Saturday, February 27, 2016

D'Yquem, Quintessa, Saxum Highlight OTBN 2016 - Three tastings flights

D'Yquem, Quintessa, Saxum Highlight OTBN 2016  - Three tastings flights in one

OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, 2016 - the annual wine tasting extravaganza was held according to custom, on the last Saturday night in February.

Attending were all the 'Pour Boys', (left) our regular wine tasting group, so named for our work pouring wines at the UGCB tasting events

Based on the breadth and depth of selected wines brought by the participants, this year's tasting ended up being three different wine tastings - a white flight with the pre-dinner starter course, a Bordeaux (blend) flight with the dinner course, and a dessert flight with the final course.

Ernie preparing
bacon wrapped dates
OTBN - Open That Bottle Night, was conceived on the premise that many of us have a special bottle of wine or champagne hidden away being saved for a special occasion that for whatever reason hasn't happened, yet.

Every year since 2000, on the last Saturday night in February, Open That Bottle Night (OTBN) has been celebrated - the time to uncork and enjoy that cherished but here-to-for elusive bottle.

OTBN was conceived by Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, Wine Columnists for the Wall Street Journal, to say, what the heck, go for it, Open That Bottle (to)Night. They realized they weren't alone - having that special bottle set aside for an occasion that just never happens. On this night, you don't need an excuse or a reason - just do it!

Take advantage of OTBN to open that bottle and enjoy it! Enjoy it by yourself, or better yet, enjoy it with someone special, or even better, with a group of special friends. Have everyone bring such a bottle and let the story telling begin, because amazingly, every OTBN bottle has a story or some meaning, or not. What the heck, Open That Bottle (To) Night!

Shown left, Lyle decanting the Croft 1991 Vintage Port and John preparing the artisan cheeses.
See our 2011, 20122013, 2014  and 2015 OTBN reports.

According to customary protocol for OTBN, we agreed to not set a theme for the evening, but to adhere to the spirit of bringing select wine (s) for the occasion. Bring a special bottle you're eager to try, and share, and bring along a complimentary side dish or dessert that will showcase the wine selection.

The result was selections that worked out well with complementary or distinguished wines that resulted in the three courses of the evening.


For the starter course, we had a selection of artisan cheeses, shrimp cocktail, a fig pizza, and deviled eggs. The cheese course consisted of two Wisconsin Aged cheeses, a Gouda and an eighteen year aged cheddar, brought by John, and Linda's Baked Brie with toasted almonds and honey drizzle.

To accompany the starter course we had a flight of white wines - listed in tasting order, Grgich Fume Blanc, FogDog Sonoma Chardonnay, Freestone Vineyard Sonoma Chardonnay, Sebastian Riffault Sauletas Sancerre, and of course there is always a place for a sparkling wine, John sourced this Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blanc Champagne brut (left).

As a transition to the reds, John served a Saumur Loire Valley Sancerre Reserve Cabernet Franc.

Grgich Napa Estate Valley Fume Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2010

FogDog Sonoma County Chardonnay 2006

Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyards Estate Sonoma County Chardonnay 2009

Sebastian Riffault Sauletas Sancerre 2010

Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blanc Champagne Brut


The dinner course consist of beef tenderloin, dry rubbed baby back pork ribs, rosemary escalloped au gratin potatoes, hericot verts, and dinner salad with rosemary butter toasted French Bread. The transition from the white to the red course was Saumur Loire Valley Sancerre Reserve Cabernet Franc 2005.

The wine flight to accompany the dinner course was a series of Bordeaux, kicked off by a Napa Cabernet based Red Blend from Quintessa. Bill brought the 2006 vintage Quintessa that stood alone in its bright vibrant symphony of fruits, almost a meal in itself! This big forward Napa Bordeaux Blend anchored and opened the red flight of Bordeaux's.

Quintessa Napa Valley Rutherford Red Wine 2006

The wine flight to accompany the dinner course was a series of Bordeaux, kicked off by a Napa Cabernet based Red Blend from Quintessa. Quintessa refers to the five hills and five disparate terroir and soil types on the estate vineyards in Napa Valley. Our visit to the magnificent Quintessa Estate vineyards and winery was a highlight of our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2003

Bill brought the 2006 vintage Quintessa that stood alone in its bright vibrant symphony of fruits, almost a meal in itself! This big forward Napa Bordeaux Blend anchored and opened the red flight of Bordeaux's.

Quintessa 2006 - a standout
in the red flight
From Bill's cellar, his tasting notes from Cellartracker - "The best and most expressive of 3 or 4 vintages of this tasted to date. Deep, opaque color. Rich and full on the palate with layers of fruit (blackberry, cassis and a hint of sour cherry), savory notes of dark chocolate with maybe a hint of fig, with a classic earthy, mineral Bordeaux finish and a huge mouthfeel. This was my contribution to Open That Bottle Night. Still have one bottle left and wish I had more however this was at its best early in the evening and began to flatten after about three hours."

This was the most expressive and vibrant Quintessa I've had. Bright full, forward black raspberry notes with tones of spicy oak, cassis and mocha ...

WCC and RM - 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=658175



Then on to the Bordeaux dinner flight ... 


