Robert Biale Black Chicken Zinfandel 2012

Robert Biale 'Black Chicken' Napa Valley Zinfandel 2012

I pulled this Robert Biale 'Black Chicken' Zinfandel from the cellar to serve with our barbecue beef and ribs dinner week before last and never opened it. It was still in the wine cooler adjacent the kitchen, where we 'stage' wines before drinking, so I pulled it for Sunday evening dinner of meatballs, some artisan cheeses and fruits.

Since 1937, the Biale family has grown Zinfandel along with assorted other varieties on their farm just outside the town of Napa. Today, Robert Biale produces an extensive portfolio of Napa Valley Zinfandel wines. This is his 'signature' wine that dates back to the days of prohibition when Black Chicken was the proxy code name for bottles of red wine.

It goes back to the days when as a 14 year-old, Aldo Biale helped his farmer, grower and wine producer mother to make ends meet by selling to insider Napans, chickens, eggs, prunes, walnuts and vegetables, and some of the family’s homemade Zinfandel. Over the old “party line” phone system, the code words “a Black Chicken” signified a jug of bootleg wine … and kept nosy neighbors and the authorities from finding out about Aldo’s underground Zinfandel operation!

The Robert Biale estate lies within the Oak Knoll District in southern Napa Valley just above the town of Napa and has several vineyards from which they source several single vineyard designated labels in addition to this, their flagship label. Black Chicken is primarily sourced from Biale's Oak Knoll District ranch estate.

Robert Biale Black Chicken Zinfandel 2012

This label was awarded  92 points by Wine Enthusiast,  91 points by James Suckling and Wine Spectator. 

I found it a bit 'flabby', not living up to its high accolades, perhaps because I held it too long, opening it after seven years from release. Dark ruby colored, medium full bodied, rich dense, James Suckling called it a 'funky old vine character ... with mushroom and bark undertones', sweet jammy black berry, spice, sage, anise and what WS calls 'smokey caramel' on a peppery finish. 

RM 88 points. 

Several other Cellartracker members had similar experiences with this label. One wrote, "I suspect that I held this too long. Not jammy (good) and not noticeably hot. Decent nose. Very (too) smooth. Various red and black fruits, but minimal berry/bramble notes. Pleasant medium body and a good finish. Unfortunately, the absence of tannins made it less-than-suitable with food (BBQ in this instance). Other recent notes don't mention this, so maybe it was an off bottle."

Another one wrote, "Nice enough and well balanced. However, everything is somewhat muted, and tannins are conspicuously MIA. Definitely well past its peak."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1780801

https://biale.com/

Revana St Helena Cabernet 2009

Revana Family Vineyard Napa Valley St Helena Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

Friday night, end of week wind-down, we pulled this bottle from the cellar and took it BYOB to
Marinella Italian Restaurant in nearby Glen Ellyn (Illinois) for a change of pace. This was our first encounter at this neighborhood trattoria, another family owned and operated quaint friendly comfortable spot. It made us feel good about our local favorite regular eatery, Angeli's Italian. They have relatively comparable menus and prices, Marinella has a more extensive and imaginative winelist, was quieter and more intimate albeit a bit dated and quirky with the silk flowers on the tableside windowledge.

The Marinella winelist is totally Italian, featuring wines from the major wine regions - a nice selection, at a range of price points. They were accommodating to us with our BYOB special bottle we brought for the evening. Knowing of their wine selection, I would not be hesitant to dine there for a wine and dine experience, dependent on their wine list to complement the dinner. 

Linda had the scallops and shrimp in a vodka cream tomato sauce with pasta which was very good and nicely prepared. I had the meat filled ravioli which was lackluster and uninspiring since I asked for some pasta with meat and cheese and ended up with a tomato sauce and no cheese - so much for ordering by style and content rather than from a defined dish.

We may return in the summer as Marinella have patio dining that might be nice al fresco in appropriate weather.

In any event, our BYOB wine was a highlight of the meal - a nice complement to the entrees, albeit more elegant and complex than the meal warranted - Revana Family Vineyard St Helena Cabernet Sauvignon.

This was our first encounter with Revana. Records show I picked up a single bottle from Binny's our local wine superstore. It overachieved for the occasion but then again is a far more pricey bottle that would've been best served with an elegant meal.

Revana was founded in 1997 by Dr. Madaiah Revana, a successful Houston cardiologist, when he discovered and eventually acquired the small parcel of prime vineyard land in St. Helena while visiting Napa Valley. Dr. Revana was a fan of super premium Bordeaux wines and set out to grow highest quality Bordeaux varietal fruit to produce his own interpretation of such wines.

Dr. Revana dedicated himself to learning all he could about his new interest. He traveled the wine regions of Europe and the United States, learning along the way, and he became determined to create a vineyard estate from which he could craft his own world-class wines. Revana Family Vineyard was established to pursue that ambitious goal.

The The Revana Estate Vineyard sits on St Helena Highway north of town approaching Calistoga, in the neighborhood of the CIA (Culinary Institute of America), Markham, Freemark Abbey, Vineyard 29 and Grace Family Vineyards.

