Sunday, May 12, 2024

Mother’s Day Surf ‘n Turf dinner paired with ultra-premium wines

Mother’s Day Surf ‘n Turf dinner paired with spectacular flight of ultra-premium wines

We were blessed to have all four of our children drop in for Mother’s Day. Some had to move on to mother-in-laws for dinner but Ryan and Alec were able to stay. 

After some spirited blistering pickleball on the driveway court we settled in to a fabulous dinner with some spectacular wines. 

For a very special Mother’s Day dinner we dined on the deck and Linda prepared surf ‘n turf lobster tails and ribeye beefsteak served with grilled asparagus and baked potatoes. Son’s Ryan and Alec brought over from their cellars some ultra-premium wines, which I supplemented with some labels from our cellar.



Our initial wine flight included these labels plus a couple others … 

Kistler Durrell Vineyard Sonoma County Chardonnay 2019 

Ryan brought from his cellar this classic, legendary producer single vineyard select Chardonnay. Kistler produce one heritage Californian selection Chardonnay based clone planted across fifteen select vineyards, from Carneros to Sonoma Valley, to the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast. From those sites they produce eleven vineyard designate Chardonnays, each representing the unique terroir of the site.

This label, Durrell Vineyard Chardonnay, has been bottled since 1986, sourced from a vineyard at the bottom of Sonoma Valley where it meets the Sonoma Coast and Carneros appellations. The site contains loamy soil that is heavily influenced by a vein of stone that runs through the blocks that are dedicated to this label. 

Winemaker notes for this release - “Pale yellow. Luxurious perfumes lift high, pinned by the marine-earthen tones of the lower reaches of Sonoma Valley/Carneros. Fully ripe yellow and orange citrus flesh and blooms, and a golden fruited body lead to a silken-weighted middle, sparked by natural acids and a lengthy finish that persists with hints of herbed nut oils. The weightiest of our fall release wines but so driven by its well-integrated acidity, that it belies its own density and sits perfectly balanced.”

This release was awarded 97 points by Lisa Perrotti-Brown of The Wine Independent and James Suckling, and 95 points by Vinous, Antonio Galloni.

Golden straw colored with light green hue, medium-full bodied, polished nicely integrated and balanced, expressive vibrant notes of lime, lemon and grapefruit citrus with notes of stone fruit and minerality with smooth acidity on the long finish.

RM 93 points, 

https://www.kistlervineyards.com/wines/2021-durell-vineyard-chardonnay/


Cuvée 'L' Veuve Doussot Champagne NV 

This Pinot Noir Chardonnay blend Champagne comes from the southern Aube region, the vineyards surrounding the village of Noé-les-Mallets in the Côte-des-Bar, situated near the house of general Degaulle and its memorial, opposite the village of Troyes. The area is closer to Chablis than the center of the Champagne region, with a warmer microclimate ideal for Pinot Noir. 

The Champagne house of Veuve Doussot has been home to several generations of winegrowers, involved in all aspects of growing and producing wines since 1746. Today it is run by third generation Stephane Joly.

The Joly family have been winegrowers and producers in the heart of the Champagne region for over a century. In 1970, Georges Joly and his sons created the first Veuve Doussot brand, continuing the family winemaking history set by his grandfather, father and uncles. 

Stephane Joly took over after the death of his father. He restructured the vineyard taking over parts from his cousins, and took over all aspects of  winemaking, marketing and distribution. He is a member of the commandery of “Saulte bouchon Champenois” and local member of the general winegrowers union.

The vineyards are 90% planted to Pinot Noir, best suited to area for its soil rich with clay and limestone. To add fresh and floral flavours to the Champagne they also grow Chardonnay; creating a smell and a taste unique to the distinctive terroir. Because of the proximity to Chablis, you often find similar veins of the chalky Kimmeridgian soil, interspersed with red clay and limestone.

The Veuve Doussot portfolio includes 10 different Champagne cuvees, a few still wines, and an excellent Ratafia (an aperitif made from distilled Champagne grapes).

This cuvee is primarily composed of Pinot Noir, blended with 15% chardonnay, and aged in the classical Champagne tradition, on the lees in bottles for a minimum of 18 months. The dosage level here is designated as Brut.  

This was rated 92 by Wine Enthusiast. 

Golden straw colored, medium bodied, rich and textured, intense bright pear, melon, green apple and citrus fruit flavors with toasty pain grille notes accentuated with dusty rose, white flowers and chalky minerals ending with a bright, crisp finish.

RM 91 points. 

Viña Cobos, Vineyard Designate Malbec, Marchiori Estate, Luján de Cuyo, Argentina, 2019

Ryan brought the remains of this bottle from his cellar. We first tasted this wine when Ryan served it at a family gathering about a year ago, which I wrote about in detail in pages at that time, excerpted below. 

Viña Cobos is the Argentine project of legendary California winemaker/producer Paul Hobbs. 

In addition to his global consulting career, Paul Hobbs has navigated producing wines globally, engaging annually in two harvests across nine countries.  Today, Paul is the owner and winemaker for Sebastopol, California based wineries Paul Hobbs Winery and Crossbarn, as well as his international partnerships: Viña Cobos of Argentina, Crocus of Cahors, France, Yacoubian-Hobbs of Armenia and his two latest projects in development: Hillick & Hobbs, focusing on Finger Lakes riesling, and Alvaredos-Hobbs in Galicia, Spain.