Château Cos Labory St Estephe 2003

Château Lynch Moussas Pauillac 2003

Château Lafon Rochet St Estephe 1996






Château Léoville Las Cases St Julien 1996


 This 1996 initially overshadowed the more subdued 1986 with far more vibrant, fuller and more expressive fruits. Only after a day did the 1986 open up and reveal its true character and potential. 


 Château Léoville Las Cases St Julien 1986

I was expecting the duo of the twenty and thirty year old Leoville Las Cases to be a highlight of the tasting. Remarkably, the 1986 was initially a bit lean and austere, lacking the big firm backbone structure that was so notable from the vintage, and was actually overshadowed by the bigger, more complete '96.

After thirty years, this needed decanting and settling time, witnessed by the fact, the next evening it had opened and stabilized and was more balanced and polished.

In any event, the tasting profile of the classic 'super second' Estate was apparent in the the mini-horizontal of the two vintage flight.

At thirty years of age, I actually wonder if we drank the 1986 too soon!  Initially closed and a bit flabby, it needed decanting and a minimum of a couple hours to open and settle, it was better the next day, and even better the day after that!

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, beautiful floral bouquet, black berry and black cherry fruits with layers of cassis, bark, spice and earthy, leathery oak, subtle bell pepper with slight tangy bitterness turning to firm lingering tannins with a long long bright floral finish.

RM 93 points.

Robert Parker gave this wine 100 points.

Wine Spectator rated it 97. Perhaps they foretold its aging when they said this in their review .. "Amazingly focused, complex and deep, packed with currant, plum and berry flavors and notes of cedar and chocolate. The structure is tightly reined in and needs considerable cellaring to show what it can do."

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1622

The dessert flight ... 

After dinner we retreated to the dining room where we feasted on a dessert wine course, sweet sticky's, port and a big red wine flight that showcased the selection of desserts - Ernie's bacon wrapped figs, a selection of fresh berries - blackberry, red raspberry, and strawberry, fresh pineapple, dried apricots, two cakes - Terry's decadent mandarin orange and Linda's key lime cake - culminating in a selection of sweets including Linda's dark chocolate bark with cherries and pistachios, and chocolate covered pomegranate berries.


The showcase highlight wine for the dessert course was Chateau d'Yquem Sauterne Bordeaux 1986 from Ernie's cellar.

Chateau d'Yquem Sauterne Bordeaux 1986
 
This is a Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc Blend. The d'Yquem vineyardists make as many as two dozen passes through the vineyard selecting only the perfect grapes at the right picking time in each pass. The ultra selection of the rich ultra ripe grapes results in but one glass of wine per vine in a typical vintage.

Honey golden amber color, full bodied, rich thick, unctuous, concentrated, complex, elegant, smooth, silky polished nectar in a glass. Passion fruit, apricot and honey notes, sweet vanilla and candied fruit tones are accented by a layer of smoky almond nut tones.

This wine is a chameleon - its amazing complexity reflects the many dimensions of the myriad of  fruit, chocolate and fig bacon flavors tasted in concert. The many dimensions of this wine were highlighted by the disparate dessert selections. The triad of blackberry, bacon wrapped figs and the chocolate bark each revealed a different lens into the nuances of the complex Sauterne.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=14449

http://yquem.fr/int-en/ 

We followed this with a super sweet Kracher Scheurube Trockenbereen Auslese #12 1998.

The chocolate courses provided a transitional pivot from the sticky sweet wines to the vintage port and big red wines. Lyle brought a Croft Vintage Port 1991 and John provided a Saxum Broken Stones Red Blend 2006 from Paso Robles. With its monstrous 16.5% alcohol, it was fitting for the dessert course more than the dinner course and was a suitable finisher at the rear of the tasting.


Alois Kracher Scheurebe TBA #12 Zwischen den Seen 1998


From a half bottle. Brownish orange tea colored, full bodied, thick chewy, rich unctuous, concentrated sweet honey, smoky almonds, lychee, sweet ripe caramel apple, apricot, pear and balanced citrus acidity, the lychee, vanilla, orange blossom finish goes on and on. At 356 g/L of residual sugar, this has over three times the sweetness level of Coca-Cola but its fruit nectar essence makes for sensuous pleasant sipping.


RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=40335





Croft Vintage Port 1991

A saturated cork cast wonder at how this would be. Dark  blackish ruby color, full bodied, smooth, rich, concentrated, complex sweet black berry, black cherry, ripe black plum fruits with tobacco leaf and dark mocha tones and hints of cognac ... it tasted young and vibrant ... Lyle was concerned that this has lost is lusture but all concurred it is drinking fine and has decades of life left in the bottle.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=97828 

http://www.croftport.com/en/


Saxum Vineyards Broken Stones Red Blend 2006

In the style of a classic GSM, this was a blend of 63% Syrah, 24% Grenache, and 13% Mouvedre but sported a monstrous 16.5% alcohol level.

Dark blackish garnet color, full bodied, forward bold complex, concentrated black and blue berry fruits accented by a layer of spices, grilled meats, toast, tones of smoky tar, camphor, bell pepper and graphite with firm lingering tannins on the full finish.

This wine begs for the darkest mocha chocolate - a perfect accompaniment to the dark chocolate bark with cherries and pistachios.

