Tensely Santa Barbara County Shiraz 2022

Tensely Santa Barbara County Shiraz 2022

We received our wine club allocation shipment of (2024) Tensley Santa Barbara County wines. So, I pulled from the cellar an older vintage bottle of the just received label, as part of cellar inventory management, to try. 

We enjoyed this with leftover ravioli and bolognese sauce, and the remains of my veal saltimbocca from our Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s in Chicago’s Little Italy, the other evening. 

Tensely Santa Barbara County Shiraz 2022

We discovered this producer and acquired their wines, and joined their wine club, during our visit to the Santa Maria Valley Foxen Canyon Wine Trail back in 2022. We saw their vineyards and then their tasting room in downtown Los Olivos, during our Wine Experience, chronicled in this blogpost at the time, excerpted here - Tensley Santa Barbara County Wines.

Tensley Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara County Wines

During our Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley Wine Experience, we drove the Foxen Canyon wine trail. On one of our stops, we were referred by one producer to check out Tensley Wines, which was near the estate we were visiting. 

We drove by the Tensley vineyards on Alisos Canyon Road, (shown left) which was closed, so we stopped in the Tensley Vineyards hospitality tasting room in downtown Los Olivos.

We first visited a central location serving as the confluence of many producers in Woodinville, Washington, during our Seattle/Woodinville Wine Experience, where over a hundred wineries have retail tasting facilities. 

The town of Los Olivos is all about winery tasting rooms with forty different producers having public retail facilities there. It is the anchor for the Santa Ynez Valley wine appellation, situated on State Road 154 just off the major Route 101, about thirty five miles north, inland, from Santa Barbara.

One of the great surprises of our Santa Barbara County, Santa Maria Valley wine experience was the revelation of Syrah being one of the lead varietals in the area. 

We were expecting to see Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which are predominant taking advantage of the cool climate being close to the coastal maritime effects. The cool coastal breezes run up the valleys of the mountains that run perpendicular to the coast. 

We were delighted to find several producers featuring or even specializing in Syrah, Tensley included. 

We taste a flight of their wines during our visit to the producer's hospitality tasting room downtown Los Olivos, where we were able to taste a flight of their Rhône varietals centered on their Syrahs.  

Readers of these pages know we're huge fans of Syrah as one of our favorite varietals for big fruit filled every day sipping as well as serious wine pairing with robust foods such as BBQ.

Joey Tensley launched Tensley Wines in 1998 with the goal to produce well-priced, Syrah-driven wines, by "sourcing the best fruit possible and let the unique vineyards of Santa Barbara County speak for themselves." 

The first release of Tensley totaled just 100 cases. By 2015, production had grown to 5,000 cases and included five single-vineyard Syrahs, the most in Santa Barbara County. Tensley Syrah’s have made the Wine Spectator’s Top 100, scored 99 points with Robert Parker, and won Food and Wine Magazine’s award for the “Top Syrah in America over $20.”

Joey’s first experience with wine took place when he was just twelve-years-old, when his soccer team toured a winery while taking part in a tournament in France. He vividly recalls the chill of the old caves and the aromas of wines fermenting in barrel. From that moment on he knew he wanted to be a winemaker. “Which pretty much made me the only kid in Bakersfield with that particular dream,” Joey says.

Joey got his start in the wine business working as a “cellar rat” for Fess Parker Winery in Santa Barbara County in 1993. Three years later, he became assistant winemaker at Babcock Vineyards. There, he came to appreciate the importance of the vineyard and the grower. 

Over time, Tensley also came to appreciate the uniqueness of Santa Barbara County as a growing region. “We’re one of the only places in the world with a mountain range that runs east-west. That gives us many different, unique micro-climates, so a Syrah grown in one place is so different from a Syrah grown in another. It’s an exciting place to make wine.”

In 1998, Joey became assistant winemaker at Beckmen Vineyards where he was also offered the chance to produce his own label. There, he developed his love for Rhône varietals and decided Tensley would produce only Rhône varietal wines, sourced solely from Santa Barbara County.

Tensley wines gained the attention of the wine press in 2001 when Matt Kramer of Wine Spectator named two of Tensley’s 2001 Syrah’s to his list of the Top Ten Wines in the World, and, Robert Parker scored all the ‘01’s in the high 90’s, calling them “serious, hand-crafted efforts.”

In 2008 Food and Wine Magazine named the Tensley 2006 Colson Canyon Syrah “Top Syrah in America Over $20.” Two years later, Robert Parker gave the 2008 Anniversary Series Colson Canyon Syrah 99 points, and The Wine Spectator named the 2008 Colson Canyon Syrah #17 of its Top 100 Wines in the World. The 2007 Colson Canyon Syrah was ranked #22 the year before

More recently Tensley received high praise and high scores from wine critics Josh Raynolds, James Laube, and Jeb Dunnuck. Dunnuck gave Tensley’s 2008 Syrah Noir 99 points and named Joey, “one of the rising superstars in California.”

