Thursday, May 23, 2019

Diamond Creek Gravelly Meadow Duo

Diamond Creek Gravelly Meadow Duo highlight grilled beefsteak dinner

Getaway weekend in Charleston to visit dear friends and fellow 'Pour Boy' Bill and Beth on Seabrook Island, SC, I took a twenty year old Diamond Creek Gravelly Meadow and Bill pulled a ten year old to share and compare with grilled beefsteak dinner.

What an interesting comparison of an iconic classic vineyard designated wine that is the epitome of terroir. Terroir refers to the elements of 'place', all the characteristics of a vineyard site that manifest in the wine - soil, elevation, drainage, sun exposure, proximity to climate impacting bodies of water ocean, bay or river valley, climate and micro-climate. 

Diamond Creek Vineyards is known for its vineyard designated select wines from the four legendary vineyards on the property that each have a distinctive terroir character and profile due to their individual geology on the opposing sides of the Creek and the valley. Each of the four vineyards are featured on their own Vineyard designated labels that describe the contributing geology to their distinctive component of terroir - Red Rock Terrace, Volcanic Hill, Lake Vineyard, and this label, Gravelly Meadow.

Legendary vineyards of Diamond Creek

Diamond Creek Vineyards - Rick, Dan, Bill in 2017

Diamond Creek Vineyards straddle the Diamond Creek near the bottom of Diamond Mountain, at the north end of the Mayacamas Range above the town of Calistoga, in the northwest corner of Napa Valley. All the Diamond Creek Vineyards wines are Cabernet Sauvignon.

We visited Diamond Creek Estate for a culinary tasting experience back in 2011, and then in 2017 for their release party for the 2015 vintage release open house in 2017.

Bill and Beth, Jan and Bill, Linda and I with Boots Brownstein,
Diamond Creek Owner, Proprietor, in 2011
Tonight's comparison tasting showcased the difference in age and its effect on the wine, in combination with the variations of two contrasting vintages, a ten year old from 2009 vs. a twenty year old from 1999. Vintage variations are mostly characterized by seasonal temperatures, the length of the growing season, and the amount and timing of rainfall.


The 2009 growing season was ideal in Napa Valley providing winemakers lush, beautiful grapes for great wine. Late spring rains delayed irrigation needs and the warm spell in June helped curtail excessive canopy development. There were nearly only four or five 100+ degree days, compared to fourteen in a typical growing season, thus helping to reduce demand for water when the resource was relatively scarce.

Rainfall was little more than two-thirds of normal but the timing of the precipitation was ideal for the vines. There was lack of frost and a mild, relatively cool growing season, resulting in the best scenario possible for the vines and optimal grape production.

In 1999 the long, cool spring gave way to a mild summer with only one heat spike recorded in the first part of July, the vintage ripened under conditions that allowed a long hang-time that resulted in fruit of concentrated varietal flavors with a strong backbone of acid. 

Diamond Creek Vineyards Gravelly Meadow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1999



My Cellartracker records indicate we hold ten vintages of this label going back to the 1983 vintage. We're holding this wine for our kids' birth years 1990, 1985, and daughter-in-law's 1983. We consider this a 'special occasion' wine. It's a special treat to compare multiple vintages.

At twenty years of age this wine is likely at the apex of its drinking window, certainly not to improve with further aging, but probably nearing the end of its prime drinkability.

Dark garnet color with purple sprites, medium bodied, complex moderate blackberry, black currant and plum fruits turning to tobacco, notes of graphite and cedar wood, frontal bright acidity is pronounced and a bit obtuse turning to gripping tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 91 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=15225


Diamond Creek Vineyards Gravelly Meadow Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

A great example of the opportunity to taste two vintage releases side by side to appreciate the nuances of age and the different vintages.  The 2009 came across as more elegant and polished than the 1999 which in comparison was a bit flabby, no more or less complex, but the '09 benefiting from the more graceful and well behaved acid and tannins.

