After Dinner Trio - El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010 Warres Filhot

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010 stands up to after dinner wine flight medley that includes a Warre's Vintage Port and a Chateau Filhot Vintage Sauterne Dessert Wine  

Following our Chicago Restaurant Week dinner at Vie Restaurant in Western Springs we came home and had some chocolates, fruits and cheeses with a trio of after dinner wines - a Warre's vintage port, a Chateau Filhot Sauterne dessert wine and Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010.  

As shown, the two dessert wines were from 375 ml half bottles. 

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2010 

After tasting the Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2014 at the Corkscrew wine shop in Springfield last week, I was inquisitive to try another vintage so I pulled the oldest one from our cellar, the 2010. 

Amazingly this big bold red blend stood up to the trio of wines that included the Warres single vineyard vintage port and the Sauterne.

I thought the older Clio was even better and liked it even more than the '14, perhaps since it was four years older and more settled, but also, because I thought the 2010 was more complex with notes of ripe sweet blue fruit to complement the layer of concentrated full bodied black raspberry, and with a bit more sweetness which I also like. Still, like the 2014, it also had that dark chocolate, hint of vanilla, almost caramel like, finishing with smooth polished sweet tannins on the long smooth finish. A powerful, decadent but smooth approachable wine.

Like the '14, the 2010 Clio is also a blend of 70% old-vine Monastrell with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon.

RM 94 points. 

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar gave this 92 point, Wine Spectator 91 points, and Robert Parker Wine Advocate 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1467288

Next to the Clio we also had these two big forward dessert wines, both from half bottles.


Warres Porto Vintage Quinta da Cavadinha 1995


Consistent with earlier tasting notes. Dark coffee color - full bodied, a bit of an edge of sweet black fruits, layer of smokey creosote with hint of expresso, cedar and cassis and dark black cherry on the finish.

From a half bottle.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3721

Château Filhot Sauternes - 2ème Grand Cru Classé 1988

Trolling the cellar with Dr Dan looking for some after dinner wines, I found this perfectly suited vintage Sauterne that I must admit was not registered in my Cellartracker wine database inventory. I don't remember purchasing this wine or having had it previously. This should not be surprising with more than a thousand bottles in the cellar. Perhaps what is more surprising is how seldom this happens.

Château Filhot is a classic Sauterne Bordeaux, having been classified a 'second growth', a Grand Cru Classe', back in the original 1855 Bordeaux producer classification. The vineyards date back to the 1630's and the château was founded by Romain de Filhot in 1709. According to Wikipedia, after the French revolution, the estate was taken over by Romain-Bertrand de Lur-Saluces who added the estate of Pinaud du Rey and had the château redesigned to its English appearance in 1840.

Legend has it that Thomas Jefferson drank this wine and ranked it directly behind the legendary Chateau d'Yquem. During that time, Filhot enjoyed a greater reputation than today, and the two wines were comparably priced. This was during the time that Jefferson was American ambassador to France. He spent much time there and traveled the wine regions. He became a great admirer and oenphile of French wines. He actually brought back grape vines and labored unsuccessfully to grow them in Virginia at his Monticello estate.


In 1935, Comtesse Durieu de Lacarelle (the sister of the Marquis de Lur-Saluces, proprietor of Château d'Yquem) bought the estate, which was subsequently modernised by her son, Louis Durieu de Lacarelle, during the 1970s. The estate is currently run by the Vaucelles family.

Today Filhot vineyards cover 150 acres on the 700 acre estate with the grape varieties of 60% Sémillon, 36% Sauvignon blanc and 4% Muscadelle. Their annual production is an average of 6500 cases. They also produce a second label wine called Chateau Pineau du Rey.

For an almost thirty year old wine, the 1988 was still light golden honey colored. These wines start out straw colored and darken with age. I would have expected it to be weak tea colored at least, or even darker. It was medium-full bodied, crisp and clear with complex notes of honey and pineapple aromas with what Robert Parker called a "fine underlying acidity, an earthiness that added to the wine's complexity, and a clean, rich, crisp finish". This was more subdued and not as sweet or unctuous as a d'Yquem or other popular premium Sauterne. It was very pleasant and enjoyable none-the-less. It would be nice with soft moderate cheeses or even a salad course.

RM 88 points. Robert Parker also gave this 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=97425

Vie Restaurant Western Springs Restaurant Week Price Fixe Dinner

Vie Restaurant Western Springs Restaurant Week Price Fixe Dinner w/ Wine Flight

For the annual Restaurant Week Chicago, participating restaurants offer special price fixe dinners to introduce patrons to their venue and cuisine. Typically, these offer great value dining opportunities and sell out very quickly. Once again, we dined at Vie Restaurant in nearby Western Springs and invited Dr Dan and Linda to experience one of our west suburban dining gems.

We also took advantage of their wine accompanying tasting menu.

This was a bit of a fluke since while reviewing the menu and pairings, Dan notice Bacchus as the wine selection for the entree course. Having a collection and being a big fan of Phelps Bachus, he jumped on the choice and we all followed.

Naturally this was most likely a coincidental sleight of convenient confusion between two labels of similar name. Of course the ultra-premium Bachus would not be featured by the glass, let alone at the price fixe pricepoint. Probably innocence rather than deception since only but a few would likely consider this to be an option. Never-the-less, we didn't consider the variation and jumped on the feature offering.