I was not aware of this brand prior to this trip. It was a top discovery and revelation and may certainly be one of our go-to boutique labels going forward. We joined their wine club to obtain a supply of their labels from these tasted and going forward. 

After we returned to OC, we visited the two top wine shops, Total Wines and High Time in Cosa Mesa, the top independent merchant in the area. We were surprised and delighted to find Tensley wines on the shelves in both outlets.  

Three years later, more recently, we now are delighted to find Tensley at Total Wine and Binny’s Beverage Depot, our two ‘home’ wine superstores. 

Our Tensley tasting flight in Los Olivos included: 

• Laird Vineyard Marsanne 2021
• 'All Blocks' Estate Blend 2020 
• Colson Canyon Syrah 2020, and,
• Santa Barbara County Syrah 2020 - the then current release of this just received, and tasted wine.   

Tensley Santa Barbara County Syrah 2020

Winemaker Notes: "Every year the vineyard percentages change, yet the style remains the same. In 2020 we introduced Laird Vineyard to the blend. By adding this vineyard we continue to work with sandy cool sites to add freshness and savory notes to the final blend.' 

"We add complexity and power by including all of our single vineyard Syrah sources. At the end of the day, this wine is both powerful and fresh. It beams with bright acidy and saline notes, rounding out with blue and black fruits to make it generous, juicy and easy to drink. It will age 7-10 years, but do not hesitate to open and enjoy its freshness today." 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4091582

Tonight, we tasted the 2022 release of this label. 

Tensley Wines Santa Barbara County Syrah 2022

This release was awarded 94 points and"Top Buy: America's 30 Best Syrahs," by Decanter, 92-94 points by Jeb Dunnuck, 93 points by Erin Brooks of the Wine Advocate, and 92 points by Wine Spectator.

This label is 100% Syrah sourced from five different vineyard sites across the appellation with a diversity of terroir, providing a broad, bold and complex tasting profile. 2,100 cases were made.

Deep inky purple garnet colored, full-bodied, concentrated, dense, almost intense, full round, complex rich ripe blackberry and black raspberry fruits with savory layers of black olive, black pepper, cassis, black tea and sage with full approachable tannins on a moderately acidic finish. 

RM 92

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4747493

https://tensleywines.com/

https://twitter.com/tensleywine

@tensleywine 

Drouhin Chardonnay and Artisan Cheeses …

Drouhin Chardonnay and Artisan Cheeses … 

Watching ‘The Voice, Blind Auditions’ has become one of our enjoyable pursuits spending time together. We pulled out remains of the artisan cheeses we opened the other evening to enjoy. We featured that tasting in this blogpost - Pour Boys tasting red wines with blue cheese assortment.

Linda prepared some Brioche toast points with Shiraz Blackberry preserve/jam and olive oil with shaved parmigiana, and havarti cheese, along with a selection of crackers. 

I pulled from the cellar a rich round Oregon Chardonnay to enjoy for the occasion as wine pairing accompaniment. 

Drouhin Rose Rock Vineyard, Eola-Amity Hills Oreon Chardonnay 2022 

This is the American venture of legendary Burgundian producer Maison Joseph Drouhin, whose family have amassed and operated over 250 acres of some of the most prestigious ‘climats’ of Burgundy since 1880, combining the roles of négociant, producer, and above all, owner.

In 1921, Maurice Drouhin purchased his first plot in the terroir known as "Clos des Mouches," located at the southernmost tip of the Beaune appellation area, halfway between Corton-Charlemagne and Montrachet. 

Joseph Drouhin took over a long-established business in the historic heart of Beaune in 1918 at the age of 22 and progressed developing and expanding the estate with the ‘finest terroir’ in the region over the following forty years. 

In the 1950s, Joseph’s son Robert Drouhin studied Law in Paris and then pursued Literature in Heidelberg. He returned to Beaune to succeed Maurice, who was unwell, and became the president of Maison Joseph Drouhin at in 1957, at the young age of 24. Following in his father's footsteps, Robert Drouhin took over and continued to expand the family Domaine acquiring numerous Premier and Grand Crus Chablis vineyards, particularly in the Côte de Nuits. 

In the late 1960s, he expanded Drouhin’s presence there, acquiring nearly over 100 acres in the historic heart of the appellation including the XVIII-century Moulin de Vaudon. He established the House's oenology laboratory with one of Burgundy's first woman oenologists, Laurence Jobard. 

