Saturday, February 9, 2013

Château Picque Caillou Pessac Leognan 2010

Château Picque Caillou, Pessac Leognan, Graves, Bordeaux 2010

We just attended the 2010 Bordeaux release tasting of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux  tasting in Chicago a short while back.One lesson learned was that the 2010 vintage, here-to-fore overshadowed by the legendary 2009's, is a high achiever, one to be taken seriously and provides some good notable wines, even from some of the lesser labels. The 2010 Bordeaux vintage was monumental with dry conditions, cool temperatures, and sunny days. It produced wines displaying a ripeness, freshness, and concentration found only in the finest vintages. As expected in top vintage years, the most famous estates produced memorable wines, but so did some lesser estates as well. 

Pessac Leognan is in the Appellation of Grave, a vast region, spanning over 50 kilometres directly south of the town of Bordeaux. Its name originates from the gravelly soils deposited there in the last ice age, which impart much of the character associated with their mineral whites and sophisticated reds. Grave is the only Bordeaux region that produces quality reds, whites as well as sweet desert wines. The region encompasses several smaller communes including Pessac Leognan, Sauternes and Barsac.


Chateau Picque Caillou was built in 1780 in what was then the countryside outside of Bordeaux. It is situated near the Rocade just a few hundred metres from legendary First Growth Chateau Haut Brion. Isabelle and Paulin Calvet took over the management of the estate prior to purchasing it in 1997. Having brought in superstar winemaker Denis Dubourdieu, Picque Caillou is now producing award winning wines that are are a worthwhile discovery. With the addition of winemaker Paulin Calvet, a former employee of negociant J-P. Moueix who learned from both Christian Moueix and the now-retired winemaker of Chateau Petrus, Jean-Claude Berrouet, they are now one of the emerging rising stars producing some of the best deals in the 2010 Bordeaux vintage. 

The 2010 Chateau Picque Caillou, is what one might call a diamond in the rough, a nice wine for the value conscious wine enthusiast.

This Pique Caillou is medium bodied, delicate, nicely balanced and polished. yet packing a backbone of moderate tannins - it presents expressive blackberry, a layer of spice and cassis with touch of smoke and well integrated soft oak. The tones of of blackberry are accented with hints of dark plum and a touch of cracked pepper before giving way to the lingering tannin finish. It provides for sophisticated yet pleasurable easy drinking at a modest price. The rather soft delicate nature may be a result of the blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot.

RM 89 points.  

This represents a good value high QPR (Quality to Price Ratio) wine, hard to find from Bordeaux at this price point of $25.   

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1166238 

http://www.picque-caillou.com

Friday, February 8, 2013

Matanzas Creek Sonoma Bennett Valley Jackson Park Merlot 2007

Matanzas Creek Winery Sonoma County Bennett Valley Jackson Park Vineyard Merlot 2007 

Matanzas Creek has been producing Merlot from their Bennet Valley vineyards up in Sonoma County for decades. With its close proximity to the Pacific Ocean, their Jackson Park vineyard is at the front line of the cooling effects of the Petaluma Wind Gap which brings marine winds and coastal fog into the valley. These conditions help develop the grapes' aromatic qualities, acidity and tannin structure. This signature Bennett Valley Merlot is sourced from the terraced vineyards of the 110 acre Jackson Park Ranch located 900 feet above the Bennett Valley floor.

Full bodied and dark garnet colored, this signature Merlot was initially harsh and almost unapproachable with tart black cherry, a funky leatheriness and hard tannins. It was more approachable the next day and even more-so becoming smoother and more polished a couple days later, revealing black berry, black currant, clove spice and a layer of anise with hint of tobacco leaf and subtle dark mocha. Firm dry tannins shape the lingering finish. This includes in the blend 14% Cabernet Sauvignon from Matanzas Creek's  mountain vineyards in Knights Valley which they contend add additional structure and a rich mouthfeel.


RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=968694

http://www.matanzascreek.com/


This wine is currently available at Chicagoland's Wine Discount Center for $23 representing a good QPR - Quality Price Ratio if one has the peace of mind to not reject it on initial opening and have patience to let it open and settle over a couple days.  

  

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

Del Dotto Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999

Much has been written here in this blog about our enjoyment of and support for Del Dotto Vineyards and their selection of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons. Indeed, we've been fans and collectors since their inaugural release in 1993 and hold a vertical collection dating back that far. We continue to be rewarded for our patience in holding these wines and enjoying their longevity. They're safely in their prime drinking window and promise several more years of fine drinking to come. Tonight was typical as we chose their 1999 vintage for a special dinner welcoming a new colleague with our leadership at Angelis' Italian, our favorite local Italian bistro in Naperville.

Consistent with earlier tasting notes - the 1999 Del Dotto Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is dark ruby colored, full bodied, complex but nicely balanced with intense dark cherry, black currant and blackberry fruits, a spicy tangy oak layer on a lingering finish of tight structured tannins. This was a perfect complement to Angelis' pasta with peas and ground Italian sausage in a vodka cream sauce. 

RM 92 points. 

Previous tasting journal entries for this wine -  Dec 25, 2003, April 2, 2003, Dec 25, 2002, Aug 24, 2002, May 30, 2008,  October 19, 2012  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=616988

http://www.deldottovineyards.com/ 

Monday, February 4, 2013

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

Robert Craig Affinity Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1997


Much has been written here in this blog about our enjoyment of and support for Robert Craig Vineyards and his family of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons. Indeed, we've been fans and collectors since his inaugural release in 1993 and still hold a vertical collection dating back that far. We continue to be rewarded for our patience in holding these wines and enjoying their longevity. They're safely in their prime drinking window and promise several more years of fine drinking to come. Tonight was typical as we chose their 1997 vintage for a special dinner welcoming a new colleague and trying out a new local eatery, Cuisine de Saigon - an Asian French fusion restaurant in Naperville. They offer a nice selection of entrees featuring all fresh and authentic preparations at great prices for fantastic value and a economical BYOB policy. This wine was a perfect complement to their soy rib-eye steak entree.

My Winesite features six tasting notes of previous bottles of this wine from the case we bought at the winery in Napa Valley a dozen years ago. This bottle continues to be expressive, still revealing itself and its full potential with lingering fruit and staying power. - rich, medium full bodied, dark garnet colored - fruit filled with black currant, black berry, raspberry, cassis and earthy leather reminiscent of a left bank Bordeaux with silky tannins on the finish. (82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc).

The 1997 vintage was praised at the time while the panned follow-on 1998 vintage has been more enjoyable over the last several years. Finally the '97 is awakening and revealing itself, as we're getting down to the last few bottles of a case we purchased long ago. It will be fun to see how this continues to evolve, and how long it lasts in its glory.


RM 92 points.




This is Robert Craig's Cabernet Saivignon Blend from his three mountains (Mt Veeder, Howell Mountain and Spring Mountain) and a (Napa) Valley collection. Known for its good value and early drinking ability, this fifteen year old is holding up well.
 
https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=29715

From our Robert Craig vertical collection that is highlighted regularly in this blog. Click on the Robert Craig link for more features.



Previous tasting journal entries for this wine are: July 26, 2000, June 23, 2000, April 28, 2007 , December 25, 2007, April 1, 2009, February 21, 2012, August 29, 2012.

http://www.robertcraigwine.com/ 

Saturday, January 26, 2013

Soaring Red Flight - Silverado Solo - Darioush - Château Faugères

Red Flight Soars High - Silverado Solo, Darioush, Château Faugères

Readers of this blog see many instances of our wine encounters with enticing wines, so its significant when wine buddy Bill says we may have outdone ourselves - tonight's wine dinner with Bill and Beth C was extraordinary in the pairings of great wines and food.Our rib-eye roast dinner wine flight served up three blockbuster reds that showcased different but complementary styles.

