Pages

Thursday, August 27, 2015

Bouchaine Estate Chardonnay at Chinn's Fishery Lisle

Bouchaine Chardonnay Estate Vineyard 2011 at Chinn's 34th Street Fishery in Lisle, IL

For an impromptu casual weeknight seafood dinner we dined at Chinn's 34th Street Fishery in Lisle, IL. Many people are aware of the legendary Bob Chinn's Crab House up in Wheeling, IL, one of the top five grossing restaurants in the United States serving more than one million diners per year! 

Chinn's is known for "jet fresh" seafood, jetted in daily from quality providers in the leading seafood markets - Hawaii, Alaska, the Atlantic, the Pacific, Florida, Louisiana and other centers where they have something to offer on any given day. 

I recall there is a connection with the famous Bob Chinn's and Stan (shown left) and Kim Chinn, owners of Chinn's 34th Street Fishery, nephew and Uncle as I remember. Whatever the connection is, it is readily apparent in Bob Chinn's 'jet fresh' approach also employed by Chinn's in Lisle. Like Chinn's Wheeling, they showcase the day's arrivals with the actual Air Bills of Lading (pictured below) from the major airlines - Alaska, United, American, Southwest ... showing arrivals that day from the seafood centers around the globe. The philosophy provides the best seafood catch of the day from all the centers. Both preach a deliver fresh catch selection, quality and value with a simple direct straightforward presentation in a no-frills setting.

A reminisce side story - I digress ... Stan and Kim Chinn cite on their website that they "landed in Lisle, a place they were both familiar with. 10 years prior to opening Chinn's Fishery, they both worked at the same location they would later purchase for their business." 

Jet Fresh Seafood !
I would bet a paycheck that very few can recall a restaurant that was there previously. Before then, going back many years (circa 1980), Linda and I enjoyed dining at this location at a restaurant called Bully's. We dined there often and rejoiced having such a quality venue with such great food in such a cosmopolitan yet comfortable setting so close to home. We dined there often. I still remember some of our favorite entree selections.

Then, we had a sub-standard visit, followed by another, and then again. Noting the trend, I summoned the MOD - Manager on Duty to inquire if there had been a change, citing our experience of notable diminution. We were advised that the property had previously been purchased and taken over by the notable restauranteur (Peter) George Makris, whose Flame Restaurant had literally burned to the ground. He took over the local eatery and established Bully's to keep his staff and business operations intact whilst he rebuilt the new restaurant in nearby Oak Brook Terrace. Then, when the restaurant was finished, the whole lot moved into the new venue and Bully's was taken over by a new owner and staff. (Makris also had 'Flame' steak houses in Chicago, suburban Countryside (closed in 2012), and West Palm Beach, FL).

Chinn's 34th Street Fishery - Lisle
Researching this further, my recollection is correct .. checking his obituary from the archives, according to the Chicago Tribune March 24, 1997, "In 1964, he (George Makris) opened the Flame, in Oakbrook Terrace that burned to the ground in 1979 but was reopened around the corner in 1982. In 1994, Mr. Makris changed the Flame's name to Bully's Chop House & Tavern Room..." It was during that interim period that we availed ourselves of team Makris in Lisle in the site that today is Chinn's. Stan Chinn took over the follow on flailing restaurant in 1995 and founded Chinn's 34th Street Fishery and are celebrating their twentieth year.

Back to the two Chinns. Another indication of the connection between the two Chinn restaurants is their common feature selection preparation options - Bob Chinn's "Eight Way" (shown) and Chinn's 34th Street Fishery "Seven Way" fish preparation - 1) Steamed, 2) Chargrilled, 3) Blackened, 4) Beer Batter Fried, 5) Sauteed with lemon, 6) Broiled Grecian Style, 7) Sauteed with capers, and 8) Stir fried with mushrooms. 

If you need further proof, try their garlic laced bread rolls common in both sites! 

From the simple, basic winelist, we selected this Bouchaine Estate Chardonnay for our dinner. Beth ordered the stuffed shrimp, Bill the sea scallops, grilled, and Linda, the crabcakes. I took the prize for the best dinner entree selection, the Hawaiian Mongchong, chargrilled, one of their signature dishes and a fresh catch of the day, which was delicious. 

Note that Wednesday nights, bottle wines are half price (except premier selections). We'll note that for our next visit!

Visitors to the Napa/Sonoma Valley region that have traversed the Napa Sonoma Road that wraps around the bottom of Mount Veeder that separates Napa and Sonoma valleys, where it approaches the top of San Pablo Bay, the area known as Carneros, will recall passing Domaine Carneros on the main highway. What is notable about that elegant stylish Chateau, is that it sits at the top of the bottom-land that reaches down to the water, San Pablo Bay, which is the north end of San Francisco Bay. Turn South towards the water there and there are a number of vineyards and wineries that feature Carneros Burgundian varietal wines - notably Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Besides Acacia Vineyards and Etude, one of the major producers in the area is Bouchaine. 


Bouchaine state they are the longest continuously operating winery in the Carneros, going back to the turn of the previous century, and under the same current ownership since 1981. The story goes that the property was originally settled by a Missourian with the colorful name Boon Fly who grew grapes and fruit trees on the property in the late 1880s.  In 1927, the parcel was acquired by an Italian winemaker named Johnny Garetto who sold to Beringer in 1961.

The current owners Gerret and Tatiana Copeland were part of a partnership that purchased the winery and surrounding land in 1981 and proceeded to develop and renovate the property. Bouchaine Vineyards was born in 1993 when they became sole proprietors. Around 1990 they added 60 acres to the original thirty, contiguous property that includes the two hills which have become icons of the Bouchaine Estate and are featured in their label design.