With 250 acres, Domaine Joseph Drouhin is currently one of the largest estates in the entire Burgundy wine region with estates spread across Chablis, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise, and Mâconnais. The estate comprises mainly Grand Crus and Premier Crus, planted with the two iconic Burgundian grape varieties: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

In 1987, Robert establish Domaine Drouhin in the Willamette Valley of Oregon with his daughter Véronique. In 1988, fourth generation Philippe Drouhin, the eldest son of Robert, took over leadership of the Drouhin estate. 

Today, three generations continue the legacy of Maison Joseph Drouhin, led by the four great-grandchildren of Joseph Drouhin. Philippe, Véronique, Laurent, and Frédéric, each holding key positions in the operations. Having grown in the vineyards alongside their father, they hold deep understanding of wine. The fifth generation is also beginning to emerge, with Laurène, the eldest daughter of Véronique, joined the House in 2020.

Through judicious acquisitions and family agreements, Domaine Drouhin produce a portfolio of Oregon Chardonnay and Pinot Noir; Domaine Drouhin Oregon Arthur Chardonnay, and this Drouhin Oregon Roserock Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills.

Their Pinot Noirs include Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir Laurène, Drouhin Oregon RoseRock Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills, and Drouhin Oregon Roserock Pinot Noir Zéphirine.

In 2003, Drouhin purchased the Rose Rock Vineyard at the southern part of the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, in the southern Willamette Valley of Oregon. The soils are volcanic, ancient, with an elevation between 120 and 260 meters above sea level. The ideal terroir benefits from a rather unique cooling effect called the Van Duzer corridor and which makes it possible to produce classic Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, typical of cool climates. 

Drouhin Rose Rock Eola-Amity Hills Chardonnay 2022

This single vineyard designated label is from three select blocks of the Drouhin estate Rose Rock Vineyard.

Tasting Notes by winemaker Véronique Boss-Drouhin - “Nice bouquet with intense floral notes and a discreet touch of hazelnuts. Nice dynamics in the mouth. A wine that has a generous breadth and an attractive finish.“

This label release was awarded 94 points by James Suckling, 93 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast and 92 points by Vinous. 

Pale golden straw colored, light to medium bodied, rich, round, vibrant savory notes of Asian pear, green apples, spiced cinnamon, nut and hints of quince, ginger and rosemary spice on a bright expressive acidic finish. 

RM 92 points

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?4815383

https://www.drouhin.com/en_US/wine/drouhin-oregon-roserock-chardonnay-eola-amity-hills/2022

Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s in Chicago’s Little Italy

Wine & Dinner at Bruna’s Ristorante in Chicago’s Little Italy for classic authentic Italian cuisine and wine 

We ventured into the city (Chicago) to attend grand-daughter’s traveling soccer game in the Pilsen, ‘heart of Chicago’ neighborhood with views of the spectacular skyline in the distance. 

After the game, we ventured in to the historic ‘Little Italy’ ‘business’ neighborhood of south Oakley street for dinner. For literally decades, we’ve traveled to Taylor Street, the traditional popular ‘Little Italy’ restaurant district, as we watched the diminishment and closure of the classic historic trattorias there over the years. Indeed, the remaining restaurant that we now frequent there is Chez Joel, a classic French bistro. 

I’m frustrated and regret that somehow we missed or lost track of, and have overlooked this historic Italian ‘business’ neighborhood on South Oakley street, that still features no less than five historic authentic Italian restaurants clustered together on this street. Linda reminded me we dined there together with friends no less than thirty years ago. And, before that, she worked for a brief period just four blocks away and used to dine there with colleagues from work.  

We were delighted to rediscover this historic neighborhood that had blocked off South Oakley street between 24th Street and 24th Place to accommodate dinners on this exceptional, spectacular end of summer, autumn evening.    

We dined at Bruna’s Ristorante, situated on the corner of 24th Place and Oakley. Opened by Bella ‘Bruna’ Cani  in 1933 – the same year prohibition was repealed, it is the third-oldest Italian restaurant in Chicago. (Of course readers of these pages know we feature often Italian Village, THE oldest Italian Restaurant in Chicago.)

The story goes that when Bruna wasn’t cooking for her patrons, Bruna would dance on the bar while her customers sang. Bruna’s legacy continued as, until recently, you could find her daughter Marylyn (Mickey), who passed away in 2013 at the age of 94, relaxing on a neighborhood bench when the weather was right.

Bruna sold the restaurant in 1981 to Luciano Silvestri who shared her same heritage, being from the central Italian region of Tuscany, and shared a passion for authentic Italian food. Luciano still prepares many of Bruna’s original recipes, while also introducing several of his own family’s prized Italian dishes.