The evening featured Château Faugères St Emilion Grand Cru, Darioush Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Silverado Vineyards SOLO Napa Valley Cabernet Sauivignon over dinner. A starter course of lobster medallions was highlighted by Te Kairanga Casarina  Martinborough New Zealand Reserve Chardonnay. The evening finished with Warre's Quinta da Cavadhina Vintage Porto with the desert course.


The evening started with artisan cheeses (shown above with wine flight) - Stilton with berrys, white cheddar and danish blue, served with fresh berries and mixed nuts. Broiled lobster medallions with drawn butter followed.

The dinner featured a rib-eye roast served with grilled mushrooms, twice baked potatoes and fresh garden salad.

Desert featured Linda's baked apple and berry pie with apples, blueberrys and strawberries served alongside artisan hand-made chocolate truffles from The Chocolate Garden, a holiday gift from colleague Lora J.


Château Faugères St Emilion Grand Cru 1998

Following our attendance at the UGCB grand tasting grand tasting of the 2010 vintage release in Chicago this week, I was compelled to open with a vintage Bordeaux selection.

Decanted an hour before drinking, medium to full bodied, inky purple color, subdued nose but complex medley of flavors evolved throughout the evening - predominate black fruits, layer of graphite with tones of cedar, mushroom and leather with hints of anise and mocha. After ninety minutes a slightly funky barnyard tone set in but eventually burned off leaving a pleasant, complex but polished tone with nicely integrated firm tannins on the moderate finish.  

RM 88 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=5046

http://www.chateau-faugeres.com/

 Darioush Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2001

 This was a fitting selection for this evening. We first were introduced to this wine by Bill and Beth when we were invited by them to a wine dinner at their Cress Creek Country Club in the late nineties.

We visited the winery during our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2003. Their fabulous winery and tasting facility on Silverado Trail in southern Napa Valley was not yet open but was well under construction at that timeTonight's wine selection was from the case we purchased during that visit.  

We then attended the gala Darioush - Domaine de Chevalier Gala Wine Dinner. This was a fabulous private dinner hosted by Darius & Shaptar Kaledi of Darioush Winery and Bernard Laborie of Domaine de Chevalier at Everest restaurant in Chicago in the summer of 2004. 

I mention this since we just saw Bernard at the UGCB grand tasting of the 2010 Bordeaux release in Chicago this week and we reminisced about that evening. See my UGCB blogpost of that evening.

This remains a blockbuster wine, living up to the tone set by the large oversize, almost magnum size bottle - dark inky color, full bodied, complex but smooth and polished, full forward black berry and currant fruits with a layer of spicy cinnamon oak with tones of black tea, anise, tobacco leaf and dark chocolate - well balanced and polished with nicely integrated silky smooth tannins on the lingering finish.

Blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot

RM 92 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=462550   

http://www.darioush.com/
 


Silverado Vineyards SOLO Napa Valley Cabernet Sauivignon 2006


Bill brought this cellar selection from home which set the stage with this Stag's Leap District Napa Cab for me to select the 'neighboring' Darioush Cabernet. Its hard to imagine the Darioush being upstaged but this flagship of the Silverado family is a huge blockbuster wine. It was a treat to experience this wine for the first time.

Dark inky purple, huge, powerful, complex forward black berry fruits accented by spicy toasty oak, leather and pencil lead on a tight firm lingering tannin finish.

 I can't wait to try this again and can imagine this wine after five or even ten years being more smooth and polished but still retaining that firm powerful core and long tannin finish.

This was a great transition progression, building 'up' from the Faugueres and then the Darioush. This wine begged for hearty cheese, dark chocolate, or charbroiled beefsteak.

RM 93 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=779038

http://www.silveradovineyards.com/

Te Kairanga Casarina  Martinborough New Zealand Reserve Chardonnay 2005

Regrettably, this was the last bottle of this partial case I bought a while back.

Light golden honey coloured wine - medium-light bodied. Winemaker notes say it well - Hints of white peach, citrus and grilled hazelnuts with attractive vanilla oak characters. Nice easy drinking wine - tight acidity and good length.to add a bit more body, richness  Since the earlier tastings, I sense this added a bit more body and complexity and actually possessed somewhat of a buttery oakiness resembling a Sonoma County style. Very nice and perfect complement to the lobster medallions and salad.