Today, the Bouchaine’s Estate is 100 rolling acres  planted in 7 clones of Pinot Noir, 5 clones of Chardonnay, along with some Pinot Meunier and Pinot Gris. They produce a wide range of labels with a couple vineyard designated selections. This label is their baseline Estate bottled Chardonnay that is targeted at providing a high QPR large production wide distribution bottling to introduce and establish brand awareness for the line.

Note that Bouchaine Winery will be at Chinn's 34th Street Fisher October 6th for a wine dinner. 

Bouchaine Napa Valley Carneros Estate Vineyard Chardonnay 2011

With its cooler and rain shortened growing season, being picked early, this Chardonnay is less rich and deep as vintages allowed to ripen further - resulting in higher acidity and forward citrus lemon predominating, that the winemaker states serves as a great palate cleaners between bites of buttery sauce laced foods with simply grilled dishes. Its light, butter colored, clean crispness finishing with subtle tones of pear and almond was a nice compliment to our seafood dinners.

RM 87 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1885260

http://www.bouchaine.com/

http://www.chinnsfishery.com/

Thursday, August 20, 2015

Marquis Philips '9' McLaren Vale Shiraz 2002

Marquis Philips '9' McLaren Vale Shiraz 2002

For pop and pour sipping on the deck with some herb (from our garden) infused oil and cheese, I pulled this Marquis Philips '9' Shiraz 2002, one of a few remaining from the oldest of a half dozen vintages we still hold of this wine.  Crafted by Sparky and Sarah Marquis before they moved to Mollydooker fame, this bold expressive forward wine begs for the tangy spicy bar-b-cue or hearty cheese, and vica versa!

 As I wrote in my last review of this wine, last summer, this full-throttle intensely concentrated classic South Australian Shiraz burst on the scene in 2001 with direction from Robert Parker to 'run, don't walk' to your wineshop to buy this wine.  Marquis Philps was the result of a partnership between the highly respected South Australian viticulturists/winemakers, Sarah and Sparky Marquis and their importer, Dan Philips of the Grateful Palate. The Aussie - American partnership produced the whimsical Roogle character - half eagle and half kangaroo (shown on label left). The brand of Marquis Philips inexpensive wines immediately gained enormous success and a faithful following. Of course Sarah and Sparky Marquis went on to form the current follow-on brand/label Mollydooker.

This big, complex, concentrated powerful wine with super rich, ripe tongue-coating fruit. This release of  '9' was sourced from McLaren Vale (60%) and Padthaway (40%) in South Central Australia.

This 2002 Shiraz 9 is showing the same at a thirteen years as it did at ten according to my earlier review, still opaque dark garnet inky purple colored, full-bodied, complex,  intensely concentrated tongue coating notes of super ripe black currants and plum but the aging fruits are taking on notes of raisin and fig with tones of espresso roast, smoked meats and leather on the layer of mocha, burnt sugar with hints of alcohol and anise on the lingering finish.

While Robert Parker and I gave this 93 points on release and in 2004, I give it 88 points at this stage of life and advise to drink it up. Linda loves this bold expressive style but its actually too much and over the top for my tastes.

RM 88 points. 
93 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate October 2004
89 points, Stephen Tanzer's IWC

http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=17771 

Wednesday, August 19, 2015

Neiman Cellars Red Wine Caldwell Vineyard 1999


Neiman Cellars Red Wine Caldwell Vineyard 1999

For an impromptu mid-week dinner w/ L at our neighborhood trattoria, Angeli's Italian, we took this BYOB selection from the cellar. This is the sixth vintage of this label we've tried and the oldest at time of drinking, and our first taste of this vintage. Hence, the advanced age may be a determinant of its tasting profile as much as the vintage characteristics. I sense this is at its apex but nearing the end of its prime drinking window. It was a great accompaniment to Angeli's hearty Pasta and Peas with Vodka Cream Sauce.

Only 130 cases were produced of this vintage release. This was not as complex, smooth or polished as the last bottle we had in late spring which was from the 2004 vintage.

Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied, thick chewy concentrated complex super ripe black and blue berry fruits predominate with tones of cassis, leather and smoky oak. Bright acidity with full textured mouthfeel tannins on the lingering tangy finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=48712

www.angeliscatering.com 

Monday, August 17, 2015

Diverse Big Reds for Angelis Italian Dinner

Diverse Big Reds for Angelis Italian Dinner

For a wine dine get together with two wine buddy friends Don K and TRR, we took some special bottles BYOB to our regular meeting place for such occasions, Angeli's Italian, our favorite neighborhood trattoria. Don came by to pick up fifty bottles of wine I had acquired for his cellar as part of my consolidated buying for myself and my wine buddies. We learned our lesson and started this practice years ago to avoid bidding against each other for the same wines at auction! Also it allows us to pool our resources for greater buying influence/power, and to spread the spoils of allocated wines. Don brought a Wallis Family Estate Napa Diamond Mtn Cab while Tom brought a classic Tignanello 1999. Both wines were perfect accompaniments to the Italian Sausage and Peppers starter and the hearty pasta dishes.

Wallis Family Estate Napa Valley Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2010


An interesting discovery by Don, this boutique producer label is
crafted by legendary winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown, ala TRB.
Thomas, from South Carolina, attended the University of Virginia before moving west to Napa Valley soon after graduating. He started his wine career working for Turley Wine Cellars in 1997. Today, he is winemaker for over a dozen wine brands including Schrader, Maybach, Revana, and Outpost, specializing in premium Cabernet. He has produced multiple perfect 100 point wines, notably "Old Sparky" by Schrader Cellars leading to being awarded Winemaker of the Year in 2010 by Food & Wine. 