RM 93

Robert Parker gave this wine 97 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=538829

http://www.saxumvineyards.com/wines/broken-stones

We finishing with a transitional return to Bordeaux with a 2003 Cos Labory St Estephe.

More to follow ...

Linda preparing dry rubbed baby backed ribs

Wednesday, February 24, 2016

Wine and Dine at Trattoria Fiamma MGM LAS

Wine and Dine at Trattoria Fiamma at MGM Grand Las Vegas - Massolino, Keenan and BV Tapestry

For a client dinner in Las Vegas we dined at Trattoria Fiamma at MGM Grand Hotel and Casino. Diners selected beef and other wine friendly dishes. From the winelist I selected an obligatory Italian, a Massolino Barolo, and then two well known popular Napa reds - BV Tapestry Reserve and Keenan Merlot

Only the largest cities offer the culinary selection of Las Vegas which also commands big city prices. The major hotels and casinos feature the world's greatest chefs' restaurants and the broadest range of dining choices. Each hotel is more sensational than the next. 

The MGM Grand features the incomparable Joël Robuchon French restaurant, Emeril's highly acclaimed New Orleans Fish House (where we dined last year during this same event), Tom Colicchio's Craftsteak (where we dined two years ago at this event), Shibuya swank Japanese sushi restaurant that offers over 125 sakes, and Fiamma Trattoria (left) with sophisticated traditional Italian cuisine.

Each offers impeccable service, knowledgeable wait staffs and sommelier wine service with award winning winelists.

Equally sensational as the surroundings are the architecture and design of the dining rooms and their eye-popping showcase wine cellars.  A stop in Joël Robuchon to view the menu and winelist revealed rare selections such as 1947 Château d'Yquem for $37000 (see our tasting of the fabulous Château d'Yquem 1986 this same week). The major hotel/casinos have upscale restaurant that offer such treasures - (see my blogposts on the fabulous Aureole Restaurant). Such a gathering in such close proximity is truly a Las Vegas sensation making it a culinary destination in its own right.

Our business focused non-wine enthusiast crowd called for a modicum of reasonableness in moderate wine selections. Hence, I chose some carefully selected, moderate priced well known predictably pleasant, easy drinking reds that would appeal to the group. The extensive winelists offer choices in all price ranges and styles. The disparate styles of the three wines suited the range of entree selections. 

I've learned that such encounters often result in a wine discovery for some of the diners who want to note the wine and try to obtain some to repeat the experience back home, hence I selected a couple wines that are generally available that provide repeatable quality enjoyable drinking at reasonable prices. 

We Midwesterners were basically meat and potatoes guys who feasted on a Midwestern style beef faire that was in abundance on the menu despite the Italian cuisine. All were excellent and great accompaniments to the red wine flight.
  • Barolo Braised Short Rib with Orange Gremolata, Yukon Gold Potato Puree, Cipollini Onions, Baby Carrots
  •  Beef Tenderloin Marsala with Tagliatelle Pasta, and Mushroom Marsala Sauce
  • Beef Tenderloin Filet Mignon with Red Wine Garlic Sauce, Yukon Gold Potato Puree, and Garden Vegetables 
The wines ...

 Massolino Serralunga d'Alba Barolo 2008

This is a Nebbiolo varietal based red. Much lighter than I expected - slightly astringent. 

Light brick garnet colored, medium-light bodied, aromas and flavors of  slightly tart cherry, strawberry, herbs, tobacco, clove spice, rose petals with hints of tar with soft, medium tannins on the moderate finish.

RM 87 points. 








 

Keenan Spring Mountain Merlot 2012

We're big fans of Keenan Spring Mountain Bordeaux varietals. We visited the winery during our Napa Valley Wine Experience 2007.

Nice approachable easy drinking red, even in its youth - could've passed for a Cabernet, perfect for the occasion, cuisine and a reasonable value, even for Las Vegas. 

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, floral aromas, ripe black raspberry and black cherry fruits, hints of mocha, coffee, bell pepper, oak and smoke with a firm Cab like tannin finish.

72% estate grown and 28% Carneros fruit.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2057406&

Beaulieau Vineyards Napa Valley Tapestry Reserve 2011

This is a meritage, meaning it is a Bordeaux Blend - Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and some Petit Verdot and Malbec. Another approachable easy drinking red ideal for this setting and cuisine.

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, black berry core with tones of cassis, graphite and clove spice and a hint of cedar on the moderate finish.

RM 89 points. 







Monday, February 15, 2016

Valentine's Day Dinner and Fantesca Chardonnay

Valentine's Day Dinner and Fantesca Chardonnay

For a gala Valentine's Evening Dinner we dined at trendy, cozy, quaint Chez Joel on Taylor Street in Chicago. From their price fixe holiday dinner we dined on lobster bisque, New York Strip Steak, Canard Confit, Scallops and for dessert, Mousse au Chocolate, Creme Brulee and a medley of sorbets - chocolate, raspberry and mango.

From home, I brought this BYOB special Chardonnay from Fantesca - the first and perhaps still only Heidi Barrett crafted Chardonnay. The Fantesca branding is theme was ideal for the Valentine's Day occasion.