RM 89 points.


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=642640

https://www.tkwine.co.nz/


Warre's Quinta da Cavadhina Vintage Porto 1995


Dark coffee color - full bodied, a bit of an edge of sweet black fruits, layer of smokey creosote with hint of cedar and cassis and black cherry on the finish.

RM 89 points. 

This was one of WINE SPECTATOR’S Top 10 Dessert Wines for 1998

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3721  

http://www.warre.com/section.php?id=777

More to follow ... 

Wine flight - baked apple berry crisp with chocolate truffles

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Chicago

Bordeaux Producers 2010 Release Tasting Chicago
Olivier Bernard -
Domaine Chevalier

The Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, currently on their United States Tour, came to Chicago this week. We attended their 2010 vintage release tasting held at the Drake Hotel in the grand ballroom. The UGCB, established in 1973, representing over 130 producers, developed and conducts wine-tasting programmes in France and abroad to educate about and promote the reputation and image of the Grands Crus of Bordeaux. This provides an special opportunity to meet the people involved in producing and/or promoting some of our favorite wines. For me, this was extra special to share my passion and this experience with son Ryan, who is developing a keen interest and discriminating palet for fine wine. For those that traveled so far to share with us their artwork, we say Merci et Bienvenue.

From January 18-26 the tour visits San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, New York and Washington in the US, and then on to Toronto and Montreal in Canada.

About 125 different producers served their wine to the trade during the day and then to a public tasting in the evening event sponsored by Binny's Beverage Depot, the leading wine merchant with over twenty-five stores throughout Chicagoland. Similar tastings were held in San Francisco, hosted by K&L Wines, in LA by Wally's, New York by Zachy's and in Washington hosted by Pearsons.

Our wine group consisted of Dr Dan, Ernie S., Lyle F, #1 son Ryan, Mike S., Mark C and myself. As has become our custom with the Grand Tour and other such gala tasting events, I picked the top wines I wanted to taste ahead of time and then we focused on those twenty-five or so selected wines during the evening. In truth, the evening would have been a success and I would have been happy to taste about ten select targeted wines.


Lyle, Dan with David Launay
Gruaud Larose Winemaker
For Dan, Ernie and me, the targeted twenty wines represent several of our favorite wines that we hold in our cellars that we collect and hence are most likely to purchase in this vintage release. They also represent wines we know well so that we can appreciate the new release against a historical understanding of the wines going back in some cases forty years to the 1970 vintage release or even earlier.

For Ryan, and his friends Mark and Mike, this gathering of a hundred different producers showing one horizontal release, was an excellent opportunity to experience and learn the styles and nuances of terrior of several different Bordeaux appellations and numerous leading producers from across the Bordeaux region.


Indeed, thirteen different appellations were represented with more than a dozen different producers representing Margaux, St Emilion and  Pessac-Leognan. There were at least ten producers from our favorites, St Julien and Pauillac, and another ten from Sauterne & Barsac. Any one of these would represent a horizontal tasting treat worthy of an evening in their own right.

David Launay - Gruaud
Larose Winemaker
The target wines mentioned above are represented by a half dozen different vintages in our cellars in many cases, and by more than a dozen different releases for several, and in some cases, as many as two dozen vintages. One such wine that we hold in abundance is Gruaud Larose which we still hold going back to the 1978 vintage including the years 1981, '82, '83, '85, '86, '88 through '1990 and into the nineties and the new millennium.We also still hold large format bottles of Gruaud Larose 1985 and 1990 for son's Sean and Alec's birthyears. (More on that below). So it was an honor and great fun to meet their winemaker David Launey and taste the new release in his presence. Being so familiar with this wine, we instantly recognized and commented on the change in style, to a vibrant, expressive and especially approachable wine at this young age. Much to the delight of the winemaker, David explained how they changed their technique in recent years to focus on the fruit resulting in a more approachable wine when young, for earlier drinking gratification.