He hooked with up Wallis starting with the 2009 vintage release. This  label is sourced from fruit their 13 acres of vineyards in Diamond Mountain District at an elevation between 600 to 800 feet. They grow Bordeaux varietals Cabernet (75%), Cab Franc and Petit Verdot.

The vineyards are part of an 85 acre property on Diamond Mountain Road in Calistoga acquired by Wallis in 1975. The property came with an old stone Castle built in 1906 by Jacques Pacheteau, which they are turning into a classic stylish tasting room, and a Barn built in the late 1800’s designed by W.H. Corlett. Fruit from the vineyards planted in 1997 was initially sold to David Ramey of Ramey Wine Cellars from 2001-2003, and then to Chris Carpenter of Lokoya Winery from 2004-2005. From 2006, Wallis has produced wine for themselves under their own label. Wallis Family Estate currently produce their wines at Thomas' new winery venture at Mending Wall Winery on Silverado Trail in St. Helena.


Dark blackish garnet colored, medium-full bodied, slightly lean moderate black cherry and berry fruits accented by a layer of tar, smoke and spice. Somewhat closed and tight on opening it opened after an hour and much moreso the next evening to aromatic floral and incense, ending in powerful, intense, acid laced tannins on the finish.

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1413534

http://www.wallisestate.com/

Antinori Tignanello Toscana IGT 1999

We've shared this wine with TRR a couple times over the years. Classic SuperTuscan Blend hitting its stride in its fifteenth year, perhaps at the apex of its tasting window. Consistent with my notes from earlier tastings.

Deep Ruby colored, medium-full bodied, forward bright vibrant mouthful of black cherry predominates with notes of currant, spice, and hints of tobacco and leather on a lingering silky tannin finish.




RM 91 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=96168

Saturday, August 15, 2015

Caravan Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Caravan Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

The exploration of the blockbuster 2012 Napa vintage continues. With a 'textbook perfect' vintage, there are likely to be some blockbuster wines, and great high QPR values from the second and lesser labels as the vintages releases are introduced.

Caravan 2011 shown
Following our tasting the blockbuster, big robust Paul Hobbs Crossbarn 2012 last night, we were drawn to try another 2012 second label for a mini horizontal comparison - second Paul Hobbs label vs the Caravan second label of Darioush.

Caravan generally tends toward a more fruit-driven palate and forward profile, less sophisticated and complex than the Darioush 'Signature' label. This release is a blend of 14% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Malbec to add finesse to the Cabernet and complexity to the finish.

From the winery: "A fabulous vintage produced a stylish and substantial 2012 Caravan with a firm, structured palate and sleek, polished tannins. Offering saturated flavors of dark cherry and blueberry as well as notes of chocolate and white truffle; this is a round, supple and thoroughly approachable wine ready to be open and enjoyed."

We're big fans of Darioush but have never been enamored with this second label. The Darioush presentation of Caravan is interesting in how it positions Caravan - "Caravan is borne of the exploration of new vineyard sites for our Signature wines. Made in an approachable style, Caravan supports winemaking experimentation and vineyard enhancement."

We ordered a bottle of this with son Ryan, at the bar of the rustic Herrington Inn in Geneva where we were attending the wedding celebration of daughter-in-law's brother. After tasting the big robust Paul Hobbs Crossbarn,  (which was also on the winelist), Caravan with its narrower and more subdued fruit comes across like a prop vs a jet.

Ruby colored, medium bodied, the austere profile was apparent in the glass. Initially a bit lean and narrow, the cherry fruit was quickly overtaken by tones of graphite, anise, leather and coffee with a hint of mocha and truffle. This showed much better later in the evening against the table wine served at the banquet we were attending. Big fans of Darioush but never here-to-for captivated by this second label, that trend continues. Perhaps another try will reveal it in a better light.

RM 87 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1876509

Paul Hobbs Cab highlights cityscape dinner

CrossBarn Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon highlights post City Series Cross-town Classic Dinner Amidst Historic Industrial Building

With Dr Dan and Linda, we watched the white hot Cubbies (eight wins in a row, 14 out of 15) defeat the host White Sox in the opener of the second installment of the Cross-Town Classic Series. Afterwards we dined at our well kept secret (no more) nearby steakhouse, May Street Cafe. Pronouncing Contemporary Latin cuisine featuring Allen Brothers steaks, this neighborhood eatery in the Pilsen neighborhood sits next to a quaint, cozy neighborhood Dvorak city park, opposite the giant Com-ed Power Plant, next to the historic classic early 20th century gothic ornamented tower building (2211 So. Throop St), topped by the radio tower reminiscent of Dick Tracy or a Superman cartoon series. I'm no doubt one of the few that love that tower and imagine such a setting. Reinforcing the image, adding to the cityscape is the classic Steak-n-Egger Diner in the shadows of the tower.

My interest in history and architecture takes over here. 

Image capture from Google Streetview
The mysterious tower building is the 400,000 square-foot, 14 story landmark building designed by noted Chicago architect George Nimmons (1926). The building originally served as a warehouse and garage for the adjacent Commonwealth Edison Fisk Generating station. The 198-foot-high radio tower served the communication system to dispatch emergency equipment.

Today, the building is home to artist studios, exhibition spaces, classrooms, a cafe, a library and home to Mana Contemporary Chicago, an expanding art center. It houses the University of Illinois at Chicago School of Art and Art History, the Propeller Fund which is administered jointly by Gallery 400 at the University of Illinois at Chicago and Three Walls.

Propeller Fund provides grants to artists, curators, and groups living and working in Cook County, Illinois, and seeks to support projects that are independent, informal, and self-organized. The facility houses several dozen artists in residence.

