
vineyard
Don Melchor Vineyard, D.O. Puente Alto, Alto Maipo Valley.
vineyard description
Later, the ripening period in March and April was marked by cool temperatures that continued throughout the entire harvest period, which is ideal for achieving slow ripening in the bunches, the perfect condition for obtaining lively fruit expression and tremendous elegance in the tannins.
Looking at the entire ripening period between January and April 2019, we observe an average of 18.2oC, which is slightly higher than the historic average of 18.0oC.
harvest
Manual, from March 18 through May 9, 2019. The vineyard yield was 4.0 tons per hectare.
vinification cellar
Don Melchor Cellar, Puente Alto.
vinification
Alcoholic fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks and lasted 8 days at 25o–26oC with 3 pumpovers per day. Upon completion of the fermentation process, the tank was hermetically sealed for an 8- to 10-day maceration at 23o–25oC for greater extraction and smoother tannins. At the end of the maceration period, each tank was drained, tasted, and evaluated for selection by the Don Melchor enological and viticultural team. All of the wines were later tasted and selected to make the final blend, which was then transferred to barrels.
aging
15 months in French oak barrels (72% new and 28% second use).
aging potential
Over 35 years.
tasting notes
Deep purplish-red in color. The wine from this vintage shows an extraordinary elegance with an abundance of fresh red fruit and notes of blackcurrants and flowers.
On the palate it has an enormous wealth of flavors, with breadth from beginning to end, and plenty of energy in perfect balance with the elegance of the textures and flavors.
food pairing
Red meats, especially lamb, and game meats prepared by different methods—roasted, braised, and with sauces made with red wine, mushrooms, rosemary, and tomatoes. Assorted terrines and pâtés, especially duck with truffles. Dry and well-aged or creamy cow’s and goat’s milk cheeses.


The Don Melchor Vineyard is located at the foot of the Andes Mountains on the northern bank of the Maipo River, 650 m above sea level. It consists of 127 hectares, planted to 90% Cabernet Sauvignon; 7.1% Cabernet Franc, 1.9% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. The vines in the old vineyard average 30 years in age.

plantation year and density
Old vineyard (80%): 1979–1992, 2,000 to 4,000 plants/hectare
New vineyard (20%): 2004–2017, 8,000 plants/hectare

soil
The first 30 cm of the soil profile is loam. Then, a large number of stones with a sandy-loam texture appear at depth. These soils ensure good drainage and low fertility, conditions that allow the restriction of vegetative growth and generate the ideal restriction of water during veraison. This encourages the accumulation and ripening of phenolic compounds, which is very important for producing great red wines.

climate
In general, the vineyard has a semi-arid Mediterranean climate with an average annual rainfall of 335 mm. This is one of the coldest zones of the Alto Maipo Valley.
This season was characterized by presenting less rain than in a normal year, with just 161.6 mm, primarily concentrated in the winter and spring. On the other hand, the average annual temperatures were close to normal, with higher temperatures in November, which encouraged good, concentrated flowering and fruit set, and in January and February, which produced the