A highlight of the evening was to see Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier and current President of the UGCB.   We've presented his wine at several of our wine group's gatherings including the grand tasting last summer, so we're all familiar with this wineWe were fortunate and honored to attend the gala Darioush - Domaine de Chevalier Gala Wine Dinner, a fabulous private dinner hosted by Olivier Berrnard and Darius & Shaptar Kaledi of Darioush Winery at Everest Restaurant in Chicago in the summer of 2004. It was fun to reminisce with him about that evening with him.  

Olivier Bernard with Ernie, Dan
and Ryan

Olivier shared a fascinating exposition  about the significant investment a producer makes in quality corks, and on the importance of  properly determining the 'top' and 'bottom' of the cork, thereby inserting the grain of the cork correctly so the proper end is 'wet', exposed to the wine, and the appropriate opposing end is left 'dry', exposed to the air. 

Another highlight was to taste Chateau Figeac St Emilion with son Ryan. This was one of his signature wines that we collected for his birthyear, 1982, which we've tasted together on many occasions including his wedding banquet. .We still hold this selection including large format bottles which we continue to enjoy on special occasions. Our large bottle collection of our kid's birthyear wines was featured in the Collecting section of Wine Spectator Magazine back in June, 2001. 

Ryan with Emeline Borie
of Grand Puy Lacoste
It was great fun and an honor to meet several other winemakers and executives of many of our favorite wines, including Nicolas Santier of Chateau Pichon Baron to get his perspective on the 1985 vintage large format Imperial we're still holding in our cellar to commemorate son Sean's birthyear. We had similar discussions about our cellar holdings dating back to the 80's with Gabriel Vialard Technical Director, Winemaker at Chateau Haut Bailly, Veronique Dausse, Managing Director Chateau Phelan Segur, Emeline Borie, who shares ownership and management duties at Grand Puy Lacoste with her father François-Xavier Borie co-owner and winemaker, and Figeac.

It was fun to see a strong showing from Chateau Coutet. Ernie got to share our recent tasting experience when he brought a 1959 vintage bottle to our autumn tasting dinner at Dr Dan's.  

Canon-Le-Gaffeliere
St Emilion Grand Cru
Perennial favorite wines that were excellent, showing exceedingly well and met or exceeded already high expectations were Pichon Lalande and Pichon Baron, from Pauillac, Gruaud Larose from St Julien, and Figeac from St Emilion. The surprise new discovery of the evening was Chateau Clinet from Pomerol. Special honorable mention also goes out to Canon-Le-Gaffeliere St Emilion Grand Cru. Ernie and Dan both also liked and purchased the Lynch Bages Pauillac.

Highlighted wines were standouts with exceptional wines of the evening shown with ..

Select tasting notes and observations to come. Meanwhile ... 

The wines we tasted are listed below with highlights in bold:

Margaux
Ernie & Dan with Lea Zuger of
Malescot St Exupery












Pauillac
Ryan with Veronique Dausse,
Managing Director, 
Chateau Phelan Segur












Pessac-Léognan
Gabriel Vialard Technical Director,
Winemaker, Chateau Haut Bailly












Pomerol

Chateau Clinet -
Moniqe Montepini
discovery of the evening!















Saint Estephe

Rick with Nicolas Santier
of Chateau Pichon Baron













Saint Julien
Saint-Émilion Grand Cru
Chateau Giuraud














Sauternes et Barsac

No shows? Two producers we specifically targeted and sought out that either were not in attendance or we did not find them - Chateau La Conseillante Pomerol and Chateau Larmande St Emilion. I have fond vivid memories of a case of Chateau La Conseillante 1983 that we enjoyed in the 1980's (before the internet and keeping blog posts or on-line tasting notes). We now realize we drank it too soon, or at the very least, should have saved a couple bottles to enjoy much later in the drinking window. I also remember first trying Chateau Larmande from that era as well. We are currently enjoying the 2005 vintage immensely which is drinking very nicely already. I'll strive to restrain myself and keep a few of these bottles for more mature drinking as we watch this wine age.   
  