According to the Mana Contemporary literature, "Mana serves as a nexus for both established and emerging artists and organizations from across the city. Artists of diverse disciplines, including painting, sculpture, photography, dance, film, sound, and performance work alongside each other in a campus environment which fosters experimentation, collaboration, and mutual inspiration. A hub of programming and activity for Chicago artists and art lovers, Mana Contemporary also provides a central platform for art schools and organizations dedicated to educating and supporting emerging artists. As Mana Contemporary Chicago grows, it will continue to expand its services to the city’s artists, showcasing their practices, processes, and ideas to the public."

George Nimmons, a contemporary of Frank Lloyd Wright, designed mainly large commercial and industrial  buildings, most notably the mail order plant headquarters for Sears, Roebuck and Company (1905-06). He did many other buildings for Sears - warehouses, mail order plants, and retail stores across the country. He also designed the R. W. Sears home in Grayslake, Illinois (1906), and the twenty-room Prairie-style mansion built for Sears, Roebuck and Company president Julius Rosenwald in Chicago (1903).

Nimmon's other major works in Chicago include the Reid, Murdoch & Company Building (1913), the clock tower building that overlooks the Chicago River opposite Wacker Drive at North Clark Street, the Franklin Building (1912), the C. P. Kimball & Company Building (1913) at 39th and Michigan, the Adams Schaaf Piano Company Building on Fillmore Street (1916), the Union Special Machines Company Building (1918), the W. M. Hoyt Building in nearby Armour Square (1909), Kelley Building (1921) and the American Furniture Mart Building (1923, 1926), now known as 680 N Lake Shore Drive. When built it was the largest building in the world for a short time.

We discovered May Street Cafe for a wine and dine dinners and now dine there often before and after Sox games with its proximity to Sox Park, yet hidden away and separated from Bridgeport and the Sox area by an expressway, the adjoining river and the industrial belt. Its the kind of place you would drive by regularly and never notice, or consider for a wine-dine retreat, but their attention to serious cuisine and their thoughtfully selected wine list make it perfect for such occasions. And it offers outside dining as well, if you don't mind the power station and radio tower views (which as I wrote, is part of its allure and charm)!

Alas, following this study, dinner at May Street Cafe will never be the same. Unless you're into history and architecture, you'll want to avoid that evening, or sit at the other end of the table. It begs for a destination trip just to the Mana site, followed by a wine and steak dinner...

Tonight, Dan ordered the foie gras starter, then red tuna steak entree, Linda J, the petit filet, and Linda (A) and I, the bone-in pork chop.

'CrossBarn' Paul Hobbs Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

This is the another label of Paul Hobbs who grew up in upstate New York on a rural farm where he learned the influence of terroir on the character of fruit, when his father had him taste apples of the same variety grown in different orchards several miles apart from one another.

The name is a tribute to a "cross barn" that sat amidst the hundred fifty year old family farm in upstate New York. A favorite haunt for Paul and his ten siblings, it took on a life of its own and is a fond remembrance as a place of great mystery and adventure.

Paul initially worked for Robert Mondavi where his understanding of oak aging landed him a position on the inaugural Opus One winemaking team.  He later worked at Simi Winery as Winemaker before going on to consult for Peter Michael, Fisher Vineyards, Lewis Cellars, Bodegas Catena and others.  He founded Paul Hobbs Winery in 1991, and Vina Cobos in 1999, and also serves as a leading consultant winemaker.

We love this style of wine - vibrant, expressive Napa Valley fruit at its finest for approachable tasty drinking wines. CrossBarn Paul Hobbs label is known for notable Sonoma County Pinots and Chardonnays, but they recently introduced Cabernets from Napa and Sonoma Counties.

No wimpy wine here, this 2012 version from Napa is dark garnet/inky purple colored, full bodied with rich concentrated forward fruits of black currant, ripe black and blue berries, accented by clove spice, mocha and sweet oak, with soft acidity and nicely integrated sweet and smooth tannins.

This is a great discovery and I look forward to trying the other selections from this CrossBarn. A testament to this great vintage too - check out other producer's line-ups, the rewards and delights of a spectacular vintage where their 'lesser' labels often excel and even meet or exceed the first label, and offer tremendous QPR - Quality to Price ratios. This was a blockbuster, enjoyed by all, and a great value at under $90 on May Street's winelist. Pick this up if you can find it for early aging gratification as well as longer term cellaring.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1883620

Winemakers notes and comments: "The 2012 growing season has been described by many as “textbook perfect”. Temperate summer days moderated plant growth, contributing to smaller cluster and berry size during lag phase, leading to increased concentration of flavors. An idyllic Indian summer finished the maturation process, producing fruit with exceptional character and intensity.

Dark ruby in color, our Cabernet Sauvignon offers enticing aromas of dark cherries, ripe blueberries, anise and fresh lavender.  A tantalizing palate offers a medley of boysenberry, currants, violets, clove and cocoa.  Tannins are sweet and smooth; balanced acidity brightens a lengthy finish.
Color: Saturated crimson
Aroma: Black raspberry, boysenberry, violets, caramelized tobacco leaf, spicebox, pencil shavings
Flavor: Concentrated, juicy red fruits, damp earth, cedar, baking spices
Texture: Round and focused with sweet, fine-grained tannins and a long, slate-like finish"

http://www.crossbarn.com/

http://www.maystcafe.com/

Other selections from May Street Cafe ...