Paul Hobbs visited Mendoza in Argentina in 1989 and started working with Malbec, exploring different terroirs of Mendoza, looking for the most distinguished regions in Luján de Cuyo and the Valle de Uco, to produce wines that uniquely express their origins.

He established Viña Cobos in 1998, After twenty years of experimenting, development, innovation and improvement, Viña Cobos has evolved to become internationally recognized for producing luxury-class wines and a world quality leader for Malbec based wines. Viña Cobos creates extraordinary wines of outstanding quality, highlighting Malbec as the emblematic variety of Mendoza.

With the inaugural vintage of Cobos Malbec in 1999, Viña Cobos marked a milestone in viticulture, defying existing standards and firmly positioned Malbec and Argentina on the international wine scene.

Viña Cobos, Vineyard Designate Malbec, Marchiori Estate, Luján de Cuyo, Argentina, 2018  

The winery’s elegant and balanced wines are a result of meticulous vineyard farming and utmost attention to showcasing the specific terroir of the region. This Malbec is sourced from Estates and vineyards in Luján de Cuyo and Valle de Uco. The Marchiori Estate is the cornerstone of Viña Cobos. Malbec grapes grown in block C2 have been the key source since the inaugural vintage release, Cobos Malbec 1999. 

Luján de Cuyo is the premier growing region of Mendoza, fed by the snow-melt of the Andes through the Mendoza River. High altitudes range from 945 - 1,100 m (2,624 - 3,608 ft). The soils are alluvial, with a subsoil of clay, sand, silt and rock.

Valle de Uco with proximity to the Andes Mountains characterizes this cool, high altitude region. Vineyards sites range from 900 - 1,400 m (2,950 - 4,600 ft) in elevation. The soils are alluvial, sandy and rocky, and in some areas, limestone.

In addition to Malbec, Viña Cobos grows and produces Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay.

The 2015 Cobos Marchiori Estate Malbec was awarded 98 points by JS. This release was awarded 97 points by James Suckling and 95 by Wine Spectator.

Winemaker Notes - “Cobos Marchiori seduces with its extraordinary aromatic richness, it is an intense and elegant wine, in which its great freshness stands out. It shows an intense red color with violet tones. We find red fruit, cassis, plum, spices, blond tobacco, coconut, white pepper, chocolate and subtle notes of cardamom. The richness on the nose is repeated in the mouth in an exquisite way. It is long and sweet, with soft tannins. A meaty and complex wine, with a long finish on the palate.”

“This is really dynamic and focused with blueberry, blackberry and mineral character. Hints of lavender and sandalwood. Full body, yet so tight and lifting. The palate just grows at the finish which goes on and on. Juicy, meaty and dried herb flavors at the end,” writes James Suckling..

The first release of this wine was 2018, under the 'Viña Cobos Vineyard Designate' label. The Viña Cobos Vineyard Designate line captures the richness and power of exceptional vineyards and estates within Valle de Uco and Luján de Cuyo. 

This was dark inky purple colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated extracted black and blue fruits with notes of bacon, tobacco, black tea, spice and herbs with a full lingering finish. 

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4240423 

https://www.paulhobbsselections.com/vinfata-cobos
 
@VinaCobos

Stalworth Rutherford Bench Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Ryan also brought this recently acquired limited release label to try to determine his cellaring strategy and expected drinking profile. 

This is the Rutherford Bench label from co-owner and general manager of the Stalworth project Tim Persson who, with his wife, Sabrina, took over his father-in-law's wine business, Hess Family Wine Estates, which today is called Hess Persson Estates

Tim took over running the wine estates after spending time with his father-in-law, Donald Hess, during the post-financial crisis in 2010 and 2011. In 2012, Tim and his wife moved to Napa Valley to oversee the estate and family wine business.

Tim has a unique background being raised in one of the smallest African countries, Eswatini – Africa's last absolute monarchy, previously known as Swaziland. After attending university in Europe, he became a corporate lawyer and practiced in New York and London before meeting his wife Sabrina.

Tim oversees and leads the wine business as Sabrina tends to her psychotherapy practice. Together they managed to navigate a series of setbacks and natural disasters including the 2014 earthquake that destroyed one of their main wine cellars, the landslides in 2016 that cut off power and access to the winery, wildfires in 2017 causing the winery only being able to make a small fraction of its high-end wines due to the wildfires and the smoke, and wildfires agin in 2020 forcing them to make no Napa wine at all.

Yet, Tim's initial mission to "reestablish" the credentials of Hess with regards to making high-end Cabernet Sauvignon wines was never deterred. As he thought about the 30th anniversary of Hess Family Wine Estates, celebrated in 2011, it was now his responsibility to make sure that the winery stayed relevant for the next 30 years and that is where Stalworth comes in. 

For the Stalworth project, Tim searched for a great Napa winemaker who would oversee creating an iconic wine from the Rutherford Bench, raising the bar when it came to Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon wines. 

He as able to sign Celia Welch, an expert in making iconic Rutherford wines including the hard to obtain Scarecrow. They found the ideal vineyard in the Rutherford Bench in 2015 but the back-to-back unfortunate events of extreme accumulation of drought from 2012 to 2015 as well as all the disasters suffered from 2014 to 2017, put off the first vintage of Stalworth until 2018 - considered a "spectacular year" that is "terroir-driven" according to Wine Spectator. 

Celia said that they used that delay time to learn the vineyard and to experiment in the winery with the wines in building up to and preparing for the inaugural vintage. During that time, they also had to rebuild the original historic antique stone winery, built in 1903, that had been destroyed by an earthquake, allowing them to build a state-of-the-art facility setting the stage to reach greater heights.