Bill's Cellartracker tasting notes on this wine:

"Deep ruby color. Nose consists of chocolate, graphite and a bit of earth. On the palate there are notes of black cherry, raspberry, chocolate, tobacco with well integrated, silky smooth, plush tannins. Full bodied with a finish that goes on and on. Drank this side by side with a 1999 Gravelly Meadow representing a 10 year old and a 20 year old mini vertical. The 99 still had plenty of fruit but had evolved to a more earthy bordeaux profile. However, there was no doubt of the parentage of the two wines. Style and profile were very similar. Delicious now. I know how long lasting Diamond Creek is having served birth year magnums from '82, '84 and '89 at my children's weddings. However, based in part on this experience, I wonder if I don't tend to wait too long. Think I will start drinking earlier."

WCC - 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1114057

Before dinner, Bill also served one of our favorites, Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc, and then a classic Chateau St Jean Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and a Robert Craig Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet which I write about in this separate blogpost.

Chateau St Jean Sonoma Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

We tasted and Bill acquired this bottle when we visited the Chateau back in 2009. We have visited the Chateau St Jean estate in northern Sonoma Valley and had private tastings with Bill and Beth twice - during our Napa, Sonoma Wine Experience in 2017, and, back in 2009 during our Sonoma Harvest Tour '09 - Chateau St Jean.

Bill's Cellartracker tasting notes for this evening's tasting of this wine:

"Deep indigo in color. Mixed fruit on the palate...blackberry, black raspberry and cassis along with a touch of cedar, tobacco box and mocha. Great long lasting legs. Full bodied with a medium finish. I would say this is in the peak of its drinking window. Will still last several more years but unlikely to improve"

WCC - 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=659625

Bill and Beth at magnificent Chateau St Jean estate
Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2017

Another one of our favorite producers and 'go to' wines, Cliff Lede and his Sauvignon Blanc. Also, another producer estate that we we have visited together with Bill and Beth during our Napa Valley Wine Experiences. We have visited the Cliff Lede estate together several times including this private tasting - Cliff Lede Stag's Leap District Vineyard & Winery Visit - Autumn '2009.





Bill's notes from this tasting:


"Crisp, clean and refreshing. Pale straw color. Zesty grapefruit and lemon on the palate. Nicely balanced acidity. Always a favorite."

WCC - 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2942346

Sunday, May 19, 2019

Del Dotto Cinghiale Vineyard Fort Ross Seaview Sonoma Coast Syrah

Del Dotto Cinghiale Vineyard Fort Ross Seaview Sonoma Coast Syrah 2014

We've been collecting Del Dotto wines since their inaugural release back in 1993 and they represent one of the largest holdings in our cellar collection. We discovered, tasted and acquired this label during our food and wine culinary tasting at Del Dotto Piazza winery last autumn. It was one of the highlights of our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2018 that week.

Just returning from France and South Africa where I tasted some great Syrahs from two diverse wine regions, I was eager to enjoy a top flight American Syrah from our cellar. Simply, this wine is delicious and represents the best of Syrah. It reflects the profile and style we love and was ideal for casual sipping with artisan cheeses and then some grilled ground beef.

The Del Dotto Cinghiale Vineyard sits atop the King Ridge, a cobbly, rocky hillside overlooking the Pacific Ocean on the Sonoma Coast, and the wine certainly reflects that terroir. Cinghiale is Italian for 'wild boar', a tribute to wild pigs that were found in the wild back country over the years.

The Del Dotto Cinghiale Vineyard is in the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA (appellation). The newest Sonoma County AVA, it was carved out of the larger Sonoma Coast AVA to recognize its unique terroir of of elevation, coastal breezes and fog and the special characteristics of this remote and rugged region.

The Fort Ross-Seaview AVA has 500 vineyard acres that are known for most sought-after Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but it also includes this Syrah and even some South African Pinotage grape varietals. The 27,500-acre Fort Ross-Seaview American viticultural area was awarded AVA status in 2011.

Dark deep inky purple garnet colored, full bodied, rich, concentrated but superbly balanced and polished and not the least bit overpowering, sprites of ripe berries up throughout, accented by sweet floral notes, sweet notes of sandalwood that almost conjure hints of root beer, turning to hints of smoke, menthol and black peppercorn on a full throttled flavorful finish with silky smooth nicely polished tannins.