Rick & Binny's Doug Jeffirs













Rick & Binny's Bill  Newton












More to come ...

Saturday, January 19, 2013

Mt Veeder Winery Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

Mt Veeder Winery Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

I mention often here in my blog our many trips to Napa Valley and our practice, learned and refined after many years, of focusing on but one Appellation per trip. This not only allows for simplified and effiicient travel logistics moving from site to site, but allows immersive focus on the nuances of the terrior, or sense of place that represents a particular AVA (American Viticulture Area - aka Appellation.). AVA's are designated grape-growing areas distinguishable by their common geography and micro-climate such that they are reflected in the wines produced from there. Such boundaries are defined by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the US Department of the Treasury.

AVA's are common in Europe such as the Italian Indicazione Geografica Tipica (DOC or DOCG) or the French AOC, Appellation Original Controllee system from Bordeaux. Those define characteristics of wine from a particular area with rigorous rules about what grapes can be grown and how they are tended and harvested. Unlike most European wine appellations of origin, an American AVA specifies only a geographical location from which at least 85% of the grapes used to make the wine must have originated from there to be designated or labeled as a AVA wine. Beyond labeling a wine from Napa Valley, then Mt Veeder or Oakville, the next level of granularity of labeling might be a specific vineyard designated wine such as the Hess Collection Allomi Vineyard designated Cabernet Sauvignon featured in my most recent blogpost. Most folks don't realize there are sixteen such appellations in Napa Valley and over fifty in Bordeaux!


Initial trips to any wine region should strive for exposure to the array of different styles that the area has to offer, but after basic understanding and appreciation of the range on offer, this approach of focusing provides for greater appreciation and minimum hassle. This approach served us well as we visited and traversed Napa's various appellations, especially those in the mountains - Howell Mountain, Atlas Peak, Diamond Mountain, and Spring Mountain District. But this approach was challenged on our last Appellation specific trip to Napa Valley Mt Veeder due its sheer size, the vastness of its geographic spread, and the ruggedness of the terrain.


As we traversed the length and elevations of Mt Veeder we came across several vineyards of Mt Veeder Winery, the producer whose namesake is this place. From their original Winery Ranch to the south that goes back over a hundred years, to the North Ranch high up the mountain, we saw Mount Veeder vineyards spread across the mountain. Mount Veeder vineyards represented not only the the ruggedness of the terrain carved out of terraces up against the hillside, but also the spectacle of the mountaintops with views to the valley floor far below and the distant vistas stretching to San Pablo Bay and San Francisco far to the south..


Mt Veeder's vineyards stretch from elevations of  1000 up to 1,600 feet high above the Napa Valley floor and represent diversity of subtly different micro-climates or growing conditions. Up above the fog bank that rolls in from nearby San Pablo Bay to the south, the mountain slopes are exposed to sun from early morning, yet they're protected from the afternoon heat by the surrounding mountains. The mountain fruit ripens slowly allowing it to hang on the vines longer in a longer growing season that lasts into late autumn, often into November.

The thin, rocky soils and the rugged mountain terrain means the scarce water drains quickly through the volcanic mountain soil. The slow growing vines produce small clusters of intensely-concentrated berries, giving extremely low yields—as little as half that of vineyards on the Napa Valley floor, but offset by the longer growing season.

Mt Veeder (Winery) grows all five of the Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec and produces Bordeaux style wines blended from them, but with a California Napa Valley flair characteristic of their intense mountain grown fruit. We've enjoyed this label since the early nineties.

I've heard legendary winemaker Robert Craig, who spent his early years on Mt Veeder, who produces designated Cabernet Sauvignons sourced from mountain vineyards on Mt Veeder as well as the other mountains from the corners of Napa Valley, as well as the valley floor, say his favorite is Robert Craig Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon, for its intense flavors and firm tannins and backbone.

Hence, its noteworthy to pay attention to the producer whose name is synonymous with this classic characterization of Napa Valley's oldest and  most vast growing area. 