Vie's Restaurant Week Menu

FIRST
celery root and apple crostada, crispy chicken skin, smoked apple butter
or
kielbasa, sauerkraut, sweet and sour turnips, mustard

SECOND
sweet potato soup, pickled cherry bomb peppers, chicharrons, crème fraiche - this was incredible - tasty, nicely presented and amazing in the unique cherry bomb peppers that exploded on the palate with tiny bursts of spicy heat, almost to vanish as quickly so as not to be offending in any way. 
or
roasted beets, gorgonzola, marmalade vinaigrette, grilled greens, sunflower seeds

THIRD
cdk beef combination: wood-grilled sirloin and shaved italian beef, fried giardiniera, smashed potatoes, kale, grilled onions, “juice” - interesting combination, novel, but not something I would choose for an elegant dinner entree
or
catfish piccata, brown butter basmati rice, roasted carrots, pickled asparagus, meyer lemon, capers

FOURTH

dark chocolate mousse cake, sour cherry compote, whipped white chocolate

or

pear caramel hand pie, blonde chocolate ice cream

The wine flight was carefully selected to complement each course. Each was a lesser wine that we would not normally order or hold in our cellar, yet each held up to the occasion, thereby offering substantial QPR - quality price ratio value, with each selection.

Michael Pozzan Winery Dante California Noir 2015

Michael Pozzan's Dante Pinot Noir, named after his eldest son, Michael Dante Pozzan, and inspired by wines discovered during travels through Italy, presents a selection one might find in the neighborhood trattoria. A unique but interesting and appropriate selection both options of the First Course. 

The 2015 Dante Pinot Noir is medium light bodied, with light opaque burgundy and light purple tones in color. Aromas and flavors of fresh raspberries and rose petals, give way to tones of vanilla and lightly roasted coffee with hints of sweet spicy oak and vanilla bean throughout the finish.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2586300

For the second course soup ..

Château de Respide Graves Blanc Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend 2014

Light straw color with a greenish hue, light medium bodied, slightly green grass and soapy tones accented by wet stone, floral, mineral with sweet pink grapefruit citrus, peach and honey notes with bright but modest light acidity.

RM 85 points.

This is a lovely wine: made from 66% Sémillon and 34% Sauvignon.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2132105




the other middle course wine .....

 Di Giovanna Nerello Mascalese Sicilian Rosato Gerbino

This is a unique Rosato from Sicily made from the Sicilian Nerello Mascalese grape known for expressive aromatics and spice. Aurelio Di Giovanna sourced the fruit from a 100 year old vineyard in Noto in Eastern Sicily where the vine has it’s origins.

The Di Giovanna family has been cultivating their 56 hectares of vineyards for five generations just outside the town of Sambuca di Sicilia in western Sicily. Their wines are made exclusively with their estate fruit with the grapes for this label coming from their Miccina & Paradiso vineyards.

This Rosato di Nerello Mascalese is light medium bodied, soft round textured, rhubarb colored, with bing cherry and red currant fruits with notes of floral violets and mineral on the moderate finish.


RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2110622

For the main entree course ...

Bacchus Cellars California Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

Not to be confused with that other ultra-premium Bachus label, this label is from David Gordon, the wine director at the legendary trendy Tribeca Grill New York City restaurant. Owned by restaurateur Drew Nieporent and actor Robert DeNiro, Tribeca Grill features a highly regarded wine program with a list of over 1800 selections. It is one of only six Wine Spectator Grand Award winner wine lists in New York City.

David created this Bacchus label sourced from many producer contacts he has in Napa and Sonoma. While the wineries that are currently used wish to remain anonymous, producers such as Caymus, Lewis Cellars and Miner Family have provided grapes and helped with the winemaking for earlier cuvees. The result is an incredible high value QPR (quality price ratio) wine at a modest price point.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, bright and approachable, with balanced flavors of black plum and black currant fruits, tones of cassis, mocha and a touch of earth and cedar, finishing with moderate tannins and oak.

RM 87 points.

 https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2574676

 The Dessert Course accompaniment ..

Warre's Heritage Ruby NV Port

A nice easy casual sipping accompaniment to the dessert

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2014

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2014 at Corkscrew wine shop in Springfield

In downstate Springfield, IL on business, colleague Eric W and I stopped in The Corkscrew wine shop for a casual wine tasting. Primarily a wine shop, they provide a nice selection of wines and a modest selection of cheeses, but also have a wine bar with casual seating for a small wine party or a simple tasting. For an impromptu tasting, we selected the latest release of Clio which was perfect accompaniment to some artisan cheeses - a spectrum of French Brie and Swiss to a bold Danish Blue.

Clio is a label from El Nido, a partnership between the Gil family and Chris Ringland, one of Australia's best known winemakers. The winery is in the Valley of the Aragona, 10 kilometers north of the town of Jumilla. Their vineyards are in the "top boundary", or the area of the highest altitude in the region. They produce Estate wines, (meaning they grow their own grapes) that are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from their 29 acres of vineyards, and the Monastrell varietal from 79 acres of very old vines in small plots. They produce very low yields that result in rich concentrated wines. They have two labels, Clio, a blend of Monastrell accented by Cabernet, and their ultra-premium flagship El Nido which is predominantly Cabernet, accented by Monastrell. They also have a few acres of Syrah that they produce under the label Corteo. Their first vintage release of the brands El Nido and Clio occurred in 2002. They've had a succession of highly rated and acclaimed releases ever since.