RM 94 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2470982

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/

Friday, May 17, 2019

Clos l'Église (Côtes de Castillon) Bordeaux

Clos l'Église Côtes de Castillon Bordeaux 2005

Just returned from France and an extended trip through EMEA (Europe Middle East and Africa), Linda prepared for me a home cooked meal and I pulled this Bordeaux wine to accompany the grilled steak dinner. I was looking in the cellar for my bottle of Quinault L'Enclos to compare with the one we drank the other night but came across this instead.

This exceeded my expectations, perhaps based on its price-point which rendered a high QPR (quality-price-ratio).

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, dark berry fruits accented by notes of leather, tobacco, tea and hints of menthol, turning to nice fine grained tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=230916

Wednesday, May 15, 2019

Auberge Etchegorry Authentic French Basque Dining Experience

Auberge Etchegorry Authentic French Basque Dining Experience

For our last night in Paris, wrapping up our EMEA roadtrip, we sought a simple, casual but authentic French dining experience. We found that plus a bit of history in Auberge Etchegorry, just a short walk from our hotel, as a perfect option. 

Located in the 13th, just a 5 minute walk from Place d'Italie Metro station, or from our Rive Gauche Marriott, Auberge Etchegorry sits in the charming Gobelins area on a quiet cobblestone street over looking a park. A former cabaret, it offers a step back in time with its original setting, its red and flowery facade and period decoration. 

According to history and legend,  the house was frequented by Victor Hugo, Chateaubriand and Beranger and was then called the Cabaret of Madame Gregoire. 

The bar features a mural painting of the eighteenth century Cabaret of Mrs. Grégoire. The restaurant and adjacent hotel du Vert Galant have been in the same family for 6 decades.

Today, Auberge Etchegorry ("Red House" in Basque) is known for its Southwestern specialties: Chipirons in ink and pequillos stuffed with cod, homemade pudding with caramelized apples, paupiettes duck with foie gras, sweetbreads, scallops scented with morels, terrine of foie gras marinated with Jurançon.

There are but a couple of al fresco tables out front, a small dinning room adjacent the bar on the ground floor, and a small dining room looking out over the treetops on the second floor.

Three of us feasted on the house specialty,  Roasted duck breast in honey and spices. One of us chose another house specialty, the seared Foie gras that looked delectable and was reported to be 'to die for'. I opted for the Foie gras terrine flavoured with Jurancon wine and toast, which was excellent. 

Our other colleague had the Hake fish with hazelnut crust, celery puree. 

Following dinner we had the cheese plate and then the Le gâteau basque. 

The portions were generous, the our server Wallace and the rest of the waitstaff were attentive and the selections were delicious, especially the Foie gras.  

Domaine Pradelle Crozes-Hermitage 2016

For our opening courses we ordered this Croze-Hermitage Syrah which went supurbly with the Foie Gras starters. This was a nice comparison to the Croze Hermitage we tasted just yesterday. In comparison, this label is a fraction of the price of the one we had yesterday and was relatively less polished and not as nicely balanced. It was enjoyable and appropriate for our none-the-less.

Deep purple in color, medium in body, with soft tannins and medium acidity, aromas and flavors of ripe black currants, blackberries, cloves, as well as freshly cracked pepper leading to a moderately long finish.
RM 87 points.  

Château Saransot-Dupré Listrac-Medoc Bordeaux 2011

We finished with this Left Bank Bordeaux which was a nice accompaniment to our entrees, the cheeses and the dessert course. 

Dark garnet color medium bodied, complex and forward blackberry, plum and black cherry fruits with notes of tobacco, earth and herbs with firm tangy tannins on a lingering finish. A nice value QPR (Quality Price Ratio) wine.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1721984



French Wine and Dine experience - Parisien business dinner

French Wine and Dine experience - Parisien business dinner


For a valued customer and partner meeting, we dined near the client site in the business district of Paris-La Défense, in the heights of the Puteaux neighborhood at La Escargot 1903

In the Paris-La Défense area, it is less than 10 minutes from the Porte Maillot and 5 minutes from the Pont de Neuilly-sur-Seine. The restaurant is situated in a cottage-house atop the hill above the train, a short one block walk from the station.

The restaurant held a Michelin Star, earned under the leadership of young Paolo Boscaro, then lost it when he left to head the brigade of the Swiss restaurant of Anne-Sophie. The post has now been taken over by Chef Yannick Tranchant, (formerly La Grande Cascade and Neva) who is working to restore it to earlier prominence and achievement. 