This 2019 Stalworth, Rutherford Bench, NapaValley is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with a minuscule amount of Malbec and Petit Verdot. 

Winemaker notes - “Delicious cassis flavor to this wine that has lots of juiciness with blackberry preserves and baking spice with sweet tobacco leaf and crushed rocks all wrapped up in lush tannins and a superb length of flavor.”

Adding a slight amount of Malbec and Petit Verdot, according to Celia, was more about "balancing the texture" as there might be either a dip in the mid-palate that needs to be filled in or maybe some rounding out as she always wants the last sip to be tasty as she wants to avoid any astringency. 

This was dark ruby colored, full bodied with elegant polished blackberry and black cherry fruits with notes of black tea, floral and anise with smooth polished tannins on the lingering finish. 

RM 92 points. 

Only 167 cases were made of their inaugural release in 2018.

Del Dotto ‘Vineyard 887’ Connoisseur Series Colbert French Oak St Helena Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 

I pulled from the cellar this special limited release label from Del Dotto Vineyards, a family-owned winery which focuses on small production, premium wines. Since our introduction to Dave and Yolanda Del Dotto back in the 90’s they have gone on to acquire several more vineyards across the top Napa Valley American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) including Rutherford, Oakville, St. Helena, Spring Mountain, Howell Mountain, as well as out on the Sonoma Coast. 

Through our wine club allocations and purchases at the various Del Dotto wineries over the years, including the St Helena Winery and Caves, and the Piazza Del Dotto Winery in Oakville, this producer represents one of the largest holdings in our cellar collection, dating back to their inaugural releases in 1993-94. 

We’ve visited three of the Del Dotto winery estates including one of the most memorable wine tasting events we have had in Napa - the delicacies culinary wine pairing at Piazza Del Dotto during our Napa Wine Experience 2018

We’ve featured Del Dotto tasting and site visits many times in these pages including  our Del Dotto Winery and Caves tasting tour the year earlier, when we acquired this bottle. 
With small production counts and a dedicated team, they produce luxurious, high-quality wines. This is from their Rutherford estate, which consists of 12 acres of Bordeaux varietals. Robert Parker has praised the producer: "Don’t dare miss a tasting at Del Dotto’s cellars... Dave Del Dotto has put together an impressive team of winemakers and spent a fortune securing some of the best vineyard sites money can buy. All things considered, his wines, which he calls “silk juice,” are exceptional in quality, along with his charcuterie, which really could be sold for a small fortune, given the amazing quality it exhibits.”
  • In the unique, almost excessive Connoisseur Series, Del Dotto uses over 50 barrel types from cooperages around the world including France, USA, Russia, Hungary and Italy. Bottles are labelled with the oak type. For this single vineyard release the Del Dotto website lists no less than 37 different wines featuring different specific oak barrel and vintage combinations.


    Our Pour Boys wine group tour the Del Dotto
    St Helena Winery and Caves 
    I pulled from our cellar this ultra-premium single-vineyard designated select Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This was especially fun to taste this label as it represents some pleasant memories of our Napa Valley wine tours. We tasted and then procured this wine during our Napa Valley, Del Dotto Winery and Caves Tasting and Tour in 2018.

    This single vineyard designated select label is crafted from fruit from the Del Dotto 887 St Helena Vineyard. 

  • The vineyard is named for the address, 887 St Helena Highway, on the south approaches into the town, the picturesque vineyard sits just north of Zinfandel Lane nestled against the foothill along St Helena highway. It consists of nine acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, planted in 2000. 

    Rick & Linda with David Del Dotto, 2003

    Located on the south end of the St. Helena Appellation, Vineyard 887 is one of the highest rated vineyards in Napa Valley. It is purported to be the favorite vineyard of the producer.

    This vineyard shows the typical St. Helena characteristics of lush, fruity berries, with easily accessible tannins on the palate. 

    The inaugural vintage of an 887 Vineyard single vineyard designated wine/label was in 2004. By 2012 it was receiving 96-98 point ratings from Robert Parker. 


    The property also is the site of a guest cottage, amidst the vineyard surrounded by the vines. Linda and I had the pleasure of staying in the cottage during a memorable weekend at the Napa Valley Del Dotto winery, estate, vineyards and cave tour back in 2003 (left).

    The single vineyard designated label didn't exist back then, it came along the next year, but we didn't discover the label until our 2018 estate and winery visit and tour. We purchased this label at that time, much in remembrance of that earlier visit, and had great anticipation of tasting this wine again, which we finally did tonight. 


    Del Dotto Napa Valley Vineyard 887 St. Helena Connoiseur's Series Colbert French Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 

    This is a classic Napa Valley Cabernet Savignon, crafted in the unique Del Dotto method, it is part of the Del Dotto Connoisseur's Series where the same wine will be aged in different oak barrels of different oaks for the ultimate comparison tasting experience. We once did a horizontal tasting of the same wine aged in several different French and American Oak barrels. I recall this oak, was my favorite from that tasting, although many of the differences are very slight and nuanced. 


    This version was aged in Colbert French Oak. Robert Parker gives this wine 95 points and an aging window of 2018 out to 2040. 

    We have hosted wine dinners where we served a selection the Connoisseur Series of the same wine aged in different oaks. Only the discriminating experienced enophiles appreciated and discerned the differences. 