The northern part of Napa Valley where it narrows is framed by the Mayacamas and Vaca mountains. The hillside erosion from the surrounding mountains provides the gravel and soil resulting in the deep, well-drained soils that make up the Revana Estate. This section of the upper valley benefits from more moderate temperatures, a combination of warm days and cool nights, without the foggy mornings found in the lower valley or the extreme heat of Calistoga to the north.

The site has deep, well-drained gravelly alluvial soils, sloped pitch adjacent Diamond Mountain, with excellent exposure, warm days and cool nights, for terroir ideally suited for Bordeaux varietals, notably Cabernet Sauvignon.

In 1998, Dr. Revana hired acclaimed vineyard manager Jim Barbour to plant and maintain the 9-acre estate vineyard. He engaged renowned winemaker Heidi Barrett to craft exceptional wines from the Revana Estate vineyard from its first vintage in 2001. Revana enjoyed great critical success including the honor of being ranked number 4 in the world in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2010.

In 2011, Thomas Brown joined Revana Family Vineyard as consulting winemaker charged to continue the tradition of making world-class Cabernet Sauvignon in the Revana style. Brown earned the craft at several small wineries then progressed his winemaking career at Turley Wine Cellars where he was the assistant winemaker through 2001.

Brown became best known for the Cabernet Sauvignons that he has crafted for Schrader Cellars, Thomas also received numerous accolades from the press notably in 2010, Food & Wine Magazine named him Winemaker of the Year. Both Wine Spectator and The Wine Advocate have bestowed multiple 100 point scores on Cabernets made by Thomas. 

Revana has assembled all the elements to produce world class wines - a renowned accomplished winemaker, an inspirational vineyard with ideal terroir, and state of the art facilities.  We'll look forward to visiting the Estate on an upcoming visit to Napa Valley.

Revana Family Vineyard Napa Valley St. Helena Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

This is a blend of Revana estate grown Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon  (93.3%), Cabernet Franc (5.7%), and 1% Petit Verdot. It was aged twenty months in French oak.
 

Dark blackish garnet colored, medium bull bodied, elegant, polished, opulent, well-balanced, nicely integrated concentrated but somewhat subdued sweet black cherry and black berry fruits with a layer of cherry cola highlighted by tones of tea, lavender, cassis and earthy wild berry, coffe bean and hint of caramel with smooth silky polished tannins on the moderate finish.

RM 91 points. 

Napa Valley Premiere Auction for this wine noted: "Revana 2009 features Clone 7, one of the historic Cabernet clones of Napa Valley and it lends power, concentration and rich flavors of cassis and berry to the Revana Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Renowned winemaker Heidi Peterson Barrett crafts the Revana Cabernet with a balance of refinement, ripe fruit flavors and a sense of the estate vineyard from which the wine comes."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1269051
 

https://www.revanawine.com/

https://marinellaitalianrestaurant.com/

Andretti Montona Reserve Merlot 2015

Andretti Winery Montona Reserve Merlot 2015

We visited Andretti Winery in southeast Napa Valley during our Napa Wine Experience in 2018. We discovered the Andretti estate while visiting the Lewis Cellars winery which is across the road, during our Napa Wine Experience in 2017.

How ironic, the two Indianapolis Race Car drivers that have wine interests are almost adjacent to each other in Napa Valley - Mario Andretti and Randy Lewis. Notably, both source all or much of their fruit for their wines from leased property or contract growers.

This label is from the Montona Reserve brand, the high end premium line of the Andretti portfolio. The line is named for the Italian village of Montona, the hometown of the Andretti family.

Actually, Andretti was born in Croatia, like another famous Napa ‘vintner’ Mike Grgich.

Andretti Winery was established in 1996 by the famed race car driver, Mario Andretti. It is a joint venture project with Joe Antonini, former CEO of Kmart, who was one of Mario’s sponsors during his racing days.

The winery is located about 10 minutes north of downtown Napa, on Big Ranch Road, midway between the Silverado Trail and Highway 29.

The property is actually owned by the Laird Family, prominent growers and producers. Andretti leases the winery on site as well as the tasting room. Andretti also leases about 42 acres surrounding the winery, planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc. They also purchase grapes from other growers from select vineyards around Napa Valley.

The estate site is in the Napa Valley Oak Knoll District in the southeast corner of the valley, which is somewhat cooler as it gets some effect from the San Pablo Bay to the south, when compared to the warmer areas up valley.

The Andretti Winery features a small faux Italian/Tuscan building and courtyard with picturesque fountains and landscaping. There is a small cottage, patios and lawns that are available for small private tastings and picturesque grounds which would be ideal for an event or outing.

The tasting room offers the extensive lineup of Andretti wines. We were hosted by Jeff (shown) who was knowledgeable about the wines and Napa Valley generally as he is has a long history and is well connected in Napa Valley being a decendent and relative cousin of the Yates Family up on Mt Veeder, if I recall correctly.

Andretti also produce several brands under the Andretti label including their Napa Valley Series (wines that are not vineyard designates), the Villa Andretti Series (reasonably priced limited production wines that focus on Italian varieties (wines not often found in the Napa Valley), and the Montona Series (named after Mario’s childhood home in Italy featuring very their most premium limited production wines).

We actually joined the wine club which provides access to the facilities and an allotment of the Montona Series of semi-premium wines throughout the year. We have fun serving the Andretti Montona label to our fellow native Hoosiers who appreciate the Indy 500 connection. 