May Street Cafe Foie Gras

May Street Cafe Red Tuna Steak Entree

May Street Cafe Bone-in Pork Chop with
Sweet potoate mash, and pineapple relish and grilled vegies



Thursday, August 13, 2015

Lamborn Howell Mtn Zin and Pizza on the Patio

Lamborn Howell Mountain Zinfandel - Perfect for Pizza on the Patio

I wrote the other day about the imperative of keeping some zinfandel in the cellar for barbecue, and pizza was part of that order too. We had an impromptu pizza and wine dinner with neighbor Shirley on the patio by the pool, while Mark was on the big lake preparing the boat for this weekends colossal Chicago Air and Water Show. We ordered from a local eatery our consensus favorite, thin slice well done ... and I pulled from the cellar this hearty robust Zinfandel.

This is another in the collection of Lamborn Family Vineyards Zinfandels I recently obtained at auction that I wrote about in that recent blogpost.

As I wrote, we visited Lamborn Family Vineyards high atop Howell Mountain on the back side of the mountain overlooking the Pope Valley, during our Napa Wine Experience in 2008. Mike and Terry Lamborn are wonderful folks whose vineyards are a labor of love, and site for whimsical and fun scuplture artwork too. Legendary Heidi Barrett is their winemaker. We also share a bit of a bond with Lamborn from our work in National Security Intelligence.

I wrote about Howell Mountain terroir provides distinctive concentrated spicy fruit for Zinfandel (as well as Cabernet) and is one of our favorite appellations of the seventeen Napa growing areas.

Lamborn Family Vineyards "Echo Vintage" Zinfandel 2004

Dark blackish garnet colored, full bodied. big forward concentrated brambly rich super ripe black berry fruits with tones of ripe raisin, fig and creosote and hints of black pepper. I am sure the concentrated bramble profile is accented by its age. This wine begs for spicy pasta, dark chocolate or the like to offset the robust forward fruits. The girls love this style but I personally find it almost 'over to top'.

RM 88 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=260429

https://www.lamborn.com/ 

Wednesday, August 12, 2015

97 Napa Reds Highlight Steak Salmon Dinner

Tasty '97 Napa Reds Highlight Grilled Steak Salmon Dinner - 1997 Vertical Tasting

The plan was to attend the Wednesdays, Woods and Wine evening concert with friends Bill and Beth, part of the summer series at the Morton Arboretum where we've been members for decades. When we arrived the parking lots were overflowing to a remote lot with no transport to the venue. With lawn chairs and picnic dinner, it wasn't an option so we headed back home. The ever resourceful Linda pulled together an impromptu dinner of grilled steaks and salmon and we pulled from the cellar these tasty reds.


David Arthur Napa Valley Meritaggio 1997

Our tasting at the David Arthur winery overlooking Napa Valley was a highlight of our Napa Valley Wine Experience in 2013.

This was nice tasty easy sipping starter on the deck pre-dinner. CT says I still have six bottles of the case we bought on release but I think this may the last bottle from the lot.

Consistent with previous tasting notes, this may be at its apex as its showing well - bright and expressive, such that I extended the CT posted drinking window from 2010 to 2016.

Deep dark ruby colored with tinge of purple, medium to full bodied, elegant, polished, smooth and delicious full forward sweet currant, plum and red berry fruits accented by subtle smoke layer turning to silky smooth tannins on a full long finish.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=6106

Constant Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

This was a mini tribute to producer Freddie Constant. Bill and I both received our release mailer from Constant this last week and noted the picture of team Constant, sans the departed Freddie who passed away since last harvest. We recalled the tasting we did with him at the spectacular winery high atop Diamond Mountain.

Like the Meritaggio above, this is also showing well at eighteen years, indicating the aging ability and length of the '97 vintage - patience being rewarded! I modified this drinking window too, from 2012 to 2016, as its still hitting its stride.

Dark blackish garnet colored, tightly wound concentrated core of black berry and black raspberry fruits with tones of tobacco, graphite, black tea and hints of leather and allspice on the firm but smooth tannin finish. This was a perfect complement to the grilled steaks.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=36392

After dinner with fresh baked shortbreads and assorted chocolates we opened this other smooth easy drinking sipper.

Spring Valley Vineyards Uriah Walla Walla Red Wine 2005 

Bill asked for a Merlot based blend and we found this. Back in 2009 I wrote that this definitely needs some time. Well, its time! This was delightful and a perfect fit for the after dinner cake and chocolates. At that time I wrote, "Definitely needs some time - decant and let breathe. A bit harsh up front with cedar and tar overpowering black currant and black berry fruits - turns to vanilla with creme brulee burnt sugar on the long firm tannin filled finish. Still approachable and enjoyable - just not as smooth as the '03 or the '06."

Well, this has softened and become much more approachable in the five years since.

Dark garnet colored, medium full bodied, smooth polished forward aromatic black currant and black berry fruits give way to hint of nicely integrated oak turning to tones of minerality, black cherry and dark mocha chocolate with hints of anise and tobacco.

RM 93 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=365759

Bordeaux varietal blend of 53% Merlot, 36% Cab franc, 8% Petit Verdot, and 3% Malbec.

https://www.springvalleyvineyard.com/




Saturday, August 8, 2015

Vineyard Wedding in Michigan

Vineyard Wedding and Wine in Michigan

Friends Dave and Marie's daughter Jacki wanted a wedding amidst the vines of a vineyard. The thought of a vineyard wedding prompts thoughts of a destination wedding in Tuscany, Provence or Sonoma. But with a lake home on the Michigan shores in southwestern Michigan wine country, this was not a far-fetched idea for them.

About two hours from Chicago is a burgeoning wine producing region the Lake Michigan Shore Wine Country, an designated AVA - American Viticultural Area. Starting at the Indiana border, it reaches across the southwestern corner of Michigan north to the Kalamazoo River and east toward the City of Kalamazoo.