Fantesca Vineyards and Winery Sonoma County Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2008

I've written often in these pages about Fantesca wines and visiting their spectacular Spring Mountain Estate, winery and vineyards. We visited there with Bill and Beth and tasted and sourced this wine upon release. 


Bill brought this to our dinner a few weeks ago from his cellar. His notes from Cellartracker - "Medium straw in color. A bit of perfume on the nose. Pear, peach, lemon zest and just a hint of buttery oak on the palate. When I selected this from the cellar to accompany friend Linda's broiled salmon with dill I was pleasantly surprised to find there was still plenty of freshness left. I don't think this will get any better but it is awfully good right now."

WCC - 90 points. 

The fruit was a bit more subdued than earlier tastings in 2010 and 2012 but this is still very tasty. Butter colored, light-medium bodied, nicely integrated, smooth, crisp and clean, flavors of tropical fruits, ripe melon, hints of lychee and under current of subtle citrus with a pleasant lingering finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=872831


 Château Haut-Pontet St Emilion Grand Cru 2010

From the wine list we selected this St Emilion Grand Cru. This is the second wine from Chateau La Confession.

This was a perfect complement to my duck confit and the others' NY Strip Steaks.

Predominately Merlot fruit with but a touch of Cabernet Franc (5%) to firm up the structure and add depth and some dimension to the perfumed bouquet.

This is a nicely balanced well-made St. Émilion Grand Cru at a high QPR - Quality to Price Ratio.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, nicely balanced and textured, bright elegant fruit filled blackcurrants, blackberries and plum fruits with notes spice, hints of tobacco leaf, floral, earth and anise with round supple nicely integrated soft tannins.



RM 90 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1892649

 



Sunday, February 14, 2016

Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz at 10

Flinders Run Southern Flinders Ranges Shiraz 2006


Valentine's Day eve dinner - perfect wine with comfort food for relaxed family dinner with kids/grandkids joining. Pulled one of our favorites to accompany the lasagna main course. It also went just as well with the chocolates!

As written numerous times in the past, we love this wine and consider it a benchmark representation of Southern Australian Shiraz at its very best, and at a pricepoint between $25-30 it offers a relative great QPR (Quality to Price ratio). I wish I could find more of it. Not sure what happened to Flinders Run. It appeared on the market selectively and we haven't see it since. We bought all we could find on the market and are still being rewarded for our investment.

This has been a consistent overall hit of many standalone and comparison tastings of varied big reds. Consistent with earlier notes, the 2006 Flinders is still holding its own and showing well at ten years of age. Dark inky purple, full bodied, powerfully scented bouquet of dark berries, smoky minerals and fresh flowers bursting with flavors of thick chewy black raspberry, blueberry and cassis with layers of nut, vanilla and hints of mocha flavors on a tongue coating lingering finish. As much as we like this wine, the 2005 may be even better.

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=579974

Wednesday, February 10, 2016

Moe's Cuyahoga Falls Features Pride Mountain Merlot


Moe's Cuyahoga Falls Features Pride Mountain Merlot

Pride Mountain Vineyards Merlot 2012

For a casual business dinner, we dined at Moe's Restaurant in Cuyahoga Falls, OH. One side is a quaint tavern setting, adjacent is a trendy white linen tablecloth dining setting, with a shared Monthly Featured Dinner menu.

A short, basic, carefully selected wine list of fifty selections offers a range of price points and wine styles to complement their featured menu. A basic selection of a dozen WBTG - Wines By The Glass, allows for each diner in a group to select an appropriate wine with each dish.

Two of us ordered the Braised Short Ribs with Chipotle orange bbq, cheddar polenta and snap peas, which was delicious, and was much better than it sounds. Our other diners ordered the NY Strip Steak and the Grilled Salmon entrees. All our dinners were excellent.

For the second time this week, the wine list offered one of the few wines that straddle the summit county line between Napa and Sonoma Counties, high atop the Mayacamas Mountain range that separates the two valleys, Napa to the east and Sonoma to the west.

Pride Mountain Vineyards, originally named 'Summit Ranch', befitting its location , is a 235-acre estate with eighty acres of vineyards. Beside the winery building, the crush pad features a brick inlay that marks the Napa/Sonoma County line.

We've collected this wine since the early 90's and still hold in our cellar the 1997 vintage which we tasted and acquired during our Estate visit back in 1999. The 1997 vintage was the first year estate production occurred in the new modern winery built by the Pride family.

Even in its youth, this young wine provides early gratification with very tasty, pleasant drinking. It presents itself like a full bore Napa Cab, but is smooth, balanced and approachable, akin the character of a softer smoother Merlot.


This was bright garnet colored, medium full bodied, nicely balanced full forward black raspberry, black cherry fruits accented by hints of mocha, cedar, spicy oak with full, round smooth supple tannins on a harmonious finish.

RM 91 points.

The 2012 Merlot is composed of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1862139

http://www.pridewines.com/

http://www.moesrestaurant.com/

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Rosewood Grill and UNITY Red Blend

Rosewood Grill and UNITY Red Blend

For a business dinner with colleagues on the road, we dined at Rosewood Grill in Hudson, OH. With our grilled beef steak entrees we ordered Fisher Vineyards 'UNITY' Napa/Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon from their Wine Spectator Award winning wine list.