Andretti Montona Reserve Merlot 2015

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, bold, elegant, nicely polished and balanced black berry and black cherry fruits with notes of floral, cassis, tobacco leaf and spice with hints of earth, black pepper and pomegranate turning to pronounced but approachable tannins on a lingering finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3159360

https://andrettiwinery.com/

Robert Craig Tribute

Robert Craig Tribute and Remembrance - Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon

Writing about our tasting Robert Craig Affinity last week, I was sobered to learn of the passing of founder and former owner/producer Robert Craig. As a result, in response to the news, I selected several Robert Craig labels to taste with several special dinners this week, in remembrance of and in tribute to Robert. As we opened and released each bottle we toasted Robert and offered our thoughts and prayers to Lynn.

I recall Robert telling us on numerous occasions that his favorite label was the Mount Veeder (Napa Valley) Cabernet Sauvignon. This was likely in light of his early years managing vineyards up on Mt Veeder on behalf of Hess Collection, and then Robin William's winery (Toad Hollow, named for his brother Todd, whose name he couldn't pronounce as a child calling him Toad instead of Todd), and then his long history sourcing fruit from vineyards there to supply one of his key labels, the Mt Veeder Cabernet of the Robert Craig portfolio. This long association ended just a couple of years ago with the purchase of the vineyards by the Tesseron French conglomerate from the estate of the departed Robin Williams.
 

P.S. to this post, December, 2020 - Tesseron Napa Valley Pym Rae Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon just appeared in wine merchants this week - featured in the collectables room at $350 per bottle - quite a premium for the descendant of Robert Craig Mt Veeder label we enjoyed for so long!

Robert Craig in Napa Valley was founded in 1992 when Robert Craig, a former general manager of The Hess Collection winery, struck out on his own. Craig wanted to make small quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon from distinct Napa Valley appellations. Over the years, he acquired and produced wine from the 9.5-acre estate vineyard high atop Howell Mountain. Robert Craig also sourced grapes from Spring Mountain, Napa Valley, Mt George, Atlas Peak, and of course his beloved Mt. Veeder. He often referred to his portfolio of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons as 'three mountains and a valley'. He also sourced fruit and produced Napa Valley Chardonnay, Zinfandel and on some occasions a Syrah.

Robert attended the University of Chicago and hence we believe he always had a fondness for Chicago. He ventured here at least once on a wine release tour and we met him in the City at a tasting event. As partner and winery executive Elton wrote in his tribute to Bob, "To be introduced to Bob was to receive a hug from Bob". That day, in Chicago, Bob and Lynn walked into the venue and Bob spotted me across the room and made his way through the crowd towards me, came up to me and gave me a big hug!  

He was also a former merchant marine seaman. Back in 1999, we hosted a wine dinner featuring him and Lynn at the CIA in St Helena. That day, the tall ships sailed in to San Francisco Bay. Robert had gotten up a 430 am drive down to the city to see the tall ships, then drove back late afternoon to join us for dinner (shown right - Reuben Katz of CIA hiding in back).

I remember he was rejoicing in the fellowship and wine and had a special teary twinkle in his eye. Upon asking him if he was okay, he lamented, 'this was one of the best days of my whole life!". Such was the kind and content, joyful Robert Craig.

We also hosted a wine dinner at the CIA featuring Robert the year before in 1998 and he brought along his winemaker Rudy Zedema (shown left, rear next to me) whom he was no doubt mentoring. Robert and Rudy are pictured with our group, Andy, Liat, Linda, and me. 

The Robret Craig Mt Veender Napa Valley Cabernet wine was cited as "One of the "Top 50 Napa Valley Cabernets" based on 15 years of ratings by The Wine Spectator".


In tribute and remembrance of Robert Craig, we pulled vintage bottles of Robert Craig Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon as well as horizontal selections of Robert Craig Affinity from those vintages that would've contained some of the same Cabernet Sauvignon fruit in the blend.

To heighten the significant and poignancy of the occasion, Sister Jan and Brother-in-law Bill were in town this weekend for a family event. They were with us during a couple of our Robert Craig special events and some of our memorable visits to the Robert Craig Estate up on Howell Mountain including a picnic lunch we had there back in 2007 (below).

Picnic with Robert at Craig Estate with Jan and Bill, Andy, Linda and Me

Our records show we still hold in our cellar nearly four cases of fifteen different vintage releases of this label spanning the three decades since its release.

Robert Craig Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

We visited the Robert Craig estate winery high atop Howell Mountain on several occasions, including the Robert Craig Howell Mountain Harvest Party '09 back in 2009, when we first tasted some of the 2007 vintage release labels from barrel and when we would have acquired this wine. Robert Craig Napa Valley Cabernets, which are instantiated in at least six different labels including this vineyard designated select Mt Veeder, are one of the largest producer holdings in our cellar collection.

The previous time we served this wine at one of our wine dinners, it was poignant tasting and reminiscing over this wine. We recalled tasting this wine with Robert Craig on numerous occasions and he recollecting this is his favorite of the vineyard selections. We talked of the recent end of the supplier relationship for this fruit source as the legendary Pym Rae Vineyard, previously owned by the late Robin Williams, was sold to a major French producer who acquired the sixteen hundred acre estate and plan to enter the Napa Valley marketplace. We recall Robert's reminiscences of Robin for whom he worked and managed the vineyards back in the nineties. 