Winemaker notes - “This is a very unique and dense Vineyard 887 Cabernet Sauvignon bouquet.  Powerful aromatics of leather, cedar, tobacco and blueberry and boysenberry fruits.  As the nose opens up, nuances of purple rose pedals and sweet Tahitian vanilla bean develop. The mouthfeel is very balanced and soft, yet rich from the mid to back palate. This lovely Reserve Cab showcases cassis, black currants and raspberry with an undertone of dark chocolate covered strawberries. The 2015 887 is drinking beautifully right now and will continue to unfold layers of flavors for the next 10+ years.”

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, complex, concentrated, forward, structured black berry and tangy black currant fruits with notes of pipe tobacco, black tea, graphite and hints of milk chocolate, anise and spicy cinnamon turning to firm but silky smooth approachable tannins on the long tangy acidic lingering finish. This is getting better every year. In 2020 I wrote, this needs a few more years to settle, soften and integrate further. It’s working as this was delicious and likely will continue to improve with some more aging over the next several years. I wish I had more. 

RM 94 

https://www.deldottovineyards.com/collection/vineyard-887

https://www.deldottovineyards.com/product/2015-vineyard-887-family-reserve-cabernet-sauvignon-750ml

Beau Vigne “Cult” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

Alec brought this ultra-premium Napa Valley Cabernet. 

This producer first caught our attention when buddy Bob brought one of their wines to our Pour Boys OTBN - "Open-That-Bottle-Night" 2022 in Charleston and I pegged it as WOTN - Wine of the Night, my personal favorite. Bob picked up the bottle at his local Total Wine beverage superstore in Boca Raton Town Center. I saw the label when there and also at the new Total Wine in Indy. 

Soon thereafter, son Ryan got their wine club promotional mailing and shared it and Alec and I picked up a mixed case of their Signature Series Bordeaux varietals including this aged vintage release from their library close-out. Since then we’ve continued to collect various labels and releases from their collection. 

I’ve written about Beau Vigne in several blogposts in these pages, (pronounced bo-veenya), Beau Vigne was founded by Ed and Trish Snider with their first vintage release in 2002. Translated from French it means beautiful vineyard in French.

Ed’s family has a long history in Napa Valley dating back to his Swiss Italian grandfather Martin Garzoli who arrived in Napa in 1913. He grew up on a ranch in Carneros and worked on farms in Napa and Sonoma. Martin made his own wines at home in the evenings. His son John Garzoli played for the San Francisco 49ers in 1955 and went on to coach football at St. Helena High School in the center of Napa Valley where children of many vintners attended school. A number of Ed’s former students are now in the wine industry.

In 2018, they sold Beau Vigne to Don Dady and Jason Kyle from Arizona. Jason was a former NFL football player, a long snapper for five different teams including the San Francisco 49ers. In addition to his wine interests, Jason is co-owner of Press Coffee Roasters with locations in Arizona.  Partner Dady is co-founder of Annexus, a financial company in Scottsdale and also owns Seven Apart Winery in Napa Valley just north of the city of Napa. 

Beau Vigne sourced fruit for their estate wines from their 10 acre Stags Ridge Vineyard at the top of Soda Canyon Road on the slopes of Atlas Peak at about 1650 feet elevation. The site was planted to 8 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and an acre each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Ed sold the vineyard and it is now a part of Seven Apart Winery’s estate. Beau Vigne continues to source grapes from there and other premium vineyards in Napa Valley. 

Since 2019, Beau Vigne has partnered with Appellation Trading Company to distribute Beau Vigne as part of their portfolio of brands. 

Over the years, Beau Vigne has been crafted by several highly regarded Napa Valley winemakers. Their founding winemaker was Dave Phinney who went on to develop several successful brands, most notably, Orin Swift Cellars and the Prisoner portfolio of wines. One of our favorite winemakers, Kirk Venge of Venge Vineyards has also crafted Beau Vigne wines. Today the winemaker is Julien Fayard.

Originally from France, Julien began his career as a winemaker producing quality rosé at his family’s winery in Provence. He worked at legendary Chateaux Lafite Rothschild and Smith Haut Laffite in Bordeaux before relocating to Napa Valley where he was Philippe Melka’s director of winemaking for a few years before setting out on his own.

Julien earned his Master in Agri-Business from ESA France and his Master in Winemaking from Toulouse France. In 2011, he received his MBA from UC Davis. 

Recently, Beau Vigne became part of a select collection of vintners represented at Vintner’s Collective, the city of Napa’s oldest collective tasting room. They showcase wines from an elite group of premier Napa Valley producers who do not have their own tasting rooms. Select bottlings and vintages of Beau Vigne are available for tasting and purchased there. 

Beau Vigne bottles wines under three different brands; the Legacy Series, the Signature Series and the Discovery Series.

Beau Vigne “CULT” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

First released in 2008 and is culled solely from barrels selected with complex aromatics, voluptuous texture and purity as well as depth. CULT is produced to “convey a pure expression of climate and soil with winemaker Julien Fayard nurturing its creation,” according to the producer. ‘

This label is a bit of an enigma, Release priced at $150, some sellers play on the ‘Cult’ label and market dynamics and sell it for $200. Yet, it can be found discounted at $99, and often for less. 

The 2020 Cult is a blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc and a dash of Petit Verdot magic.

Winemaker notes - Crushed black currant and bing cherry aromas. Among these scents are black licorice, clove, and melted dark chocolate. Flavors of shortbread, blackberry, and plum hit the palate. Loamy black truffle elements add layers of savoriness to the long finish.