The Fisher Family have been growing and producing wines in both Napa Valley and Sonoma County since 1973.

UNITY is the brand associated with the second generation of the Fisher Family working together - Fisher founders Fred and Juelle Fisher, and the second generation that includes three siblings Whitney, Robert and Cameron.

The first generation Fisher Vineyards embodies single vineyard sourced wines, made unique by their particular, singular environmental conditions including soil and climate - elements when combined known as terrior.

In contrast, UNITY wines are produced from fruit chosen from multiple sites, estates or appellations, blended together in a tapestry where hopefully the whole is greater than the sum of the parts.

This 2013 UNITY Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of fruit sourced 75% from Napa Valley and 25% from Sonoma County from sites in Calistoga, Northern Napa Valley Floor, the Mayacamas Mountains, Eastern Sonoma County, Napa Valley Atlas Peak, and the Vacas Mountains of Eastern Napa.

They blend consists of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Malbec, 7% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petite Verdot.

It appears the complexity of the blend of this wine will require more aging time to come together. At this early stage it is still disjointed and awkward with some funky non-fruit musty wet wood barnyard tones punctuated by notes of creosote and hints of cedar and earthy leather offsetting the fruit flavors, before starting to burn off after about an hour to reveal black berry fruits and anise - too young or too little decanting preparation time in a restaurant dinner setting.

RM 86 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2029815

http://www.fishervineyards.com/unitywine/

http://rosewoodgrill.com/hudson/Default.aspx

Thursday, February 4, 2016

Indigo Springfield offers wonderful fine wine-dine experience

Indigo Springfield offers wonderful wine-dine experience

St Clement Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon BTG complements NY Strip Steak Entree Feature

Visiting Springfield, IL, the options for a wine-dine experience are limited. In fact I consider Indigo the only serious wine-dining experience option - one that offers a selection of fine wines to complement the menu, including their limited but carefully selected list of WBTG - Wine-By-The-Glass offers. On previous trips, when I hosted some special dinners there, they have graciously accommodated my BYOB arrangements.

Tonight, my colleague and I both selected the NY Strip steak, and the knowledgeable waitstaff didn't have to ask what I meant when I ordered it 'Pittsburg' style.

The default entree selection came with au-gratin potatoes, grilled vegetables and a mixed green salad - perfect!

To top it off, they offered several wines by the glass including this selection. Since, my dining partner was not a wine aficionado, WBTG was the appropriate approach and this selection made for a perfect dining outing.

The winelist was up to date and complete, including the recently acquired special limited selection of Sea Smoke Pinot Noir.

The Indigo gallery of dog paintings makes for a unique fun outing - three, four, six dogs ... 



Indigo met all expectations this evening, wonderful service - knowledgeable, attentive, pleasant, professional - a great selection of food and wine, well prepared, tasty, at reasonable value. This trendy, stylish, comfortable setting continues to be my obvious regular choice when I am in the area.

St Clement Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 

We hold several vintages of St Clement' premium Oroppas Napa Cabernet, but are not followers of the standard label. This is not an 'Estate' label, wherein all the grapes would need be to grown in producer owned vineyards on the property.

In a good year, wines such as this sourced from multiple sites from multiple growers can be exceptional, as the saying goes, 'all boats rise with the tide'. In lesser years, they can be mediocre, accordingly. This year proved to be a good one for St Clement. I can't wait to try their 2013!   

This 2012 St. Clement Cabernet is a classic example of Napa Valley, combining valley floor terroir and mountain fruit, sourced from several appellations across Napa Valley, including vineyards in Rutherford, St. Helena, Mt. Veeder, Coombsville and Diamond Mountain.

This Napa Cabernet seemed the best wine for our dinner selection and it turned out to be a perfect choice. This wine exceeded my expectations and proved to be a great tasty, pleasant, sophisticated drinking wine, well suited to the meal, offered by the glass, at a reasonable price.  

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, a symphony of nicely balanced, smooth, polished, almost elegant, well integrated flavors of  blackberry, black raspberry, currant and spicy oak flavors with silky round tannins on a smooth lingering finish.

RM 92 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1998865

http://www.stclement.com/

http://www.indigocuisine.com/ 

 

Sunday, January 31, 2016

Fantesca Chardonnay Dunham Cellars Robert Craig Howell Cabernets with Steak Salmon Dinner

Fantesca Chardonnay, Dunham Cellars, Robert Craig Howell Mountain and Moffett Reserve Cabernets with Steak and Salmon Dinner

For a Beef Steak and Atlantic Salmon dinner we opened Fantesca Chardonnay, Dunham Cellars and Robert Craig Cabernets. Linda prepared grilled New York strip steaks and Atlantic Salmon filets with a medley of roasted vegetables - brussel sprouts, carrots, asparagus and russet potatoes. Beth prepared a Ceasar Salad and Gloria brought fresh berries to accompany the course selection of artisan cheeses.

The starter course included shrimp cocktail and a cheese selection - Bellavitano, Aged White Cheddar, Aged Blue, Creamy Goat cheese infused with berries, and fresh mixed berries.

For the opening wine we served John Anthony Napa Valley Carneros Sauvignon Blanc 2013.

With the main dinner courses we had Fantesca Sonoma Chardonnay 2008, provided by Bill, and Dunham Cellars Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 and 1998. 