Jan and Bill, Linda and me, Rachel and Robert

Linda and Robert

Fellow wine buddy and 'Pour Boy' Bill C (above with Robert and me) was with us on our most recent visits to the Robert Craig Estate, harvest party and tasting events. He and Beth C were with us when we acquired several of our releases of this label in recent years and we were both members of the Craig wine club. 

Bill's Cellartracker notes on this tasting:

"Big full bodied Mt Veeder. Medium garnet in color. Nose musty upon opening but reveals pencil shavings with some light floral notes. Dark cherry, raspberry, mocha and a hint of mint on the finish. Bigger and bolder than most Mt. Veeder. Medium bodied with a long, lingering finish."

WCC 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=857002

Robert Craig Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder 2004

We also opened a 2004 vintage release of this same label - a 'vertical' selection - multiple vintages of the same label. Obviously similar to the 2007 release above since its essentially the same wine, sourced from the same vineyards and crafted by the same winemaker and processes. The 2004 was a bit less fruit filled and forward, a bit tighter and subdued, but very good none-the-less.

This release got 92 points from Connoisseur's Guide and Wine Enthusiast.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, nicely integrated and well balanced black cherry, black currant and black raspberry fruits accented by notes of cassis, smokey oak, dark mocha and hints of cedar with moderate dusty tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 91 points.

This is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, & 2% Cabernet Franc.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=347353

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=857002

https://robertcraigwine.com/

@RobertCraigWine

Ladera Malbec 2006

Ladera Napa Valley Malbec 2006 

We discovered this wine and purchased it following our visit to the Ladera Vineyards estate and winery up on Howell Mountain during our Napa Valley Howell Mountain Wine Experience 2008. 

We'd driven past the property, formerly the historic Chateau Woltner many times over the years on our treks up Howell Mountain. 

The fabulous historic winery building consists of production and barrel storage below and a rustic tasting room upstairs. It is surrounded by spectacular gardens, beds of lavender, and of course the vineyards.

Rick & Linda at Ladera winery
on Howell Mountain

Ladera primarily focused on Cabernet Sauvignon of which we still hold a several cases of four different labels across three vintages from this era. We also acquired some of their Pinot Noir which was sourced from Sonoma County, as well as this Malbec grown from estate fruit, of which we still hold a half case in our cellar.


Malbec is one of the "big five" grape varieties in Bordeaux included in the "Cabernet family" of grapes.

It serves as one of the blending wines to round out and add complexity to the primary varietals of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc or Merlot used for its deep, dark purple color, its fragrant aromas, ranging from black cherry to black pepper, and its texture which is lush and juicy in the mid palette and very soft on the finish.

Primarily a blended complement to the tannic, brooding Cabernet Sauvignon, it produces an interesting and nice stand alone wine, as well.

The 2006 Napa Valley Ladera Malbec is a blend of fruit from two mountain vineyards - 50% from Howell Mountain and the other 50% from Lone Canyon - two unique terroirs.

The rolling hills and volcanic soils of Howell Mountain vineyard lend to the bold dark fruit characters while the steep slopes and gravely soils of Lone Canyon high atop Mt Veeder contribute intense phenolic structure and complexity to the wine.

Somewhat consistent with my tasting notes way back in 2011 when we last tasted this wine: "This wine holds true to its varietal characteristics with its dark inky color, rich aromatics and bold masculine structure. The wine exhibits forward fruits flavors of black cherry and black berry with violets, red licorice, hints of vanilla, white pepper and smoky fig.

Dark garnet colored, medium-full bodied, less complex and less structured than a Cabernet this comes across a bit flabby on opening but overcame the funkiness to reveal black berry and cherry fruit flavors, a layer of spice, hints of leather and a touch of cedar on a long finish." 

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/editinventory.asp?iWine=523712

Rick with Ladera owner/producer
Anne Stotesbery

The seeds for Ladera were planted in the early 1970s, when Pat and Anne Stotesbery fell in love while attending university in Northern California. Among their many shared interests, they discovered a passion for wine, and were soon taking wine classes together, and traveling to wine country for tastings.

The next two decades took them to Minnesota and Montana, where they ran a 3,200-acre ranch with 750 head of cattle, during which time, their interest in wine continued to grow.

With deep agricultural roots on both sides of their family, Pat and Anne Stotesbery acquired their first Napa Valley mountain vineyard in 1996. Their original vineyard was on Mount Veeder, the following year they purchased their second mountain vineyard, Lone Canyon.

In 1998, Pat and Anne made their first non-commercial vintage of 100 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon.

 As a reflection of their commitment to making mountain Cabernet Sauvignons, they selected the name Ladera for their winery, which means “hillside, or slope” in both Spanish and Italian.

They moved their family to Napa Valley, and in 2000, they acquired a historic Howell Mountain property featuring an 82-acre vineyard. For the next 16 years, this property served as the home for Ladera.

Around 2008, their son Dan visited us while on a wine promotion trip and we took him around to several of the local wine merchants in the area. 