Current owner Luciano is a native of Siena, Italy, and has worked in the restaurant industry from a young age, working extensively in Switzerland and London. Before coming to Chicago in 1977, Luciano worked at the renowned Villa d’Este resort in Como, Italy, as well as on the Sitmar and Princess cruise lines.

Today, Bruna’s offers a wide assortment of pasta dishes, tender veal, and, of course, Bella Bruna’s original roast chicken recipe, still served every Sunday. They also boast what many say is the city’s best tiramisu, which Luciano makes himself.

Luciano remains involved greeting customers as well as pouring wine and making espresso.

We dined al fresco on the barricaded street, set up with the tables for diners from the group of restaurants up and down the block on both sides of the street.  

Following fresh Italian bread with virgin Olive Oil and fresh parmigiana cheese, Linda ordered from the classic authentic Italian menu for her entree, the appetizer bowl of fresh mussels in white wine sauce. 

We were served by Josef who has been on the waitstaff there for a mere seventeen years, having also worked previously at the legendary former Como Inn, another Chicago Italian cuisine institution in its day. He followed his father who also served in the notable Italian restaurants in the city and the neighborhood. 

At Josef’s recommendation, I ordered from the Chef’s Specialties, Veal Saltimbocca Alla Romana from the broad selection of Veal and Chicken dishes on offer, along with a side dish of Fettucini Alfredo.

Bruna’s offers an extensive wine list featuring mainly Italian wines with some Californian selections. Bruna’s also imports a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a wine made near Luciano’s Italian hometown which is offered by the glass and by the bottle.

They also offer a full page Reserve “Cellar Selections” that includes many classic premier Italian producers and labels including Biondo Santi, Casanova de Neri, Masseto, Gaja, Solaia, Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Valdicava and Tignanello. 

The Cellar Selections Reserve list also offered well known super premium American California classics including Dominus, Quintessa, Phelps Insignia, Opus One, Schafer Hillside, Caymus Special Select, Plumpjack, Far Niente, Groth Reserve and Darioush. 

We ordered this classic traditional Chianti Classico Sangiovese as a perfect wine accompaniment to our Italian cuisine. 

Isole e Olena "Cepparello" Toscana 2018

This highly regarded Isole e Olena is from producer/winemaker Paolo de Marchi. Isole e Olena is named for the formation of the two estates that were purchased by the De Marchi family in the 1950s. 

Fourth generation winemaker Paolo De Marchi studied Agriculture at the University of Turin and worked harvests in California and France before returning to the family estate in 1976. He improved the property in the Chianti Classico region through redevelopment and modernization.

De Marchi earned a reputation as “Mr. Sangiovese” and also the “Dean of Chianti” gaining notoriety balancing tradition with innovation by planting international varieties. 

This label of Cepparello was first produced in 1980 and is widely acclaimed as one of the greatest expressions of Sangiovese.  

He sold the estate and completed his last vintage for Isole e Olena in 2022 after 50 years. His final releases got rave reviews with ratings in the high nineties - the 2021 getting 99 points from James Suckling, 97 from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 96 points from Wine Spectator. 

Winemaker notes and description of the complex 2015 Cepparello: “Shows lots of black cherries, cranberry tea, caramelized orange peel, roasted herbs and citrus peel. Full-bodied with ripe and quite round tannins that frame layers of cherries. Bright and fresh, yet rich and long at the same time. The Sangiovese character really springs out of the glass.”

This 2018 Isole e Olena "Cepparello" Toscana was rated 96 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 95 points by James Suckling, 94 points by Decanter and Vinous, and 92 by Kerrin O’Keefe.

This was my first experience with this producer and I’ll be on the lookout for it in the future while the current era vintages are still available. 

Dark red/purplish colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated, bold, bright expressive bright dried cherry and dark berry fruits, notes of cassis, balsam herb spice, lavender finishing with menthol and exprsso with round tannins on a savory slightly aggressive expressive finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3956336

We moved to dessert - Linda ordered the Cannoli and I had the Tiramisu. Both were delicious. Linda raved about the Cannoli - said it was the best ever!

https://www.brunasristorante.com/

Pour Boys ‘Winers & Diners’ Gala Wine Dinner

Pour Boys ‘Winers & Diners’ Gala Cityscape Wine Dinner    

Our Pour Boys wine group gathered in Chicago at Lyle and Terry’s for their nearly annual ‘Winers & Diners’ Cityscape end of summer wine dinner. On a beautiful waning summer/autumn evening, we started on their fabulous deck with partial views of the city skyline, for hors d'oeuvres, appetizers and soup.  

Joining the host and hostess Lyle and Terry, and daughter Abbie, were John coming in from Williamsburg, Ernie, Dan and Linda, coming in from Indiana, Beth and Bill, coming in from Charleston, Leslie and Jorg, and Linda and me (not shown, taking picture).