The dessert course featured Linda's decadent chocolate mousse, home-made profiteroles and fresh berries. Bill served Robert Craig Napa Valley Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. To follow, I pulled from the cellar a Moffett Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006.

John Anthony Napa Valley Carneros Sauvignon Blanc 2013

An up and coming producer in Napa Valley, John Anthony Truchard comes from a family with a long history in wine production going back several generations. Today, he and his wife Michelle produce a line of Cabernet, Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc from fruits grown in select leased small vineyard sites from the Oak Knoll District, Carneros and Coombsville across Napa Valley. They operate the Day/Night wine tasting lounge in downtown Napa to showcase their wines.

Back in 1890, John's great Grandfather Jean-Marie Truchard and his family arrived from Leon, France at Ellis Island. Over the ensuing generations, the family settled in Northern California working the land and producing wines.

John Anthony began selling wine commercially for the first time in 2006. The John Anthony Tasting Lounge is opened in Downtown Napa in 2010.

The inaugural release of this label appeared in 2008 and received a 93 point and best value rating from Wine Spectator. This 2013 John Anthony Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from vineyards they planted and farm in Napa Valley. 

Butter/straw colored, light bodied, crisp clean nice balance of fruits and acidity - aromas and flavors of ripe green apples, ripe melon and hints of zesty citrus.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1788034

http://www.johnanthonyvineyards.com

Fantesca Vineyards and Winery Sonoma County Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2008

I've written often in these pages about Fantesca wines and visiting their spectacular Spring Mountain Estate, winery and vineyards. We visited there with Bill and Beth and tasted and sourced this wine upon release. 

Bill brought this from his cellar. His notes from Cellartracker - "Medium straw in color. A bit of perfume on the nose. Pear, peach, lemon zest and just a hint of buttery oak on the palate. When I selected this from the cellar to accompany friend Linda's broiled salmon with dill I was pleasantly surprised to find there was still plenty of freshness left. I don't think this will get any better but it is awfully good right now."

WCC - 90 points. 

The fruit was a bit more subdued than earlier tastings in 2010 and 2012 but this is still very tasty. Butter colored, light-medium bodied, nicely integrated, smooth, crisp and clean, flavors of tropical fruits, ripe melon, hints of lychee and under current of subtle citrus with a pleasant lingering finish.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=872831

 Dunham Cellars Columbia Valley Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 and 1998 


This is an example of the perils of having a rather extensive wine cellar. Since we first discovered Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon with this 1997 vintage, we have collected a nine year vertical of this wine. With such a selection, one tends to wait until you can open multiple bottles from multiple vintages to be tasted in one sitting, which of course reduces the opportunities to taste these wines.

Tonight provided the opportunity to open a pair of vintages and I was prepared to open more, but we didn't have a large enough group to consume more wines.

Hence, tonight we opened our two oldest bottles of this collection as aging would dictate drinking the oldest first.

An interesting element of Dunham's branding is that each vintage/ label is adorned with the roman numeral denoting the sequence in the series of vintages for that label, this 1997 being III, their third such release in the line.

Previously, I opened their 2003 release (above), noted as 'IX', their ninth release. We've also tasted and noted their 2000 vintage or VI release. 

Dunham are a family-owned winery with several estate vineyards in prime locations around the Walla Walla Valley Appellation. Dunham grow and produce varietal based wines in Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Chardonnay as well as Trutina, their Bordeaux style blend. Dunham wines are sourced from some of the finest vineyards in Washington State Walla Walla, Yakima and Columbia Valleys.

When Dunham's first vintage, a 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon was released, it was deemed one of the finest wines made in Washington by Wine Enthusiast Magazine. Subsequent vintages and varietals have consistently earned high marks with both consumers and trade. 

Proprietor Eric Dunham is winemaker and also an artist who creates original artwork that is featured in a series of 'Artist Series' labels for Dunham Cellars vineyard designated and special bottlings.

The 100% Cabernet Sauvignon fruit for this 1997 vintage wine was sourced from the Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, Portteus, and Bacchus Vineyards.

This was showing its age and is most likely past its prime, and as such, is entering the late stages of its drinking window.

Dark garnet colored with slight bricking on the edge, an ever so slight tinge of brown rust color starting to set in. This is medium bodied with bright tangy black cherry predominates followed by tones of black raspberry, smoke, tobacco leaf and eucalyptus with hints of cassis and creosote turning to tangy slightly astringent dark cherry, floral and cedar on the moderate tannin lingering finish.

The 1998 vintage is also 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, but this is sourced from Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge, Portteus, Konnawok, Bacchus, Williard, Wauluke, and Vanessa Vineyards.


Upon opening this started as musty, earthy and leathery, but over the course of an hour the tangy cherry fruits emerged and eventually converged to mirror the profile of the earlier '97. By the next day, the '98 was brighter and more lively than the '97 which was somewhat shrouded in the smokey cassis layer.

Time to drink ... RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=287264

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=4275

http://www.dunhamcellars.com/


Robert Craig Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 2006

This was ideal following the more subdued Dunham that lined up with the entree course. This aligned with and complimented well the dark chocolate mousse. I sense this is at the apex of its drinking window and while it won't likely improve with further aging, it has several years of life yet at this level.