In 2016, following the earlier sales of the Lone Canyon and the Mount Veeder properties, with their children grown and pursuing careers of their own, Pat and Anne sold their land on Howell Mountain.

Dark color - full bodied - full firm forward fruits - a bit flabby on opening but overcame the funkiness to reveal black berry and cherry fruit flavors, a layer of spice, hints of leather and a touch of cedar on a long finish.

Rustic Ladera tasting area in the historic
chai and barrel building back in 2006.

 https://www.laderavineyards.com/

http://mcnees.org/winesite/napa/napa_08/img_napa08_ladera_winery_remc.jpg

Bellemore West Loop Chicago

Trendy Bellemore West Loop Chicago Restaurant Dinner features Red Wine Flight

For a dinner meeting hosting EMEA team and a key business partner, we dined at trendy Bellemore Restaurant in the West Loop, Chicago. The bright, vibrant, trendy, chic high-end spot is from the group behind Girl & the Goat and Somerset. In partnership with Boka Restaurant Group, Bellemore aims to define the category of "Artistic American" in both cuisine and decor. Since opening in November 2017, the restaurant has been awarded #1 in Robb Report’s Best of the Best in the "10 Best New Restaurants in America’. Chef/Partner Jimmy Papadopoulos was also named as Robb Report’s 2018 Best Young Chefs in the country. 

In 2015, Papadopoulos was named Eater Chicago’s Chef of the Year, as well as one of Zagat’s ‘30 under 30’. Papadopoulos has been praised for his ability to “take the familiar and add layers of flavor to make it outstanding.”  He describes his style of cooking as "bold, bright and beautiful."

Chic, elegant, bright and airy, Bellmore features sleek interiors with brass details accentuated with natural elements, plush blush sofas, nostalgic wood & wicker seating, and theme of colorful birds highlighted by peacocks.

We dined at the 'chef's table adjacent and overlooking the kitchen.

Bellemore do not have a deep or broad wine list but the selection of offerings are carefully chosen to complement the menu.

The dinner menu offers three courses as well as a selection of sophisticated 'snack's. 

Our selections featured the Kona Kanpachi* with country ham, summer melons, jalapeño & mint.

and the Nori Radiatore with peekytoe crab, breadcrumbs, yuzu kosho & mint. 

No less than five of our group selected the Butter Poached Alaskan Halibutwith black rice, blood sausage, chanterelles & clams. I chose the Wagyu Tri Tip with slow roasted beets, shiitake mushrooms & tomato hollandaise.

For our wine flight, we started with a crisp Chardonnay from Louis Moreau, Chablis, Burgundy, France. We followed up with a flight of reds. I selected a course from simpler to more complex wines ending with a off-winelist Cabernet Franc for casual winding down our dinner. 

Chardonnay - Louis Moreau, Chablis - Burgundy, France 2016

Alain Graillot, Crozes-Hermitage, Northern Rhône Valley 2017

We had this label from the previous 2016 vintage during a team partner dinner in Paris back in May of this year. Producer Alain Graillot founded his domaine in Crozes-Hermitage in 1985, and has since become one of the most in-demand producers in the Northern Rhone. He is known for exuberant, robust, and complete Syrah based wines sourced from his 50 acre estate of 30-year-old Crozes-Hermitage vines on the flat alluvial plain at the junction of the Rhône and Isère rivers.

Photo-label from 2016 release

Alain is joined by his two sons Antoine and Maxime working the estate. They produce rich, concentrated reds that represent the best art of the possible of the Syrah grape: black fruit, intense aromatics, pepper and spice complexity underpinned by crisp acidity and fine tannins.

Graillot works organically, harvesting fruit by hand and fermenting in whole bunches. He ages his wines in used barrels, one to three-years-old, purchased from Burgundy’s best estates. His Crozes-Hermitage is approachable and enjoyable young, yet will age nicely for a decade or more. Despite the tannins that inevitably come from the inclusion of whole bunches in fermentation, Graillot wines are seldom hard-edged, overly tannic, or in need of extended cellaring. 

This 2017 release was bottled in March of this year, 2019.

JebDunnuck.com gave the 2016 a rating of 91 points when he wrote:“The 2016 Crozes Hermitage from this terrific producer offers a big blast of classic Crozes – dark fruits, earth, truffle, olive, and pepper on the nose. This is followed by a medium-bodied, rounded, nicely concentrated effort that has good acidity, building tannins, and a great finish. An incredibly successful wine in this vintage, it will benefit from a year or two of bottle age and keep for 7-8 years.”

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gave it 91-93 points.

Tonight, the 2017 was bright ruby colored, medium full bodied, notes of floral and violets, black berry and dark plums fruits with notes of black olives, truffles and earth with hints of pepper on a silky smooth tannin laced finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2866234

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/05/french-wine-and-dine-experience.html 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3173385

Vieux Telgraphe Piedlong, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rhône Valley 2012 

We first discovered this label at Il Fiore Restaurant and Bar at the Langham Hotel in NYC last year. This is the second release of this Piedlong label that was first released in 2011. It comes from a 29 acre vineyard site from the stony soils on the Piedlong plateau in the heart of the appellation, north of the village, the highest point in the region. The Mourvèdre, comes from the Pignan lieu-dit, just to the east of Piedlong. We visited the Vieux Télégraphe estate during our CDP appellation tour back in 1998 and then again this year during our 2019 visit with owner/producer Alain Brunier at the Estate. was a highlight of our visit to the Luberon and Southern Rhône.