As usual, Terry and Lyle assisted by their niece, Adrienne Busatti, prepared and served a spectacular extensive menu for the fabulous formal sit-down dinner.

Appetizers: 

Hot individual grilled lamb ribs

Cold shrimp with cocktail sauce

Cheezes, crackers, multiple preparations of deviled eggs, 

Spicy pumpkin soup 

Dinner:

Grilled tenderloin of beef 

Garlic red potatoes

Suspiciously delicious cabbage

Charred asparagus with bacon & truffle salt

Dessert course:

Terry’s incredible signature Mandarin orange cake 

Aunt Iris's Ohio Apple cake

Profiteroles filled with ice cream and sauces or fruit

Followed by Autumn chocolates. Fresh raspberries, shelled pistachios and mixed nuts on the table …

As usual we assembled a fabulous wine flight for each course of the evening starting with Champagnes, White Wines, Red Wines and finishing with Vintage Port. 

John O'Brien rejoined the group traveling in from Williamsburg, and ‘Champagne John’ brought his customary flight of ultra-premium Champagnes -

Krug Brut Champagne 2004 

Bollinger La Grande Annee Champagne 2015

We were rejoined by Jorge and Leslie Balandrin who brought from their home cellar a selection of fabulous ultra-premium white wines …

La Poussie Sancerre 2022

E. Guigal La Doriane Condrieu 2023

Kongsgard Napa Valley Carneros Chardonnay 2021

We then moved to a broad extensive flight of reds featuring red blends from the Right Bank, then the Left Bank of Bordeaux, following by a line-up of usual suspects, our favorite producers’ flagship labels. 

As usual, I spent time carefully preparing and tasting the wines to establish the suggested tasting order for the evening, as shown below, accordingly, which was curated and validated throughout the evening:

 

Château Larmande St Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2005

Château Lafon Rochet St Estephe Grand Cru Classe 2005 

Château Leoville Las Cases Grand vin Leoville du Marquis St Julien 2016 

Château Cos d’Estournel St Estephe Grand Cru Classe 2009

Moving to the Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons … 

Plumpjack Founder’s Reserve Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 1996

Hall Wines Napa Valley Kathryn Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 

Beaulieu Vineyards Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Bosche’ Vineyard Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

 Following with the dessert course accompaniment:

Niepoort Vintage Port 1997 

Many thanks to Lyle and Terry for hosting, and to those that traveled from afar, and to everyone for bringing some spectacular wines for a joyous and memorable evening. 

PS. 

Notes and Notable - 

WOTN - Wine of the Night for several (including me) was the Phelps Insignia - dark and brooding, big bold expressive firm structured full bodied black fruits with notes of cedar, cigar box, dark mocha chocolate - actually a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon with 9% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Biggest and most expressive Insignia ever experienced. 

Second WOTN - Crowd Pleaser …. Kathryn Hall - dark garnet colored, sensuous, silky smooth polished, elegant, opulent, sweet ripe dark berry fruits with sweet mocha, sweet tannins - another blend - 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot.

Another WOTN candidate - Cos d’Estournel - bright garnet - medium to full bodied, surprisingly big, bold, forward and expressive black berry fruits - sumptuous round smooth tannin laced finish. Best Cos on memory! 

Freemark Abbey Bosche’ - surprisingly big, bold, forward, expressive black berry & cherry fruits - almost obtuse, needed time to settle - more approachable on day two. 

BV Georges de Latour - Surprise high achiever - big bold, expressive, complex, earthy, smoky dark berry fruits with notes of black tea, creosote and tobacco on moderate tannin finish. 

Leoville Las Cases - Surprisingly subdued, lacking bold or expressive sprites - elegantly balanced - perhaps going through remissive closed phase …  flawless?

Plumpjack Founders Reserve - Going on thirty - fill level and cork still pristine - dark garnet - barnyard funky on opening, needed decant and two hours to reveal full round black berry fruits with spice, tobacco, cedar and leather finish. Also better on day two. 

Pour Boys tasting red wines with blue cheese assortment

Pour Boys Wine Weekend Kick-off continues with red wine tasting with blue cheese assortment 

Following our Pour Boys Wine Weekend Kick-off Dinner, early dinner on the eve of our Pour Boys ‘Winers & Diners’ Gala Wine Dinner, we came home and had a relaxed evening socializing, catching up, and sipping some wines with artisan cheeses and fresh fruits. 

Inspired by the special feature in the current issue of Wine Spectator on blue cheeses paired with wines, I had gone out and picked up selection of Murray’s Blues - Cotswald, Cave Gorgonzola, Blue Stilton and Smokehaus Blue. We enjoyed these with assorted biscuits/crackers and fresh berries, pears and apples. 