Those of us that live near the Great Lakes are familiar with 'Lake effect' weather - more moderate near the Lake - cooler in the summer, warmer in the winter. Those along the eastern shores of the Great Lakes are affected even more profoundly by snows that are produced by the more moderate lake warmed air crossing the lake and picking up moisture to be deposited as it is sharply cooled on landfall. We've all seen the news footage of highly localized snowbelts that measure their snowfall in feet rather than inches. 

These more temperate climates with moderated extremes of heat and cold, also protect the varietal grape vine's fragile buds in spring and ripening fruits in summer. The deep, lake-effect snows insulate the rich soil so the vine roots don’t freeze, and the consistent annual rainfall enables the production of clusters of grapes for producing abundant wines. And the soil is sand for optimal maximum drainage to starve the vines to produce intense fruits.


Michigan has 15,000 acres of vineyards making Michigan the fourth largest grape-growing state.
  • Most of this acreage is devoted to juice grapes such as Concord and Niagara.
  • About 2,650 acres are devoted to wine grapes, making Michigan the fifth state in wine grape production in the nation.
  • Vineyard area has doubled over the last 10 years.
  • Michigan's 117 commercial wineries produce more than 1.4 million gallons of wine annually, making Michigan 13th in wine production. The vast majority of production is from Michigan-grown grapes.
Wineries are popular tourist destinations, attracting more than 2 million visitors annually.
The wine industry contributes $300 million annually to Michigan's economy.
Three types of grapes are used for wine in Michigan:
  • Vinifera varieties - these are the classic European varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling (the most widely planted white), Pinot Noir (the most widely planted red), Pinot Grigio/Gris and Cabernet Franc; about 65% of Michigan's wine grapes are vinifera. Since 1997, 90% of the new plantings in Michigan have been vinifera varieties.
  • Hybrid varieties (sometimes called French/American hybrids) - these are botanical crosses between vinifera varieties and grapes native to North America. Typical names are Vidal, Chambourcin, Marechal Foch and Vignoles; about 35% of Michigan's wine grapes are hybrids.
  • Native varieties - actually close relatives of true native varieties. Typical names are Concord and Niagara. About 3% of Michigan's wine is made from these varieties.
Most of Michigan's quality wine grapes grow within 25 miles of Lake Michigan. Here, the "lake effect" protects the vines with snow in winter, retards bud break in spring helping avoid frost damage, and extends the growing season by up to four weeks.
Michigan has four federally approved viticultural areas (AVAs). In the northwest part of the state, near Traverse City, lie the Leelanau Peninsula and the Old Mission Peninsula. This area has a growing season averaging 145 days and an average heat accumulation of 2,350 growing degree days; 51% of Michigan's wine grapes grow here. In the southwest part of the state lie the Lake Michigan Shore and Fennville appellations, where 45% of Michigan's wine grapes are grown. This area has a growing season averaging 160 days and an average heat accumulation of 2,750 growing degree days. Both are Region 6 on the USDA plant hardiness zone map.
Harvest begins for early hybrid varieties at the end of August in the southwest and may extend into November for late-ripening vinifera varieties in the northwest.
Increasingly, Michigan wines are receiving high honors at national and international competitions. In addition, the Michigan Wine and Spirits Competition provides for head-to-head comparisons of the best of Michigan. Results are posted online following each year's competition.
Michigan wineries make many styles of wine, from dry to sweet including Ice Wine, sparkling, fortified, fruit wines and eau-de-vie (fruit brandy).
Michigan wines are typically "cool climate" - clean, crisp, balanced wines that exhibit real varietal character
- See more at: http://www.michiganwines.com/fast-facts#sthash.SgElcqLG.dpuf
People outside the region will be astonished to hear that Michigan has 15,000 acres of vineyards making Michigan the fourth largest grape-growing state. While most of this acreage is devoted to juice grapes such as Concord and Niagara, about 2,650 acres are devoted to wine grapes, making Michigan the fifth state in wine grape production in the nation. The amount of vineyard area has doubled over the last 10 years.

Today, Michigan has 117 commercial wineries that produce more than 1.4 million gallons of wine annually, making Michigan 13th in wine production. The majority of the grapes produced are the classic European varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling (the most widely planted white), Pinot Noir (the most widely planted red), Pinot Grigio/Gris and Cabernet Franc.

About one-third of the production is Hybrid varieties - crosses between the European vinifera varieties and grapes native to North America, such as Vidal, Chambourcin, Marechal Foch and Vignoles.

So, last weekend we attended Jacki and Chris' wedding and sipped on local Michigan wines. Being the wine snob that I am, I've been known to say there are no appealing Michigan wines. Previous experiences of Michigan Bordeaux varietal based wines were 'grassy' and 'woody' with musty subdued fruit. This weekend we tasted and toasted not only respectable tasty wines, but wines of European Bordeaux varietals that here-to-for unremarkable, showed nice somewhat complex yet approachable fruits with balanced fruit, moderate acid and tannins.


In fact, the local Cabernet Sauvignon served was a great accompaniment to the grilled steak, and the Chardonnay to the salmon filets. 

The story book setting amongst the vines on the temperate summer evening could've been in Sonoma, Provence or Tuscany! Bocci balls aside!






Twelve Corners Vineyards Lake Michigan Shores Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

Dark garnet colored, medium bodied, black berry and currant fruits with tones of smoke, hints of earthy leather and all spice on a moderate tannin finish.

RM 87 points.  

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2162940





 

Twelve Corners Vineyards Lake Michigan Shores Chardonnay 2012

Butter colored, medium bodied, tangy citrus and wet stone predominate, dry white wine with aromas of apple and vanilla. Oak barrel and steel tank aging lends to the complex and zesty finish. 


RM 86 points. 

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=2162944

http://www.12corners.com/



Twelve Corner Vineyards Beach Cottage Vacation White and Red names and labels reflect the Lake Michigan Shore appellation lifestyle and scene.