Bill's tasting notes from Cellartracker - This long time favorite is hitting its stride but will continue to improve and has years of life left. Opaque, indigo in color. Rich, dark berry flavors on the palate, evolving into an earthy finish of slate, pencil shavings and dark chocolate. An amazing accompaniment to a dessert of chocolate mousse, raspberries and especially spectacular chocolate covered cherries.

WCC 92

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=735909

www.robertcraigwines.com


Moffett Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2006

This was an ideal follow on to the Robert Craig Howell Mountain having the same tasting profile but being lighter and less complex.

Except as noted, this was consistent with my earlier tasting notes from two previous tastings. 

This is dark garnet colored - medium-full bodied - polished and smooth with full flavors of blackberries, ripe plum and currants - with the fruit seeming to trend down somewhat from my recollection of earlier tastings, highlighted by a layer of mocha chocolate, anise, and tones of black tea with a touch of oak and spice - the wine shows great balance of toasted oak and acidity.

Tonight, that trending of the fruit becoming more subdued continued, but consistent in the other traits. There were not other indications of diminution from aging.

RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=661237

Saturday, January 30, 2016

UGC Bordeaux 2013 Release Tour Chicago 2016

UGC Bordeaux 2013 Release Tour Chicago 2016

The UGC Bordeaux' (Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB)) producers' annual North American tour descended on Chicago this week to showcase their 2013 vintage release. The UGC is an association of 133 grands crus producers from heralded Gironde estates. My blogpost from last year's tour event talked in more detail about the UGC and the Bordeaux classification.

Once again, the event is organized by Napa based Balzac Communications, under the direction of Founder Paul Walker and CEO/Principle Mike Wangbickler. About 450 members of the trade and media were treated to taste the latest vintage release from eighty-two producers that were scheduled to attend.

Then, about 250 attendees attended the evening session that is open to the general public, hosted and orchestrated by Doug Jeffirs and the wine team from Binny's Beverage Depot, the Chicagoland superstore.

As in recent years, the event is held in the magnificent ballroom (left) of the Drake Hotel on Chicago's North Michigan Avenue Magnificent Mile, overlooking the famous Lake Shore Drive curve and Oak Street Beach.

Its a wonderful event and we're grateful to the producers who participate in this ambitious and rigorous trip across North America.

This year the itinerary has been expanded to eight cities as new stops have been added for public events in collaboration with select merchants in Florida and Canada, such as the Binny's event here in Chicago.

Its a pleasure to meet the Chateau owners, winemakers, commercial and marketing representatives who attend from the Chateaus. I recognize and appreciate the huge investment and commitment of their time and effort to participate.

This year the weather in Chicago was unusually mild and warm, more than offset by the blizzard that hit the Northeast dumping two feet of snow on New York. Lucky for the tour the storm hit over the weekend reducing disruption, unlike the last two years when several producers faced flight delays and some cancellations.

Once again, the Pour Boys wine team participated to assist the attending Paul and Michael of the Balzac Communications Group team who manage the event - setting up, registering participants, and standing in for producers pouring their wines, hence the name Pour Boys, obtained in recent years when many of the producers were no-shows or late arrivals due to winter storms.

The Pour Boys are avid wine collectors, our wine dinner group that meet regularly for wine centered tastings and social events - shown left, Ernie, Dr Dan, with Paul W, Lyle, me and Bill, as the core group. Such an event is great fun, an escape and vast departure from our normal daily duties tending to corporate litigation, dentistry, high tech, and retirement, when not working these events.

Members of the trade may also recall us from last fall's Grands Crus Classes of St Emilion 2015 Chicago tasting.

Son Ryan and I both attended with special interest this year since 2013 was the birth year of his son Richard Reid, as well as my other grandson John Richard (Richie). So, we're looking to invest in a horizontal collection of 2013 wines to commemorate their birth year as is our practice. Indeed, my collection of my kids' birth year wines was the basis for my cellar being featured in the Collector section of Wine Spectator Magazine back in June of 2001.

The next generation represented by Jared Gelband (shown with me, left), Sommellier at the Wine Bar in the Intercontinental Hotel Chicago, special friend of son-in-law Johnnie and daughter Erin.

The 2013 Bordeaux vintage presented some challenges for the winemakers, starting off as one of the coldest and wet starts to a growing season in more than 40 years and a later than expected harvest. One silver lining to the intense cold faced early was that it may have helped hinder potential diseases in the vines. An impact of the difficult year were lower crop yields, which when managed properly can still result in some fine wines from Producers with terroir, care and attention to detail, and a bit of luck. Watch for lower volumes in the premium labels with more volume attributed to the lesser labels.

A benefit for consumers may be a moderation in prices if they properly reflect the challenging 'lesser' vintage. Looking back on some other similar years, perhaps 1991 and 1992 following the spectacular 1990, these releases provided some good values for more moderate priced drinking.

Most likely, these wines will be ones to provide earlier drinking gratification rather than be properly structured for long term aging. This provides collectors a possible chance to enjoy these off year wines while the greater vintages continue to mature.

Bordeaux along with the rest of France endured a cold February and March, and May was especially cold and wet. Things only got worse in June with an early storm as the cool wet weather continued. Finally warm days came in July with early heat spikes, but still excessive moisture persisted with another storm coming late in the month, perhaps the worst storm in a decade or more.