This label is a blend of 90% Genache Noir and 10% Mourvèdre. Comprised of but two varietals of the thirteen that are allowed in the AOC sanctioned blend, its a simpler less complex wine than the flagship label which under appellation rules can contain up to thirteen different varietals. 

The predominant Grenache grapes are sourced from 70 year old vines on the Vieux Telegraph 27 acre site on the stony Piedlong Plateau which is in the heart of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC area. Piedlong is north of the village at the highest point of the appellation. The Mourvèdre fruit is sourced from 50 year old vines on the 22 acre Pignan lieu-dit, east of Piedlong.

This 2012 Piedlong was only the second vintage for this label. It was vinified all in wood tank, with 30% whole-cluster, it possesses medium to full-bodied richness, firm tannin and excellent purity, with plenty of blackberry fruit, dried spice and licorice on the nose. It should continue to age nicely in the cellar and for another half decade or more. 

Giving up loads of kirsh, strawberry, dried soil, flowers and hints of meatiness; this classic Grenache is medium to full-bodied, ripe and textured, yet remarkably focused and fresh. While the acidity here is relatively low, it has plenty of fine tannin that keep it focused

Wine Advocate Jeb Dunnuck gave this wine 91-93 points.

Wine Spectator J.Molesoworth and International Wine Cellar Josh Reynolds both gave this 92 points.

Bright ruby color, medium-full bodied, vibrant black cherry and black raspberry fruits accented by dried flowers and peppery spices, notes of kirsch, dark mocha chocolate with a gripping but manageable tannins on a long lingering finish. 

RM 91 points.
 

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/02/piedlong-cdp-foie-gras-il-fiore-langham.html

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1775915

 
Château des Eyrins - La Closerie des Eyrins - Margaux 2015

We stayed a short walk from this estate during our recent trip to Margaux. Husband-wife winemaking team Julie and Xavier Gonet-Médeville are a prodigy of French wines having both been raised in notable winemaking families: Julie’s family famous for its incomparable Chateau Gilette, and Xavier comes from a long line of Champagne growers in Le Mesnil.

Julie and Xavier bought the seven-acre Château des Eyrins estate in the village of Margaux from Eric Grangerou in 2008. The Grangerou family has been cellar masters for Château Margaux for three generations. Sited on a hillside plateau in the heart of Margaux, Château des Eyrins produces a classic Margaux: dense and deep, with incredible finesse and freshness, the wine undeniably expresses the identity of this glorious appellation.

This is the second wine of this small boutique producer - a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and the remaining 35 Petit Verdot. Evidence that in great vintages, all boats rise with the tide and second labels can also be quite nice, offering wonderful QPR (quality price ratio).

This was a nice progression in our wine flight to a more focused, complex and sophisticated wine to accompany our dinner entrees; dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, elegant, polished and nicely integrated notes of black cherry, ripe plum, accents of spice box, dried herbs, tobacco leaf and silky smooth tannins on a moderate lingering finish. 

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3221599

Domaine du Collier Saumur La Ripaille 2015

From a small lot producer, not yet on the winelist, this label rounded out our flight for a simpler, more focused and enjoyable sipper to wind down our dinner evening. Comprised of 100% Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, the vines of Domaine du Collier lie within small parcels which are separated from its neighbors by a 12th century wall which protects the site from chemicals that may be used by neighbors in their farming. 

Each of the domaine's parcels lie on the flowing hill now famously known as the Brézé commune. The domaine is split 2/3 to 1/3 - Chenin to Cabernet Franc. For this La Ripaille rouge, vines range from 30 to 80 years in age. 

Aged for 3 years in a combination of used Burgundy barriques (1-3 years old). The domaine as a whole produces around only 1200 cases per year.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, bright vibrant, focused black raspberry and black berry fruits with notes of spice, herbs and cigar box. 

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3268778

https://www.bellemorechicago.com

@bellemorechi 

Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Vintage Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Carpineto Poggio Sant' Enrico Toscana at Italian Village Business Dinner

We had a mid-week business dinner with my team and a key partner visiting from overseas. We dined at our regular dinner meeting site Italian Village Chicago, as I wrote in a recent blogpost.

While my staff pokes fun at me for being such a creature of habit, our guests don't know any better and are well served by the experience. Wine Director Jared Gelband took good care of us as usual with a couple exemplary wines suited to the occasion and to our dinner selections.

The depth of the Italian Village cellar, with over ten thousand bottles, allows them to hold and serve a wine that is going on ten or beyond twenty years of age, at or near its prime drinking window, as opposed to turning their inventory and serving wines early and young.

Normally, as I did at another business dinner the next evening, I would take the opportunity to taste several wines, ordering a different wine with each bottle. Tonight, contrary to my usual practice, this was so good, we drank three bottles of the same label.

Gianni Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva Villa Gemma 2011 

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is made from the Montepulciano wine varietal grape in the Abruzzo region of east-central Italy, not to be confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, the Tuscan wine made from Sangiovese  grapes. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo was classified as Denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) in 1968. Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is one of the most widely exported DOC wines in Italy.