Michigan has 15,000 acres of vineyards making Michigan the fourth largest grape-growing state.
  • Most of this acreage is devoted to juice grapes such as Concord and Niagara.
  • About 2,650 acres are devoted to wine grapes, making Michigan the fifth state in wine grape production in the nation.
  • Vineyard area has doubled over the last 10 years.
  • Michigan's 117 commercial wineries produce more than 1.4 million gallons of wine annually, making Michigan 13th in wine production. The vast majority of production is from Michigan-grown grapes.
Wineries are popular tourist destinations, attracting more than 2 million visitors annually.
The wine industry contributes $300 million annually to Michigan's economy.
Three types of grapes are used for wine in Michigan:
  • Vinifera varieties - these are the classic European varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling (the most widely planted white), Pinot Noir (the most widely planted red), Pinot Grigio/Gris and Cabernet Franc; about 65% of Michigan's wine grapes are vinifera. Since 1997, 90% of the new plantings in Michigan have been vinifera varieties.
  • Hybrid varieties (sometimes called French/American hybrids) - these are botanical crosses between vinifera varieties and grapes native to North America. Typical names are Vidal, Chambourcin, Marechal Foch and Vignoles; about 35% of Michigan's wine grapes are hybrids.
  • Native varieties - actually close relatives of true native varieties. Typical names are Concord and Niagara. About 3% of Michigan's wine is made from these varieties.
Most of Michigan's quality wine grapes grow within 25 miles of Lake Michigan. Here, the "lake effect" protects the vines with snow in winter, retards bud break in spring helping avoid frost damage, and extends the growing season by up to four weeks.
Michigan has four federally approved viticultural areas (AVAs). In the northwest part of the state, near Traverse City, lie the Leelanau Peninsula and the Old Mission Peninsula. This area has a growing season averaging 145 days and an average heat accumulation of 2,350 growing degree days; 51% of Michigan's wine grapes grow here. In the southwest part of the state lie the Lake Michigan Shore and Fennville appellations, where 45% of Michigan's wine grapes are grown. This area has a growing season averaging 160 days and an average heat accumulation of 2,750 growing degree days. Both are Region 6 on the USDA plant hardiness zone map.
Harvest begins for early hybrid varieties at the end of August in the southwest and may extend into November for late-ripening vinifera varieties in the northwest.
Increasingly, Michigan wines are receiving high honors at national and international competitions. In addition, the Michigan Wine and Spirits Competition provides for head-to-head comparisons of the best of Michigan. Results are posted online following each year's competition.
Michigan wineries make many styles of wine, from dry to sweet including Ice Wine, sparkling, fortified, fruit wines and eau-de-vie (fruit brandy).
Michigan wines are typically "cool climate" - clean, crisp, balanced wines that exhibit real varietal character
- See more at: http://www.michiganwines.com/fast-facts#sthash.SgElcqLG.dpuf

Friday, August 7, 2015

Fogdog Sonoma Chardonnay 2010

Fogdog Sonoma Chardonnay 2010 - Lot 101 Columbia Valley Syrah for pleasant casual summer sipping

Dr's Pat and Carol-Ann came visiting so I opened this crisp casual sipping Chardonnay for the gals to enjoy with french bread, cheese and fruits. The term Fogdog  speaks to a ray of light poking through the fog - a not uncommon occurance in the mist shrouded vineyards near the coast in northwest Sonoma County.

As written in earlier blogposts, this is an interesting whimsical label from the legendary Joseph Phelps known for Bordeaux varietal wines from Napa Valley. Yet Phelps loved the wines of Burgundy and wanted to craft wines in that style. Originally he sourced Chardonnay from Napa Valley St. Helena, then Yountville and later from Carneros, down at the bottom of the Mayacamas Range (the range that separates yet helps form Napa and Sonoma Valleys) at the top of San Pablo Bay where Napa and Sonoma Valleys meet. Like the Sonoma Coast, Carneros is another locale notable for growing Burgundian varietals Chardonnay and Pinot Noir due to the milder climatic effects of the Bay with the fog that creeps into the low lying vineyards up against the hills.

Through the years, he continued searching for the ideal spot to grow both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. He found the perfect combination of climate, soil and location in Freestone, in the Sonoma Coast appellation AVA, just five miles from the Pacific Ocean. In 1999, Joseph Phelps Vineyards began developing 100 acres of vineyards just outside of Freestone.

In 2005, he built a new winery which was completed in time for the 2007 harvest. Today, 80 acres of Pinot Noir and 20 acres of Chardonnay produce remarkable estate-grown wines bearing the Joseph Phelps name.

The moniker 'fogdog' refers to 'a bright or clear spot that appears in the breaking fog'. Being just five miles from the coast, the fog rolls in from the ocean and graces the vineyards early in the day before being burned off by the late morning sun.

We've also enjoyed the Fogdog Pinot Noir on several occasions including during one of our New York/Hoboken getaways.

Winemaker Notes: This wine has a very expressive floral bouquet with notes of baking spices, wet stone and toasted vanilla bean. There is a hint of mid-palate sweetness that nicely buffers the core of acidity and complements the array of pear tart, white peach, green apple and lemongrass flavors. 
Sonoma Coast Chardonnay sourced from the Dutton Ranch Mill Station Vineyard (67%) and the Freestone estate vineyards (33%). 
The 2010 Chardonnay growing season was slow and cool, producing excellent fruit quality with uniform sugar and acid levels, despite the late season weather challenges, making for excellent natural winemaking conditions. The finished wines are balanced and fresh with a distinctly Freestone spice element.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1342737

http://www.josephphelps.com/visit-us-sonoma-coast/

Ninety Plus Cellars Lot 101 Syrah 2009

While the ladies sipped on Chardonnay, I opened a more hearty, fruit forward robust Syrah for enjoyable summer sipping. Like several earlier tastings against several Shiraz' or Syrahs, this has served as a tasting benchmark.  