We dined on the Menu du Chef, a six service selection, and a flight of accompanying wines from the wine list. 



The wine flight from the winelist:  



The food courses and accompanying wines:

Egg, peas, bacon

Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage 2016 

I asked for the St Joseph but they were out and substituted this label instead. This is exactly the style and profile that I was seeking.

From the vineyards of Crozes Hermitage that surround the hill of Hermitage, though they do not rise as high, nor are they on the steepest slopes. The difference between the wines of Crozes Hermitage and Hermitage is mainly the soil, as one comes down the Hermitage slopes the soil profile changes from hard granite rock to denser, sandier, clay rich soils.

Alain Graillot has been producing wines since 1985. Born in the Northern Rhône, he left to pursue a career in business, but returned home to his dream of creating great wines. Without the opportunity of stepping into an existing family winery, Alain undertook formal studies in Burgundy while seeking the guidance and inspiration of the best of the new generation of winemakers including Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac. He has 15 hectares of vineyards in Crozes Hermitage as well as 1 hectare in St-Joseph. He matures his red wines in one year old french oak barrels from Burgundy.

Bright ruby colored, medium full bodied, notes of floral and violets, black berry and dark plums fruits with silky smooth tannins.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2866234

Whitefish

Damien Laureau Savennières Les Genêts Val de Loire 2014

The Savennières appellation, including its ‘Grand Cru’ sub-appellations of Roche Aux Moines and Coulée de Serrant, is planted with 156 hectares of vineyard (100% Chenin Blanc) and produces some of the most noble and age-worthy dry white wines of France. Damien Laureau is widely acclaimed as one of Savennières’ top producers.

Often referred to as one of the appellation’s ‘new’ superstars, Damien has 20 vintages of experience. Coming from a family farming background, he started out working with his uncle at a small vineyard in Anjou in the mid 1990s.

By 1999 he had acquired his first vines in Savennières and in 2006 he abandoned the Anjou appellation to focus specifically on Savennières. Since then has gradually increased his vineyard sources through both acquisition and leasing, to the still very boutique total of 8.5 hectares.


Straw colored, light medium bodied, lively acidity highlights notes of green apple, pear and hints of peach, floral, and crushed stone, turning to a long finish of spice, tangy acid and minerality.

RM 88

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2514316


 
Pork


Xavier Monnot Maranges 1er Cru Clos de la Fussière Côte de Beaune 2016


Xavier Monnot is a leading producer in Meursault. Prior to the release of the 2005 vintage, the property was known as Domaine René Monnier (Xavier's grandfather). In 2005, along with improvements in the vineyard and cellar, Xavier began bottling his wines under his own label.

Domaine Xavier Monnot is a 42 acre estate in Meursault with vineyards stretching from Beaune to Maranges. 60% of the Domaine's production is white and 40% red with several premier crus in Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Beaune, Volnay, and Maranges. Xavier maintains an average vine age of 30 to 40 years and practices lutte raisonnée (“reasoned struggle”).

Clos de la Fussière is a 2.6 acre block within and towards the bottom of La Fussière premier cru in Dezize-les-Maranges. It is a monopole belonging to of Xavier Monnot’s family for five generations. It is a steep, south-facing site that gives a wine that is rich, fleshy and dense.

Three villages at the southernmost end of the Côte de Beaune make up the Maranges AOC: Cheilly-lès-Maranges, Dezize-lès-Maranges and Sampigny-lès-Maranges.

Bright ruby color, medium body, vibrant floral spice and cherry fruits with dusty rose and soft smooth tannins on the lingering finish.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2613365



Jean Marc Grussaute Jurançon Costat Darrer 2017

Since 2015, grape harvests at the estate of Jean-Marc Grussaute were not acceptable or sufficient for production, so fruit was sourced from neighboring winegrowers GC Pedeflous, SD Lacazette and P Vignau, hence the subtitle of the wine "the grains of friends". 