Founded in 1981, Masciarelli and its wines have become a standard-bearer for Abruzzo. Since the age of 22, producer  Gianni Masciarelli has dedicated his life to his home of Abruzzo and its native grape varieties to produce world-class wines. He focused on intense rigorous vineyard management, reducing yields, working organically, thereby greatly increasing fruit quality.

In the winery, he adopted new conventions of gently and precisely handling fruit, and introducing French barriques to add depth and complexity to his wines, resulting in better integration of tannin. The work of Gianni and his wife Marina Cvetic in the vineyards and the winery has been rewarded with 29 Tre Bicchieri and they are today recognized as a groundbreaking and iconic winery in Italy.

Started in Gianni Masciarelli's grandfather's basement, Villa Gemma highlights the best of Abruzzo, showcasing the terroir of the region and the Montepulciano grapes of Abruzzo.

Villa Gemma Montepulciano d'Abruzzo produces powerful, intense wine of character and complexity, with deep fruit and complex earthy and spicy secondary characteristics that represent the highest achievement of the potential from the Montepulciano grape in Abruzzo.

This wine is produced from a single designated site in Montepulciano, from the Colle Cave vineyard in Chieti, the vineyard directly behind the house of Gianni's grandfather, and where his grandfather first started making wine in 1930. This terroir of the steep-sloped site consists of limestone, clay and gravel, and the historic traditional pergola vine training has been replaced by the modern day French Guyot training system.

This is the winery’s flagship label, produced from 100% Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. It embodies all the style and taste of the winemaker Gianni Masciarelli in an austere and complex Montepulciano D’Abruzzo Villa Gemma that represents a perfect interpretation of Abruzzo’s most noble grape, now fairly acknowledged in the world map of viticulture that counts.

Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied, intensely structured, rich, complex, powerful yet graceful at the same time, ripe black and red fruits with hints of anise and toasted nut and oak, the tannins are restrained and silky smooth on the polished and elegant finish. 

RM 93 points.  

James Suckling rated this wine 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2321957

@MasciarelliVini 

Our second wine of the evening was this Toscano IGT Sangiovese. 

Carpineto Poggio Sant' Enrico Toscana IGT Sangiovese 1999

As I write this, I reached back to Jared to make sure I had the correct label. Even though I saved the cork for reference, it mentioned the producer and Appodiati which is their name for their Single Vineyard Collection. 

Carpineto Single-Vineyard-Collection wines are only produced in great vintage years. The vineyards are selected based on the vintage results showing exceptional characteristics, which fully exemplify and glorify the terroir - the microclimatic characteristics of each area. The wines are crafted for very long ageing and are bottled without undergoing any kind of treatment. They are released only after a minimum of 5 years of bottle ageing.

This is 100% Sangiovese sourced from the Poggio Sant’Enrico Piccolo vineyard that was planted in 1978.

Ironically, as I researched this further, I noted that we drank the exact same label a year ago, almost to the date, with my same leadership team.

Tonight's experience was consistent with my tasting notes of a year ago when I wrote: 

"At nineteen (now twenty) years of age, this is at the apex of its drinking window but not likely to improve with further cellaring, rather more likely to start to diminish from here forward. '

"Dark, deep, blackish-ruby colored, full bodied with firm backbone of bold, intense black berry and ripe plum fruits, notes of black pepper, hints of smoke, leather and subtle vanilla with a long lingering supple tannin finish."

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=101164
 
https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2018/08/italian-village-chicago-for-reliable.html

www.carpineto.com

AXΩ Reunion Wine Flight

White Wine Flight for Sisters' Gala Reunion Dinner

Linda hosted her Alpha Chi Omega (AXΩ) sisters' reunion dinner and I put together a flight of white wines for the occasion.

The sisters gathered in Naperville as their destination reunion site and stayed at the Indigo Hotel downtown, and dined in town Friday night.

Tonight, Linda hosted them at our house and served grilled salmon and beef tenderloin with grilled cauliflower.

Before dinner I served a selection of artisan cheeses with biscuits including creamy Harvarti, Brie, Gorgonzola, Blue, Parmesan and a hearty Camembert.

The wine flight:

Twomey Napa Sonoma Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Hungry Blonde Napa Valley Carneros Chardonnay 2016
Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Chardonnay 2017
Raymond Napa Valley Chardonnay 2017

Château Doisy-Védrines Sauterne 2006

For reds I opened a whimsical Marilyn Merlot 2014 and a Andretti Montona Reserve Merlot 2015.

Twomey Napa / Sonoma Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Twomey's estate Sauvignon Blanc is the quintessential California expression of this varietal. Sourced from four estate-owned vineyards, 52% from two in Napa Valley, Calistoga and Oakville, and 48% from two in Sonoma Russian River Valley Merino Vineyard and Healdsburg, the wine is aged for five months, about 46% in wood and the rest in tank or concrete.

Light golden butter and straw color, light bodied, nicely balanced, bright aromatics of tropical fruits - mango, guava, a hint of ginger, apple and peach aromas, bright vibrant citrus opening turning to hints of lime, Meyer lemon, grapefruit and grassy herbal notes. Nicely balanced acidity on a crisp refreshing finish. 