Garnet colored, medium full bodied, tightly structured, ripe black currant and blackberry fruits with notes of anise, clove spice and bitter dark chocolate and cedar with moderate tannnins on a lingering finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4476435

Monday, May 6, 2024

Mount Veeder Winery Cabernet with flank steak

Mount Veeder Winery Cabernet with grilled flank steak 

Wife Linda had several lady friends over for a cookout to visit with a friend returning from Florida having relocated there. She prepared flank steak and salmon with grilled vegetables. I set out a Sonoma Chardonnay for the ladies, then I dined separately and snuck a plate and opened a Napa Cabernet for my dinner wine pairing.  



Mount Veeder Winery Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 

This is from Mount Veeder Winery, named for the site of their estate and vineyards sitting at 1000 to 1600 feet elevation, high in the Mayacamas Mountains at the southern end of the range at the southwest corner of Napa Valley.

Owners and producers Michael and Arlene Bernstein were the first to plant grapevines on Mount Veeder in 1970. Encouraged by their friend and Napa legend Robert Mondavi, the Bernsteins established the first winery on Mount Veeder.

Back before the Mount Veeder AVA was established they were the first vintners in Napa Valley to plant Petit Verdot, and the first to plant all five of the classic Bordeaux varietals on the same property.

Mount Veeder Winery has three vineyard ranches and vineyards high up the Mayacamas Mountain where they produce powerful concentrated flavorful wines that express the mountain terroir. The mountain terroir microclimate is above the fog bank, exposed to the soft morning sun and protected from the afternoon heat by the surrounding mountains, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly. Late in the autumn growing season, the mountain's cool days and warm nights mean extra hang time.

Mount Veeder Winery Winemaker is John Giannini learned his craft over 15 years collaborating on several 100-point bottlings working under the tutelage of renowned winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown.

 My CellarTracker records show that this is the last bottle of a six pack I bought upon release nearly a dozen years ago. This is the estate label, from a long time producer, entry level priced for offering good QPR - quality price ratio, for a Napa Cabernet. They also produce some ultra-premium labels including one with fruit from the famous legendary ToKalon Vineyard. 

At a dozen years of age, the fill level, foil, label and most importantly the cork were all in pristine condition, This wine is probably at the apex of its drinking profile, and won’t improve with further aging. It is most likely entering the end of its drinking window and will start diminishing from age going forward, but still has a couple years left of acceptable drinking. Wine Enthusiast advised to hold it till 2015 or 2016, but not beyond that. Robert Parker advised to hold it for a decade, or more. Wine Spectator advised to drink it through 2022. 

This is the estate label, from a long time producer, budget priced for basic every day consumption, offering good QPR - quality price ratio, for a Napa Cabernet. 

This release is a Bordeaux (varietals) blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and a small amount of Petit Verdot and Malbec.

This release was awarded 90 points by Wine & Spirits and Wine Advocate who also tagged it a ‘Cellar Selection’.

Tonight’s tasting was largely consistent with my posting back in 2013 when I wrote, “I like this wine”, and gave it 90 Points - “This is a complex wine that changed its focus and revealed itself differently from initial opening to an hour later and moreso the next day. Its bold but lacks smoothness or polish. Deep, dark inky purple and garnet colored, medium-full bodied. An initial layer of intense slightly tart black cherry and ripe black currant fruits give way to full forward flavors of ripe plum with hints of caramel and with tones of anise and mocha. The lingering finish boasts vibrant complex layers of sweet oak, and tobacco with a touch of black olive on a firm tannin backbone.” 

Ten years later, the fruit was a bit more subdued giving way to black tea, pepper and cedar notes. 

RM 89 points. 


Sunday, May 5, 2024

Q39 BBQ KC and Altocedro Malbec

Q39 BBQ Kansas City and Altodecro Malbec for a perfect lunch food and wine pairing 

Visiting Kansas City, we sought authentic BBQ and were directed to Q39 BBQ, trendy BBQ eaterie on 39th Street in Kansas City’s Midtown, between the historic Westport neighborhood and the vibrant Crossroads arts district. 

Q39 Midtown features a rustic-urban style with an energetic bustling dining area, and friendly full-service bar. This is what BBQ in Kansas City is supposed to look like.


Q39 is Kansas City BBQ offers fresh ingredients, sliced-to-order brisket straight from the smoker, Certified Angus Beef burgers ground in-house daily, and wood-fired grill plates served from flame to table. 

Founded in 2014 by the late Rob Magee, who found a passion for cooking at an early age and went on to acquire the highest level culinary skills with a degree from the acclaimed Culinary Institute of America. Chef Rob went on to work in some of the finest kitchens across the country and sought to showcase the tastes of whatever region he was in. 

In 2000, Chef Rob moved to Kansas City to work as an Executive Chef for Hilton Hotels. He became obsessed with mastering the art of KC barbeque and in his spare time, assembled a competition barbeque team. Over the following decade, they ascended to the highest level of competitive barbeque in events across the country winning dozens of local competitions and national championships receiving numerous award and honors. There is a trophy case in the dining room that holds many of their ribbons and trophies from such competitions. 

Magee passed on in 2021 after a long battle with cancer but his legacy is continues, spearheaded by Executive Chef Philip Thompson, who brings the same determination, leadership and culinary skills, having worked for years abroad in some of the finest restaurants. Like Chef Rob, Chef Philip is a classically trained chef and spent 15 years as an executive chef at Hilton Hotels.