Jumilla is the town as well as a Denominación de Origen (DO), the Spanish official designation of an appellation or viticulture growing area, like the American AVA or the French AOC. The area is in the north of the city of Murcia and includes the municipality of its namesake Jumilla and the contiguous southeast of the Albacete province in the Castile-La Mancha region in southeast Spain. The area lies between the Mediterranean coastal area and the high central plateaus of the foothills leading up to the mountains. The altitude of the vineyards vary between 400 and 800 meters which moderates the heat of the climate. There are about 65,000 acres of vineyards in the Jumilla DO, 45% of which are in Murcia and 55% in Albacete. There are about 3,000 grape-growers registered in the region. The widely planted Monastrell grape is the same varietal as France’s Mourvèdre, a common grape in the French Rhone Valley and in Australia. (Monastrell is the 'M' in the red 'GSM' blend from those regions - Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre or Monastrell). The Monastrell produced in Jumilla is often considered the best. 

The town of Jumilla is becoming a popular tourist destination along the Jumilla Wine Route that traverses  the Region of Murcia. The city of Murcia is a historic picturesque old town, and the surrounding area produces wines which are becoming ever more recognized at the national and international level.

Clio is the one Spanish wine we collect each year and hold in our cellar in a vertical collection of a series of vintages. It is a consistently high-achieving highly rated wine in a style that we like - big, full bodied, bold, with concentrated forward fruit. I recommend this as a must have in any cellar, for a big thick dense opulent wine to have on hand for impressing guests or anytime tasting enjoyment. At $40, its more suitable for special occasions than an every day wine for most folks. It begs for hearty cheeses, spicy pasta, BBQ or even a charbroiled steak.

Consider the impressive track record for this wine over the last several years. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate scores for this wine: 2003 - 96 points; 2004 - 97 points; 2005 - 95 points; 2006 - 95 points; 2007 - 94 points, 2008 - 94 points, 2009 - 90 points.

This latest release follows in this tradition of a bold wine that provides instant, early gratification, or one that can be aged for several years to settle a bit. As is customary, this Clio is a blend of 70% old vine Monastrell and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon that was barrel-aged for 22-26 months in French and American oak.

The 2014 release bears Clio's hallmark opulence, a powerful, decadent wine with bold aromas and flavors, a thick, dense palate, and a long finish.

Like its traditional lineage of vintages, the 2014 vintage is another huge powerful fruit bomb. Dark inky purple colored, full bodied, 15.5% alcohol with dense concentrated blackberry and black raspberry fruits with layers of complex flavors of dark mocha, graphite, expresso and tongue coating dusty tannins on the big long finish.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=2247520

http://bodegaselnido.com/en/

http://www.thecorkscrew.com/

 

UGCB 2014 Release Tour Chicago

UGCB 2014 Release Tour Chicago

The UGC Bordeaux' (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)) annual release tour traversed America this week showcasing their 2014 vintage release wines. The tour visited Miami, New York, Chicago, LA and San Francisco.

Once again, our 'Pour Boys' wine group helped host the event in Chicago at the Drake Hotel in the elegant grand ballroom (shown left). 

Close to one hundred producers were represented at the event that was attended by over three hundred members of the trade, media and industry.

This annual roadshow is a marathon trek across America by the producers and their representatives offering Americans the chance to meet the Bordeaux principles, winemakers and commercial directors. We appreciate the investment in time and effort expended by the winemakers to visit Chicago. It provides a wonderful opportunity to meet them firsthand and discuss their perspectives on their brand, approach to crafting their style, their history, businesses, and their vintages.

As a collector and holder of a significant collection of Bordeaux wines dating back four decades, I hold as many as a dozen vintages or more of some of these labels. Meeting the producer / winemaker / representative is a great privilege and offers one a chance to learn more about their investment and wines. As such, I tend to focus on and taste those wines that I know well and of which my wine buddies and I have holdings.

This was the seventh Bordeaux release event that wine buddies Dr Dan and Lyle accompanied me to assist the team at Balzac Communications to host the event, helping with set up, logistics and then standing in to pour wine for any featured producers that were not able to attend in person. Earlier UGCB and related events are featured in earlier unwindwine blogposts. More than once, winter storms delayed or disrupted travel prohibiting some of them to get to Chicago for the event which started our standing in, hence we coined the name the 'pour' boys.


The 2014 vintage showed well in all the wines tasted, generally showing the best of recent years dating back to the highly acclaimed 2010. Following a couple lackluster vintages and quantities of high quality 2009 and '10 in the market, prices for the 2014's should provide reasonable values. They showed well on release and promise to provide early gratification in their youth without holding for several years to reveal pleasant quality drinking.

Some of my observations and highlights of the tasting:

The Margaux appellation was well represented and its wines showed very well with highlights from Brane Cantenac, Cantenac Brown, Lascombes, Desmirails and Dauzac. I loved their full complex fruits, nice balance and structure.

Chateau Brane Cantenac, represented by Marie Hélène Dussech, Commercial Director (shown above right) was a standout showing a delightful pronounced floral accent layer. Chateau Dauzac was represented by me, your's truly, standing in for the commercial representative.

Cantenac Brown, represented by technical director José Sanfins (shown left), was highlighted by sweet ripe berry fruits.

Returning to Chicago again and representing Lascombes was director Dominique Befve (left) who has headed up the estate since 2001. Previously he served ten years as technical director of Châteaux Lafite Rothschild and Duhart-Milon, after a stint at L’Evangile in Pomerol.

Chateau Desmirails represented by Director Denis Lurton (below) showed some distinctive exotic accent notes of black truffles and mushrooms.

All these wines were memorable and are worth exploring further. I gave all of these wines 92 or + points.

The Paulliac appellation showed well with strong representation from Phelan Segur, Pichon Baron and Clerc Milon.

St Julien seemed to be more subdued with offerings from Chateaus Leoville Barton, Gruaud Larose, Beyechevelle and LaGrange being nicely balanced but a bit tight and closed calling for some time reveal their character and profile. Leoville Poyferre seemed to show a slightly softer more approachable profile.