I've written several times in these pages that this high QPR (quality-price-ratio) negociant label at less than half the price of some of the vineyard designated Napa Syrahs, may be one of our favorite drinking wines in our cellar right now.

Dark inky garnet colored, medium to full bodied, this full throttle Syrah reveals layers of blackberry and black currants fruits with tones of sweet vanilla, caramel and spice with hints of black pepper on a lingering smooth silky tannin finish.

RM 90 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=1742790

http://www.ninetypluscellars.com/wines/lot-101-collectors-series-syrah

Thursday, August 6, 2015

Silvercreek Urbana Wine Dine Experience

Silvercreek Urbana Wine Dine Experience

Traveling cross-state we stopped enroute in Champaign/Urbana for a fine dining experience at Silvercreek Restaurant. Their website speaks to their Silvercreek Restaurant 'modern American cuisine' - 'quality interpretations of classic dishes using only the freshest ingredients from local farmers, or right from our own garden'. Their on-line menu featured many enticing selections, so we planned our route accordingly and called for reservations.

The Silvercreek website has only a terse mention of 200 wines on offer but no details so we took a chance on committing to the experience. Readers of this blog know that wine is a major determinant of our dining experience so imagine our delight when we arrived, settled in and were presented with an award worthy extensive wine list. It offers a respectable selection by region, varietal and includes a nice selection of WBTG - wine-by-the-glass, as well as a couple half bottles. Several of our favorite and reliable standby wines were available such as Napa Valley staples Robert Craig, Caymus, Silver Oak, and Seavey. But there was also a selection of French and other regions represented as well. Prices were a bit steep at two times retail which we would consider big city or Chicago prices.

I ordered the roasted duck with balsamic cherry jam, wild mushroom risotto, baby kale and arugula salad, while Linda ordered the Crispy Potato-Crusted Michigan Whitefish with carrots, grilled asparagus, pancetta, wild mushrooms and citrus cream. The offer of half bottles provided the perfect opportunity to select a quality red wine pairing for my entree, while  Linda could get a well matched white pairing for her fish. While convenient and accommodating for casual sipping, WBTG seldom offer premium or more sophisticated selections for a wine-dine pairing.

When asked how things were by the server, I admonished him that the wine was too warm, and the food too cool. The wine was room temperature which detracts from the enjoyment and discrimination of fruits. The food was warm, not hot, which in retrospect on viewing the pictures may be due to the fact they combined cool salad on the same plate as the hot entree, a practice I would avoid for just this reason.

I then ordered the multi-layered chocolate desert - dark chocolate over chocolate mousse over chocolate cake. This also was a great accompaniment to the Chateauneuf-du-Pape we orderd.

While delicious and a great pairing, it wasn't as moist or fresh as it could be, and begged to be served with au-lait or coffee, which inexplicably and regretably always seems to be served as a follow on course!

Domaine de Beaurenard Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2010

As noted above, ordered from 375ml half bottle. I wrote the other day about the imperative of keeping Zinfandel in the cellar for the occasional pairing with BBQ. Another such collection note is to keep Chateauneuf-du-Pape (CDP) for game dishes such as duck, another natural perfect pairing. Duck and CDP are one of my favorite such pairings - the complexity and boldness and forward fruits of CDP with the bold forward flavors of duck and the bright expressive compote accompaniment.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape complexity comes from the fact that it is typically a blend of several grape varietals, as many as thirteen are sanctioned by the Appellation tenants, with bold fruit forward Syrah being one of the more predominant. This Chateauneuf cuvée represents classic terroir and representation from a strong vintage. This is a blend of Grenache (70%) and the rest of equal part Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.

Dark purple colored, medium full bodied, complex but nicely balanced dark berry and black cherry fruits predominate with a layer of a mix of tones of black olive tapenade, garrigue, tree bark, spice, floral, hints of leather, anise and pepper with nice balance and smooth approachable tannins on the slightly acidic finish. 

RM 89 points.

https://www.cellartracker.com/notes.asp?iWine=1225374

So what is garrigue? According to Dr Vinny of Wine Spectator - "Garrigue refers to the low-growing vegetation on the limestone hills of the Mediterranean coast, not the limestone itself. There are a bunch of bushy, fragrant plants that grow wild there, such as juniper, thyme, rosemary and lavender, and garrigue refers to the sum of them. Think herbes de Provence, or a mix of fresh minty-herbal notes with more pungent, floral fragrances." And of course Provence is the doorway to the Rhone River Valley of which Chateauneuf-du-Pape is the standard bearer premier wine region and style of the southern Rhone.

Linda's white fish was nicely prepared and tasty. We ordered the Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc by the glass which complemented nicely.

For desert Linda order the trio of creme-brulee - one of rigorous bold blueberry, one of pronounced orange peel, and one of chocolate. Had we known or internalized the ramekin portion size we would have shared. Regretably, the chocolate selection came with canned spray on creme rather than creme fraiche. Nevertheless they were tasty.

Overall, Silvercreek offered a trendy stylish building setting in the rustic historic building with open rafters, high ceilings, natural oak, and airy well lit window seating. The staff were students, who are still learning the trade and getting settled into the routine but were earnest, sincere and attentive. The overall food and wine experience was very pleasant and good quality, although if they're going to ask big city prices, they need to be slightly more attentive to the details. I suspect that as they get into the school season, they'll catch their stride. We look forward to visiting again.

http://www.couriersilvercreek.com/