I ordered the Certified Angus Beef® Brisket - sliced smoked brisket and burnt ends with classic BBQ sauce with a side of baked potatoes. It was delicious, perhaps the best beef brisket I’ve ever had, or as good as. We also ordered a side of the string onion rings. 


For a wine accompaniment I ordered WBTG - Wine-By-the-Glass - an Argentinian Malbec. It was a fantastic pairing. 

Altocedro "Año Cero" Malbec, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina

Altocedro was founded in 1999 by visionary Karim Mussi. Third generation Lebanese immigrant, Karim and his family pioneered La Consulta, Uco Valley as a special place to make “born and raised” wines. 

Twenty years later, in 2019, Karim’s crazy idea became conventional wisdom when La Consulta was classified as one of Argentina’s few Geographic Indication (GI) Appellations. Altocedro is synonymous with outstanding La Consulta wine. Original old vine rootstocks, indigenous yeasts, hundred year-old concrete fermentation tanks, and Karim’s minimalist winemaking create true terroir-driven wines. 

Altocedro a family-owned and operated winery founded in 1999 by visionary Karim Mussi, a third generation Lebanese immigrant, Karim and his family pioneered La Consulta, Uco Valley as a special place to make “born and raised” wines. Located in the heart of what has emerged as the best place in Argentina to grow Malbec the Altocedro winery and vineyards are located in the growing region of La Consulta, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, one of the premier Argentine growing zones. La Consulta is located in the high altitudes of Mendoza sitting at 3300 feet elevation with long, warm summer days and incredibly cool nights that help Malbec vines build gorgeously pure, deeply ripe, and intense fruit flavors. 

Twenty years later, in 2019, Karim’s vision and pursuit was realized when La Consulta was classified as one of Argentina’s few Geographic Indication (GI) Appellations. Altocedro has become synonymous with outstanding La Consulta wine. 

Winemaker strived for this terroir-driven Malbec to be fresh, fruit-forward, and easy to drink. Altocedro means “tall cedar,” and represents both winemaker and owner Karim Mussi Saffie’s Lebanese-Argentine heritage, and a cedar tree which towers over the winery.  The name Altocedro pays homage to Karim’s roots. Cedar trees are considered sacred in the Lebanese culture, and they surround the Altocedro winery and estate vineyard. Altocedro branding features wine labels with a cedar tree on each label. 

Owner producer and winemaker Karim Mussi Saffie focuses on producing terroir-driven wines. Limiting production with sustainable growing practices and superb terroir has made Altocedro’ wines a cult-type wine in Argentina. 

La Consulta’s original old vine rootstocks today range up to 100 years of age! Using grapes from different subzones, indigenous yeasts, hundred year-old concrete fermentation tanks, and Karim’s minimalist winemaking create true terroir-driven wines. The name Altocedro pays homage to Karim’s roots. Cedar trees are considered sacred in the Lebanese culture, and they surround the Altocedro winery and estate vineyard.

The 2022 Altocedro 'Ano Cero' Malbec is 100% Malbec from vines that are over 30 years old. The farming is sustainably done by hand with all fermentations by native yeast. 30% of the wine was aged in French oak for 12 months and the wine was bottled unfiltered. 

All harvesting, sorting, and crushing are done in individual batches by hand using no machinery in the process. The vines range up to 70 years of age, with only 1,600 plants per acre, and strict harvesting of only 1.2 kg of grapes per vine. The extract is done with a gravity flow system developed at the winery over 100 years ago. One-third of the volume was matured in French and American oak barrels for 10 months.

Winemaker notes - “The nose opens up with a whole array of fresh summer berries; blueberry and raspberry with ripe plum and macerated strawberry. The aromatics show expressive hints of savory cracked pepper and flowers layered with hints of fresh herb, a touch of chocolate, and toasted vanilla. This wine is absolutely juicy with a balance between the rich fruit and zippy acidity!”

The 2022 vintage release was awarded 95 Points & Gold Medal at the 2023 Decanter World Wine Awards, 91 points by James Suckling and 90 points by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.

This was a spectacular wine representing extraordinary QPR - an excellent WBTG (Wine-by-the-glass) winelist offering, a perfect pairing with the hearty robust BBQ!

Dark purple colored, full bodied, concentrated, full, round, forward extracted juicy blackberry and black cherry and plum fruits with notes of floral, earthy cedar and pepper with chewy tannins on a full long finish. 

RM 92 points.  

Returning home, I checked Binny’s, our local beverage superstore, and they have three bottles of the 20 vintage of this label in stock which I intend to go grab today. 


Friday, May 3, 2024

Kansas City Beefsteak at George’s French Bistro Wine Bar Witchita

Kansas City Beefsteak at George’s French Bistro and Wine Bar Witchita 

We traveled to Kansas for an extended full weekend of activities including a wedding, visiting several Frank Lloyd Wright sites, and re-shooting an Arts and Crafts architectural site for a collaboration on an upcoming architecture book. 

We traveled to Witchita to visit the Frank Lloyd Wright Allen House, and other properties. While there we dined at George’s French Bistro and Wine Bar located in the College Hill neighborhood, not far from the historic architectural landmark sites. 

It is owned and operated by Chef George Youssef, formerly of Wichita’s Nouvelle Cafe and Uptown Bistro. Originally from Lebanon, Youssef got schooled in French cuisine in Quebec, Canada.