Chateau Domaine Chevalier was represented by proprietor next generation Hugo Bernard (above left). This was the best feature release from that property in recent memory.

There was a strong showing across the board from Sauterne. Standout highlights included Suideraut showing a pleasant firmness with soft smoke and nut tones, Lefaurie Peyraguey and Haut Peyraguey which both showed nice highlights of citrus and sweet ripe orange and apricot notes.

More to come ...

Ronan Laborde
Director Chateau Clinet

Denis Lurton -
Chateau Desmirails

With David Launay of Chateau
Grand Puy Lacoste

Linda M - Pour Boy Dr Dan

Pamela Wittman - Phelan Segur

Lefaurie-Peyraguey

4 Bordeaux Wine – Great vintage for the Cabernet Sauvignon based wines of the Medoc. The wines are especially strong the further north you go, with Pauillac and St. Estephe producing really good wine, followed by St. Julien and Margaux. The wines are soft, ripe and display silky tannins with good concentration. Due to their forward style, while age worthy, many of the wines will be fun to drink early. The vintage is mixed in St. Emilion and moderate in Pomerol, with many wines possessing a slightly dilute character. It’s a good vintage for dry, white Bordeaux wine, in a bright, acidic style. Sauternes and Barsac was also successful. Drink or hold. 92 Pts
Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/wine-topics/bordeaux-wine-buying-guide-tasting-notes-ratings/bordeaux-wine-vintage-chart/

2014 Bordeaux Wine – Great vintage for the Cabernet Sauvignon based wines of the Medoc. The wines are especially strong the further north you go, with Pauillac and St. Estephe producing really good wine, followed by St. Julien and Margaux. The wines are soft, ripe and display silky tannins with good concentration. Due to their forward style, while age worthy, many of the wines will be fun to drink early. The vintage is mixed in St. Emilion and moderate in Pomerol, with many wines possessing a slightly dilute character. It’s a good vintage for dry, white Bordeaux wine, in a bright, acidic style. Sauternes and Barsac was also successful. Drink or hold. 92 Pts
Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/wine-topics/bordeaux-wine-buying-guide-tasting-notes-ratings/bordeaux-wine-vintage-chart/

Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur 2005

Reignac Bordeaux Supérieur 2005

A quiet Friday night at home in front of the fire with a movie, we had grilled steak, baked apples and this supple casual sipping red Bordeaux Supérieur wine.

Bordeaux Supérieur is another of those designations that adds to the confusion or complexity of Bordeaux wines and therefore makes them somewhat intimidating to many who are trying to decipher the numerous labels. Its not enough that there are over fifty appellations in the greater Bordeaux region, but there are also regional AOC, designations that may be used throughout the region.

Bordeaux Supérieur is one of seven regional Appellations d'origine contrôlée (AOCs) that may be used throughout the Gironde (the river valley that forms the region). They are Bordeaux Rouge AOC, Bordeaux Supérieur Rouge, Bordeaux Clairet, Bordeaux Rosé, Bordeaux Blanc, a dry white, and Bordeaux Supérieur Blanc, a sweet white, and Crémant de Bordeaux, a sparkling wine. 

The regional appellations together form the largest world-class wine vineyard, making up more than half of the production of the Bordeaux wine region. and representing more than 55% of all Bordeaux wines consumed in the world.

These generally are entry-level Bordeaux wines, and tend to be fruity and easy-to-drink, suitable for early consumption rather than longer term cellaring. The more ambitious reds are usually sold as Bordeaux Supérieur AOC. As I have written often in these pages, in top vintages, 'all boats rise with the tide', and even these lower priced entry level wines can be very good, even exceptional, offering great high QPR (quality price ratio) values. So look for these designations in years of ideal growing conditions resulting in above average wines for great value.

The Bordeaux Supérieur appellation covers the same geographic area as Bordeaux AOC. They are often produced by single parcels of older vines. In all cases, Bordeaux Supérieur wines must be aged for at least twelve months before they can be sold.

Just like most regular Bordeaux, these are blends, with the reds being predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with smaller amounts of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and increasingly Malbec, and occasionally, some Carmenere. Those produced on the north and easterly side of the Gironde River, known as 'Right Bank' wines, tend to be predominantly Merlot accented by Cabernet, while those on the opposite side (westerly south side - "Left Bank") are primarily Cabernet accented by Merlot, and the lesser accent varietals.

Bordeaux Superieur can be found anywhere in Bordeaux, but most regional Bordeaux AOC wines are produced on the Right Bank. and tend to be from the area north of St. Emilon and Pomerol.

As in all the Bordeaux AOC wines, there are strict rules that govern the vineyards and wines in order to carry the designation label. Under the strict guidelines of French appellation law, for a Bordeaux to be classified as Superieur, it must come from a vineyard that is planted to a specific density with 4,500 plants per hectare with a distance of 2.2 meters between rows, compared to 4,000 plants per hectare with a distance of 2.5 meters between rows for regular Bordeaux. This higher density stresses the vines, since it is harder for the plants to survive, resulting in stronger deeper roots, and generally healthier vines. The result of these practices usually creates a superior wine with a richer and more complex flavor.

Reignac is a large 200-acre vineyard that sits on a high plateau near the village of Saint-Loubès. Reignac are known to produce consistent high achieving wines that are superior to the modest appellation (Bordeaux Supérieur) designation. The proprietors Yves and Stephanie Vatelot turned out a superlative effort in this vintage that is cru classé quality. The 2005 may be one of the all-time great Reignacs.

Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate said of this wine, "Despite its humble appellation, this is a very serious wine that is qualitatively up there with some of the better classified growths of the Medoc." He gave it 90 points.

Deep ruby/purple color, medium-full bodied, nicely balanced, black currant and black berry fruits, notes of mocha chocolate, anise, graphite and spice box, moderate concentration and acidity, supple ripe tannin makes for pleasant smooth easy casual drinking.

This 2005 Reignac was 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon.

RM 89 points. 
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 90 points.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar 88-90 points.
Wine Spectator 90 points.

Previously reviewed - http://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2015/12/reignac-bordeaux-superieur-2005.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=212134

Ferrari Carano Siena Sangiovese Malbec Sonoma 2013

 

For a business dinner we dined at Tuscany Restaurant in Oak Brook, one of the Phil Stefani group of eateries.  For my entree I chose the Salsiccia Funghi and Polenta - Italian sausage with wild porcini mushroom sauce and organic polenta. I selected this Sangiovese Malbec red wine blend which was a perfect accompaniment to the brown sauce, sausage and polenta. 

 

The Ferrari-Carano Italian heritage is reflected in this Sangiovese-based, easy sipping blend. The grapes are sourced from vineyards in Sonoma County - Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River Valleys. The result is a great QPR (quality price ratio) every day red that goes well with food or by itself.

Garnet colored, medium bodied, smooth and soft, blackberry and black raspberry fruits highlighted by a layer of mocha chocolate with hints of toasty vanilla, spicy oak and moderate soft tannins and a lingering finish.

 

RM 88 points. 

http://www.ferrari-carano.com/

 

http://www.tuscanychicago.com/

 

Chateau Leoville Las Cases 1981

Château Léoville Las Cases 1981 St Julien Bordeaux 

Birth and Anniversary Year Wines Spark Gala Family Birthday Dinner

For daughter Erin's birthday celebration dinner, Linda prepared a special Lobster Newburg and beef tenderloin surf and turf. For the seafood course I served Chilean Chardonnay. For the beef tenderloin main course entree, I pulled from the cellar two special selection wines commemorating Eric's birthyear and her anniversary year.

ChâteauLéoville Las Cases Saint-Julien Grand Vin de Léoville 1981 

We served this special birth year Chateau Leoville Las Cases wine in a large format 5 liter Jeroboam (shown left) as part of a collection of large format bottles of birth year wines, at Erin and Johnny's wedding ten years ago this month. So it was fitting to open this label for her birthday dinner on their tenth anniversary. Cellar records show this is our second to last bottle, tempting us on how long we can hold the last one.

This was perhaps the second most exclusive wine served that momentous evening behind the first growth Grand Vin Latour, also served from an Imperial.

Las Cases is considered a 'super second', being the second level designation, second only to the ultra-premium first growths. The Las Cases Chateau, estate and vineyards actually are adjacent to the great Chateau Latour, even though it is in a dfferent appellation, St Julien vs Pauillac for Latour. 

While St Julien, adjacent to Pauillac is the smallest of Bordeaux's most important appellations in terms of acreage, it accounted for a large number of the wines named in the Classification of 1855. Saint-Julien are among my favorite Bordeaux wines, with a profile being elegant, medium weight, with a cedary perfume, solid but rarely aggressive tannic structure, and with considerable aging ability.

Chateau Leoville Las Cases was originally part of a much larger estate that included Leoville-Barton and Leoville Poyferre. They were broken apart back in 1840. For the past five generations, the property has been owned and run by the Delon family. There are 97 hectare of vineyards planted in the classic Bordeaux varietals and proportions, 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot.

The legendary Grand Vin de Leoville is known for its power and richness, similar to its northerly neighbor, Grand Vin Château Latour. It is very much like its neighbors in the Pauillac appellation with its black fruit and mineral character and firm tannic backbone. In line with its 'super second' reputation, its almost expensive, but much more affordable that its First Growth neighbor (s).

The 1981 Leoville Las Case is/was affordable relative to it neighbor Chateau Latour. Also, the 1981 vintage was vastly overshadowed by the much heralded 1982, considered at the time to be the 'vintage of the century', or one of the top vintages of the century, hence rendering the 1981 a bargain relative to the budget busting 82's. The 1982 Leoville Las Cases received a perfect 100 point rating from Robert Parker, and thus was priced in the stratosphere. All the more that the 1981 was a bargain in comparison. This is much like my recent blogpost on the 1998 Napa Valley vintage, comparing it to its adjacent vintages.

I remember wondering if the somewhat maligned 1981 vintage wines held in our cellar as collectable birth-year wines for daughter Erin's wedding would hold up for the occasion back at the end of 2016. Alas, here we are enjoying this wine ten years later, in its 36th year. Such is the longevity of these classic Bordeaux.

While the fruits may have started to subside somewhat, starting to give way to non-fruit tones, very aromatic and flavorful, classic elegant Bordeaux notes, dark ruby brick colored, medium full bodied, black berry fruits accented by truffle, spicy cedar, tobacco and cigar box, silky smooth, concentrated and superbly balanced, with long lingering nicely integrated tannins on the spicy aromatic finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=13823


More to come ...

Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

Traveling to Springfield, IL this week, we dined at our favorite site there, Indigo Restaurant. I took from the home cellar BYOB this Robert Craig Howell Mountain Cabernet. This was perfect accompaniment to both my filet of beef and Linda's Ahi Tuna steak and the delectable creme brulee'.