 Mt Veeder Winery Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

This is a complex wine that changed its focus and revealed itself differently from initial opening to an hour later and moreso the next day. Its bold but lacks smoothness or polish. Deep, dark inky purple and garnet colored, medium-full bodied. An initial layer of intense slightly tart black cherry and ripe black currant fruits give way to full forward flavors of ripe plum with hints of caramel and with tones of anise and mocha. The lingering finish boasts vibrant complex layers of sweet oak, and tobacco with a touch of black olive on a firm tannin backbone core. 

This wine represents good value widely available on sale below $30.

RM 90 points.

Blend: 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, and 1% Malbec


Alcohol by volume: 14.0%


https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1479432

http://www.mtveeder.com/

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Hess Collection Napa Valley Allomi Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2010


Hess Collection Napa Valley Allomi Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

We tasted this wine by the glass over lunch at Sweetwater Tavern and Grille on North Michigan Avenue in Chicago. This smooth approachable easy drinking Cabernet Sauvignon was a nice compliment to the Rigatoni Pasta with italian sausage, tomatoes, basil, peas, goat cheese, tomato cream sauce, where normally a more moderate varietal wine would be more applicable, due to its softer more approachable style, over a cabernet.

Previously, this wine was recommended by colleague Matt M when traveling and dining together on a recent trip.

We first visited the Hess winery with its art museum exhibits back during our Napa Wine Experiences in the late eighties but we bypassed it during our in-depth Mt Veeder appellation Napa trip last year.

When one thinks of Hess, one naturally thinks of that property up on Mt Veeder on the southwestern side of Napa Valley where their winery and many of their vineyards sit high above the valley. So it was surprising to discover this Hess vineyard designated label from the Allomi vineyard in the rolling hills of of the opposite northeastern Napa Valley at the lower reaches of the backside or eastern face of  Howell Mountain.

We learned from our visit to Viader during our Howell Mountain appellation trip to Napa that the demarcation point between Napa Valley and Howell Mountain appellations is at 1200 feet of elevation due to the fog layer that rises to but tapers off there.

According to the producer, the 210-acre vineyard is composed of 35 blocks of six different clones that add a diversity of flavors to the blend.

This wine exhibits dark purple color, medium bodied, nicely polished, pleasant easy drinking in this moderate priced cab, it has nicely integrated current and berry flavors with a layer of spicy sweet cinnamon and cedar with tones of mocha and sweet oak on a smooth fine grain tannins on the moderate finish. Its represents a reasonable value on sale in the $22 price range.

RM 88 points.

Blend - 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petite Sirah, 2% Petit Verdot

Aged 16 months in American oak (25% new)

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1436279

http://www.hesscollection.com/vineyards/allomi.html

Sunday, January 13, 2013

Duo of 1996 Vintage Reds - Robert Craig Mt Veeder - Lafon-Rochet

Duo of 1996 Vintage Reds for Birthday Celebration Dinner - Robert Craig Mt Veeder - Lafon-Rochet St Estephe


To celebrate friends Bill and Beth C's birthdays we drank two contrasting style 1996 vintage reds. I pulled a Robert Craig Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon while Bill brought a Lafon-Rochet St Estephe Bordeaux. To use the 'shape' metaphor in explaining the contrasting styles, the Craig with its single varietal Cabernet mountain fruit was 'narrower' but 'deeper' while the more complex blend of the St Estephe was 'wider' but more 'shallow'. Understandably, the Craig exhibited big round forward fruit flavors. The Bordeaux, while the fruit was more subdued, was more complex with multiple dimensions and combinations of flavors of graphite, earth, leather and spice accenting the black fruits. 