George’s looks and feels like a true Parisian bistro with its decorating and design, indoor and outdoor tables, crisp white table clothes, an open kitchen and gleaming brass-accented bar serving classically prepared bistro dishes served by waitstaff in traditional black vests and ties.



We were seated in the dining room and while we were dining, the bar and dining room started to fill up, and only when we departed, did we see they had opened the front doors to spill out to the patio.  

Normally we might opt for authentic French cuisine at such an establishment, but being in Kansas, we ordered the Kansas City filet of beefsteaks. They pronounce that “We proudly serve Creekstone Farms Premium Black Angus Beef. Our steaks are hand cut and cooked to your satisfaction. Creekstone Farms is famous throughout the world for their rich flavor.”

In French style, the steaks were accompanied by Parisian Potatoes (pomme Frits, fried potatoes), and haricot verts, (green beans). 

Each filet of beef was served with choice of sauces which included BURGUNDY DEMI GLACE - Red wine veal reduction, AU POIVRE - Brandy peppercorn, HOLLANDAISE - Butter, egg yolks, lemon juice, salt, cayenne pepper,  or L’ ENTRECÔTE  - Fresh thyme & thyme flowers, full cream, white anchovies, Dijon mustard, hazelnuts, butter, egg yolks, salt & pepper.

I went simple with the Demi Glace. Linda opted for both the Demi glacé and Au Poivre. Both were excellent.

Our steaks were superb, and the preparations were perfect! 

Readers of these pages know I prefer my beefsteak prepared “Pittsburgh” style … but rather than traditionally rare, I specify ‘hot pink center, Pittsburgh style, or charred slightly”. 

Tonight’s steak was perfect - an object lesson in ideal preparation to my liking! 

https://georgesfrenchbistro.com/

For a wine accompaniment pairing with our our dinner we ordered WBTG - Wines By The Glass, from the wine list. 

I ordered this Haut Lagarde, because a French Bordeaux Blend is my favorite pairing with beef. Moreover, I used to work with colleague Gary LaGarde, who had a distance ancestral relationship to the French wine producer of the same name. 

Les Hauts de LaGarde Bordeaux 2022

Winemaker: Maison Raymond

Appellation: A.O.C. Bordeaux

Location: Located in the Saint Laurent du Bois, Entre-Deux-Mers region, not far from the city of Bordeaux. The wines are sourced in the villages of Saint-Laurent-du-Bois, Saint-Martial, and Saint-Felix de Conclude

Dating back to  medieval times, the Raymond family have a long history of producing wine, dating back to 1850. The family property of the domaine du Château de Lagarde has been built up over the years by successive generations.

Varietal(s): 65 % Merlot, 25 % Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc

Ageing: 10% of the wine was aged in oak.

Vineyard Terroir: With close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, these vines are grown in a mild climate with lots of sunshine, regular rain, and clay-limestone soil, the vines and grapes are grown in the best conditions for Bordeaux varietals.

The wine was reviewed by Wine Enthusiast, Wine Spectator and Decanter. 

Published Tasting Notes: “A core of blackberry and black cherry preserves shows good energy as the flavors move through an anise- and sweet tobacco–tinged finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.

Attractive structured tannins and red fruits give this wine a good start in life. With the acidity, the dusty structure and the perfumed aftertaste, the wine will develop well. Wine Enthusiast

"Good fruit, raspberry and strawberry summery flavors from winemaker Lionel Raymond. A touch short but full of character, from a blend of 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc. Only indigenous yeasts used at this organic estate – the family has a full 180 hectares certified in the Entre Deux Mers region, with new cellars that are powered by 2,500m2 of solar panels.Decanter Magazine

Translucent ruby red hue with cool aromatics, green herbal notes, cedar, cypress, and red currant. Palate reveals ripe red fruit, red plums, raspberries, ripe blueberries, along with cigar box spice, pencil shavings, and a strong cypress note on the finish.

Beautiful crimson robe with intense purple reflections. This wine reveals great aromas of fresh fruits and spices. The fruitiness, roundness and tannic mouth give it a rare elegance.

The fruitiness, roundness and tannic mouth gives it a rare elegance. Ideal with pork roasts and your favorite cheese. A harmonious wine. This wine reveals great aromas of blackcurrant, blackberries and spices. Beautiful crimson robe with intense purple reflections. Enjoy with red meat, poultry, pasta dishes and your favorite cheese.

Varietal(s): 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc

Winemaker notes - “A core of blackberry and black cherry preserves shows good energy as the flavors move through an anise- and sweet tobacco–tinged finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Made with Organically Grown Grapes”

In 2000, Lionel Raymond purchased the Château Joumes Fillon organic vineyard. Because of Lionel’s strong beliefs in and respect for the environment and terroir, he decided to convert the whole vineyard (130 hectares) to organic agriculture. Most winemakers in the area thought he was crazy as it is twice the work of a conventional vineyard. Today, they are one of the largest organic wineries in Bordeaux, and part of the exclusive 7% of all wineries of the region who have made the organic commitment.

The Vineyards - The different properties of the domaine benefit from specific conditions: special orientation of the vineyards, composition of the soil, humidity, age of the vines…These conditions are refined during the winemaking allowing them to offer a large range of products. Over 20 people work in the vineyard and the cellars, and consistently looking for innovative techniques in terms of production, vintification with respect for the vines, soil and environment.

Vignobles Raymond produces classic varietals and Bordeaux blends: Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Another label, Le Petit du Château de Lagarde is 100% Merlot. 