All of these were fabulous and enhanced the wine pairing with the red wines. I especially liked the Cotswald and the Blue Stilton! 

We have many wines in our cellar acquired with fellow Pour Boy Bill, or tasted at special tastings or wine producer visits together. So it is that we pull these to revisit with Bill when the occasion arises. One such wine is from Arns on Howell Mountain that we visited together during our Napa Wine Experience in 2013 as featured in this blogpost - Arns Napa Valley Estate Vineyards Visit. We tasted and acquired this label at the winery that day.

Here we are with John Arns in the Arns Winery and Vineyarda barrel room. 

Arns "Estate Grown" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 

We first discovered Arns in Washington DC at Andy Bassin’s MacArthur Wines. Co-producer Sandy Belcher hails from Virginia and would take wine back to supply MacArthurs during her pilgrimages home. 

This release was part of the flight of Arns Cabs we tasted and subsequently acquired at the winery during our visit in 2013. 

This release was rated 92 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and 90 points by Connoisseur’s Guide, 89 points by Wine Enthusiast.

Dark garnet colored with purple hues, medium to full-bodied, focused, concentrated, structured blackberry and blackcurrant fruit flavors with notes of dark mocha chocolate, cassis and expresso on a lingering tannin laced finish. 

RM 91 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2445860

Another joy of having a cellar collection is to share favored wines with friends. Trolling the cellar, Bill came across and was eager to try this producer label which we opened to enjoy with the cheeses and fruits. 

Long Shadows Vintners Collection Pirouette 2017

We’re members of the Long Shadows wine club and hold nearly a decade of vintages of their various label releases.

Checking our cellar inventory, we hold nearly a decade of vintages of this label so we pulled one of the oldest in our holdings, and one year adjacent to a recent earlier release tasting. We supplemented our wine club allocation with several bottles of this label acquired at auction, which we opened tonight. 

As I wrote in a recent blogpost - Pirouette Red Blend at Sullivan’s Steakhouse Naperville, this is one of our favorite labels for a Bordeaux varietal red blend, a sleeper, not well known or sufficiently regarded, given the pedigree of the winemaker and the quality of the product. 

This is the Bordeaux varietal red blend from the Long Shadows Vintners's Collection that features world class winemakers and Washington State Columbia Valley fruit. 

This label is produced in collaboration with legendary winemakers Philippe Melka, named one of the top nine winemakers in the world by Robert Parker, and Agustin Huneeus, Sr., another legendary wine producer. 

We visited their initial collaborative project, August Huneeus’ Quintessa Vineyards, crafted by Philippe Melka, as part of our Napa Valley Wine Experience back in 2003.  

I’ve written about Philip Melka numerous times in these pages including that tasting at Sullivan’s Steakhouse post and previously - Château Boswell Napa Valley Estate Reserve Red Wine 2016. I featured Huneeus in a recent blogpost here - Faust Napa Cab with St Pat’s Dinner.

We’ve featured Long Shadows and their vintners collection in these pages, including our visit to their hospitality center and tasting room in Woodinville (WA), as part of Seattle Wine and Dine - Washington State Wines Tastings in Woodinville.

The 2017 Pirouette is a left-bank Bordeaux blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 13% Malbec, and the rest Petit Verdot, crafted from small lots from Washington State's finest vineyards.  It was aged 22 months in French oak barrels with 85% being new.

 

Winemaker notes - “The Cabernet Sauvignon, primarily sourced from a collection of Red Mountain’s best vineyards, gives Pirouette the structure and textured richness that has come to characterize this acclaimed growing region. A small percentage of old vine Cabernet from Sagemoor Vineyard, planted in 1972, adds complexity. Merlot brings juicy richness to the finished wine. Malbec from Sonnet Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills adds spice. Finally, Dionysus Vineyard’s Petit Verdot enhances the wine’s color and contributes to the wine’s layers of intense aromas and flavors.’

“The 2017 Pirouette has an expressive nose with a firm core of dark fruit and mocha flavors, displaying a layered concentration of black cherry and well-integrated oak spices. Vibrant and full-bodied across the mid-palate, this is a texturally pleasing wine with a broad and lengthy finish.” 

This was a blockbuster release, rated 96 points by Jeb Dunnuck and International Wine Report, 94 by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and 93 by Steve Tanzer.

Dunnuck wrote - “It can be drunk today but will develop additional complexity with 3-4 years of bottle age and keep for two decades or more.”

Dark ruby colored, full bodied, vibrant expressive expressive vibrant blackberry, plum and black currant fruits with savory accents of cinnamon and clove spice, bitter dark chocolate and crème de cassis with smooth polished tannins on a sumptuous finish.