We celebrated dinner at Angeli's Italian Restaurant in Naperville, our favorite local trattoria. Breaking normal conventions of feasting on their pasta entrees, Bill and I both selected Angelis' Filet Porto to accompany our wines - a grilled filet of beef in a port wine sauce with spinach, mushrooms, and sun-dried tomatoes. Beth chose the Tri-color Tortellini in Pesto cream sauce while L chose the asparagus ravioli 

A surprise highlight of the wine focused dinner was the perfect pairing of the St Estephe with the starter of Angelis' baked stuffed mushrooms stuffed with Italian sausage topped with mozzarella cheese. Another highlight was the perfect complement of the pairing of the Robert Craig Cabernet with the Port Wine sauce and the sweet tones of the sun-dried tomatoes.

Prior to dinner at home, we opened a gala Pierre Gimonnet Brut Cuis 1er Cru NV Champagne with cheeses, fresh fruits and mixed nuts. Back at home afterwards, we opened a near 1996 vintage Warre's Quinta da Cavadhina Vintage Porto 1995 with Linda's sinfully delicious flowerless chocolate cake with fresh berries.


Robert Craig Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons

We've long been fans of Robert Craig and his family of appellation specific Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons featuring mountain fruits from three different Napa Mountains, Mt Veeder, Howell Mountain, and Spring Mountain District, and sometimes supplemented by another offering from Mt George.

We first met Robert back in the early 1990's when he was producing his handcrafted wines up on Atlas Peak. Robert started his winemaking career up on Mt Veeder and as such, this was his first Mountain designated release offering under the Robert Craig label, and fittingly, it is his favorite.

Shortly thereafter he released a Howell Mountain label which is typically my favorite, up until the limited release of his Spring Mountain District Cabernet in 2007 which I like even more! All the while, he also offers his Affinity Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon which is a blend sourced from the numerous locations as well as the valley floor, a wine produced for more affordable early drinking.

We've met with the Robert and Lynn Craig and various members of their team numerous  times during our Napa Wine Experiences (1998), during their visits here to Chicago, and have visited their Howell Mountain winery harvest parties and special events, and of course their tasting room in town in Napa.

Perhaps our most memorable Robert Craig experience was a special luncheon we held up at the winery during our Napa Howell Mountain Wine Experience 2008 - Robert Craig on the lawn overlooking the vineyards, the valley below, and the opposing Mayacamas range across the Valley. A photo of that picturesque setting (shown above) was Linda's screensaver for years and the subject of one of her oil paintings.

Looking at the index of our cellar inventory and tasting notes for the Robert Craig wines including Mt Veeder Cab, one can see we still have or have already drinkage every vintage of this wine dating back to the inaugural release in 1993.

We attended the Robert Craig Howell Mountain Harvest Party '09 (the four of us with Rachel pictured left) event, and have visited the Napa town tasting room with Bill and Beth, so it was only fitting we selected this wine for their celebration dinner. 



Robert Craig Napa Valley Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 1996

This surprising vibrancy of the fruit of this seventeen year old attests to the longevity of these wines although its a bit more subdued than earlier years as it is approaching the end of its drinking window. Still medium to full bodied, moderately firm with dark purple color it showed juicy round full and forward black fruits of blackberry and black currant with a subtle layer of leather setting in, with cedar and hints of vanilla bean and creme de cassis, a touch of pencil lead on the finish with moderate lingering tannins. 

RM 90 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=15141

Château Lafon-Rochet St. Estephe Bordeaux 1996

Bill's tasting notes of the Lafon-Rochet from Cellartracker.

Medium garnet color. Damp earth, musty with a very slight hint of floral on the nose. This opened a bit tight but over 2 hours began to reveal much more fruit than I expected from a 17 year old St. Estephe. Medium bodied, some light fruit, cherry, cassis and plum on the palate. Also revealed some minerality, vanilla and a bit of oak. Nicely balanced with modest tannins and layered flavors. Really pleasant surprise.

WCC (and RM) 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=8570





Warre's Quinta da Cavadhina Vintage Porto 1995

Dark coffee color - full bodied, a bit of an edge of sweet black fruits, layer of smokey creosote with hint of cedar and cassis and black cherry on the finish.


RM 89 points. 

This was one of WINE SPECTATOR’S Top 10 Dessert Wines for 1998

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=3721  

http://www.warre.com/section.php?id=777