This provided great QPR and was a wonderful pairing with the dinner. It was carefully selected for the winelist. 

Garnet colored, medium to full bodied, pleasant easy drinking, round flavorful complex black berry and black currant fruits with notes of black tea, tobacco, anise and spice. 

RM 88 points. 

For Linda, and her pairing with the filet of beef, we selected a Southern Rhône River Valley “GSM” (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) Red Blend. 

Cellier Des Dauphines Reserve Côtes du Rhône Grenache Syrah 2021

Another carefully selected, high QPR, pleasant easy drinking wine. 

This is produced by the Cellier des Dauphins, a collective, group of winegrowers called “Union des Vignerons des Côtes du Rhône” which is a collaboration since 1967 of 2000 winegrower families of the southern Rhone Valley. With 12 000 hectares of vines, and around twenty appellations, Cellier des Dauphins has become the leading wine producer in the Rhone Valley in less than 50 years.

Cellier des Dauphins has become one of France’s benchmark Rhône brands. Cellier des Dauphins is now the first producer of Organic wines in the Rhône Valley founded to serve a devotion to the protection the environment. 


This is a blend of Rhône varietals - 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah.

Winemaker Notes - “This wine displays a deep red hue with ruby tints and notes of sun-ripened black fruit on the nose. The palate offers a velvety texture and spicy notes underpinned by ripe black fruit, blackcurrants and black cherries. A more modern take on the traditional Côtes du Rhône style, this wine combines structure, freshness and smooth tannins. It has a seductively elegant, intense and long-lingering finish.”


Dark ruby/garnet colored, light medium bodied, tightly wound, structured complex black fruits with notes of black tea, spice, hints of black pepper and lavender notes on a pronounced lingering tannin laced acidic finish. 

RM 87 points.  

Sunday, April 28, 2024

Pour Boys gather for SoWal Wine Festival weekend in Destin

Pour Boys gather for SoWal Wine Festival weekend in Destin/Sandestin 

Several members of our Pour Boys wine group gathered in Destin (FL) for a festive wine weekend centered on the SoWal (South Walton Beaches) Wine and Food Festival. Our center of activities of wine dinners, swimming, beach walks and pickleball was The Cove, our Destin vacation rental home.

The annual SoWal festival lasts three days from Friday afternoon/evening through Sunday afternoon held on Grand Boulevard in Sandestin (FL) - the schedule and extensive activities are listed on-line here -  SoWal Wine Festival Activities


I wrote in separate blogposts in these pages about our wine dinners Thursday (Shiraz with BBQ Ribs at Pour Boys wine dinner), and Friday (Sea Market Crab Cakes anchor wine dinner) at The Cove, then Saturday night when we dined at The Chef’s Table in The Wine Cellar Room at the Wine Bar Restaurant in Destin

The festival offers attendees several options, to purchase passes for each day individually, or a VIP Pass that covers the entire event. We purchased the VIP pass but found the Saturday and Sunday events to be redundant with the Sunday event being less crowded and congested than Saturday. Also, several of the ultra-premium wines, which we’re most interested in, ran out on Saturday, and were restocked and brought out again on Sunday. 

An obvious and primary benefit of the VIP pass was access to the VIP Tent on Friday evening, which featured a broad selection of wines and “A Taste of Grand Boulevard” featuring culinary small plates from the local eateries including Emeril’s Coastal, PF Changs, Flemings, Tommy Bahama and others. 

Adjacent the VIP tent was the Wine Auction but it was unclear if or when VIP members were able to attend, a pity given our collective investment in deep broad wine cellars, and in wine and dine events and travel. 

On Saturday, the VIP Tent was transformed to the Culinary Village offering food and sparkling wines but it was closed due to an electrical system overload fire hazard, so we were never able to partake of whatever it had to offer. 

Saturday and Sunday on the Town Center Main Stage, there featured live music on the Nashville Songwriter’s Showcase. Performing each day were Aaron Barker and Bridgette Tatum, the Reeves Brothers and Scott Reeves annd The Casey Kearney Band.

There was a large contingent of volunteers pouring wines, a role we know well having served at the annual UGCB event for the past fifteen years, which has earned our wine group the Pour Boys (TM) moniker. 

The UGC Bordeaux (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)), annual release tour is put on by the Union, the association of 130+ members of the top premier wine producer estates from the most prestigious Bordeaux appellations. In cooperation with distributors, brokers and merchants they host over 80 events in fifteen countries visiting 65 cities to present their wines to some 50,000 or so professionals and wine lovers each year around the world.


Here is my blogpost of this year’s UGC tasting event -  UGCB 2021 Vintage Release Tour 2024 Comes to Chicago, and earlier years … https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/search?q=UGCB


Aside the volunteer pourers, the event attracted and offered the chance to meet several winemakers and producers and their representatives directly, which is always a highlight, almost as much as tasting the wines!  

There was another tent that featured Wine Tasting Seminars showcasing wines presented by the winemakers, producers or their ambassador representatives. These were subject to limited seating on a first come first served basis. 

The promotions for the event boast “six hundred plus wines presented by and poured by industry insiders”, and the different tastings included wines, as well as craft beers and spirits. 

Finally, there was a Retail Tent which offered for sale many of the wines being poured. We partook of this and each obtained several premium and ultra-premium wines.

For us, highlights of the event included:

Meeting winemakers, producers and their ambassadors …









And of course tasting some old favorites, and discovering some new wines!