RM 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2948281

https://twomey.com/wines/sauvignon-blanc/sauvignon-blanc/


Hungry Blonde Napa Valley Carneros Chardonnay 2016

What a fun wine to serve for such an occasion. The joys of having a broad cellar selection from which to source for a special setting. This was a big hit with the ladies with the cheese, salad and dinner courses.

Winemaker notes for the 2016, "Our Hungry Blonde Chardonnay is the perfect expression of cool-climate Napa Valley Chardonnay from the Carneros region. Inviting aromas of lemon zest and white flowers make way for waves of bosc pear, Tahitian vanilla, and baked apple tart. All held together with fresh acidity and a supple texture inviting another sip."

As I reported in my earlier blogpost on this wine, "according to Wine Country Connection, Hungry Blonde is made by the well known Napa producer Cary Gott. The fruit comes from the Poe Vineyard, which sits adjacent to the world renowned Hyde Vineyard. Larry Hyde’s HDV Chardonnay, sells for $60."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3289150

https://unwindwine.blogspot.com/2019/09/davis-estate-hungry-blonde-carneros.html

Freemark Abbey Chardonnay Napa Valley 2017

From one of our favorite and widely held producers, we own or have consumed Freemark Abbey Napa Valley wines going back three decades - most their portfolio of Cabernet Sauvignons.

I picked this up a couple weeks ago and we served it a family dinner. I like it so much, I went out and purchased more. 

This is their standard estate Napa Valley Chardonnay. It is sourced from five different vineyards: Huichica Hills  (37.9%), Rancho Sarco (29.6%), Ahmann Vineyard-Carneros (24.3%), Keyes Vineyard-Howell Mountain (6.7%), and Spring Mtn AVA (1.5%).

The Freemark Abbey premium Chardonnays are single vineyard or single AVA designated selections while this is sourced from all their vineyards to meet the large quantity of the offering. Still it is excellent and offers very good QPR - (Quality Price Ratio).

This is 85% aged in oak barrels with roughly 19% new French oak.

Winemaker's Notes for this release: "Light greenish straw in color, our chardonnay expresses fruit aroma of ripe pineapple, ripe banana, guava, apricot, peach and tropical fruit cocktail. Adding to the complexity, the oak aging is fairly integrated adding spice like nutmeg, light toast, and the nuance of angel food cake. This wine has great viscosity, depth and an intriguing long finish. The flavors are lively on the palate with pear, citrus, lemonlime, green apple and fleshy peach. This wine shows great complexity, creaminess, and elegance to compliment many foods."

I give this 91 points.

This was rated 94+ by WA and 91 by JS. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3214292

https://www.freemarkabbey.com/

Raymond Reserve Napa Valley Chardonnay 2017

This is a bit of branding tomfoolery calling this a 'Reserve' bottling. Usually, a 'Reserve' wine is a selection of the finest batches or lots, or selected from the finest blocks in the vineyard, or even the finest grapes set aside for a special bottling. Antics like this lead to branding confusion, and confusion about wine in general, and is the basis or the premise of this blog unwindwine - making sense of wine.

Like the Freemark Abbey Chardonnay above, this is the 'standard' estate bottled large volume Chardonnay, from this long time Napa producer. The Raymond estate is situated just off Highway 29 on Zinfandel Lane just south of the town of St Helena.

Winemaker notes for this release: "Aromas of honeysuckle and orange blossoms followed by lemon, lime and pear notes amid toasted almond and honey. A rich, full, mouth feel with balanced acidity and bright lemon, pear, lime and passion fruit flavors followed by a smooth vanilla and toasted oak finish."

RM 88 points. 

https://raymondvineyards.com/

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3340227

Château Doisy-Védrines Sauterne 2006

This is a Second Cru Classé (French, “Second Growth”) classic Sauterne, ideal for salad, cheese or dessert. This is one of the regular producer's that show this wine at the annual UGCB release tour.

This was a nice complement to the fresh berries and flowerless chocolate cake with creme fraisch.

Wine Spectator notes on this release: "Shows a solid core of fruit, with spice, honey, lemon and lime. Full-bodied and medium sweet. Spicy and very minerally. Long and balanced. Almost 92-94."

Neal Martin for Robert Parker wrote: "Very expressive nose, tropical fruits, honey, well-integrated new oak, good definition. Gets better with aeration. A crisp, well defined palate with attractive honeyed fruits, orange zest and a nice citrus kick towards the finish. Just lacks the depth of flavour compared to Doisy Daene, but there is still an attractive joie-de-vivre, plus the strict selection of grapes has rid the wine of any rot. Very fine effort, very pretty and elegant. Tasted March 2007.
Score: 91/93"

K&L's notes - At Joanne-spicy aromas and flavor. Fine balance. At UGC-a fatter style with fine depth and length. Clean acidity. Very good as usual.

My notes - Weak tea colored, medium bodied, the sweet nectar tones were overtaken by a slight layer of smokiness and mineral detracting from the normal desired experience - tasty none-the-less.

We still hold about a half case of this release and its probably time to drink up as it will not likely improve with any further aging.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=361714

Andretti Montona Reserve Merlot 2013