Grape variety: 20% big manseng and 80% small manseng

Winemaker Notes: This wine of pleasure is characterized by its fruity and freshness. Its assertive character remains bordered by a soft and velvety sensation on the palate and a fruity finish. Very good balance between sugar and acidity. The aromatic range always expresses ripe and exotic fruits (tangerine, grilled pineapple, mango ...)

Light honey colored, medium body, tangy stone fruit, hints of peach, tangerine and mango.

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3303965













Tuesday, May 14, 2019

Dinesite London 34 Mayfair for classy business wine dinner


Dinesite London 34 Mayfair for classy business wine dinner


For a team dinner upon our first and only night in London, we dined across Grosvenor Square from our hotel at 34 Mayfair Restaurant in the shadow of the old US Embassy, now being completely renovated into a chic upscale hotel.


34 Mayfair is trendy, cosmopolitan, chic and vibrant with a steak and seafood menu and a superb upscale winelist – ideal for our team dinner the night before our UK customer roundtable.



Normally, I would opt for Dover sole, especially on this side of the pond, but I was intrigued by the Saltcoats Scottish beef steak, especially when colleague Alastair shared with us that it was raised from where his ‘mum’ hails, hence we opted for the local fare – each of us in the bone in ribeye (shown).


For the entrée course we ordered from the winelist a Bordeaux Grand Cru Classe which proved to be a perfect complement to our steak dinner selections.



Château Quinault L'Enclos St Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2012


We have tasted this wine at the UGCB annual release tour on several occasions and hold several vintages of this label dating back to 2003. This vintage release adorns a different new branding label from our older vintages, which apparently was changed around the 2009 vintage.

This was more forward, expressive and vibrant than I ever remember for this label.


This was bright ruby colored, medium full bodied, nicely integrated and balanced, bright vibrant forward fruits of black berry, black currant, spice, notes of oak and a layer of tangy cherry on the pronounced tannin finish.


RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1605570



Chapoutier and Laughton La Pléîade Heathcote Shiraz 2013 

For our dessert course, I was intrigued by and selected this Heathcote Shiraz, from Victoria Australia, partly due to the notable well known Rhone producer Michel Chapoutier, and this wine's Australian origin, and the distinctive creative label branding. I was previously not aware of an Australian offering from Michel Chapoutier. 

This particular label is named after the celestial constellation Pléîade, which adorns the front label solely, sans any other markings or information, save a couple wine blots. 

La Pléiade is a collaborative effort between Michel and Corrine Chapoutier and Ron and Eva Laughton. Their intent was to make a terroir driven wine out of simple land right on a clay fault in Australia. In 1990, the idea of terroir was new to that continent. 

A former food scientist, Ron Laughton and his wife Elva created their Jasper Hill estate in Heathcote, Victoria in 1975 (70 miles north of Melbourne), drawn by the region’s distinctive geology, namely an iron-rich seam of Cambrian clay on which the vineyards are strategically located.

According to the rear label, the partnership between Michael and Corrine Chapoutier and Ron and Elva Laughton is imported into the UK by Yapp Brothers Ltd, yapp.co.uk, so it is not necessarily available in the US, hence an interesting find to taste when the chance presents itself.


This may have been produced with the British or European palette in mind. At 14.0% alcohol it was much more tame and subdued than many of the big Aussie Shiraz’s imported into the US to a market favoring big bold concentrated and firmly structured fruit forward and high alcohol content wines.


Ron Laughton has a longstanding friendship with Michel Chapoutier who formed this joint venture vineyard planted with a mixture of Heathcote Shiraz and Hermitage Syrah in 1998. The resultant wine was called 'La Pleiade', named after the constellation visible from both hemispheres.

The partnership between Michel Chapoutier from France's Rhone region and Ron Laughton of the Heathcote estate, Jasper Hill was founded in 1997. Their first vintage release was in 2003. Initially called "Cambrian," "Cluster M45" is now the U.S. label for this wine, known as "La Pleiade" elsewhere. It is made from 100% Shiraz from a 20-acre single vineyard just south of Jasper Hill's Georgia's Paddock, which is planted with a 50/50 mix of vines taken from Jasper Hill and Chapoutier's vineyards (imported from France). 
 
This was garnet colored, but medium bodied with black berry fruits with notes of spices and hints of tea, leather, tobacco leaf and mineral on the moderate finish.
 

RM 89 points.