Robert Craig Cabernet is featured often in these pages, as it is the largest or one of the largest producer holding in our cellar. Of the five or six different Cabernet labels offered by Robert Craig, his Howell Mountain is my perennial favorite, and Howell Mtn is one of my favorite appellations of the seventeen found in Napa Valley.

We've focused on and visited Howell Mountain producers on several of our Napa Valley trips - most notably, Arns, Dunn Vineyards, Clark Claudon, Viader, Ladera, and Lamborn. Our holdings of these labels from Howell Mountain may be the most represented appellation of the more than 1200 Napa Cabs in our cellar.

In my opinion, Howell Mountain wines have one of the more distinct and distinguishable terroir based profiles in Napa Valley. The characteristics of Howell Mountain wines are my favorites, big bold fruits driven with highlight tones of mocha, clove and cinnamon spices. I still remember my first Dunn Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet from back in 1990 and its distinctive cinnamon spice accents.

Robert Craig vineyard high atop Howell Mountain

Howell Mountain is located in the northeast corner of Napa Valley at the north end of the Vaca mountain range that forms the eastern boundary wall of the valley. The elevation of its vineyards ranged between 1,400 and 2,200 feet above sea level. This is interesting and notable since the elevation means that the vines are located above the fog line which rolls in from San Pablo Bay and the valley floor. That fog line reaching up to 1200 feet in elevation is the demarcation point between the Napa Valley and the Howell Mountain appellations, since it's impact results in different sub-climate growing conditions, thereby resulting in the distinctive terroir of the two areas. Being above the fog lines results in more sunlight, cooler days and warmer nights.

The Howell Mountain A.V.A. (American Viticultural Area, as designated by the US Dept. of  Treasury Alcohol And Tobacco Bureau) was the first sub appellation of Napa when it was designated back in 1983. The area is notable for its two soil types: volcanic ash, also known as “Tuff’, and a dry red clay, both of which are nutrient deficient.  Combine that with the steep hillsides and rocky and porous terrain and you have an environment that places high stress on its vines, resulting in rich concentrated fruit. Stressing the vines produces smaller harvests and smaller berries, but the fruit that is produced is more concentrated, intense and complex, perfect for making superior wines. 

Other notable Howell Moutain producers are Outpost, Cakebread, Duckhorn, and Robert Foley, who produces a Howell Mountain Cabernet and a Claret.  The 2001 Robert Foley Claret received 99 points from Robert Parker and the 2007 vintage received 98 points. Parker gave the 2007 vintage of this Craig Howell label 96 points.

This Robert Craig Cabernet from the Howell Mountain appellation showed all those classic characteristics that showcase the terroir of the appellation.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, concentrated complex core of black raspberry and black currant accented by a layer of sweet mocha chocolate turning to tones of clove and hints of vanilla and spicy oak, turning to smooth fine tannins on the lingering finish.

At 16 years of age, it drinking nicely, probably at its apex, with no signs of diminution whatsoever.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=33606

http://www.robertcraigwine.com/

http://www.indigocuisine.com/ 

Xavier Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2010

Xavier Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2010

 Xavier Vignon is one of the most highly renowned oenologists in Chateauneuf du Pape. He is the consultant for several well-known domaines such as Raymond Usseglio, Jerome Quiot, Beaurenard, La Nerthe, Mont Redon, Marcoux, Grand Veneur and La Gardine. These are all labels we know well and hold in our cellar collection.

View from Chateau LaNerthe looking in the
direction to Route Courthezon

I visited Chateau La Nerthe, and Mont Redon during our visit to the region during our Rhone Valley Wine trip back in 1998. Xaver's office and laboratory are down the road from and close to La Nerthe and the Chateau Fine Roches Hotel where we stayed during our visit. Xavier Vins does not have their own domaine so they produce their wines at the nearby Chateau Husson there on the route Courthezon.

Robert Parker visited Xavier and tasted his wines including this one in October of 2012. He writes "The blend of Xavier Vignon’s Chateauneuf du Pape can vary considerably. Vignon told me that it is a selection from nearly 120 different parcels in the appellation."

Often a wine consultant is paid in fruit or even in wine which he then can market under his own label. Hence the broad diversity and variation of such a label. Also, notably, his rather simple plain label therefore is void of a picture of any chateau or domaine or 'estate' reference.

Recall, as I've written in this pages, US labeling conventions use the term 'Estate' only when the grapes are grown on the proprietor/producers own property. In Bordeaux, this designation of attribution is referenced on the label notation "Mise en Boutille Au Chateau" (bottled at the chateau (estate). See yesterday's blogpost and label with notation.

So it is that Xavier Vignon is active in the wine business as an oenologist (winemaker and consultant) and negociant. He’s been a negociant since 2002 and produced his first Xavier Vins wine with the 2007 vintage.

In addition to his work in Chateauneuf du Pape, Xavier Vins also makes wine throughout the broader region in Gigondas, Cotes du Rhone and the Cotes du Rhone Villages, Vacqueyras, Ventoux and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise.

Before settling in the area and developing his career as an oenologist in the Southern Rhone, Xavier Vignon learned the craft working for various producers in Bordeaux , Napa Valley, Champagne and Australia.

the black pepper, spice, dark cherry, juicy kirsch, mint and herbs are right out in front. Plushly textured, this is a really nice wine that's fun to drink on the young side. The wine was made from a blend of 55% Grenache, 35% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah.
Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/rhone-wines-cote-rotie-hermitage-chateauneuf-du-pape/chateauneuf-du-pape-wine-producer-profiles/xavier-vins-chateauneuf-du-pape-rhone-wine/

Xavier Vins produces 3 red Chateauneuf du Pape wines and 2 Chateauneuf du Pape white wines.