Finally things improved with warmer days and sunshine arriving in August and continued into September, only to be faced with another storm late in the month.

With the shorter season and less heat, along with lower yields, also look for lower and less developed tannins from the lesser ripe fruits, look for highlights of 2013 to be the white Bordeaux, especially the Sauternes and Barsac.

This was evident in the tasting as the Sauternes and Barsac appellation seemed to be the highlight (left) with all labels showing well. I personally especially liked the Latour Blanche which stood out with its apricot punctuated forward fruits.

The St Julien appellation stood out with highlights being Chateaus Talbot and Beyechevelle. It was a surprise to see David Launay, former winemaker for Gruaud Larose attending again this year, but this time representing Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse (and Chateau Meyney, not presented).

I thought the Pauillac standout was Pichon Baron. I sensed it would be when I opened the bottles earlier, in preparation for the opening of the event, when the room burst with aromatics of floral and berry fruits.

Chateau Clinet and Chateau Troplong Mondot were both notable from the right bank.


Canon-le-Gaffeliere was remarkably light, almost delicate, with a layer of sweetness ... ready for early drinking gratification, but not built for long term aging.

The always delightful, Bernard Olivier attended representing Pessac Leognan Domaine Chevallier, but the evangelism duties were attended to by son Hugo while Bernard tended to ambassadorial duties as presiding President of the UGC. I watch and enjoy observing this transition as I enjoy the experience with my own son Ryan in the progression of his wine appreciation and knowledge, as well as his own cellar collecting.

The 2013 vintage should provide some lower priced wines that will provide earlier near term drinking. 




The Chateau represented on this year's tour.


1 Château de Chantegrive Graves
2 Château Carbonnieux Pessac Léognan
3 Château Les Carmes Haut Brion Pessac Léognan
4 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac Léognan
5 Château de Fieuzal Pessac Léognan
6 Château de France Pessac Léognan
7 Chateau La Louviere Pessac Léognan
8 Château Latour Martillac Pessac Léognan
9 Château Malartic Lagravière Pessac Léognan
10 Château Olivier Pessac Léognan
11 Château Pape Clément Pessac Léognan
12 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac Léognan
13 Château Canon Saint Emilion Grand Cru
14 Château Canon La Gaffelière Saint Emilion Grand Cru
15 Château La Couspaude Saint Emilion Grand Cru
16 Château La Dominique Saint Emilion Grand Cru
17 Château Troplong Mondot Saint Emilion Grand Cru
18 Château Villemaurine Saint Emilion Grand Cru
19 Château Beauregard Pomerol
20 Château Le Bon Pasteur Pomerol
21 Château La Cabanne Pomerol
22 Château Clinet Pomerol
23 Château Gazin Pomerol
24 Château La Pointe Pomerol
25 Château Clarke Listrac Médoc
26 Château Chasse Spleen Moulis en Médoc
27 Château Maucaillou Moulis en Médoc
29 Château Beaumont Haut Médoc
30 Château de Camensac Haut Médoc
31 Château Cantemerle Haut Médoc
32 Château Citran Haut Médoc
33 Château Coufran Haut Médoc
34 Château La Lagune Haut Médoc
35 Château La Tour Carnet Haut Médoc
36 Château La Tour de By Médoc
37 Château Angludet Margaux
38 Château Brane Cantenac Margaux
39 Château Cantenac Brown Margaux
40 Château Dauzac Margaux
41 Château Giscours Margaux
42 Château Kirwan Margaux
43 Château Lascombes Margaux
44 Chateau Malescot St Exupery Margaux
45 Château Prieuré Lichine Margaux
46 Château Rauzan - Ségla Margaux
47 Château du Tertre Margaux
48 Château Beychevelle Saint Julien
49 Château Branaire Ducru Saint Julien
50 Château Gloria Saint Julien
51 Château Gruaud Larose Saint Julien
52 Château Lagrange Saint Julien
53 Château Langoa Barton Saint Julien
54 Château Léoville Barton Saint Julien
55 Château Léoville Poyferré Saint Julien
56 Château Saint Pierre Saint Julien
57 Château Talbot Saint Julien
58 Château d’Armailhac Pauillac
59 Château Clerc Milon Pauillac
60 Château Grand Puy Ducasse Pauillac
61 Château Grand Puy Lacoste Pauillac
62 Château Lynch Bages Pauillac
63 Château Lynch Moussas Pauillac
64 Château Pichon Baron Pauillac
65 Château Lafon - Rochet Saint Estèphe
66 Château Ormes De Pez Saint Estèphe
67 Château de Pez Saint Estèphe
68 Château Phélan Ségur Saint Estèphe
69 Château Coutet Barsac
70 Château Doisy Daëne Barsac
71 Château Bastor - Lamontagne Sauternes
72 Château de Fargues Sauternes
73 Château Guiraud Sauternes
74 Chateau Clos Haut Peyraguey Sauternes
75 Château Lafaurie  Peyraguey Sauternes
76 Château de Rayne Vigneau Sauternes
77 Château Suduiraut Sauternes
78 Château La Tour Blanche Sauternes