RM 94 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/w?3581703

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3581703

https://longshadows.com/library/pirouette/6951

https://longshadows.com/

@LongShadowsWine

@unwindwine

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2025/04/big-reds-with-tomahawk-beefsteaks.html?spref=tw

Pour Boys Wine Weekend Kick-off Dinner

Pour Boys Wine Weekend Kick-off Dinner at Entourage DG

In town for our Pour Boys Wine Group Fall Winers & Diners Gala dinner, Bill and Beth C came in from Charleston and stayed with us. 

We kicked off the weekend taking them to our latest favorite restaurant, Entourage DG for Friday afternoon dinner. 

On a beautiful exceptionally warm autumn afternoon, we dined 'al fresco‘, outside on the bustling sidewalk, across the street from and overlooking the train station amidst the high energy continuous commuters off the express trains arriving from downtown (Chicago). 

We had from our usual favorite “Social Hour” special selections, the Focaccia Bread and Deviled Eggs, along with the Spring Rolls. 

For our entrees, we all ordered their delicious Waygu Beef sliders, Filet Medallions with Horseradish Cream, Pickled Onion, Oven Roasted Roma Tomato and Arugula on a Mini Brioche bun.
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For a wine accompaniment, we ordered with the starters, from the wine list, the Kokomo Sonoma County Chardonnay. Then, with the beef entrees, I brought BYOB from our home cellar this Napa Cabernet Big Red Blend.

We’ve featured this wine in numerous previous blogposts as excerpted here.

Kokomo “Peter’s Vineyard” Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast California Chardonnay 2023

This is from family owned and operated Kokomo Winery that was started by Owner and Winemaker Erik Miller in 2004, a fellow Hoosier, who named it after his hometown of Kokomo, Indiana, which is near Linda’s hometown and family farm in North Central Carroll County, Indiana.

The Winery sits on the East side of Dry Creek Valley, twenty miles north of Santa Rosa, off the main route 101, midway between the towns of Healdsburg and Geyserville. The winery and tasting room is located at Timber Crest Farms, sitting amid 120 acres of vineyards, overlooking the valley.

Kokomo produces over a dozen different varietal wines and several single vineyard designated labels which are farmed by his partner in the winery, grower Randy Peters. Kokomo Wines strive to showcase the terroir of the their vineyard sources in the three distinctive appellations of Sonoma County - Russian River, Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys. They also offer some wines sourced from the Sonoma Valley Moon Mountain District.

This Peter’s Vineyard Designated label is 100% Chardonnay sourced from a site in the Russian River Valley, west Sebastopol, next to Luther Burbank's Farm where the soil is rich with Goldridge sandy loam. There the vines are exposed to consistent coastal fog, which calls for extended hang time and more development for the fruit.

I was a bit hesitant to order this bottle, especially to be paired with such a magnificent dinner, since our awareness of Kokomo is more modest entry level wines, less discriminating than the premium and ultra-premium labels we tend to enjoy.

We see their entry level labels widely distributed but have never had any of their more premium labels. Note they show two dozen different offerings on their website. Never-the-less I gave it a shot and found it to be an over-achiever to my perception of the brand, meeting our hopeful expectations for suitably pairing with our dinner.

Kokomo “Peter’s Vineyard” Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast California Chardonnay 2023

Winemaker notes for this release - “Planted in West Sebastopol, this is a premier location for Chardonnay. The vineyard is next to Luther Burbank’s Farm and the soil composition is rich Goldridge Sandy Loam. With the consistent coastal fog extending hang time well into October, this fruit is fully developed and loaded with complexity. The Chardonnay is comprised of Clones 4 and 76.’

Continuing, Winemaker notes for this release remain the same as with the previous vintage: “Reminiscent of a classic white Burgundy but with a California twist, this Chardonnay displays vibrant minerality accompanied by the mouth-watering natural acidity typically found in Peters Vineyard. Stirring the lees (Sur Lie) was performed to this lot consistently once per week through malolactic fermentation. We feel like this gives the wine body, texture and depth while maintaining its graceful acidity and restraint. This Chardonnay is elegant enough to pair with delicate foods and delicious enough to drink by itself after a long day.”

This is 100% Chardonnay, Sourced from Russian River Valley Appellation, and was aged 11 months in 100% French Oak, 30% New..

While I gave it the same rating, this release had a slightly different profile.


Straw colored, light to medium bodied, tangy crisp acidity highlights a predominant layer of vanilla that overshadowed the subtle pear, spice and peach tones of the earlier release, accented by light sprites of oak on a pleasurable moderate finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5165863

https://www.kokomowines.com/store/?view=product&slug=23ch

https://www.kokomowines.com/

As noted above, we followed with the beef entrees, this Napa Cabernet Big Red Blend that I brought BYOB from our home cellar.