Xavier Vins is the creation of the noted wine consultant, Xavier Vignon. Xavier Vignon works with numerous domaines in the Southern Rhone Valley including: Raymond Usseglio , La Nerthe , Marcoux , Gardine , Jerome Quiot, Beaurenard , Mont Redon , Maucoil , Roger Perrin and Grand Veneur are just some of the wineries he works with. Before his career really took as an oenologist in the Southern Rhone, Xavier Vignon practiced his trade in several countries and continents including stints in Bordeaux , the Napa Valley, Chapmagne and Australia.
Xavier Vins Vineyards, Wines, Winemaking
Xavier Vignon is one of the people active in the wine business with dual careers, as an oenologist and negociant . He’s been a negociant since 2002. The combination of those two skill sets formed the partnership that led to producing their own wine. Xavier Vins produced their first wine with the 2007 vintage, and they have not looked back since. As Xavier Vins does not have their own domaine, the wines are produced in in Courthezon at Chateau Husson .
Aside from making wine in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, Xavier Vins also makes wine in Gigondas, Cotes du Rhone and the Cotes du Rhone Villages, Vacqueyras, Ventoux and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise.
Xavier Vins produces 3 red Chateauneuf du Pape wines and 2 Chateauneuf du Pape white wines.
Xavier Vins Chateauneuf du Pape was made for the first time from the 2007 vintage. The blend can vary from year to year as the grapes come from perhaps 120 different parcels in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation. The wine is aged in French oak barrels of various ages, shapes and sizes.
Xavier Vins Anonyme made its debut with the 2007 vintage. The blend can vary from vintage to vintage as the grapes are sourced from more than different parcels scattered among the appellation. For example, in 2010, the wine was produced using mostly old vine Grenache from vines that were more than 100 years of age, along with a percentage of other, allowable grape varieties. In other vintages, the wine was produced from blending about 25% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre , 25% Syrah and 25% Counoise . In other vintages, while dominated by Grenache, the blend can include all 13 allowable grape varieties. Xavier Vins Anonyme is aged in a combination of concrete vats and French oak barrels of various sizes and shapes. This is their flagship wine and the strongest wine in their portfolio. This could be the latest released wine from the region, as the 2007 was not available until 2013, which could be even later than the release of Celestins from Henri Bonneau !
Xavier Vins La Reserve VII IX X – The wine is a multi vintage blend that was produced most recently from the following 3 vintages, as you can tell from the Roman numerals in the name; 2007, (43%), 2009, (21%) and 2010 with 36% of the blend.
Xavier Vins Cuvee Anonyme Blanc made its debut with the 2012 vintage. The wine is produced from blending 50% Roussanne , 40% Grenache Blanc and 10% Clairette . 70% of the wine is aged in barrel and the remaining 30% is aged in stainless steel tanks.
Xavier Vins Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is made from a blend of 40% Grenache Blanc, 40% Roussanne and 20% Clairette, but the blend changes from vintage to vintage. The wine is barrel fermented and aged in barrel for 6 months before bottling.
Serving and Decanting Xavier Vins with Wine, Food Pairing Tips
Xavier Vins is best served at 15.5 degrees Celsius, 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The cool, almost cellar temperature gives the wine more freshness and lift. Young vintages can be popped and poured, or decanted for an hour so. This allows the wine to soften and open its perfume. Older vintages might need very little decanting, just enough to remove the sediment. Xavier Vins is best served with all types of classic meat dishes, veal, pork, beef, lamb, duck, game, roast chicken, roasted, braised, stewed dishes, sausage and cassoulet. Xavier Vins is also good with Asian dishes, hearty fish courses like tuna, mushrooms pasta, eggplant and tomatoes.
The white wine of Xavier Vins is best served with a myriad of different seafood dishes, shellfish, crab, lobster, sushi, sashimi, chicken, pork and veal, as well as Asian cuisine.
Xavier Vins produces a few wines from the Cotes du Rhone appellation as we mentioned. But one wine stands out for its uniqueness. He produces a blend of 50% Grenache from the Southern Rhone and 50% Syrah from the Northern Rhone , called. SM Cotes du Rhone.
www.xaviervins.com

Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/rhone-wines-cote-rotie-hermitage-chateauneuf-du-pape/chateauneuf-du-pape-wine-producer-profiles/xavier-vins-chateauneuf-du-pape-rhone-wine/

Xavier Vignon is one of the people active in the wine business with dual careers, as an oenologist and negociant . He’s been a negociant since 2002. The combination of those two skill sets formed the partnership that led to producing their own wine. Xavier Vins produced their first wine with the 2007 vintage, and they have not looked back since. As Xavier Vins does not have their own domaine, the wines are produced in in Courthezon at Chateau Husson .
Aside from making wine in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, Xavier Vins also makes wine in Gigondas, Cotes du Rhone and the Cotes du Rhone Villages, Vacqueyras, Ventoux and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise.
Xavier Vins produces 3 red Chateauneuf du Pape wines and 2 Chateauneuf du Pape white wines.

Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/rhone-wines-cote-rotie-hermitage-chateauneuf-du-pape/chateauneuf-du-pape-wine-producer-profiles/xavier-vins-chateauneuf-du-pape-rhone-wine/

Xavier Vignon is one of the people active in the wine business with dual careers, as an oenologist and negociant . He’s been a negociant since 2002. The combination of those two skill sets formed the partnership that led to producing their own wine. Xavier Vins produced their first wine with the 2007 vintage, and they have not looked back since. As Xavier Vins does not have their own domaine, the wines are produced in in Courthezon at Chateau Husson .
Aside from making wine in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, Xavier Vins also makes wine in Gigondas, Cotes du Rhone and the Cotes du Rhone Villages, Vacqueyras, Ventoux and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise.
Xavier Vins produces 3 red Chateauneuf du Pape wines and 2 Chateauneuf du Pape white wines.

Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/rhone-wines-cote-rotie-hermitage-chateauneuf-du-pape/chateauneuf-du-pape-wine-producer-profiles/xavier-vins-chateauneuf-du-pape-rhone-wine/vier Vins is the creation of the noted wine consultant, Xavier Vignon. Xavier Vignon works with numerous domaines in the Southern Rhone Valley including: Raymond Usseglio , La Nerthe , Marcoux , Gardine , Jerome Quiot, Beaurenard , Mont Redon , Maucoil , Roger Perrin and Grand Veneur are just some of the wineries he works with. Before his career really took as an oenologist in the Southern Rhone, Xavier Vignon practiced his trade in several countries and continents including stints in Bordeaux , the Napa Valley, Chapmagne and Australia.

Xavier Vins Vineyards, Wines, Winemaking
Xavier Vignon is one of the people active in the wine business with dual careers, as an oenologist and negociant . He’s been a negociant since 2002. The combination of those two skill sets formed the partnership that led to producing their own wine. Xavier Vins produced their first wine with the 2007 vintage, and they have not looked back since. As Xavier Vins does not have their own domaine, the wines are produced in in Courthezon at Chateau Husson .
Aside from making wine in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, Xavier Vins also makes wine in Gigondas, Cotes du Rhone and the Cotes du Rhone Villages, Vacqueyras, Ventoux and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise.
Xavier Vins produces 3 red Chateauneuf du Pape wines and 2 Chateauneuf du Pape white wines.
Xavier Vins Chateauneuf du Pape was made for the first time from the 2007 vintage. The blend can vary from year to year as the grapes come from perhaps 120 different parcels in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation. The wine is aged in French oak barrels of various ages, shapes and sizes.
Xavier Vins Anonyme made its debut with the 2007 vintage. The blend can vary from vintage to vintage as the grapes are sourced from more than different parcels scattered among the appellation. For example, in 2010, the wine was produced using mostly old vine Grenache from vines that were more than 100 years of age, along with a percentage of other, allowable grape varieties. In other vintages, the wine was produced from blending about 25% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre , 25% Syrah and 25% Counoise . In other vintages, while dominated by Grenache, the blend can include all 13 allowable grape varieties. Xavier Vins Anonyme is aged in a combination of concrete vats and French oak barrels of various sizes and shapes. This is their flagship wine and the strongest wine in their portfolio. This could be the latest released wine from the region, as the 2007 was not available until 2013, which could be even later than the release of Celestins from Henri Bonneau !
Xavier Vins La Reserve VII IX X – The wine is a multi vintage blend that was produced most recently from the following 3 vintages, as you can tell from the Roman numerals in the name; 2007, (43%), 2009, (21%) and 2010 with 36% of the blend.
Xavier Vins Cuvee Anonyme Blanc made its debut with the 2012 vintage. The wine is produced from blending 50% Roussanne , 40% Grenache Blanc and 10% Clairette . 70% of the wine is aged in barrel and the remaining 30% is aged in stainless steel tanks.
Xavier Vins Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is made from a blend of 40% Grenache Blanc, 40% Roussanne and 20% Clairette, but the blend changes from vintage to vintage. The wine is barrel fermented and aged in barrel for 6 months before bottling.
Serving and Decanting Xavier Vins with Wine, Food Pairing Tips
Xavier Vins is best served at 15.5 degrees Celsius, 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The cool, almost cellar temperature gives the wine more freshness and lift. Young vintages can be popped and poured, or decanted for an hour so. This allows the wine to soften and open its perfume. Older vintages might need very little decanting, just enough to remove the sediment. Xavier Vins is best served with all types of classic meat dishes, veal, pork, beef, lamb, duck, game, roast chicken, roasted, braised, stewed dishes, sausage and cassoulet. Xavier Vins is also good with Asian dishes, hearty fish courses like tuna, mushrooms pasta, eggplant and tomatoes.
The white wine of Xavier Vins is best served with a myriad of different seafood dishes, shellfish, crab, lobster, sushi, sashimi, chicken, pork and veal, as well as Asian cuisine.
Xavier Vins produces a few wines from the Cotes du Rhone appellation as we mentioned. But one wine stands out for its uniqueness. He produces a blend of 50% Grenache from the Southern Rhone and 50% Syrah from the Northern Rhone , called. SM Cotes du Rhone.
www.xaviervins.com

Read more at:http://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/rhone-wines-cote-rotie-hermitage-chateauneuf-du-pape/chateauneuf-du-pape-wine-producer-profiles/xavier-vins-chateauneuf-du-pape-rhone-wine/

We tasted this with an assortment of artisan cheeses.

This was lighter than we expected. Dark blackish garnet colored, it was medium light bodied, the dark brooding fruits were more subdued than we expected, overtaken by non-fruit layers of herbs and spices with hints of black olive, pepper and mushroom on the short finish.

The next day, this was more balanced taking on an interesting tone of bourbon whiskey without the heat.

This is a blend of 65% Grenache and the remainder is equal proportions of Mouvedre and Syrah.  

The more subdued fruit flavors may be indicative of the proportion of Genache over the Syrah and Mouvedre in the blend. This may be another indication leading to my disfavor of Grenache over the other CDP varietals.

RM 88 points. Robert Parker gave this 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1555520

www.xaviervins.com