Rubissow Napa Valley Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

We visited the Rubissow estate vineyards and winery, high atop Mount Veeder, with Bill and Beth as well as Eric and Cathy and Dan and Linda, from our Pour Boys wine group during our Napa Valley Mount Veeder Wine Experience back in 2011. 

I featured that estate visit and tasting in these pages in this blogpost, excerpted here:

Mt Veeder Appellation Trail - Rubissow Mt Veeder Vineyards

Mt Veeder Appellation Trail - Rubissow Mt Veeder Vineyards 

As was our custom, learned over the years after many trips to wine country, we learned to focus and concentrate on but one appellation per trip. Too often, folks try to take in too much, visiting properties geographically disbersed resulting in racing from one site to the next, traveling distances against the clock to meet the next appointment. 

This trip, we concentrated on just the Mount Veeder appellation, vastly simplifying travel from site to site, literally starting at the top of the mountain and working our way down to the valley.  

Named for the mountain at the southern end of the Mayacamas Mountain range that forms the western wall of Napa Valley, Mount Veeder is Napa’s largest sub-AVA. 

While the entire appellation is spread over 16,000 acres, vineyards cover only about 1,000, primarily in the the upper elevations of the Mayacamas Mountain, the highest point being at 2,400 feet.

Back at that time, only about 25 wineries produced wine from Mount Veeder fruit.

Mount Veeder was one of the earliest wine producing areas in Napa County with winemaking in the appellation dating back to 1864, when Captain Stelham Wing presented the first Mount Veeder wine to the Napa County Fair. That came from what remains today as Wing Canyon Vineyard. 

After the Prohibition interruption of the wine trade, viticulture and wine production was revitalized with the founding of Mayacamas Vineyards in 1951 and Bernstein Vineyards in 1964.

One of the highlights of our Napa Valley Mt Veeder appellation wine experience was our visit to Rubissow Vineyards. 

We also visited Yates Family Vineyards and Winery high atop Mt Veeder. 

Rubisow was founded by George Rubissow and Tony Sargent back in the 1960's when George also struck up a friendship with, and gained invaluable advice from the legendary winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff. They developed the Mt.Veeder estate and planted Bordeaux varietals. 

When we visited back in 2011, after twenty-five years, George was in the process of handing over operations of the vineyards and production to the next generation, Ariel and Peter Rubissow who were in their third year carrying on the family tradition of quality crafted mountain vineyard wines.

George Rubissow and the original 
Rubissow Sargent Label. 

Rubissow Wine Flight

This label was among the flight of wines we tasted that day and was arguably, the WOTN - Wine of the Night(Day). :

Rubissow Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

While this is labeled a Cabernet Sauvignon, appropriate since it is more than 75% of that varietal, this is actually a Bordeaux Blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot , 3% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot.

Out tasting notes from that original tasting: 

Complex, concentrated, full bodied - winemaker notes - deep brambly richness, black currant, graphite, clove, kirsch, raspberry jam, smoke, dark caramel.

RM 92 points.

Winemaker Notes -  On the nose, this wine offers aromas of red cherry, blueberry, plum, mocha, vanilla bean and caramel -- with hints of lavender, rosemary and raspberry leaf. A youthful mountain wine with amazing complexity. The palate shows plum, cherry and raspberry flavors, with good tannins and bright acidity.

This was rated 92 points and a Cellar Selection by Wine Enthusiast

Tonight, at 20 years, the label, foil, and most importantly the fill level and the cork, were still in good condition, although the cork was starting to soften. 

Amazingly consistent with that original tasting back in 2011, this was still drinking at its prime and has several more years of prime drinking yet. 

Much as noted earlier, Dark garnet colored, full bodied, complex, dense, concentrated, deep brambly black currant fruits with earthy tobacco and leather, graphite, clove spice, kirsch, smoke and hints of dark bitter chocolate on the long slightly astringent tannin laced finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1042516

The Rubissow hilltop vineyard looks south to the Carneros District with views in the distance of Mt Diablo to the west of San Francisco Bay and Mt Tamalpais in Marin, to the north of the Golden Gate. 

Rubissow Hilltop Vineyard looking out to San Pablo Bay

George telling the Rubissow Story to porch tasters

Rick and Linda with George Rubissow

Rick and Bill with George Rubissow

Rubissow Hilltop Vineyard

Rubissow Road Vineyard

Tasting on the porch at Rubissow

Rubissow's Barbara Jura leading estate grounds walk

https://entouragerestaurant.com/downers-grove/

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I brought BYOB from our home cellar this Napa Cabernet blend